Ophiopogon Japanese and flat-shooting planting and care in the open field and at home

Botanical description

It is an evergreen ornamental perennial plant characterized by variegated leaves and bright fruits. Rod - Euonymus. Family - Euonymus. In nature, there are representatives up to 7-8 m in height.In a garden, due to regular pruning, small shrub varieties are grown within 1-1.5 m, and a formed spherical tree on a trunk stretches up to 3-4 m. Distributed as an indoor ornamental plant ... It has 2 growth periods - in spring and autumn. At the end of each of them, large buds are formed on the tops of fresh shoots. The annual growth is about 20 cm.

The second name is pseudolavr (similar to laurel with its glossy elongated leaves). In Latin it sounds like Euonymus japonicus (Eonimus Japonicus).

Leaves:

• leathery, fleshy, dense, smooth, glossy;
• short petioles;
• jagged edges;
• elongated oval shape;
• in length - 3-8 cm.

Flowers:

• small (diameter - 1 cm);
• light green with a yellowish tinge, lost against the background of bright foliage;
• inflorescences - an umbrella in which about 100 flowers can be collected;
• flowering period - July.

Fruit:

• unusual in appearance, shape, color, which gives additional decorative properties to the shrub;
• orange-pinkish with white bulging pads, on which black seeds are visible (diameter - 0.8 cm);
• spherical;
• ripen in September, remain on the branches until the end of October.

Under natural conditions, it grows in the Far East, Japan, China, Korea. As an ornamental shrub, it was introduced to Europe in the 19th century and has since been actively used in home floriculture and landscape design.

Attention! Many are interested in whether Japanese euonymus is poisonous or not. Yes, all parts and even juice contain toxins that are dangerous to the human body if swallowed

Therefore, there are fruits and it is strictly forbidden to work with it without gloves (especially when pruning).

Amorphophallus care at home

Temperature regime

In the warm season, the usual room temperature suits him. During the rest period, coolness is needed (from 10 to 13 degrees).

How to water

During the period of intensive growth, watering should be abundant. At the same time, do not allow water to end up on the tuber during watering. When the leaves die off, watering should be reduced.

Top dressing

When fresh seedlings begin to grow, you need to fertilize 2 times a month, using mineral and organic fertilizers (alternately). You also need to remember that such a plant simply needs a large amount of phosphorus. In order for the tuber to gain mass in a relatively short time, systematic feeding will be required, while the fertilizer should consist of phosphorus, nitrogen and potassium, which must be taken in a ratio of 3: 1: 2 or even 4: 1: 1. If the tuber is rather large, then it is recommended to pour humus into the purchased soil for aroids (1 part). Before applying fertilizer to the soil, experts advise watering it well.

Dormant period

Such a plant simply needs a dormant period. In the process of preparing for wintering, all the leaves die off. For this period, it is recommended to rearrange the flower pot in a darkened and sufficiently cool place. Systematic moistening is required. In the last days of March, it is necessary to transplant the tubers, using new larger pots for this than the previous ones. If rot appears on the tuber, then it should be removed from the soil. Take a very sharp knife and carefully cut out the affected part.Then you need to process the cut with chopped charcoal and leave the tuber for 1 day in the open air to dry. Then amorphophallus can be planted in a fresh soil mixture. A large number of gardeners are advised not to leave the tubers for storage in the substrate. After the leaves completely die off, you must carefully remove the tubers from the container, remove the substrate from them and carefully examine. Then you need to separate the daughter nodules. If there are dead roots and rotten areas, then they should be cut with a very sharp knife. Places of cuts are treated with a strong solution of manganese potassium. After that, the tubers must be stored in a dark, dry and warm place.

Transplant features

The transplant is carried out at the end of the rest period. To prepare the soil mixture, it is necessary to combine humus, peat, sod and leafy soil, as well as sand, which must be taken in equal proportions.

Reproduction methods

You can propagate by seeds, children, and also divide the tuber.

