Video review
During the cultivation of heliconia, you can face the following problems
Yellowing foliage - the reason for this may be insufficient lighting in the autumn-winter period. Or insufficient watering and lack of nutrients - in the summer.
Dying off of green leaves - occurs with poor watering or improper temperature conditions.
The formation of wrinkles on the sheet plates - can occur due to exposure to cold air currents or drafts. Another reason may be lack of potassium, magnesium or phosphorus.
Yellowing leaf tips - are formed if the plant does not have enough moisture or there is too much calcium in the soil.
Twisting of leaves - can occur with insufficient watering.
Faded color of leaf plates - occurs when there is a lack of lighting.
In floristry, Heliconia inflorescences are often used to compose "masculine" bouquets. The flower is identified with primacy, nobility and strength.
According to the teachings of Feng Shui, the "parrot's beak" growing at home helps to activate the Qi energy - "the breath of life." In this case, the plant should be in a niche or corner of the room. But do not put a pot of heliconia in children's rooms - in this case, the plant will absorb the vitality of the household.
Reproduction of neorelegia
It is possible to propagate neorelegia in two ways: by rosettes or by seeds. After the plant has faded, a large number of rosettes are formed on it. When at least 4 leaves grow on each process, it will be possible to separate and transplant them. The rosette is separated from the roots and planted in a separate pot. Next, the pot is placed in a warm place with a temperature of at least 28 degrees. Cover the plant with glass from above
It is important not to forget to ventilate the artificial greenhouse every day. After the rosette gets stronger and takes root in the new soil, the glass can be removed and you can begin to care for the neorelegia like other adult plants.
If the florist has chosen the method of propagation by seeds, then they must first be soaked in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Then they are dried and planted in moist sphagnum, covered with glass. The temperature of the seeds is about 25 degrees, the greenhouse is watered and aired daily. The first shoots can be observed after 14-21 days. After 3 months, the seedlings can be transplanted into the pre-purchased soil for bromeliads. The first flowers can be seen only after 3-4 years.
Protection against harmful insects
Neoregelia is often attacked by harmful insects that can seriously harm its greenery and flowers. The sooner pests can be detected, the easier it will be to get rid of them. That is why experienced florists recommend regularly inspecting neoregelia bushes in order to detect signs of damage by harmful insects in time and take appropriate measures.
Like other members of the Bromeliad family, neoregelia is attacked by bromeliad scale insects. Their appearance is evidenced by the yellowing of the leaf plates of the plant and their subsequent subsidence. Insects cover both sides of the leaf blades, which can be seen when inspecting an infected bush. You can get rid of the scale insects by spraying or wiping the foliage of the neoregelia with a solution prepared on the basis of the Actellik drug. It is enough to dilute 15-20 drops of the drug with a liter of water to obtain the product of the required concentration.
Another dangerous enemy of neoregelia is the mealybug.First of all, its appearance is signaled by sugar-like traces on leaf plates, which are an environment for the development of fungal spores. Gradually, as the fungus develops, the plant affected by it begins to lag behind in growth, its leaves turn yellow, as a result, the bush may die. If the infection has not managed to affect the entire plant as a whole, it will be enough to wipe the affected parts with a cloth moistened with alcohol or soapy water. In the case when the disease has become serious, it is possible to treat neoregelia with insecticidal drugs - Karbofos, Fufanon, the already mentioned Aktellik.
The appearance of a whitish cobweb on the leaves of neoregelia indicates the defeat of the plant with a red spider mite, which spreads on both sides of the leaf plates. Gradually, the leaves of the plant begin to turn yellow and crumble. To get rid of mites, it is enough to treat the leaves with a solution based on laundry soap. If this method does not help, it remains only to resort to the use of an insecticide. Spraying with a solution based on "Decis" is recommended.
The yellowness of the leaf plates of neoregelia may be associated with the appearance of aphids, which feed on plant sap, gradually depleting them. As in the case with the defeat of the bromelium scabbard, it is recommended to treat the plant with the drug "Actellik" in the same dosage.
Some ailments of neoregelia are associated with a violation of agrotechnical recommendations. So, stagnation of moisture in the soil can cause the development of fusarium: as a result, necrosis of the lower part of the plant begins, and it dies. The appearance of brown spots on the leaf plates indicates burns as a result of exposure to direct sunlight. Dry and brown edges of the leaf plates indicate a moisture deficit in the overdried air of the room where the neoregelia is located.
Possible growing difficulties
In the process of growing neoregelia, some difficulties may arise associated with the development of diseases or the appearance of pests, so further we will consider how to deal with them.
