Correct pruning of spirea, plant care in autumn, preparation for winter

Diseases and pests and their control

All types of spirea are not often attacked by various pests, but sometimes it happens. Let's take a look at some of them.

Spider mite

Perhaps the most formidable among them is the spider mite, since in one growing season, from 8 to 10 generations of this pest can appear. Whitish paniculate spots appear on the surface of the leaves on which the spider mite has settled. Then the leaves turn yellow, dry out and fall off.
The number of spider mites increases especially noticeably from July to August (in hot and dry summers).

To combat this pest, arex (0.2 percent solution), metaphos, fosalon, celtan and phosphamide are used.

Aphid

Also, aphids, which feed on the sap of leaves, pedicels and tender young shoots, do quite a lot of harm. It is especially dangerous from June to mid-August.

This pest can be destroyed with solutions of pyrimor, actellik, kronefos, fosalon. With a small lesion, folk remedies will also help, such as tincture of tobacco, capsicum, onion, garlic, and soap solution.

Diseases

In addition to pests, spirea can be affected by fungal infections, such as gray mold and various spots
... For treatment, fungicidal preparations are used, such as foundazol, phytosporin-m, ditan m-45, Bordeaux mixture, colloidal sulfur.

Often your attention in city flower beds is attracted by a small ornamental shrub with crimson flowers and yellowish foliage. This is Japanese spirea

She took a worthy place in the decoration of city flower beds and summer cottages due to its cheapness, unpretentiousness and preservation of decorative qualities from spring to late autumn.

The effect of pruning on the appearance and development of spirea

Spirea is the type of shrub that gratefully responds to pruning, even serious. Such procedures stimulate both active plant growth and vigorous flowering in all varieties, including spring flowering and summer flowering varieties.

Lack of regular pruning, on the contrary, will lead to the fact that the shrub will look unkempt and turn into thickets with dry branches and weak, unattractive flowering - the bush simply will not have the strength to form new buds. Moreover, if in the middle of summer (July) we cut off the faded shoots, the shrub can bloom again in September! The main thing is not to forget to remove the withered shoots again in the fall.

Thus, the main advantages of pruning are: a noticeable increase in the splendor of the bush, more abundant or even repeated flowering, giving the shrub absolutely any shape, including the geometric outlines characteristic of a hedge. In addition, the treated shrub will allow more air and light to pass through on time. The procedure will minimize the risk of attack by pests or the occurrence of diseases due to leaf blowing in the depths of the crown. It is almost impossible to cut a spirea incorrectly, so do not be afraid to harm it with this procedure.

Autumn pruning of spirea

Pruning is a necessary part of the complex of measures for the care of this shrub. It helps to maintain abundant flowering, and also constantly rejuvenates the bush. The pruning method depends on the age of the bush, the type of plant, and the time of its flowering.

Some growers consider this operation unnecessary. However, without it, the bush will quickly turn into shaggy and sloppy, the shoots will stretch and thin out, and the flowers are crushed.Old dried branches will accumulate inside the bush, which will impede air exchange, which will ultimately lead to stagnation of air inside the bush and an increase in humidity. All these factors can cause fungal diseases.

When to trim spirea - in spring or autumn

Throughout the season, you need to sanitize the bush, removing broken and dried shoots. Full pruning is best done in the fall. The only exceptions are the northernmost areas where this shrub is grown. In them, due to the peculiarities of the climate, after the autumn haircut, the spirea may simply not have time to recover before the arrival of cold weather. Therefore, in such areas, it is cut in the spring.

Do I need to trim the spirea for the winter

No additional pruning is required as a winterization measure. Most species of this plant are winter-hardy and easily tolerate even the most severe frosts. Before winter, it is enough to tie all the shoots into one bunch, bend them to the ground, and then cover them with a layer of mulch and snow. Varieties that do not differ in sufficient frost resistance are bent to the ground, fixed, and why they are covered with a thick layer of fallen leaves, straw or sawdust.

