When and how to transplant astilba correctly?

How to propagate spirea in the fall

Spirea, like many other perennial shrubs, can be propagated in the following ways:

• seeds;
• cuttings;
• layering;
• dividing the bush.

How to propagate spirea by cuttings in the fall

Spirea in the fall is quite easy to graft. Planting material for spring-flowering varieties is harvested from the beginning of summer, and summer-flowering varieties from the middle. However, it is best to propagate spirea with lignified cuttings in early autumn. To do this, he uses annual shoots, cutting them in such a way that there are at least 5 buds on each segment. To reduce the loss of moisture during evaporation, the lower leaf of the cutting is removed, and the upper one is cut in half.

It is not necessary to use a root growth stimulator, even without it, the survival rate of cuttings reaches 70%. If the sections are processed, for example, with Kornevin, this indicator will increase to almost 100%.

It is very important to provide constant hydration. Therefore, the cuttings are placed in moistened soil, and then covered with a film on top, creating greenhouse conditions

The easiest way is to use half a plastic bottle. In this state, the cuttings remain for the winter. You just need to additionally cover the bottles on top with a layer of sawdust, dry grass or fallen leaves. In the spring, the shelter is removed, and the rooted cuttings are transplanted to a permanent place.

How to propagate spirea by dividing a bush.

Reproduction of spirea in autumn is also possible by dividing the bush. A plant over 4 years old can be used as a donor. At this time, its root system is quite developed. The mother plant is completely dug out of the ground, with the help of water from a hose, its root system is cleaned. It is best to use a pruner to cut the bush into separate divisions.

Each separated part should have several independent shoots with a full-fledged root system. Delenki are planted in prepared planting pits in the same way as seedlings usually.

Further care

After the hosts have landed in a new location, she needs to pay extra attention. First of all, we must not forget about the timely watering of this plant.

It is very useful to "pamper" the host with an evening shower. You should not be too zealous at the same time, because the roots of the hosts can simply rot from the excess of moisture. At other times of the day, it is better for the host not to water.

Like any other plant, the hosta needs additional feeding, which must be applied three times during the entire season. The first portion of fertilizer is applied in early spring, at the very beginning of growth. The second feeding falls on the beginning of flowering of the hosta. The last portion is applied after the plant has faded.

You can apply both organic and mineral fertilizers. The former help to improve the structure of the earth, and also significantly activate the work of worms. Rotten leaves, bark, compost or hay can be used. However, only organic matter will not be enough for the plant, therefore, such preparations as "Bazakot" or "Osmokot" are suitable as mineral fertilizers. When making any fertilizers, you need to know that the plant must be watered before the procedure.

Fertilizers can be either root or foliar. The first are granular dressings, which, at the right time, are very carefully scattered on the previously loosened soil around the bush. Foliar medications work differently. To fertilize the plant, the bush must be sprayed both from below and from above.

Don't forget about weeding. However, this must be done rather carefully so as not to damage the root system. If the grower does not have time to loosen the soil often, mulch can be used. It not only saves the plant from weeds, but also helps to retain moisture.The layer of mulch should not be less than 5 centimeters. However, it is worth remembering that pests such as slugs are very often found in such an environment. Therefore, it is necessary to scatter rubble or shell rock near the bush, because it will protect the bush from these enemies.

Since the hosta attracts everyone with its beautiful foliage, one should try to keep it in good condition. To do this, you need to cut the peduncles, because they take away the strength from the bush, which makes it loose and sloppy. Care also includes pest and disease control. The host can be infected with gray mold or the HVX virus. You need to deal with them with the help of special drugs or folk remedies.

For information on how to properly divide and transplant the host in the fall, see below.

Choosing the right time

When is it better to transplant conifers - in spring or autumn?

There is a fierce debate on the forums over which time of year is best for this. Someone advises May, others - November, still others argue that the best option is one of the cloudy days in August.

Such ambiguous judgments, even among specialists, are easy to explain. There is no absolutely safe period for transplanting conifers. There is a threat in everyone. For example, many advise doing this in March, when:

• the snow has just melted, the first thaw has begun;
• the air warmed up to + 6 ° С;
• young buds, shoots, needles have not yet appeared on the plant.

Indeed: what is the danger if the tree is still sleeping after winter? However, the juices in its roots begin to awaken in advance in order to start the process of landscaping and renewal by a certain time. And it is good if the transplant is necessary at the moment when it is still in a frozen state. But, if the conifer is dug up, when its biochemical processes are already in full preparation for the spring awakening, the biobalance will be disrupted. The risk of death increases several times.

In the same way, the autumn transplant, which is recommended by many amateurs and professionals, is practically no different from the spring situation. When it is advised to do this:

• with the first frosts;
• In November;
• when a coniferous plant goes into hibernation.