We advise you to familiarize yourself with other decorative flowering indoor plants:
Diseases
Fusarium is isolated from common infectious diseases, which manifests itself in decay of the leaf growth point and plant death. The main reason for the development is regular waterlogging and cool conditions. Treatment of fusarium does not give results, the flower dies. To avoid the development of the disease, it is recommended to more closely monitor the temperature indicators in the room and follow the recommendations for watering.
Pests
Pests that can settle on neoregelia include:
- bromeliad scale - inhabits both sides of the leaf and leads to the death of the deciduous part of the plant. It is necessary to fight the pest by mechanical removal of the scabbards using a sponge treated in the Actellika insecticidal solution or spray the flower with the same solution according to the instructions;
- mealybug - settles on the leaves, feeds on their juice, during which it releases sugary secretions, leading to a sooty fungus. Signs of infection are growth retardation, yellowing of leaves. It is necessary to fight the pest by treating the leaves with soapy water or alcohol. If the lesion is strong and simple remedies do not help, you should resort to treating the deciduous part with the Fufanon insecticide;
- red spider mite - appears on the back of the leaves. Signs - curling of leaves, the appearance of a thin web. It is necessary to fight the pest by treating the plant with "Decis" according to the instructions;
- aphids - inhabits the front side of the leaf, feeds on its juice, which leads to yellowing and drying. Fight against aphids should be the drug "Actellic", using it according to the instructions.
Thus, it is not difficult to grow neoregelia at home, the main thing is to follow the care recommendations and maintain the necessary conditions in the room for normal growth and flowering.
Caring for neorehelia at home
Location and lighting
Compliance with all the rules for growing neorelegia ensures good growth and a healthy appearance of the plant. Neorelegia needs bright, diffused sunlight, but direct burning rays are harmful to the plant. Leaves can get burned. In the autumn-winter period, the plant must be provided with additional artificial lighting. Special fluorescent lamps are suitable
In the room in which the neorelegia is located, a constant supply of fresh air must be ensured, but it is important to avoid drafts.
Temperature
In spring and summer, the optimum ambient temperature should be in the range of 20-25 degrees. In winter, the plant is kept in a cool room with a temperature close to 16 degrees. In such conditions, the flowering of neorelegia can be extended for up to six months.
Air humidity
The humidity of the air for keeping the plant must be increased (at least 60%). Ideal conditions for growth will be finding neorelegia in a greenhouse or greenhouse. If there are no greenhouse conditions, then the plant is constantly sprayed with distilled water. Or they put neorelegia in a pallet with wet expanded clay. The main condition is that the bottom of the pot should not touch the water. The leaves of the plant accumulate a large amount of dust, therefore, it is periodically washed from the surface with a damp cloth.
In spring and summer, neorelegia needs abundant watering through a rosette of leaves. Water the plant in the morning. In winter, water is poured at the root, and the watering itself is reduced to prevent rotting of the roots or rosette. Water for irrigation should be distilled a little more than room temperature by 3 degrees.
The optimal composition of soil for neorelegia is a mixture of crushed pine bark, sphagnum moss, peat, leaf and humus soil in a ratio of 3: 1: 1: 1: 0.5. You can also use a different composition of the substrate: leafy soil, peat soil, peat and sand in a ratio of 2: 1: 1: 0.5.
Top dressing and fertilizers
Neorelegia needs fertilization in the spring and summer. From May to September, the plant is fertilized once every 3-4 weeks. Fertilizers are suitable for bromeliads. The fertilizer concentrate diluted with water is applied to the leaf outlet.
It is necessary to transplant neorelegia only when necessary, for example, when the flower has grown too large and the pot has become small. It is necessary to ensure that the neorelegue neck is always deepened in the soil. During the transplant, you need to take care of good drainage. Drainage should take up about a third of the entire space in the pot.
Diseases, pests, problems
The risk of developing diseases and attacks of harmful insects arises if you ignore the rules plant care... Most often, neoregelia is annoyed by a mealybug. In addition, the flower can be attacked by a spider mite or scabbard. The last of the listed insects has a specific species, which is called the bromeliad scale. It parasitizes the leaves and causes them to die off quickly.
While cultivating this plant, you can face other problems. For example, sometimes brown or light spots form on the leaves. They arise under the influence of direct sunlight. Dried leaf tips are the result of low humidity. When caring for a plant, you need to inspect it regularly. In this way, you can detect the problem in a timely manner and quickly fix it.
The purchase of a tropical plant neoregelia is an excellent option for those who want beautiful and unusual exoticism to be present in their flower garden.
Special bromeliad with bright patterns
Neoregelia carolinae is one of the most unusual representatives of Bromeliads.
