Care and maintenance
Pelargonium rosebudnaya turned out in the process of random mutation and subsequently became the object of serious selection, which led to the emergence of very strong varieties that combine the hereditary characteristics of zonal, ampel and dwarf varieties.
Ground and flower pot requirement
Like all pelargoniums, this species prefers small pots, preferably ceramic and not covered with glaze. In such a pot, the soil dries out better and more oxygen enters the roots. The soil can be purchased from a specialty store or made by yourself. It should not be overly saturated with nutrients and contain ingredients such as sphagnum that can retain moisture. It is better to choose a ready-made soil designed specifically for pelargonium. When purchasing all-purpose potting mixes, you can add perlite and sand to increase looseness.
You can create a good soil yourself. It should include:
- peat soil - 2 parts;
- sod land - 4 parts;
- river sand - 1 part;
- perlite -1 part;
- leaf humus - 2 parts.
Watering
Watering should be moderate, because pelargoniums suffer most from overflow and stagnation of water. They tolerate a long drought easily due to their thick leaves capable of accumulating and retaining moisture.
Illumination
Representatives of pelargonium live well in bright sun and partial shade. Will grow well in the south, southwest and southeast window. In the garden, they can be placed on open rock gardens, hung on the balcony and veranda in flowerpots, planted under the crown in the partial shade of a tree. With a lack of light, the leaves become light, the stems stretch out and lose their foliage, flowering will come later or not at all.
Temperature and humidity
Despite the fact that the plant is native to southern Africa, it perfectly adapted to indoor and outdoor conditions in the summer. But do not expect that pelargonium will feel great in the heat. Temperatures above 28 degrees and bright sun will harm the plant, make it sluggish, and the flowering period will be halved. Delicate petals may fall ahead of time.
Pelargonium is one of the most undemanding plants to humidity in the room. It easily tolerates dry air, and in winter, in rare cases, dry leaf edges will indicate a lack of moisture. It is not recommended to spray the plant. Drops accumulate on the leaves covered with villi, which can lead to decay. The plant can be placed on a pallet with pebbles and water. The second way to humidify the air is to put it in a larger planter, laying wet moss between the walls.
Fertilizers
Starting from the end of February, the flower is ready to wake up and leave the dormant period. At this time, he needs fertilizers containing nitrogen. They will help form a lush green mass, a branchy stem and a luscious green color. With the third or fourth feeding, the fertilizer should contain more potassium and phosphorus. These minerals help produce abundant and long lasting blooms.
Bush formation
Pruning of rosebud pelargonium is carried out twice a year. Autumn formation is the strongest. Old bare shoots are cut off, strongly elongated ones are shortened by 2/3 or 1/3. In the spring, before the start of active growth, the pelargonium is pinched very carefully. Spring pruning is strong, may delay flowering or rob this year of flowers.
Pelargonium rosebud: description
A perennial, light-loving plant that brings aesthetic pleasure to gardeners is pelargonium.Just like geranium, it has a well-developed root system, which is why it was included in the Geraniev family. The herbaceous stem is stiff and lignified in the lower part of mature plants. Differs in lobed leaves, cutouts on which occupy no more than 1/3 of the half-width. Fruiting is boll-shaped.
3 methods of propagation are used: dividing bushes, planting seeds or cuttings. Since the birthplace of culture is South Africa, it is very thermophilic. She needs abundant, but rare soil moisture.
Pelargonium rosebud
For the first time in Europe, the plant was brought back in the 17th century. Already in the 18th century, they began to propagate and grow it as a separate floral species.
It is believed that pelargonium appeared as a result of random cell mutation. Over time, scientists have developed a flower that resembles a modern plant, crossing different types of flowers. The rosebud pelargonium was officially introduced as a floral species in 1870.
Rosebudna belongs to the varieties of terry zonal pelargonium. Outwardly, the flower bud looks like a half-blossoming rose. Rosebud is often confused with bush roses. The second name of the flower is rosaceous pelargonium. The only difference between these crops is in the shape of the leaves. Inflorescences are represented by small spherical buds.
Spherical buds
How to care for Milfield Rose pelargonium at home
To succeed in growing a plant, it needs to be provided with complete and high-quality care.
