Correctly cut the weigela for a decorative hedge

"Reasons for pruning" or "Why prune flowers"

When it comes to pruning plants, you always need to look for an answer to the question - why? Because pruning a plant just because you have heard that it is necessary is wrong. There are some really good reasons to prune a flower.

So, pruning is carried out:

1. If the plant has deformed shoots. It so happens that when the “place of residence” is changed, the shoots of the flower become bent, become knobby, irregular, and short. Also for this reason, the plant can shed almost all the leaves (for example, ficus). To give the plant a beautiful appearance, in this case, sanitary-forming pruning is carried out. Then, instead of deformed or overgrown shoots, new and healthy ones grow.

2. Some plants lose their shape during growth. Laurel, citrus fruits, hibiscus, roses, ficuses without pruning look like an overgrown bush. It is formative pruning that is carried out to give the plant the desired shape. For example, you want to get a lush rose bush, and the flower constantly pulls the old shoots up, but does not expel the new, lateral ones. For the correct formation of the crown of the plant, the apical shoots are cut or pinched so that the lateral shoots grow. Pruning can be carried out until the flower takes on a beautiful appearance. But it must be borne in mind that during pruning, the plant weakens, since it throws all its strength into the growth of new shoots. Therefore, during this period, it does not bloom or blooms weakly. If you want your green pet to bloom, stop pruning. Formative pruning also includes the process of creating bonsai.

3. Another reason to do formative pruning is if your flower has become an overgrown plant. Ficuses or lemons sometimes drive out thin, inclined shoots, and the crown becomes asymmetric. Begonias and balsams shed the lower leaves and the trunk looks bald underneath. To prevent this from happening, you need to remove the shoots that are too stretched in time. Sometimes after pruning or even pinching the top, the lower part of the trunk again overgrows with new shoots or bunches of leaves. But sometimes only rejuvenation can correct the situation.

4. There are two types of rejuvenation. In the first case, this is pruning old dried shoots so that new ones grow. This procedure should be carried out, for example, to remove dried shoots of asparagus or cyperus. But if the structure of the plant is such that over time the trunk is bare at the bottom and does not overgrow with new leaves, then you need to cut it off radically. You can cut off the top and root it to get a new plant. This is the rejuvenation of the flower. And the remaining trunk with 2-3 buds (growth points) can give new shoots.

5. Trimming the roots. Not all plants require this procedure. Some may die after it. But if the flower has grown very much, its roots occupy the entire space of the pot, then a plant transplant is required and sometimes it is necessary to cut off excess roots. This should be done if parts of the root are weak or diseased. All rotten, dried, broken roots are also cut off. But, as I said, not all plants tolerate even hygienic pruning. Therefore, it is better not to touch the roots unless necessary. But the necessity is the creation of bonsai. The process of forming a mini-tree often involves cutting the root to make the plant miniature in size.

6. Sanitary pruning is sometimes required. It is carried out if the flower is sick. The diseased parts of the plant must be cut off without regret, sometimes capturing the healthy part so that the disease does not spread, especially with regard to infection with viruses or fungi.Sanitary pruning requires extreme care and attention to keep the infection from progressing. However, any pruning must be done according to the rules.

Types of trimming

The types of pruning differ depending on the age and purpose of breeding the spirea. The age of the plant directly affects the pruning methods, which has the following features:

• in the first and second years of growth in a shrub, it is necessary to shorten all branches;
• in a 3-year-old spirea, three-year-old branches are completely cut off, since they thicken the bush, and almost do not form inflorescences;
• you can start pruning spirits growing separately when the shrub reaches 3-4 years of age.

For spirea, these types of haircuts are used.

Sanitary. Spirea shoots can begin to dry for 2-3 years of growth. Often the end of the shoots in winter is damaged by frost. Such branches are a source of fungal and other infections and a habitat for pests. To protect the spirea from diseases and give it decorative beauty, sanitary pruning is carried out.

It consists in removing:

• all diseased and damaged branches, as well as weak processes in the middle of the bush;
• broken shoots, since they will not recover, but they can become a source of infections in the areas of breakage;
• frost-bitten tops of branches and dried inflorescences not removed in summer.

In spring-flowering spirea, underdeveloped and obsolete (7-10-year-old) branches are subject to removal. Sanitary pruning promotes the growth of healthy shoots and an increase in the number of inflorescences.

