When to replant daylilies: fall, summer, or spring

Breeding methods for especially rare varieties of daylilies

Cuttings

At the end of flowering, from 1 to 5 shortened shoots (rosettes) appear on the peduncle from dormant buds. They are suitable for grafting when 4-6 pairs of leaves have formed on the rosette and callus appears (these are cells that are capable of giving rise to a whole plant). (see diagram 4)

4 Diagram of the formation of a rosette with callus on the peduncle of a daylily

Such a shoot is cut off with a part of the peduncle and, having shortened the leaves by 1/3, planted in the ground. With this method, up to 90% -100% of the cuttings are rooted.

Air layering

This type of vegetative propagation is used in daylilies, if the formation of a rosette has occurred, and the flowering is not finished, the seeds have not ripened.

In this case, a linen bag (case) with a mixture of peat, sand and garden soil in a ratio of 2: 1: 1 is put on the peduncle at the base of the outlet. It is watered and sprayed daily. During dry season - 2 times a day. When roots are formed, the rosette is separated from the mother plant and planted in the ground.

Seedlings obtained from cuttings and air layers bloom in the second year.

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Recommendations

The recommendations of experienced gardeners will help the daylily take root well in a new place and delight with beautiful flowering for more than one season.

Here are 13 tips for transplanting a daylily.

If you still decide to plant a daylily in the shade, without finding a better place for it on the site, you cannot expect that the flowers will demonstrate their high decorative qualities. But for dark varieties, the relative shade will not be an obstacle to beautiful flowering. If the result is not pleasing, look for a sunny area. Regarding the daylily, flower growers say that the lighter the plant variety, the more sun it needs.
Do not plant a daylily in a low-lying area. The fact is that flooding on it is not uncommon, and this leads to rotting of the plant roots. But it also happens that there is simply no other place on the site, in which case it should be strengthened with drainage.
Good flowering will provide the daylily with a slightly acidic substrate. Neutral will work as well. Saturate the soil with organic matter to keep the soil fertile. The daylily will be grateful to such soil and will delight you with bright, lush buds.
The best soil for a plant is loam. Sandy loam is also suitable, but with the condition of introducing nutritious humus.
Avoid transplanting during the day - active sun, even a plant as patient as daylily can be stressful. In the evening, in cloudy weather, or in the early morning, the transplant will be successful.
With a harsh climate in the region or forecasts for a cold autumn, do not delay the transplant, spend it in August.
Do not skip watering after transplanting. Even if there is no drought outside, the weather is moderate, water the transplanted bush every day. Do this for two weeks daily, you can extend this period to 3-4 weeks with occasional skipping watering. If the soil moisture is high, the plant will adapt more quickly to the new location.
After watering, be sure to loosen the soil - this will provide air access to the rhizome.
A month after transplanting, the daylily must be fed with the mineral composition of fertilizers with the inclusion of nitrogen.
Flowering shrubs are transplanted only if you cannot do without it. For example, construction is underway on the site, and the safety of the flower bed is under threat. Of course, there is no need to wait for a good rooting of the daylily during flowering. At this time, the plant spends energy on the formation of flowers, and they simply do not remain for adaptation to new conditions.
If the transplant takes place during flowering, and you cannot endure this moment, then you will have to sacrifice the flowering stems of the daylily with buds. This will give the plant the strength to adapt. Cut the stems 15 cm from the neck of the rhizome.
Monitor the condition of the flower after transplanting. The fact that it has successfully taken root will be eloquently indicated by the appearance of new greenery.
Daylilies tolerate even strong gusts of wind well, therefore it is not necessary to put supports for them without great need for that. Even freshly transplanted flowers are rarely needed.

If all the recommendations are followed, all the rules have been studied, neither the algorithm nor the transplantation time has been violated, the flowers will surely take root. The plant can be called modest and unpretentious, it can withstand drought under certain conditions, it can also endure frost.

For more on caring for daylilies, see below.

Preparing and carrying out the transplant

The actual transplant procedure is not difficult even for novice gardeners.

It is important to properly prepare for it, choose a new place, taking into account the basic requirements

Preparatory stage

As part of the preparatory activities, carefully inspect the site to find the optimal place for flowers

It is also important to take into account the qualitative and quantitative characteristics of the soil, and if they do not meet the requirements, add additional micro- and macroelements to stabilize acidity, loosen the soil so that the soil becomes more airy.

Site and soil preparation

Despite the fact that phlox are one of the most unpretentious crops, in order for them to bloom brightly and this phase lasts as long as possible, it is necessary to plant the plants on certain soils. The soil should be loose, well flavored with organic fertilizers. Humidity must be maintained at an optimal level throughout the flowering phase, and systematic feeding is also carried out.

Like many flowering plants, phloxes prefer an area that is well lit from all directions, but this light should be diffused.

A little shading is necessary not only to prevent the plants from getting sunburn. The diffused light will protect the flowers from drying out the soil, retain water in it, protect it from freezing in winter, and high neighboring bushes or trees will close them from winds and drafts.

Soil preparation technology for planting:

remove the weed from the surface, dig up the area for 1 bayonet of the shovel;
apply organic fertilizers to a depth of 15 mm, where the bulk of the phlox root system will be. For this purpose, compost, humus, wood ash, potassium salts, ammonium nitrate and other top dressing are suitable;
around each phlox bush there should be a near-stem circle with a diameter of about 45 cm, it is there that you need to apply the main fertilizers and remove weeds there.

When preparing the site, you need to add optimal top dressing to the soil. For a ten-liter bucket of compost, you will need 200 g of wood ash, 50 g of superphosphate, 30 g of ammonium nitrate and potassium salt each. Top dressing is applied before phloxes are placed in the wells.

How to prepare a plant for transplanting

Stages of preparation of planting material:

2 days before the procedure, water phlox abundantly to make it easier to get them;
a couple of hours after watering, gently pry with a pitchfork and dig up, being careful not to damage the root system;
the largest bushes are divided into parts using a sharp shovel;
shoots need to be cut to retain maximum nutrients;
in order for the plant to winter better, leave at least 2-3 leaves on each shoot, from which young shoots will come out in spring.

They also shorten roots that are too long. The maximum length is up to 20 cm. If they are longer, the plant will take root more slowly and will not adapt well in a new place. It is advisable to leave a large lump of old soil on the roots and transfer it to a new place with it.All dried, damaged by pests, yellow leaves and roots, as well as shoots must be carefully cut off with a sharp pruner.

Procedure technology

Phlox transplantation is performed in several stages:

Dig holes in advance, the width and depth of which should correspond to the approximate volume of the root system. Pits that are too large will not work as the plant will become unstable. Too small will lead to the fact that the roots will be cramped, and the flower will receive less nutrients and water.
Do not forget to make indents between the holes about 30-40 cm. So the plants will not be cramped, they will not compete with each other for light and water.
Pour 2 liters of warm water into each hole. Wait until the water is absorbed into the soil.
Then take a stalk, gently spread the roots inside the hole. Make sure that the root collar protrudes at least 5 cm above the hole.
Fill the hole with earth, press it lightly with your hands. Make a mound up to 15 cm high on top to protect the stem. This is done if you are performing the transplant procedure in the fall. If the transfer to a new place takes place in summer or spring, you do not need to make an embankment to insulate the trunk.

After planting, if it occurs in the fall, without waiting for the first cold weather, you need to mulch the flower bed. To do this, put dry sawdust, leaves or crushed peat in a 3 cm layer of each bush near the trunk.

Spunbond, other synthetic materials, film are not used for phlox. If the plant does not receive fresh air, it may die. Mulch is harvested after the snow has melted, when it is freezing minutes.

Reproduction

Daylilies are propagated by dividing the bush, seeds, stem cuttings.

Dividing the bush

This is the most common way in which the plant retains all the parental characteristics. Several methods of dividing daylilies are used: with digging out the bushes or without removing it from the ground.

The bush is dug out completely together with the root. The rhizome is washed with water. It is so easy to get rid of pests, all parts are clearly visible and it is convenient to divide the plant. Then the peduncle and leaves are removed, leaving shoots 10-15 cm high. The old bushes are dried, then the plant is cut into pieces so that each has a part of the root collar with a bud. To make more decorative greenery in the delots, 3-5 shoots are left on them.

It is problematic to divide heavily overgrown bushes. In such plants, young roots grow along the edges of the bushes, and these parts will quickly take root after separation. Delenki from the middle of a bush without young roots need time to grow, because these parts are more injured. There are more dead and long roots that are pruned. Delenki from the middle of the bush are planted on a temporary bed, and after 1-2 years - on a permanent place.

Young rosettes can be separated from loose daylily bushes at the end of summer without digging up the mother bush. To do this, choose two or three-year-old bushes with their own roots.

Without digging in the spring, you can divide not very growing varieties of daylilies. A bush is cut with a sharp shovel from a vertical position along the marked lines, then it is trimmed from below and the cuttings are removed from the ground. This method requires experience and skill. Places of cuts on the roots are sprinkled with wood ash.

Seed propagation

This method of propagation is more often used by breeders to obtain new varieties and hybrids. Daylily seeds are not stored for long. Planting is carried out before winter with freshly harvested seeds or in the spring of the next year. Daylily seeds need cold stratification. With podzimny sowing, this procedure will take place in the soil in a natural way. In the spring, the seeds are preliminarily kept at low temperatures of 2–3 ° C for a month. They are buried to a depth of 2-3 cm. Daylilies grown from seeds begin to bloom in 2-3 years.

Propagation by stem cuttings

In some varieties blooming in August, 1-3 new bushes are formed in the axils of the peduncles. When they grow back, several pairs of leaves and root tubercles will appear on them.

After the peduncle dries out, the rosettes are carefully separated from the mother bush. You can cut off cuttings with a piece of stem 3-5 cm

The leaves on the rosettes are shortened by a third, then the cuttings are planted in a nutritious substrate for rooting. At first, they make sure that the soil does not dry out, periodically spray it, shade the plants.

Features for different varieties

Bearded

Choose healthy plants for planting

Some of the most externally interesting Irises. The contour line of their petals is covered with yellow bristles, which serve to attract insects for pollination.

Propagated mainly by the method of dividing the bush, for which part of the overgrown green mass, together with the rhizome, is dug up with a shovel.

After that, the segments are disassembled either by pulling them out by hand, or with the help of garden tools.

It should be borne in mind that each such division must have at least one one-year-old link and leaves.

The more the latter, the better - the likelihood of the formation of a flower bud for the next season increases.

Additionally, it is necessary to cut the leaves by about ⅔ of the entire length and remove the peduncles, if any. Also, the cut is inspected for the presence of soft areas, which are cut out with a sharp knife. Subsequently, the seed is treated in an aqueous solution of potassium permanganate and dried for a couple of days in partial shade.

Siberian

The fundamental factors in transplanting Siberian Irises are their requirements regarding the growing area.

They feel comfortable in light shade near trees and bushes.
They love water, however, special waterlogging of the soil can lead to death. They are characterized by a powerful underground part, reaching a length of half a meter and serving as a pump for obtaining liquid.
They do not need to be tied up due to the elastic trunk, due to which it is permissible to place the plant in areas unprotected from the wind.

In one place, flowers can exist for up to 10 years. A transplant is required subject to thickening. It is also carried out by dividing the bush, each segment of which should be placed at a sufficient distance from each other.

Additionally, rotted compost is introduced into the hole, and the substrate itself is improved - it is made looser and the level of acidity normalizes.

With a small number of divisions, their temporary germination in separate pots is allowed, thus the plant is protected from freezing. If necessary, the seedlings are brought into the room.

Bulbous

In addition to Irises, the underground part of which is represented by the rhizome, other varieties of this plant are also cultivated - xyphyums, junoes, iridodictiums. The roots of all three are in the form of bulbs.

Without a transplant, the bushes feel comfortable for 3-4 years with the condition of not too active growth in breadth.

In terms of process technology, the chronology is identical to the standard one: the mother bush is divided by means of a garden fork and the segments are moved to the selected area.