Experienced gardeners recommend!
1. Plant a couple of bushes in the garden for mutual pollination.
2. If harmful insects appear on one bush, it is worth treating all the bushes.
3. So that in winter the currant bushes are not damaged by rodent animals (mice, hares, etc.), wrap the branches of the lower part of the bushes with plastic bags (old elastic women's tights may also be suitable)
4. After planting a young seedling, make attachments around the circumference of thickened branches, thin sticks or planks. With their help, the bush will not fall apart.
A wild-growing currant beauty does not need much attention and special care, which is why she has gained popularity among gardeners. Against this background, an unprecedented crop (up to 8 kg) can be harvested from one developed bush. And the recommended pair of bushes in your garden guarantees you, in addition to hedges and a beautiful view, a supply of vitamins for a whole year!
Wild currant
Rust on flowers
Most often, the disease affects such flower crops as antirrinum (snapdragon), bright balsam, upright carnation, common iris, clematis, bells, as well as mallow, pelargonium, bush peony, climbing rose and chrysanthemum.
The disease can manifest itself at any stage of plant development. Signs of rust appear on leaves, stems, leaf stalks, calyxes, and seed pods. Most often these are brownish-gray pads that give off volatile spores.
At the initial stage of the disease, yellow spots with a diameter of up to 1.5 mm appear at the bottom of the leaves. Then chocolate brown protrusions form on them (they are somewhat reminiscent of small crowns with a yellow rim). The leaves begin to dry out, and the tissue on the stems cracks, the stems break even from a light touch.
If the disease continues to progress, then in the middle of the warm season, the infected shoots will begin to die in the plant, and a little later it will dry out entirely.
Rust develops most actively in cool weather with an abundance of rain or excessive watering and in thickened plantings. Excessive doses of nitrogen fertilizers also contribute to the development of the disease.
Prophylaxis
As a preventive measure, you should abandon the excessive application of nitrogen fertilizers, thin out the plantings, carry out moderate watering, and also remove from the site in time and burn all plant residues.
Control measures
In the early stages, you can try simply cutting out the infected shoots and removing the leaves. And if the disease is very widespread, then it is necessary to use fungicides: Abiga-Peak, Baktofit, 1% Bordeaux liquid, Topaz, Fitosporin-M. In this case, the first treatment should be carried out as soon as you notice the first signs of the disease, and then it can be repeated after one to two weeks.
Rust, despite its harmless appearance, is a very serious disease. Inspect plants often to detect early disease. If you suddenly notice the first signs, take action immediately, do not postpone treatment "for later." And do not forget about preventive measures - if they are carried out on time, then you will not have to resort to the use of chemicals.
Fungal diseases of flowers
Diseases caused by fungi can also damage irises. And sometimes it is not easier to fight them than with other types of diseases. The main ones should be described below.
Alternaria
In this disease, the first symptom is blackening of the edge of the foliage with the formation of a dark plaque. In the future, this foliage dries up and disappears.
The affected foliage should be immediately removed and burned, otherwise the fungus will enter the soil and remain there until next year (its spores).Therefore, the soil where diseased flowers grew should be sprayed with copper sulfate or Bordeaux liquid.
Rust
The main symptoms of the disease are the appearance of brown pustules at the ends of the foliage, which further lead to yellowness and drying of the leaves.
In the fall, a plaque appears on diseased plants, where the spores of the fungus are located. They are able to withstand even a severe cold snap, and with the arrival of heat they are transferred to healthy plants.
For preventive purposes, good drainage should be arranged in flower beds, and diseased foliage should be destroyed.
Healthy foliage should be treated with sulfur-containing products (garden sulfur, Tiovit, etc.). flowers should be sprayed every 14 days until all symptoms of the disease disappear.
Ascochitosis
Dark spots, the edges of which are watery, are the first symptoms of ascochitis. In the future, the damaged leaves dry out earlier than expected.
The fungi that cause this disease can hibernate in the soil, therefore, as a preventive measure, flowers should be sprayed before the buds appear and after flowering with preparations containing Cu.
Heterosporia
Spots of a round or oval shape on yellow leaves are the main symptoms of this fungal disease. Subsequently, these markings become brown with a gray tint. Then the spots begin to grow, a bloom of spores appears on the surface of the leaves.
Spraying flowers with preparations containing copper is usually an effective treatment for this disease. All diseased parts of irises are collected and destroyed.
Gray rot
This disease is characterized by yellowing of the leaves almost immediately after the last flower dries. In this case, several fungi attack the irises at once. One penetrates the soil and infects the roots with dry rot. As a result, rounded seals appear on the roots.
Another fungus appears during wet and warm weather. At the same time, brown spots and a gray tint appear on the foliage and buds. Appearing yellow spots are a symptom of the formation of spores, which will "hide" in the soil for the winter.
To avoid this disease of irises, you should choose only healthy specimens for planting, plant them in well-drained soil, and also destroy diseased plants in a timely manner.
Many iris diseases develop so rapidly that all plantings can be destroyed in record time. Despite the fact that these plants are considered one of the most unpretentious, if the rules of care are violated, even they can be affected by a number of extremely dangerous infectious diseases.
It is worth noting that the increase in iris infections is largely the result of the work of breeders. Due to the desire to obtain varieties, the flowers of which would differ in unique shades or shape, plants are bred that have a reduced resistance to various pathogenic microflora.
Currently, there are more than 800 varieties of these plants in the world. Irises have gained particular popularity, as they can be an excellent decoration for any flower bed. These plants are distinguished by their vegetative propagation method. Irises have fleshy tubers that are rich in nutrients and water, making them an ideal breeding ground for a variety of viruses, bacteria and fungi. Improper care significantly increases the risk of disease damage to plants. Factors contributing to the development of iris diseases include:
- thickened plantings;
- systematic waterlogging of the soil;
- overabundance of organic matter;
- frost damage to tubers;
- deeply buried tubers;
- bushes that have not been renewed for a long time;
- heavy soil.
Such conditions create an ideal environment for the defeat of iris rhizomes with various infectious diseases. In the case when all the rules for caring for these plants are followed, even if they belong to especially whimsical varieties, the risk of their disease being affected is minimal.
Reproduction
Planting by cuttings ensures that our plants will have the exact characteristics of the desired variety. When planting with cuttings in the spring in the root area, it is necessary to cut the cuttings from an adult plant. And in the summer for such a planting, stem cuttings are cut.
Cut them with a knife, cut them with charcoal.
The cuttings are left for several hours to dry the wound a little. Then the resulting cuttings are planted in pots with nutritious soil, do not forget to water them regularly. New leaves that appear will tell you about normal rooting.
Grown cuttings are planted in a permanent place.
This method is used by experienced gardeners, because the survival rate of cuttings is very low.
To grow mallow, the seedling method is used, the earlier you plant it, the faster the plant will bloom for the first time. But with an early planting, it is better to highlight the plant additionally.
Sowing of seeds begins in March-April. The grown seedlings are planted in a permanent place on the site. Planting time of seedlings in June or July. It rarely happens that a plant will bloom in the first year.
Rust: control and prevention measures.
1. If fungi of different hosts threaten - do not allow close proximity of useful plants and those that may be the main or intermediate "hosts". Here:
1.1. it is important to determine which of the "owners" is more valuable. For example, having laid an apple orchard, do you want to arrange a juniper border for it? The chances of apple rust development are considerable, and such a “fence” is unacceptable! But if personal sympathies are great for evergreen beauties? Then it should be regarded as Juniper rust - and in the middle of this decorative "necklace" instead of Apple trees, place, say, Cherries no less beautiful in spring (subgenus Prunus subgen
Cerasus) or Sweet cherries (Prunus avium);
1.2. it is not necessary to destroy unwanted "owners" if you find a way to isolate them spatially - to move them away or to fencing them off so reliably so that the spores do not reach.
2. Eliminate wintering spores by deep digging of the land plot with the extraction and cremation of any plant debris and weeds.
3. Choose varieties that are resistant to rust (if any).
4. Sort, clean and pickle the planting material:
4.1. if it is Flax, Sunflower or Sugar Beet (Beta vulgaris subsp. vulgaris), then the necessary "toxicity" should be enough even for such a simple fungicide as 3-5% Bordeaux liquid;
4.2. for seeds (and young shoots) of Wheat, we recommend Bayleton C14H16ClN3O2, Plantwax C12H13NO4S, Polycarbacin C4H6N2S4Zn or Tilt C15H17Cl2N3O2.
5. Spray the planted Pears, gooseberries, currant bushes or Apple trees with fungicides immediately after the leaves bloom, and after 2 weeks - again. The same Bordeaux liquid will do, only with a concentration of no more than 1%. (Sometimes it is advised to carry out eradication spraying in early spring - on the still dormant buds.)
6. To further reduce the susceptibility of pets to Rust:
6.1. increase the dosage of potash and phosphate fertilizers;
6.2. limit the amount of nitrogen;
6.3. try a few foliar micronutrients.
7. If you find infected leaves and / or shoots, immediately break off, break them off and burn. And what is left to stick out of the soil, try to save it by treating it with Bordeaux liquid, colloidal sulfur S, stirred in soapy water, or dry sulfur dust.
Diseases and pests
In general, mallow is in good health and is prone to rust mainly. The disease is contagious and cannot be treated, so diseased specimens are dug up and destroyed. A little less often, the mallow is affected by powdery mildew. At the first signs of the disease, diseased parts of the plant are removed and the bush is treated with any antifungal drug, such as colloidal sulfur, Bordeaux liquid or "Trichodermin".
As for pests, mallow is susceptible to attacks by spider mites.Initially, white dots appear on the leaves, and with more severe damage, the leaves turn yellow and dry. At the first signs of an attack, the plant must be treated with soapy water, and in advanced cases, pests must be dealt with using insecticidal agents such as Fitoverm, Kinmiks and Fufanon.
Mallow is also often annoyed by slugs. With a small amount, they are harvested by hand, and with a large number, quicklime is scattered around the flowers. Setting traps gives a good result. For this, beer is poured into plates and placed under the flowers. After a day, the traps are checked and the slugs gathered in them are removed.
How to grow larch from seeds
In nature, larch reproduces with the help of flake seeds. Before sowing, the planting material, which is carried out at the end of April, must undergo cold stratification for 30-40 days.
The seeds are soaked in water for 24 hours, then mixed with a small amount of wet sand or vermiculite, placed in a bag and left in the refrigerator at a temperature of 3-5 ° C.
After the required time has elapsed, the seeds are removed from the refrigerator and sown in open ground in a mixture of peat and sand (3: 1) to a depth of about one and a half cm. Watered with a spray.
Seedlings
The soil should be moderately moist, but not wet. At the end of summer, seedlings must be thinned out. For the winter they cover with spruce branches. After 2 years, at the beginning of spring, young seedlings can be transplanted to a permanent place.
The transplant is carried out with a part of the earthen coma so as not to damage the roots. For the next 2-3 years, plants need insulation in winter.
Diseases and pests
Larch needles fall off or larch turns yellow. Various factors lead to the problem.
Spruce-larch green hermes (Adelges laricis) is an aphid that feeds on spruce and larch sap. Causes damage to needles that turn yellow and fall off prematurely. During the larval phase, the pests hibernate on the tree.
Aphid defeat
In the spring, after reaching puberty, females lay eggs, giving rise to the next generation. The larvae feed on young shoots, causing their deformation.
On the threshold of spring and summer, winged forms migrate, while the rest still feed on needles. Hermes females are noticeable as they are covered with a white matter, similar to fibrous flakes.
Signs of aphid infestation
Pests are dangerous for young and weakened trees
It is also important to avoid planting larch near natural spruce trees. To combat hibernating larvae, a preparation based on paraffin oil should be used.
Another pest is the moth (Carchophora laricella), which lays the larvae in needles. The pest causes yellowing of the needles, weakens the tree, and restricts the growth of shoots. Moles are killed with a systemic insecticide
Schütte is a group of fungal diseases. It is characterized by the appearance of yellow spots or stripes on the needles, which subsequently become reddish brown and fall off.
Fungal disease
The development of the disease is favored by high humidity, manifests itself suddenly in rainy weather. The affected shoots are removed and burned, the plant is repeatedly treated with an appropriate fungicide.
Larch also turns yellow due to a lack of moisture in the soil or a lack of sunlight.
Dwarf varieties and larch on a trunk in landscape design
Larch on a trunk is an amazingly beautiful coniferous tree, which looks most impressively as a tree in rockeries, on small lawns or flower beds with ground covers and in a variety of compositions with other representatives of conifers and shrubs.
Low specimens are planted near the entrance to the house or garden. Large tapeworms are the focal point of any landscape. In landscape design, this form is used to create oriental garden styles.
Low-growing forms will look great surrounded by heathers, dwarf pine or spruce, creeping golden junipers, ornamental-leafy shrubs. This combination maximizes the beauty of miniature varieties.
Rust: disease symptoms.
Its general sign, which is also clearly visible: on the affected organs of the "victim" pustules (tubercles-bubbles) of various sizes, shapes, colors (brown, red-brown, orange-yellow, etc.) are formed; when their shells crack, a fine (fine) powder is poured into the surrounding space. It consists of spores of the pathogen fungus and is very capable of resembling (most often) rust on Fe iron products that are operated in air with high relative humidity (that is, in the presence of oxygen gas O2 and water H2O). The pustules may be surrounded by brown spots that gradually grow and darken. When they occupy the lion's share of the leaf surface, it will dry out and fall off.
The warm and humid climate is excellent for the development of the disease. It occurs only on the aerial parts of the "favored" plant - foliage and shoots (stems, trunks, twigs). This pathogen does not feed on rot and carrion - only on the contents of living cells. Having "sucked" everything from a sick specimen, the fungus flies to another (if there is time), and the previous one will almost certainly die. The causes of death are irreversible disruption of the water balance and metabolism in general, due to which the intensity and productivity of photosynthesis are minimized.
If there is no time (the season ends), the "killer" will die along with the dead plant. This is the fate of most Rust species. There are, however, and perennial species (they "know" how to winter in the roots). Diseased plants practically cease to form growth. If agricultural crops are affected, their yield decreases sharply, the quality of the fruits obtained (berries, seeds, nuts, etc.) is lost (in particular, the baking properties of the cereal grains deteriorate).
Therefore, in all domestic and foreign lists of harmful organisms (especially dangerous, dangerous, quarantine), there are certainly such rust fungi as:
- Puccinia coronata and Puccinia coronifera f. avenae, causative agents of oat crown rust (genus Avena);
- Puccinia dispersa and Puccinia recondita f. sp. secalis, inducing brown (leaf) rust of Rye (genus Secale);
- Puccinia graminis f. sp. secalis, "responsible" for the grain (stem, line) rust of Rye;
- Puccinia graminis f. sp. tritici, "guilty" of wheat (stem, linear) rust of Wheat (genus Triticum);
- Puccinia hordei, the causative agent of Barley dwarf rust (genus Hordeum);
- Puccinia triticina and Puccinia recondita f. sp. tritici, causing brown (leaf) rust of Wheat;
- Puccinia striiformis, the causative agent of wheat yellow rust;
- Uromyces pisi and Uromyces fabae f. sp. pisi-sativi, inducing pea rust (genus Pisum);
- Uromyces sojae, a causative agent of Soybean rust;
- Uromyces striatus, which stimulates Alfalfa rust (genus Medicago); and a number of others.
Types of mallow and its features
Perhaps every gardener and vegetable grower knows what a mallow looks like. This is a fairly common annual (in rare cases - perennial) weed, including about 30 species of this family (Malva alcea, pusilla, verticillata, sylvestris and many others). Some types of weed mallow are called mallow. And the famous stock rose is cultivated in the garden for decorative purposes, for the sake of bright and fragrant flowers.
Distinctive features:
- The annual has a multi-nested ovary with ovules in each nest.
- As you can see in the photo, mallow flowers are usually brightly colored and have five back-oblong-ovate petals with a three-leafed subduction.
- The mallow has a lying ascending or straight stem, in the early phase - fluffy, hairy, can reach a length of 30-120 cm.
- The leaves of the mallow weed are five-, seven-lobed, pubescent.
The first sprouts of mallow can be seen in spring, in late April - early May. Later, the weed may sprout up in the fall.
What the mallow looks like can be clearly seen in the photo taken during the period of lush flowering (in June-August). After the flowers disappear, it forms polyspermous fruits (up to 70 thousand achenes per plant). Most often, mallow appears on humus loamy soils, the seeds sprout at temperatures above 6 degrees Celsius. The mallow weed is most widespread on the crops of sugar, table and fodder beets, as well as some grain crops. Due to the early appearance in the field, the spread of this plant leads to inhibition of the growth of the main crop.
Pests
The main enemies of mallow are aphids, spider mites and slugs.Sometimes the plant is attacked by leaf beetles and nematodes. Pests occupy the mallow plantings and suck out the plant sap. It is the presence of pests that is often the answer to the question of why the leaves of mallow turn yellow. In addition, parasites contribute to the ingress of pathogenic microorganisms on the flower, which leads to the development of diseases.
Chemicals are used to control pests, but you must first determine exactly who eats mallow. There are drugs that help to cope with only one type of insect. For example, the acaricide Nissoran is extremely effective against various types of mites, but is useless in the fight against thrips.
Attention! There are drugs that are universal insectoacaricides. These include Fitoverm, which does not have a toxic effect on plants, and Oberon, which is effective at all stages of pest development.
The size of an adult aphid is about 2.5 mm. Under favorable conditions, the insect multiplies rapidly, and by the end of the season, the entire aerial part of the mallow may be covered with aphids. Pests suck the juice from the tops of shoots, petioles, leaves. Affected leaves curl, turn yellow and fall off.
Options for getting rid of aphids:
- Chemical etching. Aktara drug has a contact-intestinal action. It is applied at the root, and the upper part of the plant is treated by spraying. Insects die in 4-6 hours.
- Treatment with soapy water. In one liter of warm water, dilute 10 g of tar soap.
- Spraying with a solution of soda and salt. For 1 liter of water, take one tablespoon of funds.
Spider mite
Putin ticks are almost ubiquitous. These tiny green and reddish insects are extremely fertile. One female lays up to 150 yellowish eggs on the underside of the leaf, and during the summer it can develop up to 10 generations. Dry air encourages the spread of mites. Damaged plants quickly lose their attractive appearance. The undersides of the leaves are covered with a thin gray web, under which pests live and reproduce.
- The use of chemicals is the most effective way. A popular remedy for controlling arachnids is Anti-mite. This acaricide with a wide spectrum of action does not lose its effectiveness at high temperatures and quickly inhibits the vital activity of pests.
- The use of folk remedies. It has been noticed that onion phytoncides are toxic to spider mites. To get rid of the tick, use a two-day infusion of onions (20 g of onion husks per 1 liter of water). Three times spraying destroys the pest.
Nematodes
There are three types of nematodes: leaf, stem and root. These small, colorless worms invade plant tissues. The shape of the damaged mallow changes, and swellings are formed in places. The tissues gradually die off. Flowers develop poorly or not at all.
Getting rid of nematodes is difficult. They use drugs such as Karbofos (contact poison) or the universal nematicide Nemagon. The thickened parts of the plants are cut and destroyed.
Slugs
Often slugs annoy the plantings of mallow. They can be collected manually or set up traps - containers with beer for bait. Attracted by the smell of the intoxicating drink, the slugs crawl into the cans. It remains to collect and destroy them in the morning.
Leaf beetles
Adult leaf beetles gnaw holes in mallow leaves, feeding on plant sap. The larvae are able to eat the entire terrestrial part of the plant. When a gardener discovers mallow leaves in holes, how to process them, the first question arises. Vinegar repels pests. Dilute 500 ml in a bucket of water and spray with the planting solution. With a large number of parasites, the drug Confidor is used.
Leaf beetle traces
