Proper care of daffodils in the garden after flowering

What to do with iris after flowering: basic care rules

Irises, like many other perennials, need special care in the fall and after flowering. And although the maintenance of these plants is not overly painstaking, however, iris require a special approach. If you follow some simple rules of care after the end of the flowering period, you can avoid many troubles and provide your flower bed with blooming killer whales in the next spring-summer season. Let's consider such rules in our article.

Do I need to care for irises after flowering?

Irises are perennials and their bloom next year is directly related to how you care for them after they have faded.

The main manipulations with colors include:

  • pruning, which, however, is carried out during the entire flowering period and especially at the end of this period;
  • feeding plants and caring for the soil in which they grow;
  • maintaining the required degree of soil moisture;
  • compulsory treatment from various pests and diseases;
  • preparation for winter in the form of mulching and insulation.

An important place is occupied by pruning iris, which consists in pruning faded buds during the flowering period, which is often stretched from May to early August due to the fact that the flowers do not bloom at the same time

  • killer whales reproduce by self-seeding. If you do not cut the bud with the receptacle in time, then soon the seeds of irises will scatter throughout the garden and may germinate in the most unexpected and undesirable places;
  • the flowering period is reduced, new buds do not open so intensively, which does not contribute to maintaining the aesthetic appearance of the flower bed;
  • wilted buds can rot and cause plant disease;
  • at the end of August, faded iridescent whales become withered, therefore, if the wilted peduncles and yellowed parts of the leaves are not removed, the reproduction of pathogens can occur in these parts.

Basic rules of care

The main care for irises after flowering is to provide their roots with moisture and essential nutrients, to protect them from pests and to take care of the ground part, which must be removed in time and correctly.

Pruning

Pruning of plant buds should be carried out during the entire flowering period as individual flowers wilt. It is advisable to check your flower beds at least once every couple of weeks and remove wilted flowers in a timely manner. Such manipulations prevent the self-seeding of iris and prolong the period of their flowering.

Pruning faded buds is as follows:

use sharp scissors or pruning shears, which must be clean;
cut off the bud completely

It is important that you remove not only the withered flaccid petals, but also the green receptacle underneath. The essence of the procedure lies precisely in the removal of the ovule, in which the seeds ripen;
in extreme cases, in the absence of a pruner or scissors, you can simply pinch off the flowers gently with your fingers

Make sure your hands are clean.

The final pruning of irises takes place at the end of summer, when new flowers are no longer expected to bloom. In this case, the stems on which there were flowers are completely cut off. Moreover, you need to cut off the stems quite low - about 2-3 centimeters above the rhizome. It is best to carry out the procedure with a fairly sharp pruner or scissors, since the stems of irises are quite fleshy and strong. Complete removal of the stems is necessary because they are very susceptible to rotting.To avoid waste, iris stems can be used as compost.

After the buds and stems have been completely removed, the leaves of the iris can be left standing until they begin to turn yellow. Most often this happens by the first half of October, when they are pruned. This is also done with scissors or pruners. Some of the leaves are cut at a distance of about 13-14 centimeters from the ground, giving them the shape of a cone.

This method of foliage pruning allows not only to remove withered and yellowed parts, avoiding rotting and spreading of pests, but also to ensure the accumulation and transfer of energy to the roots of the plant for successful wintering, which becomes impossible if the entire ground part is completely removed.

It is recommended to burn the trimmed parts of the leaves, and preferably away from your site. The fact is that many insects lay their eggs on the leaves. If they are not burned, pests may spread throughout your summer cottage, and leaves left intact will cause plant diseases.

Growing daffodils at home.

Daffodils grow well at home in pots and delight with flowering from December to March

In order for them to take root well, it is important to choose bulbs that are large and without damage (holes, scratches, areas of decay). After the planting material is purchased, it must be planted in pots as early as possible.

Until then, it should be stored in a cool, dry place.


In order for the plant to take root, you need to adhere to some rules.

Planting in pots

The pot for planting is not very high, medium-sized in width. You can plant from 2 to 4 bulbs in one pot (the amount depends on the size). A clay or ceramic container is best. If the pot is chosen incorrectly, the plant will not bloom. There should be holes at the bottom of the pot to drain the water. They are necessary so that the water does not stagnate and the bulbs do not rot.