Illumination and temperature conditions
For the culture, you need to choose the optimal temperature regime. It should be at +20 .. + 27 degrees.
In order for buds to form on the bushes and double inflorescences to appear, the plant needs sufficient daylight hours. It should be at least 14 hours. Sometimes there is a need to use phytolamps. Thanks to this, it is possible to achieve winter flowering of the culture.
With the arrival of heat, the plant can be planted in open soil. For him, you need to choose a well-lit place. It is also permissible to take out the bushes to the balcony or terrace. In this case, you need to ensure that there is partial shade over the plant and the bushes do not get burned.
Watering rules and humidity
Pelargonium needs to be watered abundantly, but it is not recommended to overmoisten the soil. Overdrying of a lump of soil is also undesirable. In this case, there is a risk of falling off the leaves of the crop, which reduces its decorative properties. Excess moisture provokes rotting of the roots - in such a situation, it will not be possible to save the culture.
Water the soil as it dries. In the winter season, the frequency of soil moisture is significantly reduced, because pelargonium is resting.
Important! For watering pelargonium, soft, settled water at room temperature is suitable. The use of cold liquid provokes rotting of the root system.
Spraying the crop is not recommended. In this case, the leaves must be systematically cleaned of dust. A barely damp cloth is suitable for this manipulation. Dry the flower in the sun immediately after the procedure.
For lush, abundant flowering, the culture requires sufficient illumination.
Top dressing and soil quality
In order for the plant to delight with lush flowering as long as possible, the bush needs additional nutrition. Top dressing should be used very carefully. An excess of fertilizer will lead to undesirable consequences.
- In the spring, it is recommended to fertilize this representative of geraniums with nitrogen agents. Thanks to such preparations, it is possible to achieve an increase in green mass.
- Before starting the formation of buds, nitrogen-containing agents are canceled. During this period, the bushes need to use potassium and phosphorus. Thanks to such substances, beautiful inflorescences are formed.
For feeding pelargonium, you can use combined mineral products that are sold in stores - they have a balanced composition.
Flower container size
A medium-sized pot is suitable for pelargonium. Too spacious capacity leads to active growth of the bush. At the same time, flowering can be very poor.
As the culture develops, a large capacity is selected and the Milfield Rose pelargonium is transplanted.
Pelargonium pruning
To get a beautiful compact plant, it needs to be pruned sometimes. The procedure promotes abundant flowering and rejuvenation of the culture. Shoot development should be monitored throughout the growing season. With the onset of autumn, rejuvenating pruning is performed. In this case, you need to remove old and diseased branches.
It is interesting! There is another very similar plant variety - Millfield gem. But this culture is characterized by completely double inflorescences.
Diseases and pests
The best way is to prevent disease and pest attacks. And this requires timely detection and prevention. Any problem already at the very beginning has external manifestations:
- Are the leaves withering? This may indicate that the room is too warm or the plant is close to the radiator. It may be necessary to increase watering and increase air humidity.
- If the leaves have changed color, this may serve as a signal that the flower is watered too abundantly or there is not enough light for it. Or both.
- Are there brown spots on the leaves? This is a viral infection. Transplant the flower to a different soil. You should also treat the plant with fungicides. Be sure to check for parasites. And regardless of the results, you need to spray the flower with an aspirin solution (1.25 per 10 liters of water).
- Flowers began to dry out? Perhaps it's a fungus. Pelargonium should be treated with Bordeaux mixture 5% or phytosporin.
- If a whitefly or aphid attacked, treat the plant with phytoverim. And at the same time, process all the plants that are nearby.
- Gray rot is a formidable enemy of pelargonium. Typical features are brown spots on the lower leaves. They spread quickly, and if nothing is done, the plant can die. The treatment is carried out in a comprehensive manner. Pelargonium should be treated with a fungicide, exclude nitrogen-containing fertilizers, reduce watering and spraying, and monitor the looseness of the soil. There should also be enough light in the room.
- If the plant withers, fungus may be the cause. Typical signs are yellowing and wilting of the lower leaves. Then the yellowness spreads to the rest of the leaves. If this happens, pelargonium must be treated with trichodermin. In this case, you should change the soil. Since some types of parasitic fungi persist in the soil for up to 15 years.
