Mühlenbeckia
A genus such as Muehlenbeckia is directly related to the buckwheat family (Polygonaceae). It unites about 20 species of various climbing or creeping dwarf shrubs and shrubs that are evergreen. They are found naturally in New Zealand and Australia.
Strongly branching, woody, thin stems intertwine with each other. The most compact species have shoots no more than 15 centimeters long, and the largest ones have up to 300 centimeters. The smooth bark is brown or brown-red in color.
Small alternate leaves, which are short-petiolate, have the shape of an oval or wedge-shaped, as well as obovate. And there are species whose leaves have a heart-shaped base. Axillary, few-flowered inflorescences are collected in a brush.
Tiny (half a centimeter in diameter), five-petal flowers of greenish-yellow or white color do not represent decorative value. The fruit is presented as a spherical achene.
Despite the large number of species, in home floriculture, as a rule, only one is used - Muehlenbeckia complexa. Its tiny (0.6 to 1.5 centimeters in diameter) oval-shaped leaves are painted in a dark green color, and along the edges and along the veins they are cast red.
There are several varieties of such a plant, the differences of which are in the size of the leaves:
- "Large-leaved" (Grandifolia) - the leaf is larger than that of the natural species;
- "Microphylla" - the average size of the leaf;
- "Nana" (Nana) - the smallest leaves.
Home care for muhlenbeckia
This plant can be easily grown by novice flower growers. It is very unpretentious and not demanding to care for. Mühlenbeckia is often grown as a liana, fixing it on a special support or as an ampelous plant in hanging pots.
Illumination
The plant is light-requiring and therefore needs a well-lit place. But it should be borne in mind that it is better if the light is diffused. He needs a certain amount of direct rays of the sun in the evening or in the morning.
It is recommended to place a flower in the western or eastern part of the room. If you put the flower on the north side, then the stems will be very elongated and thin, since there is little light.
In the southern part of the premises in the summer at noon hours, it is necessary to provide the plant with shading.
Temperature regime
In the warm season, the plant needs a moderate temperature. So, it will feel great at temperatures from 22 to 24 degrees. If it gets hotter, the leaves will become lethargic and begin to turn yellow.
In winter, a cool content is recommended for Mühlenbeckia. So, it must be kept at this time in a place with a temperature in the range of 10-12 degrees. At this time, a dormant period is observed and the plant often sheds a certain number of leaves.
How to water
During intensive growth, the plant must be watered so that the substrate in the flower pot is constantly slightly moistened. At the same time, you need to remember that in no case should water stagnation in the ground be allowed. The result of this can be acidification of the soil, as well as the formation of rot on the flower, which will lead to its death.
Water less during the dormant period. So, between watering, the top layer of the substrate should dry out well.
Watered exclusively with settled, soft water at room temperature.
Humidity
There are no special requirements for air humidity. In the event that the room temperature is very high (in summer), it is recommended to spray the leaves with lukewarm water.
Earth mixture
The soil suitable for the plant should be slightly alkaline or acidic.
The most important thing is that the soil should be loose, and also moisture and air permeable.
You can make a soil mixture with your own hands, for this by mixing sheet, clay-sod and peat soil, as well as coarse sand, taken in equal proportions.
You can also purchase a versatile soil for indoor deciduous plants.
Do not forget to make a good drainage layer at the bottom of the container, consisting of pebbles or expanded clay. This will prevent waterlogging and rot formation.
Transplant features
The transplant is carried out once a year in the spring.
The plant should be transplanted very carefully, since it is sick for a long time due to damage to the root system. It is recommended to transfer the flower along with a lump of earth into a larger container.
Pests and diseases
Muhlenbeckia practically does not get sick and is not affected by pests. But it can be harmed by waterlogging or overdrying of the soil, direct rays of the sun, high or low temperatures, poor lighting, and so on.
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Light for room albicia: natural and artificial
Light intensity is one of the most important factors in the successful cultivation of indoor albicans. In nature, these plants choose open sunny areas. The same place should be found indoors.
A combination of natural and artificial lighting may be required even for young albits who are still placed on the windowsill:
| North window | East window | Western window | South window |
| Additional lighting is required all year round. | From autumn to the end of winter, constant supplementary lighting is needed. In spring and summer - in cloudy weather or if there is any obstacle in front of the windows (trees, buildings, etc.). | From autumn to the end of winter, constant supplementary lighting is needed. In spring and summer - in cloudy weather or if there is any obstacle in front of the windows (trees, buildings, etc.). | In spring and summer, additional lighting is not needed if there is no obstacle in front of the window. In autumn and winter, it will be required in cloudy weather. |
An adult albicia, which stands in the back of the room, will experience a lack of sun all the time. Arranging artificial lighting for a large tree is very difficult. Therefore, control of the height and volume of the crown in this case is a vital condition.
Without enough sunlight, even adult albitsia will not bloom. Thus, light is one of the main limiting factors for growing albition in indoor conditions.
Features of care
Zamia furfuracea is a much more demanding plant than zamioculcas and the conditions for its maintenance are completely different.
Lighting and temperature
The culture loves bright light and feels great outdoors in direct sunlight. At home, zamia is grown on windows from the west, east and south sides. However, in the southern exposure in the summer, the plant in the house must be shaded from 12 to 4 pm.
Rotate the pot regularly so that the leaves are evenly lit, otherwise they will only grow in the direction of sunlight. When grown in bright light, the rosette of leaves becomes almost vertical, in the shade it takes a horizontal position.
This species prefers the air temperature during the growing season from 21 to 28 ̊С. In winter, provide your green pet with a cool regime of 15-17 ° C. Temperatures below 3-4 ̊С negatively affect the condition of the plant.
Zamia loves good air circulation, so ventilate the room more often by first removing the flower pot to another room in winter.
Watering and humidity
The zamia flower requires regular, moderate watering, which is carried out after the top soil layer has dried. Irrigation frequency in the spring-summer period is about once every 7-10 days. In late autumn and winter, watered every 3-4 weeks.
The plant is quite resistant to drought, however, do not allow the soil to dry out too much, as Zamia reacts to moisture deficiency by yellowing and shedding foliage.Watering is carried out with soft water, slightly above room temperature, avoiding moisture on the trunk, as this can lead to the development of rot.
In summer, in hot and dry weather, you can occasionally spray water near the flower. Taking care of the zamia also includes periodically wiping the leaves from dust with a damp cloth. The lower leaf stalks dry out over time, which is a natural process. Dried petioles are cut as close to the trunk as possible.
Top dressing and transplanting
Top dressing is carried out once a month from April to October with fertilizers that contain balanced trace elements. Many gardeners also recommend watering the plant with a mild Epsom salt solution containing magnesium sulfate once a month. For watering, dilute half a tablespoon of salt in 2.2 liters of water.
The flower does not need frequent transplants, it is enough to carry out the procedure every 2-3 years. Transplanted in the spring, before the start of active growth, into a soil mixture of universal flower soil, humus and sand (perlite) in a ratio of 3: 3: 2. A drainage layer of suitable material must be laid out at the bottom of the pot.
It is better to choose a heavy pot for transplanting - ceramic or clay. In large specimens, instead of replanting, it is enough to replace the old topsoil with a thickness of 5-8 cm with a fresh one.
Reproduction
In natural and domestic conditions, zamia reproduces by seed and root shoots. The seed germination process is very slow and difficult, it is difficult to achieve results in the house, therefore it is preferable to use the vegetative method.
This species, like other cicadas, produces, over time, small outgrowths around the central trunk or on the trunk itself. Each "baby" ready for separation should have 1-2 leaves, if there are more leaves, then it is better to remove them.
Young seedlings are separated during transplantation, the cuts are allowed to dry for 1-2 days, the place of separation is treated with a fungicide and planted in separate pots, and at first the soil is kept moderately moist all the time.
Attention! All parts of the plant (fleshy seeds, leaves) are poisonous to animals and humans. The toxin causes liver and kidney failure and possible paralysis
Currently, no cure for poisoning is known, so be careful when caring for a zamie, carry out the procedure only with gloves. Pet owners should consider purchasing this crop.
Growing problems
The pale color of the leaf plates appears due to direct sunlight.
Yellowing of the leaves is associated with overflow or lack of moisture.
The plant is susceptible to such pests as spider mites, but rot, which develops in conditions of high humidity and excess water in the soil, poses a threat to the health and life of the zamia.
Caring for a chick in the garden
Yaskolka is distinguished by its unpretentiousness, so it is quite simple to grow it in your garden. Best of all, such a flower grows on poor soil, while the site should be sunny and open. In springtime, be sure to clear the area where such a culture grows from plant debris, old branches and loose leaves. Then this plant needs to provide timely weeding, watering, pruning. You should also cut off wilted flowers in time, and also loosen the surface of the soil between the bushes, but this can not be done.
How to water and feed
This crop is resistant to drought, but it still needs systematic watering, it should be done once every 7 days. If it rains regularly in the summer, then you do not need to water the shrub. But during a prolonged drought, it is imperative to water such a flower.
Experts do not have a consensus on whether such a culture is necessary for feeding.Some of them are sure that the plant grows well without them, and in the opinion of the rest, the chickweed will respond well to several dressings made during the summer period. Gardeners who decide to feed such a flower should use fertilizer for garden ornamental plants for this purpose. He also reacts normally to feeding with organic fertilizers (solution of mullein or bird droppings), they are recommended to be introduced into the soil alternately with minerals. During the growing season, you need to feed the shrub only 2 or 3 times.
How to trim
This herb is prone to strong growth, in this regard, it needs mandatory pruning. In spring, sanitary pruning is carried out, during which it is necessary to cut out all dried, injured and damaged by frost or disease stems. Also, in the spring or during the flowering period, a formative pruning is carried out, as a result of which the gardener will have to direct the stems in the desired direction and remove all excess shoots. When the bushes fade, it is imperative to cut off all the shoots with peduncles. If pruned correctly, the lamb will begin to bloom again in the last weeks of the summer. But it should be borne in mind that the re-flowering is less lush.
How to transplant
Such a crop in the same place in the garden can be grown for many years. However, sooner or later, the bushes will grow strongly, and they will need to be transplanted and rejuvenated. During transplantation, the chicks are propagated by dividing the bush. This is best done at the beginning of spring. To begin with, the bushes must be subjected to strong pruning, then they are removed from the soil and divided into parts. Each of the sections should be cleaned of rotting and dried roots. The planting of the cut in open soil is carried out in the same way as the initial planting of the dwarf. Experienced gardeners recommend transplanting bushes at least once every 5 years.
Wintering
Yaskolka perennial is characterized by moderate frost resistance, while in regions with warm winters, it is not necessary to cover the bushes for wintering. But in areas with little snow and frosty winters, the plant needs shelter, which can be used as spunbond or lutrasil. Fallen leaves or spruce branches are not advised to be used for shelter, since the bushes under them often begin to rot.
Diseases and pests
Yaskolka is very resistant to pests and diseases. As a rule, harmful insects or diseases affect only those bushes that have been weakened by improper care or non-compliance with the rules of agricultural technology. If you water the plant very abundantly and often, then rot appears on its root system. In order to prevent, the bushes need to be watered correctly, systematically inspect them, cut off fading flowers and stems in time, and you also need to pull out all the weeds immediately after they appear.
Yaskolka. Leaving, landing. Felt yaskolka in winter.
Dicenter care
Watering the plant should be moderate, and you should also systematically loosen the surface of the soil and pull out weeds in a timely manner. It should be borne in mind that the root system of the flower for normal development requires oxygen, so it is imperative to loosen the earth. When the seedlings just appear in spring, they need to be covered at night, because frosts can destroy them. Water it with soft water. At the same time, during a drought period, watering should be done more often than usual, but it must be borne in mind that excessive watering can cause rotting of the root system. The plant must be fed regularly. At the beginning of spring, it needs a fertilizer containing nitrogen, when it begins to bloom, then there is a need for superphosphate, in autumn the surface of the trunk circle must be shed with mullein infusion and mulched with humus.If you want to prolong flowering, then it is necessary to promptly cut off the flowers that are starting to fade.
Transfer
The flower does not need to be transplanted often, so, without this procedure, it can do for 5-6 years. After that, it is recommended to transplant it by choosing a new site for it. Once every 2 years, the flower must be planted, if this is not done, then the overgrown root system begins to rot, which leads to its partial death. In early autumn, after the end of flowering, or in the last days of April and the first - in May, a flower that is 3-4 years old must be carefully dug out, while trying not to injure the roots. After the roots dry out a little (they should become slightly dried), they need to be carefully divided into pieces of 10-15 centimeters, each of which should have 3 or 4 buds. The sections should be sprinkled with ash. After that, the segments are planted in a new place and watered. If you want the bush to be lush, then 2 or 3 root segments can be planted in one hole at once. You need to transplant the plant in the same way as planting.
Reproduction of dicentra
The above describes how to propagate this plant by dividing the bush. It is rather difficult to grow such a flower from seeds and it is very labor-intensive, but nevertheless, some amateur gardeners still resort to this method of reproduction, and at the same time there are cases of quite successful cultivation of a dicentra. Seeds are sown in September, while the containers are placed in a cool place (from 18 to 20 degrees). The seedlings should appear in about 30 days. After the seedlings have 2 true leaves each, they will need to be dived into the open soil. For wintering, seedlings need shelter and for this they use a film. A plant grown from a seed begins to bloom only at the age of three.
The plant can be propagated by cuttings in early spring. At the beginning of the spring period, you need to prepare cuttings; for this, young shoots with a heel are cut off. The cuttings should be about 15 centimeters long. They are placed in a root-growth agent for 24 hours and then planted in flower pots for rooting. At the same time, a light and moist soil is used for rooting, and the cuttings must be plucked with glass jars, which are removed only after a few weeks. Once the cuttings have developed roots, they can only be transplanted into the garden after 12 months.
Diseases and pests
The dicenter is distinguished by a fairly high resistance to diseases, but sometimes it still gets sick with tobacco mosaic and ring spot. In an infected specimen, spots and stripes appear on young leaf plates, and on adults, rings of a pale color and elongated shape are formed, which outlines are similar to oak leaves. Rarely, a plant becomes ill with mycoplasma disease, as a result of which its peduncles become curved, growth slows down, and the color of the flowers changes to green or yellow. For the prevention of diseases, it is recommended to properly water the flowers, since excess moisture weakens the plant, and it can easily get sick. You can also treat the soil with a formalin solution as a preventive measure, however, flowers can be planted in such soil only after 4 weeks.
Of the insects on this plant, only aphids can be found. To destroy it, the bush is treated with Antitlin or Biotlin.
Dicenter (Broken Heart). Unpretentious Plants For Shady Places
Typical problems
| Falling leaves | Violation of the watering schedule. Drying out or stagnant moisture in the soil. | Watered regularly, but guided by soil moisture. The top layer should dry completely. |
| Drying of leaves and dropping of shoots | Excess sun. | They shade on the southern windows. |
| Yellowing of leaves | Air humidity below 50%. | Increase the humidity of the air, temporarily increase the frequency of spraying. |
| Partial leaf fall in autumn | Normal phenomenon. | You don't need to do anything. |
Pests are rarely affected. Sometimes a spider mite can settle on a liana. The pest is fought with soapy water and insecticides. Root rot is a great danger. The diseased plant is transplanted with the removal of damaged roots, treated with fungicides.
For the rest, Mühlenbeckia is an unpretentious plant that is resistant to pests and unfavorable conditions. It grows quickly and fits into any interior.
Features of feeding room albition
When organizing fertilizing for albition, one feature of this plant must be taken into account. Belonging to the legume family, albition is completely capable of extracting nitrogen for itself by means of root associations with nitrogen-fixing bacteria. Therefore, instead of the usual nitrogen-containing mineral fertilizers, it is better to introduce EM preparations into the soil for albition.
In this regard, the preparation "Baikal EM-1", which contains nitrogen-fixing bacteria, is well suited for soil enrichment. It must be diluted according to the instructions and the solution must be added to the soil in the spring, a week after transplantation.
In addition, during the active growing season, albition can be fed with organic fertilizers:
| Name | Preparation of working solution | Application | Feeding frequency |
| Potassium humate "Prompter" | Dilute 50 ml of the drug in 5 l of water | Under the root, replacing one of the waterings with plain water. | 1 time per month |
| "GUMI-OMI Potassium" | Dissolve 25 g of granules in 5 l of water | Under the root, replacing one of the waterings | 1 time per month |
As soon as albicia begins to shed leaves in the fall, feeding stops. It will be possible to renew it in the spring, a month after the transplant.
If the volume of the pot is still enough for the plant and it has not been transplanted in the current year, feeding can be started immediately after the buds wake up.
Recommendations for growing muhlenbeckia, home care
Lighting. It is recommended to place the plant pot on the window sills facing east or west.
Content temperature. In order for muhlenbeckia to feel comfortable, a temperature of 20-25 degrees is required during the period of growth activation. In the winter period of rest, it is preferable to reduce heat indicators to 10-14 degrees. The plant should be protected from drafts.
Air humidity when growing muhlenbeckia is not an important indicator, it perfectly tolerates the dry air of living quarters. If in the spring-summer months the heat values exceed 23 degrees, it is recommended to carry out daily spraying with warm and soft water. If this is not done, then the deciduous mass of Mühlenbeckia will rather quickly lose its decorative effect and attractiveness. In winter, when the heat decreases, spraying is not necessary. With dry air in winter, it is recommended to increase the humidity by spraying, installing a number of air humidifiers or vessels with water.
Watering
The root system of Mühlenbeckia reacts very sensitively to waterlogging of the substrate, so much attention is paid to irrigation. All water that is glass in the stand under the flowerpot must be immediately removed, otherwise its stagnation can lead to the onset of decay
However, drying the soil for the plant is harmful, otherwise the leaves immediately dry out and the shoots fly around. Humidification will be optimal in such a mode that the upper layer of the substrate dries out and is watered immediately, that is, the soil should always be in medium humidity. The recommended frequency of watering in the spring-summer period is 2-3 times a week. Water is used only soft and warm, with heat indicators of 20-24 degrees.
Fertilizers for Mühlenbeckia, it must be applied from May until the end of summer days. The frequency of such dressings should be at least once every 14 days. It is recommended to use preparations containing mineral complexes intended for indoor flowering plants.How strange, although this shrub is distinguished by a lush leafy cover, trace elements are most suitable for it, intended for those representatives of the flora in which the formation of flowers is taking place.
Muehlenbeckia transplant. It is recommended, regardless of age and size, to transplant this plant annually. For this operation, the time is selected in April. When changing the pot, it is important to remember that the root system in Mühlenbeckia is quite vulnerable, and it does not tolerate all kinds of contact with it, even if they do not relate to injuries and damage. Therefore, the transplant is carried out by the transshipment method - they try not to destroy the earthen lump.
The most common substrate for this plant is suitable and its acidity parameters also do not matter much. However, experienced growers recommend that the pH is in the range of 5.8-6.2 units.
It is important that the soil is fertile and has sufficient looseness. You can use purchased soil mixtures for decorative deciduous plants or any universal substrates.
Often, Mühlenbeckia is used as a rootstock for large plants that are grown in tubs and pots with a shrub and woody form of growth. Since its stems have the property of creeping along the ground, they are used to decorate the soil in flowerpots. Mühlenbeckia looks beautiful as a ground cover next to ficuses and palms, pomegranates and ferns, as well as dieffenbachia and laurel trees. However, plants growing in large and spacious containers can withstand such a "neighbor", since a highly developed root system of Mühlenbeckia can take away "living space" from the main culture. If such plants are transplanted, then it is performed simultaneously.