Land for planting can be purchased at any specialty store. This can be daffodil soil, universal, or you can take soil from the garden. Whatever the soil, you need to add sawdust, sand or clay to it. The earth must be crumbly. If there are lumps in it, then much less oxygen will enter the soil and this will lead to infection with the fungus.

After the pot and soil are selected, they begin planting. A drainage 3 centimeters thick is placed at the bottom of the pot and covered with earth. The bulbs are lightly pressed into the soil, the upper part of them should remain on the surface. Then the pot is placed in a dark and cool place for 3 months. After this period, the plant is transferred to the room.

In order for daffodils to bloom by December, planting must be done in September. If flowering is planned by spring, then in November or December.

Daffodils should not be placed next to other plants on the windowsill, as they contain toxic substances and they can harm home flowers.

Caring for flowers in the house

It is important to water the plant properly. The first watering is carried out immediately after planting the bulbs.

While the rooting process is in progress, it should be moderate - once every 14 days. Then watered as the earth dries into the pan. The water should be at room temperature. After the leaves turn yellow, watering must be stopped.

Top dressing of domestic daffodils is carried out 2 times: the first, when sprouts appeared; the second, when the buds were set. Nitrogen and potassium are used for feeding.

After the plant has faded, the dried flowers are cut and the leaves are left. Once they have completely faded, they are pruned and the pot is removed to a cool place. The bulbs can also be removed from the pot and wrapped in paper.

At home, the daffodil is most commonly affected by a fungus. This is due to improper watering. The plant should not be flooded. Before planting, all planting material must be treated with a fungicide.

Among the pests are ticks, nematodes and flies.To prevent the plant from becoming infected, you need to remove its wilted parts in time, loosen the soil and inject an insecticide into it.

The use of daffodils in garden design.

These flowers can be used in a variety of flower gardens. They look best in the garden as large arrays of the same type. They can be combined with goose onions, sciles, crested beetles, hyacinths, tulips, crocuses,

Daffodils are already beginning to bloom in the gardens. Planting and growing them is not a very difficult process, but in order for the flower garden to be beautiful, you need to take into account all the nuances of agricultural technology and follow the rules for caring for these fragile flowers.

Today, the species and varieties of daffodils are striking in their diversity. Some of them look completely different from each other, but they have the same cultivation features.

How to store daffodil bulbs

We figured out how to care for daffodils in a pot and in a flower bed at home. It remains to determine how to properly store the flower bulbs until the new season. The easiest way is to leave them in the ground by mulching the garden bed, but in this case, the planting material may die from severe frosts. Therefore, gardeners prefer to dig the bulbs out of the ground and store them in a special room or refrigerator.

Storage in the ground

Bulbs can be left in the ground for the winter. But they can freeze in severe frost and in the absence of snow. To prevent this from happening, the bed must be properly prepared. First of all, the soil is loosened and leveled, after which it is covered with any available mulching material. Sawdust, peat, straw, or dry leaves will do. Cover the top with a layer of mulch and leave it until spring (Figure 6).

Shelter is carried out after the beginning of the first autumn frosts. It is recommended to finally open the plants after the warm spring weather has stabilized.

Cellar storage

After digging the planting material from the main bed, the bulbs are transferred to boxes filled with a light soil mixture (for example, peat with sawdust). Such soil will help the bulbs to take root, and the low temperature will prevent them from growing (Figure 7). In the spring, after the end of the frost, they can be transplanted into the ground.

Cold storage

Household refrigerators are not suitable for long-term storage, as their temperature can lead to the germination of planting material.

However, if there are about two months left before planting, the bulbs can be stored in the vegetable drawer of the refrigerator (Figure 8). So the planting material will not have time to germinate, but will be hardened for planting.

The author of the video will tell you in more detail how to properly store the bulbs of this culture.

Daffodils are bright and delicate garden daffodils that delight the gardener's eye from year to year. This flower is able to overwinter and bloom with renewed vigor in spring. But when the daffodils have faded, what to do next?

It is also equally important to rid the site of. It is advisable to fertilize the soil well with organic matter, for example, use a lot or rotted

After fertilizing the plot, respecting the depth to the bayonet.

Did you know?
Narcissus essential oil has long been used in perfumery. Its popularity was based on its gentle and intoxicating scent. Since the introduction of synthetic and cheaper flavors, daffodil is practically not used.

