Distinctive features of the tiger lily
Considering that among the species lilies there are several similar (tall, with orange flowers and dark specks), and the name "lily" is popularly used to refer to even other plants (the same daylily, eucharis, etc.), it will not be superfluous indicate the features that, when buying a real species tiger lily, will help to distinguish it from “false lilies”, and from similar species, and even from hybrids. Quite often, inexperienced growers call the naturalized tiger lily Orange Daylily (Hemerocallis fulva) - a perennial rhizome plant that also blooms from mid-summer with orange flowers on high peduncles and is characterized by relative shade tolerance and frost resistance. The easiest way to distinguish a daylily from a real tiger lily is by its leaves: in the first, they are long, arched, collected in a basal rosette, and its peduncles are without leaves; and in the second, they are shorter, narrow lanceolate (hence the second name of the species), alternately located along the stem to the very top. In addition, the flowers of the daylily are funnel-shaped, not turban-shaped, and wither after 1 - 2 days, and the lilies keep for almost a week. As for other species, the characteristic turban-like shape of flowers and specks on the petals are also inherent in the magnificent Lily (L. superbum) and Henry's Lily (L. henryi). Outwardly, the first of them is easy to distinguish from the tiger lily by the structure of the leaves: their next arrangement is observed only in the upper part of the stalk of the magnificent lily, since in the lower part they are located in whorls (small rosettes on the stem) of 5 - 7 leaves. Lily Henry can be identified by the color of the violet-red bulb (in the tiger lily it is white) and the presence of a nectar-bearing furrow (reminiscent of the "beard" of bearded irises) on the flower petals. A clear difference between both species from the tiger lily is that the latter forms small dark brown buds in the axils of the upper leaves, with the help of which it can easily reproduce even without the participation of a gardener.
Please note: the buds of the tiger lily are formed on the stem very early - literally from the second year of life, although the plant begins to bloom only in the 3rd - 4th year. At the same time, with age, the number of buds grows annually: in the first year there are on average 20, in the second - already about 40, and in the third - over 80
It is interesting that in the first year of development, the planted bud grows only a whorl (rosette) of 5 - 8 leaves 15 - 20 cm long, and the tiger leafy stem with buds characteristic of a lily is only from the second year of life. Tiger lily hybrids also form buds from the second year of life, however, with the entry of plants into flowering, their number, on the contrary, decreases and, in the end, they, alas, in most hybrids generally cease to form. Given that the collection and planting of buds is the simplest and fastest way to reproduce these lilies, it is recommended to start this procedure as early as possible when growing hybrids. By the way, in order to distinguish a real species tiger lily from a hybrid when buying planting material, pay attention to the marking of the plant, which indicates the belonging of the lily to a certain group (from 1 to 9), the direction of its flowers (a - up, b - to the side or c - down) and their shape (a - tubular, b - cupped, c - flat or d - turban). In accordance with the International classification, tiger lily hybrids belong to the I group (Asian hybrids, The Asiatic Hybrids) and, depending on the direction of the flowers, can be marked Ia, Ib and Ic.And the tiger lily, along with other species lilies, is included in group IX (Kinds of lilies) and is always labeled IXc / d, which means “species lily with drooping turbid flowers”.
Signs associated with Tiger Lilies
In different cultures, lilies have been attributed a special meaning, both positive and negative. For example, in Germany they believed that these were houses for elves, in other countries it was a symbol of immorality and remorse. It was believed that the lily is able to help those who are separated from their beloved find peace of mind.
Some people perceive the lily as a talisman and energy donor, believe that the plant brings harmony to relationships, helps to find love and marital happiness. It is believed that if you plant a flower near the house, it will protect household members from the influence of otherworldly forces and the evil eye. But at the same time, there is an opinion that keeping lilies in the house is dangerous - supposedly their changeable energy can provoke scandals.
Also, some believe that this plant is an energy vampire, so keeping it in the house can lead to a bad mood and a breakdown.
Great importance is attached to color. For example, flowers of light shades personify purity and purity of thoughts, therefore they are often used for bridal bouquets and tender declarations of love. Tiger lilies are the choice of bright, creative people who love to impress.
It will also be interesting: Lilia Longiflorum (Lancon, Dolcetto, Miyabi) - caring for long-flowered plants
Growing
When buying, it is advisable to choose bulbs that have live (not dried out) lumps.
If possible, plant lily bulbs immediately after purchasing them, at any time: in the fall or spring.
Often in the spring, bulbs are supplied to Russia when the soil is not yet warmed up enough. You can plant the bulbs in pots and keep them cool (for example, in the refrigerator at -10 ° C). If sprouts appear, immediately expose the plants to light. Remember that spring frosts are dangerous for bulbs grown indoors. Most lilies grow best in shade or partial shade, although some turbid species and varieties thrive well in open areas. Stem-root lilies should be planted to a depth of 15-20 cm. L. cemdidum and L. testaceum should be covered with a layer of soil not exceeding the height of the bulb; for other lilies this layer should be twice the height of the bulb.
After planting, mulch with well-rotted garden compost or leafy soil.
Scatter slug pellets near the plants in early spring and prepare supports for tall lines. Wire ring supports are easiest to use and are less conspicuous. Removing the stamens before they have produced abundant pollen will extend the flowering time. Withered flowers should be removed, but as many leaves as possible should be left to allow the bulbs to ripen by next year. Every spring it is required to apply a prolonged-release fertilizer and mulch the soil around the lilies. To maintain healthy growth, plants are transplanted every three years.
Plant 2-3 bulbs in a 25-cm pot of all-purpose flower pot, placing a large layer of shards on the bottom for drainage. Stem-root lilies should be planted by burying the bulbs into the ground by at least 7.5 cm, and then gradually adding soil as the shoots grow. The rest of the lilies should be planted at a depth three times the height of the bulbs. The exceptions are L. candidum and L. testaceum, in which the planting depth should be twice the height of the bulbs.
During the growth period, you need to water the plants abundantly and give liquid potash fertilizer once a month. For the winter, plant the bulbs in pots or place them in crates of damp peat in a cool, dry place.
Repot your potted lilies every fall.
Reproduction
Please note: uncontrolled reproduction of lilies by tiger buds can lead to excessive thickening of the plantings. So it is better to take control of this process right away - collect the bulbs in August - September and plant them in a prepared place to a depth of 5 cm in grooves with a minimum row spacing of 10 cm
They take root in the fall and usually winter well, but in case of severe frosts, with the beginning of freezing of the soil, it is advisable to cover the garden bed with a layer of leaves (no thicker than 10-15 cm) until spring. Self-seeding in the matter of thickening of the tiger lily presents fewer problems, since the germination of its seeds is usually very low (below 70%). Reproduction by scales, which is better combined with the transplant procedure, is also permissible, but more troublesome. After separation from the mother bulb, the scales must be sprinkled with charcoal or TMTD powder, then germinated in a greenhouse (20 - 25 ° C) for 2 - 3 months in wet sand (sphagnum, sawdust, etc.) and kept until planting in spring in a cool, dimly lit place. Despite the fact that lilies grown from scales can bloom a year earlier (2 - 3 years) than those grown from buds, most gardeners prefer not to bother with scales and more often use a simpler method of reproduction.
Propagation of lilies by bulbs
Lilies can also be propagated by "half-bulbs" - the so-called bulbs. This is the safest growing method for the plant. Bulbules form in the axils of the leaves and on the stem during flowering. Sometimes their number can reach several dozen, but they are formed only on certain varieties of lilies (they are also called "bulbous"), such as Aelita, Kalinka, Pink haze. It is quite simple to determine that the bulb is ready for transplanting - it easily separates from the stem, and small roots and leaves are already visible on it.
It is necessary to collect the bulbs almost immediately after flowering, because then they fall off, germinate and begin to clog the flower garden. This usually happens in August-September, so they can be planted almost immediately. If you want to plant bulbs in the spring, then hide them in the refrigerator, sprinkle with dry sand or sawdust, and store at a temperature of 3-5 ° C.
Before the autumn planting, it is also advisable to stratify the lily bulbs in the refrigerator for 3-4 weeks at a temperature of 3-4 ° C.
Sprouted bulbs can be sown immediately in open ground or in containers to a depth of 2-3 cm, keeping a distance of 4-5 cm between them. Planted bulbs must be watered, mulched with peat chips or leaf humus. A high-quality substrate is prepared from coconut fiber, vermicompost and washed coarse sand. To do this, mix 2 parts of vermicompost with 4 parts of coconut fiber and 1 part of sand.
For the winter, it is advisable to cover the bulbs with spruce branches or straw. Although there are cases when they endured frosts down to –30 ° C without any shelter, it is better to play it safe.
Lily shoots appear next spring. Young plants are still very vulnerable, and they need to be regularly watered, removed weeds and fed (for example, with ammonium nitrate or urea at the rate of 2 tablespoons per 1 square meter).
Flowering begins the next year, but it is better to remove the buds - let the one-year-old plants get stronger. But in the third year, the flowers will bloom in full force and delight the eye with bright colors.
What stimulates the growth of bulbs:
- most often bulbs appear on young lilies;
- adherence to agricultural techniques and proper care contribute to the formation of air bulbs;
- damp summer favors the growth of bulbs;
- removal of buds (decapitation) provokes the growth of buds in the axils of the stem and leaves;
Caring for lilies in the garden
To grow beautiful, healthy flowers, you need to take care of them. Caring for lilies is not much different from standard caring for other flowers:
- watered;
- loosen, remove weeds;
- feed.
Abundant watering is not necessary for lilies, as it will lead to stagnation of water, from which the roots will rot. Lack of moisture is also harmful.
In spring, flowers are watered more often, as foliage grows intensively. In the summer, watering is reduced. To bloom for a long time, watered 1 time in 7 days. When flowering is over, watering is added.
How to feed lilies for lush flowering in the garden
To make lilies bloom magnificently, they are fed.
- With the beginning of spring, the plants are fed with nitrogen. Ammonium nitrate or urea is scattered on the surface of the soil around the bushes (2 tablespoons per 1 m²).
- If the soil is dry, then watered under the roots (2 tablespoons per 10 liter watering can).
- During the summer, the plants are fed twice. During the formation of buds, one more fertilizing with minerals (phosphorus, potassium) is carried out. Dilute 1 tbsp. a spoonful of azofoska in a bucket (10 l) of water. At the end of flowering, the lilies are fed again, since the reserves of nutrients have been used up for an abundant color.
Note! Wood ash is added to any top dressing in the summer (100 g per 1 m²)
How to cut flowers correctly
Lilies are rarely cut.
Sometimes there is a desire to put a vase with a delicate bouquet at home.
In order not to harm the plant by pruning, they observe some nuances:
- in the afternoon in sunny weather, you cannot cut flowers, only in cloudy early morning or evening;
- a sterile knife is used, it is treated with alcohol;
- the stem is not cut off completely, a third part is left to feed the bulb;
- so that water does not stagnate at the cut site after rain, it is made obliquely.
How to prepare a lily for winter
Before the onset of winter cold weather, the flowers are prepared for wintering:
- when the stems are dry, they are cut off, leaving at least 10 cm;
- they are fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (nitrogen is not needed), since after flowering a bulb is formed, it needs nutrition;
- make a thick layer of mulch from foliage, sawdust, hay.
For this purpose, needles are the most suitable choice. It will protect against frost, slugs, mice.
Cover with material from above
Caring for lilies after flowering
After flowering, the underground part is strengthened, buds are formed. Nutrition comes not only from the soil. The stems and leaves (due to the process of photosynthesis) also nourish the bulb.
How to process lilies
Overgrown plantings, weeds, insufficient care of flowers lead to diseases. Caring flower growers begin the fight against diseases, insect pests from the time of planting.
The most effective method of protection is prevention. Plants need to be examined more often in order to notice the disease or insects that have flocked to the juicy stems of lilies in time.
Pest control
There are up to a dozen dangerous lovers of lilies. The most common ones are:
- curling leaves indicates a spider mite. Sprayed with phytoverm, actellik;
- the squeak beetle is clearly visible on the leaves. Against him, flowers are sprayed with decis, karbofos;
- lily fly lays eggs in buds. Processing is required three times. Apply karbofos, ditox;
- The bear eats roots, bulbs, damaging them, leaving numerous holes in the ground. Thunder or grizzly preparations are poured into them. The same funds will help against the larvae of the May beetle (crustacean).
Note! Start processing immediately, until a lot of pests have developed. There is a wide selection of insect repellents and bulbs in the shops
Instructions for the use of drugs are indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging.
