How to reanimate hydrangea after winter

Reasons for untimely awakening

Viticulture is a serious craft that requires a range of skills and in-depth knowledge. Grapes often start to cause problems for beginners in the cultivation of crops from the very beginning of spring. At this time, many, without waiting for the plant to begin to bud, begin to panic and look for a way to still wake up the grapes.

Grapes buds

Unfortunately, practice shows that the situation when the bud does not want to bloom is by no means uncommon. The reasons for this problem are not always obvious, especially if everything necessary for the culture to survive the long winter period has been done.

Of course, the reason that the grape variety could not wake up may lie in an excessively harsh winter, but this is unlikely to reassure anyone. In addition, such an explanation is unlikely to be suitable for frost-resistant varieties that can overwinter in any frost and for plants carefully sheltered during the cold season.

Note! There are only two reasons why grapes can dry out: mistakes made by the grower in the preparation process in order to winter successfully, or negative conditions. The long-term practice of viticulture and horticulture clearly demonstrates that sharp temperature drops negatively affect any crops, including winter-hardy ones. Cold torrential rains in the spring can also contribute to the fact that the seedling will not be in a hurry to wake up.

Cold torrential rains in the spring can also contribute to the fact that the seedling will not be in a hurry to wake up.

The long-term practice of viticulture and horticulture clearly demonstrates that sharp temperature drops negatively affect any crops, including winter-hardy ones. Cold rain showers in spring can also help keep the seedling slow to wake up.

If we talk about the human factor, the incorrect cropping of the eyes (for example, they are cut too short) can cause the plant to dry out.

Cupping grapes

In most cases, the need to wonder why the grapes do not wake up, what to do, does not arise with proper plant care.

When to open grapes

There is no specific time frame for when grapes should be opened after winter. It all depends on the climate of the region and the ambient temperature. The indicator of the amount of precipitation is also important. If in spring it often rains or rains with snow, and at night the temperature is still below freezing, then it is better to postpone the work until a little later.

With heavy precipitation, the soil is saturated with moisture, which lingers for a long time in the area of ​​the root system. If you open the culture ahead of time, then the low temperature can lead to freezing of the roots, which often leads to the death of the plant. Late opening can also reduce yields as leads to:

• decay of the kidneys;
• the development of diseases;
• improper bush formation;
• breaking off the vine.

The vine and buds, which are under the covering material for a long time, do not receive enough sunlight, as a result of which the process of photosynthesis does not occur, and the chlorophyll pigment is not produced.

After opening, such shoots have a faint, pale appearance. They are also called leaded - grown without access to light. They are extremely sensitive to ultraviolet rays and, with a sharp opening, such a vine can get sunburn, which, with a certain degree of probability, will lead to the death of the shoot. Therefore, here you need to find a middle ground.Below we offer average terms depending on the region.

In Siberia

Only the experience of local gardeners will help to more accurately determine the start date of work in a particular region. This is especially true of risky farming zones, which include the Siberian region. Experience shows that in Siberia, for example, in:

• Novosibirsk;
• Tomsk;
• Omsk;
• Altai Territory.

Depending on weather conditions, works can be carried out from late April to mid-May. And with late snowmelt or high humidity, they can be transferred to early June.

In the Moscow region

In Moscow and in the Moscow region, work on the disclosure of culture begins in mid-April, with the preservation of night frosts - at the end of April. As a rule, by the beginning of May, all work should have already been completed.

In the Volga region

In the regions of the Volga region, which include:

• Volgograd;
• Ulyanovsk;
• Samara;
• Saratov, etc.

Gardening work also begins in mid-April and lasts until early May. In more eastern regions, for example, in the Republic of Bashkiria, the city of Orenburg, as well as in the southern Urals, spring begins a week later.

In central Russia

The middle lane includes vast territories:

• Moscow and the region;
• Leningrad region;
• Rostov and Rostov region;
• Voronezh region, Belgorod and the rest of the Chernozem region.

