Florist tips: when and how to transplant lilies
For several centuries, beautiful and exquisite lilies have adorned gardens around the world. These flowers, quite unpretentious and easy to care for, are loved by many gardeners, most of whom are wondering: when and how to transplant lilies and how much is it necessary?
A few words about lilies
These plants are perennial, but in order for them to please with large and bright flowers every year, they must be transplanted and divided every three to four years. However, this rule does not apply to all varieties of lilies. So, Marchagon and American hybrids, growing rather slowly, are divided and planted every eight to ten years, but Asian and tubular, whose bulbs grow very quickly, can be replanted annually. Having dealt with the need to transplant, let's figure out when to transplant lilies in the garden.
Best transplant season
Like most perennials, lilies can be transplanted at any time of the year, with the exception of winter: both in spring and in late summer and early autumn. Spring transplanting is difficult because during the entire autumn-winter season, you need to save the bulbs dug out in the fall. You can store them by folding them in a box or bag, hiding them in a cellar or refrigerator, the temperature in which should be at least + 30C. When deciding when to replant irises and lilies, it is worth remembering about spring return frosts, and also not forgetting about the first autumn frosts.
For each region and gardener, the timing of dividing and planting lilies is different. They depend primarily on the climate in a particular area, as well as on the varieties and varieties of flowers planted in the garden or on the site. The best time to transplant lilies in the Moscow region and the Leningrad region is the end of summer or early autumn. But in the conditions of Siberia and central Russia, this procedure is recommended to be carried out in mid-August. This is due to the fact that at this time the bulbs are in a "dormant" state. Many experienced flower growers advise focusing on the flowering time of each plant. And start transplanting a month after flowering.
Can you transplant in the summer?
When and how to transplant lilies, each gardener decides for himself. But it also happens that in order to save the plant (or for some other reason), it becomes necessary to move the flowers to another place. In this case, it is best to transplant lilies without destroying the earthen lump, along with the bulbs in it. If the roots are not damaged, the plants quickly adapt and take root in a new place.
It is important at this time to provide flowers with sufficient moisture.
When to replant tubular and oriental hybrids?
When and how to replant oriental and tubular lilies? This question arises among many lovers of these beautiful plants, and it is caused by the fact that they fade rather late. A month after the end of flowering, in many regions there is already a significant cooling, frost on the soil is possible. In such conditions, lily bulbs may not take root and die. It should be remembered that if you transplant them into soil, the temperature of which is below 00C, the bulbs are overcooled, the development of the root system does not occur. Such a plant may not "wake up" in the spring, or it may be very late in flowering. If the area where you live is characterized by early frosts, then the transplant should be postponed to the spring.
How to properly prepare a footprint?
When deciding when and how to transplant lilies, you need to properly prepare the place for them.The depth of the planting hole can vary from 10 to 40 cm, depending on the soil and bulb size. On sandy soils, it is better to plant the bulbs deeper, but on mixed and loamy soils ten centimeters will be quite enough. Sand is poured into the hole, which will serve as drainage and prevent moisture from damaging the lily root system. Place the bulb on top and carefully spread the roots, trying not to damage them, and then cover it with soil. Having compacted the poured soil, you need to mulch the planting site with sawdust, tree bark or peat. After transplanting, the plant must be properly watered.
When planting lilies, it is necessary to take into account how powerful and tall the desired plant is. And based on this, determine the distance. So, between large specimens, a distance of 25-30 cm is maintained, and medium and low ones are placed every 10-15 cm.
Thus, the answer to the question of whether it is possible to transplant lilies in the fall will be an unequivocal "yes"
It is only important to take into account the species and varietal characteristics of the transferred plants and provide them with suitable conditions for growth and development.
.
Is it possible to plant a lily at home
Blooming lily decorates the house not only with the beauty of flowers and bright greenery, but also with a pleasant persistent aroma. More than 300 species of these flowers are known in the wild. Thanks to selection, the lily can be planted and bred at home, in a flowerpot. Lily is not picky about conditions and can grow in one pot for several years.
If you choose the right planting date and provide the most appropriate and timely care for the plant, then you can easily guess with flowering buds for any celebration.
Depending on the variety, the flower can grow up to one and a half meters.
Did you know?
Ancient Greek myths tell: “The severe goddess Hera, finding a little Hercules hidden from her, decided to breastfeed him. The baby, sensing an enemy in her, bit her. The milk that spilled at the same time spilled over into the sky. This is how the Milky Way appeared, and a few drops that fell to the ground became beautiful lilies. "
Care for gladioli in the fall, when to dig out gladioli | GREEN BLOG
What is the care of gladioli in the fall? In the timely digging of corms, their processing, in the correct organization of drying and storage conditions.
There is a general rule for determining the time when to dig out gladioli - 30–40 days after flowering, during this time a replacement corm and baby tuber should have time to form.
If you see dark spots on the leaves of gladioli, and this may be the case with prolonged damp weather, then you should start digging the plant even earlier, this will help to avoid the penetration of botrytis spores or gray rot into the corm.
It will not be superfluous to remind you that it is necessary to dig up gladioli in dry weather.
Processing of corms
So, the gladioli have been dug up, then the roots should be cut off and the stems of the plant should be cut to the base. The left stems evaporate moisture, taking it away from the corms, in addition, they can be a source of fungal infections and diseases. After that, it is necessary to clean the corms from the ground, it is good if it is possible to thoroughly rinse them in running water. This technique increases their moisture content, so the subsequent drying must be carried out especially carefully, this also applies to the case when, after digging, you wash the corms in a solution of potassium permanganate (0.5 g per liter of water).
Drying, preparation for storage
You should know that intensive, timely drying of gladioli corms ensures their good storage during the entire winter period. For this, the planting material is kept in a room with good ventilation at t˚25–30˚C for a week. The next stage of drying takes about a month already at t˚18–20˚C.
After that, using a blunt knife, you can carefully separate the mother from the replacing corm, then clean it by removing the upper contaminated scales.
Storing gladioli
Optimum storage conditions are dry room and t˚5–10˚C. During storage, it is imperative to check the corms, removing diseased ones. At a higher temperature and humidity, corms can "wake up" and begin to germinate, which is unacceptable, as this can lead to their death. In this case, they must be well dried for 2-3 days, then stored in a cooler room with low humidity.
SUBSCRIBE GREEN BLOG NEWSLETTER
.
Possible diseases of the eucharis flower
Owners of this species rarely complain about plant diseases. This is due to the plant's unpretentiousness to conditions and its endurance. Despite this, mistakes in care and a weakened immune system can become the reasons for the appearance of not only diseases, but also pests.
Fungal diseases, bulb rot
The most common fungal infections are red burns. This fungal disease manifests itself in the appearance of red spots on the leaves. For treatment, fungicides are used. The medicine is dissolved in a certain amount of water and the flower is completely immersed in this solution. After that, all damaged parts of the plant are cut off, sprinkling with crushed coal.
Bulb rot
Pests
Eucharis is attacked by parasites less often than other plants. Pests are dangerous, as they suck out the juices of the plant, which leads to a slowdown in growth, and with prolonged exposure to insects, the flower can die:
- The root system of the eucharis is susceptible to parasitism by the daffodil fly. This pest provokes bulb rot and death. The best control method is considered to be soaking the bulb in hot water for 4-5 hours.
-
Florists who do not provide the flower with a sufficient level of moisture are faced with the appearance of a scale insect. This parasite infects plants with low immunity.
-
Thrips, whiteflies, spider mites and mealybugs can also parasitize on eucharis. Thrips appear as white spots on the leaves, and scale insects are dark brown. Most often, chemical agents are used to combat - insecticides. For example, Actellik is effective to eliminate scale insects, Thrips is Fitoverm, while the plant is sprayed completely.
To combat the whitefly, the flower is placed in a cold place, and then treated with Aktellik. This remedy is also effective in the fight against spider mites. Before being treated with a chemical, the plant is cleaned from the cobweb.
According to folk recipes, the infusion of garlic will help remove the whitefly, and mechanical cleaning in the early stages will eliminate other pests. To do this, wipe the flower with warm water (preferably with soap), trying not to damage parts of the plant. As a preventive measure, it is recommended to maintain all the necessary conditions of temperature and humidity.
Reasons why eucharis does not bloom
Very often, flower growers are faced with the fact that eucharis does not bloom... Experts say that this is due to damage to the flower by diseases or pests. Such pests include - gray rot, scale insects, mealybugs, aphids, spider mites. Pests affect the root system and peduncle, which provokes the lack of flowering.
In order for the plant to bloom again, you need to make sure that it is not sick and there are no parasites on it.
Florists also know how to make eucharis bloom. To do this, the flower is placed in a dark, cool room, limiting watering to such an extent that the substrate has time to completely dry out. Fertilization of the flower during this period is canceled. Such conditions activate all the powers of the flower and direct them to active growth. And abundant flowering will not take long after returning to normal watering and temperatures.
Yellowing, rolling the leaves
Very often, yellowing of the leaves can be confused with the natural aging of the leaves. With aging, only the lower layer of leaves turns yellow and falls off. If all the leaves fall, then the reason for this may be violations of the conditions for keeping the flower. Most often this can be triggered by excessive watering, the action of drafts and low temperatures, overdrying of the substrate.
Recovery begins with a thorough examination of the rhizome of the flower. In case of decay of the bulb, the damaged areas are cut off, sprinkled with crushed coal and transplanted into a new container with fresh soil.
If the root system is not damaged, you just need to cut off the yellow leaves, and also stabilize the growing conditions.
Very often, inexperienced growers are faced with the problem of curling leaves around the edges. The reasons for this may be temperatures above 24-25 degrees, dry air in the room, the lack of constant spraying, as well as the location of the pot near hot batteries in winter.
Also, such a reaction of the plant can provoke the appearance of parasites, excessive fertilization, rotting of the root system, lack of minerals and watering. In order to cure a flower, it is necessary to determine the cause of the curling of the leaves and eliminate it. To prevent this problem, you must adhere to all recommendations for care.
It will also be interesting: Indoor jasmine - home care and types of flower?
How to care for plants in the ground?
We recommend that you familiarize yourself
All work with lily bulbs should be started in spring, at the beginning of the growing season, and finished during the budding period. When lilies are in bloom, they can be dug up and transplanted. Blooming lilies can be seen on the marketplaces in July, dug out of the ground and sold with the bulb. At this time, they can be transplanted into pots or soil. Such a transplant does not prevent the plant from developing correctly. After it fades and begins to form a new root tuber, it is not recommended to touch it.
The stems of lilies cannot be cut at the root. In this culture, like in all tuber-forming plants, they are used to accumulate nutrients, which, after flowering, completely pass into the root. If the stem is removed, the bulb will be defective. It may die in winter or split into scales and not bloom next year.
Faded buds should be cut off immediately after flowering so that a box does not form on them. Then the bulb starts to work for itself. She starts the process of outflow of nutrients from the leaves and stem to the root tuber. With a preserved flower stalk with a box, the bulb continues to work for seed formation and is completely depleted. She will not be able to winter.
The dried stem is not cut off, but cracked and left in this form until spring. A dried flower stalk will remind you that there is a lily in this place. A successfully overwintered bulb will release a dense sprout in the spring, which will appear near the hemp. Then it will not be needed, it can be completely removed.
If lilies are cut for a bouquet, then you need to choose a large inflorescence with 5 or more buds. In these flowers, the bulb has reached its maximum size and will be able to survive after cutting. The peduncle is cut 20 cm above the ground to leave some of the nutrients for the plant. After removing the buds, it will take at least 40 days to mature.
When cutting a peduncle with fewer buds, a small bulb does not have time to ripen and disappears in winter due to a lack of nutrients.
After the end of flowering, all varieties are left in the ground until autumn. They fall asleep, accumulate nutrients and begin to form a new bulb, which should bloom next year. If at this moment their development is disturbed, then the bulb will disappear. It will disintegrate into scales, from which a large number of children are formed. They will release buds only after a year.Therefore, the main rule for the gardener is to create all the conditions for the flower to ripen into a state of rest.
Caring for lilies after flowering is reduced to removing weeds. Loosening the soil is not recommended to avoid damaging the bulbs. During the period of accumulation of nutrients, flowers need watering and fertilizing with liquid fertilizers.
Many varieties of Asian lilies overwinter in the ground during mild, not too frosty winters. These flowers have enough cover of snow and fallen leaves. They reproduce well in one place and after a few years form large colonies that require transplantation.
Hybrids brought from America and tropical countries do not tolerate frost well and die during snowmelt, when day and night temperatures are very different from each other. These varieties must be dug up in the fall before the first frost and stored in suitable places.
Choosing a container for lilies
Before planting a lily, it is important to choose the right pot for it. First of all, you need to choose the right container for the flower.
This is especially true of bulbous varieties. They can reach up to 1.5 m in height. And the higher the adult plant is, the deeper the pot should be selected for it in advance. How often the lily will bloom will depend on this.
First of all, you need to choose the right container for the flower. This is especially true of bulbous varieties. They can reach up to 1.5 m in height. And the higher the adult plant is, the deeper the pot should be selected for it in advance. How often the lily blooms will depend on this.
If it is assumed that the height of the plant will be about 1.5 m, then a pot with a depth of about 40 cm is needed.
So the roots will be spacious enough in it, the lily itself will be stably fixed in the ground, which is very important in the first time after transplanting
It is also necessary to correctly determine the width of the pot. So, if you plan to grow one plant in one container, it is recommended to use a fairly narrow pot (about 20 cm in diameter). Otherwise, the plant will constantly release babies, thereby trying to fill the free space in the ground.
You can also make a very interesting arrangement of bulbous lilies by planting 3-4 plants in one pot.
At the same time, it is important to maintain a distance of about 5-7 cm between them. So the land will not be free for the growth of children, and in the end such a "bouquet" will look quite beautiful
Indeed, during the flowering period, lilies release several buds at once.
Lily Marlene: planting and care
Lily Marlene is capable of simultaneously releasing up to hundreds of pink buds on one stem. Another interesting feature of this variety is the complete absence of the pungent odor inherent in all liliaceae (Figure 8).
Like other lilies, this species is quite unpretentious in terms of growing conditions and care. In open ground conditions, it reproduces both bulbs and bulbs. Large bulbs are best suited for home growing. Autumn and winter plantings will give flowers in early spring, spring plantings in summer, and from bulbs planted in early autumn, you can get a beautiful flower in the middle of winter.
Figure 8. Lilies Marlene in the garden
So, to grow lilies at home, you need a flower pot, the diameter and depth of which correspond to the height of the plant. For example, with a lily height of about a meter, a container with a diameter of 35 cm and a depth of 30 cm is suitable.The bulbs are planted at intervals of 4 cm from each other, while maintaining a distance of 3 cm to the edge of the pot.If you want your indoor lily to bloom for a long time, plant 3-4 onions in one pot. Pre-planting material must be subjected to a stratification procedure, that is, a sharp change in temperature. For this purpose, the bulbs selected for planting are kept in the refrigerator at a temperature of +5 degrees for 15-20 days.Then they are soaked in a solution of potassium permanganate for 1-2 hours, then they are kept for 12 hours in a solution of a growth stimulator with the addition of a nutrient medium. Only then should the bulbs be planted in the soil.
The soil must also be prepared accordingly:
- To do this, drainage in the form of river pebbles or expanded clay is laid on the bottom of the pot, on top of the drainage - a layer of fertile soil 10 cm thick.
- The bulbs are laid out on top of the substrate with sprouts upwards and sprinkled with a small layer of earth.
- The planted bulbs must be watered with warm water and placed back in the refrigerator (cool room) for a month so that the plant can take root.
- With the appearance of sprouts, the pot with the plant is transferred to a bright room with a temperature of + 12 + 15 degrees.
- Starting from 1 month, it is advisable to harden the plant, taking it to fresh air, gradually increasing the period of stay outside from 30 minutes to 10 hours a day.
Lilies are light-loving plants, so it is better to keep pots with them on the western or eastern windows, while avoiding direct sunlight on the leaves. In case of a lack of natural light, fluorescent lamps are used to extend the daylight hours. Watering young plants is carried out with an interval of three days, as they grow and bloom, watering becomes more abundant and more frequent. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that there is no stagnation of water. On especially hot days, when the air is dry, it is recommended to spray the plants. Remember that regular watering involves loosening to ensure air flow to the roots.
Marlene lilies bloom 80 days after sprouting. This process can be accelerated by increasing the temperature in the room, arranging additional lighting and increasing watering, and slowing down by moving the plant to a cold place. In the third year after planting, the Marlene variety gives the most beautiful and strong inflorescences, and after 5-6 years of growth, the plant needs to be renewed.
As the buds bloom, they must be removed so as not to deplete the bulb. After the plant has completely bloomed, and the stems have turned yellow and dry, they begin the process of preparing for winter. To do this, watering is reduced to 1 time per week, while simultaneously making mineral dressings. Two weeks after the last leaf has dried, the bulbs are dug out, kept in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for half an hour, dried, placed in sawdust and sent to storage in a dark, cool place. It is extremely rare for the Marlene variety to have babies. In this case, it is better to plant them immediately in a separate pot.
Caring for indoor lilies during active growth and flowering
How to care for lilies in a pot at home? A lily planted correctly in a pot begins to develop intensively. At this time, she needs to provide good nutrition and access to moisture.
Top dressing is carried out regularly with an interval of 7-9 days with complexes of microelements. They can be alternated with organic fertilizers.
Before flowering, young plants are sprayed with cool water twice a month, diluting growth stimulants in it. This procedure facilitates the setting of flower buds and subsequent flowering.
It is very important to regularly loosen the soil in the container so that air access to the roots is continuous. You can loosen the top layer about 4-6 cm thick, no deeper, so as not to damage the root system
When the stems grow 9-12 cm in height, the house lily can be taken outside or on the balcony. But first it must be tempered, accustoming it gradually. It is recommended to start from 25-35 minutes, increasing the time spent by half an hour every day. If the night temperature drops below 12 °, you should not leave the flower outside in order not to prolong the period of budding.
The development of leaves and flowers will go faster if the ground parts are regularly sprayed with soft water from a spray bottle. This can be done every day by placing the plant in the shade.Otherwise, you can get leaf burns under the influence of aggressive rays of the sun. Water should not get on the opened inflorescences and buds, as it greatly reduces their lifespan.
If there are a lot of flowers, it is necessary to install a support to support the stems.
Planting and caring for home lilies in a pot
One bulb is enough to get a pot with a diameter of 16-18 cm; several lilies can be planted in a large container at once. If you place the bulb in a wide pots, instead of flowering, it will begin to actively develop the space, releasing many daughter bulbs. In addition, the pot must be tall.
Before planting, the bulbs must lie in the refrigerator at a temperature of 3-6 ° for at least 16-19 days.
Then they are treated with potassium permanganate for about 1.5-2 hours, keeping in a medium-pink solution. And at the last stage, the bulbs are immersed in a solution of growth stimulants, for example, Zircon, Succinic acid, Epin with the addition of trace elements.
At the same time, good soil is being prepared. It should be fertile and loose, you can buy ready-made for lilies or mix garden soil with compost, sand and humus.
For each liter of soil add 40-60 g of mineral fertilizers.
They contain magnesium, iron, nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. If desired, the soil is disinfected by thoroughly spilling it with fungicidal solutions and boiling water.
Drainage from pebbles is laid out on the bottom of the container, a layer of soil about 8-10 cm is filled up, bulbs are placed on it and covered with an earthen layer of about 17-19 cm.It is advisable to leave sides 6-8 cm high on top, so that you can fill up the soil as the how additional roots appear.
The lily pot should be placed in a cool, shaded area until shoots form. Then the container is rearranged to the light, providing a constant flow of clean cool air.
