Important nuances of spring pruning of fruit trees
Many novice gardeners who pick up a pruner for the first time make the same mistakes, and failure to meet deadlines is just one of them.
What is important to remember when starting the spring pruning of the garden? 1
Preparation of inventory. The tools you use for trimming must be sharpened and sanitized. Otherwise, you risk not only inflicting unnecessary injury on the tree, but also infecting the place of damage.
1. Preparation of inventory. The tools you use for trimming must be sharpened and sanitized. Otherwise, you risk not only causing unnecessary injury to the tree, but also infecting the place of damage.
For better sharpening, the tool can be pre-soaked for half an hour in salt water (1 tablespoon per 1 glass of water).
2. Pruning young trees. Excessive pruning of non-fertile trees should be avoided. The essence of the procedure should be to remove diseased, damaged, thickening the crown or competing with the skeletal branches of the shoots, as well as shortening annual growths to subordinate the branches to the central conductor.
3. Cutting technique. The shoots that you want to remove completely must be cut into a ring without leaving any stumps. In order not to break off the bark when cutting a thick branch, first cut from the bottom side, and only then completely cut the branch from above.
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Attention to the kidneys. Cut carefully so as not to accidentally hit the kidneys with the edge of the blade
When shortening to the bud, the pruner is brought in from the side of the adjacent branch, placing it at an angle of 45 degrees in the direction from the base to the top of the shoot. The cutting blade should be 1-2 mm below the base of the kidney, and the second blade should be 1-2 mm higher.
Bud pruning
How to form a bush
The formation of forsythia is required not only for the timely removal of old and diseased shoots. Another task of the procedure is to preserve the decorative appearance of the bush. Molding starts from 2 years of shoot growth. Superfluous shoots are monitored strictly, immediately cutting off the excess so that the stem does not twist. Avoid simultaneous pruning of many units at once, so as not to make the bush visually naked and not to weaken it before winter.
It is given a different shape: a cone, a ball, a parallelepiped. These are easily reproducible options that do not require a lot of imagination and effort. Which one is better to choose depends on the type of crown: weeping, hanging, normal, with a vertical orientation.
The plant is often used to create hedges. If this type of molding is planned, then the plant is not touched for 2-3 years. During this time, the shoots gain strength, the stem thickens, the shoots are intertwined. Pruning forsythia is carried out in the shape of a rectangle or trapezoid. A number of requirements are imposed on the hedge: it must be thick inside and strong, but let the light pass inside.
The task of how to form forsythia depends on the chosen option for the appearance of the bush. If the crown is natural, then you need to produce the main main part 1 time in 3 years and annual preventive.
To give the shape of a pyramid or trapezoid, you need to cut off the shoots in the second year according to the desired template. After the first pruning, the shape is corrected 2 times a year: in the spring the main part, in the fall slightly.
Shortening forsythia shoots
Formation of forcing into a ball is carried out in several ways. The first is to shorten all the shoots to the same length every year. The second is pruning the shoots according to the chosen shape.The method requires compliance with the geometry of the structure so that the bush does not look sloppy. It is not necessary to cut the stems to shape, you can simply bend the shoot.
Attention! Before you start shaping, you should study the information on how to trim forsythia. Otherwise, you can get a bare bush with poor lighting and dry shoots.
What are the features of pruning old and young apple trees in summer?
The most important thing in the actions when performing pruning work in the summer is the filigree work on creating the apple tree crown.
In July, old and decrepit apple trees undergo rejuvenating procedures, especially if the apple trees give birth to only small and tasteless apples, and the growth of shoots is less than 30 centimeters.
Then, branches and twigs with an angle of departure less than 45 degrees, vertically growing "tops", crisscrossing and broken branches are sawed off or cut off.
On all other branches, it is necessary to halve the year-on-year growth. Such actions are done every third summer.
If the apple tree is in its prime and is not so many years old, then they break out all the fattening shoots on the tree and pinch the ends of all other shoots at the ends of the branches.
It is good to pull out fatty green shoots before they become completely stiff, cutting them out with pruning shears without leaving a hemp.
If you are interested in how to prune an apple tree in the fall, then read about the technology for carrying out autumn pruning here, and about the timing here.
This completely prevents the appearance of fresh shoots, which would take away from the apple tree the nutrition necessary for "feeding" the apples.
And if the wounds from such pruning are small, then you do not need to use garden varnish to putty them.
If the tree is young, then its load factor is regulated by the harvest. In this case, it is necessary to remove the excess parts of the flowers, especially with the abundant flowering of the young tree.
They also constantly monitor the illumination inside the crown of young apple trees that have been bearing fruit for at least several years.
When is the best time to prune jasmine
The question of how to form a chubushnik is of interest to gardeners several times a year. The first procedure is carried out almost immediately after the transplant. They immediately indicate the form of growth of the bush, remove damaged and non-viable shoots, inspect for improper growth. Pruning is carried out to a level where 2-3 strong shoots remain without signs of damage.
It is recommended to rejuvenate the shoots either before the start of sap flow, or before wintering. It is optimal to thin out and form shoots after flowering, in summer.
It's important to know! The first pruning is carried out at any time of the year, in spring or autumn, depending on the time of planting. The procedure is carried out with a sharp instrument, a secateurs are enough
The cut is carried out at an angle of 45 degrees, the place is treated with garden varnish. Thanks to this, the risk of infection by fungi and other pests is locally excluded.
The procedure is carried out with a sharp instrument, a secateurs are enough. The cut is carried out at an angle of 45 degrees, the place is treated with garden pitch. Thanks to this, the risk of infection by fungi and other pests is locally excluded.
Do I need to cut the mock-orange in the spring
The first pruning of the chubushnik of the year is carried out in early spring. The optimal time is right after the snow melts, before the buds have swollen yet. Spring pruning is carried out in mid-March, but in terms of time it can be postponed to the flowering period. This procedure is called sanitary.
At this stage, shoots older than 10 years are removed, as well as those that thicken the bush. Thanks to this, the shoots obtained this year will bloom next year. When the plant is 2-3 years old, cut off all the shoots that can shade the crown.
In the spring, they also carry out sanitary pruning, removal all dead and dry shoots... If the stem is sick or partially dry, then it is cut to the level of a healthy (live) shoot.
On a note! The optimal place for cutting is at the leaf mouth, where the dormant buds are located.If you make an incision at the level of the upper leaf, under the flower buds, then the plant will not have time to bloom and will die off to the level of the next knee.
Noticing that the plant does not tolerate wintering well, the thinning of the stems should be carried out not in summer, but in spring. Then, until autumn, jasmine will have time to recuperate.
In the spring, the tops of the branches are not removed so as not to cross the flowering. If the owner believes that the bush is too tall, then the shortening should take place in the summer, after the active period.
Shrub pruning sequence
Summer pruning
Chubushnik blooms until mid-summer. Then the elements begin to fade gradually, which gives the bush a sloppy appearance. The question arises when the chubushnik has faded, what to do next?
After an active growing season, pruning is carried out in the summer in order to remove wilted flowers. This is necessary to preserve the decorative effect of the shrub. How to prune a mock orange after flowering? The procedure is not much different from the standard one. All faded elements are removed with a secateurs; in this case, it is not necessary to treat the cut points with an antiseptic.
Note! There is a pattern: the longer the shoot bloomed, the shorter it will grow in length. Every 6-7 years you need to eliminate it
In the summer, young shoots are removed at the base of the bush, but side shoots are always left.
During this period, a second sanitization is done. Don't forget about formative pruning. A similar trimming of the bush is carried out throughout the year.
Autumn pruning
In autumn, the plant falls into a dormant period. It is not forbidden to cut off shoots at this time. Before winter, the procedure has other goals:
- rejuvenating the bush;
- thinning the crown;
- health improvement;
- shaping.
Which branches are to be cut
The more the bush is, the more old shoots it contains. Over the years, the number of flowers decreases, the shoots stick out in different directions, spoil the external properties of the bush. The sprouts formed over the summer are left, only if necessary, remove the excess length. Old shoots are cut off almost everything, leaving 3-4. The next year, when new shoots are formed, the remaining old ones are cut out.
The central part of the shrub often lacks light. Because of this, garden jasmine begins to form fewer buds.
It's important to know! If a plant consists of a large number of large and small shoots, then all the nutrients that it receives throughout the year are spent on their growth. Trace elements are not enough for abundant flowering
Garden jasmine grows green mass unevenly. Therefore, it is necessary to promptly remove shoots that are densely formed on one side. An autumn haircut must be carried out before the thermometer drops to 2-4 ℃ above zero so that the stem does not have time to freeze.