The territories are vast and therefore it is necessary to decide when to open grapes in the spring in the middle lane based on weather conditions. Usually, work begins in mid-April, and by mid-May, as a rule, they are already completed.

In the Far East

The Far East is also a vast territory. It is recommended to start lifting the covering material there from mid-April. With heavy precipitation and low temperatures, the latest date when all work should be completed is the end of May.

On South

In the southern regions of Russia, such as the Kuban, as well as Kazakhstan, up to Almaty, and the Crimea, the winter period ends much earlier. In a warm climate, spring work in the garden begins already from the twenties of March and by the end of April all manipulations related to the opening of grapes should have already been completed.

Belarus and Ukraine

Winters are quite warm in Belarus and Ukraine. But the difficulty of growing grapes in these regions lies in the large amount of snow cover, which is slowly melting. Unpredictable night frosts are also a threat, where, with a hasty disclosure of culture, frost can destroy all plantings in one night.

Therefore, in the regions of Kharkov, Kiev and Minsk, it is recommended to maintain a pause of one week, even if the ambient temperature allows you to start work. Usually, work on the opening of grapes there is carried out from mid-April to mid-May.

Kaliningrad

In the westernmost region of Russia, Kaliningrad, gardening can start from the end of March and continue until the end of April. A big problem for winegrowers in this region is high humidity and temperature fluctuations.

Gardeners should rely on current weather conditions. With early opening and freezing temperatures, grape shoots can freeze.

What to do?

Having found out the reason why clematis does not grow in spring, you need to eliminate it as soon as possible. If you are in doubt, then it is better to follow some rules.

• Take care of the plant as before. Regular watering and feeding should not be canceled, even if flowers and leaves have died. After all, the roots of clematis are very tenacious, only underground parasites and waterlogged soil can destroy them.
• Fertilize. To restore and awaken the plant, feed it with various fertilizers: horse manure, nitrogen fertilizers, special complexes containing potassium, phosphorus and calcium, mineral fertilizers, humus. And you also need to mulch the soil.
• Treat against diseases and parasites. Even if you have not noticed that the plant is sick, it is necessary to carry out prevention. Spray with Bordeaux mixture or copper sulfate, foundation.
• Do not touch the plant. If you doubt that clematis is alive, you still should not interfere with its root system: transplant or loosen it. It is better to leave the plant alone, and, perhaps, it will wake up (there were cases when clematis did not germinate until 3 years). And also you do not need to plant another plant in its place, as it may also die.
• Cover. To preserve the roots, it is imperative to make a shelter, even if clematis did not rise in the spring.

Don't be discouraged if clematis doesn't emerge in the spring, provide the plant with proper care and be patient. And then this wonderful plant will delight you with its beauty.

What to do if clematis does not bloom well? You will find out the answer further.

How to transplant clematis to another place?

Transplanting clematis to a new place is complicated by the fact that the plant has a rather powerful root system, and the climbing shoots have to be cut off. Transplanting is best done in spring (late April - early May) or late summer. If spring is not in a hurry to come, and the soil does not warm up until May, then the “resettlement” should be postponed until August.

The clematis bush must be dug to the depth of a shovel bayonet, get the plant along with an earthen lump, then shake off the soil, spread the roots and use a sharp knife to divide it into parts consisting of 4-6 stems. For each delenka, the roots that are not attached to the root collar should be removed and too long should be shortened. When planting, the separated clematis need to be slightly deepened and covered with soil or a mound should be made around the plant.

How to properly care for clematis?

Clematis loves light, grows well in a sheltered place from the wind and cannot tolerate heavy soils with a high level of acidity. In addition, the plant needs good drainage, otherwise the roots can rot.

The main care for clematis is reduced to regular (at least 1 time per week, and in the heat - 2-3 times) and sufficiently abundant watering, loosening the soil, removing weeds and fertilizing with organic fertilizers 1-2 times a month (starting from the second year) ... To retain moisture in the soil and curb the growth of weeds, it is recommended to mulch clematis with humus or moss.

During prolonged rains, the lower parts of the vines should be powdered with wood ash. This prevents the shoots from wilting. It is recommended to plant calendula at the base of the plant. These yellow-orange flowers will protect clematis from nematodes.

Adult plants themselves climb the fence, gazebo, pergola, walls of buildings. And for young specimens, you need to build a support. And clematis also need proper pruning.

Clematis did not wake up after winter: for what reasons and what to do?

Clematis is a climbing perennial plant in the Buttercup family. Clematis has become widespread due to its large, beautiful flowers with a pleasant sweetish aroma. Today, there are many varieties of this plant: from small-flowered clematis straight to the Andromeda variety with large bright flowers. It is known that clematis is a whimsical plant, it requires careful care.

Therefore, their owners often have difficulties. One of the most common problems is that clematis did not wake up after winter. Questions arise as to what to do and how to revive your favorite plant.

Sometimes it is not worth worrying at all that clematis did not sprout in the spring. Experienced gardeners say that this is the normal state of this plant, clematis can "sit in the ground" even for a year.

But you still need to play it safe, because, perhaps, there are some serious reasons for prolonged sleep.

Therefore, it is important to find out the true reason why it is not possible to wake up the plant so that it does not die. Most often it can suffer due to landing errors.

However, there are other possible factors as well.

Improper care

Improper care of the plant may well cause a delay in awakening, because if clematis does not accumulate enough strength during the year, then it will not be able to wake up in time, and may even die altogether.

Clematis requires proper care, it includes proper watering and pruning, as well as feeding and fertilizing.

Watering. Clematis needs abundant watering, but at the same time does not tolerate waterlogging. Being in waterlogged soil for a long time, it can disappear. Water it every 5-10 days until the ground becomes slightly damp. You can also do drip irrigation.

Pruning. In order for clematis to form and regenerate correctly, you need to cut off weak and dried (yellowed) shoots, as well as several large secondary stems in order to stimulate the growth of other shoots. In addition, this plant must be pruned for the winter, leaving stems up to 40 cm in height (pruning rules differ for some varieties).

Fertilizer

Very often the land turns out to be depleted, therefore it is important to carry out regular fertilizing with mineral fertilizers, humus, horse manure, chicken dung, ash, nitrogen and special fertilizers for this plant, as well as mulching

If you do not carry out timely processing of the plant, then parasites can start that can destroy clematis. For example, mealy worm, aphid, bear, scale insect, slugs (snails), spider mite. Even a mole can do harm. Leaves and stems are most often affected, but if the root is damaged, it will be more difficult to revive the plant.

Diseases of clematis are no less dangerous than parasites. But to cure a plant is much more difficult. Gray mold, rust, necrosis, septoria or wilt are diseases that can cause serious harm. Therefore, you should not ignore them: if you do not start treatment on time, you will have to completely destroy the plant so that the disease does not spread.

Bad hiding place

In order for clematis to survive the winter safely and wake up on time, you need the right shelter for the plant: it does not tolerate temperatures less than -15 ° C. You need to insulate the roots, since the leaves and flowers are frost-resistant. First, you need to treat the root collar from parasites and sprinkle it with sand and peat. The shelter itself can be made of spruce branches, polyethylene or roofing (hard waterproof cardboard).

It is also important to know how to properly release clematis from the shelter. This should be done gradually, starting at the end of April, so that the plant does not suffer from frost.

Inappropriate place

Clematis is a light-loving plant, so you need to squeeze it from the south side of the house, where the sun shines most of the day. A plant that lacks light will be weak, and of course it will be late to wake up. In addition, you cannot plant a plant under the very house, as the roots will rot due to excess moisture. Clematis should not be exposed to strong winds, otherwise it will simply break (for protection, hedges, trellises, along which the plant will curl) should be used.

Bad ground

The ideal soil for clematis is loam, loose and moderately moist soil. However, such soil is rare, therefore, the earthen mixture must be made independently before planting. Would need:

If the soil is waterlogged, then you need to take care of drainage in the form of stones, broken brick, expanded clay.

What to do if the rose did not wake up

Leaves of a rose in a hole - what to do with the problem

Gardeners often do not know what to do if roses do not wake up after winter. During this period, the roots and buds of the plant suffer from lack of air, they can rebuke. The bushes move to the stage of active growth, but may die due to a stop in the development of the root system. It is this reason that begs the question of how the rose root can be revived.

Why is this happening, how to wake up

Grafted roses can hardly revive after a dormant period. In March, buds begin to swell on them. The bushes are getting ready to grow.But they do not have enough sun, lighting. In addition, the root system freezes in the soil. For this reason, plants need to be awakened. To do this, you should:

1. Organize ventilation by digging out the shelter and removing the plastic wrap from opposite sides.
2. Pierce the material with a knife so that air penetrates under the shelter from above.
3. When the air temperature reaches +8 degrees, the roses must be completely released.
4. Protect from direct sunlight.
5. Drizzle with warm water.
6. Loosen the soil.
7. Before bud break, spray the plants with a 3% solution of ferrous sulfate. If the buds are full, use a 1% solution of copper sulfate.

Evergreens have icy legs

Evergreens, in which the crown is in the sun, and "legs" in the shade of shrubs or buildings, are at risk. It turns out that at the top all life processes are running, and the legs are still in the ice and cannot supply power to the branches.

What to do?

To help, I water the tree trunks with warm water (slightly warmer than room temperature), this activates root growth and starts the feeding process. If the conifers are still burnt, I cut off all the brown needles with a pruner and immediately spray them with an immunostimulant. I carry out the treatment three times with a clear interval of 10 days ("Zircon" - "Epin-Extra" - "Zircon").

IMPORTANT! THE CROWN OF A BONE AND ALL KINDS OF FIRS (THEY ARE THE MOST GENTLE) CAN BE KEEPED IN THE SHADOW UNDER THE BAG UNTIL THE MIDDLE OF MAY, UNTIL THERE IS NATURAL SHADOW FROM THE TREE STANDING NEARBY. THE BAG IS REMOVED IN RAINY WEATHER

How to restore a flower in spring

In the spring, hydrangeas need maximum attention so that the shrub wakes up and begins to develop. First, you need to remove the shelter and clean the trunk circle from the mulch, which served as a heater. Inspect bark and shoots. Right now the bush needs pruning, which stimulates its growth and development of branches. The procedure can be carried out as early as March, but it is better to wait until the weather returns to normal. After all, sometimes even in April, frosts can come at night.

To properly prune a shrub, you must:

1. Carry out pruning of damaged branches.
2. Remove branches that are frozen.
3. Cut off thin shoots.
4. Pruning branches that are one year old to 4 buds.

In addition, you should:

• feed the plant;
• moisturize;
• to treat diseases and pests.

The main direction during this period is the emergence of buds, the formation of new shoots and foliage. For the process to take place intensively, nitrogen is needed. Potassium sulfate and urea mixture are better suited. Fertilizer preparation is simple: you need to take 30 g of each product and dissolve in 10 liters of water. Dosage - 6 liters per bush. You can also take 1 liter of slurry and dilute it in 10 liters of water. Drizzle with the solution until completely absorbed.

Watering hydrangeas should be regular, you need to make sure that the soil is always moist, but not wet. It is also necessary to carry out preventive treatment against diseases and pests by treating the shrub with Bordeaux liquid, copper oxychloride, copper sulfate or other fungicidal preparations. In caring for a hydrangea, the main thing is to do everything on time and follow all the recommendations. This also applies to preparation for winter. As a result of properly pruning, regular watering, warming and timely feeding, the shrub will be healthy, which means it will delight you with fast growth and long beautiful flowering.

Reasons why a rose turns black after wintering

The reasons for deciding how to reanimate rose bushes with blackened shoots often lie in the wrong organization of care. If it is wrong to prepare plants for wintering in the fall, they can darken and die.

Why hydrangea leaves dry around the edges - what to do and how to revive flowers

If, on the eve of cold weather, the bushes were covered with a special material, then with the onset of spring it is important to remove it in a timely manner. This can be done only after the threat of frost has passed.

Note! In the summer months, roses also sometimes have to be covered. It is a necessary measure of protection from direct sunlight and decay.

Marsonina

This is one of the most harmful diseases of indoor and horticultural crops, which does not respond to treatment for a long time. Its other name is black spot. It is provoked by the fungus Marssonina rosae and manifests itself on leaf plates and shoots. They acquire first purplish-white spots and then black. The foliage becomes gray-brown and falls off. Weak plants wither away from marsonina and hardly bloom, do not tolerate wintering well.

It is difficult to avoid the appearance of fungus on roses, and it is not difficult to strengthen the immunity of plants. This helps them to resist the causative agent of the disease. It lives in alkaline soil, old fallen leaves, and is brought by wind and precipitation.

Factors that contribute to the spread of the fungus and must be eliminated are:

• high humidity;
• damp and warm weather;
• a sharp change in humidity and drought;
• excessive watering;
• lack of lighting.

Powdery mildew

Powdery mildew is a fungal disease. Spores of the pathogen Sphaeroteca pannosa live in the soil for decades and are activated under favorable conditions:

• high humidity;
• heat;
• excess nitrogenous substances in the soil.

Roses are often infested with powdery mildew when the branches thicken. Young shoots and petioles are the first to suffer. They are covered with a white coating. When the spores mature, drops of fluid are released and ulcers develop. The leaves turn yellow, the buds become smaller and stop blooming.

Over time, the stems can become bare, covered with bloom.

Factors that provoke a fungal infection:

• rainy weather;
• high humidity;
• sharp temperature drops;
• excess nitrogen content in the soil;
• deficiency of minerals.

Infectious burn

Caused by spores of fungi, often develops with the onset of spring after the roses are freed from shelters. It occurs mainly due to dampness, which is installed under the covering materials, especially at freezing temperatures.

If the apple tree dries up in spring or June

If the apple tree dries up in the spring, what to do to save it, the gardener can decide only after determining the cause of the drying out of the branches, tops, and leaves of the trunk. Let us examine in detail each of these cases.

Why do apple tree branches dry

The main reasons for the drying of branches in an apple tree are:

• waterlogging of the near-trunk circle with groundwater;
• excessive accumulation of water from melting snow;
• lack of nutrition.

Effects

• Excess moisture impedes the flow of air to the root hairs, which provide the entire tree with nutrients;
• From a lack of nutrition, the branches of the apple tree begin to dry out gradually.

The apple tree dries up in spring

Drying of the top of the apple tree occurs due to reasons such as:

• High groundwater table;
• Flooding of the trunk circle and root system with melt water in spring during a sharp warming;
• Lack of nutrition (nitrogen, phosphorus or potassium starvation).

Effects

• Waterlogging of the soil leads to decay and partial death of the root system, which leads to dry tops.
• Due to the insufficient amount of some nutrients (nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium), the plant shows signs of starvation. The tops begin to dry out. For example, if the top of a young apple tree is almost half dry, then it does not have enough nutrition for growth.

Leaves dry

On a plant with a damaged root, not only the branch, the top, but also the leaf becomes dry and lifeless.

But the main reasons for the drying of foliage are:

• Scab - the leaves are covered with an oily bloom, brown, gradually growing spots appear;
• Powdery mildew - the leaves first turn a dirty gray color, then dark brown;
• Rust - bright brown spots with black dots appear on the leaf plate;
• Black cancer - the leaves become covered with black spots, black sores and rot appear on the branches and bark of the trunk.This insidious disease can destroy all parts of the tree in a short time. Often this infection becomes the reason why apple trees die on the site with good care.
• Lack of nutrients: potassium, zinc, magnesium, calcium.

Effects

• Lack or absence of minerals;
• Fungal diseases (powdery mildew, black cancer or black fungus);
• The presence of pests (aphids, ants, ticks).

Effects

During the flowering period, the plant needs enhanced nutrition. But if any separate nutrient (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) is not contained in the soil, then the annoying fall of flowers and drying of the buds begin. Flower buds heavily affected by diseases or pests may not bloom at all. All this will lead to the fact that the future harvest will be in jeopardy.

• If a young twig is covered with aphids (it is good enough to look closely), then the flowers, not having time to bloom, dry up.
• Black cancer is an insidious disease. He destroys all parts of the tree. The petals turn brown, the pistil and stamens turn black.
• Dead central trunk

• Proximity to groundwater;
• Accumulation of surface waters;
• Complete freezing of roots in winter;
• Bacterial cancer (growths, seals on the roots);
• Insufficient insulation of the trunk for the winter.

Effects

Waterlogging of the soil in the near-trunk circle has a detrimental effect on the roots. The root system infected with bacterial cancer also does not survive. Without a root, the main trunk dies, the tree is almost impossible to save.

If the trunk of the apple tree is not properly insulated for the winter, cracks may appear in severe frosts. The capillaries of the trunk and the fibers of the bark die.

All kidneys have dried up

• The presence of a disease (powdery mildew);
• Exposure to winter and spring frosts;

Effects

If the buds damaged by powdery mildew are not treated in time, they may die, and the tree will not bear fruit.

Both in winter and in spring, the kidneys can suffer from frost. How to reanimate an apple tree if all the buds have dried up will be described below.

Half of the apple tree is withered

Effects

Due to the partial death of the roots as a result of freezing, soaking, damage by rodents, part of the apple tree, sometimes half, dries up.

The apple tree has dried up, and a new sprout has emerged from the root

When a tree cannot be saved, it dries up. But even in this case, the apple tree can be reanimated if a small root still survived in the ground, from where a small shoot can crawl out. But a real fruit-bearing tree from this game will not work - the fruits will be small, tasteless, and the branches are strewn with thorns. In order to get a cultivated tree for the wild, you need to plant part of the cultivar - a shield with a bud, a stalk.

The apple tree has dried up, and a new sprout has emerged from the root

Thus, each of the above reasons can be the answer, for example, because of what and why apple trees die this year on the site.

Clematis did not wake up after winter: for what reasons and what to do?

How to wake up clematis?

Raise your hand, who still hasn't woken up with clematis! In the forum, a question has already been asked the opposite of this - who clematis woke up with? All responded positively. I said nothing, because out of my four, only one got out. A month has passed in the hopes that the others are about to appear, but alas, hibernation continues. Dear clematis scholars, tell me how you can wake up sleepiness? and should I do it? what causes hibernation? I ask all these questions on the forum because I am not the only one with such a problem.

ira, my clematis slept for 2 years. I woke up last year. like that.

And I have the worst. Clematis only just "climbed", just went into life, as the workers carrying out the work simply trampled him into clay. I didn't even cry, but groaned when I saw it. Do you think it will go away?

kolga, yours should come to life.

ira, if your clematis are asleep after such a warm winter, then this is not a very good sign for anyone.

Most likely you have it this spring. And he can lock it permanently: ((.

Try to gently dig it out to the beginning of the roots - only very carefully. If the roots at the top of the clematis look alive, it will most likely come off. It is quite possible that live buds will be found on the buried parts of the shoots.

Fill it back with humus.

As for the unawakened clematis, it all depends on their age. If they grow for 2-3 years, and have grown well, then it is worth digging up a little and checking whether it is alive or not. Maybe there are dormant buds, but very deep and so far there is not enough strength to break through. Sometimes, having dug out, you can see the kidney - do not close it tightly, just cover it a little bit and cover it with half a plastic bottle and wait quietly. If the fathom is young, it was planted only last year and was of the same age. That can be unearthed, but there is a chance that he died. More like a castle .. It's a pity .. But adult bushes usually do not die. And to the question of clipped or broken shoots - don't worry, you must drink more, only it takes longer and each time the bush gets weaker and weaker, and at some point there may not be any sleeping buds left ..

I, too, did not wake up one clematis. Maybe it makes sense to treat it with a growth stimulant, but I don't know which one. Maybe someone has such experience.

If he's dead, then no amount of stimulants will help. First, you need to determine whether it makes sense to do something ..

oxana, I dug it out and examined it at the beginning of June, the roots are alive and there were even several tiny sprouts. This clematis has been growing with us for a very long time, more than 13 years for sure, maybe it should be divided for a long time. All planted a year and two years ago got out very early.

Oksana, thanks for the advice. Clematis are young, wintered two winters, incl. that cold one. I looked at the roots - they are alive. Now I will try to find the kidneys, close them with a bottle and hope.

ohana, thanks for the answer. Of course I dug. The roots are alive, some have buds, some do not. Therefore, my question was not about saving clematas, but about stimulating the awakening of the kidneys. Actually, this is my first time, it started last year. Two bloomed last year, one did not bloom, but it increased a good mass, the fourth was planted last year, it grew slowly all summer. Alone, he has been sleeping since last year. I cooked the pits as usual for clematis. The material is Polish. It's great about the bottle, I wouldn't have thought of it myself.

My clematis woke up two weeks ago! I didn’t even want to see them! Sprayed with epin on the dry remains of last year's vines, almost every weekend. I didn’t dig up the roots, I was afraid to damage the kidneys, but nevertheless I “pulled” them into the light

Last year, one of the clematis woke up in July. There were no consequences.

Dima, what does it mean - there were no consequences :))

This means that this year came out of the ground in May and is growing as if nothing had happened, like last year after such a late awakening.

oxana, but tell me how best to take care of small clematis? A year ago I bought three pieces of one-year-old, two in the spring had to be transplanted, tk. started renovating the house, and they sat close. When transplanting, all the earth crumbled from the roots. Now the one that was not transplanted is already driving a decent stem, and the transplanted ones sit and do not grow. I'm afraid of that in winter. What is the best thing to do so that their births begin to grow?

How to properly cover clematis for the winter?

Clematis are usually sheltered in October, when the air temperature drops to –3 ° C. The main task is not to protect the plants from frost, but to protect them from icing, high humidity and wind. Therefore, too tight shelter is useless.

It is important to ensure that the clematis do not come out in the spring.

Sawdust is not suitable for this, as they can get wet, and thaw slowly in spring. It is better to use dry leaves, spruce branches or brushwood.In this case, the covering material must be laid on rigid frames made of wooden boxes, boards or from the remnants of pruned vines.

First, clematis are sprinkled with dry leaves (with a layer of 5-7 cm) or covered with spruce branches, then a wooden box is placed on top, a waterproof material (for example, plastic wrap) is placed on it and sprinkled with earth or peat with a layer of 25 cm.

For several nearby bushes, you can organize a common shelter of wooden shields (boxes), under which bricks are placed. From above, the box is covered with roofing material or a thick film and the edges are pressed with bricks so that the wind does not blow away the structure.

In the spring, the shelter is gradually removed and at the same time they make sure that return frosts do not damage the plants. In a cold spring, it is better not to rush with this. To prevent clematis from getting out, you first need to make holes in the structure, but only when warm weather is established, remove it completely.

Don't be discouraged if your clematis is affected by frost. Within 2-3 years, this plant can sprout new shoots from the root collar and recover. Next year, be more careful when caring for clematis, provide it with a comfortable winter - and in a couple of years the plant will again delight you with abundant flowering.

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