Red violets (Saintpaulias): varieties and agricultural technology

Fruit characteristics

The sizes of the fruits are below average or average size, the standard weight of one apple is 80-90 g, the maximum is 120 g. As the tree grows and matures, the apples become smaller, but they retain an attractive appearance, even rounded or flat-round shape.

The fruits of the "Red Early" apple tree are medium-sized, round in shape. On their skin, a pattern of light elongated spots and wide merging stripes is clearly visible

The funnel is narrow and deep, without the presence of rustiness, has a conical shape; the saucer is wide, shallow; the calyx is half-open; the subcutaneous tube is short; small heart, bulbous; seeds are medium in size, brown in color. The skin is smooth, covered with a thick waxy bloom. Its main color is light yellow, the integumentary color is in the form of a bright red, blurred blush, in which there is a pattern of wide merging stripes and light elongated spots. Subcutaneous dots of medium size, white, well visible.

The flesh is creamy in color; near the skin it often has a reddish tint. In consistency, it is of medium density, tender, juicy, with a well-defined aroma.

Fruits have a dessert flavor and are intended for fresh consumption

Apples of this variety are dessert ones and have a pleasant sweet and sour taste with a predominance of sweetness. According to the results of laboratory studies, the sugar acidity coefficient (SCI) is 18.5. The tasters rated the palatability 4.4 on a 5-point scale.

According to VNIISPK, the biochemical composition of the fruits is as follows:

Repaired large-fruited raspberry Red Guard

When choosing a suitable raspberry variety for cultivation on your site, you should carefully study the characteristics of the plant itself, its fruits, average yield indicators and take into account the ripening period of the berries, based on which the final decision should be made regarding the appropriateness of placing a particular plant on your site.

The appearance of the bushes, the size and appearance of the berries, the timing of fruiting

The productive qualities of the Krasnaya Gvardiya variety are largely due to the power of the plant itself. On dense, upright shoots, reaching a height of 1.6 m, the same large berries are formed, weighing 12-18 g each. In length, elongated fruits grow up to 5 cm, reaching mass harvesting maturity around the second half of July.

Plants bloom at the end of June and two weeks later you can already taste the first raspberry berries. Due to the close arrangement of neighboring shoots to each other, the harvesting process becomes very easy, since it is convenient to approach the bush from any side. Under suitable growing conditions, up to 5.5 kg of fruit can be harvested from one running meter of plantings.

Raspberry flavor Red Guard - dessert. Fully ripe fruits are very aromatic, juicy and sweet, with a pronounced raspberry aftertaste. At the same time, the pulp is characterized by a high density, due to which there are no significant problems with the transportation of the crop.

Advantages and disadvantages of the Red Guard variety

• According to the reviews of many summer residents, the raspberry of the described variety is indeed one of the most promising options for cultivation in a personal plot, and there are several reasons for this at once:
• earlier onset of fruiting (in comparison with other remontant varieties grown in a one-year cycle);
• high taste properties of berries and their attractive aroma;
• large-fruited (sometimes the length of raspberries reaches the values ​​of a matchbox);
• high indicators of frost resistance (up to -30 ° C), which allows the plant to be cultivated not only in the middle zone of the Russian Federation, but also in more northern regions of the country or even in Siberia;
• excellent resistance to many "raspberry" ailments, in particular fungal diseases;
• increased formation of root shoots, which makes the process of culture propagation on the site extremely simple.

• As for the disadvantages of the variety, there are noticeably fewer of them, and first of all, these are:
• increased need for formative pruning of bushes;
• the possibility of accretion of individual berries, which, according to some gardeners, spoils the appearance of the fruit;
• the tendency to mass formation of the root, because the growth of the raspberry in the backyard is not interesting to everyone.