Types and timing of pruning spirea in the fall

For the first few years after planting, the bush is not pruned, as this can worsen the condition of its root system. Starting from 3-4 years of age, the following types of pruning can be carried out:

1. Stimulating. This pruning consists in pruning all lignified shoots at a height of about 30 cm. This measure stimulates the growth of new lateral shoots. The procedure is carried out in mid-autumn, before the temperature begins to drop below 0 ° C.
2. Anti-aging. This is a type of deep pruning that allows the actual growth of a new shrub. Rejuvenating pruning is carried out in September-October, completely cutting off all shoots at soil level. This procedure is recommended for old bushes or bushes damaged by pests. In the spring, the spirea will grow again, giving powerful shoots from the buds located near the root collar.

How to prune a spirea in the fall

In autumn, the shoots are cut to the level at which the buds of the lignified part are located. At the same time, the formation of a bush is carried out. It is also necessary to remove some shoots from the interior to maintain proper air exchange and prevent mold growth.

Pruning spirea in summer flowering autumn

You can start pruning varieties of the summer flowering period starting from 4 years of life of the bush. In summer, shoots can be shortened by one third to stimulate lateral shoot formation and enhance flowering. At the beginning of autumn, sanitary cleaning should be carried out, branches that are growing incorrectly and lagging behind in development should be removed. Once every 7-8 years, it is necessary to intensively thin out the bush, leaving several of the most powerful shoots, and completely remove all the rest.

Pruning early flowering spirea in autumn

Early varieties bloom on last year's shoots. In the fall, it is required to remove about one fifth of each bush by pruning them at ground level. This stimulates enhanced spring growth.

Spirea pruning scheme in autumn

The spirea bush takes several years to form. In the second year of life, you can start pruning it. It is produced according to the following scheme:

1. Sick, damaged and dry shoots are completely cut out. If the branch is broken, then it is cut to 1 living bud.
2. In young shoots, the tips that did not have time to woody are cut off.
3. For shrubs over 5 years old, you can begin to carry out anti-aging pruning, removing several adult shoots in order to replace them with young ones.

If, after rejuvenating pruning, there is no enhanced formation of new strong shoots, you should think about planting a new plant.

Pruning spirea in the fall for beginners:

How to properly plant spirea in the fall

This ornamental shrub looks great both in individual and group planting. For example, it is often used as a hedge.Before planting, you need to choose a suitable place, and also stock up on a sufficient amount of planting material.

Landing site preparation

A planted spirea will do well in an open, well-lit area with loose soil. It should be borne in mind that partial shade has a good effect on this plant, it feels better in such conditions and gives brighter flowers, but their number will be less than when grown in open areas.

Sand or peat is often added to loosen the soil. These plants do not tolerate excess moisture, therefore swampy areas of the terrain are not suitable for planting them. Conifers get along best as neighbors with spirea.

Preparation of planting material

As a rule, the seedlings of this shrub are sold in nurseries or specialty stores. Their root system must be closed, that is, the seedling must have a clod of earth on the roots. It is preferable that it is young and does not have leaves, since their presence negatively affects the survival rate of the plant. If the root system of the seedling is open, it must be examined. The roots should be moist, pliable, and free of blackness. It is encouraged if they are covered with a mixture of manure and clay. The bark of the seedlings should be green, and the buds should be alive and healthy.

Rules for planting spirea in the fall in open ground

In the fall, it is allowed to plant a spirea of ​​both spring and summer flowering periods. It is better to do this in wet rainy weather, so the plants take root better. The planting hole needs to be prepared a few days before planting. Its size should exceed the volume of the root system together with a lump of earth. The pit walls are made vertical. A drainage layer of broken brick, expanded clay or crushed stone must be laid on the bottom.

Then an earthen mound is poured in the center of the pit. A seedling is installed on it. If the root system is open, the roots of the seedling are straightened along the walls of the earthen mound, and then sprinkled with soil up to half. After that, a bucket of water is added to the pit and finally fall asleep. The soil is slightly compacted, an earthen bead is poured around the seedling to prevent water from spreading during irrigation. After that, the root zone is mulched with peat or humus.

How to transplant spirea to a new place

Spirea that has not reached 4 years of age can be safely transplanted to another place in the fall. The easiest way to do this is by digging it up along with a clod of earth on the roots, and then planting it in another place. The root system of older bushes is already quite well developed, so transplanting an adult spirea in the fall will be fraught with certain difficulties. In this case, often not the entire bush is transplanted, but only part of it.

Types and terms of pruning shrubs

Throughout the growing season, meadowsweet should be periodically pruned. This plant is so plastic that it is easy to form, and reacts very positively to pruning, throwing out more powerful shoots and forming a larger number of inflorescences. Thanks to the haircut, it is possible to achieve an increase in the decorativeness of the culture, because the meadowsweet belongs to the fast-growing species. It gives a lot of root growth and shoots, so without timely cutting it will become a messy bush.

Depending on the goals pursued, spirea pruning is divided into the following types:

• sanitizing;
• stimulating;
• formative;
• anti-aging.

The shoots of meadowsweet are short-lived and after 1-2 years they begin to dry out. If left on the bush, the twigs will become a haven for pests, a breeding ground for fungal spores. Some types of shrubs do not tolerate frosts very well, the tips of the branches freeze slightly. To protect the culture from diseases and restore decorativeness, throughout the growing season, gardeners remove diseased, dry, broken branches. Frozen shoots are cut in the spring before bud break.

Stimulating haircut is used for early flowering meadowsweet over 3-4 years old. By removing weak growth, branching is stimulated, flowering is enhanced. This approach will improve the illumination and ventilation of the crown, which will have a beneficial effect on the health of the culture. A stimulating haircut is performed in early autumn.

It is customary to deal with the formation of a shrub in spring or autumn. The autumn period for gardeners is less loaded with work, therefore, more often the crown of the spirea is formed in the fall.

A shaping haircut can be moderate or dramatic. In the first case, the silhouette of the bush is simply slightly corrected, in the second, so many branches are cut off so that the culture takes the desired shape.

Rejuvenating pruning will be needed for a plant over 15 years old. From this age, biological aging begins, the bush gradually loses its attractiveness. Autumn pruning is performed 2-3 weeks before frost so that the wounds have time to heal.

Spirea - should I be pruned for the winter?

Spirea is an ornamental flowering shrub that belongs to the Rosaceae family and grows mainly in the northern hemisphere in a temperate climatic zone.

On the territory of Russia, there are up to 25 of its representatives. The plant attracts both amateur gardeners and professional landscape designers with its beauty and ease of care.

This article will tell you if you need to trim the spirea for the winter and at other times of the year.

Trimming the spirea is a necessary part of the care

There are several types of spirea pruning, each of which has its own purpose. The three main ones are rejuvenating, stimulating and aesthetic (giving a bush or hedge the desired shape).

Spirea responds very well to pruning, so it should be done regularly. Regardless of the variety and flowering time, "trimmed" plants give visible growth and bloom more luxuriantly. If in July you cut off the shoots that have already bloomed, then the bush can please with secondary flowering in early autumn.

Neglect of care will lead to sloppiness and unpresentable appearance of the spirea. In addition, the overgrown bush becomes weak, new buds are almost not formed on it. Therefore, the benefits, and even the need for circumcision, are obvious:

• the bush becomes lush;
• there are more flowers on it;
• you can give the plant the desired shape;
• a thinned bush receives more light;
• the risk of disease and pest attacks is markedly reduced.

Experts say that it is almost impossible to spoil the plant by pruning, so you should not be afraid to do it even for novice amateurs.



Pruning spirea in autumn

It is relevant for adult plants that have reached the age of three to five years. Pruning is done a couple of weeks before the onset of frost - during this time, the wounds will dry out and tighten, and the plant will gain strength to survive the winter.