When treating a whitefly plant, be sure to spray the leaves both above and below. This is a necessary and condition! Since this parasite settles precisely on the lower side of the leaf.
Pelargoniums are of different types. Read about royal, pink, variegated, tulip.
Protection from pests and diseases
If the leaves begin to wither, turn yellow and dry faster, you should try to increase the amount of watering. It is also worth removing pelargonium from the battery, it may be uncomfortable in too dry air.
If the lower leaves turn yellow, then there is not enough light for the flower.
If the leaves lose color and the whole flower withers, this means the root system has been poured.
If the flowers dry quickly, there may be a fungus. For treatment, you need to pour a 5% Bordeaux mixture. You also need to treat the plant with Fitosporin.
If the flower has a bacterial disease, it will show brown spots. For treatment, you need to transplant pelargonium into another soil, water only in the morning and apply fungicides.
If a plant develops a fungus, rust on the leaves, white fluff and gray spots may appear. To eliminate it, you need to use special antifungal agents. The soil will need to be sieved, loosened. Nitrogen fertilizers cannot be used.
The decaying place from the plant should be carefully torn off.
Photos of blooming rosebud pelargoniums will be able to convey all their beauty, but a living flower is a real fabulous miracle that will decorate a house or garden.
How to take care of it properly?
Lighting
As mentioned above, Lady Gertrude loves diffused sunlight, which must be provided to her for 4 to 8 hours a day. In winter, you can additionally use fluorescent lamps for continuous growth.
Temperature
In the warm season, it is preferable to keep the plant at a temperature of 20 to 25 degrees, and in the cold season 12-15 degrees is allowed. Temperature thresholds, which in no case should be crossed: in winter up to 10 degrees, in summer up to 30. At such temperatures, the active growth and flowering of Pelargonium stops.
Watering
Pelargonium Lady Gertrude loves moderate watering, in which neither drying out nor overmoistening of the substrate occurs. The latter is fraught with very rapid decay of the roots, and since the plant is especially sensitive to excess moisture, this will be followed by the rapid death of all Pelargonium.
In the warm season (summer - spring), watering should be frequent and slightly plentiful, and in the cold (autumn - winter) it should be done less often and with less water, which in both cases should be settled, at room temperature.
Important! When watering a plant with cool water, the likelihood of rotting its roots increases significantly.
Fertilizer
In summer and spring (during the growing season), the plant especially needs feeding, which is done once every 2 weeks. For this, mineral complexes with a potassium-phosphorus composition are ideal.
Nitrogen in fertilizers negatively affects the state of Pelargonium! In winter, the plant is not fed at all.
Rest period (wintering)
In the cold season (mainly winter), Pelargonium, like most other plants, has a dormant period when it rests and gains strength for further flowering in summer and spring. In winter and autumn, the plant needs to be watered less often, not fed at all and kept at a temperature of 12-15 degrees.
If during this period all the necessary conditions are met, then in the summer Pelargonium Lady Gertrude will certainly delight with her lush beautiful flowers.
Pelargonium Millfield Rose (Milfield Rose) - what is this hybrid variety
Pelargonium Milfield Rose belongs to the Geraniev family. Its main difference is the unusual inflorescences that look like small roses. By the way, the shade of the petals is also soft pink, which is very popular with the owners.
Pelargoria has beautiful delicate inflorescences
Terry inflorescences are characteristic of Pelargonium Millfield Rose. Many consider these plants to be the real first ladies among flowers, and admit that even a rose is not so beautiful.
Brief description, history of origin or selection, what it looks like
Pelargonium Milfield Rose combines the characteristics of a zoned and ivy crop. These features were reflected in the decorative properties of the culture.
- The color and shape of the leaves indicate that it belongs to the zonal varieties.
- At the same time, the development and shape of the shoots are more reminiscent of ivy-leaved crops.
The plant has large and voluminous inflorescences. They give the flower decorative properties. The severity of the flowers creates the need for a garter and timely pruning. Otherwise, the culture is transformed into an ampelous plant. Moreover, its flowering will be less abundant and lush.
In the description of Pelargonium Millfield Rose, it is said that the bushes have large and bright leaves. They look pretty and decorative enough.
In saturated light, a brown strip can be seen on the leaves, which confirms that the variety belongs to the zonal varieties.
For reference! In Russia, lovers of indoor flowers read the name differently: some call Milfred rose pelargonium, others Milfield rose. Some even consider it to be a different species, calling the geranium Milfield rose.
Description and photos of varieties
Rose of Amsterdam
Rose of Amsterdam is a miniature variety.It has very beautiful white double inflorescences. In the sun, they can turn pink. Interestingly, the age of the flower can affect the shade. Older flowers are brighter in color. The flowers are usually bicolor, the white color gradually turns into pink.
Best placed on the east side. There should be enough light, but direct sunlight is not allowed. Growing pretty fast. Does not tolerate cold and drafts. The minimum air temperature in winter should not fall below +15 degrees.
Suprem
Rosebud Supreme blooms with deep crimson, double flowers forming a dense head. A characteristic feature is the white underside of the flower. It looks very unusual. The bush is upright, durable. The inflorescence cap is very dense and the plant blooms for a long time. And if you try, it will bloom all year round.
ATTENTION: Requires molding. In summer, it is allowed to take it out into the fresh air
But this should be done with caution. Prefers moderate watering
In hot sunny weather, the pots should be shaded to prevent overheating of the soil.
Apple blossom
«Apple blossom rosebud"- one of the oldest varieties. They have a delicate green-white color. In this case, the edges of the flower are bright pink. They look pretty unusual. This variety requires feeding, and often. And he also needs molding. Moderate watering
If you follow the precautionary rules, you can take it out into the open air. Shade in hot weather
Vectis
"Vectis Rosebud" belongs to the miniature zone varieties. The flowers are large, wine-red. The type of inflorescences is slightly disheveled, unlike most rosebuds. Differs in long flowering. The petals have a light underside. The leaves of this variety are dark green in color.
Pink
Swanland Pink-Australien Pink Rosebud has a very dense head of inflorescences. The flowers are pale pink, do not lose their shape throughout the flowering. The flowering is profuse and long lasting. Due to the large inflorescences, it seems that they lie on the leaves. This is the distinguishing feature of this variety. It has large leaves and short internodes. The bush itself is well formed, loves small pots.
Red
Rosebud Red has beautiful double red flowers. It blooms for a long time and abundantly. The inflorescence cap is dense, dense, lush. The bush requires virtually no molding. Does not tolerate low temperatures, but heat is also harmful to her.
Optimum temperature:
- In summer, no more than +25 degrees.
- In winter, +15 - +20 degrees.
TIP: Doesn't like rain or wind. Therefore, it is better to refrain from transplanting it into the ground and from taking it out into the street. It is better to place the flower in a medium-lit room.
Propagation by cuttings
Rosebud can be propagated by seeds, but this is problematic. The best option is grafting. Suitable period for this:
- mid-spring;
- end of summer;
- beginning of autumn.
That is, the time when the rosebud is not in "hibernation" and does not bloom. Another condition is not to overfeed. If you are planning on grafting, do not overfeed the plant. Soil preparation should be taken seriously, as it depends on whether the plant will take root. The composition should include:
- peat;
- river sand;
- Earth.
In this case, the soil should be moderately moist. The shank should be:
- strong;
- healthy;
- flaccid (to avoid decay);
- the length must be more than 5 cm.
The shoot should be carefully cut with a sharp, sterile instrument. Then it is advisable to dry the cutting. After all the preparations, the cutting is placed in the soil. The soil near the stem is compacted. All this is placed in a plastic or peat cup.
Watering should be along the edge of the glass. Water temperature - about +20 degrees
It is important not to flood the young plant! The optimum air temperature should also be about +20 degrees. If young leaves appear, then this is a sign that the plant has taken root.
If you are cutting the plant in early spring, be sure to use additional lighting. Fluorescent lamps are suitable for this.
Classification of rosebuds by groups
The main feature is the inflorescences that resemble a rose. But there are a few more differences that distinguish rosebud from all other types of pelargonium. Within a species, groups are distinguished:
- Ampelnaya has a creeping stem.
- Zonal (the most hardy species).
- Dwarf or miniature pelargonium.
And in each of the groups, there are many varieties. They differ:
- by color scheme;
- by the shape of the buds;
- features of care.