Most often propagated by children. The dormant period begins after the foliage of a given plant withers. It is at this time that the tubers must be pulled out of the container, all the substrate removed from them and the daughter nodules must be separated. For storage, they are placed in a rather dark, always dry and warm (from 10 to 15 degrees) place (for the whole winter). Landing takes place in March or April.

It is also quite possible to divide the tuber, but for such a procedure only the one that has sprouted buds is suitable. At the same time, it should be remembered that at least 1 such kidney must be present on each division.

Cutting should be done very carefully, taking care not to hurt the kidneys. Next, you need to process the cuts, and for this, crushed charcoal is used

Leave the cuttings in the open air to dry for 24 hours. After that, plant in the soil mixture. Watering at first should be done with extreme caution.

Seed propagation is very rarely used. Such amorphophallus begins to bloom only after a few years.

Pests and diseases

As a rule, this plant is resistant to pests, but aphids or spider mites can settle on a young leaf. If you water very abundantly, then rot may appear on the tubers.

If the leaf begins to dry out, this means that the plant either does not have enough light, or watering is very poor. If the color of the leaf acquires a great contrast, then this indicates a lack of light.

Breeding penstemon

Growing from seeds

Most often, gardeners propagate penstemone by seed. Seed material can be harvested from bushes in your garden or purchased from a specialist store. It is recommended to sow them in open ground in autumn or spring, after return frosts are left behind. Sow seeds in a previously prepared area, while sprinkling them with a not very thick layer of soil.

Seeds of some species of penstemon must be stratified before sowing (for example, alpine penstemon). To do this, they are sown in the garden in October or November, where they will undergo natural stratification in the soil in winter. However, experienced gardeners recommend sowing seed material in boxes, while sprinkling it on top with a thin layer of soil or sand. Crops are kept at room temperature for 20 days. During this time, the seeds will have time to swell. After that, the box is covered with 1 layer of lutrasil on top and transferred to the garden. Do not forget to secure the lutrasil or it could be blown away by the wind. For example, you can secure it with an elastic band by tying it around the container. Thanks to this shelter, weed seeds will not get into the substrate. Crops must be outdoors for at least 8 weeks, during which time the seeds will have time to stratify. If it snows, be sure to sprinkle the crops with it, because thanks to the melted water, the seedlings appear much faster.With the onset of spring, the crops are transferred to a warm room or greenhouse, where seedlings will appear over time. As a rule, the first shoots appear in about a week and a half. However, some of the bushes you have grown from seeds may begin to bloom in the first year of growth.

Cuttings

First, prepare cuttings, for this you need to cut off those stems on which there are no inflorescences. After that, the lower part of the segments is treated with a solution of a product that stimulates root growth. In the garden, select an area in partial shade and plant cuttings on it. Each stalk is covered with a plastic bottle on top, the neck of which is preliminarily cut off. When the cuttings are fully rooted, they can be transplanted to a permanent location.

How to propagate by layering

Only undersized and weaving varieties can be propagated by layering. Select a stem, bend it to the surface of the soil and sprinkle with a layer of soil. The roots on the layer should appear in about 30 days, after which it is cut off from the parent bush, removed from the ground and planted in a new place.

Dividing the bush

In this way, it is most convenient to propagate penstemone during transplantation. To begin with, remove an adult shrub from the soil, remove soil from its root system and divide it into parts. After that, the delenki are planted in pits, which should be prepared in advance. Remember that you can divide a bush only if it is already 3 years old. Younger bushes often die with this method of reproduction. All penstemon bushes must be divided once every 5 years, thanks to this you will be able to both rejuvenate the plant and propagate it. Do not neglect the rejuvenation procedure, since a plant older than five years begins to age very quickly: new stems cease to form in it, and inflorescences do not appear, which inevitably leads to a complete loss of decorativeness.

Reproduction of Ophiopogon

Ophiopogon propagates by sowing or dividing.

Only botanical species will be propagated by sowing, variegated or black varieties must be propagated by sowing. On the other hand, seedlings grown from seedlings grow slowly, taking at least 3 or 4 years to grow before the plant reaches its adult size.

Seed propagation

The seeds are sown in a pot or container and placed in an unheated room with a positive temperature.

Sowing can also be done outdoors in soft areas.

Division

Spring is the best season for splitting bunches:

1. Tear off bulky bundles and cut them out with a sharp tool.
2. Cut the rhizomes into 8-10-leaved segments for as many roots as possible.
3. Plant immediately in the soil of ripe compost.
4. Place each bunch in an 8cm cup or pot and treat it immediately as an adult shrub.

Peculiarities

Japanese anemone, she is also an autumn anemone, belongs to the category of perennial herbaceous plants that grow in nature in the territory of East Asia

It is worth paying attention to the fact that according to data from various sources, the plant is not named today by the modern name Anemone japonica due to the fact that the original origin of the species was proved in China, in the Hubei province. One way or another, the Hubei Japanese string (Anemone hupensis), described by botanists, is a flower that certainly deserves attention.

What is the difference between the autumn string and other plants? First of all, the height of the stems - it is 50-150 cm, which is quite a lot for a herbaceous species. Japanese anemones are divided into large-flowered and small-flowered, there are double varieties, they are the most decorative. But gardeners value most of all the low and laconic varieties with the refined beauty of the petals, emphasizing the purity of the form.

Japanese anemones are distinguished by their delicate color, they are characterized by "marshmallow", pastel shades: milky, creamy white, delicate pink or lilac-violet. The middle of the flower is egg-yellow, slightly fluffy. The stems of the plant are always long, hard, very strong. The rhizome has a creeping structure, is located superficially and grows rather quickly.

Benefit and harm

Ophiopogon cleans room air well.
Its phytoncides prevent the reproduction of pathogens. In Japan, China and Thailand, the roots of "Ophiopogon" are used for the preparation of medicines.

Pharmacists in Western countries are conducting research and may soon develop new medicines using this plant.

Important!
Some parts of the plant, such as flowers, can cause an allergic reaction. Ophiopogon is widely used in landscape design to create borders and fill shady areas

At home, a well-groomed flower creates the effect of upward movement, transforms the space of the room, decorates and disinfects

Ophiopogon is widely used in landscape design to create borders and fill shady areas. At home, a well-groomed flower creates the effect of an upward movement, transforms the space of the room, decorates and disinfects.

A grateful plant responds to minimal care and tolerates a lack of light - a big plus in winter conditions, when many plants suffer without additional lighting.

Ophiopogon is a perennial herbaceous evergreen plant native to Southeast and South Asia, where it grows in the shade of shady forests. Despite the fact that the appearance of representatives of the genus is indistinguishable from grass or cereals, the culture belongs to the Liliaceae family.

Growing, the plant forms lush and dense clumps of numerous narrow leaves collected in a rosette. The horse system is superficial, with small tubers on the roots.

The culture is decorative from spring to late autumn and not only due to the magnificent varietal forms of oriental grass. For delicate white, lilac and violet-white bell flowers, collected in spike-shaped inflorescences, the plant is often called "Japanese lily of the valley". Flowering begins in July and lasts until early autumn.

Planting and caring for ophiopogon in the open field is not difficult, so the Japanese lily of the valley has recently been very popular with gardeners.

Caring for Japanese ophiopogon at home

Illumination

There are no special lighting requirements. This plant is able to calmly tolerate both bright sunlight and grow in the shade. Ophiopogon can be placed both near the southern window opening and next to the northern one. He also feels great in the back of the room.

In winter, it is not necessary to supplement it, since there is enough light for it even on these short days.

Temperature regime

In the warm season, this flower can grow at absolutely any (except sub-zero) temperature. After the threat of frost at night has passed, it can be transferred to the street (to the balcony or to the garden).

