Cinquefoil blood red planting and care

Types and varieties of Potentilla

There are a great many types of Potentilla - more than half a thousand. They perfectly complement other flowers, bloom profusely and for a long time, for which gardeners love them so much. Therefore, in English and European gardens, a rare border can do without them. Shrub Potentilla looks great in hedges. Here are several types of Potentilla to suit different areas of your garden.

Cinquefoil for rockeries and alpine slides (ground cover varieties)

Cinquefoil is stemless.

Very low appearance, stem height 1-6 cm, likes stony, gravelly, sunny slopes, but the soil must be well drained and moist. Ideal candidate for an alpine slide.

Cinquefoil stemless

Shiny cinquefoil

Beautiful pink flowers against the background of small silvery-green leaves forming a carpet create an excellent decorative effect. Loves dry, sunny places, sandy soils, limestone talus, fine gravel.

Shiny cinquefoil

Altai cinquefoil

10-35 cm high, leaves are wide, carved, pubescent, bright yellow flowers. An excellent choice for rock gardens and rockeries.

Altai cinquefoil

Proper plant care

Cinquefoil is found in nature in Europe and Asia. The decorative variety Red Ice differs from wild relatives in its bright colors, but it is also hardy and unpretentious. Proper cultivation of shrubs in the country includes moderate watering, sprinkling and annual pruning.

Irrigation

In warm dry weather, Potentilla is watered 2-3 times a month. In a drought, the land under the bushes is moistened 1-2 times a week. The soil should be moderately moist

Therefore, it is important to choose an area with loose soil and take care of drainage. In the first year of growth, the bushes are sprinkled

For spraying, use water at room temperature, heated in the sun. Sprinkling is carried out once a day - in the morning or in the evening, at sunset.

Top dressing

In the first year of growth, Red Ice cinquefoil is not fed. For the growth of the crown and the strengthening of the roots, the seedlings have enough nutrients in the soil and fertilizers applied during the preparation of the planting holes.

In the second year, the bushes will begin to bloom actively, so you will need to feed them three times:

• before the opening of the kidneys, nitrogen is introduced;
• during the formation of buds - superphosphate and potassium;
• after flowering - potassium and phosphorus.

Fertilizers are dissolved in water for irrigation.

Weeding and mulching

The soil is covered with mulch after planting seedlings, in the fall, before frosts, and also after watering. Peat, sawdust, nutshells are used for coating. Mulching the soil prevents water evaporation and prevents weed seeds from germinating.

Forming and pruning a bush

Red Ice cinquefoil is cut 1-2 times a year:

• In the spring, before sap flow, branches are removed, damaged during the winter, growing inside the bush;
• in the fall, the faded shoots are cut off by a third.

The old branches of Potentilla must be cut off, as they bloom only once. The next year, the bushes release young shoots that bloom. Last year's branches thicken the plant and take nourishment from the new stems. Without pruning, the bushes bloom worse and with small flowers.

Once every 3-4 years in the fall, rejuvenating pruning is carried out - the branches are cut off almost completely, leaving 20 centimeters from the surface of the earth. Formative pruning is also done in the spring to maintain the shape of the bush. Cinquefoil is trimmed in the form of a ball or flat pillow. The plant keeps its shape well, so curly pruning is also carried out every 3 years.

Preventive treatments

Cinquefoil is resistant to diseases and pests.With improper care, the plant is affected by fungus and spider mites. Also, bushes pick up rust from conifers.

Measures for the prevention of fungal diseases:

• prevent stagnation of water in the soil;
• thin out the bush so that it allows air and sunlight to pass through, which pests do not like;
• monitor the condition of the leaves, remove damaged branches.

A mixture of boron and sulfur is used against rust. To prevent the appearance of a spider mite, cinquefoil in the spring, before flowering, is treated with Bordeaux liquid.

Frost protection

Red Ice cinquefoil is a frost-resistant shrub. In the southern regions, he will do without shelter.

In the northern and central regions, the plant is prepared for winter:

• cut the branches by a third;
• watering and mulching the soil with peat.

The thickness of the mulch layer is 15 centimeters.

White cinquefoil (P. alba)

The flowers of the species described above are yellow in color. It is predominant, but there are varieties with different shades of corollas. An example of this is white cinquefoil - another European species that grows from the center of Europe to the Balkans in the south and the Urals in the east.

A small perennial herb up to 25 cm high interested flower growers at the end of the 18th century. The reason is not only long flowering, lasting from the end of spring to August, unpretentiousness and frost resistance, but also high decorativeness. White flowers with five petals, a yellow core and long stamens look incredibly impressive against a background of dark green finger-like leaves. Among its wild-growing counterparts, this type of Potentilla can be called large-flowered. Corollas reach 30 mm in diameter and look even more expressive in loose inflorescences of five flowers.

Tree care

An unpretentious culture does not require special attention from its owners. For the minimum effort that will be spent, cherry plum will fully repay with a generous and tasty harvest.

Watering cherry plum

In dry years, young cherry plum seedlings (until the appearance of annual lateral shoots and the formation of an ovary on them) should be watered every 10 days. Each tree needs 30-40 liters of water.

Throughout the summer season, it is recommended to arrange drip irrigation of trees whenever possible (10-15 liters of water per tree).

It is necessary to carry out two plentiful (20-30 liters of water per tree) watering:

• A few weeks after flowering - during fruit formation (mid or late May).
• After harvest (mid September).

Top dressing

The first foliar feeding of cherry plum is carried out a month after planting the seedling. It consists in spraying the tree with a 0.5% urea solution. Consumption - 1-2 liters per tree.

Fertilization - table

Pruning

A semi-dwarf tree tolerates formative pruning well. This variety is prone to thickening, so the procedure should be carried out annually in early spring before bud break. It is enough to leave 10-12 strong skeletal branches for the normal growth of the tree.

From the second year of the seedling's life, annual shoots should be cut by 1/3 of their length.This will help to strengthen the shoots, which can break and crack under the weight of the harvest, because the flowers and ovary are located in the middle part of annual shoots, which grow by 1–1.5 m annually.

Garden pitch will help to avoid the risk of contamination of the tree with any diseases.

Garden var can be purchased at a specialty store or you can cook it yourself. To do this, mix 250 g of solid oil, 200 g of wax, 50 g of pine resin and heat in a water bath until a creamy mixture is obtained. Places of small cuts on annual shoots can be covered with brilliant green.

Cherry plum pruning - video

Preparing the plant for winter

The harsh conditions of the native land of cherry plum also imparted high frost resistance to the Lama variety. However, the cultivation of cherry plum in the northern regions of the country requires certain measures for the successful wintering of the tree.

Whitewash

For whitewashing cherry plum, you can use ready-made acrylic or water-based paints. They stay on the tree for a long time and are not washed away by rains. You can prepare the whitewashing solution yourself. For 2 liters of water you need:

• 500 g of lime;
• 200 g of sifted clean clay;
• 20–35 g of Karbofos or urea;
• 200 g of stationery glue (only for adult trees).

The resulting paint is enough to whitewash 3-5 trees. Whitewashing usually stays on the tree throughout the year.

It is necessary to whitewash trees in late autumn (in October - November) before snow falls, but it is possible even after the first frost. Re-whitewashing, if necessary (to protect the tree from pests wintering under the bark or in the surface layers of the soil), is carried out at the end of winter (in February - March) after the snow has melted.

Whitewashing will protect the tree from external negative factors

Shelter

If cherry plum grows on the northern side of the site, severe frost and winter winds can harm the tree. In these cases, the root system is insulated with improvised material (quilted jackets, old mattresses, spruce branches, reeds).

Rodent protection

In the steppe regions, where populations of rodents (mice, hares) are large, the trunk of the tree and the lower skeletal branches of the cherry plum are wrapped in burlap, tarpaulin or barbed wire. Rodents do not touch the whitewashed tree bark in late autumn, as it becomes bitter.

Solar splendor kerry

Among the ornamental shrubs, Japanese Kerria is considered a special, rare and exclusive star. She's not as popular as forsythia

Often, the plant is overlooked, thinking that such its splendor and showiness is a sign that the plant will have to provide difficult and tireless care. But kerria is one of the most unpretentious plants that can be recommended even to the most inexperienced gardeners.

The endurance and simplicity of this shrub can only compete with its decorative merits.

Japanese kerria (Kerria japonica) is oriental in origin, and in style too, an ornamental deciduous shrub from the Pink family. The specific name of kerria often leads to confusion, because the birthplace of this plant is actually not Japan, but China. The folk names of the plant are a vivid evidence of its extraordinary beauty of flowering. Easter or Japanese rose - this is how kerria is known all over the world, and it is especially loved in European landscape design.

The average height of kerrias is limited to 1.5-2 m (up to a maximum of 3 m kerrias grow both in nature and in free growing without forming in gardens), easily regulated by shaping and pruning. They are compact, deciduous shrubs with slender shoots. The shoots of kerria are green and straight, they initially form a rather strict pyramidal crown, but with age the shrub becomes more and more lush and curly, the shoots are inclined, the shape of the bush changes. One of the most valuable features of the Japanese kerriya is its strikingly elegant, not too thick, but seemingly curly crown.

This shrub seems fluffy and elegant at any time of the year, even in winter, impressing with its lace pattern and bright light green color of the shoots. Kerria shoots are thin, look amazingly graceful and only emphasize the beauty of the plant. All kerrias have medium-sized, but beautiful lanceolate leaves, the length of which ranges from 2 to 10 cm, and the width is up to 5 cm. The serrated edge of the leaves adorns the plant, as does their rich light green color in summer. The underside of the leaves is pubescent, the upper side is bare. The yellow spring and autumn flowering of kerria seems to be picked up by the crown: in the fall, the leaves of the plant are repainted in a bright yellow color, completing the yellow parade of the plant.

The flowering of Japanese kerrias starts in April, and in regions with severe winters - in May and continues in June, it is striking in its duration. With favorable weather and high temperatures, sufficient soil moisture, the shrubs bloom again in August or September. On average, the flowering period of kerrias lasts from 25 to 35 days, sometimes more than a month and a half. The duration of the flowering period directly depends on the weather and growing conditions. If the kerria is frozen over the winter, then the shrub blooms only by August-September.

Kerria flowers are single, outwardly strongly resemble buttercups with their rich yellow color, simple petals and a fluffy center of stamens. Flowers are located at the ends of shoots or in the axils of future leaves. The diameter of the flowers ranges from 3 to almost 5 cm in the best varieties. Along with simple forms, there are also terry varieties. By their smell, kerrias are most similar to dandelions.

After flowering, almost black prefabricated spherical drupes are tied, but only in regions with mild winters. In the middle lane, kerrias do not bear fruit.

Tree care

Caring for the Red Chief variety includes the entire set of standard agrotechnical measures. The yield depends on the correctness and timeliness of the implementation of the procedures described below.

Watering and mulching

During the entire spring-summer season, apple trees must receive the required amount of moisture. Watering is done as needed - the soil should not dry out, but the water in it should not stagnate either, moderate moisture is needed.

After watering, the soil must be loosened - around the trunk and over the entire area covered by the crown. During loosening, weed vegetation is removed - it absorbs nutrients destined for the tree. In addition, loosening ensures air circulation in the soil.

The soil is a trunk circle, mulched in the fall. This measure prevents the roots from freezing in winter. As mulch, materials are used that improve the structure of the soil, nourish it, protect it from erosion, leaching, freezing and drying out.

When choosing mulch, take into account the ability of the material to let air into the soil and release harmful compounds from it. For Red Chief mulch, it is best to use humus, but also work:

• sawdust;
• cut grass;
• fallen leaves;
• hay;
• organic compost.

Fertilizer

Fertilizers laid during planting last a long time for the seedling. Further feeding follows a simple scheme:

1. In the summer, in the first year of planting, nitrogen fertilizers are applied.
2. In the year of the first fruiting, potash-phosphorus fertilizers are applied.
3. During the first flowering, it is necessary to add superphosphate or urea.

All top dressing is applied to the trunk circle. Fruiting apple trees are fed 3-4 times a year:

1. At the end of April, urea is added (500-600 g) or humus is scattered around the tree (6 buckets).
2. During flowering, the tree is fed a second time. In hot weather, fertilizers are applied in liquid form. Superphosphate (1 kg), potassium sulfate (800 g), slurry (10 l) and liquid bird droppings (5 l) are dissolved in 200 l of water. Instead of manure and droppings, you can add urea (500 g). One tree - 40-50 liters of solution.Before feeding the tree is watered, then fertilized and watered again.

Fertilization rates taking into account the age of the fruit tree

Spraying and pest control

Most of all, the Red Chief variety suffers from:

• Scab. This is a fungal disease that affects literally all parts of the tree, including the fruit. The disease can completely destroy the crop. To combat scab, fungicides are used - Skor, Horus, Raek, Bordeaux liquid. Treatments with horsetail infusion and a solution of dry mustard are also useful.
• Spotting. Another fungal disease that affects the leaves of the apple tree. For prophylaxis, the tree is sprayed with Bordeaux liquid or copper oxychloride. Folk remedy - infusion of ash and garlic.
• Apple moth. The larvae of this pest eat away the pulp of the fruit, taking a good part of the harvest. A complex of agrotechnical measures and spraying with insecticides are used to combat.

For preventive purposes, it is recommended:

• remove plant residues in a timely manner;
• dig up the soil in the fall;
• thin out the crown, ensuring normal air circulation;
• plant apple trees on hills.

Spraying procedure:

1. The first treatment - before bud break, the trees are sprayed with insecticides.
2. After flowering - repeated spraying with insecticidal preparations. It is worth being late and most of the fruits will be affected by the moth.
3. The last treatment is during the pouring of the fruits, but no later than a month before harvesting.

Planting and leaving

Many people like to grow begonias at home precisely because, generously presenting beautiful flowers even in winter, it is unpretentious in care. The main thing is to initially plant it correctly, pick up the right soil, after you brought the plant from the store.

In garden markets, you can buy any soil, including for indoor plants, and even separately for begonias.

When choosing a plant in a store, you need to pay attention so that the plant looks healthy, the leaves are dry and intact. The pot should be chosen not deep, but of medium size, so that the plant does not spend energy on building up the root system, but more on foliage and flowers

Drainage holes must be made in the pot. Small stones are placed at the bottom, which will serve as drainage. Then a part of the soil is poured, the plant is placed, the roots are well straightened, and then the soil is poured

The pot should be chosen not deep, but of medium size, so that the plant does not spend energy on building up the root system, but more on foliage and flowers. Drainage holes must be made in the pot. Small stones are placed at the bottom, which will serve as drainage. Then a part of the soil is poured, the plant is placed, the roots are well straightened, and then the soil is poured.

Begonia is watered regularly, but not excessively. You just need to focus on the temperature in the house and the time of year. In winter, it is enough to water the plant once or twice a week, and in hot summer it can be every other day. The main thing is that the soil does not dry out.

Begonia loves the sun and will bloom in a well-lit room, but it is advisable to avoid direct sunlight. In winter, the sun may not be enough. Therefore, several hours a day of additional artificial lighting will be useful.

Begonia loves moisture, but it is recommended not to spray the plant, but to spray moisture in the air around it. In the summer, this can be done several times a day.

The plant can not be transplanted, in any case, it is definitely not worth doing it often. If only the plant is too large, and it is already cramped in the pot. This must be done carefully so as not to damage the roots. You need to prepare the pot, drainage, soil, and then carefully remove the begonia from the old container along with a lump of earth and transfer it to a new one, then add fresh soil, then water well.

If you want the bush to grow more luxuriantly, you can stimulate its growth by slightly cutting off the tips of some shoots, and soon the plant will give new shoots, on which flowers will then appear.

Cinquefoil - care

It is easy to take care of Potentilla and even beginner growers can do it. It is enough to provide the perennial with regular and moderate watering, fertilization, timely pruning and weeding from weeds under the bushes.

Watering Potentilla

Cinquefoil blooms profusely and grows actively in well-moistened soil, although it is considered a drought-resistant unpretentious crop. In a rainy summer, the plant may not need additional watering. And in a hot summer, he needs to ensure watering 2-3 times a week, preventing the soil from drying out. You can not use cold, ice water, so as not to harm the root system, it is better to water the bushes with warm, settled water. After watering, it is recommended to shallowly loosen the soil. In the evening, Potentilla can be sprayed. Young seedlings need special watering, they are often watered, spending up to 10 liters of warm water under one bush.

Feeding Potentilla

A flowering perennial responds well to top dressing. When planting a seedling, any mineral fertilizer or ash is added, and next spring the plant can be fed with the following fertilizers:

• During the period of active growth, in the spring, it is necessary to add 30-40 grams of potassium sulfate and phosphate to the soil, diluted in 10 liters of water, per plant.
• During the budding period, the soil is fertilized with phosphorus-potassium complex fertilizers, according to the instructions.

Pruning Potentilla

To maintain the attractive appearance of shrub Potentilla and its decorative effect, it is necessary to regularly prune the crown of the plant. Pruning is carried out in early spring, before the buds open or in autumn, by shortening the shoots by a third, giving the crown the necessary shape, as well as removing dry, broken, growing inward branches. Most often, the shrub is shaped like a ball or pillow. After rejuvenation, active growth of shoots begins, and abundant flowering is stimulated. In addition to pruning, the soil under the plant must be periodically loosened, especially after watering, and weeds must be removed.

Cinquefoil after flowering

In the fall, after flowering, when the plant loses its decorative effect, annual types of Potentilla are removed, and the area where it grew is dug up, adding fertilizers to the soil. After the completion of flowering of shrub Potentilla, the shoots are shortened by a third and the soil is watered with Bordeaux liquid as a preventive measure.

Cinquefoil in winter

Perennial herbaceous and shrub species of Potentilla do not need winter shelter, since the plant is hardy to winter frosts. Only cuttings and young seedlings that are planted in the fall need to be sheltered for the winter.

Goose cinquefoil (P. anserina)

A striking representative of the genus is the cinquefoil goose. It is a ground cover plant that is easy to find along fences, on country roadsides, in meadows and near waterways. Due to the ability to reproduce with a mustache, the culture received the nickname "caterpillar" among the people. Due to its unpretentiousness, it is worth the Potentilla to get into more or less favorable conditions, after a few years its recognizable feathery leaves and bright yellow flowers appear on the entire site.

The ornamental plant is widespread in Russia and is even used as an ornamental crop. Potentilla with yellow flowers and bright green foliage acquires particular value where, due to high air pollution, other species do not take root.

Emperor cylindrical Red Baron: planting and leaving

Imperata red is an unpretentious cereal that adapts well to the area. It is preferable to plant it in an open area of ​​the garden, where there is a large amount of ultraviolet rays.Given that the grass is native to warm countries, sunlight has a beneficial effect on its development. The soil is suitable for any composition, but preferably fertile, with an admixture of sand. This will enable the bushes to be more colorful, lush. Heavy soils must be diluted with sand, which will provide them with a lighter structure. The ground must be well-drained, breathable. The formation of a dense crust on the surface of the soil interferes with the normal metabolism in the flower, which significantly affects its decorative effect.

Often the decorative impera is planted in pots, decorating different areas of the garden with them.

The main care of the plant is regular, moderate watering. If desired, but not necessarily, in the spring, you can fertilize the soil with organic compounds, which will have a beneficial effect on the growth of the impera.

In late autumn, the stems of the plant are shortened by about 10-15 centimeters. The soil around the bush is mulched with sawdust or fallen leaves. A layer of mulch prevents dehydration of the soil, making the plant more comfortable overwintering. The winter hardiness of the imperial cylindrical Red Baron is strong enough, the culture does not require additional shelter.

The bush acquires the greatest decorative effect 4-5 years after planting. To renew old plantings, give them an impulse for growth, cleaning will help. For this, the old bush is dug up, cleaned of dead foliage, shoots. This manipulation enables the development of new growth, improves the decorative effect of the bush.

Plant propagation

The grass propagates in a vegetative, seed way. Given the rare flowering of the plant, collecting seeds at home is extremely burdensome. In nature, the seeds of an impera that have reached a mature state are self-seeded. The fluff contained on the seed gives it the opportunity, under the influence of the wind, to scatter over the adjacent territory. Self-seeded seeds take root quickly.

Photo of spikelet of Impera cereal with seeds

Seeds purchased in special stores are planted for seedlings in February-March. The container with the planting is covered with a film and regularly ventilated, the soil is moistened. After the emergence of shoots, the protective film is removed, and the planting is transferred to a lighter place. The grown seedlings are planted in separate containers, and after the onset of warm weather (end of April, May), they are planted in open ground.

A simpler option is grafting or dividing the bush. Having an adult bush of a plant on the site, it can be dug up in the spring and divided into several parts. For planting, dig a hole with a diameter twice as large as the rhizome. A drainage layer is laid on its bottom, a small amount of mineral fertilizers is poured. After planting the seedling, the soil around is tamped a little, covered with a layer of mulch. Such a seedling takes root very quickly, giving young growth. The main thing during the adaptation of the plant is to ensure regular watering.

Variety impera cylindrical Red Byron can be easily propagated using lateral shoots. They are separated from the mother bush, transplanted to a new place. It is also recommended to mulch the soil around.

Given that most plant varieties are aggressive conquerors of territories, their reproduction and growth must be controlled. Otherwise, they will interfere with other, nearby growing plants, to develop. To control the growth of plantings, you can carry out periodic cleaning, weeding out unnecessary plantings. It is also allowed to plant a plant in a pot, which is dug into the territory of the flower bed. Then the growth of the rhizome will be strictly limited to the limits of the container.

Diseases and pests

The herb is resistant to diseases and pests. The only thing that can hinder its growth is improper care. An excessively humid habitat, a close occurrence of groundwater and a swampy territory provoke decay of the rhizome.You can deal with this by normalizing the irrigation system or by replanting the plant to another place.

general description

The tree can reach 4-7 m

The height of the nectarine tree can reach 4-7 m. The crown is 3-4 m in diameter. Flowering begins earlier than leaves appear. The shape of the fruit is spherical. They have a dense structure with a lint-free surface.

Harvesting occurs in the summer or early fall season. This takes about 3-5 months. The foliage is characterized by a large, oblong shape with teeth along the edge, and a green color. The bloom is white or pink. It is accompanied by a good fragrance.

The ripe crop can be covered in the following colors:

• Red;
• yellow;
• Orange;
• burgundy.

One-color coloring or a combination of several shades at the same time is possible.

The peach hybrid is grown:

• Greece;
• Tunisia;
• Italy;
• Cyprus;
• Moldova;
• Russia (Volgograd region).

"Bald Peach"

This representative has good frost resistance (an adult plant is able to withstand a drop in temperature to -32C, but cold snap at -2C is terrible for flower buds and is fraught with death), endurance to diseases, pests.

The fruit is juicy inside. Has the following flavoring features:

• sweet;
• pleasant bitterness;
• almond flavor.

The plant does not live long. The maximum life span is up to 20 years, and if conditions are unfavorable, then no more than 10 years.

Nectarine is distinguished not only by its special taste, beautiful appearance of the fruit, but also by a decent number of healing properties, which have the following effect on the human body:

• support for the work of the heart;
• strengthening the immune system;
• withdrawal of substances that harm the body;
• a decrease in the degree of sugar in the blood;
• an increase in hemoglobin indicators.

Nectarine

The best way to use the fruit is to eat it unprocessed. Thus, the greatest usefulness is preserved in it. But it is also suitable for drying, stewing, baking, preserves, juices, compotes, jam.

The culture is related to the following fruit representatives:

• peach;
• almond;
• plum;
• quince;
• Apple tree;
• pear;
• apricot;
• irga;
• cherry plum;
• hawthorn;
• Rowan;
• chokeberry;
• cotoneaster;
• rose hip;
• medlar.

Growing, creating favorable conditions for nectarine species is a bit like breeding a peach.

Essential oils are produced from nectarine nucleoli during processing. They are often used in cosmetology.

Cherry plum: description of 23 best varieties with gardeners' reviews | (Photo & Video)

Care and cultivation

Growing dahlia "Figaro" is carried out by means of seeds. When planting a plant, you need to choose an area that will be well lit, so give preference to the sunny side of your garden or vegetable garden. The soil in which you will place the seeds should be fairly loose, and its acidity should be neutral. If the earth is of a slightly acidic nature, then a small amount of dolomite flour must be added to it.

In addition, you should take seriously the preparatory phase that precedes the direct disembarkation. So, take care of the site since the fall - this way, in the spring (when the time comes to plant the dahlia) it will be easy enough for you to dig up and loosen the soil.

In order to grow seedlings from seeds, you need to choose the right container, in the bottom of which you need to drill or puncture small holes - they will be useful for removing excess liquid, and will also provide oxygen access to the root system. It is recommended to use a combination of peat, perlite and river sand as a soil mixture (the required proportions are 1: 1: 1).

The optimal period for planting a dahlia is March or April. After emergence, the seedlings should be placed in a warm place with plenty of light. As for the care measures, then, as mentioned above, dahlias do not need careful comprehensive care. It is enough to observe the regular watering regime, as well as provide good lighting.During the germination period and in the absence of natural light, it is necessary to organize natural lighting in the form of special lamps or LED strips.

In addition, in order to accelerate growth and enhance development, you can add various top dressing and fertilizers to the soil where Figaro grows. Blended supplements are a good option, however, avoid formulations that are high in nitrogen. When planting a plant in the ground, transplant the flower along with a lump of earth - in this way you will protect the young root system from various kinds of damage. You can also pour some ash and humus into the holes. Do not forget to carry out the weeding procedure by removing the weeds.

You can learn more about caring for dahlias in the next video.