Strict graphic and at the same time - dazzling brightness conquer at first sight. This plant surprises, first of all, not with its structure or flowering, but with the brightness of its color. And despite the large selection of indoor epiphytes and other lovers of humid tropical conditions, this type of neoregelia stands out from the whole genus and is considered a fashionable and modern favorite today.
It is in interiors with a focus on futuristic design that neoregelia is able to fully reveal its beauty. A plant with an unusual and austere appearance seems to embody all the best that can be inherent in bromeliads - interesting details, laconic forms and unusual character.
Carolina neoregelia develops in the form of rather spreading, wide and flat funnel-shaped rosettes, typical of all bromeliads. The height of neoregelia is limited to 20 cm. The diameter of this plant can reach half a meter.
Rosettes are formed by lingual, even, rich green leaves with a rounded, slightly pointed edge. Glossiness adds beauty to the patterns and color, and the prickly edge gives the plant originality, but still does not detract from the simplicity of the lines.
Neoregelia Carolina on sale is more often found not with monochromatic green leaves, but with bright contrasting stripes of white or pink color, various options for the marble pattern, which equally remain catchy and give the plant a defiant graphic appearance. The "Tricolor" variety is considered the most beloved and "exemplary" variety.
The most attractive and most striking feature of the plant is the colored inner leaves closest to the inflorescence. With the onset of flowering, they are repainted in a dazzling bright pink-red tone. The next row of leaves is repainted almost completely, the subsequent ones - partially, up to half or less.
But there is a purple spot at the ends of all the leaves. Thus, it seems that the plant is flaring up from the inside, paint has been poured into its center or the rosettes are bleeding. The bright colors of the inner leaves are perfectly combined with the rich green tone and variegated patterns of the rest of the rosette. Unlike many competitors from among the bromeliads, Carolina's neoregelia does not form massive inflorescences that rise above the rosette of leaves on the peduncle.
The flowers of this beauty seem to be bashfully hiding in the bosom of the inner leaves, the inflorescence is hidden in the depths of the rosette. So, the flowers of this beauty can only be appreciated closely with close examination.
Asymmetrical, with narrow pointed petals and rather pale in color (brighter - lilac-blue - only at the top), with petals fused with stamens, the flowers are located in a kind of racemose inflorescence, which is barely visible from a distance and forms an unusual lush center in the funnel.
The flowering of neoregelia traditionally lasts from June to September, but on sale even at other times of the year you can find varieties that bloom at different times and flaunt with brightly colored inner leaves. After flowering, the mother rosette dies off, forming replacement daughter rosettes.
Plant care
Caring for neorehelia at home can seem daunting. The plant needs to create conditions close to natural. The pot should be placed in a bright room, but shaded from direct sunlight. A long daylight hours are important, if necessary, neoregelia is illuminated with a lamp.
In summer it is necessary to choose a warm room with an air temperature of + 20 ... + 25 ° C
It is important to avoid drafts and sudden cold snaps. For the winter, the bushes are taken out to a colder place with temperatures up to + 16 ° C
This procedure promotes the formation of flowers.
Throughout the year, it is necessary to ensure high humidity. It is recommended to place neoregelia near aquariums, fountains or water bodies. If there are none, pallets with wet pebbles or expanded clay are placed around the room.However, the soil should not be in constant contact with water so that rot does not develop. It is recommended to periodically wipe thick leaves with a damp cloth from dust.
Watering neoregelia from spring to late summer is often done, but in small portions. Warm water is poured into the recess of the sheet socket. In winter, the amount of liquid and the frequency of watering is significantly reduced. The liquid is poured directly into the soil. From May to September, a complex of mineral fertilizers is added to the water. You can use formulations for bromilium or orchids.
Transplantation of neoregelia is performed infrequently. The root system of the plant is very delicate and requires careful handling. For planting, use small pots with large drainage holes. The drainage layer should be at least one third of the volume of the pot. The substrate depends on the type of plant.
For epiphytic forms, the following mixture is used:
- pine bark (3 parts);
- sphagnum moss (1 part);
- peat (1 part);
- sheet land (1 part);
- sod land (0.5 parts).
Terrestrial varieties are suitable for a composition of:
- leafy land (2 parts);
- turf land (1 part);
- sand (0.5 parts);
- peat (1 part).
Neoregelia has good immunity to disease, but can suffer from parasite attacks. If traces of a scale insect, mealybug, aphid or spider mite are found, it is necessary to treat with insecticides (actellik, karbofos, fufanon).
Home care
Consider the features of flower care.
Illumination
In winter, the lighting should also be excellent, for this reason it is recommended at this time to supplement the flower with fluorescent lamps.
The room must be regularly ventilated, but there should be no drafts.
Temperature
In spring and summer, neoregelia grows well and forms at a fever of 20 to 25 degrees. In winter, it is recommended to place the plant in a cool place (approximately 16 degrees), in these conditions it can bloom much longer, or rather, about six months.
How to water?
In the warm season, watering is carried out regularly in the morning, while water must be poured directly into a leaf outlet. In winter, water in moderation and pour water under the root, otherwise the plant will rot. The water should be warm and soft.
Humidity
A high humidity of at least 60% is required. For this reason, neoregelia is recommended to be grown in greenhouses or terrariums. When kept at home, it is necessary to pour expanded clay into the pallet and pour some water (make sure that the bottom of the pot does not touch the water). In addition, it is regularly sprayed.
Planting and transplanting
For terrestrial types, the optimal mixture consists of humus, leafy soil, and also sand and peat, taken in a ratio of 1: 2: 0.5: 1.
Epiphytic plants need a mixture that includes sphagnum moss, pine bark, humus and leafy soil, as well as peat (proportion 1: 3: 0.5: 1: 1).
The drainage layer should fill the flower pot by one third.
Reproduction methods
Neoregelia reproduces with the help of seeds and lateral processes that appear after flowering. A lateral process with 3-4 leaves is suitable for this. It is planted in a pot, which is covered with plastic or glass. It should be opened daily. Grooming is exactly the same as for an old plant.
Before sowing, the seeds are dipped in a light solution of potassium manganese, and then dried. They are sown in pounded moss and covered with glass. Sprayed and ventilated daily. At the age of 2-3 months, they are transplanted into independent pots.
Pests and diseases
Mealybugs, aphids, scale insects or spider mites can attack it. The bromeliad scale insect settles on both sides of the leaf. From this they turn yellow and fall off. A solution of 1 liter is effective from it. water and 15-20 drops of actellic. The plant is sprayed or wiped with it.
The mealybug infects the plant with a sooty fungus. From this it stops growing, turns yellow, and then dies.Fight the fungus with pure alcohol or laundry soap. They just wipe the plant. Severe infections are treated with actellik, fufanon and karbofos.
Aphids feed on plant sap. From this it turns yellow and dies. Actellic helps well against it (about 20 drops per liter of water).
In addition, the plant can infect fusarium, leading to damage to the lower part, from which it dies. Excessive moisture contributes to this. Sunburn can result in light brown spots on the leaves.
Varieties
The genus of neoregelia is quite diverse, which allows you to choose and buy the one you like the most. The most popular among domestic florists is Carolina's neoregelia. This epiphytic plant is found in the Brazilian highlands at an altitude of about 1.2 km. The leaves reach 40-60 cm in length and 2.5-3.5 cm in width. An adult bush usually has several funnel-shaped rosettes, in which there are about 20 leaves. The shiny tabs of the leaf plates are bright green. The lateral margins are densely covered with short spines. On the eve of flowering, the inner surface of the foliage is covered with bright red paint. The dense inflorescence consists of many lilac-white buds on short legs. Flowering occurs in May-July. This variety has variegated varieties with longitudinal stripes on the sides of a white or yellow leaf.
Neoregelia Carolina
Neoregelia marble. Inhabits rocky coastal slopes in Brazil. The belt-like leaves reach 20-60 cm in length and 8 cm in width. The edges of the monochromatic foliage are covered with short thorns and small spots. Before flowering, the purple spots grow larger and spread over the entire surface. The inflorescence is located in the center on a short peduncle. In June, pink-white flowers bloom with a diameter of 2-3 cm.
Neoregelia marble
Neoregelia is beautiful - a spreading epiphyte with large light green leaves. The length of the foliage reaches 40 cm. The edge of each leaf is colored bright pink or red. Bluish flowers bloom twice a year, in January-February and June-July. The length of each bud reaches 2-3 cm.
Neoregelia is beautiful
Neoregelia is gloomy. This epiphytic alpine variety is distinguished by narrow leaf funnels. Their length does not exceed 40 cm, and their width is 2-3 cm. Leaves directed upwards are covered with small grayish spots on top, and have transverse stripes below. The capitate inflorescence blooms in August. Against the background of red bracts, bluish petals up to 1.5 cm long stand out.
Neoregelia gloomy
Vesiculate neoregelia. The plant forms compact epiphytic bushes. The length of the leaves does not exceed 20 cm, and the width is 1.5 cm. Transverse reddish stripes are located on the surface of the leaf plate. The inflorescence is deep in the rosette and consists of several bluish flowers. Flowering occurs from April to August.