The stimulation operation is performed with a pruner. Old unhealthy branches are cut almost to the root. On the remaining shoots, five buds are left. In the spring, the plant will drive out young growth. In addition to the stimulus for growth, the crown is thinned out in this way.

Bushes, "stepping over" the seven-year mark, rejuvenate in the fall. To do this, all shoots are cut to 30 cm from the ground. In the spring, young branches will begin to grow, and the spirea will quickly restore its volume and beauty. In addition to rejuvenation, a cosmetic effect is also achieved - a plant that is not cut on time loses its attractiveness, because old branches begin to bend to the ground and spoil the whole view.

Pruning spirea Wangutta

Pruning time also depends on the flowering time of the spirea. The Vangutta variety belongs to early flowering varieties, therefore it is recommended to cut it immediately after the flowers shedding. In this case, weak and intertwined branches are cut out.

The autumn procedure is mandatory. It consists in the complete (at the root) removal of the fourth or fifth part of all shoots. Spring pruning is also necessary for her, if the winter was cold and the plant was frozen over.

Then, before the formation of leaves, the dead ends of the branches are removed.

Japanese spirea

Pruning Japanese Spirea

The flowering period of this species of spirea falls in the summer. In the first year, flowers are formed on growing shoots, the next year, lateral shoots bloom, and the tops of the old ones dry. Therefore, after three years, the top of the old branches is cut off so that the bush does not lose its shape and does not begin to lean to the ground.

Since the plant blooms late, it is recommended to cut it at the beginning of the season. Pruning is done up to the buds. Weak shoots are removed. To rejuvenate the bush, it must be cut very shortly from time to time. To prevent the plant from being depleted, pruning is done as the flowers die off.

Pruning spirea in spring

Spring pruning of spirea is in the nature of prevention and recovery. First of all, the dead, as well as the twigs that have dried up during the winter are cut off.

The purpose of the procedure is, among other things, the formation of the crown, although the hedge is recommended to be refined in the fall in the second year after planting. The main rule of spring manipulation: pruning is done before the formation of leaves.

In addition, bushes that bloom in spring are pruned as individual branches finish flowering.

For all its unpretentiousness, spirea, like any other garden plant, requires care. The complex process includes feeding, watering, mulching, weeding and, without fail, spring and autumn pruning. The work put into it will lead to an excellent result - the skillful hands of the gardener will give the desired shape, and the shrub will delight you with an elegant flowering.

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Spirea pruning

Now let's talk about pruning, which differs for summer-flowering and spring-flowering spirits, since inflorescences in these groups are formed on shoots of different years.

Pruning Spring Blooming Spire

1. In spirits blooming in May and early June, flower buds are evenly laid along the entire length of the shoots, but they bloom only the next year. Therefore, pruning such spirits comes down to shortening frozen and dried shoots. It is usually held annually in early spring (March to April).
2. Adult old branches and thin shoots are harvested once every two years in the spring.
3. Also, such bushes carry out anti-aging pruning. For this, old branches (over 7 years old) are cut out completely.

Pruning summer blooming spirits

In plants that bloom in July-August, inflorescences are formed at the ends of the shoots of this year. The next year, these inflorescences dry out, and new flowers form again on the young shoots.

1. Shrubs of this group are pruned in early spring, at the very beginning of the appearance of leaves. Each well-developed branch is shortened to powerful buds, and small and too thin shoots are cut out completely.
2. After the fourth year of cultivation, it is advisable to prune the bushes at a height of 25-30 cm.

When is it better to cut spirea - in spring or autumn

Spiraea is popularly called a bride

In order for such a sign to correspond to reality, it is important to form the bushes correctly and in the right time. Many florists and professional designers love the plant for its abundant and long flowering, airiness and tenderness that it brings to the urban and garden landscape.