Pruning apricot in spring
The scheme for pruning apricots in spring is slightly different from the scheme for pruning peaches in spring.
Immediately after planting, the central conductor is cut to a height of about 50-75 cm and all small lateral shoots are removed on the ring. The next year 2-3 skeletal branches are selected on the tree and shortened to 20-25 cm.
Competing shoots are removed on the ring. At the same time, the central conductor is cut so that it is 10-15 cm higher than the lateral branches.
In the third year of life, it is necessary to carry out spring pruning so that 3-5 skeletal branches remain in the lower tier, located at an angle of 45-60 degrees with respect to the central conductor. They are shortened to 60 cm so that new branches of the second order are "laid" at this level. The rest of the shoots are cut into a ring. The center conductor should be 25 cm longer than the skeletal branches.
Shoots that are located at a more obtuse angle are shortened slightly less.
In the following years of the tree's life, sanitary pruning is carried out in the spring: the dried branches that have suffered from frost are cut off, the shoots growing inward are removed on the ring.The optimal maximum height of the apricot tree is 2-2.2 m, therefore, when pruning, they try to transfer growth to lateral shoots.
Watch the video on how to do it right:
How to cut apple trees of different ages correctly?
Having decided to prune a young apple tree, the gardener aims to lay a good foundation for its further development. An old fruit tree is pruned to enhance fruiting, remove crown defects, and save vitality for further growth. Most of the work associated with pruning adult apple trees is aimed at getting rid of diseases and pests.
Although the methods and types of work for pruning young and adult trees are the same, the work technology is different. Let's consider further how to prune an apple tree by year.
Annual apple tree
The gardener at this stage has two tasks: to restrain the growth of the central shoot so that the skeletal side branches develop well, and to form a stem. Formative pruning of young apple trees should begin one year after planting.
At the age of one year, the seedling consists of a trunk and 2 - 3 branches. If the central trunk is cut at a height of 0.8 - 1 meter, the growth of lateral shoots will increase. Long skeletal branches should be shortened. Each of them should be 16-20 cm shorter than the height of the trunk, have from three to five buds.
To form the correct stem, shoots that grow on a seedling at a distance of 40-50 cm from the ground must be removed. Branches that have an angle of up to 60 degrees at the point of growth will not be able to form a good backbone on their own. You can deal with them in two ways: remove or try to give them a horizontal position.
Biennial apple tree
If you are wondering how to prune a 2-year apple tree, then you should know that pruning helps to properly lay the tiers of skeletal branches.
Crown shape - any, except for cupped, suggests the presence of two to five large branches on each tier. The interval between the formed levels is approximately 40 - 60 cm and depends on the expected height of the tree.
Branches of each level should be located at approximately equal distance from each other relative to the circumference of the level. For a two-year-old seedling, the skeletal branches are shortened.
If a decision is made to form an apple tree in the form of a bowl, then in the second year of life, the central trunk of the seedling is completely removed. The cut is made over the first fork of the branches.
In the absence of a center, its role will be taken over by the side branches. An apple tree will form, consisting of 2-4 trunks, depending on the number of skeletal branches on the first tier.
Until the age of five, the crown continues to form.
Adult apple tree
From the age of five, rejuvenating is the main pruning that is carried out on fruit trees. Before starting it, they make sanitary pruning. When the apple tree is cleaned, they begin to rejuvenate:
- Cut off all old branches that are no longer capable of producing apples of varietal size and quality;
- Part of the tops is cut out;
- Crossed branches are cut onto the ring;
- All branches directed inside the crown and downward are removed;
- The root and shoots growing at the trunk are destroyed;
The last stage of anti-aging procedures is the shortening of the trunk. Tall trees can be pruned up to 3.5 - 2.5 meters without damaging the intensity of fruiting. Removing the top opens access to the inside of the crown for light, contributes to an increase in the quality of fruits and their quantity.
Important! If the apple tree is more than eight years old, you cannot do anti-aging pruning at one time. Losing a large amount of vegetative mass at the same time is a big stress for the old tree
It is better to spread the work over several years.
The pruning of apple trees on dwarf and columnar rootstocks has its own characteristics.
Planting and care in the open field
When choosing a site for planting, you need to choose areas that are well lit. Forsythia loves light, it will be uncomfortable in shaded areas.At the same time, the plant does not like winds, so the site must be protected from drafts.
The best time to plant a shrub is early autumn (before the first frost) or spring. He loves the following types of soil:
- light loam;
- calcareous, slightly alkaline dry soils.
The plant does not like acidic soils. If there is such a soil on the site, the soil can be mixed with wood ash, since you have decided that forsythia should grow in your garden. Planting and leaving (the photo will best demonstrate how this is done) is generally not difficult.
A hole for a bush should be dug 50x50x60 cm in size. If you plan to plant several specimens, then the distance between the holes should be at least 70 cm, and even better - 1.5-2 m. crushed stone or broken brick), pour 10 cm of sand, add 200 g of wood ash and a mixture consisting of 2 parts of leaf earth and 1 part of peat. After the plant is planted, the ground around it needs to be properly compacted. When planting in spring, be sure to mulch the soil with dry leaves.
It is necessary to water the bush in moderation, even with a severe drought, it costs 2-3 liters of water per week. If there is enough rainfall, no additional watering is needed - forsythia prefers underfilling rather than overflowing.
It is required to fertilize it three times a season according to the following scheme:
- in early spring (before flowering) - manure, which needs to be mulched around the trunk, and abundant watering;
- April - mineral fertilizer;
- after flowering - "Kemira-lux".
Shrub propagation
- seed;
- vegetative.
Seed propagation is a less preferred method due to the not too high germination of forsythia seeds. The process of germinating and growing seedlings from seeds is quite time consuming. In addition, you will have to wait a long time for the young growth to achieve good growth and get stronger. Therefore, when asked how to propagate forsythia, it is better to choose a vegetative method - simpler and more productive in gardening. In turn, this method is divided into three types:
- root suckers;
- dividing the bush;
- layering;
- by cuttings.
A convenient and successful method to propagate a plant such as forsythia is by cuttings. To do this, branches 15 cm long are cut in June, the lower leaves are removed from them, the cuttings are treated with root formation stimulants - an epin or root is suitable. After that, they can be immediately planted in the ground. Forsythia's branches take root very easily, and quickly take root both in the ground and in the water.
The second way is to take older cuttings, already lignified, they are planted in early autumn before frost, then covered with dry leaves. Also, breeding material can be taken in late autumn or winter, during the dormant period. Thick annual shoots are suitable for these purposes. Cuttings are stored until spring in a cellar or refrigerator, and in spring they are planted in a greenhouse or directly into the soil.
It is enough just to propagate the plant with the help of layering. To do this, an incision is made on the bark of a young shoot, the shoot is bent to the ground, fixed and covered with soil. The shoot takes root quickly, and a new plant develops from it. So forsythia can be propagated at any time of the year, except perhaps in winter.
Plant pruning
aesthetic purpose -
Pruning is also carried out to rejuvenate the specimen. Old shoots are cut by two-thirds, this activates the growth of young shoots. Such pruning is carried out after it finishes blooming; it is undesirable to carry it out more often than once every 3-4 years. In the first two years, it is better not to touch the bush at all, except to get rid of the frozen branches.
Before winter, the plant must be prepared for wintering. To do this, the bush is bent to the ground, fixed, the trunk and the near-trunk circle are covered with dry leaves, then the plantings are completely covered with spruce branches.Ovate forsythia can hibernate without shelter - provided that it is grown in a region with a climate similar to that of the Moscow region. In colder climates, it also needs to be covered with spruce branches for the winter, otherwise it will bloom worse.
When to cut?
I determine the ideal timing based on the climatic features of the area and the physiology of the plant itself. So, in the southern regions of our country, it is possible to take up scissors and pruning shears almost at the beginning of February, and in the northern regions it is better to postpone molding until the beginning of April.
My rule of thumb: pruning can be done when the average daily air temperature is more than -4 ° C. If it is colder outside, the wood becomes too hard and brittle, and the tool becomes dull and it is difficult to make a high-quality cut. But here, too, not everything is so simple. For example, I cut conifers almost the entire season, except for a short period of active resinification, which in some species is observed in early spring.
Conifers can be cut all season, except for the period of active resinification in some species in early spring. The correct grip of the scissors is important here.
Deciduous, for the most part, cannot be cut during the period of active sap flow, when the buds wake up and the leaves bloom. A haircut at such a time may even end in the death of the plant. For example, tree and panicle hydrangeas will “cry” so profusely if touched during this period that they will most likely dry out. Therefore, as soon as trees and shrubs have started to grow, it is better not to risk it and let them fully disclose new foliage. You will find detailed video instructions on pruning hydrangeas in the publications:
- Pruning hydrangea
- How to prune a panicle hydrangea
There are many prejudices about the timing of pruning fruit trees. As I already said, it is better not to touch them during the leafing period, but in the summer, when the harvest is ripening, it is quite possible to do both cutting and pruning. Yes, some of the fruits will die, but the rest will be larger and sweeter.
Read about other features of pruning fruit trees in the materials:
- Pruning in an orchard: a digest of useful site materials
- The perfect fruit tree. What to strive for when forming a crown?
- Saving young fruit trees from overload: step-by-step pruning instructions
- How to extend the life of an old fruit tree. Rejuvenating the ancient elders
When planning your fall haircuts, keep in mind that young growth is less likely to overwinter and is more likely to freeze out. Of course, this is not always critical, but in order not to risk it, it is better to start the procedure when the new growth has time to grow and grow woody.
An autumn haircut requires an analysis of the state of the growth, the procedure should be started when the new growth has time to grow and grow woody
Thorough pruning and shaping haircuts should be moved to spring, and autumn should be devoted to moderate hardwood pruning. To understand the nuances of this process, the article Autumn pruning of trees and shrubs will help.
Important: spring pruning stimulates shoot formation, and summer pruning inhibits. Tip: Choose non-extreme weather for trimming and trimming
This work must not be performed in extreme heat, strong wind and heavy rain.
Tip: Choose non-extreme weather for trimming and trimming. Do not perform this work in extreme heat, strong wind or heavy rain.
Autumn pruning of berry bushes
Berry bushes spend a lot of energy during the growing season and fruiting
To help them prepare for the new season and prolong their life, it is necessary to pay special attention to them in the fall. Top dressing after fruiting, combating diseases and pests, loosening and timely watering are very important measures for caring for berry bushes, but autumn pruning is an obligatory element of agricultural technology for these crops
Many fruit shrubs wake up quite early in the spring and you may simply not have time to carry out the necessary pruning in the spring. Therefore, in addition to sanitary, berry farmers carry out thinning and, if necessary, and rejuvenating pruning in the fall.
When pruning berry bushes in autumn, several rules must be followed:
- Do not shorten the shoots - it is better to do this in the spring.
- Cut old or dead branches as close to the ground as possible.
- When cutting branches, do not leave stumps, but make a cut "for a ring".
- Cut out all unripe shoots, since they will not withstand severe frosts and can harm the winter hardiness of the shrub.
- With rejuvenating pruning, make sure that the number of cut shoots does not exceed the number of remaining ones.
Repaired raspberry varieties are cut off completely after the fall, at the root. PavelRodimov
Features of raspberry pruning
Everyone's favorite raspberry is the first contender for autumn pruning. And here you don't even have to wait for the leaves to fall. The fact is that fruiting in this culture occurs on two-year shoots, which will no longer yield next year. Therefore, it is advisable to cut them out immediately after picking the berries.
Then the young shoots will receive more air and sun this year, which means they will mature better and be able to prepare for wintering and subsequent abundant fruiting. Fruit-bearing shoots are easy to distinguish from young ones - they are brown in color and break easily.
Repaired raspberry varieties are cut off completely after the fall, at the root. In the spring, young shoots will grow, on which berries will subsequently appear. Repaired raspberries, unlike ordinary ones, bear fruit on annual shoots.
Features of pruning honeysuckle
Honeysuckle is one of the first to please us with its harvest, so autumn pruning is simply necessary for it. In addition, with age, this bush grows strongly, covered with a large number of branches.
When pruning honeysuckle, you need to remove all shoots and shoots lying on the ground, and thin the bush itself, cutting out all weak or just extra shoots. Do not shorten the remaining branches, since the main fruiting of this culture falls on powerful annual shoots.
Features of currant pruning
Blackcurrant shoots reduce yields at the age of 4-5 years, therefore, starting from this age, it is necessary to remove old branches, allowing young shoots to mature and gain strength.
Red and white currants are able to delight with a good harvest a little longer than black currants, however, starting from 6-7 years of age, old shoots must be cut out of these varieties. This is best done in the fall.
Features of gooseberry pruning
Gooseberry fruiting begins at the age of 2–3 years, and up to 6–7 years of age, the bush pleases with a friendly return of fruits. From about this age, the aging of the bush begins.
When carrying out autumn pruning, it is necessary to annually remove old branches and fattening shoots that do not produce berries. For gooseberries, pruning is very important - a neglected bush begins to hurt and stops bearing fruit.
For gooseberries, pruning is very important - a neglected bush begins to hurt and stops bearing fruit
Features of autumn pruning of fruit lianas
Fruit vines have long ceased to be a rarity in our gardens. Today, gardeners successfully grow grapes, lemongrass and actinidia. All these crops are distinguished by strong sap flow in the spring, so they are cut off only in the autumn. At the same time, sanitary pruning is combined with shaping and thinning.
Rosemary
This shrub with fragrant leaves and blue flowers is grown both in flower gardens and vegetable gardens. It is clear that the greens are regularly cut off from it for culinary purposes, but with flowers everything is not so simple. They must be removed in early summer, immediately after flowering, cutting off the entire peduncle.
If the rosemary bushes are already adults and have grown a lot, then in the beginning of spring, formative and rejuvenating pruning is carried out.In this case, remove weak and low-lying shoots, rejuvenate overgrown specimens, shortening all branches by half.
Summer pruning of roses is a very important procedure, without which no species of this plant can do. Timely removal of dried flowers allows roses to accumulate strength without wasting them on the formation of fruits.
On roses that form several buds on one stem (floribundas, climbing climbers, shrubs), cut off the entire brush above the upper five-leafed leaf. In hybrid tea, the shoot is cut off almost completely, leaving only 3-4 leaves above the soil level. In climbing ramblers, after flowering, the brushes are removed to the first leaf.
Why bend the branches of fruit trees
It has long been noted that with vertical growth on the branches, the strongest shoots grow from the apical and adjacent buds. As the branch moves from the vertical to the horizontal position, bud awakening increases, and the growth of shoots from the top to the base of the branch is leveled. Shoots are usually weaker, but more prone to fruiting.
The essence of this phenomenon is explained by the peculiarities of the exchange. In the old days, peasant gardeners were not particularly versed in biology, but they knew that a wildly growing tree, which did not want to bear fruit, had to be put to shame. Pieces of bricks, cobblestones, old bast shoes will be hung on its branches, and the poor tree stands in full view of everyone. Shame, shame. Well, how can you not bear fruit here?
However, with improper bending of branches, with a very large number of bent branches, as well as in plants of a number of varieties characterized by natural drooping growth, strong vertically growing fatty shoots - tops inevitably appear on the bent branches. They consume that part of the water and mineral nutrients that the upper part of the horizontal and drooping branches is not able to use.
In recent years, bending of branches has become popular again. In some forms of crowns (fusiform, fan-shaped, various palmettes), the entire pruning system is built on the bending of branches, and even in the crowns we are used to, it is rarely now possible to do without this technique.
You need to strengthen the growth of some branch - give it a position close to vertical. It is necessary to weaken, intensify fouling, accelerate fruiting - bend it to a horizontal or drooping position. You can change the orientation of the branches from spring until almost the end of summer. When it's convenient. If you peel back the branches in autumn or winter, they will not acquire a given position. Remove the mount and they will snap into place. Do not suddenly bend a thick branch. And you make shallow cuts or cuts at the bottom of the branch at the bend, and it will go.
At an angle of departure less than 40 °, the branch may break off when bent. To prevent this from happening, you must first strengthen it. This is achieved by tight strapping of the corner base. When bending back, make sure that there is no arc, otherwise strong tops will form on it. Tinker with them later. Fasten the branch in the desired position with twine or twine. Fix one end with a free loop on the branch, and tie the other to the trunk, the trunk, the lower branch, to the peg driven into the ground, to the trellis. To prevent the string from cutting into the bark, put something under it - a piece of rubber, just sticks of some kind.
