Caring for lilies after flowering - pruning and caring for the plant

When the lily fades

After a bright period of flowering, a period of wilting begins. Lily belongs to the class of perennial plants. Therefore, when decorating your flower garden, you should take this into account, and plant annual flowers and herbs with large foliage near it, which will close the withering flower.

Despite the fact that the inflorescences of the plant have become sluggish, watering and feeding with potassium-phosphorus preparations is strongly recommended to continue in full. During this period, the soil must be moistened with plenty of water with the addition of special fertilizers for lilies. Such feeding promotes the ripening of the bulb and the laying of flower buds.

Step 5 - store future flowers correctly

During the winter, the main task of caring for the bulbs is to protect them from infection and dehydration. To protect the planting material from rotting and mold, it is thoroughly rolled in ash before storing it. Then it is loosely placed in a cardboard or wooden box. Air spaces between individual bulbs are required for ventilation.

To prevent water evaporation, the top layer of the planting material is covered with moss. The box is placed in a dry, cool room with an even temperature. During the winter, the moss is slightly moistened with a spray bottle, ventilated. It is useful to check the condition of the bulbs once a month and, if necessary, remove the decayed ones.

Luxurious July lilies give the flower garden a truly royal bliss. But so that the garden does not disappoint next year, do not leave flowers without leaving in the fall. Once the lilies have bloomed, there are only a few necessary steps to be taken to bloom successfully in the coming season.

How do you care for lilies in the garden?

Reproduction of lilies.

Lily - methods of reproduction

Breeding lilies is not very difficult.

This can be done in several ways - with air or basal bulbs, as well as with onion scales.

Lily propagation by bulbs

Some types of lilies form air bulbs in the leaf axils at the base of the stem.

So, for example, you can propagate the tiger lily, bulbous, sulfur-colored, Sargent.

In the period from late August to early October, the bulbs are harvested from the lily stem and planted in boxes with sand or sandy soil.

For the winter, the box must be placed in the basement or in the attic - a cool, dark place in which there are no subzero temperatures.

In the spring, the bulbs are planted in the soil.

After 1-2 years, full-fledged bulbs will form from them, which can be transplanted to a permanent place.

It is also possible in areas with a mild climate to plant the bulbs directly into the ground to a depth of 5-6 cm. If there are subzero temperatures in winter, then it is imperative to cover the plantings.

In the same way, you can propagate the lily and basal bulbs, collecting them during the next plant transplant.

In good conditions, lilies reproduce themselves with the help of bulbs.

Moreover, this applies to reproduction both by underground bulbs and by air ones - the latter fall from the stem in the fall and subsequently can very thicken the plantings.

Consider this fact when caring for your lilies.

Reproduction of lilies by scales

Most types of lilies can be propagated by bulbous scales.

To do this, the scales are separated from the mother bulb - no more than 1/3 of all the scales can be separated without harm to the plant, it is better to break out the scales that are closer to the bottom.

In doing so, you can either dig out the bulb if you plan to replant the lily, or simply without removing it from the soil, expose the barrel of the bulb and remove a few scales.

The scales are planted in a substrate made up of a mixture of fertile soil for seedlings and sand (in a 3: 1 ratio).

As a container, you can use a bowl and a transparent lid (film) or plant the scales in a bag, which is then tightly tied.

The container with lily scales is placed in a warm place, keeping the humidity in the micro-greenhouse.

After 1-3 months, roots and small baby bulbs will appear on the scales.

After that, each flake with daughter bulbs is planted in a separate pot in sandy soil and kept in a cool place until spring (+ 5-10 ° C).

In the spring, the children are separated and planted in the ground for growing, and 1-2 years after the formation of adult bulbs, they are moved to a permanent place.

Perennials for lazy irises.

Planting and transplanting peonies.

Peonies, the subtleties of care and why they do not bloom.

for you Galimax

from here

A series of messages "Reproduction":

• Lily propagation by bulbs
• Propagation of lilies by bulbs
• Propagate a lily
• Lilies planting and care in the open field
• Lilies preparation for planting
• Growing lilies in the garden
• Lily care fertilizers
• Lily in the garden
• White lilies
• How to plant lilies in the garden
• When to plant lilies
• How to grow lilies in the garden
• Lily and care
• Lilies and daylilies photos
• Lilies breeding planting
• Lilies care after flowering

Lily care

After the sprouts appear, you need to water them moderately, about 2 times a week, and apply the first top dressing of organic fertilizers. After a week, phosphorus - potassium is added. Sprouts are sprayed with growth stimulants 2 times a week. This is necessary for flower buds to form. After the lily grows to a height of 10 cm, you need to fill up the soil almost to the edges and loosen it after each watering, to a depth of about 5 cm.

Do not forget to fertilize with fertilizers once a week. When the lily is 1 month old, it must be taken out into the open air. But you need to teach it gradually, all the time increasing the stay of plants on the street, bring it up to 10 hours. Until the buds appear, it is advisable to spray the leaves, but to avoid burns, hide the plant from the sun.

When to plant lilies

Lily can grow in a pot for 3 years without transplanting. Much depends on what conditions are created for wintering. The pot cannot be taken out to the balcony, in the cold, the bulbs will not have time to prepare and will freeze.

Lily bulbs can be planted at any time. Its flowering depends on this. If in mid-March, then flowers will appear in May. For later flowering, can be planted later.

And if it is necessary for the lily to bloom in December, the bulb is planted in September, but as soon as sprouts appear, it is necessary to increase the length of the day, due to additional lighting.

Lilies have faded, what care

As the lily fades, its buds will fall off, you will need to wait for the leaves and stems to turn yellow. You cannot cut them off. You need to water only once a week, not with ordinary water, but with top dressing. This is necessary so that all the nutrients from the stems go into the bulbs, for the next year to lay flower buds.

Once the stems and leaves are dry, the bulb can be dug up. Dip in a weak solution of potassium permanganate, dry and put in a plastic bag with sawdust, and then in a refrigerator or basement for storage until next year, children can be planted in the ground.

The conclusion suggests itself that growing lilies at home is not difficult, and it is also an interesting and exciting activity.

.

How to store planting material in winter?

For storage, you need a cool place with a temperature in the range of 0 ... + 5 ° С. For this, the lower shelf of the refrigerator, cellar, basement, garage, insulated veranda, and other places are suitable.

For keeping in the refrigerator, the bulbs are placed in plastic bags, sprinkled with wet sawdust or peat.The containers are closed, making several holes in them for air circulation. This is the best place to store, as the temperature on the bottom shelf is at the right level all the time, which creates conditions for the plant to sleep for a long time.

Storage in places that are not heated can kill the bulbs in severe frosts. Early germination may begin, which will require urgent transplantation into the ground.

In winter, lilies can be stored on the balcony or outdoors in specially made containers with good thermal insulation. This is a good storage place if arranged correctly.

On the balcony, the thickness of the thermal insulation of the tanks must withstand frosts of about -30 ° C. Outdoor storage will ensure the integrity of the lilies in the event that the selected location is covered with a thick layer of snow and is located on a hill on the north side of the house. In this area, the snow does not melt for a long time, and in the spring the water from the hill will flow down and the bulbs will be preserved.

To leave the plants to winter in the ground, in mid-October, on the days when winter garlic is planted, a trench is dug at the chosen place with a depth of at least 25 cm. Its walls are strengthened with boards and a cover is made, the bottom is left earthen. A corrugated cardboard box is placed in the trench. Dry peat is poured into it on ⅓ of dry peat, the bulbs are placed and covered to the very top with the same material. The peat is compacted, protected from above with oilcloth or polyethylene and a lid. The entire structure is covered with earth with a mound, trampling it down well. In such a shelter, lilies winter well.

The bulbs can be planted in a pot with drainage and a potting mix of peat, sand and humus. The container is stored in the cellar. It is taken out half a month before planting in the soil, watered, and fertilized with any fertilizer for flowers. The bulb wakes up and starts growing. It can be transplanted into the ground at any time, where it will develop further. Such flowers release buds a little earlier than their due date.

If the lily is left in a pot by the window, it will flower, but it will not have enough nutrients to form a new strong root tuber, and in the second year it will not bloom. Planting in the ground is a prerequisite for obtaining buds.

What to do during and after flowering lilies

Lilies planted in the shade will need to be tied to pegs stuck in the ground before flowering (just do not damage the pegs with the pegs), otherwise, under the weight of the flowers, the lilies may fall to the ground. Those plants that grew in the sun turn out to be quite powerful and do not need a garter.

If you provide your plants with proper cultivation and care, the lilies will bloom for a long time: first, the flowers of Asiatic lilies and LA hybrids will bloom, followed by OT hybrids, oriental and tubular lilies. You just have to admire the magnificent flowers and inhale their fragrance.

Video about caring for lilies in the garden

Cutting lily flowers correctly:

• the most suitable time for cutting flowers is early morning or late evening, in cloudy weather the time does not matter;
• it is safer to break off the peduncles, since through a knife you can easily infect the lily with viral diseases, or disinfect the knife before cutting;
• the longer the stem remains after cutting the peduncle (at least a third of the stem with leaves should remain), the more complete the nutrition of the bulb will be, and the better it will ripen;
• it is recommended to cut obliquely, then water after rain will not accumulate on the stem, causing rotting.

Periodically remove emerging weeds and loosen when cracks and crusts form on the soil surface.

When the lilies have faded, post-flowering is minimized. Dried flowers are removed from the stems so that the plants do not waste energy in ripening the seeds.The last fertilization of the season with phosphorus and potash fertilizers is carried out, it begins. Now you need to increase watering again - this will allow the bulbs to accumulate nutrient reserves for the long winter and finally get stronger. Periodically remove emerging weeds and, if cracks and crusts form on the soil surface, loosen. Two weeks after all the lilies have faded, you can start replanting them or cover them for the winter.

When to cut lilies after flowering, so that the underground part can overwinter in the open field and retain the ability to bloom, it is important to know for novice growers. Proper care of the plant makes it possible to admire the beautiful flowers on the site near the house

In a lily, all parts of the plant are harmoniously interconnected. When the plant grows, the underground part gives all its strength to the stem and leaves. After flowering ends, the leaves that have gained strength begin to form the lower part, accumulating in it the nutrients obtained in the process of photosynthesis.

Incorrectly executed peduncle pruning often leads to the death of the bulb due to lack of nutrients, even in those varieties that are winter-hardy plants. Violation of the rules for cutting in thermophilic hybrids leads to damage to the planting material in flowers during winter storage in artificially created conditions.

Whether it is necessary to dig up lilies for the winter and whether it is necessary to do this, must be decided based on the varieties planted in the ground. But pruning of lilies is never recommended. Professionals recommend planting those types of lilies on the plots that, with proper care, do not require an annual transplant. Plants removed from the soil are difficult to keep at home during the winter.

Novice growers are interested in whether they dig up lilies for the winter. Bulbs overwintering in mid-latitudes in the open field are not dug up every year if they are comfortable overwintering. These varieties have to be removed from the flower bed only when it is necessary to plant bulbs that grow closely together.

Lilies overwintering in the ground, planted on a hill, in ventilated sunny places, on good nutritious soil, form a large colony in 4 years and require transplantation. The largest bulbs in such families have 5 or more buds. Such flower-bearing stems can be partially cut at a height of at least 20 cm so that nutrients can return to the bulb that needs them. In the soil of central Russia, species such as:

• Martagon;
• Hanson;
• Royal;
• Tiger;
• Daurskaya.

The rest of the species can freeze out, disappear due to insufficient daylight hours, being struck by diseases.

When a grower needs to breed a variety, he needs to get the bulbs to actively divide. Seed work begins in the fall, when to dig lilies the time will come. Having removed the bulb of the desired variety from the soil at this time, the novice florist gets a large specimen of good quality, from which several new lilies can be obtained.

Wintering and storage of lilies

Winter-hardy varieties of lilies survive the cold outdoors very well. For better safety, plantings are mulched with humus, straw, peat or other plant residues and covered with agromaterial.

Lilies are covered with a layer of dry leaves and covered with agrofibre

But some capricious hybrids require annual digging and storage in a relatively warm place with an air temperature of about + 2 ... + 3 ° С.

You can store lilies:

• in a cellar or basement;
• in the refrigerator (on the bottom shelf or in the vegetable compartment).

Well-dried bulbs are placed in shallow wooden or plastic boxes, then sprinkled with a mixture of coarse sand, sawdust and peat. It is allowed to store lilies in boxes, shifting them with layers of sphagnum moss or burlap.

To store lilies in the cellar, the bulbs are laid out in shallow boxes or boxes.

To be kept in the refrigerator, the onions are placed in polyethylene bags with moistened peat or wrapped in a damp natural cloth.

Lilies can be stored in the refrigerator by wrapping them in a damp linen cloth

Even frost-resistant lilies do not always survive the winter safely, sometimes they still freeze out. In order to guarantee not to lose the plants, I usually leave half of the bulbs to winter in the ground, and store the rest in boxes with wet sand in the cellar.

Beginner mistakes

Gardeners who first carry out the reproduction and transplant procedure can make mistakes. For example, due to the desire to preserve the decorativeness of the site and its beauty, the shoots of fading crops are immediately cut off.

This can be done with other plants, but the lilies should not be touched for a month and a half after the cessation of flowering, so that they overwinter well. This rule applies if no transplant is planned.

Digging up the bulbous part is carried out when the aerial shoot is completely dry. This means that the plant has gained strength and is ready for wintering. Lily transplants can be done safely.

Trying to save more planting material, gardeners leave rotted specimens for reproduction. The consequence of this will be the contamination of the soil with a fungus, and the plants will die even at the embryonic stage.

Get rid of weeds in your summer cottage forever! Advanced development of Russian agronomists. All information is here

You will also be interested to read:

How to grow a lemon from a seed at home, will it bear fruit, how long will the process take. Tree care

How pineapple grows in nature, growing fruit at home. Planting methods, parameters for flowering and fruiting

Maiden grapes - features of cultivation. Reproduction methods, watering, feeding. Varieties for the middle lane

Cyclamen - home care. Varieties for cultivation in the apartment. Requirements for watering, lighting, feeding, temperature

When to transplant daffodils

The following are the various periods considered to be the most favorable for transplanting daffodils:

1. The summer period is a good option for this procedure, but it can only be implemented during August. This is due to the fact that at this time the laying of roots is taking place, while it is not even necessary to wait for the completion of flowering, since the plant is unpretentious to the conditions and does not require complex care. This is the main difference and the main advantage over the main competitor of daffodils in terms of popularity - tulips.
2. Sometimes, for some reason, you may not have time to carry out a transplant in the summer, then you can implement this process in the fall, but you will need to have time to do it in the first half of September. It is necessary to wait until the sheets turn yellow, after which do not delay the process, since transferring to a later period in the current season will be unacceptable. In case of urgent need, you can save the dug out bulbs and wait for the most favorable time to plant them in a new place, but it should be borne in mind that their storage is not always easy. This is due to the tendency of tubers to dry out, which leads to the death of the planting material. Rooting usually occurs when the ground warms up to at least + 5-7 ° C; as an additional measure, it is recommended to move the planting material to the refrigerator for several weeks, and then plant it in a new place. This will harden the bulbs, speeding up their adaptation in the open field, and have a positive effect on survival. However, they are not allowed to be kept in a freezer, since such a low temperature regime can lead to the death of the planting material.
3. Spring transplanting is usually an exceptional measure if this procedure has not been implemented even before winter. The most important feature and difficulty lies in making the right choice of a specific period: the bulbs must be transplanted immediately after the snow melts and not delayed with this process, since the formation and development of the root system usually takes about a month. Also, transplanting in the spring requires additional application of fertilizers and fertilizing mixtures to the soil in a new place, it is recommended to start this preparation process in the fall. At the same time, there is a high probability that daffodils will not have a flowering period in the current and next seasons.

Reproduction of lilies by division and children

Lilies can be propagated in several ways. The simplest and most popular is the division of bulb nests. This method is based on the natural development of lilies, in which the adult "mother" bulb annually forms daughter bulbs with new roots and stems. It is they who are used to grow new plants.

The bulbous nest begins to be divided 3-4 years after planting the plant, when at least 4-6 bulbs have formed on it. The optimal time for work comes one month after flowering. If you start dividing earlier, when the bulbs are weakened, lost weight and wilted, the plants may not take root.

How to properly propagate bulbs by dividing:

carefully dig up a mature shrub without damaging the bulbs and perennial roots. If you seriously damage the root system, the transplanted lilies may not bloom next year;

lay the bulb nest on the ground and separate the daughter bulbs and small children. You should have 2-3 grown together large bulbs in your hands, from which the stems stretch upward. There should be as many bulbs as there are stems;

cut the stems of the lilies, leaving small stumps

Remove the soil from the roots and carefully divide the nest into individual bulbs. This can be done by hand, without special tools;

inspect each lily for signs of damage, rot, disease, and dark spots. Healthy bulbs have white scales with a pinkish tinge, without any spots;

This is how damaged lily bulbs look like

using a pruner, remove dead and rotten roots, and cut healthy ones to 15-20 cm;

• sort the planting stock and select bulbs of approximately the same size. Place the bulbs intended for planting in a dark place and cover with a damp cloth, which should be regularly moistened with water;
• do not rush to throw away bulbs rejected for "clean" planting. Try etching them in a 0.2-0.4% solution of Maxim for several hours, then dry them and plant them separately from the rest;

plant bulbs on an auspicious day, focusing on the lunar calendar.

Reproduction of lilies by children

When digging up lilies, you may find small 1 cm in diameter bulbs that form at the base of the stems. During the season, up to 10 such children are formed in the underground part. Over time, if not removed, they grow and form a bulbous nest with a "mother" bulb.

There are two ways to separate babies from the mother's bulb:

• when digging and dividing nests in September;
• raking the soil from the base of the roots and sifting it.

Children are planted in schools - pre-prepared beds with fertile soil, protected from wind, rain and snow. They are planted at a depth of 4-5 cm, at a distance of 10-12 cm from each other and 17-20 cm in the aisles. The soil in the garden bed with children should always be moderately moist, periodically planting needs to be fed and loosened in the aisles. For the winter, the garden bed must be insulated with a layer of mulch.

The children planted in September will give stems up to 25 cm high by the next season, but they will not be able to bloom. After the second wintering, 1-2 buds may appear on the plant, they should be removed so that the plant grows stronger.The lily blooms in full force only in the third year.

Reproduction by children can be carried out in April-May. They should be stored in a cellar or refrigerator until spring.

If you are interested in this method of reproduction of lilies, then know that the formation of children can be stimulated. To do this, separate the flowering stems and bury them in sand or light soil, leaving only the top on the surface. Remove the leaves and buds. By autumn, baby bulbs will appear in the axils of the leaves of the buried stem.

When to prune lilies after flowering?

Pruning a faded lily is necessary. But this important event should not be rushed. As you know, after flowering, the breeding stage begins. This process in lilies occurs in a vegetative way: new rudiments are formed from part of the parent bulb. They are gradually gaining strength. Moreover, young bulbs receive nutrients not only from the ground, from the roots.

The fact is that in the process of photosynthesis, a plant is able to obtain the organic substances it needs from carbon dioxide. The stem and leaves of a lily, after flowering, continue to remain green for a long time. This means that the flower continues to work on absorbing the sun's energy, transforming it and using it for its own purposes. Therefore, it is completely wrong to cut the lily immediately after flowering, to deprive it of such nutrition. But you should not hesitate with the removal of wilted flowers. Boxes with seeds begin to form in them, on the development of which the plant spends a lot of its energy. Having freed him from an extra burden, the flower is left alone until autumn.

Watch a video on what to do with lilies after they have faded.

You need to trim the lilies after flowering when the stem is completely wither and dry. And before that, you can help the lily to gain strength after a violent flowering by feeding with phosphorus-potassium or organic fertilizers

Only organic should be used with extreme caution. Since lily bulbs lack a protective shell, an overdose of it threatens them with burns.

Therefore, for the nutrient solution, it is recommended to use no more than 300 - 500 ml of semi-liquid manure per 10 liters of water.

How to properly prune a lily after flowering?

In autumn, completely withered leaves and a dry lily stem signal that the bulb has stocked up on essential nutrients and is ready to overwinter. This means it’s time to give her some attention again.

To properly cut the lily after flowering, it is necessary to remove part of the dry stem with sharp scissors, leaving a stump 10-15 cm high.

In late autumn, just before the very frosts, it can be carefully removed so that it does not become a conductor of cold to the bulbs. In addition, mulching helps the plant to survive the winter safely.

A moderate layer (8 - 10 cm) of leafy humus, needles or sawdust is very useful for a lily. But there is one caveat. This warm place can be a very suitable house for arranging a field mouse nest. And these rodents easily damage lily bulbs. Therefore, poisonous "surprises" are added to the mulch for them.

How to transplant a lily after flowering?

The preservation of the flower for many years is facilitated by its periodic transplant. For different types of lilies, there are their optimal periods of time through which they need this event. So, Curly lilies and American lilies can grow without replanting and damage to the intensity of flowering for ten years. A Tubular or Asiatic lily must be replanted annually. In extreme cases - in a year, as they grow very quickly. A lot of small bulbs require a lot of nutrition. And since it comes, including from the stem, this contributes to the grinding of flowers.

Transplantation of early varieties of lilies is carried out, approximately, in July, and late varieties - in September. In any case, at least a month should elapse from the time of the wilting of the flowers.Premature transplanting can adversely affect plant adaptation. But it should not be too delayed with late varieties. If the cold prevents the bulbs from taking root, the plants are likely to die.

So, her preparation for transplantation is carried out as follows:

• the stems and foliage of the plant are cut;
• carefully, so as not to damage the lily children, the soil with the bulbs is taken out with a pitchfork or a shovel;
• the bulbs are separated, freed from clods of earth and dead fragments;
• too long roots are shortened;
• for two or three days, the bulbs are air-dried in the shade;
• immediately before planting, the material must be disinfected in a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

Further, holes are prepared in the dug up bed. Their depth can vary from 10 to 20 cm and depends on the size of the bulbs. Surface deepening of the planting material is fraught with its death from frost. And excessively deep immersion can delay the appearance of the peduncle too much.

Watch the video on how to properly trim lilies after flowering. And also share your secrets of caring for this flower.

3 Storage of bulbs

There are several ways to store lily bulbs in winter:

• Each onion is individually wrapped in newspaper and placed in a box with holes made for ventilation. Place moss or any other similar material between the bulbs.
• A layer of peat is laid out in a plastic bag with holes made, and a layer of onions is laid on it. In this way, all available material is alternated. The last layer is peat. Instead of a bag, you can use a wooden box.
• They are planted in peat pots. Place them in a suitable container and leave in a storage area. In the spring, lilies are planted in the ground directly in them. You can speed up the process of their growth - you just need to expose the pots to the sun. If the sprout hatches too early, then it is transplanted into a regular pot.
• Some gardeners store the bulbs in the ground, arranging special "houses" for them.

Carefully choose a place where the roots of flowers will winter. There are a number of room requirements:

1. 1. Air temperature 0 + 4 ° C.
2. 2. Average level of air humidity. With an increase, the roots will begin to germinate, with a decrease, they wrinkle.
3. 3. The room must be ventilated, otherwise mold will appear and the bulbs will rot.

Bulbs are often stored in the vegetable compartment of the refrigerator. The temperature and humidity are suitable there, however, nearby fruits can release ethylene. This is detrimental to the bulbs.

A cellar or basement is suitable for storage. If such rooms are not available, then the poppies can be left in the garage or on the glazed balcony. In this case, it is necessary to take into account that in case of severe frosts, they can freeze. Therefore, the container where the bulbs lie is insulated with foam or any heat-insulating material.

Bulbs should be checked every month for rot or other damage. If any are found, then do the following:

• the affected bulbs are immediately isolated from healthy ones and subsequently stored separately;
• dried or shriveled bulbs are sprayed with water;
• the mold is removed with a dry cloth, and the bulbs are soaked in a disinfectant solution (potassium permanganate or any fungicide) for half an hour;
• rot is removed with a clean knife to healthy tissue, the cut site is sprinkled with crushed activated carbon.

Subject to all storage conditions, lilies will tolerate winter well and delight with their flowering next year.

Measures to prepare lilies for cold weather are quite simple and do not require much effort. When conducting them, it is worth being guided by the characteristics of the lily variety and the climate in which they grow.