Conifers in the apartment

Pests and diseases

Formed dwarfs, in contrast to varieties bred by selection, are distinguished by a rather weak immunity. This leads to the fact that plants can often get sick and suffer from pests. This makes growing them even more difficult.

Plants that are not typical of our latitudes are considered to be stronger. Their plus is that the natural pests they are used to are not found here, and the risk of getting a spoiled plant is reduced to a minimum. One of the most common parasites in our climate, which nevertheless affect dwarfs, are powdery and downy mildew. These are fungal diseases that are treated with fungicides. But it is worth noting that the use of chemicals is unacceptable for indoor plants. They have a detrimental effect not only on pests, but also on humans. Therefore, biological products such as phytosporin and its analogs are used for such purposes.

Dwarf fruit trees

Using bonsai, you can create entire landscapes in miniature

Beautiful view of bonsai with red foliage

At the same time, some types of dwarfs suffer more from other diseases. They can be provoked by an unsuccessful plant transplant. If the roots are damaged, the tree may even shed foliage or needles, and in some cases, completely wither and disappear.

Therefore, pay attention when soil renewal is required, and carefully remove the plant along with the soil from the container. The soil will stick around the roots in a dense mass, and you should not disassemble it

It is only necessary to cut off the outer layer of the soil with a sterile knife, place the plant back in the container, and fill the resulting voids with new fertile soil.

Dwarf sea buckthorn

Small bonsai with pink flowers in the nursery

Korean fir

This tree looks very much like Nordman's fir, but differs from it in a high level of winter hardiness - zone 4 (up to -35 degrees). In adulthood, Korean fir and Nordman fir differ significantly from each other in height (the first does not grow higher than 15 meters, and the second will eventually reach 60 meters) and the shape of the crown. But at a young age, the seedlings of these species can only be distinguished by professionals.

The Korean fir has the same flat, completely non-prickly dark green needles, which on the reverse side also have a silvery color and two longitudinal stomata. Considering the above, we can only hope for the conscientiousness of the sellers, who can correctly indicate the species of the “Christmas tree” on the label.

Korean fir is a very promising tree for the garden. In recent years, landscape designers have increasingly used it in their work, and amateur gardeners also cannot resist the beauty of this tree, which looks like a Christmas tree from a fairy tale.

In addition, the Korean fir tolerates partial shade well, and as an adult pleases with amazing erect cones, similar to candles.

The only nuance that is important to consider when planting this fir is the negative impact of gassed air on it, so it is better to place the “Christmas tree” in a suburban area

Korean fir (Abies koreana). F. D. Richards

Conifers in pots on the balcony and terrace - a list of varieties and varieties

The most popular conifers in pots for balconies and terraces are yew, juniper, mountain pine, thuja. However, there are many more varieties of conifers that are ideal for growing in pots. Below is a list of them.

Canadian hemlock '

‘Nana’ is a dwarf species up to 1m in height.

Yew berry

'Summergold' - needles are yellow, grows very slowly (up to 1m grows for 10 years), requires pruning, as it grows in width.

Medium yew

‘Wojtek’ is a narrow variety, columnar, frost-resistant.

'Hicksii' is a bushy variety, great for shaping.

Pea cypress

'Filifera Nana' is a miniature, frost-resistant variety.

Juniper chinese

'Blue Alps' - bushy cut, bluish needles.

'Kuriwao Gold' - young growths are bright green, which looks very colorful against the background of the dark green of old needles.

Juniper scaly

`Blue star '- dwarf, compact, grows by 3-5 cm per year.

Juniper horizontal

‘Golden Carpet’ - grows to approximately 15cm height. and 1.5 m wide., grows 10 cm per year.

‘Plumosa’ - needles turn brown-purple in winter.

Common juniper, or Veres

‘Depressa Aurea’ - grows up to 50 cm in height and about 1.5 m in width, it grows about 15 cm per year, young shoots, bright yellow, change color to yellow-brown with age.

'Anna Maria' - compact, almost ball-shaped cut.

'Compressa' - Slim, columnar cut.

'Suecica Nana' is a dwarf, columnar variety.

Juniper medium

‘Old Gold’ and ‘Gold Star’ are varieties with bushy cut and golden needles.

Juniper Cossack

‘Variegata’ - it grows about 8 cm per year, has numerous white-cream blotches.

‘Tamariscifolia’ - grows about 8 cm per year, in young plants the branches grow horizontally, fold with age, forming a dome-shaped bush.

Microbiota (Siberian) cross-pair - low, little demanding shrub, growing approx. 0.4m h. and 2m wide., it grows about 10cm per year.
Larch (European) falling

‘Pendula’, ‘Repens’ - creeping shoots (lying on the ground), therefore grafted at a height of 1.5-2m.

Bosnian pine

'Smidtii' is a very slow growing, dwarf variety with a globular cut.

Mountain pine - bushy cut, slow growing plant.

'Humpy' - bushy cut, 3-4cm annual growth.

'Pumilio' is a low, elongated shrub with slow growth.

‘Winter Gold’ is a miniature variety, the needles are light green in summer and golden yellow in winter.

Spinous pine - bushy cut, slow growing plant with an annual growth rate of approx. 10cm.
Weymouth pine (white oriental)

'Radiata' is a very slow growing variety. after 10 years it grows up to 80cm in height.

Spruce gray

'Conica' is a very slow growing cone-shaped cultivar.

'Laurin' - Slim, tapered cut.

Spruce black

'Nana' is a bushy variety, gray-green in color.

Blue spruce

‘Glauca Globosa’ - young plants have a spherical appearance, the older ones are small trees.

Norway spruce

‘Echiniformis’ - grows to about 60cm.

'Nidiformis' - nest-shaped.

'Little Gem' - ball cut, grows up to 50cm.

Arbor vitae

'Aurea Nana' - yellow needles, ovoid cut, growing slowly, about 6 cm per year, golden yellow color.

‘Justynka’ is a slow growing variety, about 8 cm per year, green in color.

Thuja western

‘Danica’, ‘Globosa’, ‘Hoseri’ are dwarf, globular varieties.

‘Teddy’ is a miniature variety with a round, dense cut.

'Smaragd' - tapered cut, needles turn brown for the winter.

'Holmstrup' is a columnar variety that turns brown in winter.

Which conifers grow fast and which slowly

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3 best types of conifers for the garden

Type 1: yew (yew, torreya)

Features of the view:

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yew - evergreens;
have dark green needles;
crown shape - ovoid-conical or pyramidal;
easily tolerate a haircut;
keep the given shape for a long time due to slow growth;
transplant well in adulthood.

Yews are smoke resistant, which allows them to be planted in cities. The root system is well developed, plants grow well both on loose and stony soils

Type 2. Cypress (cypress, thuja, juniper)

Features of the view:

the species includes both trees and shrubs;
plants have different colors of needles (green, blue, silver, yellow);
needle needles are replaced by scales or leaves;
garden plants are well adapted;
cypress trees easily tolerate a haircut;
plants keep the given shape for a long time

Type 3. Pine (spruce, fir, cedar, larch)

Features of the view:

plants retain decorative properties throughout the year;
the species includes a large number of garden varieties and forms;
plants are planted both singly and in groups;
dwarf varieties have a wide variety in the color of the needles, the shape and structure of the crown.
miniature pine trees are used to decorate small gardens, rocky hills, flower beds.

Small dwarf spruces can be grown in containers and placed on terraces, balconies and rooftops. To maintain the compactness of the plant, the soil should not be overly fertile.

How to keep a Christmas tree until spring

In an apartment for a Christmas tree, it is important to choose the coolest place, it is best that the temperature does not exceed +13 degrees. If the buds have started to grow, this means that the temperature is too high, and you need to find a cooler place.

It is also not necessary to put a tree in full shade, but direct sunlight for a coniferous plant during this period is undesirable. In a room with central heating, the tree will suffer greatly from dry air, so it needs regular spraying several times a day. You can place containers with water next to the tree or install a room humidifier.

For this purpose, you can also build a small greenhouse, but it is also not worth it to tightly wrap the seedling in a bag.

In order not to provoke fungal diseases, it is very important to ensure good air exchange. Watering is carried out by immersing the pot in a container with settled water for several minutes - until the root ball is saturated with moisture

For a Christmas tree, both overdrying and excessive soil moisture are equally dangerous.

It is better if the tree stands in the festive decoration for a minimum amount of time (no longer than a week)

At the same time, it is important to select jewelry and tinsel, which is not difficult to remove, so as not to damage the needles and young twigs. Toys should be lightweight and placed on free suspensions; it is better to refuse clothespins

It is also better not to cover the soil in the pot with any decorative materials so that the roots can breathe freely and the ground does not become moldy.

It may seem to some that a live Christmas tree will be better on the street, but this is not entirely true. Even if the tree has not yet started to grow, it will be too large a temperature difference for it, because it has already adapted to the temperature regime in the store window. In addition, the root ball freezes too much, which will lead to the death of the plant.

Theoretically, a Christmas tree can spend the winter time in a deep snowdrift. But winters have long ceased to delight us with a solid and stable snow cover, and with the alternation of prolonged thaws with frosts, this option can be completely dangerous.

It is necessary to plant a Christmas tree in the garden as soon as the ground thaws - around March. At first, it is advisable to shade a young seedling (for example, wrap it in burlap), since the spring sun can cause burning of the needles.

Where to plant dwarf conifers in the garden?

Some gardeners are so passionate about dwarf conifers that they collect large collections in their gardens. Such plantings look beautiful and unusual, but collecting is not suitable for everyone. Firstly, not everyone has enough funds for such a collection, because dwarfs are always more expensive than ordinary-sized plants. Secondly, not all of us want to collect anything at all.

In an ordinary amateur gardener, dwarf conifers can live in several places:

They can become a decoration of a rock garden or just a rocky hill. Among the stones, these "hedgehogs" look just great. They are combined with flowering "Alpines" and just with small plants and are a wonderful background for them.
Dwarf conifers are sometimes so interesting that it is worth planting them in full view: along the path or near the terrace. That is, in any place where the gaze will constantly fall on them.
Miniature conifers are ideal for planting in a Japanese garden.
Grown dwarf conifers can grow in a regular mixborder along with perennials and ornamental shrubs. But before that they will have to grow up.
They also look good in a gravel garden - the gravel perfectly sets off their beauty and uniqueness. There they will definitely not go unnoticed.

Features of dwarf conifers

Dwarf conifers include varieties that do not grow higher than 1-2 m during their life.The exception is creeping fast-growing evergreens, which grow strongly to the sides, but at the same time remain low. Miniature conifers are called varieties whose height does not exceed 0.5 - 1 m. Usually they are grown in pots and tubs.

All viable plants, including dwarf ones, are constantly growing. However, the growth in dwarf forms is not so pronounced and is only 2-3 cm per year. Distinctive features of dwarf conifers are dense crown and short stature. They have short lateral branches close to each other. A spherical crown shape is usually found.

Often on them you can see small dense globular clusters of shoots, which are called "witch brooms". They may be caused by a fungus or a virus.

Growing

Dwarf evergreens are propagated by vegetative methods - by layering and cuttings, not seeds. From the seeds, tall trees usually grow.

For planting, you can purchase plants in containers. The main thing is to make sure that the seedlings have well-developed, intact roots. Before buying, inquire about the size, crown shape and care of the plant. Some varieties first have a spherical crown, which then becomes conical. Be careful when choosing a variety, because "dwarfs" are quite expensive plants.

The pot in which you plant the plant should have drainage holes for rain and melt water to drain. Fill it with soil so that it remains 5 cm to the edge and plant a seedling. You can plant flowers nearby.

Thanks to their beautiful and clear geometric shapes, conifers have a wide range of uses in the garden. With their help, you can create all kinds of landscape compositions. Along the paths, on roofs and lawns, pots with conifers and flowers are well blown away. Several types of "dwarfs" of various shapes and colors can perfectly coexist in a stone trough. With their help, you can also arrange a rocky garden or a winter flower bed near the house, complementing it with ornamental grasses and flowers.

Crown shape

Like tall relatives, dwarf varieties have a varied crown shape.

Spherical (common spruce, balsam fir, mountain pine, western thuja).
Conical (mountain pine, gray spruce, Serbian spruce, Lawson cypress).
Columnar (berry yew, virgin juniper, eastern thuja).
Creeping (berry yew, horizontal juniper, prostrate juniper).

Klabukova Tatiana

Features in growing plants

Having chosen the variety you like for planting, you need to think in advance about the size of the pot in which the plant will grow. And also a very important step will be what kind of land you choose for planting. A special composition of the earth can be bought ready-made, it is sold in any gardening store. But if you simply cannot purchase it, it is not difficult to make it yourself, you need to take sand, coniferous soil and leafy soil in a ratio of 1: 2: 4 and mix it all thoroughly.

Also, pay attention to the fact that there must be holes in the pot where the thuja will grow so that excess water can drain. If there are no holes, then after a while the roots of the plant will simply rot.

Also, there must be drainage at the bottom of the pot. After the drainage is poured in the pot and the earth can be placed in it, the plant itself can be placed. It must be placed in the center and carefully cover the seedling with earth, gradually tamping it down. A distance of at least 5 cm should remain from the edge of the pot to the ground. After the seedling is planted, it must be watered.

If you want your thuja to grow well and develop correctly, you need to take proper care of it. First, plants should receive a lot of sunlight, but not direct rays, but slightly diffused ones. For the summer, the plant can generally be put on the balcony, just not on the south side. But in winter, the thuja should be in a room where the temperature is constant and does not drop below +20 degrees.Air humidity does not particularly affect the development of thuja, but still in the heat it is best to spray it from a spray bottle.

Everyone chooses the irrigation schedule individually for themselves, but you still need to ensure that the soil is always slightly moistened. And drying out, and vice versa, high humidity can easily harm your plants.
From the beginning of spring and throughout the summer, plants are best fed. The first spring fertilizer for thuja, as well as for other plants, simply needs nitrogen. But in the summer you need to add potassium and phosphorus

For thuja, it is very important that the temperature in the room is stable, and there are no jumps. And it is also very important to exclude any, even the slightest draft.

In general, this plant does not really like transplants, but if it happened that it just grew out of its pot, then the transplant should be carried out no more than once a year. The transplant must be carried out very carefully so as not to damage the powerful, but rather fragile root system. Initially, the soil in the pot needs to be well shed with water for easier extraction of the plant. And it is imperative to remove and move it to a new pot together with the old soil, and this must be done so that the roots of the plant are not exposed.

During the growth of the thuja, you can not cut much in order to give it the shape you need, but you only need to prune for those branches that have dried up.

Thuja propagation occurs in only two ways: this is by cuttings and growing a plant from seeds. In principle, everyone knows that the seeds of this plant are in its cones. Therefore, in order to get the seeds, you need to: cut off several branches on which there are cones and put them in a dark, warm place. After some time, the cones will dry and open, and then you can get seeds for planting without any problems.

How to care for coniferous plantings

All ephedra, when grown, can survive without your intervention. They have a strong root system that provides them with ample water. But until it has grown, the first one and a half to two years of the life of a tree or shrub, it needs to be watered regularly, once or twice a week. Each plant, depending on the size, takes 5 to 20 buckets of water. In autumn, watering is needed more active, in spring and summer - less, if there are no severe droughts.

To prevent the soil from drying out at the roots, use mulching. To do this, clear the grass from the ground around the plant. Then sprinkle it around with a layer of pine bark about 5 cm thick.

Also, twice a year, the plant can be fed, especially if the needles turn yellow or the branches grow slowly. In stores, you can find different feeds for conifers for autumn and spring. Carefully follow all instructions and proportions for using these preparations so as not to burn the roots.

These plants tolerate frost well, but sometimes fragile branches can break under the weight of snow. To avoid this, tie them up in late autumn, pressing them against the trunk.

And in mid-February, when the bright sun returns, young trees can be covered, because the needles easily fade and turn yellow. Use a regular tarp for this. It will be possible to remove it at the end of March.

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Bonsai for the home: combining plants

Cultivation of dwarf trees is a routine daily work, but even if you cannot grow a dwarf tree on your own at home, you can purchase a ready-made one, and then only maintain the condition of the plant, which is much easier. One thing in the interior will be quite enough if it is a full-fledged adult tree, and not just a prepared seedling. If these are very small dwarfs, then there may be several of them. If you follow the Eastern philosophy, it is better if there are an odd number of them in adjacent containers, for example, three.However, an adult dwarf can be supplemented with a pair of young specimens of the same age or different in proportion to the corresponding size of a third and two-thirds of the older specimen.

Bonsai elm large

Dwarf conifer araucaria

If you have decided on an alternative to growing other tree crops, you can use the technique used by experienced florists and designers. In a large container, they grow not one plant, but a couple at once, which mutually complement each other. The main condition for this is the same conditions necessary for cultivation, namely humidity, temperature and soil quality. So, plants from the same climatic region are well combined with each other.

Bonsai ficus benjamin

There are several options to consider. For example, a tree can be combined with a liana, for which it will be the main support. In another case, provided that the container is high enough, the tree can be supplemented with ampel (hanging) varieties of indoor plants.

Dwarf flowering tree loropetalum

Bonsai called Eugene

Large-fruited cypress Goldcrest

This beautiful plant with golden needles is especially popular among flower growers. Cypress prefers bright, diffused sunlight, does not like frequent and abrupt changes in growing conditions, so try to move and rotate it as little as possible.

With the onset of warmth (10-14 ° C), it is advisable to settle the cypress in the open air. With the onset of autumn cold weather, the plant is brought into the house and kept at a temperature of 8-10 ° C, away from central heating devices. If you don't have a cool room in your home, spray your plants with warm water twice a day.

Watering should be plentiful from spring to autumn, moderate in winter. Top dressing is carried out from spring to autumn with fertilizer for conifers in a half concentration.

Cypress does not require frequent replanting (once every three years), however, it must be done very carefully, trying not to damage the roots of the plant. For transplanting, use compost from a mixture of peat, sand, foliage and coniferous litter

With insufficient lighting, the cypress stretches and loses its shape, and with an excess of direct sunlight, the needles turn yellow and crumble.

How to make beautiful compositions of conifers

Symmetrical placement

Plant conifers symmetrically to make your garden more elegant and to achieve a sense of harmony and thoughtfulness. To do this, select a central element, it can be a tall tree - pine, fir or spruce - and then plant plants on either side of it downwards, for example, dwarf spruces, lush juniper bushes. Such plantings can be arranged with a small fence of folded stones or planted around the lawn, as well as diversified with other shrubs and flowers, for example, roses.

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Playing on contrast

Different trees and shrubs have different shades of needles: from delicate light green to rich green, blue. You can alternate between light and dark needles in your garden composition. Then it will look deeper and more interesting, especially if you correctly arrange the plants. Try planting larger trees and shrubs further away, and dwarf and miniature trees closer to home. The landscape will appear multi-stage, and the site will appear a little larger visually.

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Forest style garden

If you don't stick to strict lines and don't enclose the plants, you can get an interesting forest effect in your garden. To do this, you need to select several large trees that grow in diameter up to 1.5-2 meters, and plant an undergrowth of dwarf conifers and various grasses between them.

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Alley

Thuja and fir trees make beautiful shaded alleys if they are planted tightly enough to each other along the garden paths. At the same time, the paths themselves should be laid out with tiles or stone so that the roots do not break through to the surface. It is better to leave the space around the trees outside the pathway empty and sow with a neat lawn, since such an alley itself is a very noticeable accent.

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Flower beds

From dwarf varieties of spruce and pine trees, as well as from juniper, interesting coniferous flower beds are obtained. Examples of such landscape compositions with conifers are in the photo in the gallery. Due to the different color of the needles, they look as interesting as flower arrangements.

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Compositions with stones

All conifers thrive on rocky soil. Therefore, they are great for creating rockeries and alpine slides. In the photo in the gallery - landscape design with stones and conifers. To create such a decor, you will need to fill a small hill from fertile soil, plant plants in it and then cover it with a layer of sand and large stones.

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Where to place conifers and shrubs

To understand how to plant ephedra in landscaping, use some interesting distribution techniques that look good in any area.

Along the boundaries of the site. With the help of thujas, firs and pines, you can hide the area from the eyes of strangers, cover up an unsightly neighbor's fence or shade some part of the garden, for example, to equip a recreation area there. Thuja, for example, western Columna, are well suited for these purposes. You can plant them with a solid wall or make gaps of about one meter, filling them with juniper. The most unpretentious and hardy junipers: Blue Arrow, scaly, horizontal and Chinese. They tolerate winter well if planted in spring and given time to settle down.
Along the tracks. You can emphasize garden paths and plant low-growing miniature conifers along them, for example, a spruce of the Lilliput variety. For 10 years, it grows up to half a meter in diameter and resembles a fluffy light green ball. Dwarf spruce varieties that look good along paths include Little Gem, Nidiformis, and Push. Black spruce and dwarf Serbian pine will also work.
In the middle of the lawn. Ephedra are also well suited for planting beds and planting in small groups in vacant areas of the garden. They liven up the landscape well and take root even in shaded areas where flowers do not grow.
Along the front of the house. Juniper is perfect for planting along the perimeter of the cottage to revive the empty space in front of him. Try creeping varieties such as horizontal, Cossack, Pfitzer, or Lime Glow juniper.
In pots. A great way to decorate your patio and at the same time easily and effortlessly change the landscape design is to use ephedra in pots. For example, you can decorate your garden with Nana or Arizonica Compacta dwarf balsamic fir.

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Photos of conifers for the garden

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Canadian spruce "Konica"

In most cases, in the role of New Year's decoration, you can find a Canadian spruce of the dwarf variety "Konika". The tiny size, dense fluffy crown and short needles make this Christmas tree absolutely charming and desirable as an interior decoration.

To make it more attractive, it is often decorated with small toys and tinsel. This type of spruce belongs to the 5th zone of frost resistance, that is, it can withstand frosts down to -30 degrees. It follows from this that with proper care, "Konika" is quite promising in the gardens of the middle lane, and it makes sense to try to preserve the tree before planting it in the garden.

For some gardeners, the Canadian spruce of this variety has been growing for about 10 years and is a dense pyramidal tree of one meter height. The only drawback typical of "Konica" can be called burning of needles in winter, but this problem is easily solved by covering the crown with burlap.

Basically, such a Christmas tree belongs to unpretentious plants, requires minimal maintenance, tolerates partial shade and moderate watering. As New Year's, Canadian spruces with green needles are on sale (in fact, "Konica" itself), but this spruce has other varieties.

The varieties Rainbow’s End and Daisy’s White outwardly differ little from Konica, but in early spring the young growth of these trees has a very beautiful bright yellow growth. The Blue Wonder spruce is distinguished by its unusual blue color with its characteristic conical shape and dense arrangement of branches.

Canadian spruce Rainbow's End. Lyudmila Svetlitskaya

Determination of planting space for plants in rockeries

An important point when planting plants in rockeries is to determine the appropriate planting site.

When planting flowers and other plants for rockeries, the following main types of seats are distinguished: terrace, hole, crevice, slope, stone.

Terrace - a horizontal or slightly inclined area with a ledge, as a rule, sufficiently illuminated and more humid. It is used in large rocky gardens for planting rather large herbaceous perennials that do not form clumps (shirokokolokolchik, dense-flowered mullein, bellflower, crested serrata, yellow gentian), herbaceous perennials that form clumps (fragrant perennials, bellflower, common bellflower, common oregano , sandy cmin), ground-cover plants (creeping tenacious, creeping veronica, creeping thyme, white-tomentose dubrovnik, thick-leaved berry, pink evening primrose, etc.).

A hole is an earthen "pocket" or a narrow short terrace formed between stones when they are laid. It is characterized by isolation, security, good drainage.It is especially suitable for planting rare plants, as well as medium-sized heat-loving perennials (rosemary, lavender, medicinal sage), ephemeroids (tulip, narcissus, hyacinth, spring peel, primroses, yellow goose onions, saffron).

A crevice is a very narrow horizontally or vertically located gap between stones, walkway slabs, in the wall of dry masonry. It is preferable for growing rocky species and for plants that do not tolerate excessive waterlogging (roofing rejuvenated, creeping thyme, sandy cumin, creeping tenacious, herbaceous capers, white-tomentose duckweed, bitter wormwood, rosea rhodiola). In the crevices, cymbalaria, centranthus, and Olympic St. John's wort love to grow.

Slope - an inclined (at an angle of not more than 45 °) rockery surface, not fixed with a stone. This is not a very convenient place for planting plants. However, to prevent soil shedding, ground cover and other species with a densely branched or deeply spreading root system or creeping, rooting shoots should be grown here (creeping thyme, rosemary, lavender, Moldavian snakehead, prickly artichoke, herb creeping, thighs crimson , White-felt Dubrovnik, etc.). On the slopes in the summer, various stonecrops, mesembriantemum, seem to "flow".

For planting, depressions are usually made in them, which are filled with soil substrate, and seeds or small seedlings of herbaceous perennials are planted (young roofing, stonecrop, creeping thyme), but sometimes, especially in the countries of Southeast Asia, you can even see a pine tree in the stone.

The most beautiful flowers for rockery are shown in these photos: