When to dig up lilies

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Storing hyacinth bulbs

In their homeland and in countries with a suitable climate, hyacinths not only bloom at much earlier dates, but also have the opportunity to remain for a long time after flowering in warm ground. In such comfortable conditions, the bulbs manage to form the rudiments of a full-fledged inflorescence.

The plant in Central Russia is in a completely different position. Our hyacinths bloom much later (early - from the end of April), which significantly reduces the preparation time for flowering for the next year. The temperature regime in which the bulb "ripens" also changes.

Amateur flower growers have to go to all sorts of tricks to have hyacinths in bloom every year. Artificial measures help to correct the situation. To do this, the bulb is dug out of the soil in the summer (from late June to early July), and in the fall (from October to the first half of November, weather permitting), it is returned to the ground again. Be sure to put sand under the bottom of the onion.

I plant hyacinths as the last of all bulbous crops. If the onset of severe cold weather is promised, then I additionally mulch the soil with well-decomposed compost. Some of the "unnoticed" hyacinths can remain in the ground all summer long. In autumn, they often begin to germinate prematurely. They also need to be covered with compost. You can read more about the autumn planting of hyacinths in the article "Autumn planting of hyacinths".

Bulbs of hyacinths, the distillation of which is sold in winter and spring, should be dug out of the ground of the flower garden and sent for storage in July, a couple of weeks later than the rest of the hyacinths. But this applies only to those plants that were grown according to the method proposed in the article "Hyacinth in a pot - how to keep a plant after flowering."

Properly organized summer storage of bulbs is of great importance for the formation of a full-fledged inflorescence and further flowering of hyacinths for the next year. The dug out onion must first be dried for 5 - 7 days (at a temperature of + 20 ° C). Then the remnants of the earth and roots are cleaned off from it, subjected to a thorough "sanitary" inspection and placed in storage. I often immediately rinse the newly dug hyacinth bulbs with a water jet from a hose, then discard those that have caused the slightest doubt. After that, I dry all the bulbs and store them for further storage. It is desirable to sort them (by size, variety, color or other characteristics).

For the first two months, hyacinth bulbs are kept at an air temperature of + 25 ° C, This is not difficult, since it is usually hot during these summer months. If possible, then in the first ten days the air temperature should be increased to +27 - 30 ° С.Of course, you need to make sure that the planting material is in a well-ventilated dry area (for example, in a barn). The remaining time before planting, the bulbs are kept in cooler conditions (about + 18 ° C). One to two weeks before planting, it is useful to harden them at an air temperature of about + 10 ° C.

I remember well my first luxurious white hyacinth, which not only grew, but also bloomed gorgeous without any transplant for several (about five) years. It was planted in a flower garden, which had been built shortly before that on the site of a wide (half a meter deep) pit, which for a while became a humus heap. On top of the semi-decomposed plant remains, sand mixed with peat was poured, and a layer of garden soil was laid. Such raised beds and flower beds are very helpful during the development of the site. In a sunny place, protected from the wind from all directions, a special microclimate has developed. Even those exotics that were doomed in other places felt great there. The hyacinth bloomed annually and managed to give several babies. We found them and separated them after digging it up. The hyacinth clearly liked the microclimate, the loose fertile soil and other conditions of this raised flower garden. Yes, and I (unknowingly) once again did not disturb the plant.

But this option, rather, can be considered an exception. For guaranteed high-quality flowering of hyacinths, they need to be dug up annually and create proper storage conditions for them.

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Lilies: planting and care

How do lilies propagate?

The easiest way is with children. In most species, babies - small bulbs - grow on the lower part of the stem in the upper layer of soil. In some species, airy bulbs form on the stem, which crumble directly onto the soil and germinate on their own. In all species, a large onion divides into several over time. Bulbs also reproduce by separate scales. Lilies can be propagated by seeds, but from seeds they will bloom very, very slowly.

When is the best time to plant and transplant lilies?

The best time to plant and transplant lilies is at the end of August. But you can do this in the spring, before the buds appear. When transplanting, lilies are not dried like tulips. They are dug up, the nest is divided into separate bulbs, the roots are cut, leaving about 10 cm, and immediately planted in a new place so that the roots do not bend up. If there are rotten scales, then they are removed.

Children and small bulbs are planted separately in a nursery school. It is very useful to pre-water the planting site with a 3% solution (1 tablespoon per 1 liter of water) with Bordeaux liquid or, after planting, with Fitosporin solution. When sprouts appear next spring, plantings should be re-watered with Fitosporin or Bordeaux liquid, but with a 0.1% solution (1 teaspoon per 7 l), otherwise you will burn the leaves.

Lilies are transplanted, depending on how much they have grown, every 4-6 years, otherwise flowering worsens. They can be left in the same place, but the soil must be changed.

On what soil should lilies be planted?

Lilies need non-acidic, humus-rich, well-draining soils. When planting, sand should be added under the bottom of the bulb with a layer of 2-3 cm, and after planting, it is better to completely cover the bulb with sand so that it does not rot in rainy weather.

How deep should the bulbs be planted?

Like all bulbous, lilies are buried three bulb heights. The exception is the white lily candidum and the white lily regale, which deepen only 2-3 cm, otherwise they will not bloom. But for the winter they need to be hilled and covered.

Where is it better to plant lilies - in the shade or in the sun?

Most varieties prefer a sunny location, but there are varieties that require partial shade, so ask this question when buying bulbs.

How to prepare the soil for lilies?

Mix peat, sand and rotted compost in equal volumes and for each bucket of mixture add 1 liter of ash and 3 tablespoons of Azofoska or any other complex fertilizer (instead of mineral fertilizer, you can add 3-4 granules of AVA fertilizer). Add this mixture to the root zone, and put any infertile soil on top of the bulb, as long as it is not acidic, it allows moisture and air to pass well (for example, moor peat with chalk, or ash, or dolomite).

When to transplant lilies

The most optimal time for planting and transplanting lilies in the garden of the middle zone is August-September, in the southern regions - until mid-October. In any case, it is necessary to "disturb" the lilies after flowering (therefore September is considered the ideal month for transplanting).

Immediately after flowering, the flowers of the lily need to be cut off so that the plants do not consume nutrients for the formation of seeds.

Is it possible to transplant lilies in the summer (in July)

Only some varieties with a special vegetative cycle can be replanted in July. These are mainly Candidums, which have a dormant period in July-August, so it is better to transplant them during these months. Asian hybrids can easily tolerate transplanting at any time of the year. The main thing with a summer transplant is not to damage the roots.

If lilies have bloomed early, they can be transplanted in summer.

Is it possible to transplant lilies during flowering

In most cases, this is a risky activity that harms the plant. It is believed that during flowering, only Asiatic lilies can be transplanted, which bloom early and are generally considered one of the most hardy. In particular, during flowering, you can transplant the varieties Aelita, Yeti, Lady Jane, Iowa Rose, Montreux, Pearl Jennifer, Pearl Justin, Red Velvet, Pink Haze, Sweet Sarrender, White Twinkle.

How to properly care for the winter

Minimal maintenance is required to store the lily bulbs until planting in the spring. At home, they make sure that the plants do not dry out, but do not lie in high humidity. The bookmark is checked at least once a month, if necessary, lightly sprayed with water. If the seed is sweaty, change the filler to dry and fresh.

If it happens that the bulbs have sprouted and roots, they are planted in the ground. Otherwise, the lily will not survive - it will die, or it will not bloom. Gardeners recommend overexposing the dormant plant in peat pots. Then, with a spring transplant, you will not have to disturb the roots. Lily can be planted in a flower bed along with a container.

The best option is to leave the bulbs in the ground until spring. But if this is not possible, a balcony or refrigerator will help preserve the regal flower. It is easier for basement or cellar owners to keep lilies in peat. The basement rooms are well maintained at a favorable temperature

But at the same time, it is important to protect the bulbs from moisture and rodents.

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Step-by-step instruction

The following step-by-step instructions for digging up lily bulbs are provided:

1. prepare the site (free from leaves, small debris using a light rake); in order not to confuse the area with lilies that remain to winter in the open field, after flowering, you need to designate it with a sign with a note;
2. cut dried lily stems at the root with garden shears;
3. dig up the onion with a pitchfork, carefully remove the lumps of soil from it;
4. cut the roots to 5-7 centimeters, inspect the bulb for rotten and dried out areas, remove them with a sharp knife;
5. immerse the dug specimens in a disinfecting solution (fungicide, potassium permanganate) for 10 minutes;
6. remove the bulbs from the solution, dry thoroughly on grates in a ventilated room inaccessible to sunlight (canopy, woodshed);
7. after drying, break off the babies from the mother's bulb, place them in a container with sand;
8. further (based on the purpose of the destination), the divided onion with the children is either planted back into the soil, or sent for winter storage.

Gladioli have faded what to do next

When to dig up gladiolus in the fall? They are dug out even before the arrival of real cold weather, so September - October are suitable months for these purposes. It all depends on the climatic zone in which you live, if you get cold very early, then it will be advisable to dig up gladiolus bulbs in September. If the climate allows you to hesitate a little with this question, and admire the flowers in the flower bed, you can afford it.

Of course, you need to be constantly in this process and monitor the following things:

• Weather forecast. Remember that subzero and even zero temperatures are the death of gladiolus bulbs.
• Flowering period. Between the flowering period, and the harvesting of the gladiolus for storage, thirty days must pass so that the flower has time to form a tuber capable of surviving and reproducing in the next season.
• If the plant is affected by a fungal disease, and brown spots appear on the leaves, it should be immediately dug up and stored, but separately from healthy plants.
• Weather. The weather when digging up gladiolus in the fall should be sunny and dry.
• The device. You do not need special tools for this work, just take an ordinary shovel and carefully wield it.

How to prepare gladioli for winter storage

What to do after you have dug up gladioli in the fall? Of course, they need to be prepared for storage:

• To do this, the first thing to do is to clean the tubers from the soil and foliage.
• Then we cut off the leaves with a secateurs, retreat from the bulb, about three centimeters and cut off. This will allow the tuber to survive better into the spring, as the foliage sucks out the moisture that the tuber needs.
• We cut off the roots, just below the base.
• Gladiolus tubers must be processed before storing. There are two processing options, immediately after assembly and before planting. For these purposes, this is a solution of potassium permanganate (0.5 grams per 1 liter of water), wash each tubers separately, and then wipe them with a dry cloth.
• We carry out drying before storing. This procedure lasts about 7 days. To do this, we put gladioli in one layer in boxes, made of cardboard or wood. The temperature regime of such storage should fluctuate between + 26 + 29C, the room should be dark. Then the boxes are transferred to a cooler room, where the temperature will not exceed + 21C, and they have been stored there for 30 days.

How to store gladioli in winter at home

Storing gladiolus tubers in the apartment in winter

Before laying the tubers for storage, they should be wrapped in a newspaper, each individually, the newspaper can be replaced with natural fabric. It will not work to store gladioli in the living room, for this you need to have a glazed balcony or loggia, since the temperature for storage should not be higher than + 11C but also not lower than + 6C.

How to store gladioli:

• Shoe box, holes need to be made in the box;
• Boxes made of plastic or wood.

Note that other plastic containers or plastic bags cannot be used for such storage.

Storing gladioli in the refrigerator

If you do not have a loggia and balcony, or any other suitable cool place, then you can store gladioli in the refrigerator. Gladioli are stored in the least cold compartment of the refrigerator, read the instructions from your own, and find this place, most often these are the lower compartments where fruits and vegetables are stored, although in new models of refrigerators, such places are not suitable for these purposes.

Folk remedies for fighting the fungus on gladioli will help protect the plant until spring, just put chopped cloves of garlic in the container where you store the tubers, they will cope with this problem.

Digging lily bulbs for the winter

When planning how and when to dig up lily bulbs for transplanting to another place, take into account the following nuances:

long-flowered, American and oriental hybrids react ambiguously to transplanting in the fall, as they are characterized by low winter hardiness properties. In growing conditions in regions with a difficult climate, including in the middle lane and the Moscow region, it is recommended to dig up the bulbs and send them for storage until spring planting. In the south, with mild winters, these thermophilic varieties tolerate transplanting well in the fall to another place;
bulbs of unique specimens are dug up in the fall for storage in guaranteed comfortable conditions before planting in the spring or transplanted for the winter in a greenhouse. A similar care option is also recommended in the case of crop varieties that do not have accurate information about the characteristics of winter hardiness;
every autumn, bulbs of Asian hybrids are dug up for transplantation to a new place. Do not neglect the recommendations of experts and postpone the "move" of the flower to another area. Asian hybrids are characterized by fertility, they form many children, which necessitates an annual transplant

In the fall, it is important to dig up the bulb and separate the babies, otherwise they will grow tightly to the mother's base. Due to the large number of children, the plant lacks nutrients and moisture, the bush weakens, and decorative qualities deteriorate.

After digging up and separating the babies, the mother bulbs of Asian hybrids are transplanted to a new place, having previously been treated in a fungicide solution. Young offspring are sent for storage for the winter, in the spring they are planted in open ground.

How to prepare bulbs, tubers and roots for storage at home

Preparation of gladiolus corms includes several stages:

Initially, the planting material needs to be washed, then treated to prevent the occurrence of plant diseases. The simplest and most common method is the use of a solution of potassium permanganate: 10 g is diluted in a liter of water. The bulbs are placed in this composition for 25-30 minutes, after which they are thoroughly dried. If this condition is not observed, the planting material may be exposed to wet rot, which spreads at a rapid pace. One affected corm is enough to lose all the rest. Also, gladioli can suffer from thrips, a microscopic pest that spreads infectious diseases. Some growers miss the treatment step. At the same time, corms can really successfully overwinter, but this applies only to strong and healthy material.

Antiseptic treatment of bulbs will relieve the plant from mold and pest damage

Drying is recommended for two to three days. The material is left outside during the daytime and removed into the building at night.

Thorough drying will allow you to prepare high-quality planting material for the winter

After such preliminary drying, the bulbs are placed in separate trays (preferably laid out in one layer) and left for two months in a ventilated room. For the first two weeks, the material should be stored at temperatures between 25 ° C and 30 ° C. After this period, the storage conditions must be changed to 20 ° C.

Storing corms in proper conditions will allow growers to prepare good material for planting in the spring.

If signs of thrips activity are detected, measures should be taken:

1. You can use a special insect spray. The affected material is placed in plastic bags and the drug is injected there, after which it is well tied and left for 30-60 minutes.
2. There is another way to destroy thrips - heat treatment. The bulbs are immersed in hot water at a temperature of + 50 ° C for 5 minutes. Then they are removed and dried thoroughly.
3. Garlic will help scare off pests. It is simply put together with the onions in a peeled form. A few teeth are enough. Garlic will not only protect the planting material from thrips, but will also prevent the penetration of infections.
4. You can also use mothballs or an insecticide for this purpose.
5. If the corms are infected with mold, they should be washed with any detergent and sponge. Laundry or tar soap will do. Next, the material is treated with a disinfectant and rotten areas are cut out. Then the corms are dried and placed in a new box for subsequent storage, the old container cannot be used.

Regarding whether it is necessary to peel the onion and remove the integumentary scales, the following can be noted. With insufficient drying, this layer turns into a beneficial environment for the appearance of rot and mold, as well as the reproduction of thrips. But on the other hand, such a cover prevents drying out. For this reason, many experienced gardeners agree that it is not worth peeling the corms of gladioli. And special means will help protect the material from diseases and pests in the winter.

Before storage, the tubers are arranged according to varieties and placed in fabric bags. You should not use other material for this purpose, since gladioli need a constant supply of air. In order not to confuse varieties, their names must be written on the labels and put into the appropriate bags.

It is recommended to remove the part of the stem left by pruning after digging up. This advice is not a prerequisite, but will help prevent thrips from developing. This kind of stump is a suitable place for an insect to stay

But it should be borne in mind that after pruning the hemp, the growth bud remains open and is more susceptible to drying out. The root system also needs to be removed

Do the bulbs need to be dug up?

Lily is a perennial bulbous herb that can grow in one place without transplanting for up to 6 years or more. The flower is propagated by separated daughter bulbs in late August or early September. Reproduction by baby bulbs and scales can be done at any time of the year. The following are the main factors that lead to digging up lilies every year:

• type of plant;
• climatic conditions;
• target orientation.

Each type of flower has its own characteristics. In the twentieth century, new types of frost-resistant lilies were introduced to the population, including hybrid plant varieties that opened up new standards of vitality and disease resistance. The most hardy and unpretentious are such types of lily hybrids as:

• Asian;
• curly;
• tubular.

Some types of lilies, including exotic ones, are not very hardy, but because of their beauty, many gardeners would like to see such flowers on their plots. Breeding lilies brought from southern countries to places with cold climates often gives a positive result, provided that the bulbs of these plant varieties must be dug up every year for the winter. These types include the following:

• white lilies;
• American hybrids;
• long-flowered hybrids;
• oriental hybrids.

Each climatic zone has its own flowers, which over the years have adapted to local weather conditions, this is called natural selection. When buying a lily of a new variety, you need to find out where the flower comes from. The right information will help the grower use the right methods for growing it. When growing flowers for sale, lilies are excavated every year to get new copies as quickly as possible. In such cases, they often resort to an artificial method of obtaining a large number of offspring - the bottom of the bulb is cut out or deep cuts are made on it, then a lot of children are formed.