Lily "Epricot Fudge" (34 photos): description of the Apricot Fudge variety, planting and care

Growing

Lilies are grown in several ways:

On a note! Breeding with seeds is quite troublesome. It is possible to get from them a full-fledged bulb that gives a peduncle only after a few years. Therefore, basically, the seed in the form of bulbs is purchased at the store or the lily is grown from scales. Since the lily bulb is not dense, the outer scales are easily separated from it, which are quite suitable for flower reproduction.

First of all, such flakes are placed in a solution with a dressing agent for 15-30 minutes. To prepare such a solution, you need to take 1 ampoule Maxim (for bulbous and corms) and 2 liters of water. After that, the scales are folded on the bottom of a clean dark bag (you can take a bag for garbage), the Sfagnum moss, which has a disinfecting property, is laid, then a layer of etched scales and again a layer of moss on top. The bag should be tied up and stored in a cool, but not damp place for several months.

It is required to periodically check the contents for the possibility of dampness and rot. After the specified time has elapsed, from one to several bulbs will grow on the lower part of the scales. They can be planted in a container without tearing them off the scales, and in the spring already in the ground. Steamed soil is required for planting. Alternatively, you can buy soil for violets in the store. Thus, practically out of garbage, you can provide yourself and others with free seed.

When buying lily bulbs for planting, you should inspect the bottom for the presence of:

rot;
external damage to the bulb;
completely dried roots.

If these signs are present, the bulb is discarded. The bottom should not be sagging inside. Sprouted bulbs are also a disadvantage. You can buy them, but storage in the refrigerator will not save you from further germination, it is better to immediately plant them in a container, for example, in a cut plastic bottle.

Additional Information! Store-bought bulbs must be treated with fungicidal preparations for fungal diseases. It can be both biologic (Fitosporin) and chemical agents (Topaz, Skor and others).

Trim long tangled roots a little before planting. It is not worthwhile to deeply deepen the onion into the container. Due to the peculiarity of the roots of lilies to grow down, if there is not enough space, they will begin to curl and can crawl out to the surface.

Top dressing for lilies

Any complex mineral fertilizers with microelements are suitable as top dressing. You can use organic matter (vermicompost, dry chicken, horse manure). In mid-May, the plants are planted in the ground from the pot by the transfer method so as not to damage the roots. The lower leaves should be removed and the trunk should be deepened by 5-7 cm when planting, planted at a distance of 20-25 cm from each other. But it should be borne in mind that recurrent frosts can destroy the sprouted sprout.

Attention! Lilies absolutely do not tolerate subzero temperatures!

If a bulb is planted in the ground, then they do it according to the established rule: the planting depth is equal to the size of the bulbs multiplied by 3.

Another problem may arise: to prevent lily bulbs from germinating during transportation, manufacturers treat them with inhibitors (drugs that inhibit growth). This can subsequently affect the height of the peduncle. As a result, buds can form on a stem 10-15 cm high. Do not be afraid of this, the acquired plant is not dwarf. Next year it will be normal size.

Features of the variety

The Apricot Fudge lily is considered a giant because with proper care it can grow up to 1 meter tall. It all depends on the size of the bulb - the larger it is, the higher and larger the peduncle.In the first year of planting, the height of the plant can reach 75 cm, which allows it to be grown in the foreground in flower beds and containers in indoor conditions in winter.

The flower stands for a very long time in bouquets when cutting and when creating flower arrangements, thanks to the density of wax petals. Blooms from late June to August.

The variety of colors of Epricot Fudge lilies is small:

yellow;
cream;
salmon;
orange;
apricot.

Lily Epricot Fudge resembles a slightly elongated unopened rose. The flower has 5-6 petals, slightly curved inward, like a tulip. The pistil and brown stamens protrude far beyond the flower itself. When the bud opens, a pistil with stamens first appears, and then the flower itself opens.

Lily flower

The diameter of the flower is from 7 to 10 cm, and the length reaches 13-15 cm. On the peduncle there can be up to 30 flowers at the same time, looking up, and their color changes depending on the degree of opening of the petals. When fully opened, the tulip lily can be yellow to orange in color, and in the bud it is usually creamy peach or pinkish. All LA hybrids are characterized by a delicate delicate aroma of flowers.

There is another feature that one of the lily's parents, Epricot Fudge, gave as a gift. The description of this hybrid indicates its ability to form bulbs in the leaf axils. Ripening, they fall to the ground and germinate.

Lily characteristic

Elodie from the monocotyledonous class of the Liliaceae family, like all its relatives, is a perennial bulbous plant.

Description of the appearance of the lily:

The adorable early flowering lily of Elodie often reaches a height of 120 cm, less often 140, although the parameter is limited to 90-100 cm by the organizer.
The leaves of the plant are alternate, in a form traditional for all lilies. Average dimensions 14 × 1.5-1.6 cm, deep green.
The number of buds on a peduncle is 7-10 pcs.
The flowers are large, up to 15-17 cm in diameter, although in primitive plants they are much smaller. The petals are separate, radially symmetrical, their number is 10 pcs. The lower tiers consist of 6 large, slightly curved plates with wavy edges, the upper one consists of 3 "fanged" carved plates with 3 corners. The upper tier of petals usually appears from the second year of flowering.
The stigma of the flower is red with a purple tint, the nectaries are yellow with a greenish tint.
The corolla is pink with small dark, almost black dots. On the inner side, purple-pink strokes are clearly distinguished, the neck is white-yellow.

Different types

The root system of the Elodie lily includes:

basal and contractile roots growing from the bottom of the bulb;
suprapubic, helping to hold the stem.

The main characteristics of the Elodie variety:

lack of pollen on stamens;
very faint, practical, elusive aroma;
excellent winter hardiness up to -34 ° С;
disease resistance;
about 90 days pass from germination to the opening of the first buds;
flowering occurs in the second half of June - July;
vegetative reproduction.

Interesting! Elodie is an independent Asian hybrid. Has a variety - Double Elodie, characterized by a double number of petals in the lower tiers.

The Elodie lily is propagated by vegetative methods:

planting daughter bulbs;
growing from scales;
dividing the bulb.

Description of Apricot Fiudge lily with photo

This extravagant LA hybrid is the result of the fruitful work of Dutch breeders, it is derived from another widely known LA hybrid - Salmon Classic. Like its closest relative, Apricot Fudge exudes a faint and unpleasant scent. The shape of the flower is more reminiscent of a representative of the Pink, does not fully unfold, but maintains compactness.

The pistil and stamens extend far beyond the densely folded perianth lobes. Brownish chocolate anthers stand out in contrast against the background of dense creamy apricot petals with a double surface.

The plant reaches 70-80 cm in height, sometimes 1 m. The width is about 20 cm. Such dimensions are convenient for growing plants in containers or in the foreground of flower beds. The stem is tough and straight, well leafy. The blossoming flower has a diameter of 12-15 cm. There are five or more of them in the inflorescence. The description and photo give a general idea of the appearance and main characteristics of the Apricot Fiudge lily.

Pros and cons of the variety

As practice shows, and as the growers themselves prove, tulip lilies are completely unpretentious and not so demanding if we are talking about regular caring for them. This is what the variety stands out from all the others. Also, the variety has a large number of advantages, and they are very attracted to gardeners and florists, both experienced and those who are just starting their floricultural activity.

This variety has a very unusual and attractive flower shape that exudes a very subtle but very characteristic aroma. Flowering is early, which also should be noted as a positive feature. In addition, more than 20 inflorescences bloom on one stem, which makes the flower very rich and unusually beautiful. The variety is resistant to sudden changes in temperature and frost, but it is still best to cover the bushes with straw or dry grass, just in case.

If we talk about the shortcomings, then they also exist. So, flower growers have repeatedly noted that in the design of flower beds, lilies are best combined with other simpler flowers than with other varieties of lilies, since they can be lost among them. Also, nevertheless, the variety of colors today is not so great, although for many the presented color palette is very bright and relevant, but here everything depends solely on the subjective opinion and tastes of the flower growers themselves. The variety has spread very widely throughout the territory of our country today, as recently the interest has increased even more. Most likely, in the near future, we will be able to even more often see these beautiful flowers in personal plots, since they have a large number of advantages and are not at all capricious if we are talking about caring for them.

Thus, Tulip Lily is a great alternative to many other plants and varieties.

