Garden chrysanthemum

All about transplanting chrysanthemums in the fall

A young plant is transplanted 1 p. per year, and the place of growth of older flowers is changed 1 p. in 2-3 g. If you do not transplant the chrysanthemum, then it will start to hurt, and then stop blooming. So that this action does not harm the flower, you need to create the right conditions for its growth:

• abundant amount of sunlight. Finding a chrysanthemum in the shade will lead to crushing and blanching of its leaves or their complete absence. The daily rate of concealment of a flower from the sun should not exceed 4 hours. Therefore, it is advisable to choose a place for it on a hill;
• the soil should not be acidic, dry, or excessively moist. The location of groundwater in the surface layers of the soil and the lack of sunlight will lead to stagnation of water, which will have a detrimental effect on the root system of the plant;
• it is unacceptable for the transplantation site to choose soil with high acidity or incapable of retaining moisture (sandstone, dry peat).

Neglecting these rules will lead to rapid decay of the flower.

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When to start a transplant

It is recommended to replant the bush in the last days of September or at the beginning of October. To carry out such a manipulation, a cloudy and cool day is chosen, when the night air temperature drops to zero degrees.

The choice of planting material for chrysanthemums

Before separating the cuttings for transplantation, the shoots are examined for signs indicating their ability to preserve their life when growing conditions change:

• the presence of root shoots. Without them, the plant's ability to tolerate low temperatures decreases;
• the aerial part of the planting material should have a specific green color, indicating that there are no signs of pest or disease infestation.

Important!
For transplanting, it is advised to choose cuttings that have already faded.

Planted plants must expend energy on rooting, and flowering buds will draw out all the juices from them. This will prevent the chrysanthemum from taking root before the onset of frost.

How to prepare the soil

If the groundwater is close to the surface layer of the soil, drainage must be installed in order to protect the root system from being in conditions of high humidity. For this, coarse sand is used.

Then the soil must be well loosened so that it passes air and water well. Also, an obligatory point of soil preparation is the introduction of fertilizers (compost, manure, peat).

Adding more than 0.5-06 kg of nutrients to 1 hole will increase the volume of foliage on the shoot, and this will reduce the number of flowers on the bush.

The process of transplanting chrysanthemums in the fall

After choosing the place of growth of the chrysanthemum, the gardener must follow these steps:

• dig a hole 40 cm deep;
• pour a layer of drainage and fertilizers;
• chop off the roots of the cuttings chosen for transplanting with a shovel, around a circumference of 20-30 cm. This will enable the chrysanthemum to take root faster due to the formation of new roots. If the soil is dry, then first you need to pour water under the root, and then carefully dig out the cutting with a lump of earth;
• pour Kornevin's solution and a little water into the hole;
• place the seedling inside;
• sprinkle the roots with earth and water abundantly.

Caring for the transplanted chrysanthemum consists in the periodic implementation of abundant watering before the onset of frost, weeding, loosening the top layer of soil and adding earth in places of its subsidence. To improve the properties of the soil, it is recommended to cover it with mulch (sawdust, straw). Depending on the type of flower, the tops (small-flowered) or lateral shoots (large-flowered) are trimmed.

Possible problems

Most often, garden stunted chrysanthemums suffer from caterpillar attacks

That is why you should pay attention to the appropriate chemicals, periodically spray the plant with them in order to avoid the invasion of these pests.

If you suddenly find blackened foliage or bare stems on your bush, this indicates that the soil under the plant is excessively moist, and the bush itself has too many inflorescences. All this is a sign of powdery mildew disease. At the first detection of this disease, it is necessary to immediately take measures to eliminate it. For this, damaged foliage and stems are cut off from the bush. Then you need to get rid of the top layer of soil, where the spores of this fungus are located. It is they who harm the culture. The top layer is replaced with a new one. Flowers should be sprayed with a solution of copper sulfate and soap. To do this, 10 g of copper sulfate must be diluted in 250 ml of water. A solution of vitriol is added to 10 liters of warm water, where soap was previously dissolved. As a rule, this amount of solution is enough for 5-6 sprays with a break of one week.

