A simplified way to grow lobelia seedlings
I have been using a simplified method of growing lobelia seedlings for several years now. The traditional version (with seedling trays) has always been quite difficult for me. Often part of the seedlings died from the "black leg". It was difficult to keep track of the normal state of the soil: it either dried out or turned out to be waterlogged. I constantly had to shake off the condensate from the film (glass), protect the seedlings from sunlight, etc. I had to pay so much attention to growing lobelia seedlings that for a while I had to give up the beautiful flower.
The simplified way gets rid of all these worries. It is so simple that even an inexperienced amateur florist or a very busy person can afford to take care of lobelia seedlings. The main thing is to stock up on several transparent packing boxes (with holes on the lid and at the bottom) from red or yellow cherry tomatoes. Recently, cherry tomatoes have appeared in flat packs with a triangular lid. They don't fit. Only the simplest (with rounded corners) boxes or their analogues are needed.
I start by filling the container with loose soil mixture and moistening it on the eve of sowing. Before sowing, seeds, fine as dust, can be mixed with calcined sand so that there is no thickening
It is important to remember: lobelia seeds are germinated in the light, they are not sprinkled with soil! After that, I pour a slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate into a bottle and spray the crops once with a spray. Then I close the box with a transparent lid.
Condensation does not form under it, the drops of which kill seedlings. The vents for the cherry tomatoes allow you to grow your lobelia seedlings with a constant supply of fresh air. Watering is also very simple: the boxes need to be placed in any suitable pallet (I use foam packing "troughs") and pour water into them as needed. Through the transparent walls, you can clearly see how it penetrates into the holes at the bottom of the box and begins to rise, moistening the soil. Excess moisture must not be allowed.
Before the pick, the seedlings grow in a bright, warm place without direct sunlight. Usually, no problems with seedlings arise even if they are "forgotten" about. The lid of the package is not removed or opened all this time.
About a month after the emergence of shoots, the tops of the shoots begin to rest against the transparent cover. The seedlings are already big enough to be dived. I don't even want to remember how much time I spent before to pick up each seedling with tweezers (or toothpicks) and transfer it to a new place. Now ... a teaspoon becomes my instrument. It is very easy for her to get out small lumps of soil with a bunch of grown seedlings and place them in a new planting container. These can be individual pots or a common planting box, in which the "bundles" are planted at a distance of 3 - 5 cm from each other. Picked seedlings should be grown in a bright cool (plus 16 - 18˚C) place.
When the height of the sprouts of the lobelia seedlings is about 5 cm, I pick up the scissors and coolly cut the tops of the seedlings. This "lawn mowing" ensures the compactness and splendor of the lobelia bushes.
"Bunches" of grown seedlings (ie seedlings) are planted in a permanent place in the open field in late May - early June.It is covered with lutrasil during the spring frost.
Planting and caring for an annual plant
Lobelia stems are very thin and delicate, so great care is needed when watering. Water should not get on the shoots themselves, as they can be damaged. It is good to use a syringe or pipette for watering.
Observe these precautions for 2-3 weeks, after which the plant will get stronger and there will be no need for this.
When 2-4 leaves appear on the shoots, the seedlings must be dived. The pick is carried out in groups of 3-5 plants. In this case, you get a lush bush. After transplanting, the seedlings are watered and placed in a shady place for several days for better survival. Then they again take out to a sunny place.
When the shoots reach 4 cm, a pinching procedure is carried out. Scissors cut off the tops of all plants. This exercise strengthens the root system and helps in the formation of a beautiful and healthy shrub.
Lobelia in pots
If you don't want to mess with seedlings at all, then you can plant the plant immediately in a pots. To do this, at the beginning of April, the pots are filled with a pre-prepared substrate and sown with seeds as evenly as possible. Cover with a film or a transparent plastic bag and put in a warm and well-lit place. When the temperature outside stabilizes and is above 15 degrees, the pots are moved outside. The disadvantage of this method is late flowering. But there is also a significant plus in the form of time savings.
Caring for a plant growing in a pots is more time consuming. This is due to the small amount of soil. To reduce the negative consequences, feeding should be done. It is carried out 2-3 times per season with potassium sulfate, as well as a complex mineral fertilizer.
Lobelia in the open field
Before planting in open ground, the seedlings are hardened. To do this, for the first time, it is taken out into the street in the shade, the second time in partial shade, and only the third time can it be placed in the sun. After that, the seedlings are ready for planting. To get a continuous carpet, it is worth planting shoots at a distance of 10-15 cm. If you need to get separate bushes, then the distance between the plants should be at least 25 cm.
Lobelia should not be planted on well-fertile soils, since in this case it gains green mass and gives fewer flowers. And also do not feed it with fertilizers with nitrogen. The landing site can be chosen both in the sun and in a place where the sun is about 2 hours a day. Lobelia prefers moderate watering and loose soil.
With good care, this plant will delight with flowering from June to the very frost.
Types and varieties of miscanthus with photos and names
Giant miscanthus (Miscanthus giganteus)
This species has long been cultivated by gardeners, and experts believe that it is a complex hybrid, but no one knows how it originated. Erect shoots can reach a height of 300 centimeters. Weeping leaf plates are about 0.25 m wide. They are colored dark green, with a white stripe running along the central vein. From the escape, the leaves diverge in different directions, which outwardly is very similar to a large fountain. Flowering is observed at the end of the summer period, while light pink panicles appear, acquiring a silvery color over time. If the summer period in the region is cold, then miscanthus may not bloom at all. Often this species is planted as an accent in the background. It should be noted that at the end of the summer period, the lower leaves of it fade, in this regard, the lower part of the miscanthus will need to be masked.
Chinese Miscanthus (Miscanthus sinensis)
Under natural conditions, this species can be found in Korea, Russia, China, and also Japan. This perennial is a grass with a loose bush. He has a fairly short rhizome, and erect shoots in height can reach about 300 centimeters.Rough rough linear leaf plates are about 15 millimeters wide, with a rough rib running along the central vein. During flowering, single-flowered spikelets appear, which can reach 0.7 centimeters in length, while they are part of loose panicles. It has been cultivated since 1875. It does not differ in high frost resistance, in this regard, it simply needs a dry shelter, while by winter one should not forget to sprinkle the area with a thick layer of mulch. This type is most popular with gardeners and there are about 100 of its varieties, which differ in the shape and color of the inflorescences, as well as in the shape and size of the bush itself. These include both frost-resistant varieties and those that prefer to grow in warm climates.
Varieties:
- Blondeau. It can reach a height of 200 centimeters. It is frost-resistant enough, no shelter is required for the winter.
- Variegatus. In height, a dense bush can reach only 150 centimeters. On its leaf plates there are longitudinal stripes of white color.
- Miscanthus Zebrinus (sometimes referred to as Miscanthus Zebrina). The variegated bush on green leaf plates has yellow stripes that are located transversely.
- Ferner Austin. The bush can reach a height of 150 centimeters. On narrow green leaf plates along the central vein, there is a white stripe, which turns reddish-red in autumn. In August, the fan-shaped panicles of a deep red color with white tops bloom, over time they change their color to bronze-silver.
- Morning Light. A beautiful not very tall bush has narrow leaf plates with a white edging. Flowering is observed quite late and not annually.
- Strictus. The bush reaches a height of 2.7 meters, the width of its rich color of variegated leaf plates is about 15 mm. On the leaves, green and rich white stripes are alternately located, loose panicles consist of single-flowered pale red spikelets.
Sugar-flowered Miscanthus, or Sugar-flowered (Miscanthus sacchariflonis)
Under natural conditions, it can be found in Russia in humid areas from the south of the Primorsky Territory to the Amur Region, as well as in China, Korea and Japan. In height, a bush with bare shoots can reach 200 centimeters. The drooping linear leaf plates are painted in a pale green color, they are one and a half centimeter wide, and about 0.6 m long. Panicles reach 0.25 m in length, and they are painted in white or pink-silver color. This species belongs to the thermophilic species, therefore, its growing season begins at the end of the spring period, however, its growth is highly intensive throughout the warm season. Flowering begins in July, and such a cereal can maintain its decorative appearance until October. It is frost-resistant enough, no shelter is required for wintering, but it is better to mulch the site in case of a little snowy winter period. The most popular form is Robustus; it has a slightly larger bush than that of the main plant.
