Lesson 7. pruning roses

Types of climbing roses: do you need pruning

The rose is considered the queen of the garden, and she got this status for a reason. Rose bushes are indispensable in the decorative landscaping of the garden area, and individual flowers can revive and brighten any composition of a flower garden or flower bed. They can be used to create a stunning hedge or Winter Garden, as well as decorate the facade of a building in any style.

Climbing roses are ornamental plants of an artisanal type with long shoots that can be whip-like, creeping and arched. Unlike ordinary spray roses, this type of plant needs a special support, which their branches quickly entwine.

Features of climbing roses:

the ability to cover large areas of the garden due to long, growing shoots;
their "creep", similar to lianas, is successfully used to decorate gazebos, verandas, terraces, arches and garden swings, as well as for vertical gardening of fences and walls of houses;
they are distinguished by lush flowering (occurs in the second year, it can be single and double) and large flowers;
unpretentious in care and easy to grow;
the flower can be either single or as part of an inflorescence-brush;
flowers are formed, as a rule, along the entire length of the branch, and they bloom especially magnificently in the middle and at the top of the shoot;
differ in endurance and "vitality";
are capable of "self-rejuvenation" in the annual release of new young shoots.

Despite the similarity of all varieties of climbing roses to each other, there is a certain classification of them, based on which each grower already chooses plants for his garden plot.

By the nature of flowering, plants can be divided into the following groups:

They bloom once in 1 season - most often, a single flowering occurs until the middle of the summer period and is observed on the lateral shoots of last year at the roots (from 6 to 10 shoots: one half of which are annual branches for replacement, and the other half are biennial, they bloom in the current year ). These branches must be completely removed in preparing the shrub for winter, because in the spring new shoots will appear in their place (from 2 to 3 pieces). Varieties: Dorothy Perkins, Exelza;
Flowers can appear on the shoots again in 1 season - these are more complex plants in their structure. In the first year of flowering does not occur, it begins from the second year of planting and weakens only by the fifth year of the life of the bush. This type of roses does not require annual pruning (removal down to the base is most often necessary only in the 4th year of life), branches are removed mainly in the spring, while in the bush there should be from 3 to 7 shoots showing flowering annually. Varieties: Pink, Chaplins, Alberti.

The main varieties differ in the form of shrub growth:

Climber or Climber - roses of repeated flowering. The branches are tough and thick, capable of increasing only width and volume, so they are erect and rigid. The flowers have a richer aroma, and are also distinguished by increased resistance to various kinds of diseases (for example, powdery mildew). Abundant flowering, inflorescence similar in shape to hybrid tea roses. The most popular varieties are: Rosanna, Pierre de Ronsard, Pink Cloud, Elf;
Rambler (Rambler) - refer to single-flowering roses (June-July), capable of blooming on last year's shoots. These are roses with long and flexible creeping branches that can reach 15 meters in length, curl up into rings and take the shape of any object. The stems need support. The peculiarity of this species is its resistance to frost.Famous varieties include: Bobby James, Ghistiane de Felidonde, Excelsa, Paul Noel.

Among some gardeners, there is an opinion that it is climbing roses that do not need autumn pruning at all. However, this is not at all the case: the thicker the flowers, the less light falls on the bush. That is why it is necessary to thin out the shrub in order to increase the flowering period and exclude any diseases.

Competent pruning of climbing roses in the fall with tips for beginners and seasoned gardeners is presented in the video below.

Features of pruning climbing roses

Pruning a rose

A climbing rose, the pruning of which is included in the obligatory shrub care program, will quickly weaken without this procedure and become an easy prey for diseases and pests. Such shrubs form few flowers, become not an ornament, but a disaster for a flower bed.

Is it necessary to prune

Regular manipulations should take place at least twice a year. This approach will help to form a beautiful appearance, improve winter hardiness, increase the duration and abundance of flowering.

