Coreopsis long-term planting and care in the open field

Planting and leaving

Growing whorled coreopsis is a simple matter. First of all, you need to decide on the place. "Sunny" flowers prefer open areas. However, some species are planted near tall trees, since a little shade will still not harm them. Planting the plant is carried out directly in the open ground or using the seedling method.

The perennial is not afraid of low temperatures, so the seeds are lowered into the soil in early spring or autumn. A plant planted in this way will bloom only after a year, so it is advisable to use seedlings. Thus, with the onset of heat, seeds are laid out in a container with fertile soil. Then they are covered with a mixture of sand and earth and watered with water. To create a greenhouse environment, the boxes are covered with plastic wrap.

The plant is grown in a dry, light place. The temperature should not be lower than 15 degrees Celsius. The soil is periodically moistened with a spray bottle. As soon as the first shoots appear, the film is removed. After 2 weeks, picking of seedlings is carried out. As soon as the plant reaches a height of 10-12 cm, then it is placed in special containers. The next stage is planting seedlings in a permanent "habitat".

Coreopsis whorled is a rather unpretentious plant. However, some control over it is still necessary. A captivating perennial needs regular watering, feeding and pest control. In the sultry summer, perennials are watered 1-2 times a week. Fertilizers are applied during the growing season and after pruning (in the fall). In addition, the soil needs regular loosening, and also do not forget about removing weeds.

As for wintering, with the arrival of cold weather, the bush is shortened (1/4). In the northern regions, coreopsis is completely excavated from open ground and planted in special containers.

Acquaintance with the view

Coreopsis dyeing is an annual from the numerous genus Coreopsis. A representative of the flora of the American continent, an indigenous inhabitant of Canada, the USA, the north of Brazil. Often it develops roadsides, plain meadows, the outskirts of fields and wastelands. Here he is often called Calliopsis.

Among domestic gardeners, it is known under the names Parisian Beauty, Lenok, Yellow Chamomile, Maiden's Eyes. It grows on different types of soils, it manifests itself better on dry light sandy soils, flavored with humus. Drought-resistant. It grows and blooms more abundantly in sunny areas. It tolerates partial shading, but the flowers become smaller, they are slightly smaller.

Bright flowers are located singly or in two or three, each on its own thin peduncle... There is no aroma. The inflorescence is a three to five centimeter basket. Consists of reed petals arranged in one row, with denticles and a yellow stripe along the outer edge. The central spot is dark, the size depends on the variety, the color of the middle is dark - red, burgundy, brown-red.

The seed capsule is flattened, the shape resembles an insect - a bug. It was she who gave the name to the plant: "coreopsis" from Greek - "bug-like". Many small seeds ripen in the box.

Garden varieties are grown from seed, usually through seedlings. It also reproduces by "self-seeding". In such cases, it rises before winter, forming low rosettes, or in early spring. The green mass is growing rapidly. Blooms from late June until frost.

Planting perennial coreopsis

Coreopsis prefer sunny flower beds, although some plants tolerate partial shade. The soil should be loose, breathable, moderately fertilized and sufficiently moist. There are several ways of planting perennial coreopsis. However, it is better to grow a new variety for yourself from seeds.

Growing seedlings from seeds

Seeds are harvested on their own, or you can buy in garden stores

But, it is important to remember that self-collection of seeds of hybrids with double flowers is undesirable, since plants can be reborn.

1. For planting seeds, boxes are prepared and filled with soil mixture.
   Take ready-made universal soil or garden soil with the addition of sand.
2. Seedlings are sown in late March - early April.
   
3. Seeds are embedded in moist soil to a depth of 1 cm.
   Further, the boxes are removed in a bright, warm place and watered regularly.
4. After the appearance of 3 true leaves, the seedlings are transplanted into separate containers.
   This step can be avoided by immediately sowing coreopsis with a distance of 10-15 cm between plants. But we must remember that the germination rate of seeds is rarely 100%, especially those collected independently.
5. Perennial coreopsis seeds can be stored for up to three years
   , during this period they do not lose their germination.

Learn more about planting seeds for seedlings from the video:

Landing in open ground

Seed planting rules:

1. Seeds are sown in open ground in late April - early May.
2. Previously, the soil is loosened well, a little sand and humus are added.
3. Seeds are planted to a depth of 1 cm and watered abundantly.
4. To protect against frost and maintain constant moisture, the crops are covered with a film or garden non-woven material.
5. Seedlings are planted in open ground in mid-May, when the threat of return frosts has passed.

With this method, flowering occurs in the second year of cultivation.

The soil needs to be loosened and humus or peat added. Dwarf and undersized perennial coreopsis are planted according to a scheme of 20 cm between plants and 30 cm for honey in rows. For tall varieties, use the 30x40 cm scheme.

Varieties

Of the wide range of available species at home and garden cultivation, about thirty are most in demand. Almost all coreopsis are perennial, with the exception of a few. In the generalized description of plants, the advantage of the yellow color of the inflorescences can be distinguished, but there are pink, red, with a brown tint. Most have pinnately dissected petals, forming double or simple inflorescences-baskets. The height of the branching stems varies from 20 to 115 cm.

Varieties often found in garden decoration:

• The golden ball is a spectacular decorative cultivar, with rounded double inflorescences of a golden color. The height of the stem reaches 50 cm. It blooms in July, retaining its beauty until late autumn.
• Ruby Red is a meter tall whorled representative with crimson baskets. Leaves are light green, needle-like, overly elongated. Frost-resistant, photophilous, lives for a long time without transplanting.
• The Golden Baby is a compact frost-resistant plant that blooms profusely from mid-July to September. The height of the leafy bushes is 40 cm. The flower heads are double, golden yellow, 3-4 cm in diameter.
• Thuringia is a large-flowered perennial of the dwarf type (20–25 cm). The flowers are double, spherical, from many plumose petals.
• Moonbeam is a meter long perennial coreopsis with sessile narrow leaves. It blooms with many white-yellow inflorescences with radiant petals.
• Earley Sunrise (Early Sunrise) is a compact perennial 60 cm high. The inflorescences are semi-double, golden yellow, 5–6 cm in diameter. Blooms all summer.
• Roulette - has flowers of a deep red color with longitudinal yellow stripes.
• Golden Severin - bushes with an abundant deciduous component, undersized, no more than 20 cm in height. It blooms with large orange inflorescences.
• Crimson King - approximately stretches up to 30-40 cm in height. Inflorescences of an unusual rich carmine color with a brown tint.
• Red Tiger is a dwarf species, up to 20 cm in height. The petals in the form of rays are collected in dense rosettes of yellow-red colors.
• Gold Teppih - yellow inflorescences with a bright red center.Blooms longer than usual for perennial coreopsis. The bushes are medium-sized, about 40 cm.
• Karmesin Keningin - up to 35 cm tall, with flowers of a dark color palette (red and brown).

The most popular varieties of coreopsis are presented in the table:

Reproduction

Reproduction of this plant is carried out in three ways: by seeds, cuttings and dividing the bush.

Seed method

Seeds are harvested from ripe dry inflorescences. In April, they are sown on the surface of the soil without deepening, the earth is moistened. Cover with foil or glass to create a greenhouse effect and wait two weeks before seedlings emerge.

When it pulls up and gets stronger, it can be dived for the first time into containers at a distance of 2-3 cm from each other. After the shoots grow up to 10 cm, plant them in separate pots.

During this period, pay attention to watering. To avoid infestation of the root with a black leg, it should be moderate and only in dry ground.

Seedlings with pots must be periodically taken outside for hardening. When the seedlings get stronger, around May, they can be planted in a permanent place at intervals between bushes 50-60 cm.

Dividing the bush

This method is recommended for use in spring or autumn. Look for a shrub over 3 years old. Dig out the root and divide it into the required number of pieces. Place each part in the prepared hole and pour. Plant bloom in the first year.

Cuttings

For this method, it is necessary to take healthy shoots in the summer, cut them to 10-12 cm so that 2-4 buds remain on each. Then plant these cuttings in a pot, cover with a jar and water. They need to be kept in a dark place until roots appear and new leaves form.

Matricaria-cultivation, reproduction, care

Welcome friends on the site advice to gardeners. The cultivated plant matricaria, which bears a huge number of other names, is pyrethrum, popovnik, maiden chrysanthemum and tanacetum, belongs to the Asteraceae family, Compositae.

Feverfew is translated from Greek as fever or intense fever, and since ancient times, it has been used by the people for its intended purpose in medicine - most often it was the most effective means of helping pregnant women in childbirth - where was another name for uterine herb.

Matricaria

The culture is quite common in areas of North Africa, the Middle East and Southern Europe. Matricaria is exceptional - it belongs to perennial crops, but very often it is grown as an annual.

It is a densely branched, spherical plant, the height of which reaches thirty centimeters. By the way, there are also varieties that are more than half a meter in height, and there are also undersized ones - only ten centimeters, or, more simply, dwarfs.

At the very bottom of the location of the shoots, cute, feathery, dissected leaves with rounded ends are collected in a rosette. On rather long peduncles, at the top, there are inflorescences, the diameter of which is up to three centimeters.

Usually, Matricaria flowers are found in cream, yellow and white, typical crotch and double. Of course, terry varieties look more spectacular. The culture begins to bloom in early June and it lasts until late autumn, right up to the first frost.

Cultivation and reproduction of matrix

In general, growing matricaria does not pose any particular difficulties. This culture, at a young age, is relatively resistant to light frosts, and adult plants are able to withstand temperatures below freezing up to four degrees.

They can be in partial shade, but still, they develop better in a lighter place. The plant does not have too great requirements for the composition of the soil, but it will be better for it if the soil is calcareous. Matricaria normally tolerates drought, but waterlogging does not.

Growing matricaria from seeds should start in March if you want to get seedlings. The seedlings are dived into special boxes or florists, and then the grown ones are planted outside, in the open ground.

This is done at the end of May, after the weather has stabilized and the threat of frost has passed. The planting of the matrix is ​​carried out at a distance of twenty-five centimeters from each other.

V if sowing is carried out directly into open ground - you need to sow in early May. You will see the first shoots, perhaps even after ten days, and after three months, after the sowing day, you will admire the first flowering.

Another easy way to propagate matricaria is by grafting or dividing the bush. With the latter, a culture with an earthen clod should be transplanted, it is possible even during the flowering period.

Care and feeding of the matrix

When the weather is dry, it is advisable to water the plant, and before the expected flowering period, a complex of mineral fertilizers should be applied, periodically it is necessary to loosen the soil around.

Matricaria responds very well to feeding, responding to the owners with generous flowering. It is imperative to tear off the faded buds - this way its decorative appearance will be preserved and the flowering period will last.

In late autumn, you need to carefully examine the stems, remove those that have broken, dried, and on which the buds have faded. A little preparation should be done for winter - mulch the soil around the plant. You can cover it with spruce branches just in case.

An important advantage of the cultivated plant matricaria is that, in addition to its therapeutic effect on people, it is also capable of improving the soil.

She feels great in a shady place where trees and all kinds of shrubs grow, thereby scaring away various pests from them. An infusion made from a plant can rid the garden of caterpillars and sawflies.

This solution is prepared very simply - the buds and leaves from two medium bushes are poured into a bucket of water for a day, and then, after filtering, it should be diluted with water one to one and spray the necessary plants. To make the liquid stick better, add a little laundry soap to it.

Matricaria flower is used in groups with other plants, in the design of borders, lawns, rabatok and on the balcony.

Diseases and pests

This plant is distinguished by strong immunity and is rarely exposed to various diseases and pests. However, it is impossible to give a 100% guarantee that there will be no problems with infection and insect pests.So, for example, with insufficient watering and improper care, diseases such as fusarium and leaf rust can appear. The gardener will need to tear off the damaged leaves, and then spray the plants with fungicides. In the event that the spraying did not give any results, you should dig up the plants, disinfect the soil with potassium permanganate and plant new flowers.

Of insects, the following pests can cause certain difficulties:

• Leaf beetles.
• Aphid.
• Ants.

Large beetles and other insects can be removed by hand, and appropriate fungicides or folk remedies are used to control aphids. Problems with insect pests can be prevented by proper planting care, as well as regular thinning and removal of weeds, which are an intermediate carrier of pests and various infectious diseases.

Description

Coreopsis culture can be either a perennial or an annual root plant. Its shoots are branched and thin, therefore, they outwardly resemble an openwork and airy shrub, which reaches a height of forty to ninety centimeters.

Depending on the variety, the plant has finger-like leaf plates. bright greenwhich are usually either tapered or pointed. It forms at the very base of the stem, growing together with its lower part.

The culture begins to bloom in early summer and continues to delight the eye until the onset of frost. The flowering is quite dense and has bright colors. It can be yellow or reddish-brown, as well as pink or crimson flowers that have an ordinary or double shape.

As a rule, the bud consists of eight petals, the edges of which are jagged. When unfolded, it reaches a diameter of three to six centimeters. The middle of the bud is lush and has richer and more vibrant hues.

Coreopsis is a Greek name, and its translation is "bug-like". This is due to its fruits, which are formed after pollination of the plant, and have a flattened shape. Inside the capsule are small and round seeds. They are so small that there are about five hundred of them in one gram.

Coreopsis and its types

About fifty species belong to the genus of culture, and they can be divided into perennials and annuals.

Annual coreopsis:

• The dyestuff is a plant with a thin branching stem, at the end of which there are flowers with a bright yellow color, and its core has a burgundy color. The flower itself is endowed with wavy petals, which, when opened, have a diameter of three to five centimeters. This variety of coreopsis grows up to one meter in height and pleases with its flowering from mid-summer until October.
• Drummond - is a low shrub, the maximum growth of which reaches sixty centimeters. In July, the bush begins to bloom with large bright yellow flowers, the middle of which is painted in terracotta color.

Perennial types of coreopsis are more diverse:

• Whorled coreopsis has straight, highly branched stems, which are endowed with bright green leaves, similar to spruce needle branches. This type of leaf is commonly referred to as carved. In the middle of summer, the tops of the plant are covered with flowering. The buds have narrow, radiant petals, and in the center there is a fluffy core of a yellow hue. When opened, the bud reaches three centimeters in diameter.
• Large-flowered. This type of culture is distinguished by its spherical structure of the bush, reaching a height of one meter. Its leaf plate is solid and linear, with a dark green tint. In the middle of summer, the bush begins to bloom. Its buds bloom up to eight centimeters in diameter and have either an ordinary or double structure.The edges of their petals are covered with small teeth and have a bright yellow color, but the core of its yellow color is several tones darker.
• Coreopsis variety "golden baby" grows to a height of forty centimeters and its stems form dense bushes, the tops of which are decorated with bright yellow flowers of a double structure. The bud has an orange center, which can be seen already in the middle of summer. This crop variety is quite popular and pleases with its flowering for three months.
• Pink coreopsis. Its carved leaf plates, in the form of needles, form an openwork shrub no more than forty centimeters high in bright green color. During the flowering period, from July to August, the shrub is decorated with light pink buds, which have a simple structure and an open size of no more than two centimeters in diameter.

Use in landscape design

Unpretentious care, attractive appearance and the possibility of easy reproduction of plants invariably affected their demand in landscape design. In flower beds, coreopsis can be planted along with lilies, roses and rudbeckia. Such a flower garden will turn the garden into a real fragrant paradise.

Together with other shrubs and perennial flowers, coreopsis can be planted around the perimeter of the lawn, which makes it possible to visually separate the landscape zones from each other. With the help of this plant, small-sized flower beds are made between sidewalks and paths.

The tall-stemmed varieties look great in the company of annual flowers. Such tall varieties of coreopsis are best planted in the background and placed in group plantings. You can pick up such plants that will bloom throughout the warm season, which will help maintain the flower garden in a decorative state.

Coreopsis is a perennial flower that is unpretentious to care for, which will be an excellent choice for those gardeners who do not bother with long and difficult care of their ornamental plants. In terms of its brightness and beauty, perennial coreopsis is not inferior to exotic flowers, while it does not require any special attention, is easy to care for, which makes it popular with domestic gardeners.

Agricultural technology and cultivation features

Experienced and novice florists note the unpretentiousness of coreopsis. The limiting (determining) factor is one - good illumination. To accelerate flowering, annual coreopsis is grown in seedlings. Small seeds are sown in March or early April. Sowing is shallow, without embedding.

The container is covered with glass, foil or transparent plastic. Periodically, the greenhouse is ventilated. The grown seedlings are thinned out, leaving 25-30 mm between them, or they dive first according to the 2x2 cm scheme, the second time into separate pots. In May - June, after the end of night frosts, they are planted in the ground at a distance of at least 30 - 40 cm from each other.

Direct sowing of seeds in open ground is carried out in late April - early May. Seedlings and then seedlings are also thinned out. If seed pods remain on the plant and ripen, it can spread by self-sowing. In this case, the seedlings are looked after in the same way as in the case of direct sowing.

Planting in the ground and watering

Choose an open, sunny place or an area where there is a light shade in the afternoon, when the summer air is hottest. Sandy loam, loose dry soils are preferred. It perfectly develops depleted soils, on heavy and fertile soils it sharply reduces flowering. Low-growing varieties are used in border plantings, to decorate terraces and balconies.

Top dressing, diseases and pests

Top dressing begins two weeks after planting in open ground, when the bush takes root. Water solutions of complex mineral fertilizers are used. Make small portions, and only on poor soils. An overabundance leads to a reduction in flowering and an active build-up of greenery. In this case, flowering cannot be restored.

Video about planting and growing coreopsis:

Coreopsis is susceptible to leaf rust, viral, bacterial or fungal infections. If a disease is detected, as indicated by darkening of the leaves or the appearance of spots, the affected parts are immediately removed. they treat the diseased plant with a fungicide, and everything that is in the flower garden, in order to prevent the spread of infection.

If rust has covered the entire bush and reached the top, a copy will have to be sacrificed and removed, otherwise the entire flower bed will die. More often than other insects, coreopsis attacks aphids. To combat it, as well as with caterpillars and larvae of beetles, chemical plant protection agents are used - insecticides.

Chemicals are used strictly according to the instructions, taking safety measures.
Good to know:

1. Cool, rainy early summer shifts flowering time.
2. Coreopsis blooms longer and more abundantly if wilted inflorescences are periodically removed.
3. Tall bushes need to be loosely tied to a support so that the wind does not break the plant.
4. Flowers are suitable for bouquets, they are stored for a long time in cut.
5. In flower beds, it is combined with zinnia, gailardia, rudbeckia. Good in compositions with tall flowers with spike-shaped long inflorescences. Suitable for creating solo color accents.