In winter, the plant has a dormant period and at this time it needs coolness. So, it must be rearranged to a cool place (from 2 to 10 degrees). It is recommended to store it in a pot at this time and put it right in it on a terrace or loggia that does not freeze.

How to water

You need to water systematically and fairly abundantly. It is necessary to ensure that the potting medium is slightly moistened at all times, but not wet. Overdrying the earthen coma should not be allowed in any case, since the plant will react to this in the most negative way.

If in winter the Japanese ophiopogon is in the cold, then it is watered less often, or rather, after the topsoil has dried (to a depth of 1 or 2 centimeters).In the event that during this period the plant is at room temperature, it must be watered in the same way as in the summer.

Watering should be done with extremely soft and well-separated water at room temperature.

Humidity

It needs high air humidity, so it is recommended to spray this plant very often (at least 1 time per day). Also, to increase the humidity, you can pour expanded clay or pebbles into the pallet and pour in a little water, and then put a flower pot on it. You can also place a vessel with water in the immediate vicinity of the flower.

During cold wintering, it is not required to somehow additionally moisturize the ophiopogon, since at this time the moisture contained in the cool air is sufficient for it.

Earth mixture

Suitable soil should be loose and nutrient-dense. To prepare a suitable soil mixture, it is necessary to combine sod, leaf and peat soil, as well as coarse sand in a ratio of 1: 2: 1: 1. It is recommended to add a small amount of bone meal to this mixture as well.

Do not forget to make a good drainage layer using expanded clay or small pebbles. It will help to avoid waterlogging of the soil.

This plant is also grown hydroponically.

Fertilizer

It is necessary to feed the plant throughout the year 2 times a month. In the spring, as well as in the first half of the summer period, fertilizers with a high nitrogen content should be used. In the autumn-winter period, instead of nitrogen fertilizers, it is necessary to use those that contain a lot of potassium. It was also noted that in the autumn-winter, as well as early spring, the plant needs phosphorus.

Reproduction methods

Often this flower is propagated by dividing the rhizome. To do this, during transplantation, it is carefully cut into pieces. At the same time, each section should have a good root lobe and several shoots. Places of cuts must be processed with crushed charcoal.

Less commonly propagated by seeds.

Pests and diseases

Resistant to diseases and pests. However, with improper care, various problems can arise:

• specks may appear on the foliage;
• due to waterlogging, rot is formed on the root system;
• if the dormant period is violated or it does not exist at all, then flowering will not occur.

Beneficial features

This plant has phytoncidal properties, and it is also capable of inhibiting pathogenic microbes that are in the air next to it.

Attention! Japanese ophiopogon is poisonous

How to care

After planting bulbous irises, you need to make a full entrance behind them.

It is especially worth paying due attention to the watering process. Irises need moisture during the growing season

Irrigate the soil regularly, but do not overdo it. If there is standing water, the bulbs may die.

In summer, plant care changes. A dormant period ensues as the bulbs need to be warm and dry. To comply with these conditions, it is necessary to dig out the planting material, dry it and keep it in a container with sawdust in the fall. Bulbs tolerate winter cold normally, usually without losses.

But if there are severe frosts outside, then it is worthwhile to provide for additional warming of the soil over the plantings. To do this, you can use spruce branches, a layer of leaves and lutrasil.

To guarantee the rescue of the bulbs, you will need to dig them in the autumn. Until spring, they are stored in a refrigerator at a temperature of 5-10 degrees. You can also place the planting material in the basement. And for watering it is best to use an automatic watering system.

The video shows how to care for Dutch iris:

For the full development and growth of iris, it is necessary to carry out top dressing. This should be done in early spring. A mineral fertilizer is used, which includes 2 parts of nitrogen, 1 part of phosphorus and 1 part of potassium.When flowers and buds begin to form, then it is worth using another mixture: 3 parts of nitrogen, 3 parts of potassium and 1 part of phosphorus.

At the end of the summer period, it is necessary to apply a top dressing consisting of phosphorus and potassium, taken in equal amounts. Performing regular and high-quality feeding, irises will delight you with bright and beautiful flowers throughout the entire flowering. It will also be interesting to know more about the manual lawn fertilizer spreader.

The Dutch iris is often struck by sheet drills. If you notice damaged leaves, then they should be cut off, and the plant should be treated with insecticides. The plant can also be affected by various forms of spotting.

In this case, you also need to remove the damaged leaves and process them with special preparations, which can be found in any flower shop.

Dutch iris is a widespread decorative culture that today actively decorates various flower beds and flower beds. And although the flowering period of the plant is short-lived, it is so bright and colorful that it will be remembered by others for a long time. And if you correctly plant and care for the iris, then this period can be slightly extended. This material will tell you about planting and caring for crocuses in the open field.

Varieties

There are 20 species in the genus ofiopogon, of which only three are used in culture. Also, breeders have bred several hybrid varieties of ophiopogon.

Ophiopogon Yaburan. The plant is a rhizome herbaceous perennial, which forms dense clumps 30-80 cm high. Leaf rosettes consist of many linear, leathery leaves. The edge of the sheet plate is blunt. Its outer surface is colored dark green, and relief longitudinal veins are visible from below. The length of the leaves can reach 80 cm, and the width is 1 cm. On an erect peduncle, an inflorescence 15 cm long opens. Many tubular white or light lilac flowers in the shape of a lily of the valley exude a delicate, pleasant aroma. Varieties of ophiopogon yaburan:

• variegata - along the edges of the leaf plate has contrasting white stripes;
• aureivariegatum - lateral stripes on the leaves are painted golden;
• nanus is a compact variety that can withstand frosts down to -15 ° C;
• white dragon - the leaves are almost completely white with a narrow green stripe in the middle.

Ophiopogon is Japanese. The plant has a fibrous rhizome covered with tubers. The length of the rigid linear leaves is 15-35 cm, and the width is only 2-3 mm. Leaflets are slightly curved towards the central vein. On a short peduncle there is a loose inflorescence 5-7 cm long. Small, drooping flowers are painted lilac-red. The petals grow together into a tube 6-8 mm long. Popular varieties:

• compactus - forms low, narrow curtains;
• Kyoto Dwarf - curtain height does not exceed 10 cm;
• Silver Dragon - there is a white stripe in the center of the leaf plate.

Ophiopogon is flat-shot. The plant forms a low, but very spreading clump. The length of the belt-like dark green leaves is 10-35 cm. The leaf plates of this species are wider and darker. Some varieties are characterized by almost black vegetation. In summer, the bush is abundantly covered with large white or pink flowers, and later with many dark berries.

The flat-fired ophiopogon variety "Nigrescens" is very popular. It forms sprawling clumps up to 25 cm high with almost black foliage. In summer, the arrows of the inflorescences are covered with creamy white flowers, and in autumn the bush is completely covered with black round berries. Frost-resistant variety, can withstand cold snaps down to -28 ° C.

Indoor ophiopogon. Compact, thermophilic species for indoor cultivation. The belt-like, twisted foliage is colored dark green. There are also variegated varieties.

Japanese Ophiopogon (Ophiopogon japonicus) - AQUARIUM by RALFA

The most winter-hardy varieties of whorled coreopsis

As mentioned above, as a result of selection work, many cultivars have lost their ability to endure the winter cold and have actually turned into annuals. Nevertheless, there is a group of varieties that quite successfully survive the winter without shelter in the middle lane.

The most popular varieties for 3 zones of frost resistance (up to -40 degrees) are as follows.

Moonbeam coreopsis is a charming bush that forms a variety of star-shaped creamy yellow daisies from early summer to late fall. The center of the inflorescence is dark yellow. The cultivar is the winner of the "Plants of the Year" category of the British Ornamental Perennial Association. The plant is 30-40 centimeters high. The diameter of the flower is 3 centimeters. The growth rate is moderate.

Coreopsis Zagreb has very bright golden yellow flowers and will serve as a charming addition to your sunny garden. The petals are pointed, the center of the inflorescence is yellowish brown. It blooms very profusely, the diameter of the inflorescence is 3 centimeters. It grows in the form of low branchy bushes 20-30 centimeters high. It grows rather quickly. Winner of the Garden Merit Award of the Royal Horticultural Society of Britain.

There are also varieties of coreopsis that may need light shelter for the winter if the winter is severe enough and with little snow. But, in principle, they can also hibernate without shelter. Such a group of varieties is the most numerous and delenki are often found on the market.

The most popular varieties of coreopsis of the 5th zone of frost resistance (up to -29 degrees) are as follows.

Coreopsis Buttermilk was launched in 2015. Translated from English, the name means "whey", its petals are delicious creamy yellow color. Against the background of the petals, the brown center of the inflorescence stands out successfully. The petals are rounded and have small serrations; the flower diameter is 3.5 centimeters. The height of the bush is 30-50 centimeters. It grows slowly.

Coreopsis "Bengal Tiger" is distinguished by very bright variegated inflorescences: the middle of the flower is maroon, and the edges of the petals are bright yellow. With such expressive coloring, this coreopsis, apparently, resembles the eyes of a tiger, for which it got its name. The diameter of the flower baskets is 3.5-4 centimeters. Forms fluffy compact bushes 30 centimeters high.

Coreopsis Ladybird blooms brick-red, chamomile-like flowers with yellow-orange tips on individual petals. Bright baskets bloom against the backdrop of neat, domed bushes with dark green feathery foliage. Plant height 25-35 centimeters. It grows slowly. More resistant to powdery mildew.

And finally, the third group of varieties, absolutely not winter-hardy in the middle lane. If it is possible to find copies of such a coreopsis (although in our country they are on sale very rarely, if at all), then they can be used only as annuals.

These varieties, belonging to the 6, and sometimes 9 zones, primarily include hybrids of the Punch line: Mango Punch, Lemon Punch, Rum Punch, as well as Ruby Frost, Little Penny "and many others.

Among perennials, the best neighbors of coreopsis will be plants with slender vertical inflorescences. Lyudmila Svetlitskaya

Varietal variety

"Crystal halo"

Its lower petals are large and round, they are decorated with a light border and purple veins, and the upper lilac flowers have white spots and a yellow middle. Although the flowers are small - only 15 cm in diameter - they look very impressive. On a stem up to 0.9 m high, 3 inflorescences huddle. Looks advantageous with white irises and daylilies.

Eilins Dream

The double purple flower has yellow arrows with a lilac border. There are from 9 to 12 petals. They have a velvet surface and a corrugated texture.

Kita no seiza

Lilac 14-centimeter inflorescences are decorated with yellow blotches at the base of the petals, and the border between the green base and the bright pigment of the petal has a very sharp transition. There are 15 petals in total, they are covered with graceful white veins.

"Rose queen"

Its stems grow up to a meter, they are covered with hard narrow leaves emanating from one point. Lilac flowers have a pleasant pink tint. Fouls are decorated with yellow inclusions and dark purple streaks. A successful breeding option would be pre-landing in containers, and then immersion 7 cm into the reservoir.

"Variegata"

It has variegated leaves, that is, leaves with a mutated color - they are green with light golden stripes. The stems are adorned with large deep purple flowers. The growth of the stems is not the highest - up to 0.75 m.

"Vasily Alferov"

Named after the breeder who had a hand in the creation of numerous varieties of Japanese irises, suitable for the climatic conditions of our country. The height of the stems of this variety reaches 1.1 m, and the flowers themselves are quite large - 20 cm in diameter. This is a suitable option for lovers of large irises.