Stimulating. This type of trimming consists of shortening the branches in order to form young growth. Old branches are cut to a height of 25-30 cm from the ground, which improves lighting and aeration of the bush. As it grows, the bush, thanks to young shoots, takes on lush forms and many inflorescences. To stimulate flowering in spirea, the ends of the shoots are cut off by 1/3 of the length. This leads to the formation of lateral processes with inflorescences. Incentive pruning should be done every fourth year.

To improve branching, the longest processes are shortened by 20-25 cm. The shaping haircut can be carried out in 2 ways.

Cardinal pruning. In this case, the bush is given the required shape by cutting off the required number of branches.

Spring pruning of perennial flowers

If you did not cut the faded stems in the fall, you can trim them after the young shoots emerge from the ground. Until then, the old stems will serve as beacons so as not to accidentally weed out the plants or plant something in their place. This measure is especially relevant for those plants that come out late after winter (for example, hosta, platycodon).

By its nature, lavender belongs to semi-shrubs, but due to its external characteristics, it is perceived by many as a beautifully blooming perennial

It is important to prune this plant every year in the spring, cutting off the tops by one third of the length, while you can also give the plant a spherical shape

Without a haircut, the lower part of the lavender will be exposed, the bushes will have unattractive "bare legs"

Occasionally, a more radical haircut can be arranged for lavender, but it is important not to cut off the lignified parts of the stem, since the bushes will then branch poorly

A close relative of Perovskia lavender also needs spring pruning. During the winter, the branches of this plant are almost completely frozen over, so in the spring you need to prune when the plant grows. When pruning, they leave 6-8 centimeters from the ground, but if the stem is completely frozen, then it is cut off at the soil level, and young shoots will appear from the root.

In evergreen plants (badan, chastets, geykhera and others), only old leaves that have died during the winter are removed. You cannot completely cut off the bushes, this will weaken the plant or even lead to its death.

Don't throw away last year's berry leaves. The foliage of this plant, which has turned brown during the winter, can be used to prepare a delicious tonic drink called "Mongolian tea".To taste, the leaves of badan, which have undergone natural fermentation in winter, resemble refined varieties of black tea, while they do not contain tannins, but have a number of useful properties, and are indicated for certain diseases. However, the drink has a number of contraindications, so you need to consult your doctor before using it.

It is important to prune the lavender in the spring to give the plant a spherical shape. Oxford Pruning Company

How to prune a shrub correctly?

Let us consider in detail how to form, update and heal a bush with a haircut.

Weigela is divided into 3 types by size:

• dwarf;
• medium;
• high.

In dwarf varieties, the height reaches only half a meter, medium varieties grow up to one and a half meters, and high ones - up to two or a little more. Of course, dwarf weigels should not be cut very shortly, and they only need sanitary pruning, which consists in removing diseased, damaged and weak branches. And also after a lapse of time, when the bush becomes old and stops blooming magnificently, you can rejuvenate it.

Medium and tall plants, on the other hand, need a more thorough and frequent haircut. The pruning procedure is very simple even for novice gardeners and will not be difficult. It is necessary to start forming a bush after 2-3 weeks after planting.

To give it the shape of a ball, it is necessary from below, near the trunk, to shorten the branches by a third of the total length, then gradually cut off, leaving the tips longer and longer, and so on, until you get to the middle. From the middle, the procedure is repeated, only in the reverse order. And so on in a circle to achieve a spherical shape.

Weigela can be easily transformed into other geometric shapes. Triangles, cubes, spirals, waves and even animal shapes. To form an animal's figure, it will be better and easier to build a kind of wire frame, and let the plant grow in it. Then it will be enough just to cut the branches in shape. It only takes imagination and certain skills, but if you wish, everything will work out.

If you want to give the shrub the shape of a tree, then choose one of the smoothest and most beautiful shoot, and remove the rest. This will be your future trunk. You can also form a trunk from several shoots. They can be twisted around each other or braided, thus giving an unusual shape. In any case, you first need to grow the stem, and then start forming the crown on it.

For sanitary cutting, as well as for the recovery and renewal of the shrub, it is necessary to cut off the shoots above the bud, leaving from 0.5 to 1 cm of the trunk on top. Throughout the season, it is necessary to thin out the plant from time to time for free air circulation, good lighting and the appearance of new shoots.

