Vegetative breeding methods for orchids
How to propagate an orchid at home with children - stem cuttings
Some types of orchids, in conditions of high indoor temperatures and an excess of nitrogen in the substrate, form side shoots, or babies. Such orchids, for example, include phalaenopsis and dendrobiums. As soon as you notice the appearance of children, try to spray them as often as possible so that they grow faster, and when they have roots, separate the children from the orchid with a sharp sterile instrument, treat the wounds with crushed coal and plant them in separate pots.
How to propagate an orchid by cuttings
Some types of orchids - dendrobium, phalaenopsis, wanda and epidendrum - can be propagated by side shoots, or cuttings. They are cut off, laid flat on a substrate consisting of equal parts of sphagnum and river sand, and placed in a heated greenhouse. As soon as the cuttings grow roots, they are planted in a pot.
Reproduction of an orchid by a peduncle
Thus, faded arrows can also be used: the upper part of the peduncle 10-15 cm long is cut off, divided into segments with 1-2 nodes, laid flat on wet moss, placed in a greenhouse, and after a month, sprouts appear from dormant buds. It should be remembered that the lower the bud is located on the peduncle, the stronger it is.
How the orchid blooms
Monopodial orchids, in particular Vanda, are propagated by cutting off the upper half of a faded peduncle with several aerial roots and planting it into a substrate after processing the cut with charcoal powder. Contain the planted stalk like an adult plant. And from the rest of the peduncle, without removing it from the substrate, remove several lower leaves, spray the arrow with bare sleeping buds with a solution of 750 mg of Kinetin in 1 liter of water and place the orchid in conditions of high humidity. Within 5-10 days, you need to once again process the remainder of the peduncle with Kinetin's solution, and after a while several lateral shoots will develop from its adventitious buds. You need to wait until their roots grow, after which the shoots are separated from the orchid, planted in separate pots, and soon their roots will be fixed in the substrate.
Orchid propagation by pseudobulbs
In this way, only those orchid species can be propagated that form pseudobulbs from the thickened internodes of the stem. This type of cuttings allows you to get several plants during the year. Ripe two- or three-year-old pseudobulbs are used as cuttings, which are cut from the plant and divided into parts, each of which should have a node with a well-developed bud. The sections are treated with charcoal powder, the cuttings are dried for a couple of days, then placed in a plastic bag with live wet sphagnum and kept at a temperature of 20-22 ˚C under bright diffused light, from time to time opening the bag for ventilation. After a month or two, under such conditions, small plants are formed from dormant buds, which can be planted in pots.
Orchid propagation by division
The easiest way to reproduce orchids is to divide the plant into parts. This method is suitable for large sympodial plants - cattleyas, pafiopedilums, cymbidiums, shoe orchids
The orchid is taken out of the pot, its roots are carefully cleaned from the substrate, the rhizome is divided into parts with a sharp sterile tool, each of which must contain at least two or three pseudobulbs, the sections are treated with coal powder and each fragment is planted in a separate pot. After dividing and planting, watering the plants should be moderate to sparse, but the ground part should be sprayed daily with cool water until new shoots or leaves appear, which will indicate that the delenki have taken root.
With good maintenance, young orchids can bloom already this year.
How to propagate an orchid
The plant is divided after rest or during a forced transplant.In species such as oncidium and cymbidium, you can separate the old pseudobulb, put it in a separate pot on the surface of a moist substrate for orchids or sphagnum and keep it in conditions of high humidity and at a temperature of 20-22 ˚C. After a while, young plants with their roots will develop from the buds located at the base of the bulb
They must be carefully separated and dropped separately.
Features of phalaenopsis transplant. Transfer after purchase
A newly purchased plant, especially if the purchase was not in a specialty store, it is advisable to transplant it into a slightly larger pot with a new correct substrate.
Yes, and with a store copy, you should not postpone the transplant for a long time, because in greenhouses and stores phalaenopsis, as a rule, no one transplants, and they are sold in the same pot, and with the same soil into which the plants were transplanted immediately after "birth", that is after sprouting of roots during reproduction. For more information on how to propagate an orchid by roots, read our article.