Please note that the culture may get burned if there are hot days for a long time. You can recognize such a burn by brown or yellowish leaves that have begun to dry out.

Such foliage is immediately removed from the shrub.

To protect the chrysanthemum from root rot, Fitosporin is added to the irrigation liquid. It is possible to water a stunted chrysanthemum with such water both for prophylaxis and courses.

Table 1: diseases and pests of bush chrysanthemums

The correct application of dressings requires special attention. Over-saturation of the soil with nitrogen fertilizers causes the plant to stretch out, loss of color by the buds and the appearance of leaf fading. The lack of such dressings is accompanied by yellowness, as well as falling foliage, crushing flowers. Phosphorus is necessary for the plant at the flowering stage and during the growing season. Phosphate fertilizers are recommended to be applied in early spring along with organic matter.

Most often, a garden and indoor plant gets sick, and also partially or completely loses its attractiveness with improper care or in conditions of non-compliance with the rules of maintenance.

Popular varieties of perennial chrysanthemums

Below are the most popular varieties of perennial garden chrysanthemums grown in the middle lane:

"Autumn Sun" - bright yellow flowers with a honey aroma. Bush up to 60 cm in height. Blooms from August to frost.

"Autumn sunset" - red, non-double flowers. Bush up to 45 cm in height. Blooms until frost.

"Koreanochka" - flowers of a bronze color with a golden edge, the height of the bush is up to 65 cm.

"Pink chamomile" - flowers are brown-pink, non-double. The height of the bush is 60 cm. It blooms from August to September.

"Modesty" - the flowers are white with a pink tint, the height of the bush is 60 cm. It blooms from August to September.

"Golden tips" - copper-red flowers with a golden border at the ends, semi-double. The height of the bush is up to 65 cm. It blooms to frost.

"Daisy" - white flowers with a cream shade, semi-double. The height of the bush is up to 65 cm. It blooms from August to September.

"Border yellow" - bright yellow, non-double flowers. The bush is up to 50 cm high. It blooms from August to October.

"Late red" - flowers are velvety red, non-double. The height of the bush is up to 65 cm. It blooms from September to frost.

Korean chrysanthemums are irreplaceable in landscaping. Compositions from them are striking in their brightness, originality and resistance to adverse conditions.

Look at the photo: these varieties of perennial garden chrysanthemums go well with woody species and other floral plants:

Examples of a successful combination can be chrysanthemums with spruces, junipers, tamarisks, or with flower perennials - solidago, asters, tagetes. Chrysanthemums are beautiful against the background of the lawn as tapeworm plantings.

Varieties and varieties of garden chrysanthemums

Garden chrysanthemum is a perennial plant, the height of which depends on the variety and can vary from 15 to 150 cm. Currently, a huge number of varieties of chrysanthemums are known, which, according to some features and characteristics, are combined into groups.

The size of the inflorescences

Perennial chrysanthemums are divided into three groups according to the diameter of the flowers:

• small-flowered;
• mid-flowered;
• large-flowered.

Small-flowered or Korean plants can be either simple or double. One bush grows a significant number of inflorescences with a flower diameter of 2 to 10 cm. The bushes themselves in height can reach from 25 to 120 cm. The leaves of the plant are very similar to the shape of oak leaves. Flowers stand out for their frost resistance, unpretentious to the composition of the soil and easy to care for. Their flowering begins in mid-September and lasts until the very frost.

Mid-flowered or ornamental chrysanthemums can be grown not only for garden decoration, but also for cutting. They also grow well in pots at home. They can be used to decorate balconies, loggias and terraces. Ornamental shrubs grow in height from 30 to 70 cm, and have a flower diameter of 10 to 18 cm.

Large-flowered chrysanthemums are spectacular tall plants. The length of their stem can reach from 80 to 120 cm in height. They bloom in large flowers with a diameter of 10 to 25 cm. This type of chrysanthemum does not tolerate frost well. Only some of its varieties can winter outdoors. Such flowers are intended mainly for cutting into bouquets.

The shape and height of the bush

According to the shape and height of the bush, garden chrysanthemums are divided into three types, each of which has many varieties.

Tall. The stems of this type of garden chrysanthemum can be quite tall and need support in the form of frames, metal nets or wooden pegs. Supports are installed during the planting of the bushes. Plants planted in a group can be used as a hedge. The most popular varieties of tall garden chrysanthemums are:

• "Amber Lady" - the plant is distinguished by golden inflorescences.
• "Umka" - chrysanthemums with white flowers, the shape of which resembles a pompom.
• "Daughter of Rosetta" is strewn with flat inflorescences with flowers of pink and white shades.

Medium-sized. Bushes growing from 30 to 50 cm look very impressive both on a flower bed and along paths, fences, arbors. With their help, you can realize all kinds of design fantasies. The best varieties of medium-sized garden chrysanthemums are:

• "Dawn" - the plant stands out for its yellow-brown color, which is just right for the autumn mood.
• Dune is a truly magical variety, whose flowers can change their color during flowering. They bloom yellow-brown, and after a few days they turn yellow-gold.
• "Lily" will help to add brightness to any composition with its dark crimson flowers.

Curb. Small plants grow up to only 30 cm in height. This type of chrysanthemum is considered one of the most beautiful garden flowers. Bushes of curb chrysanthemums have the shape of a ball, strewn with small flowers. The most popular varieties in this group are:

• "Barbara" is a plant with delicate lilac-purple flowers.
• "Evening Lights" - the variety stands out for its scarlet inflorescences, which resemble a festive fireworks.
• "Talisman" is strewn with bright beetroot-crimson flowers.

Flower shape

Garden chrysanthemums have five different kinds of flower shapes:

1. Pompom flowers are an assembly of tongues that are assembled into a ball that resembles a pompom.
2. The anemic flowers consist of large petals, which are arranged in one, two or three rows. The flowers themselves are small in size and very similar to anemone flowers.
3. Single-row and double-row inflorescences are bordered with flowers similar to tongues. In the center of such inflorescences, small tubular flowers grow.The border of flowers can be arranged in one or two rows.
4. Semi-double flowers consist of three rows of reeds that are arranged around a central flower.
5. Terry inflorescences are similar to semi-double ones, but their flowers are more lush, since they are different in appearance and shape.

Perennial chrysanthemums - planting and care in the open field

It is recommended to transplant pre-purchased or home-grown seedlings into open ground in late May - early June. Chrysanthemums are very fond of the sun, so even a light partial shade is not suitable for them - the plant will bloom poorly and may die.

The composition of the soil should be rich in organic matter and breathable, therefore, when preparing a flower bed for chrysanthemums, it should be dug deeply - by 50-60 cm.Pre-add manure and humus at the rate of 0.5 buckets per 1 sq. m. In this case, it should be remembered that too much organic matter provokes foliage growth, while flowering is scarce and scarce.

It is important to choose the right watering regime for the plants. Varieties with small and hard foxes require less water than chrysanthemums with large, soft-touch leaves, which have a much larger area of ​​moisture evaporation.

Overfilling, as well as underfilling, can cause the buds to drop.

Pruning and pinching chrysanthemums

Pinching and pruning are mandatory procedures for caring for chrysanthemums of all types. When the main shoot reaches 10-12 cm, its top is pinched off for the first time. After the side shoots reach the same height, they should also be pinched. This will help to form a beautiful plant head and prolong its growth.

During the flowering period, wilted buds should be removed in order to provoke the blooming of new flowers. When growing some large-flowered chrysanthemums, gardeners cut off all lateral shoots to obtain a strong and large flower stalk.

Top dressing of perennial chrysanthemums

The first feeding of chrysanthemums can be done within 10-15 days after planting, during the growth of roots and shoots. For this, the usual infusion of mullein is suitable at the rate of 0.5 liters per plant. A similar feeding should be carried out during the period of bud ovary. During the flowering period, the plant will respond well to complex fertilizers, for example, Kemira Lux.

