Transplanting a rose to another place in the summer

How to care for irises in the country?

The same as for other perennials: weed, feed, cover for the winter and replant. The first is always done manually. This is due to the fact that the roots of irises grow horizontally and when working with tools there is a high risk of damaging them. But the soil around them needs to be loosened from time to time.

It is clear that this must be done very carefully.

There is no need to feed the plants transplanted last year. They will have enough of the nutrients that were introduced during planting. And those that grow in the bottom place for the second or third year, additional feeding is required. The first of these should be done in early spring. To do this, it is necessary to scatter mineral fertilizers around the rhizomes.

The second feeding falls on the budding period. It is recommended to use the same mineral complex for her. The third time to apply fertilizers is supposed to be in the summer, or rather in August, when new flower buds are laid on the irises. At this time, you should use those products that consist of phosphorus and potassium.

If the plants are not planned to be transplanted this summer, then you need to think about how to care for irises after flowering... First you need to cut off all the peduncles as soon as they wilted. Then examine the leaves. If they began to turn yellow, then it is supposed to cut off these parts in order to preserve the decorative effect of the irises until autumn. Some gardeners recommend making the cut in a semicircular way, so the plant looks prettier.

Transplanting a tree: how to help a seedling

There are certain conditions under which a transplanted tree is able to completely restore the root system and start growing in a timely manner.

This is the optimal moisture and temperature of the soil, taking into account the age of the tree, with a minimum time between digging and planting, and necessarily - during the period of biological dormancy of the tree, winter sleep.

Wet soil

Scientifically speaking, the moisture content of the soil around the roots of the seedling should be 70-80%. This means that 70-80% of the air pores will be occupied by water. You can estimate soil moisture with a special device - a moisture meter. Or if there is no device, then by the old-fashioned method.

To do this, you need to take a lump of earth in your palm, squeeze it slightly and release it. If after that the lump easily crumbles, then the humidity is insufficient and ranges from 20% to 50%. If the lump does not crumble even when tossed up, the humidity reaches 70-80%. At 100% humidity, wet earth sticks to fingers in small lumps.

Soil temperature

The growth of tree roots occurs at soil temperatures from + 4 ° C to + 30 ° C. At these temperatures, new root hairs grow, the roots branch, and the juice is absorbed from the soil. At the same time, the best and fastest root growth occurs in the range from +10 to + 20 ° C.

The biological dormancy of the seedling

The biological dormancy of the tree begins with the fall of the foliage and lasts until the buds swell. At this time, there is no sap flow in the seedlings, there is no evaporation. Therefore, their wood does not lose moisture during transportation, and does not lose its supply of nutrients.

Sap flow also explains why a seedling dug out with leaves dries up quickly - it loses moisture during evaporation. Its supply of nutrients is also depleted.

As long as there are leaves on the branches, the movement of juices and vegetation continues, the shoots “ripen”. That is why the seedlings dug out before the fall leaves have many "unripe" shoots, which are sure to freeze slightly in winter.

Time between digging and planting

The shortest transplanting time increases the tree's chances of quickly and painlessly settling in a new place.This is due to the peculiarities of sap flow. The liquid inside the tree trunk moves from bottom to top - from the ground (where the salt concentration is less) into the tree (where the salt concentration is higher).

During transportation, long-term storage, wood cells lose moisture and salt. The movement of juices in such seedlings does not occur even when planted in very moist soil. The seedling dries up.

Tree age

The age indicator affects the speed and ease of survival of a seedling, an adult tree. When transplanting, some of the roots are lost. A young tree recovers its root system faster than an old one. Therefore, transplanting young seedlings up to 3 years old is preferable to older trees.

This means that for their successful survival, you will need to work hard, dig up a tree with a large lump, transport it by transport, and then spend more time on watering and subsequent care of the transplanted tree.

Further care

Caring for peony seedlings includes several agrotechnical operations:

• Watering. In autumn it is moderate, taking into account atmospheric precipitation. During the first month after the bush has been transplanted, it is watered no more than 3 times. In the spring, water procedures are carried out more often.
• Loosening, weeding, mulching. By adding a layer of mulch, growers reduce moisture evaporation and prevent weeds.
• Preparation for wintering. To insulate the roots, they are sprinkled with a layer of peat, sawdust or spruce branches 15 cm or more thick.
• Prevention. In the spring, seedlings are sprayed to protect them from insect attacks and diseases.

If you transplant peonies in the right way, then the first flowers will appear on young plants next year. Leaving them on the bushes is not worth it, so that the peonies do not expend energy and better endure the winter. In the second year, one flower is allowed to bloom. Full flowering begins in the third year.

Features of seasonal transplant

There are several options when you can divide the daylily and plant it.

Transplant in the fall

Choosing an autumn transplant, you must take into account all the nuances. You should not focus on the second half of autumn, plants may not take root before the onset of frost. Then the flowers may die in winter. September and early October are the most favorable times. If you still cannot invest in time, you can plant frost-resistant varieties. If all the recommendations are followed, the transplant of daylilies will go well, the plant will take root remarkably in the spring and will begin to grow actively.

Note! For rooting, the daylily needs at least one and a half months. Do not delay the transplant

Transplant in summer

Sometimes daylilies are transplanted in the summer, but this is rather an exception to the rule, since they bloom all summer. The procedure will severely traumatize the roots and make the plant weak. Then how to transplant a daylily in the summer?

In the daytime, it will not be possible to propagate the bush, because you cannot divide it. Work can only be carried out in the absence of the sun. It is necessary to save an earthen lump, otherwise the plant will not take root.

Bloom

Spring transplantation of bushes

Dividing the bushes in spring gives them the opportunity to bloom this year. This applies to strong plants with powerful roots. When transplanting weak bushes, do not expect rapid flowering. Working in the spring has a huge plus, because the flower has a lot of time ahead to take root. There will be a lush bloom in the summer.

Important! In the spring and summer, it is not recommended to plant daylilies during the day. If it is difficult to decide which season to choose for transplanting a daylily when it is better in spring or autumn, then it is better to choose spring

This is a great time for minimal interference with the life of the flower.

If it is difficult to decide which season to choose for transplanting a daylily when it is better in spring or autumn, then it is better to choose spring. This is a great time for minimal interference with the life of the flower.

How to transplant peonies correctly

Well-lit places, protected from drafts, are optimal for peonies.Lowlands are unsuitable for these plants - in the spring melt water stagnates there, the rest of the time - rain and damp humid air.

Transplanting peonies is preceded by the preparation of the planting pit. This should be done 2-3 weeks before the procedure, if a transplant is planned in the spring - generally last fall. The depth and diameter of the pit is 60–70 cm (with the exception of bushes after dividing, it should be shallower).

The roots of the peony are developed, but fragile enough - they can be easily damaged during the transplantation.

Any drainage material is poured onto the bottom (layer 4–5 cm thick), then the pit is half filled with humus or ready-made compost. The top layer is sod soil previously extracted from the pit, mixed with 100 g of simple superphosphate and 25 g of ferrous sulfate (or with 40-50 g of fertilizer for decorative flowering). With increased acidity of the substrate, add another 100 g of dolomite flour or ground eggshell.

A drainage layer at the bottom of the planting pit will prevent water from stagnating at the roots of the peony, thereby preventing the development of rot

To extract a peony from the soil, it is dug in with a pitchfork in a circle, stepping back from the base of the bush 30-50 cm (the older the bush, the more branched its roots), the soil in the trunk circle is carefully loosened. Then gently loosen to the sides, holding the lower part of the stems

You cannot sharply pull and pull the plant towards yourself - most of the root system will remain in the soil. An earthen lump is removed from the soil using two shovels.

To pull the peony bush out of the ground with minimal losses, it is first dug in with a pitchfork (so there is less risk of damaging the roots), then gently swing it to the sides

A peony removed from the ground is washed and the roots are examined, if necessary, cutting off dry, rotten, moldy, insect-damaged areas with a sharp disinfected knife. The sections are immediately washed with 2% copper sulfate (or a solution of any other fungicide prepared according to the instructions), sprinkled with crushed chalk, ash, or smeared with greenery. The plant is planted, letting it lie in the shade for 2-3 hours - during this time excess moisture leaves the roots, they become softer, less fragile.

In a peony extracted from the soil, you need to wash off the soil from the roots with a stream of water with a not too strong pressure and inspect them for damage

There is nothing complicated in the transplant itself. Peony roots are placed in the center of the planting pit, collecting the soil in a small mound. Then it is covered with earth and watered, spending 20-25 liters of water. Mulch the soil, shade the plant by stretching a canopy of any white covering material over the bush, and leave it alone for 2 weeks.

If the peony needs to be divided:

1. Using a sharp pruner with disinfected blades or a knife, cut it at the base into several parts (usually 2–4 divisions are obtained) so that each has 3–5 growth buds. The length of the rhizome is 8–12 cm; it must have 3–4 adventitious roots at least 5 cm long. Larger divisions should not be used, they take longer to take root.

2. Soak them for an hour in a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate or for 10-15 minutes in Fitosporin. After 2-3 hours - in any biostimulator (Epin, Heteroauxin, Zircon). Dry the plants by placing them in the shade for about an hour.

3. Plant parts of the plant in holes 20–25 cm deep. Leave the growth points on the surface, sprinkle them with humus (layer 3–5 cm).

4. Gently compact the soil around the bush with your hands (you cannot trample it down), water the plants well (10-15 liters).

5. Shorten all stems to a height of 15 cm, reducing the volume of green mass, to maintain which the bush is forced to spend energy.

Site selection and soil preparation

You need to choose a place for planting a plant wisely. It is not necessary to plant it in the shade, because today a large number of hybrids have already been bred that feel great in open areas. It is worth considering the "requirements" of each of these unique varieties.For example, hosts with golden, yellow or white leaves should be planted in areas where the sun will shine in the morning and evening. At lunchtime, when the sun is brightest, the host will need shading, otherwise the leaves will quickly fade and lose their attractiveness. Hosts with blue leaves are best planted in partial shade, because if the light is too bright, they will turn green. Abundantly flowering hosts respond normally to the sun only in the morning. For the rest of the day, it is better for them to stay in the shade.

In addition, the place should be well ventilated. However, drafts should be avoided. Sandy and loamy, as well as too swampy soils are best avoided, since the hosta will definitely not take root there. The landing site must be prepared in advance. The earth must be dug up two or three weeks before. It is worth digging up the soil to a depth of 35 centimeters, while it is imperative to add fertilizer to it.

It is best to use organic feed. They will definitely not harm the plant. It is better to give your preference to already rotted compost, rather than fresh manure. After that, you can start preparing the landing pit. The plant should feel comfortable, so it should be at least twice the diameter of the seedling. At the very bottom, it is necessary to lay a drainage layer. You can use fine gravel or broken brick. From above it is necessary to fill up the substrate, and then water everything well.

The host should be planted no earlier than an hour after that, so that the earth can be well saturated with moisture. It is installed in the center of the pit. Then all the voids must be covered with earth, and then watered again. If you plan to plant more than one bush of hosts, the distance between them should be as follows:

• for hosts with small leaves - at least 20 centimeters;
• for a plant with medium leaves - up to 30 centimeters;
• for hosts with large leaves - up to 40 centimeters.

When buying a host, you need to pay attention to its root system. She must be well developed

The length of the roots usually varies between 11-12 centimeters. In addition, it should be remembered that each sprout must necessarily have two buds.

Seat selection

Of course, the chosen location is of great importance for the correct growth and beautiful flowering of irises. When deciding on him, you need to take into account the type of plant, because one of them may love a light and dry place, while the other, on the contrary, prefers to be in the shade. When replanting "cockerels" in open ground from one place to another, you need to consider:

• ground water level;
• acidity of the soil;
• saturation of the soil with oxygen;
• the amount of sunlight that will hit the plant.

Once the location has been determined, it needs to be prepared for planting irises about 3 weeks before the process. The soil must be dug up, all weeds and pests are removed. The soil should be fertilized, you can use peat and sand.

It is advisable to put fertilizers into the soil before transplanting. The soil for irises can be fertilized:

• "Kristalon";
• "Ammophos";
• "Aquamarine";
• Azofoskom;
• "Kemir";
• "Sudarushka".

These mineral supplements contain a sufficient amount of phosphorus, potassium, magnesium, manganese, iron, copper. If you follow these guidelines for choosing a landing site, you can be confident that it will be done correctly.

How to plant irises in open ground

Irises can be planted until the end of September. Before planting irises, you should choose a suitable place for this sun-loving plant. A flower bed and a flower garden are considered ideal for iris, which are illuminated by the sun for at least 6 hours a day. A tall bed or slope with good drainage will also work. Some iris varieties can also be grown in shaded, well-ventilated areas.

The second important step after site selection is soil preparation.Soil with a pH of 6.8 (slightly acidic) is considered optimal for growing irises. If the soil is heavy, clayey and alkaline (pH 7 and above), add sulfur (at the rate of 1 kg per 10 m2). It must be applied to a depth of 10-12 cm no later than 1 year before the expected planting of irises. If the soil is acidic (pH level below 6), then lime should be added to it. The application rate depends on the specific pH level, but on average is 0.2-0.3 kg for clay, loamy and sandy soils.

Next, you should correctly position the irises on the site. The simplest and most convenient scheme is the orientation of flowers along the vertices of an isosceles triangle, at a distance of 30-50 cm from each other.

The soil also needs to be fed in order for the flower to develop faster. Loosen the layer of earth to a depth of 20 cm and add a pinch of nitrophoska and diammophoska (no more than 90 g per 1 sq. M).

After these events, you should decide on the depth of planting of irises. They should be planted in small holes located just below or at ground level. Pour a small earthen mound at the bottom of the hole, place the rhizome on it at a slight angle and straighten the roots. Direct the fan of leaves to the south so that the bush develops symmetrically. Cover the hole with earth, leaving the top of the spatula on the surface. Water the freshly planted irises with room temperature water.

Further watering should be carried out as needed. In hot and dry weather, this should be done at least 1 time per week, spending at least 5 liters of water per bush.