Types of indoor flower aglaonema with photo
The following types of aglaonema are distinguished:
Low-growing:
Ribbed aglaonema
Ribbed Aglaonema has dark leaves. It looks like a heart. The leaves are very close to each other. This type of aglaonema blooms for one month in winter, from mid-December to mid-January.
Aglaonema ribbed: photo
Aglaonema rounded
This type of aglaonema is decorative due to its leaves. They have pink stripes. There are few leaves on such a plant, but they are large.
Aglaonema round: photo
Medium-sized:
Aglaonema with medium leaf
This variety of aglaonema reaches 50 cm. Such a plant comes from the Philippines. This aglaonema resembles a shrub. Its trunk is twisting. Leaves are narrowed and elongated. Their length is about 30 cm. Such a specimen blooms. The flowers bloom light green. At the end of flowering, fruits of a bright red color are formed. It is not recommended to touch this plant, as it contains harmful minerals.
Aglaonema Maria
This species is shade-loving. It has dense, bright green foliage. Such a flower can grow well even indoors without sunlight.
Aglaonema Maria: photo
Aglaonema Silver Queen
This type of aglaonema differs from others in the color of its leaves. They are dominated by gray-blue color. The flower is light-loving, it grows 40 cm.
Aglaonema Silver Queen: photo
Aglaonema moderate (modest)
Also, the moderate aglaonema is also called modest. It grows up to 50 cm. The leaves are elongated, and slightly sharp at the ends. The leaves grow up to 20 cm long and up to 10 cm wide.
Aglaonema moderate: photo
Aglaonema Treiba
This type of aglaonema is unpretentious. The leaves reach 15 cm in length. They are light green in color, and in the middle they are slightly silvery.
Aglaonema Treiba: photos
Tall varieties:
Aglaonema tall
In tall aglaonema, the leaf size reaches 40 cm.This specimen is shade-loving. Curly Aglaonema is always green. Reaches a height of about one meter. Leaves are oval. The shiny aglaonema has oval-shaped leaves. Their length reaches 45 cm, and their width is about 20 cm. The leaves are dark green. Unlike all varieties, this plant specimen has white berries.
Aglaonema Silver Bay
This specimen grows up to 1 meter. The trunk rises straight and takes on a dark green color. The foliage is excessively dense, so the trunk is almost invisible. This type of flower is hardy to cold weather. From above, the leaves reach 30 cm and are slightly pointed. In the center, the leaf is gray. With age, the plant darkens, the younger it is, correspondingly lighter.
Aglaonema Silver Bay: photos
Aglaonema Stripes
This type of aglaonema is shade-loving, frost-resistant. The leaves are green with light stripes.
Aglaonema Stripes: photo
Aglaonema Friedman
This specimen grows up to 1.5 meters. The leaves are decorative and rather large. They have dark green dots. The edge of the foliage is wavy. There are gray specks in the middle of the leaf. The plant does not require much maintenance.
Aglaonema Friedman: photo
Aglaonema Pattaya Beauty
This variety has a very thin stem. The foliage is large, light gray, with a bright green edge. The older the plant, the more it darkens. The plant does not require special care and grows with sharp temperature fluctuations, with insufficient light and increased humidity. With age, the lower leaves of this variety fall off, and it resembles a palm tree.
Aglaonema Pattaya beauty: photos
Red varieties:
The size of this specimen is small. The leaves are red. This species is rare because take them out in Taiwan.
Aglaonema Crete
The leaves of this specimen are bright red, dark pink and green in color. Young plants often have bright red leaves. The petioles are very pale. The plant is light-loving.
Aglaonema Crete: photos
Almost all aglaonema varieties are unpretentious. The most important thing is to follow all the rules for caring for them, and then a healthy, beautiful plant will grow.
4 diseases and pests
Anthracnose, spots, root rot. Powdery mildew appears when the plants are kept cool and with insufficient air movement. The bush rots with excessive watering. At the first sign of damage, treat the stems and leaves with an antifungal agent. Abelia homemade does not bloom with a lack of light. A sharp change in temperature can provoke abundant leaf fall. When grown in alkaline soil, plants slow down their development and suffer from chlorosis.
Abelia pests are attacked by aphids, thrips, scale insects and spider mites, mealybugs.
Insects are pests
| Insect name | Signs of infection | Control measures |
| Mealybug or felt insect | The surface of the leaves and shoots is covered with fluffy, cotton-like white bloom. Plants are lagging behind | Folk remedies: spraying with soap and alcohol solution. Infusion of tobacco, garlic, cyclamen tubers, alcohol treatments, pharmaceutical tincture of calendula proved to be good. Chemicals: green soap solution, Actellik, Fitoverm. |
| Spider mite | Subtle spider webs on the leaves, yellowing and foliage falling off with extensive lesions. The surface of the sheet plates becomes dead and covered with small cracks. Plant development slows down. | Folk ways. Plants can be rinsed in the shower and left in the bathroom in a humid atmosphere for half an hour. Irradiation with an ultraviolet lamp every week for 2 minutes. Chemical preparations based on pyrethrum, sulfur powders, Fitoverm, Actellik. |
| Aphid | Sticky droplets appear on the leaf plates, the leaf plates curl and deform, delicate buds and young leaves wither. Insect colonies can be seen on the tops of the shoots, buds or the underside of the leaf plates. The flowers of aphid-infested plants may become deformed. | Folk methods: infusion of nettle, decoction of rhubarb leaves, wormwood, soap solution, infusion of tobacco and dandelion, onions, marigolds, yarrow, tansy, dusting with dry ash. Chemical preparations: Sulfur powders, green mass treatment with green potash soap without getting into the ground, Decis, Aktellik, Fitoverm. |
| Thrips | The appearance of yellow spots on the leaf blades, small brown dots can be observed on the underside of the leaves. When spread, the pests cause the leaves to turn yellow, dry and fall off. | Folk ways. Increase the humidity of the air, wipe the surface of the leaves with soapy water to reduce the number of pests. Preparations based on pyrethrum - 2-fold treatment with an interval of 7 - 10 days, spraying with tobacco infusion, infusion of yarrow or Persian chamomile, decoction of cyclamen tubers. Chemical preparations: dusting with sulfur powders, the use of anabazine - sulfate in a soapy solution. |
| Shield and false shield | Sticky droplets on the leaves, small yellow spots on the surface of the leaf plates. With a large spread of scale insects, they contribute to the drying and falling of leaves. Flowers slow down their development | Folk methods of struggle. Spraying with soap and alcohol solution. Scabbard larvae do not like garlic infusion; they also use pyrethrum-based products. Chemicals. Fitoverm, Aktellik, Fufanon. |
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Shield
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Aphid
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Spider mite
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Thrips
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Mealybug
Undivided
This species originated from New Zealand. Plants grow up to 10-12 m in height.They have a thin, but strong, stiff stem that does not split into branches. Leaves are belt-shaped, elongated (70-150 cm), pointed, dull green, the bottom is gray, in the middle a red vein stands out clearly.
The inflorescence is dense, branched, sloping downward, with many white or reddish flowers.
Undivided cordilina - not picky about care, can be indoors for a long time. In the warm period, like other species, it is advisable to leave it in the fresh air. In winter - cool, spacious rooms with a temperature of 3-5 ° C.
Grows in the subtropics of Eastern Australia, often in forests and thickets of bushes. The trunk is thin, unbranched, 1.5-3 m in height. Leaves are oblong-lanceolate, pointed, 30-60 cm long, leathery, bright green on both sides, adjoining tightly.
The width of the leaf in the center is 1.8-3 cm, narrowing to the handle to 0.6-1.3 cm. Inflorescence is a panicle, purple flowers (0.6-0.9 cm long), are attached with a small pedicel.
Cordilina straight prefers to be outdoors in summer, in cold rooms in winter (5-7 ° C).
Basically, cordilins are undemanding, colorful plants, well suited both for keeping at home and for landscaping office premises.
Read also: Review of the egg incubator "IPH 12"
Home care
Features of care after purchase
Like many plants, cordilina does not like frequent changes.
Therefore, it is very important to choose the right place for the false palm, protected from drafts, temperature fluctuations, excessive sun and excessive moisture.
Lighting
Cordilina false palm prefers partial shade or diffused light
But here it is important to find a "golden mean", because with insufficient lighting, the plant loses its decorative effect, but the direct rays of the sun have a negative effect on its appearance
Therefore, the ideal option seems to be with western or eastern windows. If sufficient natural light cannot be provided, an artificial light source will save the situation.
Temperature
Cordilina straight loves coolness, so it is often planted in the open ground of a summer cottage for the summer. At the same time, it is better to protect it from the wind - it is not to the palms' taste. In room conditions, she prefers a moderate temperature without drops and drafts.
Air humidity
The false palm loves high humidity. Therefore, she will be grateful for daily spraying with cool water. She will also like it if the pot with her is sometimes placed on wet pebbles.
Watering
Cordilina straight has no dormant period, so it needs year-round watering with settled water.
In spring and summer, watering is necessary twice a week, in winter - once every seven days.
Excess water from the pallet must be removed from the pallet in a timely manner so as not to provoke root rot.
However, the complete drying out of the earthen coma should also not be allowed.
Fertilizers
The most active growth of cordilina occurs from the beginning of April to the end of August. At this very time, it is best to feed her with fertilizers intended for indoor flowers.
They can be purchased at specialized stores. Loosening of the topsoil will also be beneficial - this procedure is carried out in spring and summer.
We recommend that you familiarize yourself with other interesting materials about cordilina, for example, how to care for cordilina kiwi at home.
Transfer
The transplant is carried out as the cordilina grows, when its root system no longer fits in the previous container. For a new pot, you need to prepare a mixture of coarse river sand, peat and deciduous humus.
The addition of charcoal will help prevent rot, and brick chips will give additional favorable friability to the ground.
Growing
Cordilina reproduces in several ways. This can be apical cuttings, when the apex is cut off and rooted in greenhouse conditions.Reproduction by air layers from the upper part of the "palm" is possible. Stem cuttings up to 7 cm long can also germinate, from which the leaves are removed and rooted in the ground.
The longest way is to grow from seeds: they are sown at the beginning of March in a mixture of equal parts of turf and sand, and seedlings appear within three months. Less often they resort to the method of dividing the rhizome.
Description of cordilina flower
In natural conditions, cordilins are mainly large trees, the height of some of them can reach 15-20 m. Solid, slightly branching, straight trunks are covered with petiolate leaves of a lanceolate, linear or xiphoid shape. Over time, old leaves fall off, exposing the trunk, and only a dense crown remains at its top, so that the plant begins to resemble a palm tree in appearance.
Cordilina flower in the photo
The color of the leaves of the cordilina is mainly green, there are also variegated varieties, in which the leaf plates can be red, pink or decorated with multi-colored spots and stripes.
Cordilina flowers look tubular, since they have a perianth fused into a tube at the base. They are white or pink, mostly bisexual, collected in brushes, which in turn form large, in some varieties up to 2 m long, paniculate inflorescences located in the leaf axils. They do not bloom at the same time, a separate cordilina flower remains open for 5-8 days, the lifespan of the entire inflorescence is up to 30 days. In nature, plants are pollinated by insects. The fruits ripen within 4-5 months, they are berries that dry out as they ripen, with a three-nested ovary, each nest of which contains 6-15 seeds.
One of the distinguishing features of the culture can be considered a creeping fleshy nodular rhizome, which forms many root shoots with young shoots. Such growth is easily separated from the mother plant and can be further used for reproduction. The structure of the rhizome with pineal swellings also determined the name of the genus, cordilina, derived from the word "cordylle", which translated from Greek means "bump, knot".
The botanical classification of the genus is rather complicated. At one time, he and a close genus of Dracaena were attributed to the agave family, then they were singled out as a separate family of Dracaenovs. According to modern concepts, both plants have been transferred to the large family of asparagus.
Cordilins have long been widely used in culture. In their homeland, New Zealand and Australia, young leaves are eaten, sugar is obtained from rhizomes, and some varieties are used in folk medicine. Finally, from the leaves, the dry mass of which contains up to 40% fiber, ropes are made, mats and rugs are woven, and even clothes are sewn. As for the rest of the world, and in particular our country, most species are grown in rooms and greenhouses as decorative deciduous tub crops. In indoor conditions, even large trees in nature have thin trunks reaching a height of up to 150 cm, grow slowly and, if provided with appropriate care, live a very long time. They are often shaped like false palms.
At home, cordilins are sometimes confused with representatives of a close genus, dracaena. Their main difference is a different number of seeds in fruits, cordilins can have up to 20 of them, dracaena always have one, but since both plants practically do not bloom in the rooms, such a sign has no practical significance. They are distinguished mainly by the appearance of the roots, straight, smooth, orange on the cut in dracaena and white, knotty in cordilins, in addition, the latter have petiolar leaves with a convex central and pinnately located lateral veins, while in dracaena the leaves are wrapped around trunks and are distinguished by parallel venation.
How to create conditions at home
General rules for caring for adenium at home in a pot for beginners can be described as follows:
moderate watering;
a lot of light;
loose soil;
backlighting in winter.
If you follow these instructions, the plant will feel good and will accumulate strength to bloom.
One of the important conditions for planting and caring for adenium at home is the quality of the soil. It must be breathable so that the roots get enough oxygen. pH neutral or slightly acidic.
Light
Lighting is a major factor in growth and photosynthesis. Since there is not enough foliage in indoor adenium, it must be maintained. The place on the windowsill should be the sunniest. The southeast window sill is suitable for this. It is not scary if direct sunlight falls on the plant.
If it is possible to put adenium outside, then you do not need to look for a shade under the trees - you can just put it in the sun (of course, having previously prepared it for the burning rays). 4 - 5 hours he should be in the sun every day.
In winter, when the shortest daylight hours by the standards of the middle lane, artificial lighting will preserve the buds and wait for flowering. During this period, the lamps must be turned on for at least 14 hours a day.
If there is not enough light and heat, there may be no flowering at all or there will be few buds. Sometimes, when changing location from lighter to more shaded, the succulent drops buds and flowers. It is not recommended to disturb him during the flowering period.
Temperature
The normal natural temperature for adenium in the natural environment is 42 degrees, so when it decreases, the plant may hibernate, especially if you simultaneously reduce watering and the degree of lighting.
In the apartment in the summer, when the heat reaches 35 degrees outside, the adenium will feel very good.
Those species that are adapted to bloom in summer retire in winter. At this time, it is imperative to reduce the room temperature to 16 degrees. Cold for a plant means restoration of strength and the formation of vegetative buds for flowering.
This is one of the reasons why adenium does not bloom - in winter, radiators work in apartments and the plant is not able to prepare for flowering as it happens in the wild.
Video: Growing adenium from seeds
Humidity and watering
One of the conditions for the survival of adenium in an apartment in the summer is high humidity at 80%. To control the amount of moisture in the air, it is recommended to purchase a hygrometer, as well as a household humidifier with an automatic regulation function.
The hotter it is in the room, the higher you need to set the humidity on the devices, otherwise the plant will slow down its growth.
Since the leaves and trunk of adenium cannot be sprayed, the humidity can be increased in the following ways:
- Place a wide container of water next to it for evaporation.
- Hang wet towels next to the plant.
- In winter, the radiators are also covered with towels moistened with water.
In winter, when the room is kept at a temperature of 16 degrees, humidification is not required. A succulent plant is able to overwinter in dry air. The danger is over-watering during wintering in the cold.
If there is no evaporation, water stagnates in the area of the roots, which can lead to their rotting. To work properly during the winter months, you must wait until the soil is completely dry. This is determined by the weight of the pot - it becomes lighter.
Carefully! You cannot spray adenium outdoors during the day. The water droplets that remain on the leaves act as magnifying glasses for the sun's rays, so multiple tissue burns can be caused
Succulents can only rain in the evening.
Top dressing
The succulent loves feeding and responds well to the introduction of complex mineral fertilizers, which include nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus and some trace elements. Cactus-like crops are believed to love calcium supplements. You can sometimes mix them with a tablespoon of wood ash, which is obtained from firewood - there is more potassium in leaf ash.
Mineral fertilizers are added during transplantation and during the period of active growth. If you choose the right mixture and provide the plant with a hot summer under the scorching rays, it will grow quickly.