Surely at the time of purchase, the pot became too small, and the substrate needs updating.
Blooming phalaenopsis is most often acquired, because this tropical guest is famous precisely for its unusually beautiful inflorescences. It is advisable to transplant the purchased plant into a new container after waiting for it to bloom or within the first year.
But at the same time, transplanting with the destruction of the earthen coma (substrate) is always a great stress for the orchid, since the densely overgrown root hairs that envelop the substrate, which provide nutrition to the plant, are damaged.
Therefore, if the plant feels great and develops in its usual environment, but there is a need to move it to a larger pot, it is better to transfer it, preserving the integrity of the earthen coma.
When transshipment, phalaenopsis is planted at the same level as before, filling the free space in the container with a new substrate.
The most suitable time for transplanting an orchid is spring, since during this period active growth of the plant, its leaves and root system begins.
The further growth and development of phalaenopsis depends on the correct transplantation time, because in the period at the beginning of growth, it is easier for the flower to adapt to new conditions and strengthen in the substrate, which means that the transplant will be less painful for the plant.
It is undesirable to transplant the plant during the flowering period, as there is a threat that the plant will drop flowers. Such a transplant is possible only when an urgent resuscitation of the orchid is needed. But it is better to transplant phalaenopsis after flowering.
Brief description of cultivation
- Bloom. Its duration is from 2 to 3 months.
- Illumination. Needs a lot of bright light, which must be diffused, do not let the direct rays of the sun hit the bush. The duration of daylight hours should be at least 12 hours.
- Temperature conditions. During active growth in the daytime - from 20 to 25 degrees, and at night - from 16 to 21 degrees. Types of cool content in the spring-summer period require temperatures from 15 to 18 degrees during the day, and about 12 degrees at night. In winter, the air temperature in the daytime should be about 12 degrees, and at night - about 8 degrees. The nighttime temperature should differ from the daytime by 5-7 degrees.
- Watering. In the spring-summer period, it is necessary to moisten the substrate in the pot abundantly, and during the dormant period, watering should be scarce.
- Air humidity. Required high humidity (50 to 80 percent). Therefore, the bush must often be moistened with lukewarm water from a sprayer. In winter, the container with a flower is best placed on a tray filled with damp rubble.
- Fertilizer.During the growing season (in April – September), the flower is fed once every 15 days with a solution of complex mineral fertilizer for orchids.
- Rest period. It comes after the bush has faded, while the timing depends on the type of dendrobium.
- Transfer. Systematically every 3 or 4 years. Autumn-flowering species are transplanted immediately after the emergence of young shoots, and spring-flowering ones - when flowering ends.
- Reproduction. Cuttings or dividing the bush.
- Harmful insects. Spider mites, thrips, scale insects, mealybugs and whiteflies.
- Diseases. Root rot, leaf blight, powdery mildew and brown rot.
How to care for the Dendrobium Nobile orchid. Light, watering and fertilizing for the orchid.
Vegetative propagation
Speaking about the care and reproduction of an orchid, it should also be noted that this crop can be grown vegetatively. This method is suitable for any variety of a given crop. To do this, the roots of the plant must simply be divided into several parts, which must necessarily have pseudobulbs. This method is suitable for breeding large specimens only.
First of all, the flower must be removed from the pot, the roots must be carefully separated from the earthen coma. Cut the rhizomes into several equal parts, on which there should be several bulbs. Places of cuts must be sprinkled with charcoal or crushed activated carbon. Each piece is planted separately. New specimens are lightly watered. They are also sprayed daily until the plants form new shoots and leaves. This is proof that the flower has taken root.
Diseases and pests - symptoms and how to treat?
There are three groups of diseases:
- Fungal. The most common and occur with waterlogging. Among them, it is worth noting root rot, which can lead to the death of an indoor orchid. Tracheomycosis leads to blockage of blood vessels, the spread of toxins, it is difficult to get rid of it. Various diseases can manifest themselves with a variety of spotty rashes, the presence of cobwebs. Some of them are treated with special remedies that can be purchased at garden stores.