Cinquefoil Red Ice bush - methods of reproduction

• Any gardeners think about how to propagate the culture in their area. Cinquefoil of the Red Ice variety reproduces in several ways: by layering, with the help of seeds, we grow cuttings and by dividing the bush into several parts.
• The process of growing bush cinquefoil using seeds is very laborious and time-consuming. It is possible to plant seedlings in open ground only 4 years after sowing the seeds. With this method of reproduction, there is a small probability of preserving the varietal characteristics of the culture.
• Experienced gardeners often use a propagation method such as layering. It is held in the fall, before the onset of cold weather. With him, you do not need to transplant the bush. Select the most developed branch for reproduction. Make a shallow groove near it, gently bend the branch to the soil, secure with hairpins and sprinkle with soil.
• Be sure to cut off all the petals from the cut and provide vigorous watering with warm water. Such actions will allow the development of its own root system. The next season, in early spring, separate the new sapling from the mother's branch and transplant to another location. Potentilla will bloom only next year.
• To breed Potentilla by dividing the bush, adult plants 5-7 years old are suitable. For this breeding method, dig out the entire bush in the spring. Divide it into several parts. Each of them must have renewal buds and a good root system. New bushes are replanted as described above. You can observe flowering in the same season.
• To breed Potentilla with cuttings, you will need lignified parts of the branches, which should be cut off by 10 cm. Separately mix the sand and peat, fill the pots with them and root the cuttings in them. At the same time, leave the top 2 cm. After a year, the seedlings can be planted in a flower bed.

Garden plants with medicinal properties, such as Red Ice Potentilla, can become not only a decoration for a garden plot, but also a raw material for making aromatic tea. In order for bright bushes to delight you with their flowering for a long period, follow the instructions for planting and caring for the plant indicated in the article.

The subtleties of agricultural technology

Experienced growers remind that for the successful cultivation and breeding of Saintpaulias, it is not enough to know only the description of the variety. In order for plants to fully develop and grow, they need to create favorable conditions for keeping. This assumes the fulfillment of basic requirements:

• optimal temperature conditions;
• suitable and sufficient lighting;
• optimal irrigation regime.

Saintpaulias are exotic plants that are painful to tolerate temperature changes and inappropriate lighting. To grow a healthy uzambara violet, which will soon delight with abundant flowering, it is necessary to maintain the temperature in the room where it grows at a level of 20-22 °. Lowering the air temperature to 16 ° and below can have a detrimental effect on the delicate flower.

One of the conditions ensuring long-term and abundant flowering of plants is their sufficient illumination. With a lack of light, they begin to ache, their peduncles and leaves stretch out, which noticeably spoils the appearance of the flower. In order for the plants to receive the right amount of natural light during the day, they are installed on a windowsill in the east or southwestern part of the house.For better illumination, flower pots are periodically rotated so that each side of the Saintpaulia can receive the sunlight it needs.

It is very important to observe the correct watering regime. Considering that violets tolerate excess moisture in the soil very painfully, it is necessary to water them as the substrate dries.

Watering is carried out only with warm, settled water

If, during watering, drops of water accidentally fall on the pubescent leaves, they should be carefully blotted with a dry cloth.

The next video is an overview of red violet seedlings from the Violetovoda collection.

Varieties

Bright red salvia varieties are few and far between, but most have won prestigious awards. Let's start with the most common variety:

• Lady in Red is a variety bred in 1996. Compact, 30 cm tall, with dense inflorescences of bright red flowers with purple calyxes;
• Forest Fire - with fiery red corollas and reddish-black cups;
• Cherry Blossom - up to 40 cm tall, with pink flowers, early flowering;
• Pseudococcinea is a subspecies (Salvia coccinea var.pseudococcinea) that is often featured as a cultivar. Tall, powerful, up to 1.2 m, heavily pubescent, forms many scarlet flowers in each inflorescence. The cups are green. Rare in culture, grown in Great Britain.
• Snow Nymph syn. Alba is a cultivar up to 60 cm tall, with white flowers and green cups.
• Lactea - Similar to the previous variety, also with white flowers;
• Jewel Red - compact, 45-60 cm tall, and earlier (blooms in just 2 months after sowing), with red flowers and purple cups
• Jewel Lavender - characterized by the same qualities, has lavender flowers;
• Jewel Pink - the tube of the flower is white on the outside, on the inside - pale salmon pink.

Origin and zoning of the variety

The apple tree "Red Early" was obtained at the All-Russian Research Center of Horticulture named after V.I. Michurin. Its authors are well-known breeders G. A. Lobanov, V. K. Zayets and Z. I. Ivanova, creators of a large number of popular varieties of culture, such as "Cherry", "Friendship of peoples", "Winter striped" and others.

In the photo - apple trees "Spring" (left) and "Melba" (right), used as parental forms when breeding the variety

Work on the creation and improvement of the new apple tree lasted fifteen years, from 1955 to 1970. "Red early" was the result of crossing of representatives of summer fruiting "Vesna" and "Melba". "Vesna" is known for its winter hardiness and resistance to fungal infections, and the Canadian "Melba" is known for its early maturity and high yield.

In 1978, the new variety was sent for testing, and in 1994 it was entered into the State Register of Breeding Achievements. The applicant and originator was FGBNU FNTs im. Michurin.

This plant thrives in regions with a temperate continental climate. The variety is zoned for the Central Black Earth and Lower Volga regions, but due to its high drought resistance it is very popular in the southern regions with long hot summers.

Characteristic

The variety "Red Lady" is zoned for the Central Black Earth, Caucasian, Middle Volga, Far Eastern regions. The yield depends on the growing conditions, the fertilizers used, the irrigation schedule, ranging from 17 to 30 tons per hectare.

The variety reaches its maximum yield on the 55th day after germination. Each bush gives at least 14 large potatoes, the amount of unmarketable fines is insignificant.

You can compare the yield indicators of Red Lady with other varieties in the table below:

Potato bush is strong, of medium height, erect. Leaves are medium-sized, dark green, intermediate type, with a slightly wavy edge. The corolla is simple, flower buds quickly fall off.

Read on our website everything about the use of fungicides, herbicides and insecticides, their benefits and harms, methods of application.

The Red Lady variety is resistant to major diseases: potato crayfish, golden nematode, scab, black leg, viral diseases and fungal infections: Alternaria, Fusarium, Verticillosis. There is an increased sensitivity to late blight (by tops). Tubers are little subject to mechanical stress, which makes harvesting easier.

Potatoes have excellent taste. It is suitable for boiling, baking, stewing, mashed potatoes. When cutting and heat treatment, the tubers do not darken, the color of the finished dishes is pleasant, creamy yellow. The taste is rich, without excessive dryness and wateriness. Tubers contain an increased amount of protein and B vitamins. Keeping quality is 92% and storage is not particularly difficult. However, you can study this issue in more detail and read all about storage in winter, in boxes, cleaned, in the refrigerator, about the timing.

Popular varieties of astilba

The basis of cultural selection of the plant astilbe (astilbe) are 10-12 species. Florists in many countries turned to the study of plants of this spectacular genus with interest. As a result of their painstaking work, today the hybrid astilba has more than 200 varieties. Among all the varietal diversity, several groups are most popular - Chinese astilba, Japanese and Arends hybrids, named after the German breeder Georg Adalbert Arends, who at the beginning of the 20th century became the founder of the modern breeding tradition of obtaining new astilbe hybrids.

Chinese hybrids

Chinese Astilba loves moist, unconsolidated soil, but some varieties develop well on clay soils, subject to appropriate mineral feeding. Grows 100 cm tall, blooms from mid-June to late August. White, lilac, pink flowers are bordered by complex tripartite leaves. The most common are:

1. Variety Superba is a tall bush with openwork pink panicles of inflorescences. It blooms for a month, starting in mid-August.
2. The Veronica Klose variety is distinguished by lush inflorescences of pink-lilac tones.
3. Astilba Chinese Purpurkerts is prized for its late flowering. Looks good in the design of rock gardens.

Japanese hybrids

Japanese Astilbe grows up to 80 cm. These are small bushes with white or pink panicles, consisting of small flowers. It blooms for 2-3 weeks in the middle of summer, but when it fades, it does not lose its attractiveness. Dry flower stalks can stand in a kind of graceful decor until late autumn. The varieties are winter-hardy, moist loamy soils for them are a comfortable growing environment. They have their own characteristics:

1. The Deutschland variety is notable for its dense white inflorescences. It is not recommended to be planted in the open sun; on hot summer days it needs abundant regular watering.
2. The Europa variety is a hemispherical bush, reaching 60 cm in diameter. Inflorescence colors - from pale pink to lilac tones.
3. Astilba Japanese Montgomery is a spherical bush up to 70 cm in diameter. Fluffy or delicate panicles of bright red or burgundy inflorescences.
4. Astilba Japanese Rhineland is classified as unpretentious. The inflorescence is pink. It grows up to 90 cm, on almost any soil, grows well in the shade, is not afraid of spaces open to the sun.