Just do not overdo it, since the shrub blooms in the second year of its life and if you remove a lot of last year's shoots, then do not expect lush flowering. And in order for weigela to please you with repeated flowering, it is necessary to remove all faded inflorescences, cutting off part of the tops of the branches by 2-3 cm.

To rejuvenate the plant, upon reaching the age of 3, it is necessary to cut off all the trunks completely, leaving hemp about 10 cm high.Cutting places should be immediately treated with garden varnish or any fungicide, it will not be superfluous to treat the soil around the bush with it. You can cut off the entire plant, along with the young, or you can only shorten the old branches. New shoots will subsequently go from them.

What is a haircut for?

Trimming the spirea is a necessary component of caring for it. As the shrub grows, the shoots spread out in all directions, its shape takes on an unattractive appearance, and, in addition, over time, the branches dry out. Timely haircut of the spirea returns its beautiful silhouette and promotes rejuvenation.

In summer varieties of shrubs, inflorescences are formed on the shoots of the current season, so pruning gives them not only a decorative look.It is also needed to stimulate profuse flowering. In addition, after summer pruning, spirea can bloom again in September.

In some species of spirea, shoots grow directly from the roots. As a result, the bush expands and takes over a large area. To avoid unwanted active growth and maintain the original size of the shrub, it is necessary to regularly remove some of the young shoots.

Pruning also strengthens the root system and stimulates new shoot growth, making the plant more lush.

Types of pruning and their purpose

If roses are not cut for a long period, then they quickly lose their attractiveness. The aboveground part of the plants dies off literally after a few years and numerous shoots begin to appear from the buds at the base. If for wild specimens it is enough to cut off old and dried shoots so that they come to life again, then this is not enough for cultivated varieties. Almost all types of roses at the age of 3-5 years undergo annual pruning.

In order for roses to delight with their beauty all summer long, they need constant control.

Depending on the purpose, several trimming options are distinguished:

• sanitary;
• formative;
• anti-aging.

What does cropping give:

• Extends the life of the bush. If you do not resort to anti-aging pruning for 2-3 years, the plant becomes unkempt and subsequently dries up.
• Promotes abundant and beautiful flowering. This is possible provided that the plant receives adequate nutrition, and thinned, damaged and old shoots prevent this. In addition, they create a thickening of the bush, which provokes the development of fungal and infectious diseases. In such a case, sanitary pruning is used, which should be carried out in August.
• Stimulates roses to bloom again after a short period of time. This is the main function of summer pruning after the first wave of flowering. The procedure is carried out in cloudy weather.
• To form a beautiful crown at the bush. On young, obtained by budding (grafting with a kidney), during the summer, the shoots are pinched over the fourth leaf. Due to this, lateral branching is enhanced and more buds are formed in the future.

In summer, grafted roses should be cut off the wild growth that forms on the rootstock. This usually happens after frosty winters. If you neglect this procedure, then the wilds begin to take away most of the nutrients from the plant and, as a result, will simply "clog" it. It is recommended to break off such processes (just do not cut them off) immediately, otherwise they will grow back again. And the shoots stretching from the base are cut off at the very root collar, having previously cleared it from the ground. If the cut is higher, then the wilds will start growing again.

If the shoots are not removed in time from the roses grafted to the rosehip, then it will soon clog the bush

If roses do not bloom for a long time despite proper care, the reason for this is "blind" shoots. They differ from normal ones in the absence of a growth eye or fresh growth. They only have an underdeveloped kidney. The reason for this may be a lack of lighting or an unfortunate neighborhood with other decorative cultures. If you delete an empty node, then the shoots are activated.

Cropping rates

Gardeners conventionally divide pruning into several degrees:

• Strong - applied to overly thickened bushes at the level of 3-4 living buds from the bottom. Leave shoots no more than 15 cm long.
• Moderate - carried out for newly planted plants, the exception will be adult copies of hybrid tea roses. Cut off the stems somewhere above the 5-7 eye, and cut the lateral shoots by half. In this way, all varieties of roses are pruned after the first flowering.
• Light - this is a kind of adjustment of the bush with cutting off the stems by 2/3 of the total length at the level of 8–12 buds. It is undesirable to resort to such a procedure often, which causes thickening of the plantings, deterioration of flowering and thinning of the shoots.

