How to transplant?
As already noted, the plant tolerates transplanting relatively easily, without much stress. But if you do not meet the deadline, carry out the transplant, breaking the rules, it will definitely be a shock for the daylily
It is important to follow the instructions
- Dig a hole taking into account the diameter of the root system of the bush. The bottom of the pit must be prepared - lay a mass made of compost and soil in an even layer. You can also use rotted manure. If not, take a universal fertilizer
- Take the soil with a shovel on the outside of the rhizome of the bush, but so as not to injure the roots. So that you do not have to tear the rhizome by force, you can bring a hose to the plant, turn on a rather big pressure, direct the stream to the root and wait until it gets wet. Then the bush needs to be pulled slightly to the sides. If the bush is old, such a division is unsuccessful, but a relatively young bush can be divided with water for sure. The old bush must be divided with a knife, not forgetting to treat the cut points with a fungicidal composition.
- Hold the flower by the main stem, so carefully transfer it to a new hole prepared for transplantation. Pour a small bump of soil (in the form of a cone) at the bottom, try to pour this soil so that it is inside the rhizome. When filling the hole with earth, the bush should be vertical. Make sure that the daylily does not "leave" to the side and does not fall over. Watch this moment and the plant will not be able to develop normally.
- After the hole surface is level with the rest of the soil, try to properly compact the area. The flower bed should be watered abundantly. And for the first 3-4 weeks, actively water the "immigrants". If you forget, the ground in the new place will dry out, and the plant will be left without normal nutrition.
Daylily transplant is usually combined with its reproduction. The latter can also be done by proliferation. On the plant, you need to find a rosette of leaves, which is formed in the leaf axil. The rosette needs to be cut closer to the stem. The rosette transplant itself will take 6-8 minutes, in addition to everything, the soil will be fertilized. The grown bush will be similar to the mother bush, which means that the gardener will keep the daylily variety.
An easier way to propagate the daylily is to cut the main stem to the very base, leaving no more than 2 cm from the root collar. This will stimulate the growth of new shoots, and in order for them to grow and develop, the ground from the rhizome should be slightly pushed aside.
Another important point is that you need to cut the stem strictly horizontally, and not along an inclined one, as some gardeners mistakenly do. Ash dressing will protect young wounds from infection.
Transplanting lilies in the fall to another place
Under natural conditions, at the end of summer, the aboveground part of plants dies off and the bulbs seem to "fall asleep" for a while. Then the root system "wakes up" and begins to actively gain mass and form new bulbs. Therefore, after flowering, they usually stand for a month and then transplant lilies. The tubers have time to get stronger and are able to winter safely.
If it so happens that the transplantation of lilies in the fall is carried out at low temperatures, then it is necessary to attend to the warming of the plantings.
White lily bulbs are planted earlier than other varieties due to their short rest time
At the same time, it is important to take into account the climatic features of the region. In areas with cold winters, late flowering species should still be planted in spring.
Florists do not recommend experimenting with new unfamiliar varieties in the fall.It is not known how the bulbs will overwinter, so it is best to plant them in the spring. But their own flowers, tested by time and climate, perfectly tolerate the cold.
What varieties to plant
Plants with an average flowering period are best suited for transplanting in the fall. This rule should not be neglected.
Otherwise, when transplanting late flowering lilies (tubular and oriental hybrids), the tubers simply will not have time to take root before the onset of frosty weather.
Choosing a landing site
Lilies can be classified as unpretentious plants. They take root both in shady places and in lighted flower beds. But it should be borne in mind that the variety grown in different conditions blooms with a run in about 5-7 days.
And the height of the stems of such plants will be different. As a rule, lilies will grow 10-15 centimeters higher in the shade than in the sun. When choosing a site, it is preferable to choose places protected from strong winds, where snow will accumulate in winter.
Land preparation
Under natural conditions, plants thrive on neutral loose soils. Stagnant moisture or heavy soils can oppress plants or cause rotting of the bulbs.
When choosing a variety, it should be borne in mind that tubular varieties prefer slightly alkaline soils (you can add lime / ash to the ground). For growing LA hybrids, areas with a neutral soil composition are suitable.
The area for lilies is pre-prepared (in about 15-20 days). For this, the soil is dug to a depth of 30-40 cm.
- If the soils are heavy, peat and sand are added at the same time (about a bucket per square meter of area).
- If the soil is light, only peat can be added.
- To increase fertility, humus / compost is added (at the rate of 5-7 kg per square meter of land).
Additionally, superphosphate and potassium sulfate are poured (100 and 50 g, respectively).
Stages of transplanting lilies in the fall
Once the plants have faded, the seed pods must be carefully cut off.
- According to the advice of gardeners, the stems should be cut at an angle so that moisture does not accumulate on them. Otherwise, water through the stem will enter the bulb, which can cause rotting.
- Lilies leave healthy stems and leaves. Withered, shriveled foliage must be removed.
Sequence of work:
the lily stem is cut as close to the soil as possible;
the bulbs are dug out carefully and carefully - so as not to severely injure the roots;
the bulbs are carefully examined and cleaned - they remove damaged / dried scales;
if the bulbs do not naturally disintegrate, you must carefully separate them with a knife;
to disinfect the planting material, it is kept for 25-30 minutes in a weak solution of potassium permanganate or karbofos (1% solution);
holes are prepared for the bulbs. A small layer of sand can be poured at the bottom, because lilies do not react well to stagnant water.
To determine to what depth to dig holes, you need to take into account the variety of flowers:
- it is believed that undersized ones are buried by 10-11 cm (large bulbs) and by 6-7 cm - small ones, the aisle is made up to 20 cm;
- in medium-sized varieties, large specimens are planted to a depth of 13-15 cm, and small ones - 9-11 cm. The distance between rows is up to 25 cm;
- tall lilies are buried 15-20 cm (large bulbs) and 12-13 cm - small ones. The distance between the rows is up to 30 cm.
The bulbs are lowered into the hole, the roots are straightened, sprinkled with sand. The hole is covered with earth. The surface can be mulched with peat, sawdust. If lilies are planted deeper than required, they will take longer to germinate. But on the other hand, more children are formed in such plants.
Preparing plants for planting or transplanting
Transplanting lilies in the fall is very convenient because the plant is already dormant and you can shift the dates by choosing the right time. When to dig up lilies? After all, the condition of the bulbs also depends on what the summer was. Bulbs form later in the dry season. Therefore, experienced florists recommend digging a trial bulb.If it is dense and elastic, then you can already plant lilies. Otherwise, if the bulb is loose, it is better to delay the transplant a little.
Before digging up the lilies, the healthy green stems need to be cut at the root. If the stem is dry or sluggish, then you need to remove the bulb from the ground, then unscrew the stem from it, and then carefully examine it for diseases and rot.
When you remove the bulbous nest from the ground, most often it disintegrates itself. If small bulbs or parts of the nest do not separate themselves from the mother plant, then they are gently broken off by hand.
All dug out bulbs are carefully examined, dry, damaged, darkened scales are removed. The roots are cut to 15 cm, and the dead ones are removed completely.
Healthy bulbs can be left untreated before planting, and planting material with brown spots should be soaked in Maxim or Previkur.
Planting is carried out in dry, sunny weather, each bulb is determined in a well prepared in advance and watered. Depending on the requirements of each specific type, the planted lilies are mulched with peat or leaf humus with a layer of about 5 cm.
In the fall, bulbs-bulbs that form in the leaf sinuses of some types of lilies are also harvested. And like ordinary bulbs, they are planted in grooves with a depth of 3 cm, maintaining a distance between the bulbs of about 5 cm. Rows with baby bulbs require careful shelter for the winter.
What to do with lilies if the planting material needs to be stored until spring? This happens if the bulbs for planting were purchased in late autumn or winter. At home, planting material can be stored much better than in a store. How to store lily bulbs correctly? To do this, you can place them in a perforated plastic bag, placing them between layers of high-moor peat or sphagnum. Place such bags in the refrigerator in boxes for storing vegetables and save until planting in the spring.
Or you can plant them in any containers with holes in the bottom, filled with a mixture of garden soil, sand and peat. In the soil mixture, we make a depression of 15 cm, into which we add a layer of river sand, and then we plant an onion. Storage of containers with planted lilies should be carried out at a temperature of about 10 degrees, maintaining the necessary humidity with periodic watering.
When purchasing planting material in the fall, do not take lilies with sprouts. When planted in spring, they can still be grown, and when planted in autumn, such lilies will freeze.
Transplant by seasons
The time when to dig up lilies after flowering and when to plant in a new place depends on the situation and the variety of flowers. Late varieties reproduce slowly, their flowering ends in August-September.
After the death of the peduncles, 3 to 4 weeks must pass before they can be dug up and transferred. It is better to send such varieties to storage in the basement, and transplant in the spring.
Important! During flowering, the bulbous nest loses a lot of nutrients, is depleted, so after it you need to wait until the underground part is restored. This usually takes 1 - 1.5 months. Mid-early varieties bloom in July, finish in August
There is still time for the plants to take root in a new place, so they are transplanted in the fall.
Mid-early varieties bloom in July and finish in August. There is still time for the plants to take root in a new place, so they are replanted in the fall.
Early varieties, the flowering of which begins in early June and ends in July, can be transferred to another bed 1.5 months after cutting the peduncles and shoots.
Benefits of digging up bulbs in the fall
If a late variety grows on the site, then there will be no time for transplanting lilies in the fall - they will not have time to take root before frost. They are dug up and stored in wet sand or sawdust. During the winter period, the bulbs will have time to gain strength and will give a good growth in the spring.
The colder the region, the earlier need to be dug up and replanted lilies in the open field, so that they have time to get used to the place and the roots take root.
Late transplantation of poorly rooted plants will automatically postpone the flowering dates in spring. This can be advantageous if the spring is usually cold and there is a risk of frostbite on young seedlings.
How to transplant?
If the lilies were originally planted with their own hands, then transplanting them will not be difficult - after all, these two processes are very similar
However, despite this, there are several points when transplanting that need to be paid special attention.
In the spring
In the spring months, both bulbs dug up in the fall and those that have wintered in the ground can be transplanted. Stored bulbs are easy to plant.
They must be removed, examined well and selected healthy ones (no signs of damage, with a live bottom). For prevention, the onions can be soaked in a solution of potassium permanganate for half an hour. In this case, they must be placed in the container so that the solution covers only the lower part.
While the onions are being prepared, grooves can be made in a pre-dug flower bed.
There are quite a lot of landing schemes, while it is important not only to correctly arrange the lilies themselves, but also to organize their neighborhood with other plantings. Depending on the idea, lilies are usually planted with holes or pits, on the bottom of which a layer of sand is necessarily poured.
The depth of the grooves depends on the type of lily
10 cm is enough for undersized ones, high ones will have to be buried up to 20 cm.If the bulb is small, the depth is reduced, otherwise it simply will not break through the soil. Planting too deep can delay emergence and delay flowering, but in arid areas with sandy soil, it helps to retain moisture.
The distance between adjacent bulbs can vary from 10 to 20 cm, depending on the cultivar and flowering. It is better to leave more spacing to make it easier to care for the crop. To make the flower bed look neat, the gaps between the plants should be approximately the same.
When placing the bulbs in the recess, make sure they are upright. After that, they are covered with earth. Often, immediately during planting, pegs are installed to tie up tall varieties.
The bulbs left in the open field must be transplanted before the emergence of shoots or while they are still very small. Otherwise, it's better to wait another season. The bulbs are dug up with a clod of earth, large children are separated and examined - not all of them can remain healthy after wintering. The selected material is lowered into a prepared hole with a deepening at the same level as before extraction.
Summer
Varieties of lilies that fade in June can be planted without waiting for autumn. After the end of flowering, it is enough to wait three weeks. They are transplanted in the same way as in the spring. It is believed that some hybrids that are particularly hardy can be transplanted at any time of the year and even during flowering. If it is necessary to transfer an already large plant to a new place, you need to proceed as follows.
- Dig it out as carefully as possible, along with a lot of earth. When transferring, it is necessary to try not to damage either the bulb with roots or the aerial part.
- After transplanting, the plant must be sheltered from the sun for several days. Watering should be timely and moderate. Aids can be added to the water for better rooting.
In autumn
In the fall, it is important to choose the correct period between rains and the onset of frost. The transplant follows the already familiar scheme:
- digging, dividing the bulbous nest, selecting planting material;
- flower bed preparation;
- disembarkation.
However, this also has its own peculiarities. The more severe the winter, the deeper the holes for the bulbs are made. From above, the flower bed must be insulated. For this, it is covered with straw or foliage.However, insulation becomes an excellent breeding ground for rodents, which can damage the bulbs, so it is better to use cardboard and spruce branches.
What care is needed after planting, when the lilies bloom
No care, bulbs planted in autumn are no longer needed. The soil covered with mulch will remain moist, because the water consumption of the plant without the aboveground part is minimal. Only in preparation for winter, when the ground begins to set with a frosty crust, increase the mulch layer to 7 cm. Spruce branches and fallen leaves can be used.
Cover the planting with a thick mulch blanket for the winter.
In the spring, remove the shelter, loosen the ground and feed with nitrogen fertilizer, for example, urea - 20-30 g / m². In the first year after transplantation, lilies behave differently:
- bloom later than usual;
- do not bloom at all;
- bloom, but do not correspond to varietal qualities in shoot height and flower size.
It is recommended to remove the buds in the first year so that the bulbs gain strength for the subsequent beautiful flowering. Children in the school in the first year will give only 1-2 leaves without a stem. They will grow into real flowering lilies by 2-3 years.