- Bacterial. They occur rarely, penetrate through damaged areas, if the orchid is weakened. It appears as black spots, with an oily halo.
- Viral. Flowers practically do not get sick with such diseases. And all possible symptoms are usually signs of waterlogging.
Pests on home orchids:
- Shield. It is found as yellow and brown bumps - these are insects. The orchid is removed from the pot, the substrate is changed, washed, removing all growths. The procedure is repeated within a month.
- Scratch. It looks like a white, fluffy lump, spreads very quickly. Usually settles in old leaves. It needs to be cut off. But it is more dangerous that after it there are small wounds where the fungus settles.
- Whitefly. It looks like a tiny butterfly, it starts on thin and weakened leaves. It is removed by washing with a sponge and laundry soap. After that, it is worth rinsing the deciduous part with running water for another month.
Caring for orchids is difficult enough, but the result justifies the means. They are able to delight for a long time with beautiful flowers and a pleasant aroma, but they are suitable for everyone
But choosing home plants for yourself is not as difficult as it seems, you just need to pay attention to this issue.
Growing recommendations
Seat selection
When choosing a place for an orchid, preference should be given to bright and well-ventilated areas. But airing should not turn into drafts. Exactly the same as lighting should not turn into firing. In hot hours it is better to hide Multiflora from the sun. To do this, you just need to curtain the windows at this time.
Important: You should also beware of areas of premises near heating devices, as they dry the air and soil very much.
Preparing the soil and pot
It is better to purchase the soil ready-made in specialized stores. It should be designed specifically for Orchids.
To prepare the substrate at home, you need to take pine bark, charcoal and sphagnum moss in equal proportions and mix it all. Don't forget about the drainage layer. This will provide good air circulation in the flowerpot.
As for the pot, firstly it should be transparent, and secondly smooth. Transparency is necessary for light to penetrate the roots, which take part in photosynthesis along with the leaves. And the pot should be smooth in order to prevent the ingrowth of roots into the walls of the container.
Temperature
Multiflora belongs to heat-loving plants. Therefore, in the room you need to maintain the temperature at 23-26 degrees Celsius during the day. At night, the air can become cooler - about 18 degrees
But it is important to ensure that the temperature does not fall below this mark.
Humidity
Proper care of Multiflora is to maintain the humidity level within 50-70%. On cloudy and rainy days, it is imperative to ventilate the room to avoid moisture stagnation.
And on hot days, on the contrary, humidify both the air around and the orchid itself as often as possible. This can be done with a simple spraying, and also by placing a container of water near the flowerpot.
Lighting
We have already said that all phalaenopsis need to be provided with a lot of light. In winter, additional lighting will also be needed to increase the daylight hours to 12 hours.
Watering
This can be done in two ways: under the shower and immersion. In the first case, not only the soil will be moistened, but the entire surface of the plant. In addition, it is an excellent hygienic procedure - all accumulated dust is washed off during the shower.
You need to immerse the flower in water for 30-40 minutes. Try not to overexpose the specified time.
Tip: To understand that it's time to water Multiflora, you need to carefully monitor the substrate. As soon as it is completely dry, you need to wait a couple more days and only then re-moisten the soil.
Top dressing
Fertilizing the orchid is recommended along with watering. So the nutrients are properly distributed and reach all parts of the plant.
It is best to purchase ready-made complexes for such flowers.
It is important that everything in fertilizers is balanced. Especially nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus
We recommend watching a video about the correct feeding of orchids:
Transfer
This procedure should be carried out every 2 years. The pots should not be much larger than the root system. It is better to purchase a ready-made substrate. Don't forget about drainage. The rhizomes should feel free in the flowerpot, so do not tamp the soil too much.
Experienced flower growers recommend replanting the orchid without removing it from the old soil. It is enough just to change the pot to a larger one.
Increasingly, flower growers are choosing phalaenopsis for home breeding. Among the most popular varieties are the delicate Liodoro, the elegant beauty Big Lip, the fragrant Wild Cat flower and the lovely sub-variety Mix.
How to care?
Humidity
For phalaenopsis, humidity of 50-80% is considered ideal. A humidity of 25-85% is possible, but then the development of diseases, especially fungal ones, cannot be ruled out.
Temperature
For flower reproduction, a temperature of 28-30 degrees is perfect.
Above the norm, indicators can rise, but below they do not.
The soil
You can prepare the nutrient substrate yourself using small pieces of pine bark - 0.5-1 cm, and also take the same amount of soil from the mother pot.
Watering
Phalaenopsis should be watered regularly, avoiding the presence of standing water and drying out. To moisten the soil, use settled and warm water. Pour it strictly at the root.
Care and cultivation of orchids of the catasetum group
Orchievods with experience in growing carrots argue that caring for them is not much different from the same phalaenopsis.
Planting carrots
Catasetum can be grown in both plastic pots and ceramic
In a transparent container, you can better see the condition of the roots and especially their length, which is important for determining the start of watering after a dormant period. Often they are kept in hanging baskets or pots.
If the carrots were resting in a box, with the appearance of buds at the base of the pseudobulbs, they are fixed vertically above the pot so that new roots penetrate into the substrate and contribute to the stable position of the plant.
The mixture for growing catasetum is simple in its composition. Usually pine bark is used, preferably pine, and sphagnum moss in equal quantities, and expanded clay is used as drainage. American orchivods also offer such substrate components: coconut chips - 3 parts and perlite of medium fractions - 1 part. It is advisable to plant small carrots in a pot filled with 2/3 New Zealand sphagnum, and 1/3 filled with expanded polystyrene granules.
Accommodation in the house, lighting and temperature of the content
Catasetums love a lot of light, so they are placed near large windows of east or south orientation, shading from the scorching sun. Good air ventilation is extremely important; in summer, carrots are taken out into the fresh air, but protected from the sun and precipitation.
Temperature preferences of carrots depend on the species, mostly high - within 28-30 degrees in summer with a decrease to 21-24 degrees at night. In winter, during rest, the temperature should not fall below 18-20 degrees.
Watering and humidity
Moistening of carrots begins with the end of the rest period after the roots have reached a certain length. Only lower watering is allowed, you cannot pour water under the base of the pseudobulb - its bottom is extremely vulnerable to rot. Water should not get into the new growth, therefore, the required optimal air humidity of 70% is maintained by special devices or by placing vessels with water next to the orchid, but not by spraying.
The frequency of watering, depending on the microclimate, varies from 2 to 3 times a week. It is advisable to moisten by immersion, but not the entire pot, but about half or not more than 2/3 of its height.
Top dressing
Fertilization of carrots begins with the resumption of watering. Mineral dressings for orchids are used, they are added to warm water prepared for immersion, alternated with clean water. Orchids also respond well to organics during active vegetation, when they form a new pseudobulb.
Reproduction of carrots
Plants of the catasetum group are propagated by dividing the rhizome. It is carried out with a sterile instrument until new growth and new roots appear. Unlike other orchids, carrots develop well in the presence of two pseudobulbs, so plants containing 4–5 of them must be separated. If this is not done in time, the plant will draw out all the reserves from the old pseudobulb, and it will die out, and growth buds wake up in the separated parts, and their roots replenish the necessary reserves of nutrients.
Diseases and pests
The most dangerous for carrots is waterlogging of any part of the plant, fraught with the formation of putrefactive spots, the base of the pseudobulb is especially sensitive to overflow.
Regarding insects, catasetum often suffer from the invasion of spider mites and flat beetles. The first ones outwardly look yellowish or reddish-brown, and their larvae are greenish-yellow or reddish. The latter are distinguished by flat and separated by transverse seams, brick-red bodies with a mesh pattern, and the larvae are bright red. Experienced orchievods advise novice carrot owners:
- inspect the lower part of the leaves weekly, where a silver spider web usually appears;
- effective insect protection - a regular flea collar for cats, which is cut into pieces and fixed directly on the pseudobulb;
- extensively affected areas are treated with less toxic acaricides for apartment conditions - phytoverm, actofit, vermitic and others.
Photos from the Internet