Vesiculate neoregelia
Tiger neoregelia is a very decorative epiphytic perennial. The reed leaves are yellowish-green and completely covered with burgundy transverse stripes. The length of the leaves is 10-13 cm, and the width is only 1-1.5 cm. The dense inflorescence on a short peduncle consists of many pale purple flowers. Flowering occurs in March.
Tiger neoregelia
Reproduction
Nidularium can be purchased at a flower shop or grown independently at home. There are two breeding methods for this:
- Offspring. After flowering, the plant dies off, but daughter children appear. As soon as they have 4 leaves, they are cut off with a sharp knife. The place of the cut is sprinkled with crushed coal. Then it is slightly dried and planted in the ground. They are placed in a shaded place, covered with a film on top, periodically moistened. With the advent of new leaves, the greenhouse is removed. The first transplant is carried out in a year.
- Seeds.This method is rather complicated and is used less often than the first one. Purchase seed material in the store. For germination, a peat-sand mixture is used, which is first treated with a solution of potassium permanganate and dried well. Seeds are sown into prepared soil, watered and covered with a jar. They are kept at a temperature of 22-24 degrees, regularly ventilated and moisturized. After 2-3 weeks, the first shoots appear and the greenhouse is removed. After 2-3 months, young plants dive into the cups.
When propagated by offspring, the first flowering occurs 2–3 years after planting, and with seed, after 4–5 years.
Caring for nidularium at home
Growing nidularium indoors is not difficult at all, you just need to follow a few not very complicated rules.
Illumination
The plant from the first spring to the last autumn weeks needs bright, but diffused light (approximately 2600-3000 lux). In this regard, in autumn, as well as in spring, it is recommended to provide the flower with additional illumination.
Experienced florists advise placing it on the windowsill of a window located in the western or eastern part of the room. The northern window does not fit due to the fact that there is little light and flowering may not come because of this, and the southern window is due to the presence of direct rays of the sun.
Temperature regime
In summer, nidularium feels comfortable at temperatures from 22 to 25 degrees, which is quite the same as the climate of middle latitudes. In winter, it is recommended to place it in a cool place (18–20 degrees), but the temperature should not drop below 16 degrees, otherwise the heat-loving flower may die.
How to water
In the spring and summer, water should be abundant. The substrate must not be allowed to dry out, and it is necessary that it is constantly slightly moistened. During watering, water is poured directly into a leaf outlet.
When kept cold in winter, as well as if it is cool enough in summer, it is recommended to water less. And experienced florists advise not to water the nidularium at all at this time, but only to spray its foliage.
You need to water it with extremely soft and settled water, which should be slightly warm.
Humidity
In order for the plant to grow and develop normally, it needs high humidity. Therefore, it is recommended to grow it in humid greenhouses or florariums. If this is not possible, then the humidity can be increased by systematically spraying the flower (at least 2 times a day). Also, to increase the humidity, you can pour expanded clay into the pallet and pour some water. You can also do this by placing a container of water next to the nidularium.
Earth mixture
A suitable soil mixture consists of light turf, humus, peat and leafy soil, which are taken in equal proportions, and you also need to pour in a little finely chopped pine bark, charcoal and sand (can be replaced with perlite). You can also buy ready-made soil mixture for bromeliads.
It is best to plant a plant in a fairly wide pot, as it grows quickly enough. And don't forget about a good drainage layer.
Top dressing
Top dressing is carried out from mid-spring to mid-autumn, once every 4 weeks, while fertilizers are applied to the soil along with watering. For this, a special fertilizer for bromeliads is suitable. You can also take fertilizer for indoor plants, but use only ¼ of the recommended dose on the package. In winter, they do not feed.
Transplant features
The plant is transplanted only if necessary, if the plant grows very strongly, while occupying the entire area of the soil. Leaf rosettes must be planted at the same level as before. If they are deepened, then the nidularium may die.
Reproduction methods
Can be easily propagated by daughter rosettes (babies). So, you can divide the whole jacket during the transfer.When separating a daughter outlet, it is necessary that it has at least 4 leaves, since in this case it will already have a root system.
You can grow this flower from seeds. In this case, flowering will occur only in the 4th year of the flower's life.
Pests and diseases
Mealybugs and scale insects can settle on the nidularium. The infected plant must be treated with special chemicals.
The plant may get sick, if the rules for care are not followed. For example:
- the tips of the leaves dry - low air humidity;
- the appearance of light brown spots - direct rays of the sun hit the plant;
- if the plant is watered too abundantly, then it may die.