Ampelny (ivy)
The main feature is a cascade of leaves. The stem of such a plant does not aspire to the top, but spreads. Ivy pelargonium hangs down. And if it also belongs to the species of rosebuds, then such a plant looks incredibly beautiful.
Zonal
The most hardy. It can reach up to 80 cm in height. It has dark fluffy leaves with a transition to a lighter color. Zonal is the most common variety. It is better not to plant such a plant in the ground. Since, despite the relative endurance, the zonal rosebuds are still capricious.
Watch a video about the features of the zonal rosebud pelargonium:
Dwarf
Dwarf rosebuds are distinguished by their compactness. They do not require molding and are easy to grow in confined spaces. Looks very nice in small pots. As a rule, they bloom profusely, forming a short but lush bush. They are relatively easy to care for.
Care for rosebud pelargonium
This species requires a special attitude towards itself. She does not like sunlight as well as excessive watering. From the scorching sunlight, the leaves of the plant become faded, blooms less, and the bush itself looks depressed. However, if you grow rosebuds outdoors, then the sun's rays are not afraid of them.
And moderate watering is needed - the soil should not dry out, but the swamp should not be done, from which the root system can rot. Before watering, touch the soil in the pot with your finger: if there is soil on your finger, then watering should be postponed, if the soil is dry, pour soft water at room temperature. Rosebuds can grow not only in the house, but also on the balcony or in the garden. But it must be borne in mind that all varieties of this subgroup are sensitive to prolonged low temperatures. The best temperature for them is not lower than +10 degrees. In the spring, when the length of the day increases and the pelargoniums begin to grow actively, they are transplanted into new soil. The soil must be nutritious, but at the same time breathable. Make a mixture of turf, peat, coarse sand, perlite and humus in a ratio of 4: 2: 1: 1: 2, or use a ready-made store-bought soil with neutral acidity (pH 5.5-6.5). Within a few days after transplantation, pelargonium will need to be watered very carefully, not to allow waterlogging. When a new growth appears on the stem, be sure that the plant has taken root. Next is the correct pruning. Strongly overgrown plants must be cut off, geranium is sheared to form a bush. Cutting plants into a stump is dangerous, but if the plant has young growth at the root, then you can also into a stump. If there is no young growth, but there is winter lighting (usually fluorescent lamps on the shelves or somewhere else, not even on the windowsill, then you can safely cut them into a stump .. If there is no lighting, just a light window sill, then cut the trunks like this so that the bush looks neat, there may be single growing buds on the trunk, and so up to these buds. I usually cut off leaving the trunks 5-10 cm and into the light, certainly in the light (not in the sun). After pruning, you need to be very careful with watering The plant has no leaves, and if you water it heavily, the roots will begin to "pump" this water, but there is nothing to evaporate it - the plant suffocates and dies. This is the main mistake when pruning. what.
In the process of growth, the rosette must be periodically fed with complex fertilizers.In the period before flowering and during flowering, fertilizers with a phosphorus-potassium formula should be used.
Water requirements - nothing special, ordinary water, but it must be warmed up to room temperature. The myth that pelargonium leaves are afraid of water is not justified. It is not water that spoils the leaf, but the settled dust, which must be removed in time. In addition, after bathing, the leaves can be blotted with a well-absorbed napkin. Pure leaves are the key to the beauty and vitality of pelargonium.
In winter, rosebud pelargoniums do not look very beautiful - the stem is bare, the leaves turn yellow, and there is no bloom at all. Therefore, it is better to keep them in a "sleeping" form - the temperature is not higher than +15 degrees, rare watering and no fertilizers.
Features of flowering plants
Geranium looks unattractive without its luxurious inflorescences. You can achieve abundant flowering from it by providing suitable conditions.
Typically, the flowering time of pelargonium falls in the spring-summer. With the onset of the autumn-winter period, only the plant for which the optimal lighting regime has been created will bloom. When kept in the south or west window, the inflorescences may not leave the bush throughout the summer. But it is worth considering that without proper rest, they will gradually become smaller, become less lush and bright.
In appearance, the inflorescences and the flowers of rosebud geranium themselves may differ depending on which varieties and species were used in the breeding of this particular plant. The buds of some hybrids are very dense and resemble roses as much as possible, like in the red rosebud pelargonium. In other varieties, the buds may be more disheveled and loose.