You have already traced what to do with spirea in the fall. Is it possible to cut it in the spring? Undoubtedly! In April, summer-flowering varieties of this ornamental plant are cut off. To form a beautiful bush in the spring, do the following steps:

• In the first year after planting, the shoots are shortened by half. The branches are pruned to a bud, which is directed outward.
• After flowering, the inflorescences are cut off, thus stimulating the growth of lateral shoots. The plant blooms continuously.
• In the second year, again in April, the shoots are cut to half the length, and in the summer, wilted inflorescences are removed.
• In the third year, they do the same procedure, only in the spring they also remove old shoots to the ground.

The ancient Greeks admired the grace and refinement of the thin curving branches of the spirea. Breeders have bred many types of their favorite decorative culture. Among them are weeping, hemispherical, pyramidal, creeping, dwarf spireas. Most of them tolerate winter frosts well. In severe winters, some species may freeze slightly, then these branches are pruned in the spring. For varieties that are very afraid of frost, the tops of the branches are tied into a bunch, bent to the ground and covered with dry leaves. Take care of this unpretentious plant in spring and autumn, and it will delight you with delicate flower clouds.

Spirea. Care

Despite all their external attractiveness, spireas are quite unpretentious and grow and bloom well under the most ordinary conditions - loose fertile soil, good illumination, no stagnant water, 3-time fertilizing per season with a complex of mineral fertilizers and a winter shelter for young specimens or for especially delicate varieties. The only subtlety when growing spirea is proper pruning.

• Spring-flowering spireas practically do not need pruning, with the exception of sanitary, when old (over 5 years old) shoots, dry and broken branches, shoots frozen over the winter are removed. Pruning is carried out immediately after flowering, but it is not necessary to shorten the faded shoots, as this will cause increased growth of lateral branches, at the ends of which the inflorescences will be small and expressionless. And most importantly, the shape of the bush will be disturbed and the effect of drooping flowering branches to the very ground will be spoiled.
• Summer-flowering spireas are pruned in early spring, starting from the fourth year of life and at a height of 20-30 cm from the ground. If this is not done, then gradually the bush will lose its shape, as the old branches begin to deviate from the center of the bush, laying on the ground. And if you cut only at the tops, then the plant will give thinned young shoots with small unattractive inflorescences. If, nevertheless, there is a fear of short pruning, then as an experiment, you can trim exactly half of the bush, and leave the other half alone - and in the middle of summer it will be possible to compare the results.

Shrub propagation methods

Consider how spirea multiplies, and which method is most appropriate, depending on the circumstances.

Reproduction by division

This method works well for young plants.
To do this, they dig out a bush and divide it with a pruner into several parts. Each part should have 2-3 shoots. Shorten the roots slightly, put the plant in the hole, spread the roots to the sides and cover with soil. After planting the plant, further caring for the Japanese spirea is not laborious. Watering should be done moderately before rooting.

This method is used from the second half of June to September-October. Annual shoots are cut, cut into cuttings (5-6 leaves each) and planted in a mixture of river sand and peat (1: 1). The bottom leaf of the cutting is removed, and the rest are cut in half.

Important!
The ends of the cuttings must be treated with a rooting stimulant ("Kornevin", "Root", etc.)

The cuttings are covered with glass or foil. For a positive result, it is necessary to water once every 4 days and sprinkle the shoots.
Reproduction of spirea by cuttings in autumn is characterized by the fact that autumn cuttings are wrapped in fallen leaves, covered with a box and wait until spring.
For the winter, summer cuttings are also insulated with foliage, and in the spring they are planted in the ground.

Reproduction by layering

Reproduction by layering refers to a less laborious method. To do this, in early spring, before the foliage blooms, it is necessary to tilt the lower branches of the plant and sprinkle it with earth in a horizontal position.

Did you know?
The inclined position of the cutting stimulates the growth of the roots, while the vertical position stimulates the growth of the tip.

The attached branches must be watered throughout the season, and roots will appear on them by autumn. As a result, we get an independent plant bush, which can be transplanted in the spring to the right place.

Since Japanese spiraea belongs to hybrids, its seeds do not retain varietal qualities, therefore, seed propagation is inappropriate.
This method can be used for non-hybrid varieties. Seeds are sown in the spring in a special box. Seedlings should appear in 10 days. Landing in open ground is carried out after 3 months. This method is used if it is necessary to obtain a large number of spirits of the same type.

Autumn pruning methods for early flowering and late flowering varieties of spirea

Spirea bushes wide used in decoration
garden plots. This plant is unpretentious, has a high decorative effect, reacts to pruning by increasing flowering and growth. With the correct selection of varieties, spireas achieve continuous flowering, lasting up to 100 days.

The shrub is planted in single plantings and as a hedge. Spirea pruning is carried out throughout the growing season. In solo plantings, trimming is achieved to enhance decorativeness. For this, the bush is thinned out, achieving abundant flowering, foliage. create by removing a small part of the internal shoots, cutting the shrub in height, giving it the desired shape.

Early flowering spireas bloom with white flowers that form on last year's shoots. Flower buds are distributed along the entire length of the shoot. Early flowering varieties include:

1. spirea Vagutta;
2. sharp-toothed;
3. oak-leaved;
4. medium;
5. nippon.

Flowering occurs in May - June. Pruning in single plantings involves removing weakened, intertwining shoots, forming the skeleton of a bush from strong, healthy branches. Spirea shrubs are distinguished by good tillering, fast growth. So that the bush does not lose its decorative effect, 1 / 4-1 / 5 of all shoots are removed annually in the fall, cutting them out at the soil level. This stimulates the growth of new shoots in the next year.

Faded shoots are removed immediately after flowering or at the beginning of autumn, leaving young, strong shoots. Every 2-3 years, the shrub is thinned out, twisted branches, thinned, weakened branches inside the bush are carefully removed. Once every 7-10 years, the spirea is well cut, removing all old branches, leaving only 5-7 young branches.

Planting spirea

Boarding time

The best time to plant a spirea is September. Favorable weather is cloudy, or even better, rainy when the soil is well saturated with moisture.

Soil and size of planting holes

Spireas grow best
and develop on loose, air-permeable soils with a lot of humus. Of course, plants will grow on poor soils, but in this case they will not be able to show all their beauty.

The size of the planting holes
is defined as follows:

• If the soil on your site is exactly what the spirea likes, the planting pits should be 25-30% larger than its root system and 40-50 cm deep.
• If the land in place for growing is not entirely suitable, then it is advisable to dig a hole three times larger than the root system of the seedling. Both in width and depth.

The mixture with which the pit will be filled
, are made up of sand (river), peat and turf or leaf land. Moreover, the land is taken in two parts, but sand and peat one by one.

Distance between planting pits
depends on the placement of the spirits and the flowering time:

• Summer flowering spireas, when planted in a hedge, are planted at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other, when arranged in several rows, the distance between rows is 30-40 cm.In a group planting, they maintain a distance of 50-70 cm, sometimes up to 1 m.
• Spring flowering spireas plant more freely. In hedges at a distance of 70 cm - 1 m, in group plantings - 1-1.5 m.
  For group planting, holes are dug at a distance of 50-70 cm.

Landing technology

Before planting, soil is first poured onto the bottom of the pit, and then a seedling is installed, all the roots must be straightened out, and only then everything is carefully covered with an earthen mixture.

The bush is planted so that the root collar (the junction of the trunk and roots) is located at ground level.

Before planting, the root system must be examined, broken and dried roots cut off.

If you are planting a seedling with a clod of earth, then after planting, good watering is carried out.

And if the root system is bare (without soil), then it is placed for 12 or 24 hours in a solution of water and a root formation stimulator. It can be heteroauxin, succinic acid, indoleacetic acid and other various preparations that can be purchased at any garden or flower center. Plants treated in this way are immediately planted in a permanent growing area.