Landing scheme

To plant daffodil bulbs, you need to dig holes, the depth of each of them should be three times the diameter of the bulb itself. Compost is poured into the bottom of the hole, after which the onion is placed.

The sharp tip of the bulb should always point upwards. After that, the hole is covered with earth and watered abundantly.

In the case when daffodils are planted in order to get many children, it is recommended to plant in an ordinary way, observing the distance between the holes of 15-20 cm.If the distance is less (10-12 cm), fewer children will be formed, but the bulbs will be larger.

This option is suitable for elite varieties of daffodils that are replanted every year. Also a good option for group planting of a plant is a "tight circle". So you can create a composition that looks like a beautiful blooming bouquet.

Follow-up care

Since caring for daffodils, especially at first, is very important, there are some important points to keep in mind.

The soil must be regularly moistened and loosened. As a top dressing can be used mulch (peat or) or a layer

You can also cover the area with a layer of dry foliage, this works especially well in snowless winters. In the spring, foliage is removed from the site.

Growing daffodils outdoors

For some gardeners, this flower grows "by itself", that is, it was planted once and forgotten about it. You can do that, you don't even have to choose a special place. But then the flowering of daffodils will be meager and short-lived. If placed in the shade, it will bloom for a long time, but the flowers will be smaller.

Planting daffodils in spring

You can plant daffodils in the spring, but as a last resort. before planting, the bulbs must undergo mandatory stratification within 2 months, in the refrigerator, on the lower shelf.

They need to be planted as soon as the snow melts, preferably in a place prepared in the fall with fertilizers, compost and nitrophosphate applied.

Planting follows the same principle, keep in mind that your spring daffodils will bloom later.

Daffodils - care

I forgot to write that when planting, it is advisable to mark a place so that in the spring you do not accidentally damage the shoots or plant something else there.

When the sprouts become noticeable, you need to rake off the mulch, if the flowers were covered with a layer of peat or leaves for the winter, and start feeding.

  • Spring feeding is done with the emergence of sprouts with a full complex mineral fertilizer, 30 grams per square of area.
  • The second feeding is done when the buds begin to tie, with the same fertilizer, 20 grams per square.
  • The third is done during the flowering period in order to prolong it, with the same complex.
  • The fourth is carried out after flowering with the introduction of double superphosphate, 40 grams per square and potassium sulfate, 20 grams.

Water the flowers regularly, 1-2 times a week, shed to the full depth of the roots. After watering, loosen the soil so that a crust does not form and the bulbs breathe. It is necessary to remove faded flowers in time, they not only spoil the view, but also take away strength from the roots.

Daffodils have faded, what should I do?

Take your time to cut off the leaves right away, they should wither and dry on their own.If you don't like their appearance, plant later flowers in front of them to hide the dry leaves.

Also, you do not need to immediately stop watering and loosening, because the leaves are still green, which means photosynthesis and nutrition are in progress. Extend your grooming by a couple of weeks.

When to transplant daffodils

Daffodils are dug up only when the leaves have completely turned yellow, at the end of June-July. When the flowers have already grown and occupied all the space that you assigned them, the flowers have become small, which means it's time to plant them.

Choose a new place, some can be left in the old one. Apply fertilizer immediately after digging and prepare the soil while the bulbs dry.

At the same time, you will check the state of the planting material, remove all old, dried roots, scales, leaves are also removed, you only need to leave good roots. Check the bulbs for disease.

There is no dormant period for daffodils, the bulbs do not need to be stored for a long time and cannot be overdried. Just put them in boxes and leave them in a dry ventilated room at a temperature of about + 17 degrees.

More than 2 months should not pass from the time of digging to the time of planting, otherwise the bulbs will dry out and there will be nothing to plant.

Diseases and pests

Most often, plants are exposed to diseases that are improperly looked after. Sometimes there are outbreaks of epidemics, due to which you can lose all plantings.

Fungal diseases:

  • Penicillous rot.
  • Gray rot
  • Fusarium

To avoid diseases, the bulbs must be treated with a fungicide before planting.

Viral diseases:

  • Mosaic
  • Ring spot
  • White streak
  • Yellow striped

Viruses can be brought in by insects or by yourself with shoes or garden tools. Unlike fungi, viruses are not cured, plants with the first signs of disease are destroyed.

Pests:

  • Daffodil fly
  • Slugs
  • Nematodes
  • Root mites

Any kind of insecticide is used to control insects.

Daffodil breeding methods

Bulbs

The easiest and most affordable way. A bush that has been growing in one place for more than five years forms a powerful nest, it becomes cramped for the bulbs. This is where you can propagate plants by digging out the bulbs and separating them from each other.

As I wrote above, these flowers do not have a dormant period, therefore, after slightly drying the planting material, it can be planted.

Seeds

This method also has the right to be, but you will receive only flowering six years after sowing. After harvesting, the seeds must be sown immediately, they quickly lose their germination. They are usually sown in the last decade of summer or in autumn in pots and grown at home or in a special greenhouse.

How to tell if it's time to dig up daffodils after flowering

Experienced flower growers, even during flowering, notice that plants require a mandatory transplant. There may be several reasons for this:

  1. Flowering bushes have turned into dense thickets.
  2. Cultures prevent each other from growing.
  3. The flowers have grown so much that the area of ​​the flower garden has increased significantly.
  4. The flowering period lasted only a few days.
  5. The bushes have become lower in height, and the flowers themselves have decreased in size.
  6. Some of the buds began to dry out without ever opening.
  7. During the period of active growth, yellow leaves appeared.
  8. Plants have started to hurt or pests have appeared.

All these changes only confirm the need for a transplant in the near future.

At the same time, it is very important to wait until the daffodils stop blooming and the aerial part will lose its vitality.

Indeed, when the flowering process of daffodils is completed, the bulb begins to restore the expended energy, taking away all the remaining nutrients in the greening leaves and stems. It is not recommended to disturb the plants at this time. You need to be patient a little while the cultures give numerous signals and show their readiness to transplant. Until this moment, it can take from one to two months.

Signs that daffodils are ready for transplant:

  • leaves completely change their green color to yellow;
  • the leafy part begins to fade, and the tips of the leaf plate dry and break off;
  • persistent and strong before flowering, the bush falls apart in different directions, as if it has lost its vitality.

Dividing and transplanting daffodil bulbs

Narcissus is one of those bulbous crops that do not require an annual transplant.
... They grow well in one place for at least 5-6 years, sometimes even more.

Daffodils can grow in one place for 5-6 years

The need for dividing and planting a bush arises when the crushing of flowers is clearly noticeable and the number of peduncles is reduced.
In this case, the leaf mass falls apart in different directions, forming untidy thickets.

It is necessary to transplant daffodils when there are few flowers and they are small

The work is carried out using the following technology:

The bulbs taken out of the ground are carefully shaken off the remains of the soil and laid out for drying in a well-ventilated, dry and shaded place for 2-3 days. Pre-pruned dry leaves, live roots are left. In dug out daffodils, the foliage is cut off, the roots are left

Mother bulbs are taken apart and separated

Some children separate on their own, and some have to be broken off. The break point must be sprinkled with crushed charcoal or ash to avoid infection.

All sick, weak and suspicious specimens are discarded.

Healthy daffodils are planted immediately or stored in a cool dry place until August (1.5–2 months). They are planted in holes with a depth equal to three diameters of the onion, and at a distance of at least 10-12 cm between each other. The bulb is planted to a depth equal to three diameters of the onion.

The planting site is filled with ash mixed with dry sand (1/3 cup per onion), and any mineral complex fertilizer (1 tsp per onion). After transplanting the daffodil bulb, water well

If the transplant is made no later than the beginning of September, then the daffodils can take root well before the cold weather.
Later planted plants will need to be covered with a layer of cut grass, straw, peat or dry foliage for the winter.

Late planted daffodil bulbs are best covered for the winter with a layer of dry foliage.

Video: when is it time to transplant daffodils

Competent care of faded daffodils will help plants quickly recover, gain strength, winter well and again delight their owners with delicate and fragile spring flowers.

All garden plants and shrubs require proper and quality care. The most popular flowers are daffodils. They decorate the backyard with bright sunny inflorescences in the summer. When the end of flowering comes, the daffodils have faded, many do not know what to do next.

Even in the fall, it is important to prepare them for the winter period. Preparation and processing of bulbs is important so that they do not lose their varietal properties.

After the daffodils have faded, it is necessary to take care of them.

It consists of the following stages:

  1. Do not cut foliage after flowering for 2 months. Sunlight enters the bulbs through the leaves.
  2. After 2-3 months, when the foliage is completely dry, carefully cut it off and remove it from the main bush.
  3. With the onset of autumn, it is necessary to fertilize with fertilizers that dissolve in water.
  4. Young plants are covered with a layer of humus or leaf turf on top, for the duration of winter.

Young flower bulbs should not be dug out after the growing season. It is better to dig up every 3 years so that the mother bush gives young babies. Adult bulbs of 3 years of age are dug out after the growing season in late July, early August.

After the foliage dries, the bulbs do not have a dormant period, they continue to breathe, grow and receive the necessary nutrients. The dug out planting material of daffodils also breathes, so you should not delay with a transplant for more than 2 months.

Care rules

Daffodils are winter-hardy and generally unpretentious, and this is especially appreciated. They feel good both in the sun and in shaded areas of the garden. It is better to choose an open and sunny place with good permeable soil. Fertilize - you can. Flowers will approve of compost and humus, but it is better not to use fresh manure. Such fertilizer can be used much ahead of time - at least a year before planting. It is also better not to plant daffodils in the place where other bulbous, as well as perennial flowers, were previously planted. The former, for example, include tulips and lilies, and the latter include phloxes and asters.

It is desirable to combine top dressing with watering and subsequent loosening and removal of weeds. You need to water a lot, since the plant is moisture-loving.

That's all the care of flowers from the moment of their emergence and flowering. What is the post-flowering daffodil care?

How to store daffodil bulbs at home

Many are also interested in how to store the bulbs of daffodil primroses. Daffodil tubers are laid out for several hours in the open air, but not in the sun, hot rays can cause burns. After the soil begins to crumble from the roots, they can be transferred to a well-ventilated barn, the temperature in which does not exceed 20 ° C.In such a place, planting material can be perfectly preserved. Gardeners use other storage methods:

  • in basements in spacious boxes. You can lay them in layers, but you must separate them with newspaper sheets;
  • you can hang the bulbs in a canvas (tulle or nylon) bag;
  • if there are few daffodils, then they can be planted in the ground, taking flower pots for this. Then it is boring to put the flowers in the basement for the winter, and in the spring just transfer them into the prepared holes;
  • owners of summer cottages are trying to store seed on the balcony. This method is not suitable for winter storage;
  • It is not recommended to store in the refrigerator for several reasons: the bulbs do not tolerate dampness, and if put in a tightly closed bag, they will suffocate, since the specific gas released by the tubers will accumulate.

It is impossible to store daffodils for more than 3-4 months, so in the fall, before the onset of frost, you need to have time to plant the bulbs in open ground.

Storage methods until autumn

The maximum shelf life of bulbs until spring is 1-2 months. Leaving them at home for a longer period will negatively affect the quality of flowering next year. For storage, choose a dry room where there is no bright sunny color. It must be provided with natural or artificial ventilation.

To preserve daffodil bulbs, you can use:

  • cellar or basement;
  • loggia or balcony;
  • barn;
  • veranda.

During the storage period, the temperature should change. In the first month, daffodils are stored at + 17-18 ° C, then 2-3 weeks before planting it is reduced to + 9-10 ° C. Temperature changes are due to the characteristics of the culture. If the temperature rises above + 18 ° C, the bulbs may germinate ahead of time at home.

Shallow cardboard or wooden boxes are used as storage containers. They must have good airflow. The bulbs are placed in one layer. Every week, planting material is examined and diseased or rot-damaged specimens are removed.

Storing bulbs in winter

You can use a cellar or refrigerator to keep daffodil bulbs viable and get healthy plants with beautiful flowers in your garden next season.

After the planting material has been dug up and pre-processed, it is placed in containers filled with a light free-flowing soil mixture. You can use the mixture
from sawdust and peat. In such soil, the rooting processes will be much faster. At the same time, a sufficiently low temperature will not allow daffodils to grow ahead of time.

It is not recommended to store bulbs in home refrigerators. At this temperature, they can begin to germinate. Planting material can be placed in the refrigerator only if no more than 2 months are left before disembarkation. In spring, it can be placed in the vegetable section of the refrigerator.... The bulbs will not have time to germinate in such conditions.
, however, will undergo good hardening before planting.

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