Description of the variety
The evergreen diamond shrub belongs to the pine family. Under natural conditions, this species can be found on the territory of North Korea and Asia. The main feature of the Korean fir is considered to be a short life cycle. The tree can grow in shady areas, but prefers sunny locations
When planting, it is important to protect the plants from the cold wind, so it is planted behind a fence or other artificial fence.
The Korean diamond prefers fertile, slightly acidic drained soils. The culture perfectly tolerates the influence of negative temperatures. Fir shoots are smooth, without cracks, ash-colored. The crown shape of the plant is made in the form of a flattened ball, its height rarely exceeds 50 centimeters mark. The needles are pleasant to the touch, soft.
Due to the miniature size, the seedlings of the Korean tree can be grown not only in the open field, but also in containers. The annual growth of the vegetative mass reaches 4 centimeters per year, therefore, the culture will reach the standard height only in the 10th season from the moment of planting. Thanks to these qualities, fir can be used in mixborders or for an alpine slide. It has been noticed that the development of the Korean diamond variety is negatively influenced by gassed and smoky air with a low moisture content.
Due to the miniature size, the seedlings of the Korean tree can be grown not only in the open field, but also in containers.
Appearance and habitat
Lobelia belongs to perennial herbaceous plants of the bellflower family. The motherland of the maternal varieties is South Africa.
Natural varieties grow on stony, moist soils. The bred varieties are unassuming, grow in sandy and even loamy substrate.
It is necessary to fertilize the soil in moderation, lobelia does not require enhanced fertilizing.
In modern floriculture, it is used as an annual flower. Bushes are undersized, grow up to 10 cm in height. The bush is compact, forms a spherical, densely flowering crown.
Stems are thin, fragile, branching strongly right at the base.
The leaves are small, oblong, dense, solid, dark green. The leaves are arranged alternately, very densely planted on the stem, which gives the whole bush a bright decorative effect even after flowering.
The flowers are miniature, curly, two-lipped, richly cornflower-blue, up to 2 cm in diameter. The flowers themselves are located in the axils of small foliage, placed on short pedicels.
On a note. The variety is distinguished by the duration and intensity of flowering.
Lobelia begins flowering in June and ends in late September.
Propagated most often by seeds - a long process, but fruitful, seedlings begin to actively bloom in 2 - 2.5 months.
Gardeners use this hybrid flower in group composition plantings in spacious flower beds or along lawns. Looks good on alpine slides, in composition with wild stones and large clay pots. The apartment can be planted in hanging pots, balcony boxes, flowerpots.
Planting: where and how to plant?
Russian flower growers grow lobelia in seedlings. 7-10 days before transplanting into open ground, the seedlings are hardened: thanks to this procedure, it experiences less stress and takes root better in a new place.
Seedlings should be hardened after the ambient temperature is set at 13-15 degrees Celsius:
- For the first two or three days, boxes with seedlings are taken out on a glazed balcony for several hours or kept under an open window.
- After that, hardening continues in the open air, for the first time exposing the seedlings to the shade for 30 minutes. Every day, the time spent by seedlings on the street is gradually increased and gradually taken out of the shade.
You can plant hardened seedlings in balcony boxes or open-air flower beds in mid-May.
Rules for moving into open ground
Dig up the soil in the flower bed; if necessary, a certain amount of peat, river sand and granular mineral fertilizers are introduced into it.
Landing holes are made 15-20 cm apart from each other.
The soil in the holes is moistened abundantly.
In each hole, carefully, trying not to damage the earthen lump, place a bush consisting of 6-7 seedlings. The soil around it is slightly compacted.
Important! To make a continuous dense clearing, no more than 10-15 cm is left between the bushes; if you plan to create a mixed flower arrangement, this distance is increased to 20-25 cm.
Lighting and location
Lobelia "Emperor Willy" blooms equally well both in sunny (with the maximum amount of natural light) and in semi-shady areas, protected from the penetration of cold gusty winds.
Soil requirements
- Lobelia grows well on loose, moist, breathable substrates. All these requirements are met by ready-made soil, which can be bought in a specialized store.
- If desired, the soil mixture can be made independently, taking one part of garden soil and mineral fertilizers of prolonged (long-term) action and 1.5 parts of coarse river sand.
- The easiest recipe for a lobelia potting soil mix is to mix equal amounts of regular garden soil and vermiculite. Vermiculite is capable of: preserving the looseness of the soil, protecting it from sudden temperature changes in the environment, neutralizing the high acidity of the soil and ensuring the optimal level of its moisture.
- Lobelia does not like acidic soils. The situation can be corrected by introducing dolomite flour or wood ash into the soil.
- The substrate intended for growing seedlings is disinfected by steaming it in a water bath or calcining it in an oven just before the seed sowing procedure. Freezing of the soil gives a good effect (it is enough to hold it on an unheated balcony since autumn).
Attention! In order to achieve abundant flowering of lobelia, oversaturation of the soil with organic matter (humus or manure) should be avoided, since in this case all the plant's forces will go to building up green mass. Lobelia will bush beautifully, its leaves will turn bright green, but flowering will be rather scarce.
Types and varieties of alissum
Alyssum rocky (Alyssum saxatile)
Strongly branched perennial up to 30 cm tall, growing in hemispherical bushes up to 40 cm in diameter. Its branched stems are lignified at the base. Inversely ovate or oblong, gray-gray, felt-like leaves, which remain on the bush even in winter, form dense rosettes. Small yellow flowers with notched petals are collected in dense, short brushes. Blooms in spring for about forty days, possibly re-blooming in late summer. Varieties:
- Citrinum - lemon yellow alissum of short stature;
- Compactum is a fragrant variety only 18 cm high with small flowers;
- Golden wave - yellow alyssum up to 20 cm high, blooming only at the age of two years;
- Plenum - golden alissum, terry, bush height up to 30 cm.
In the photo: Alyssum saxatile
Alyssum sea (Alyssum maritimum)
He is also lobularia sea - perennial, but only in warm climates, a plant from 8 to 40 cm high, abundantly overgrown with branches creeping on the ground, forming fluffy bushes with small, fleshy, silvery oval leaves with fine pubescence. The flowers are also medium-sized, with a honey aroma, collected in a brush. In nature, there are varieties of white or lilac shades, but many varieties have been bred in culture with pink, purple and red flowers that bloom from spring to autumn. Varieties:
- Tiny Tim is a white, dwarf alyssum, eight centimeters tall, blooming so profusely that no stems or leaves are visible. Excellent ground cover plant;
- Easter Bonnet Deep Rose - Alyssum pink of an intense shade, blooms profusely;
- Princess in Pearl - ampelous alyssum, looking great in hanging pots or flowerpots, with spreading shoots up to 35 cm long and fragrant light lilac flowers;
- Violet Konigin is a violet alissum, compact, densely branched, 10-15 cm high.
In the photo: Alyssum maritimum
Alyssum gmelinii (Alyssum gmelinii)
Or mountain alissum (alyssum montanum) - This is a frost-resistant perennial 10-20 cm high with ascending and creeping stems and leaves densely pubescent with star-shaped hairs, which makes them appear gray. Yellow flowers, collected in a cluster, bloom in April or May.
In addition to the above, there are such representatives of the Alyssum genus, such as Lena, winding, Savran, rough, cup, Pyrenean, creeping and silver.
In the photo: Mountain Alyssum (alyssum montanum)
In recent years, breeders, given the popularity of alissum, have bred wonderful varieties, among which are especially popular:
- Palette - miniature bushes no more than ten centimeters of the richest palette of colors - white, pink, red, raspberry, lilac and even brown. In specialized stores, a mixture of Alyssum Pauletta seeds of different colors is sold, they are planted so to get a motley flowerbed or lawn, covered with a multi-colored lush carpet;
- Big Jam is a large-flowered alissum, whose flowers are one and a half times larger than usual, the color range is also wide - lavender, purple, white and light lilac. The plant is up to 35 cm high, has increased resistance to drought and cold - flowering continues even at -3ºC;
- Gold placer - grows as a spherical bush, the leaves are narrow, the stems almost lie on the ground, the bright yellow flowers are collected in small dense brushes. Most of all, this variety is suitable for rocky slides and for decorating retaining walls;
- White carpet - characterized by long and abundant flowering of white inflorescences. It is used most often as a ground cover plant;
- Pink rug - densely branched bushes up to 12 cm high with small gray pubescent leaves and medium-sized fragrant flowers of pink-lilac color, collected in racemose inflorescences - most often this type is used as an ampelous plant for balconies or as a framing of flower beds and a flower bed.
Aconite, or fighter Alstroemeria: growing in the open field
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