Important! Ignoring an important procedure will lead to a gradual wildness of the culture, its transformation into a rose hip. The plant will become an easy prey for parasitic insects and diseases, lose its attractiveness and eventually die

General information about the procedure

Bend down the shoots of climbing roses

For the winter, the stems of climbing roses must be transferred to a horizontal position. Even if in recent years they have wintered vertically, without shelter, you still run the risk of leaving them on a support.

If the shoots are thick, chances are they will break. Such plants bend down gradually, over several weeks. Each week, lower the shoot lower and lower, fixing it until it touches the ground.

Even without further cover, the likelihood that the rose will winter well under the snow is much higher than in the freezing cold and harsh February sun.

Do not place shoots on bare ground. When the snow melts, the plant can rot. Use wood planks or a piece of styrofoam as an interlayer.

Shelter roses for the winter in the Urals

Shelter of roses in the fall in the Urals can be carried out at the end of October, when the air temperature is set at around -5 degrees. It is good if dry snow falls by this time - its natural protection slows down the cooling of the soil. But we don't have to rely on nature, so it's better to cover the roses after all. In mid-October, cut the bushes to the height of the shelter, remove unripe shoots and leaves from them, and remove debris and plant debris from the trunk circle.

Sometimes rodents settle under the shelter, damaging the bark in the lower part of the shoots, so it would be good to spread poisoned baits under the bushes: the sawdust is impregnated with a solution of creolin at the rate of 1 tablespoon of the drug in a bucket of water and laid out under the bushes. The bush is covered with peat or dry earth at a third of the height, and the upper part is tied with spruce branches.

For single short-cut bushes, wooden boxes are used as a shelter, which are covered with a film on top, pressing its edges with boards, bricks or sprinkling with earth so that a gust of wind does not tear off the polyethylene. However, do not press down on the film completely; leave small vents in a few places for ventilation.

If a cold winter is expected, make a hut over the bush of boards or plywood sheets, and cover it with plastic wrap on top. The height of the air-dry shelter must be such that its "ceiling" is 10 cm above the bush. In such a house, roses do not freeze and do not rot.

How to prune different varieties of roses

The abundant blooming of roses is provided by different pruning methods, which differ depending on the plant variety.

How to prune a climbing rose for the winter

Many gardeners have a question: is it necessary to cut the shoots of climbing roses before sheltering them for the winter?

Climbing roses can be divided into 2 groups: blooming once and blooming again.For each group, the methods for shortening the stems are different. In climbing plants, 3-4 replacement shoots are left in autumn, the faded and dry stems are cut off. In large-flowered plants, the stems are shortened by 1/3. Further, the sections are treated with pitch or ash.

Before removing the roses from the support, the ground is covered with spruce branches or a wooden shield is placed on it, roses are placed on the substrate and covered with spruce branches, roofing material on top, covered with earth or sand.

Attention! In cases with climbing varieties, light pruning is not used due to the threat of death of the bush.

How to prune a floribunda rose

Rose varieties floribunda received as a result of multiple crosses of different varieties of roses. They are bushes of various sizes from large to compact. They bloom with simple, semi-double, double flowers. For inexperienced gardeners, floribundas are recommended for creating a hedge that will delight with flowering for a long time.

For floribunda roses, pruning is essential for rejuvenation. Strong and moderate shortening of the plant is based on the ability of this group to quickly recover and the ability to eject shoots with peduncles from the base of the bush. But such a cardinal haircut is more suitable for spring work, and in the fall, all diseased, dry, unripe stems are removed, leaving a few, the strongest, and pruned at a height of about 50 cm. Light shortening of branches is not suitable for these varieties.

How to prune ground cover varieties

Popularly called carpet roses for their ability to form a floral carpet. They are widely used in the creation of landscape design elements. They can be grown without pruning, but pruning groundcover roses in the fall will increase flowering next season and give the bush a more decorative shape. Instructions explaining step by step all the steps:

the cut is made at an angle of 45 degrees, 0.5-1 cm above the kidney;
the kidney should be from the outside, the cut goes from it, and not to it;
with a sharp pruner, cut out unripe, dried up and diseased branches;
strong stems are shortened by 15-20 cm.

Wounds are treated with a disinfectant.

