Spots on orchid leaves
Florists often face a problem when dark spots begin to appear on orchid leaves. They can have a different color and configuration, be in the form of uneven spots, rings, rhombuses.
Sometimes spots merge with each other. By the appearance of the damage, one can understand what disease has affected the flower.
Brown
The appearance of brownish spots on orchid leaves may indicate bacterial leaf spot. The disease develops quickly and manifests itself in the following symptoms:
- the spots change color from green to yellow and then to brown:
- spots become soft;
- fluid is released from damaged areas
To stop the disease, all damaged areas of the leaves must be removed. Sprinkle the cut sites with crushed activated carbon or grease with iodine solution.
Antariosis is manifested by the appearance of brown spots with clear boundaries.
The main signs of the disease:
- spots are small, rounded;
- merge as the disease progresses;
- the leaves of the orchid turn black;
- a pink-yellow bloom stands out on blackness.
Antariosis is most often caused by errors in the course. Increased humidity in the room, improper watering, as a result of which water accumulates on the leaves and in pseudobulbs can provoke it.
In order to prevent antariosis, it is necessary to remove excess droplets on the leaves of the orchid. The disease is treated like bacterial spot.
Below is a photo in which you can see in more detail the brown spots:
White
Have white spots on orchid leaves? What is it? This problem can be caused by a fungal infection of the leaves - powdery mildew.
The disease can lead to the death of the plant.
Symptoms:
- spots appear on the leaves, similar to spilled flour;
- places in the area of \ u200b \ u200bthe spots begin to dry out.
Powdery mildew develops due to excess moisture and increased air temperature.
You can cope with powdery mildew using phytosporin treatment.
Photo of white spots on orchid leaves:
Black color
Black spots on the orchid cause sooty fungi. Sooty flexible develops on leaves already damaged by pests.
Such pests include aphids, scale insects, mealybugs. The fungus feeds on sweet sticky secretions of pests.
Externally, the damage looks like a black coating. As a result, the leaves stop functioning properly, which leads to the weakening of the orchid and death.
Treatment with Mikosan preparations helps to cope with the problem, Skor.
Photos of black spots on orchid leaves:
Yellow color
The appearance of yellow spots in orchids can be caused by:
- hypothermia of the plant;
- watering errors - too abundant or insufficient;
- lack of lighting;
- sunburn
It is especially dangerous if the flower stands in the sun and is watered abundantly. This leads to the development of the greenhouse effect, overheating of the plant and its diseases. First of all, it is necessary to eliminate the flaws in the care.
Yellowish and reddish spots may appear on rusty plants. It is a fungal disease that affects the leaves. In this case, spots appear on the underside of the leaves. Then red loose formations are formed on them - spores of fungi.
To combat rust, the first step is to remove the affected areas. In advanced cases, it is necessary to break off the whole sheet. Places of cuts are treated with activated carbon or an alcohol solution (20%) and sprayed with Mikosan, Skor.
Below are some photos of yellow leaves on orchids:
The appearance of dots
Growers may notice black or brownish spots on the leaves and flowers of orchids. Dots on flowers are harmless.
Most often they appear as a result of water droplets falling on the buds during watering or preparations.
If, after watering, the plant is in the bright sun, then after the evaporation of water droplets, a sunburn remains in their place, which looks like a dot.
White dots on the leaves of orchids have exactly the same origin.
The most common species that suffer from this are Oncidium, Odontioda Zygopetalum, Odontoglossum, Burrageara.
Black dots can be thrips - pests that inhabit the undersides of leaves. Thrips infect orchids if the rules of care are violated.
Low humidity and high air temperatures are favorable conditions for their development.
You can distinguish ordinary dots caused by sunburn from infection with thrips by the following signs:
- dots from thrips appear only on the undersides of leaves;
- thrips cause browning of leaves and their death.
Check out the interesting varieties of orchids:
- phalaenopsis;
- dwarf orchid;
- dendrobium nobile;
- dracula;
- cambria;
- cattleya;
- oncidium;
- wanda;
- miltonia;
- papiopedilum;
- ludisia;
- cymbidium.
Root diseases as a cause
Healthy roots have a dense structure, whitish-gray, with a greenish tint. Sick, rotten roots acquire a brown color and a slimy consistency. To save such an orchid, the following resuscitation actions are carried out:
- Cut off dried and rotten roots;
- Sections are treated with powdered charcoal;
-
The flower is transplanted into the prepared substrate;
- After transplantation, wrinkled leaves are rubbed every day with 0.1% succinic acid until their elasticity is restored.
After resuscitation measures, the orchid may bloom as early as next season. But in a blooming orchid, the leaves can also wither, so be careful when leaving.
Some phalaenopsis diseases can be caused by a containment breach
Inspect the plants regularly, this will help to identify pests in time and start treatment.
Improper lighting affects the development of the plant. When buying a flower, be sure to find out what type of orchid you purchased. They are shade-tolerant and light-loving. None of the phalaenopsis species tolerate the open sun and can burn the leaves.
When watering orchids, the rule applies: it is better to underfill than overflow. But be careful, because with too dry air and poor watering, the orchid may shed its leaves, or sticky drops may appear on them. High humidity will contribute to the appearance of fungal and bacterial diseases. Low or too high temperature also does not contribute to the normal development of the plant and can cause the appearance of fungal diseases. Buying orchids in the cold season may cause frostbite on the leaves.
Each plant has its own preferences. Moreover, it is so rare for our latitudes. The peculiarities of growing these flowers are due precisely to their origin from humid forest areas and the need to create an artificial, familiar microclimate for them. The main requirements for growing phalaenopsis are:
- the need for root access to the air, since in their natural habitat the roots absorb moisture from the air, and nutrients from the upper layers of the bark of the tree on which the flower lives;
- the need to provide good lighting, since the roots are actively involved in photosynthesis;
- control over the growth of aerial roots, which the flower has in addition to the usual ones - they constantly branch in search of food and can climb into nearby pots.
Don't forget about good lighting
Reasons for the appearance
There are various reasons why sticky droplets form on orchids.
- pest activity;
- improper care;
- disease.
Pest activity
Often, sticky drops can be seen on orchids due to the appearance of ticks and aphids on them. Most often, in this case, you can find on plants and small dots on the outside and back of the leaves, on the trunk, on the flower shoot (these are small insects that have got into the liquid). In this case, the largest amount of plaque appears in the leaf area.
Improper care
A sweet bloom can appear on flowers due to the use of too much fertilizer. If you adjust the feeding in a timely manner, the drops can gradually disappear on their own.
With an excessive amount of fertilizer, the flower should be transplanted immediately, regardless of whether it is blooming at the moment or not. If this is not done in a timely manner, the orchid may die.
It is especially necessary to handle fertilizers containing phosphorus, nitrogen and potassium. After all, they, together with mineral fertilizers, can significantly increase the metabolism of a plant, which will lead to the formation of a layer of mucus on it.
Over-watering orchids can also be harmful. Therefore, you need to carefully monitor the amount of water for such flowers. Sometimes sticky spots can appear due to the natural process of flower nectar formation. In this case, the liquid will not do any harm to the plants.
To determine the level of moisture in the earth, you need to inspect the soil. If it begins to clump or lose its aeration properties, then the plant must be transplanted immediately. The same is done if white mold forms or if there is an unpleasant odor.
Diseases
Orchids can often get sick with powdery mildew, which is a common fungal disease. It occurs due to small spores that are easily transported through the air.
With such a disease, in addition to the abundant sticky liquid, large white dots can also form. Together with them, a gray bloom may appear on the leaf blades.
What else can you face and how to solve the problem?
Anthracnose
This disease is characterized by the appearance of brown patches on the plant, which soon turn black.
Sometimes a pink or yellow coating appears. The affected parts of the orchid are removed.
Powdery mildew
She gives herself away with a white coating. The plant dries up and may die.
To save the orchid, it is treated with a solution of colloidal sulfur or Topsin-M and Skor.
Rust
This disease is rare. Rust is a fungus. It infects leaves, usually initially weak individuals. Rust can be found on the inside of the leaf; these are fungal spores. The affected areas should be removed, the sections should be treated with a 25% alcohol solution. The orchid must be sprayed with Mikasan, Skor and Ritomil.
Black mushrooms
Pests are manifested by black fungi - scale insects, worms and aphids. For prophylaxis, a remedy with Neem tree oil is used. They are not given treatment. You can spray your orchid with warm water. Insects die at temperatures above forty degrees. If black mushrooms are rot, then the orchid needs to be treated by treating the roots and soil with 0.3% foundationol or 0.2% benlate mixture. Carry out the procedure no more than once every two weeks.
Spotting
With bacterial spotting, the painful areas are cut off and treated with fungicides, the cut sites are treated with an antibiotic (charcoal powder or an alcohol solution of iodine). If the spots are already on the entire surface of the leaf or the damage has already affected the central vein, undiluted Fitolavin is used for treatment. If no additional signs of the disease have arisen within 2 weeks after treatment, then the orchid is considered healthy.
What is the cause of the yellowing of the stem?
The reasons for this phenomenon can be of a different nature, among them:
- Natural aging of the plant;
- Violation of the rules for care and growing conditions;
- A sharp change in the microclimate after buying an orchid;
-
Damage by pests or phytopathogenic microorganisms.
Providing the flower with proper care, it will recover over time and the stem will take on a healthy appearance. So why did the orchid stem turn yellow and what are the main reasons?
Malaise or physiological process?
If the leaves and stem have turned yellow in a young orchid, then the cause of aging disappears by itself. Further actions should be aimed at establishing the cause of the disease.
Aging of a flower is related to its life cycle. Life expectancy is determined by the type of orchid and can range from 4 to 17 years.
Eliminating aging as the cause of the yellowing of the stem and leaves, the source of the threat must be sought in the mistakes made when caring for the orchid.
Mechanical damage
Yellowing can be caused by a fall or damage to a part of the plant.
If the wound is not disinfected in time, then it can become an entrance gate for various infections and cause rotting of the stem. With proper care, the injured area will heal and the stem of the orchid will regain its natural color.
Lack or excess of moisture
Insufficient watering of an orchid is noted much less often than an excess of moisture. Its symptoms are:
- The stem turns yellow from top to bottom and at the base;
- Yellowing of the tips of the leaves;
- Light roots;
-
Lethargy and wrinkling of the leaves.
When these signs appear, it is worth assessing the moisture content of the substrate:
- Lift pieces of bark from the upper layer of soil;
- Stick a wooden stick into the soil along the side of the pot and check after a couple of minutes. If it becomes wet, then the substrate is probably waterlogged;
- Weigh an orchid with a pot in hand, if it is light, then the soil is dry.
A typical mistake of novice growers is waterlogging of the soil, which is the most common cause of yellowness of the stem and leaves. You can notice it by a number of signs:
- Yellowing covers both the lower and upper leaves, as well as the stem;
- Black spots often appear on the surface of a yellowed leaf blade;
- The roots take on a dark color.
Important! A humid environment promotes the appearance of microbial infections that cause root rot.
Waterlogging of the soil often occurs when the orchid is in the resting phase. During this period, it does not need to be fed and often watered, excess moisture accumulates in the soil, which causes:
- Yellowing of the stem and leaves;
- Rotting roots;
- Withering of the plant.
When signs of waterlogging of the soil appear, it is necessary to assess the condition of the root system and, if necessary, transplant a flower.
Sunburn and overheating
Orchid trunk yellowing is often caused by excessive lighting or overheating:
- When the flower is in direct sunlight for an extended period;
- Has been exposed to hot air from an air conditioner;
- A too hot heating battery is located near the location of the orchid, while the humidity in the apartment is below 50%.
The situation will be corrected by moving the flower to a suitable place, after which the plant will quickly restore its appearance.
Lack of lighting
Orchids grow and bloom well on northern windowsills, but in conditions of short daylight hours, they need backlighting. Lack of lighting causes yellowing of leaves, stems, slows down the process of photosynthesis.
In case of insufficient light for orchids, additional lighting is provided.
For additional illumination in autumn and winter, a special phytolamp is used, which does not harm the plant and does not dry the air. The lamp should be at a distance of at least 20 cm from the orchid, the daylight hours are extended to 12 hours.
Lack of light is the main factor behind the lack of orchid flowering in winter and a decrease in immunity.
Fungal or bacterial infections
If, despite efforts, it is not possible to restore the color of the stem, it is possible that the root system is affected by fungi.
As soon as a disease is detected, the plant is urgently isolated from other flowers to prevent the spread of infections. After that, a number of recreational activities are carried out:
- The flower is taken out of the soil, the roots are washed with warm water;
- All unhealthy roots are removed with a disinfected instrument;
- The cuts are rubbed with crushed charcoal;
- In case of fungal infection, the roots are soaked for 15 minutes in a 0.2% Fundazole solution;
- If damaged by bacterial rot, spray with Bordeaux liquid.
Root treatment can be carried out by immersing the pot in water with the dissolved preparation.
Features of the disease
The fungus lives in almost all pots with indoor plants, but its pathogenic activity is far from always manifested. If a green pet is kept in comfortable conditions, provided with all the necessary micro and macro elements, then he is not afraid of diseases. But there are situations when the fungus begins to multiply actively:
- if the room keeps a low temperature at the level of 10-15 degrees;
- with excessive air humidity, excessive watering and stagnation of water in the container;
- when the substrate is oversaturated with nitrogen-containing fertilizers;
- when the plant is too cramped in the pot;
- if the flower is rarely watered, the earthen coma is brought to dryness, and then abundantly watered;
- any fungal infections spread very quickly and can infect other plants located nearby:
- when you touched a diseased bush, and then touched a healthy one;
- if powdery fungal microorganisms have got into the water intended for irrigation;
- with the movement of air masses - the fungus is able to move even through the air.
Often, plants at home encounter insect pests - their pathogenic activity also often leads to the appearance of spots and plaque on plants.
Treatment methods
Nowadays, there are many ways to cure orchids and get rid of their sticky plaque secretions.
It is recommended to pay attention to watering first. In the winter season, it should be significantly reduced.
Indeed, due to the increased level of humidity, the infection will only develop.
If the plants are covered with small insects, they must be removed. This can be done manually, after which it is recommended to water the flowers with warm water. If an orchid is damaged by a worm, it is also necessary to treat it with a solution of a special preparation containing oil.
The sweet nectar that appears on the leaves and on the trunk is a waste product of the mealybug. At the same time, on the plates it will be possible to see the harmful insects themselves that have got into the liquid.
Plants are often affected by the scabbard. This insect can be easily identified by its almost transparent semicircular shell. These parasites secrete a waxy substance that accumulates around them and forms a protective film over time.
If the flowers are affected by a tick, then you should first remove all damaged parts of the infected plant. After that, it must be transplanted, and the pot in which it was located must be thoroughly rinsed with clean water.
In addition, today there are a huge number of different drugs that will help fight sticky spots.
- Alirin-B. Often, instead of watering, damaged orchids are soaked in a container with water and dissolved tablets of this drug (2 pieces).
- Phosphamide. This drug is diluted in water and sprayed with it on orchids only if there are few parasites on the plants.
- Mospilan. This agent is an insecticide. It should be applied several times at intervals of ten days for the best effect.
- Fitosporin. This drug is a universal remedy for the treatment of fungal infections in plants.
- "Pure color". This product is intended exclusively for indoor plants. Often it is used not only for the treatment of sticky plaque, but also for prevention.
- Bordeaux mixture. It is a substance consisting of copper sulphate and lime, which copes well with bacteria on flowers.
- "Quadris". This drug is based on the substance azoxystrobin, which has a strong healing effect. It can also be used for plant prophylaxis.
- Fundazol. It is a fungicide (a substance that inhibits the development of fungal infections). Most often it is used against powdery mildew. Affected orchids should be treated several times at intervals of 3-5 days.
- "Zircon". This drug is able to significantly increase the stress resistance of orchids. After its application, plants become less susceptible to the formation of rot, the appearance of powdery mildew and bacteriosis.
- Trichodermin. It is a biofungicide. It should be used as a prophylaxis or in case of damage to the root system and soil treatment.
- "Topaz". Such a remedy is used precisely for fungal diseases. It is sold in small sachets in the form of an emulsion. For the best effect "Topaz" should be used together with contact fungicides.
In addition, today there are a considerable number of folk methods to combat sticky plaque on orchids. So, you can treat flowers with ammonia, hydrogen peroxide. These substances with the help of cotton wool wipe the affected areas of plants. If the flowers are severely damaged, it is best to immediately use special chemicals. At the initial stages of infection, damaged parts can be treated with laundry soap, but after that it is imperative to use a chemical agent to completely eliminate the infection.
Sometimes cinnamon is used to treat these flowers. It is sprinkled with pre-treated infected areas of plants. If mold has formed in the pot, then you need to pour cinnamon all over the substrate. Moreover, this procedure must be repeated several times with an interval of several days.
We must not forget that in some cases the plaque formed may be harmless. After all, it can act as a protection against harmful insects, since such a sticky substance is a "trap" for them. Once in the liquid, insects will not be able to get out of it.
If over time, instead of small drops, whole sticky areas appear, then this means that the pathological process of the disease has begun. In this case, rusty, black or yellow spots may later appear on the leaves and stems. Also, over time, leaf plates can completely change their natural color. They turn red or yellow in color, and are completely covered with bloom and liquid.
Orchid pests
Due to harmful insects, not only spots appear on the orchid, but also a sticky coating on the leaves. Insects often spread infectious diseases. Flower pests include: scale insects, mealy and root bugs, aphids, whiteflies and mushroom mosquitoes.
Shield
The insect settles on the trunk of the flower or under the leaves, which is why bumps form on them. So the pest protects its eggs, from which new individuals appear and spread throughout the plant. The parasites suck out the juice, covering the leaf with a sticky bloom. It is an excellent medium for the emergence of a sooty fungus that clogs the pores in the tissues of the flower. As a result, the plant is acutely aware of the lack of oxygen.
You can save the orchid if you clean off all the bumps and treat it with an insecticidal agent that has a gastrointestinal effect. When used, the plant absorbs poison and becomes poisonous itself. The scabbard that sucks out the juice is poisoned and dies. Dried "plaques" are removed with a toothbrush and then re-treated.
Scabbard on the orchid
Scorms
If small mealybugs have settled on an orchid, it is very difficult to remove them. Microscopically, parasites hide in buds and reproduce by larvae.The worm entangles the larva with threads, attaching it to the plant so that the hatched individuals can feed. Adult parasites and larvae suck out the sap of the flower. Small specks remain on the leaves. A weakened plant loses its ability to resist disease. You can destroy the pest with an insecticidal agent that penetrates the gastrointestinal tract of parasites.
It is more difficult to heal the plant if the worm has settled on the roots. The rootbug is similar to the mealybug, but smaller in size. It is impossible to see the pest under the soil layer, but its presence can be judged by the leaves falling down, yellow spots on them and the gradual wrinkling of the plates due to lack of nutrition.
Important! For prophylaxis, dry insecticide can be poured into the flowerpot. During watering, it will dissolve and, along with water, will get to the roots
Aphid
If sticky spots appear on the flowers on orchids, this is a sign of aphid damage. The insect reproduces very quickly, feeds on cell sap, so the damaged leaves are sticky. Subsequently, a fungus develops on them. Light green pests merge with the leaves, so you may not notice them at first. When the leaves begin to curl on the plant, you need to sound the alarm. They fight the pest with the help of chemical insecticides, biological products or folk remedies.
New pest - aphids
Whitefly
The appearance of white streaks on the leaves and stems indicates the appearance of the whitefly, a moth-like insect. The pest is very dangerous, as it sucks the juice from the tissues of the orchid. If a butterfly flies near a flower, you need to transfer it to a cool place, spray it with poison and wrap it in a bag to create a greenhouse effect.
Mushroom gnats
In early spring, mushroom mosquitoes (sciarids) may appear in flowerpots. This is due to the fact that in spring, when there is not enough solar heat, the soil dries out poorly, and it becomes cool in the room. To destroy mosquitoes, it is necessary to dry the soil or replace it with fresh one and cover it with sand. Additionally, you need to treat the soil with an insecticide.