Astilba Arends

Constantly replenished with newly created varieties, such as Nemo, bred by breeders in the Arends tradition - by crossing David's Astilba as a base variety with other species. This is how the Pomegranate variety was obtained. Vigorous shrubs up to 100 cm tall, spherical or pyramidal in shape. The varieties are usually characterized by dark green leaves and white, lilac, red, pink inflorescences. These varieties of astilba bloom longer than all others - up to 40 days. New and traditional varieties:

1. A series of "precious stones", which is opened by Astilba Diamant - a bush up to 80 cm with dense snow-white or pink pyramidal inflorescences.Shows lush, abundant flowering even under the scorching sun. The series is continued by astilbe Spinel, lilac Opal, purple with a lilac hue Amethyst. The series is closed by the shortest growth (only 50-60 cm) astilba Garnet.
2. Augustleichten is a late flowering shrub with openwork bright red panicles.
3. Astilba Thunberg grows up to 100 cm. Pink inflorescences are racemose. Blooms in the second half of July.
4. Gloria Purpurea reaches a height of 70 cm. A sprawling dense bush with purple-pink flowers and dark red (green with age) leaves.
5. Astilba Cappuccino is distinguished by chocolate stems with white inflorescences at the ends. The leaves are openwork dark green. The variety is demanding for proper shading and constant moisture.
6. Astilba Radius is a compact shrub up to 75 cm with glossy dark green toothed leaves along the edges. A light aroma emanates from the red panicles of medium density.
7. Astilba pink Gloria is an unpretentious winter-hardy variety up to 80 cm. It has unique fluffy diamond-shaped inflorescences with a light aroma and original openwork foliage. It blooms for 30 days.
8. Astilba America reaches 70 cm, in rhombic inflorescences - large lavender-pink flowers. Unpretentious to growing conditions, therefore it is successfully used in city gardens and parks.
9. Astilba Nemo is a new variety with strong tall stems and dark green foliage. Blooms profusely with bright pink dense feathers.
10. Astilbe red Red blooms with bright red, like pomegranate, diamond-shaped inflorescences. Glossy leaves of double pinnation with reddish petioles give the plant a spectacular look when it is already or not yet blooming.

Agrotechnics

In order for the bush to give the declared yield, all agrotechnical measures, namely: planting and caring for the Red Guard raspberries, must be carried out at a high level. Growing under inappropriate conditions will negate all varietal benefits.

Landing

Everything here must be produced at the highest level of agrotechnical culture. All factors influencing the subsequent development of the plant must be taken into account.

Let's start by placing the bushes. When choosing a place, the best conditions that can be recommended when choosing a landing site are as follows:

1. The southern slope of the site. This arrangement will increase the amount of solar energy received by the plant.
2. Protection from cold winds and accumulation of snow in winter will be provided by a continuous fence installed from the north of the raspberry.
3. Loose soil will provide air penetration to the roots and moisture permeability.
4. There should not be a high level of groundwater and stagnant moisture in the summer. This disrupts the vital activity of soil microorganisms, which in turn leads to starvation of plants.

The best planting time for remontant raspberries is considered to be the second week after the spring frost. At this time, the buds begin to actively swell and the first snowdrops appear.

After choosing a suitable place, we will start marking future landings. We make the intervals between neighboring bushes by half a meter, and between the rows - from one and a half to two.

Next, we dig planting trenches or holes to a depth of 40-50 centimeters. If you are going to plant one variety of raspberries, then it is more convenient to dig a continuous trench, however, when laying a raspberry of different varieties, it is desirable to separate varieties, so in this case, leave small jumpers between the pits.

Depending on what kind of soil is on your site, a decision is made on the preparation of a soil mixture. There can be several options here, ranging from adding nutrients to your loose soil to completely replacing it with soil made up of different ingredients.

The raspberry planting technique is not difficult. It consists of several simple steps:

1. In the soil, covered in a trench or planting hole, we prepare a hole for the size of the root system of the seedling.
2. Water the hole and compact the soil in it.
3. We place the seedling in the hole and sprinkle with the removed soil.
4. Watering the planting.
5. We fill up the soil in place of the settled one.
6. We mulch.

Highly nutritious organic matter is used as mulch for raspberries: manure, compost, last year's leaves, and so on.

Advice! Sealing the planting holes is useful for both shrubs and vegetable crops. This allows you to recreate soil capillaries for the flow of moisture to the roots.

To obtain high-quality berries and high yields from Red Guard raspberries, it is necessary to carry out regular watering and feeding. Watering is carried out depending on the standing weather.

Three times a season, you need to feed the raspberry bushes with herbal infusion or other organic fertilizer. Each of them is needed for a special event in the life of a plant.

The first time this is done is when the raspberry is just starting to bloom.

The second is done at the end of July before ripening, and the third time the raspberries are fed in the winter. In the event that you have a lot of nutrient organics at your disposal, you can maintain a thick layer of organic mulch throughout the season and only water it abundantly on top of it.

Advice! Watering through a thick layer of organic mulch fills the soil with nourishment for microorganisms, and the thickness of the pad provides excellent gas exchange.

Pruning

And, of course, talking about a culture like raspberries, you can't do without talking about pruning. Since the "Krasnaya Gvardiya" is a remontant variety, it is entitled to a complete cut of the fruiting stems. Many do this in the fall, when the last leaves fall.

But the author of the variety Kazakov himself recommends doing this in the spring. There are several explanations for this. Firstly, in the case of thaws, root buds may germinate on cut raspberries and subsequent frosts will destroy them, while in uncut bushes, the buds will open on old shoots.

Secondly, by leaving the bushes until spring, we carry out some snow retention.

And as always, to consolidate the material, we watch the video, this time with the author of this variety, however, like many others, Academician Ivan Vasilyevich Kazakov.

Care

The content of koleria is not so troublesome, flower growers consider it undemanding and easy to care for, but do not forget that the flower comes from tropical rainforests. In order to somehow create natural conditions for the plant, you need to comply with the basic criteria.

• The plant needs regular watering, especially from spring to autumn. Moisturizing should be frequent, about twice a week, and intense. In the summer heat, you can slightly increase the amount, and in cool periods, on the contrary, reduce it. Water is used filtered or settled for several days. It is better to use alternately upper and lower watering, that is, moistening the soil in the usual way and pouring water into the pan. Do not allow liquid to get on parts of the plant: rotting may begin.
• Despite the fact that the flower prefers humid air, it tolerates the natural conditions of the apartment well. Spraying is not used: due to the villi, droplets of liquid are retained and can provoke putrefactive processes. If it is necessary to humidify the space, you can place an aquarium or dishes with water next to it, and wet pebbles are also laid out in the tray.
• Coleria is a thermophilic plant. She feels fine at + 22-25 degrees during warm periods.
• Lighting must be provided bright, but exclude direct sunlight. Western or eastern window sills are optimal for placement; in northern ones, the plant can die without additional lighting. In the midday heat, the flower should be shaded to avoid burns.
• Coleria is afraid of drafts, especially gusts of cold air. This should be taken into account when choosing the location of the plant.
• With the help of pruning, the flower is shaped and also maintained. If this is not done, the stems will be too elongated, bent, which will affect the number of emerging peduncles.When pruning a plant, first of all, dried and damaged shoots are removed, the knife must be disinfected. To create a lush bush and form a crown, the elongated shoots are cut by about a third. Cutting off the tops, they activate the activity of the axillary ovaries, thus new stems begin to form. The flower becomes more branched and voluminous. The tops can be used to propagate coleria.
• The plant loves the soil rather loose, with low acidity. To prevent root rot, a little charcoal can be added to the substrate.
• Fertilizers for coleria are used complex - for flowering plants or orchids. The recommended dose is halved. Top dressing is applied from April to September. There is no need to fertilize the plant during dormant periods.

The flowering period of the main part of the coleria varieties begins in July and ends in November. This is followed by a period of rest, when the processes of formation and growth are delayed, buds do not appear, although there are some species that bloom for almost a whole year. For abundant and long-term flowering, the plant needs to equip a place with good light, organize regular feeding and nutrient soil. It must be remembered: young koleriya rarely produces flower stalks, and starting from two years of life, the plant is already capable of blooming in full abundance.

During the dormant period, mainly in winter, koleria must create certain conditions:

• cut off all dried shoots and leaves;
• rearrange the flower in a cool but bright place with a temperature within +15 degrees;
• significantly reduce the amount of watering.