Chrysanthemums: varieties and varieties

It is not in vain that they say about perennial chrysanthemums that they inspire optimism in a convinced pessimist. After all, these lush and fragrant flowering plants can make bright not only a personal plot, but also the life of a gardener who grows picturesque plants and horticultural crops.

Chrysanthemums can be completely unusual and bright colors.

Every time you buy a bag of an unknown variety, you are amazed at the duration of its flowering, the magnificent colors, the height of the plant, the shape and texture of the petals, as well as the degree of their doubleness.

Breeders divide chrysanthemums into:

• simple forms;
• large-flowered;
• terry.

There is also a gradation in color, flowering periods, flower size and decorativeness. Many subspecies of chrysanthemums are intended only for subsequent cutting and making bouquets - these are the so-called bouquet chrysanthemums. Their height can vary from 15 to 150 cm. Such a wide range allows you to decorate entire flower gardens with a variety of cultures, which will bloom and delight the eye at different times - from mid-June to the first snow.

Chrysanthemum flowers of various shapes and sizes

As for the color of the buds, it is impossible to immediately list all the colors and shades. There is an unthinkable number of colors that excite the imagination: white and lemon, orange and purple, crimson red, lilac and emerald.

The historical homeland of chrysanthemums is Northern China, where residents were actively engaged in the selection of this amazing and, fortunately, unpretentious garden culture.Thanks to the merits of professional breeders, today it is possible to grow chic varieties of perennial chrysanthemum with excellent consumer properties.

The most widespread and well-known variety - "Early Yellow" is close in decorativeness to Japanese anemones. Today there are about 700 varieties of these garden plants.

Shrub chrysanthemums are very popular, which are equally suitable for arranging the landscape of the garden, and for cutting.

There are also feathery double flowers with a very dense and lush planting of petals.

Due to this, they take the shape of a ball, completely covering the flower bed.

Bristly chrysanthemums attract attention with their thin and slightly twisted petals, which outwardly resemble graceful brushes.

Pompom varieties of chrysanthemums boast an ideal spherical shape. Dense terry, bright colors and long flowering in any growing conditions are the undoubted advantages of this variety.

Semi-double varieties include a wide variety of shapes, colors and structures

A prominent representative of this group is a garden plant with slightly drooping inflorescences. Their middle is almost not closed, and along the edges there are petals of the most unexpected shades and shapes.

Simple varieties are represented by very graceful and at the same time uncomplicated inflorescences, outwardly resembling garden chamomile in shape.

Perennial chrysanthemums of anemone-like varieties are easy to recognize by their simple shape and slightly convex inflorescence core. It seems to rise above the petals and reach for the sun. These are the most delicate representatives of garden chrysanthemums, which smell pleasantly and create a good impression.

Spoon-shaped chrysanthemums are rare varieties. Already by the name, one can understand that the flowers are somehow magically connected with spoons. The thing is that the shape of each petal resembles a teaspoon.

Types of perennial garden chrysanthemums

On the territory of Russia, mainly varieties of Korean chrysanthemum are grown - hybrid perennials resistant to frost.

Chrysanthemum is a short day flower. Flower budding and flowering begins when daylight hours begin to shorten.

Distinguish between large-flowered and small-flowered or Korean perennials, according to the flowering time they are:

1. early - bloom from mid-August;
2. medium flowering - flowering from the beginning of September;
3. late - bloom from late September - early October.

Large-flowered

Large-flowered varieties:

• Gazelle;
• Snow White;
• Alec Bedser;
• Valentina Tereshkova;
• Wally Roof;
• Artgold;
• Snow Elf;
• Primavara;
• Owl Green;
• Apple blossom;
• Aurora.

Snow White

The Snow White variety was bred by Russian breeders, the flower reaches 19 cm in diameter. Snow White's stem grows up to 80 cm in height.

The middle of the flower is convex, painted yellow, the petals are snow-white, do not change color when wilted. Snow White does not tolerate frost well, it is better to dig it up for the winter and store it in a basement at a temperature of +1 ° C until spring.

Owl Green

Feeling Green is a Dutch hybrid with lettuce-colored inflorescences. A flower with a diameter of 3-7 cm is similar in shape to a dense pompom, the bush grows to 60-70 cm.

They hibernate badly. For open field breeding, they are used only in the southern regions.

Apple blossom

Chrysanthemum blooms in September, blooms with large pink-white flowers, reaching 15 cm in diameter. The height of the bush reaches 60 cm, the stems are strong, strong.

Apple blossom is used for cutting, decorating the infield. In winter, it requires shelter from frost.

Korean

Small-flowered or Korean perennials:

• Alyonushka;
• Alexandrite;
• Amber;
• Artgold;
• Summer;
• Alpine;
• Apple blossom;
• Bacon;
• Dina;
• Sun;
• Umka.

Alyonushka

Alyonushka's bush grows up to 50 cm, flowers are small, 5 cm in diameter, bloom in September. For the winter, the plant is covered.

Amber

Chrysanthemum grows up to 50 cm, inflorescences are yellow-orange in color, 8 cm across. Amber tolerates frosty winters well, gives abundant growth.

Single-headed

Single-headed varieties have one cap on the stem - a large double inflorescence with a diameter of 12-25 cm. The height of the stem reaches 50-100 cm. Flowers are used for cutting, in a bouquet they can stand up to 3 weeks.

One-headed perennials include:

• Wilhelmina;
• Astroid;
• Anabel;
• Avignon;
• Balthazar;
• Bowl;
• Milka;
• Momoko;
• Safina.

Anabel

The stem of the plant is up to 70 cm, a terry cap weighing 100 g in diameter is 15 cm. The elongated petals are arranged in tiers, giving the flower a star-shaped appearance.

The center of the flower is greenish, emerald green leaves look decorative when cut.

Safina

Needle chrysanthemum Safina of Dutch selection is distinguished by large spider-like inflorescences of double color.

A terry hat with a diameter of 12-14 cm can be painted brown-yellow or pink-yellow. The needle-like petals are curved at the tips, which gives the flower a disheveled appearance.

Multiflora

Chrysanthemum Chinese or multiflora is a spherical bush with many small inflorescences. At the peak of flowering, the chrysanthemum is completely covered with flowers.

By the timing of flowering multiflora:

• early - Ares, Blanstorm, Branbeach, Daphne Rose;
• average flowering period - Bella Anna, Bella Pink, Brangala, Gigi Coral, Ivona;
• late - Branfountain, Camina Red, Coco Chanel.

Branbeach

Branbeach multiflora varieties are distinguished by early flowering and winter hardiness. The most winter-hardy of them is Branbeach Orange.

The Branbeach Sunny is the earliest to bloom. Branbeach Sunny bush 30 cm high blooms in early August, blooms with abundant bright yellow flowers with a diameter of 4 cm.

Branbeach White blooms from mid-August. The low bushes of this multiflora are covered with snow-white small double flowers with a yellowish middle.

Cascading

Perennials Aurora, Natalie, Etude, Zolotaya Niva can grow in a cascade. To achieve growth in a cascade, at the stage of 8-10 leaves, pinch the crown of the seedling, and after a month pinch the tops of the lateral shoots, leaving 1-2 upper shoots.

Natalie

The pom-pom inflorescences of the Korean perennial Natalie bloom in September. The diameter of the inflorescences is 4-6 cm, the bush grows up to 70 cm, it tolerates wintering in the open field.

The blossoming inflorescence is white with a yellowish middle. The bud is painted in a pale orange color, withering, the flower becomes pale pink.

Aurora

The branchy Korean needle variety Aurora belongs to the medium-sized, blooms from September with red double flowers with a yellow lining.

The diameter of the inflorescence is 8-10 cm. The plant is winter-hardy, in the southern regions it tolerates winter without shelter.

History and origins

The millennial history of chrysanthemums originates in the country of the cult of flowers - China. Even then, powerful emperors admired the stunning flowers. In some periods of time, they were compared to gold and profitable exchanges were carried out.

There are many legends about the appearance of a flower. One of the most revered says that the evil dragon wanted to steal the sun, but the sun burned his paws. Furious, he tore it apart. The sparks that fell to the ground turned into chrysanthemums. From Greek, the name of the plant is translated as golden.

In garden conditions, chrysanthemum was cultivated in the 5-6th century BC. The first written mention comes from Confucius. The most accurate description of ancient flowers was made in 1753 by the father of modern taxonomy, Carl Linnaeus. Surprisingly, this plant has never been found in the wild, until now.

The progenitor of all varieties is Indian and mulberry chrysanthemum. The first cultivated species had small, only yellow flowers. For the first time in Europe, the plant appeared in the 17th century; Russian gardeners were lucky enough to acquire specimens only by the end of the 19th century.

Care and planting rules

Perennial garden varieties of chrysanthemums are a great option for decorating your site. Most varieties are not particularly demanding for care, so anyone can grow them. Any permeable substrate enriched with useful microelements is suitable as a soil for planting. However, flowers are strongly discouraged from replanting too often from place to place, so before planting, you should apply as much weakly concentrated fertilizer as possible to the hole. To do this, you can use leaf humus or cow dung. Also, a small amount of peat looks good in the substrate.

By the way about feeding. If you regularly apply organic and mineral fertilizers under the root, then the flowering will be much more lush and abundant. This should be done two weeks before the plants begin to tie their first buds. For this purpose, you can use complex organic and mineral fertilizers, which can be purchased at any specialized store. Alternatively, you can prepare top dressing yourself by diluting 1 kilogram of manure in 10 liters of water or by making an infusion of medium-strength compost.

If you decide to plant seeds, then you can do it directly in the open ground in the middle of spring or in cups by growing seedlings. The planting technology of these two options is practically no different, however, in special containers you will get a higher percentage of germination. Seeds should not be buried too deeply into the substrate, since it will be difficult for them to break through the soil to the light. Also, in the case of cups, you should take care of creating a small greenhouse, covering the seedlings with glass or film (do not forget to wipe off the condensate in a timely manner). The grown seedlings are recommended to be planted in the ground at the end of summer so that they can take root in the fall.

Chrysanthemum transplant

From time to time, it is recommended to transplant the garden perennial chrysanthemum. The fact is that even the most fertilized soil is depleted over time. The optimal balance of minerals and organic substances in the soil composition is very important for this flora. Experienced gardeners carry out this manipulation annually in May - there are no night frosts, but it is not yet time for an active summer sun. Transplantation is carried out as follows:

1. A new location is being selected.
2. A flower in an old flower bed is well watered - this way there is less chance of damaging the roots.
3. After extraction, the uterine bushes should be divided so that each separated part has its own root.
4. Separated shoots are planted each in its own hole, watered well. The distance between the seedlings must be at least half a meter.
5. After five days, the transplanted flowers are recommended to be fertilized with suitable means.

Important! Only golden flowers that have wintered in the open field can be transplanted.

What is garden chrysanthemum

Chrysanthemum is a herbaceous plant from the Asteraceae family (another name is Astrovykh). It is called Chrysanthemum in Latin. The people sometimes call her a golden, or sunny, flower. This is because most species (of which there are 29 in total) have yellow or orange shades of inflorescences.

For plants such as chrysanthemums, perennial planting and care in the open field does not require any special approach. This flora is quite unpretentious, while beautiful. The shrubs are able to survive in the Russian winter, they bloom late and for a long time.

Interesting. With proper care after cutting, these flowers can last up to 30 days in a bouquet.

Garden chrysanthemum is divided into varieties depending on the shape of the flowers:

• One - or two-row. They have one or a pair of petals, respectively. For example, like the Tricolor variety.
• Semi-double. There are only three petal layers here.
• Terry. There are many petals, they all differ in shape, form a lush inflorescence.
• Anemoid. The flowers of this chrysanthemum resemble anemones.
• Pompom.Numerous small petals form a pompom. They are often called spherical.

Chrysanthemums bloom in the garden late - in August, flowering continues in autumn. This flora is able to withstand frosts down to -10 degrees Celsius.

In culture

Korean chrysanthemums are short-day plants (reduction of daylight hours stimulates the formation and formation of inflorescences).

In the middle zone of the European part of Russia, it is preferable to grow Russian, Finnish, German, English and Dutch varieties; French and Chinese - best used in the south.

Korean chrysanthemums are fast growing, drought-resistant and light-requiring (for abundant flowering, it takes five hours of sun per day). They do not tolerate closely located groundwater.

The soil should be loose, rich in humus. It is recommended to mulch the soil with chopped pine bark, needles, or oat straw. It is recommended to lower the acidity of peat soils by adding dolomite flour. The optimum pH is 6.0-6.5.

The first feeding is carried out with nitrogen fertilizers at the initial stage of shoot growth. Next - 10-15 days later, with cow dung or bird droppings. During the budding period, fertilizing with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers is desirable.

For the formation of a bush and abundant flowering, pinching is performed throughout June. The interval between the last pinch and the beginning of flowering is approximately 4 weeks.

Mass flowering of chrysanthemums occurs at the end of August - September. Some varieties have earlier or later flowering times.

After the first autumn frosts, chrysanthemums are cut off. Pruning can be high or low, right at the root. With the onset of stable frosty weather, the bushes are covered with spruce branches or cut branches of deciduous trees, and on top of them with foliage. According to other sources, in mid-October, it is recommended to sprinkle the plants with a layer of earth or peat to a height of about 20 cm. In the spring, the covering soil layer is removed. Some collectors of chrysanthemums in Moscow recommend cutting off only the tops of the shoots, not hilling or covering. Only a few branches of spruce branches are stuck around the bush for snow retention.

In the spring, with the beginning of the growth of shoots, it is necessary to remove all last year's remains of the stems, and it is advisable to unscrew the central dead shoot from the ground, since its growth does not resume. The growth of the bush occurs due to underground lateral shoots.

Korean chrysanthemums are grown in one place without transplanting for no more than 2-3 years. Once every 3 years, the bush must be divided. According to other sources, the successful cultivation of most varieties is possible without transplanting for 5 years.

Heat-loving varieties for the winter are dug up and stored in a bright and cold room at a temperature of +2 - +6 ° C, and a relative humidity of no more than 80%.

Korean chrysanthemums can be propagated by seeds, dividing bushes and cuttings. The most common breeding method is by dividing the bush and cuttings, which are planted in open ground in the second half of May - early June. Planting scheme for cut varieties - 30 × 30 cm, varieties with spreading bushes - 40 × 40. When grafting, all the characteristic features and properties of a particular variety are preserved. Plants obtained from cuttings of early rooting periods (no later than early April) are the most resistant during wintering.

By dividing the bush, Korean chrysanthemums are recommended to be propagated in the spring.

With seed propagation, chrysanthemums do not give stable forms and are strongly split. Local seedlings that have successfully overwintered are more adapted to low temperatures and other conditions in this zone. Seeds can produce plants with non-double or semi-double chamomile inflorescences, which are well pollinated by bees and other insects, but artificial pollination with spatial isolation of parental pairs significantly increases the production of valuable decorative forms.

Early ripening forms of Korean chrysanthemums with a short growing season bloom in August - early September, they set seeds well and ripen successfully until the end of October. Plants of late flowering forms are transplanted into greenhouses to obtain seeds in August - early September, where they maintain a temperature of 16–20 ° C, high illumination and good ventilation. At the same time, the seeds ripen in November - December.

The collection of seeds is carried out in several stages as it ripens. The seed heads are spread in a thin layer on paper in a warm (15-20 °), well-ventilated room for ripening and drying. After 15-20 days, they are packed before sowing. Store the seeds in a cool dry room at a temperature of 2 to 5-6 °. Under such conditions, they remain viable for about two years.

Korean chrysanthemums bloom 5-6 months after sowing, which is carried out in February - March. The seedlings are transferred to the open ground in April - May, depending on weather conditions ..