Reproduction

Lily is propagated:

Scales. It is necessary to separate several scales from the bulb, rinse and treat with a fungicide. They should lie in moist moss for 2 months in a warm place. When the bulb is released from the scales, it is planted in the ground from the site on which it is planned to plant the plant in the future. In the spring - to the area of the site. You need to wait for flowering in 3-4 years.
Bulbs. As the lily grows, it is dug up, divided into parts and seated.
Seeds. Pollination usually takes place naturally and does not require the help of a gardener. But to get a new variety, you need your own strength and a tool - a thin brush, with which they transfer pollen from one lily to another, wrap the pistil in foil paper.

Lily is multiplied

At the end of the ripening process, the seed pods are removed, dried and placed in a cold place. In spring and autumn, seeds are poured into a bag with one of the nutrient substrates, for example, it can be wet sphagnum moss mixed with charcoal and peat. At the end of 2-3 months, tiny onions will grow from the seeds, which must be returned to the cold again and stored there for about 3 months.

Growing

Lilies are grown in several ways:

seeds;
scales;
baby bulbs.

Lily bulbs

When buying lily bulbs for planting, you should inspect the bottom for the presence of:

rot;
external damage to the bulb;
completely dried roots.

Additional Information! Store-bought bulbs must be treated with fungicidal preparations for fungal diseases. It can be both biologic (Fitosporin) and chemical agents (Topaz, Skor and others).

Top dressing for lilies

Attention! Lilies absolutely do not tolerate subzero temperatures!

If a bulb is planted in the ground, then they do it according to the established rule: the planting depth is equal to the size of the bulbs multiplied by 3.

Lily Apricot Fudge - or maybe a tulip, or a rose?

Meet Apricot Fudge Lily, an exotic Asian hybrid. Why exotic, you ask? Simply in shape, this amazing flower resembles a tulip or a half-open rose.

Lily Epricot Fudge
Lily - tulip - rose

Inflorescence - not all flowers are still in full bloom

The flower has a delicate peach-orange or apricot color with green veins from the beginning of the petals, which is also very similar to some varieties of tulips. The diameter of a single flower is 5-7 cm

Green veins on apricot background
Young inflorescence

When the bud opens, elastic long chocolate-colored stamens appear first - so we can determine that it is a lily in front of us. Well, in the shape of the stem and foliage, of course. By the way, my Epricot Fudge has grown by 60 cm, but the height of a flower can reach one meter.

Distinctive stamens
Chocolate sticks in inflorescence

Asian hybrids are frost-hardy lilies and thrive in central Russia. Let's hope my Epricot Fudge is no different. But just in case, I will cover / mulch it before the onset of frost. I got the bulbs (three in total) of excellent quality - both the bulbs themselves and the shape of the packaging (for each onion there is a bag with holes and a label, and everything is wrapped in craft paper).

My bulbs were not spared by the May frosts either - I had to keep the poor onions striving for light on the lower shelf of the refrigerator until the end of May. Where they thrived and sprouted, one generally had a shoot, shaped like a bold letter "G". I planted them to a depth of 15 cm with a distance of 25 cm between the bulbs. The letter "G" was looking for a way to the light in the ground for a very long time, sprouted, but never bloomed. And one more of the three bulbs showed the rudiments of 5 buds, but in the end one bloomed. In general, this amazing lily produces more than five flowers per inflorescence.

I suggest you fully admire this exotic at different stages of inflorescence development.

Half-open inflorescence
Against the background of the house
And the last thing.

Tulip lily: top dressing

Top dressing is a very important part of plant care. It is best to choose mineral complexes that already contain pre-mixed components in the right amount. You can also use organic fertilizers, they are also great for plants, they can help them grow actively, strengthen the inflorescences, and increase their number. Usually biological humus, dry chicken manure or horse manure are chosen as organic matter. In May, plants are planted in open ground, it is best to transfer them so as not to damage the root system, which by that time has already grown well. The distance between plants should be at least 25 centimeters. You should also monitor the weather conditions, because even in May, there are often recurrent frosts that can quickly destroy a newly planted plant or harm it so much that it will grow very small and weak, and the inflorescences will be completely unattractive.

In order for the lily to meet the expectations of the grower, he needs to follow several basic rules. If you take them into account, you can create a unique and very decorative daylily that will delight the grower for more than one year. This requires the following:

- choice of location - it must be very sunny, located on a hill, so as not to allow moisture to stagnate in the soil after watering

- the soil should be loose and well-ventilated, acidity - neutral

- flowers really need moisture, but after the flowering period has stopped, it is best to gradually reduce watering, and then completely stop

- before the flowering period begins, it is necessary to fertilize the plants with complex mineral fertilizers, which contain all the necessary phosphorus and potassium components, which have an excellent effect on the growth, development and formation of inflorescences

- in the fall, the plant should be cut off, and after that the soil around the flower is mulched with peat or sawdust. Thus, you can protect the plant from frost or sudden changes in temperature.

-approximately once every 4 years, the plant must be transplanted from one place to another. The soil can be depleted, and the plant without replanting will be depleted along with it.

Correct care

There are several conditions under which the lily will actively develop and delight the gardener with lush and abundant flowering.

When caring for a plant, pay attention to a number of points.

Lighting

The culture loves sunlight, which means that it is not recommended to plant it next to tall plants. But undersized species may well act as neighbors - they will protect the root part from direct sunlight.If the flower is planted in the shade, then its stems will begin to stretch in the direction of the light, they will be fragile, the growth of the bulbs will slow down, and the flowering will be weak.

Watering

Moderation is important in this part of the care. If precipitation continues, then the plant does not need moisture.

You cannot water the flower if the soil has not yet dried out.

Top dressing

This is a very important moment in the life of a plant. When the stem grows to 10-15 cm, add 25 g of ammonium nitrate per 1 m2. During budding, 100 g of ash or 30 g of mineral fertilizer per 1 m2 are used as additional nutrition. After flowering, the culture is fed with 1 tbsp. l. double superphosphate per 10 liters of water.

It is important to know that applying fresh organic fertilizers can lead to the spread of fungus, so avoid such feeding. And also give up fertilization during the flowering period, otherwise it will quickly stop.

Do not forget to systematically loosen the soil, as well as protect the plant from drying out and overheating with a 5-6 cm layer of mulch, for example, peat, pine chips, coniferous litter.

Preparing for winter

Once flowering is complete, the stem should be cut just below the former bud. After such a procedure, the culture will begin to invest all its energy in the formation of the bulb and will not waste energy on ripening the seeds.

In general, these flowers are frost-resistant (up to -34 degrees Celsius) and do not need insulation for the winter, they winter well under the snow, but if frosts have already begun and the snow has not yet fallen, then it is recommended to protect the plant from the cold by mulching. It is better to use needles for this, since it protects the culture not only from frost, but also from slugs, which begin to destroy lilies in the spring.

It is also important to remove the mulch on time as the snow melts.

If the culture is planted in a container, then in winter it is kept at low positive temperatures. Heat is contraindicated at this time.

Reproduction, planting and transplantation of lilies Apricot Fiudge

Like Asian hybrids, this lily reproduces by dividing the nest of bulbs:

This procedure is carried out when 4-5 bulbs have formed in the nests (determined by the number of peduncles).
Planting the bulbs can be planned for the spring (second half of May, after the end of the frost) or the beginning of autumn:
A place protected from strong winds should be selected.
It should not be subject to prolonged stagnation of water, otherwise excess moisture will provoke rotting of the bulbs.
Neutral and slightly acidic soils are preferred.
For planting, you need to prepare a hole 30-40 cm deep and fill it 2/3 with loose soil mixture (earth + baking powder). Such a "pillow" will provide the roots with an excellent water-air regime.
Planting depth - 10-15 cm (or the height of the bulb, multiplied by 3).
The distance between the pits is 25-35 cm.
Then it is necessary to sprinkle with soil mixture with a baking powder (agroperlite or coarse river sand) with the addition of peat or rotted organic matter.
After that, water the seedling abundantly with warm water.

Lilies of this species need to change their habitat after 4-5 years.

The bulbs are crowded, overgrown with children, become loose and vulnerable to disease. Therefore, the nests are dug, the mother's part and the children are seated separately in new holes. Before transplanting, it is necessary to remove damaged scales and dried old roots.

If you separate the scales from the bulb and create favorable conditions for them (heat + moistened moss), then small onions are formed from them. A refrigerator is suitable as a wintering place for them. With the arrival of spring, they need to be placed in pots, and in May - in open ground.