There are several trim levels: short, medium and high

When choosing the option for pruning a rose after flowering, they are guided by its age, size, growth rate and variety. At the end of the summer season, a strong "haircut" should not be done, so as not to cause intensive growth of young shoots on the eve of winter.

How to prune

There may be several trimming options. And they all depend on various factors, including the type of plant. So, trimming a hedge will differ from trimming a standard rose. Then you need to determine what type of pruning you are using and for what, and also follow a few general recommendations:

• remove all dry, diseased and damaged branches and stems first;
• then remove the side shoots and shoots that prevent the plant from growing upward;
• cut off branches that come in contact with others, as this can provoke disease or pest attacks;
• prune the tops of shrubs to slow down their growth. True, this is not suitable for all plants, and sometimes it is easier to transplant them to another part of the garden so that they do not interfere with the growth of other crops;
• trim the plants gently to shape them properly. Take your time and inspect the plant from different angles, periodically taking a step back to assess the results;
• always prune the branch to the point of growth or taper of growth, without leaving a cut in the middle of the branch or stem.

How to prune jasmine after flowering

Jasmine blooms until mid-summer, after which the flowers fade. In this case, the shrub should be put in order, because wilted buds look unattractive. Pruning is done in the middle or last month of summer. How to prune jasmine after flowering?

When pruning in summer, all dried and wilted flowers are removed with a sharp pruner or scissors. In this case, the slices are not processed with anything. After removing the inflorescences, the bush is examined. If individual shoots are strongly branching and knocked out of the general shape, they are slightly cut off. This activates the development of lateral shoots from mature branches. Subsequently, they give buds.

Note! Only the longest shoots need to be shortened. This will allow you to make adjustments to the shape of the bush.

A more thorough pruning is carried out in the spring - during the formation of the crown. Get rid of dry and broken branches. They are harmful to the development of the shrub. They are removed in the summer, without waiting for spring.

The plant must be pruned after flowering.

Care after purchase

For indoor flowers, and especially for decorative Kalanchoe, good care at home is very important. The first planting (transplant) of the Kalanchoe requires special attention. Immediately after purchase, the plant should be transplanted into another pot with new soil.

Most likely it has long outgrown its old pot, but remained in it for economic reasons. The soil should be changed, since it is not known what composition it has. For cultivation, pots with a diameter of 9 to 18 cm are used.

The most common sizes are 12-15 cm. The pot should not be too large, as this can cause bay and death. But too small a pot will not be so critical.

The worst thing that can happen is that the plant won't bloom.

Transfer

Kalanchoe grows very quickly and therefore it is very important to replant it in a timely manner. It is advisable to do this at least once a year, at the end of March.

It is advisable to do this at least once a year, at the end of March.

Each new pot should be 2-3 cm larger than the previous one.

The transplant must be carried out very carefully so as not to damage the fragile stems and leaves.

The optimal soil composition should include turf, leaf and sand in equal proportions.

How to properly care for Kalanchoe blooming at home?

Maintaining the life of the Kalanchoe is not difficult enough, but in order for it to bloom as often and for a long time, additional knowledge and efforts will be needed.

Flowering conditions

Flowering begins in November and ends in March, when the dormant period begins.

Conditions for keeping Kalanchoe for abundant flowering:

1. Water moderately and correctly - moisten the soil no more than once a week. Do not wet leaves and flowers. Make sure that there is no excess liquid.
2. Illuminate correctly. That is, provide good access to the sun, but do not leave it in direct sunlight for too long. Normalized light conditions are very important for flowering.

   In winter, you should extend the daytime with artificial lighting to 12 hours, and in summer, shorten it with a canopy or move to a dark corner.

3. Protect from cold and drafts.
4. Fertilize only from June to November, no more than 1-2 times a month.
5. Cut off old leaves and flower stalks.

When to cut?

I determine the ideal timing based on the climatic features of the area and the physiology of the plant itself. So, in the southern regions of our country, it is possible to take up scissors and pruning shears almost at the beginning of February, and in the northern regions it is better to postpone molding until the beginning of April.

My rule of thumb: pruning can be done when the average daily air temperature is more than -4 ° C. If it is colder outside, the wood becomes too hard and brittle, and the tool becomes dull and it is difficult to make a high-quality cut. But here, too, not everything is so simple. For example, I cut conifers almost the entire season, except for a short period of active resinification, which in some species is observed in early spring.

Conifers can be cut all season, except for the period of active resinification in some species in early spring. The correct grip of the scissors is important here.

Deciduous, for the most part, cannot be cut during the period of active sap flow, when the buds wake up and the leaves bloom. A haircut at such a time may even end in the death of the plant. For example, treelike and panicle hydrangeas will “cry” so profusely if touched during this period that they will most likely dry out. Therefore, as soon as trees and shrubs have started to grow, it is better not to risk it and let them fully disclose new foliage. You will find detailed video instructions on pruning hydrangeas in the publications:

• Pruning hydrangea
• How to prune a panicle hydrangea

There are many prejudices about the timing of pruning fruit trees. As I already said, it is better not to touch them during the leafing period, but in the summer, when the harvest is ripening, it is quite possible to do both cutting and pruning. Yes, some of the fruits will die, but the rest will be larger and sweeter.

Read about other features of pruning fruit trees in the materials:

• Pruning in an orchard: a digest of useful site materials
• The perfect fruit tree. What to strive for when forming a crown?
• Saving young fruit trees from overload: step-by-step pruning instructions
• How to extend the life of an old fruit tree. Rejuvenating the ancient elders

When planning your fall haircuts, keep in mind that young growth is less likely to overwinter and is more likely to freeze out. Of course, this is not always critical, but in order not to risk it, it is better to start the procedure when the new growth has time to grow and grow woody.

An autumn haircut requires an analysis of the state of the growth, the procedure should be started when the new growth has time to grow and grow woody

Thorough pruning and shaping haircuts should be moved to spring, and autumn should be devoted to moderate hardwood pruning. To understand the nuances of this process, the article Autumn pruning of trees and shrubs will help.

Important: spring pruning stimulates shoot formation, and summer pruning inhibits. Tip: Choose non-extreme weather for trimming and trimming. This work must not be performed in extreme heat, strong wind and heavy rain.

This work must not be performed in extreme heat, strong wind and heavy rain.

Tip: Choose non-extreme weather for trimming and trimming.Do not perform this work in extreme heat, strong wind or heavy rain.

When to prune rose hips

Starting from the third year, gardeners prune well-rooted rose hips all year round. Even if something went wrong, you can cut the entire bush to the ground. It will quickly recover from overgrowth and again provide an opportunity to experiment. If you are pursuing the goal of getting a good harvest of berries, then the formation should be carried out during the sleep of the plant, that is, from late autumn to early spring. But sanitary pruning is needed as needed.

Pruning in the fall

In the fall, it is not recommended to carry out formative pruning (shortening or cutting out strong, but unnecessary shoots). The fact is that during the winter the bush can be damaged by frosts, winds, and a heavy thickness of snow. Therefore, in the fall, you should limit yourself to sanitary pruning, removing small shoots in the lower part of the bush, as well as those branches that will be removed in any case: curves, broken off, growing inward and downward, dry and sick.

It is better to transfer pruning of old branches of rose hips to spring. If many young unripe shoots die in winter, the old lignified ones will be saved. In the spring we cut them off, but not at ground level, but on a stump with two buds. Over the summer, strong stems will grow in this place, which will yield a harvest the next year.

Pruning in spring

Summer is ahead, so spring pruning is most important. The plant wakes up and immediately directs all the juices for growth. Young branches will grow over the summer, ripen and tolerate the winter well. First of all, we cut off all frozen tops and broken shoots. Then we carry out formative pruning and thinning.

In spring, old branches with cracked bark are clearly visible

When and how best to cultivate an overgrown rosehip

If you got an abandoned site, or you decided to cultivate a rose hip, which has not been paid attention to for many years, cut it all down to the root. You need to do this in the fall

Take away the entire above-ground part and burn it. So you will not allow fungi and pests to move into the ground for wintering and re-settle on a young bush that will begin to grow in spring.

Another option is to uproot the plants, and in the process, cut a few cuttings with roots for planting elsewhere. The best time for this event is early spring. It will be clearly visible which buds have wintered, are already awakening and are ready to grow.

Rosehip is a culture on which you can learn pruning without the risk of losing the plant. To gain experience, plant 2-3 varieties of bushes. Use a variety of plant formation methods, prune your rose hips in the spring and fall, and you will find the most effective way to get a rich harvest.