How to prune park bush roses

Park bush roses are a decoration of any park or garden. They grow up to 1.5 m in height, have a long, for a month, flowering. In autumn, leaves are removed from the bushes and under them. In small forms of bush roses, pruning is done by 10 cm, removing the inflorescences, in tall bushes, pruning is done by 30 cm.

Attention! If a park rose has released a bud, it must not be cut, but broken without tearing. In this case, both the formation of buds and the growth of new shoots will stop.

How to prune hybrid tea varieties

Such varieties appeared as a result of selection in the middle of the 19th century. They are appreciated by gardeners for the variety of colors, flower sizes and resistance to temperature extremes. These varieties are suitable for cutting, as they form one flower per stem. Pruning hybrid tea roses for the winter is done in order to facilitate shelter for the cold period. Shoot shortening is moderate or gentle, as the main trimming will be done in the spring while removing frozen and damaged stems.

How to prune polyanthus roses

These species appeared as a result of selective selection. Their parents: Chinese tea rose and Japanese dwarf. Polyanthus roses are short shrubs about 50-70 cm in height. They are used as a border decoration of flower beds and creating flower group compositions. Prune the branches of polyanthus roses as follows:

remove diseased and young shoots;
in varieties with small flowers, for the winter they leave 2-3 buds on strong stems and 1-2 on weak ones;
in flowers with large flowers, the ripened shoots of this year are removed by 1/3 part, in older ones they are lightly pruned.

How to prune miniature roses

These groups of roses need pruning the least.Before leaving for the winter at the bushes, diseased, unripe branches, flowers and dried inflorescences are removed.

How to prune standard roses

Standard roses are obtained as a result of grafting on a rose hip. Hybrid tea, floribunda, climbing and ground cover are used as grafting material. In the first year of planting in the fall, the flowering branches are pruned near the tree, removing green young shoots. In subsequent years, the haircut is done according to the pruning of the grafted variety.

Preparing a climbing rose for winter

The climbing rose has long shoots, which are covered with sharp thorns along the entire length - this condition complicates the process of sheltering the plant for the winter, therefore they need to be pruned. A mistake made by novice growers is root pruning. This action results in no flowering for the next year. The bush will be forced to build up new shoots and gain strength. The loss of the entire above-ground mass is destructive for the plant, therefore, the possibility of its death cannot be ruled out. Since roses are often attacked by a fungus, before covering it must be treated with a fungicide; a solution of copper sulfate is suitable.

Help the shoots ripen

The climbing rose looks amazing during the flowering period, therefore inexperienced growers try to prolong it, while making a dangerous mistake. If the rose keeps flowers until the frost itself, it may not survive the winter, therefore feeding with nitrogen-containing fertilizers should be stopped already in August.

An early refusal to feed will stop the growth of young shoots - they will not ripen before frost and will die regardless of the shelter. Death implies rotting of young branches, and then the fungal infection spreads throughout the shrub.

Advice! In the period from mid-August to mid-October, the queen of flowers should be fed with a fertilizer containing superphosphate, potassium sulfate and boric acid. The resulting mixture of low concentration can be sprayed on roses one week after shaping.

There is no need to loosen and dig up the ground between plantings - a common cause of root damage and the awakening of dormant buds under the ground.

Shelter terms for the winter

The main problem is that growers try to cover the plant before the onset of frost, believing that the rose does not tolerate frost. This is a mistake, and all varieties can withstand night temperatures down to -5 degrees, and the most common, non-collectible varieties up to -10.

A slight frost is a necessary element of the process of hardening a plant, so you should not rush to build a shelter for your favorite front garden. The recommended timing of shelter can vary significantly depending on the region of planting, for example, in the middle lane, you need to build a shelter by the end of October, while in the Urals, the rose must be sent into hibernation at the end of September.

Removing debris and strengthening immunity

At the beginning of September, the space under the shrubs must be cleared of debris and weeds, because in winter they will become a nutrient substrate for the development of fungal spores. To increase immunity, the plant must be sprayed with a fungicide. Gardeners prefer Fitosporin. After the first treatment and cleaning the soil from litter, the plant is removed from the supports and laid on the ground.