Reproduction by bulbs appearing on the stem is possible. These small bulbs fall off, take root and germinate. They can be harvested and transplanted.

Used for propagation and cuttings (parts of the stem with a dormant bud, leaves with a piece of stem). They are cut, the lower leaves are removed and planted in the ground to a depth of 2-3 cm.After 1-2 months, the bulbs that appear are separated and planted in a container at the same depth. After a certain time, sprouts appear.

Lily is also propagated by seeds. This is done for breeding purposes. Seeds are sown in special containers in February-March. When a real leaf appears, the seedlings dive. Before the onset of cold weather, they are warm, and in winter they are placed in a basement with a temperature of + 4-6 ° C. The flowering of the plant in this case occurs in 3-7 years.

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Diseases and pests of lilies Apricot Fuj

Lilies are susceptible to fungal, viral diseases, as well as pest attacks:

In cold and wet weather, you should be wary of such a disease as botrytis (or gray rot). First, the young leaves of the lower part of the lily are affected (brownish-red spots appear), then the disease quickly spreads to the stem and buds. When the stems reach 8-10 cm, for prevention, it is advisable to water them with a mixture with such compositions (the first solution must be poured into the second):
- 5 liters of hot water + 1 tbsp. l. copper sulfate;
- 5 liters of cold water + 1 tbsp. l. ammonia + 1 tbsp. l. calcined water.
When botrytis appears, you need to spray the plants with Bordeaux liquid three times per season. If the situation has worsened - Fitosporin or Fundazole every two weeks.
Another serious disease is fusarium (bulb bottom rot). Fungal spores spread quickly in the absence of drainage, in cases of application of fresh manure, waterlogging and high soil temperatures. The bulbs need to be dug out, rinsed thoroughly and kept in the Fundazole solution for half an hour (no more, otherwise the roots will suffer).
For bacterial rot, brown spots appear on the leaves, then these plant organs turn yellow and fall off. To prevent the problem, dressing the bulbs before planting with a pink solution of potassium permanganate and treating them with fungicides during emergence helps. If rot does appear at the flowering stage, all damaged areas must be destroyed.
Pythium leads to rotting of the roots of the bulb. As a result, the leaves turn yellow, the stem dries and withers. The affected areas are subject to emergency removal. As a preventive measure, on the eve of planting, the soil is treated with a solution of colloidal sulfur, and the bulbs are kept in the Fundazole solution.
The appearance of yellow, orange or brown spots on the leaves is evidence of rust damage. The affected leaves must be removed, and the lily must be sprayed with Bordeaux liquid.
Bulbs may develop greenish white spots during storage. This is blue mold. Sick bulbs must be discarded, and to prevent mold from appearing, follow the storage rules.
When nematodes appear behind the scales of the bulbs, the leaves turn yellowish-brown and gradually fall off. These worms also live in the ground. Means such as Nematofagin, Pharmayod, Rogor help to resist them. To prevent the appearance of nematodes, you need to hold the bulbs in hot water (50-52 ° C) for about 10 minutes before planting, and remove weeds in a timely manner.
Among viral diseases, viruses of cucumber and tobacco mosaic are widespread. As a rule, they are carried by aphids and through gardening tools. They are characterized by light streaks and ring spots on flowers and leaves. The stem of the affected plants is deformed and slows down growth. It is necessary to destroy the affected lilies, spray the plantings with Karbofos (against aphids) and disinfect the equipment.
The presence of a red spider mite can be suspected when the leaves curl and the lily dries up. The remedy will be Karbofos or preparations for ticks (Apollo, Aktofit).
Against the squeaky beetle (lily beetle, bulbous rattle), which intensively destroys leaves, you can use Karbofos or Decis. The best method is hand picking.
The lily fly prefers to feast on the pistils and anthers of the stamens inside the buds. These buds need to be destroyed and the plant treated with insecticides (for example, Ditox, EC).
Medvedok and beetle larvae (larvae of the May beetle), which eat the underground part of the plants, should be destroyed during deep digging before planting the bulbs. Or then add Medvetox, Grizzly, Thunder preparations to the soil in accordance with the instructions.
Another dangerous pest is the click beetle (aka wireworm), or rather its adult larvae, which feast on bulbs. Vallar, Provotox, Medvetox are used against them.

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