Indeed, the biochemistry inside the trunk freezes, there is no risk of disturbing the tree (shrub). However, the danger lies in the fact that it is impossible to say for sure whether the plant has fallen asleep or not. There are no obvious specific signs. Therefore, during the transfer there is always a risk of "hitting a living", that is, damage and reduce the lifespan.

Some are quite successful in transplanting in September, when the heat has subsided, but there is still a little time before the tree (shrub) begins to prepare for hibernation. In such cases, accuracy is of great importance. If the root system has not grown much and if you try not to injure it, the chances of survival are quite high.

Can conifers be transplanted in October?

Most experts are discouraged from such a rash step. It is believed that it is at this time that the plants are actively preparing for winter, therefore, the intensive sap flow from roots to branches can be disrupted. This will reduce their survivability in the coming frosts and prevent them from surviving the cold.

And in the summertime?

In summer, transplanting is possible only in cool, northern regions, where there is no heat. In this case, the plant should be low and not too old. In winter, only old-timers - large-sized ones (mainly spruce and cedars) are usually transplanted.

The safest thing, according to most experts, is to make a transplant in March.

Lily transplant: step by step instruction

Site preparation

Lilies are transplanted once every 3-4 years. Choose a bright, open area with fertile, well-drained and breathable soil. Some species, such as tubular hybrids or Asiatic lilies, may be comfortable in the sun or in light partial shade, but not under trees. Japanese, curly, calloused, reddish, gorgeous, golden, lovely and carniola lilies prefer to grow in partial shade, while long-flowered, dwarf, monochromatic, cuddly, Daurian, orange, Chalcedonian and drooping lilies need a lot of sunlight.

Dig the area to the depth of a shovel bayonet, remove the rhizomes of perennial weeds. In heavy soil, add peat and coarse-grained river sand for digging, add 8 kg of compost or humus per m² to podzolic soils, and 4 kg of compost per m² to leached chernozem. If necessary, you can add coniferous litter and leafy soil to the topsoil. And mineral fertilizers - phosphorus, potash and nitrogen - are applied to the soil of any composition. Never use manure as fertilizer!

As for the level of acidity, each variety has its own preference in this matter: in areas with neutral soil, most of the lilies can be grown, but species such as Martagon, Regale, monochromatic, bulbous, curly, umbrella, Tibetan and white lilies grow better on slightly alkaline soils, while lilies of David, Daurian, tiger, Maksimovich and Wilmott prefer slightly acidified soils. Too acidic soil is neutralized with wood ash, chalk or limestone

If the site is located in a lowland where melt or rainwater can stagnate, make flower beds raised by 15-20 cm.

Preparation of planting material

Before planting, sort out the bulbs, discard rotten, soft and severely damaged bulbs. Clean the suitable planting material from dead scales, rinse in a solution of potassium permanganate or Fundazole, let the bulbs dry, and then sort them by size (parsing).

Planting bulbs outdoors

When planting lilies, a common scheme for all bulbous plants is used: the bulb is placed at a depth equal to three of its diameters, that is, the thickness of the soil layer above the bulb with a diameter of 5 cm should be equal to 10 cm.In heavy soils, the bulbs are planted at a slightly shallower depth, and in light soils - slightly more than the scheme suggests.

Yellow lilies on the site

For medium-sized lilies, a double-sided ribbon planting is used, when the bulbs are placed in a row at a distance of 15-20 cm, and between the lines they maintain a distance of about 25 cm.For low-growing lilies, it is better to use a three-line ribbon planting with an interval in a row of 10-15 cm and the same distance between lines. A single-line ribbon planting assumes a distance between the bulbs in a row of 5-10 cm, and between the lines - about half a meter.

Dig holes of the desired depth according to the scheme you have chosen, pour washed coarse sand mixed with wood ash into each mixture, plant bulbs in this pillow, spreading their roots and slightly pressing them into the sand, seal the holes with soil, water, and when the water is completely absorbed, cover the area with peat.

Follow-up care

Astilba is very easy to care for. The main maintenance and care are reduced to timely abundant watering. In the absence of moisture, the plant loses its decorative properties and looks sloppy. Leaves begin to wilt, and flowers noticeably decrease in size. For better plant development and prolongation of the flowering period, fertilizing with complex fertilizers can be carried out.

Flowering averages 30-40 days, although some varieties can bloom throughout the summer and in the first decade of September. Dried flowers must be removed immediately so that the plant looks aesthetically pleasing and well-groomed.

During the formation of buds, the bushes need phosphorus trace elements, and by the end of flowering, potash. Their introduction not only increases the growth of healthy stems and the splendor of the inflorescences, but also stimulates the formation of fertile seeds.Some time after applying top dressing (while moisture remains), the soil near the plants should be gently loosened, while trying not to hurt the rhizome.

The perennial is winter-hardy, tolerates cold well, but is sensitive to spring temperature changes, since it tends to quickly tune in to the growing season. When frost appears after warming, it is worth covering the perennial with spruce branches, old foliage, dry branches or covering material.

Astilba attracts flower growers also by the fact that it is almost unusual for it to be exposed to diseases and pests. It is extremely rare for the roots of some varieties to succumb to the defeat of the rootworm nematode. Preparations for fighting the pest are ineffective, therefore, the diseased bush should be destroyed along with part of the soil so that later there will be no deplorable repetitions. Plants should not be planted in this place for 1-2 years.

In order for the soil to retain its fertility longer, between the bushes of astilba it must be mulched with pine needles or rotted foliage. If the rhizome is exposed in a relatively young plant (if it is not planned to be transplanted), it should be sprinkled with a layer of fertile soil. Be sure to repeat the procedure for adding land to the base in the fall (before the end of the summer cottage season).

Astilba is in perfect harmony with most horticultural crops and will undoubtedly decorate any site or local area. She is completely unassuming to care for, and a timely transplant will help preserve her beauty and prolong her luxurious flowering.

For the spring planting of astilbe, see below.

Astilba will be a wonderful decoration of the garden plot. Its gorgeous bloom always attracts the eyes of others. Unpretentious care is considered a big advantage.

In order for the plant to be strong and flowering, first of all, you should take care of planting in open ground, and transplanting. This is what will be discussed in this article.

How to plant irises in open ground: step by step instructions

Correct transplanting and planting of plants will ensure their good survival and winter hardiness. A warm and not rainy day is chosen for the work, since excess moisture near the holes will contribute to root decay. If you have decided on the timing of the procedure, then further actions will consist of performing several important stages.

1. The faded peduncles are removed from the plant, they are dug out of the ground and divided into parts so that each division has a part of the root, at least 2 cm in length.

2. Rhizome slices of irises are necessarily treated with crushed charcoal and allowed to dry out. Such actions will help to avoid decay of the root system.

3. The leaves of the iris cut are shortened by 1/3 of their length. If the roots are too long, then they also need to be shortened to 2–5 cm.

4. To plant plants, you need to prepare the soil. If bearded varieties are to be planted, then a mound of river sand is poured into the holes, and for beardless varieties, mulching of the soil will be required in order to retain moisture in it. Before planting irises of all varieties, potassium-phosphorus fertilizers are applied to the planting hole.

5. Before planting, the roots of the division must be disinfected by dipping them for 20 minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate. The roots of bearded irises are sprinkled with soil in the hole so that they are located superficially - this method will prevent them from decay. For better adaptation, the rhizome can be sprinkled with a growth stimulant, for example, Kornevin.

   The roots of beardless varieties are buried a few centimeters into the soil, and the rest of the hole is filled from above with light peat mixed with spruce needles.

6. After planting, the flowers are watered with settled water with the addition of Fitosporin - this is necessary for the prevention of diseases and better plant survival.Further watering depends on weather conditions, but it should be remembered that overdrying of the soil and excessive stagnation of moisture should be avoided.

7. Having finished the transplant of irises, it is required to provide them with the necessary care: shade from the bright sun, apply top dressing, water, loosen and mulch the soil. Only in this case will the plant thank you with abundant and colorful flowering.

When the transplanted flowers bloom

After the perennial plant overwinters, the aboveground part of it completely dies off, but in the spring it grows back. This is facilitated by the upper root part, where the axillary dormant buds are located. Warm days and bright spring sun create favorable conditions for the growth of young green shoots, along with which future flower stalks are formed.

Blooming irises will decorate any flower bed

For a plant to bloom, it needs at least 8 green leaves. Knowing this feature, specialist florists transplant young cuttings with just that amount of green foliage and achieve flowering even in the season when the transplant was made.

What time of year to transplant and why: expert opinions

Experienced growers agree that irises can only be transplanted if the plant is not in the flowering phase. As for the choice of the time of year that is optimal for this process, the options are already beginning to differ from each other in their positive and negative sides.

Spring transplant

The spring months are considered a period of rapid development for all plants. Irises transplanted at this time take root well because the soil is saturated with moisture as much as possible after the snow melts. However, not everything is so simple: in order for these flowering perennials to take root, they are transplanted into the soil well warmed by the sun, and the roots of the plants are pretreated with growth stimulants.

After the snow melts, the irises begin to build up their green aboveground part.

The timing of the transplant depends on the region and its climatic conditions. For example, in the southern regions of Russia, heat comes early and already in mid-April, irises can be planted, but in the northern regions with such an event, you will need to wait until the end of May.

The division of the iris bush for spring transplantation is also carried out in the spring.

Summer transfer

According to long-term observations of flower growers, summer is considered a good time for dividing and planting divisions in a new place. The plant will bloom and shed the top of the stem after 2 weeks. This will be the best time to replant irises after flowering. For many varieties, this period occurs in mid-July. The choice of such a time for transplanting is explained by the fact that in late July - early August, the perennial begins to grow the root system and the chances of successful survival of the divisions in a new place increase many times over.

This is how the plant is prepared for a summer transplant.

Autumn transplant

For transplanting a perennial in the fall, choose the time from mid-August to mid-September. In southern regions with a warm climate, it is permissible to increase this period until the first decade of October.

Carrying out work on the autumn transplant of irises

The timing of the transplant should not be delayed, since the plant needs to have time to build up a sufficient root system in order to successfully overwinter. If this does not happen, for example, for the reason that the weather will be rainy and cold, or because of a plant disease, then the probability of the death of a perennial is high.

Terms of work for various types of irises

To date, more than 400 varieties of irises have been bred by the selection method. Each species has its own characteristics and ability to grow. Based on such features, the timing of transplanting varietal plants also depends:

• Siberian irises of Bundle of Joy, Blue King, Butter and Sugar, Double Standard, Hubbard, I see Stars, imperial Opal and others are transplanted 8–10 years after planting;
• the Far Eastern variety Kaempferi is transplanted 10 years after planting to a permanent place;
• hybrid bearded varieties Sky Hooks, Superman, Before the Strom, Brazilian Holiday, Classic Look, Romantic Evening, Nordica and other similar varieties are transplanted every 5 years;
• dwarf irises Cherry Carden, Blue Denim, Lumalite, Yo-Yo, Ritz, Lace Caper, Banbury Ruffles, Carats, Brassie and others are transplanted every 3-4 years;
• bulbous irises Harmony, Alida, Katherine Hodgkin, Pauline are transplanted no more than once every 5 years.

In order for the cultivation of irises to become an interesting and fruitful activity for you, you need to know not only the timing of transplanting these plants, but also the important nuances of such a procedure.

How to properly plant spirea in the fall

This ornamental shrub looks great both in individual and group planting. For example, it is often used as a hedge. Before planting, you need to choose a suitable place, and also stock up on a sufficient amount of planting material.

Landing site preparation

A planted spirea will do well in an open, well-lit area with loose soil. It should be borne in mind that partial shade has a good effect on this plant, it feels better in such conditions and gives brighter flowers, but their number will be less than when grown in open areas.

Sand or peat is often added to loosen the soil. These plants do not tolerate excess moisture, therefore swampy areas of the terrain are not suitable for planting them. Conifers get along best as neighbors with spirea.

Preparation of planting material

As a rule, the seedlings of this shrub are sold in nurseries or specialty stores. Their root system must be closed, that is, the seedling must have a clod of earth on the roots. It is preferable that it is young and does not have leaves, since their presence negatively affects the survival rate of the plant. If the root system of the seedling is open, it must be examined. The roots should be moist, pliable, and free of blackness. It is encouraged if they are covered with a mixture of manure and clay. The bark of the seedlings should be green, and the buds should be alive and healthy.

Rules for planting spirea in the fall in open ground

In the fall, it is allowed to plant a spirea of ​​both spring and summer flowering periods. It is better to do this in wet rainy weather, so the plants take root better. The planting hole needs to be prepared a few days before planting. Its size should exceed the volume of the root system together with a lump of earth. The pit walls are made vertical. A drainage layer of broken brick, expanded clay or crushed stone must be laid on the bottom.

Then an earthen mound is poured in the center of the pit. A seedling is installed on it. If the root system is open, the roots of the seedling are straightened along the walls of the earthen mound, and then sprinkled with soil up to half. After that, a bucket of water is added to the pit and finally fall asleep. The soil is slightly compacted, an earthen bead is poured around the seedling to prevent water from spreading during irrigation. After that, the root zone is mulched with peat or humus.

How to transplant spirea to a new place

Spirea that has not reached 4 years of age can be safely transplanted to another place in the fall. The easiest way to do this is by digging it up along with a clod of earth on the roots, and then planting it in another place. The root system of older bushes is already quite well developed, so transplanting an adult spirea in the fall will be fraught with certain difficulties. In this case, often not the entire bush is transplanted, but only part of it.

Subtleties of care

Further care for lilacs after planting is simple:

• in the northern regions, the bush must be protected from strong winds and frosts, a shelter must be built for it from natural materials or special insulation;
• immediately after planting, it is necessary to loosen the upper soil crust;
• in the absence of rain and hot weather, water the bush;
• also remove weeds.

To make the bush easier to take root in a new area, you can use special stimulating drugs - Kornevin, Epin. They stimulate rooting, saturate the plant with nutrients, and increase its immunity.