It is difficult to remove an adult bush from a support, therefore you should not do it alone

It is important to carefully remove all lashes without damaging them. In the place of plant injuries, you need to cut

Hilling

It is better to start the hilling process by covering the root collar - a simple technique will help protect the bush from adverse conditions. For hilling, take dry soil. To cover the roots of a young bush, you will need about 1 bucket of earth, an overgrown plant needs 2-4 buckets. The earth is poured into the center of the bush in the form of a cone.

Good to know! For hilling, well, you need to use peat, humus or sawdust. They strongly absorb moisture, which can lead to root rot.

Rules for choosing autumn fertilizers for roses

During the preparation of garden roses for winter, they are no longer fed with nitrogen complexes, which stimulate the formation and growth of shoots. As a rule, from August, the plant is transferred to phosphorus-potassium fertilizing.

Mr. Lincoln demonstrates frost damage, while the tougher variegated Esther Geldenhays, Vera Jones and Lady are blemish-free. Long cold winters followed by more rain and floods postponed flowering. Judging by the draw dates in Europe, from Paris, Geneva and Lyon, it was too early to do the justice of the rose, although it was clear that they would inevitably burst into the flower, which they did a week after the heat wave.

Shelter for the winter

A lot of investment has flown into the restoration of this rosary recently with new rose plantings all over the place, quaint paths and restaurants. Centennial roses could still be found at the edges of pink beds or trees. Celebrating the opening was real fun. Attending this opening was dedicated to our program for the tour, which did not materialize. Entertainment at the centenary celebrations of the Forst Rosary.

Recipe for the first fall makeup for roses

Superphosphate - 25 g;

Boric acid - 2.5 g;

Potassium sulfate - 10 g;

Water - 10 liters.

The resulting solution is enough to carry out a full feeding of rose bushes on an area of 4 sq.... meters.

At the beginning of September, a second make-up is carried out with the following solution:

Superphosphate - 15 g;

Another very interesting point is the huge difference in the many varieties that are the best performers in Europe - which just haven't formed in our own trials over the past two decades. This is, of course, the opposite - with a few exceptions. Significant growth has been observed since planting this rose in our trial plots in May.

It is winter time for pruning, and for most parts of the country it doesn't matter if you do it right now or at the end of the month. By then, these flowers will be finished and the roses will benefit from a longer period of active leaf retention. Pruning is an old job to get quality fruit as well as quality flowers and this is what we really want and expect. Much of this depends, of course, on the pruning, or rather the cutting of the flowers and the courtship that has been carried out throughout the year.

Potassium monophosphate - 15 g;

Water - 10 liters.

The resulting solution can be used for watering the rose garden or foliar top dressing, but for the last procedure, the concentration must be reduced by three times.

Also, good results are obtained by the introduction of special granular fertilizers for autumn use.

How to prune roses for the winter

Both mature and newly planted bushes are pruned: it is necessary to remove all dry, affected, old and weak stems, cut off flowers and buds, completely remove foliage from the branches. Leave the 3-5 most developed shoots on the bush, as equidistant as possible from each other, and cut out the rest. All shoots that did not have time to ripen are also subject to indispensable removal, since in winter, under cover, they simply will simply begin to rot and can destroy the entire bush. When pruning, follow these rules:

It is necessary to choose a sunny, windless day for this procedure;
Thick stems older than three years with dried bark are best cut with a hacksaw;
Cuts and cuts must be oblique so that water flows from them without stagnating;
The cut must pass over the swollen, but not germinated bud at a distance of half a centimeter from it;
Pruning is done on an external bud, then the growing shoots will not intersect, and light and air will penetrate into the middle of the bush;

The stems are shortened to a white core.

It is also important to know how long to cut the shoots of roses, taking into account the specifics of the species. There are three types of shoot pruning:

Long cut;
The shoot is shortened slightly, leaving at least 9-10 buds on it;
Medium pruning, in which the shoot is cut at a height of 35 cm from the surface of the site, leaving 5 buds on it;

Short pruning, which is necessary only in extreme cases, because the shoots are removed almost to the base, leaving no more than two buds on them.

Polyanthus, hybrid tea roses and floribunda form up to four to five lower developed buds. Cascading standard roses are cut short only in the first year, leaving shoots 15 cm long, and in subsequent years only faded shoots are cut off, and young shoots are slightly shortened. Roses of grandiflora, like remontant varieties, are cut, leaving 5 buds on the shoots. Shoots of Old English and shrub varieties of roses are shortened by three-quarters or two-thirds. Park roses, the most winter-hardy of all types, are subjected to only sanitary pruning, removing old, affected and weak branches, and young strong shoots are only slightly shortened.

After pruning, remove all leaves from the shoots by wearing a glove and running your hand up and down the shoots to avoid damaging the buds.

How to properly prune a rose bush in the winter: advice from skilled florists

Experts advise pruning roses by choosing a moderately sunny and quiet day in the third decade of autumn. Be sure to test the pruning shears for sharpness and sanitize your tools to avoid damaging or infecting your roses.

You need to cut the stem at an angle so that moisture does not linger on it. It is necessary to make a cut, stepping back from the outer kidney 1 cm up

Correctly cut roses in the fall wake up earlier in the spring, give large buds, and bloom long and thickly all summer

Pruning roses in winter consists of the following steps:

Identify up to 5 strong and healthy pink stems, and cut the rest with pruning shears. A healthy shoot should be from 1 cm in diameter and not have many lateral branches. Its color is deep dark green.
On strong shoots, mark up to 5 buds at the bottom and proceed with pruning. You need to cut off the stem quickly, without damaging the bark and without breaking out the middle of the shoot.
The upper kidney should be external. From it you need to step back 1 cm upward, and make a cut with an inclination inward. An internal slope is necessary so that moisture does not linger on the cut. The middle of the trunk should be fresh and white. If you see a brown cut, then the rose needs a shorter cut.

It is important to remember the principle of the rose feeding system, in which the length of the root should be commensurate with the length of the aerial part. Therefore, radical pruning is permissible only when urgently needed.
Trim all the selected stems and coat all the cuts with a special solution or garden varnish

This will prevent germs from entering the stem.
Clean the cuttings and debris around the shrub and surrounding area so that they do not start to rot, infecting roots and healthy branches. Now your rose is properly pruned for winter, and you can start hilling it.

Tools for pruning roses must be well sharpened and disinfected so as not to infect the plant and damage the stem

You need to prune roses on a sunny, windless day. It's time for pruning - the end of October, when your rose bushes have faded and slowed down.

Caring for a rose is, although not easy, but very rewarding. Pruning in winter is a necessary measure for these elite flowers. You will see how quickly your rose buds will grow and release in the spring after the autumn pruning. Remember our tips and your rose bushes will shine with new fresh colors.

Types of pruning

In addition to the general rules on how to prune roses in the fall, there are 3 methods for shortening bushes:

In this state, in winter, roses can freeze, as the plant is weakened. And more often the radical type is used in regions with mild winters
, for example, in Ukraine.

Such pruning can be forced if the plant is severely damaged by the disease or the shoots die off.Stamp and frame roses need maximum shortening only in the first year. Then it is carried out according to the average scheme.

Combined pruning is also used, combining several types. This allows for continuous flowering.

Which method to choose

This largely depends on the varietal group of roses. Long pruning is suitable for bushes with large flowers such as:

Bengali;
Park, only small branches are removed from them, thickening the plantings, and healthy lignified shoots are left;
English, which are shortened by 2/4 or 3/4.

Often this method is applied to other varieties, achieving early flowering. But if you use it constantly, there is a risk that after a few years the rose bush will lose its shape and elongate, and the flowering itself will not be so lush.

Medium pruning is suitable for almost all types of roses, except curly, ground cover. This type, the most sparing before insulation for the winter, is used for:

Pernepianov;
Hybrid tea varieties;
Repair roses;
Grandiflora

Roses that bloom once are not pruned in the fall. Flowers and buds are removed from them, and unripe young shoots are pinched. Groundcover roses also do not need to be heavily pruned.
, remove only broken branches.

Pruning roses in the fall for beginner growers can cause some difficulties, and if in doubt how exactly to shorten the bush, it is better to choose the middle type.

Climbing roses

This variety should be pruned very carefully so that the bush does not freeze out in winter. The method depends on the variety group

Small-flowered varieties practically do not need it, their growing point is pinched.

Bushes with large flowers are shortened by no more than 1/3. This will renew the plant, form the direction of growth. In the southern regions, autumn pruning
practically do not carry out.

Shelter for the winter

Autumn pruning of roses and shelter for the winter are necessary measures for caring for them. After the bushes have been shortened, they are insulated. But the preparation itself begins in August. Plants are no longer fertilized with nitrogen compounds.

Then carry out podzimnye root dressing. Or mineral fertilizers are applied on the leaves. The soil around the bushes is treated with Bordeaux liquid, copper sulfate solution or nitrophene. You can sprinkle the soil with ash.

In large bushes, shoots are carefully bent to the ground and fixed with special hairpins. This should be done in dry weather at a plus temperature of 2–6 ° C, since the branches become brittle with a cold snap

Then they are covered with a film so that the rain does not wash away the solution from the shoots, and the roses are left in this form for about a month. At the beginning of December, they begin a capital shelter for the winter. There are several ways to insulate
:

Shelter made of roofing felts, spruce branches, sawdust, earth and loose peat. Roofing paper protects the plant from getting wet, peat with sawdust and earth creates thermal insulation;
Construction of boards between the rows. The bushes are covered with a film from above, sealing it from the ends. Soil or peat is poured into the space between the shields;
Rebar frame. Roofing material is placed on the frame, leaving it open at the ends until the onset of cold weather. Geotextiles can also be used.

The frame method is suitable for standard roses and floribunda varieties. They have fragile stems that cannot be bent to the ground.

When covering large areas, it is good to use geotextiles, lutrasil or spunbond, pulling them over the frame. These materials remove all the fumes that cause the plants to vomit. Spruce branches are also suitable for insulation.

To shelter climbing roses, they are removed from the supports.

Then it is folded up with a ring and carefully fixed. Then they are laid on a layer of spruce branches, covering them on top

If you use non-woven for them, you can leave them on the supports. Roll up the base of the bush by about 30 cm, and wrap it in several layers, just fix the lashes of the plant with ordinary clothespins. Plants that are planted in a group are easier to cover. Single landings require more thorough insulation.

Knowing how to properly prune roses in the fall and prepare them for winter, even a novice gardener will grow beautiful and strong bushes. And overwintered plants with good care will delight you with lush flowering.

What is a climbing rose

This species includes 3 groups of liana-like flowers:

curly roses with flexible green shoots and inflorescences of small double flowers - Rambler. Most ramblers only bloom on the shoots of the previous year. This group includes popular varieties such as Pierre de Ronsard, Flamentanz, Santana and Laguna;
hybrids of climbing and bush remontant varieties, having dense, woody over time shoots and large flowers, collected in a brush - Climber. Flowers appear on both last year's and current year's shoots. Representatives of this group are Kordes, Polka, Sympathy and Utersen Rosarium;
bush roses, as a result of mutation and the work of breeders, who have developed the ability to grow rapidly - Climbing. Among Russian gardeners, the most popular representatives of this group are Climing Peace, Aloha, Golden perfume, Elf.

Depending on the group to which the climbing rose belongs, the pattern and pruning time will be different for it.

Pruning climbing roses in spring

Pruning a climbing rose in spring is carried out in order to form a bush. Although plants from this group may not be cut off at all, in this case, after 2-3 years, it will be difficult to approach the overgrown bush and cover it for the winter. Therefore, in the spring, after removing the shelter and sanitary pruning, the climbing rose bush is thinned out, all the branches thickening it are removed and they try to shape it so that the shoots grow horizontally.

If you are new to rose growing and are afraid to ruin the bush when pruning, watch the video, which describes the whole procedure in detail: