Erythronium: how to grow a "dog fang" on your site

Conditions for growing indoor kandyk

This bulbous plant does not quite look like its garden counterparts. In the rooms, the kandyku will need brighter lighting and more moderate temperatures. But otherwise, growing kandyk is not at all difficult. Due to the fact that the cool period of preparation for flowering coincides with the end of autumn and the beginning of winter, it will not be difficult to create a suitable environment for the bulbous.

Lighting and placement

Despite the status of a shade-loving primrose, the kandyks need completely different conditions in the rooms than in the garden. Here it is better to replace the shadow or partial shade with good, but diffused lighting.

Containers with planted kandyk bulbs are kept in shade before being transferred to heat and light. From August-September to December, for 3–4 months, they should be in shade. During the period of active growth and flowering, light, protected from direct rays, but not semi-shady locations are selected for the kandyk. This bulbous plant blooms best on windowsills or not far from windows.

For kandyk, east and west orientation windows are preferable. Touching plants can be used as accents in seasonal interiors and small live bouquets.

Temperature control and ventilation

For kandyk, it is not necessary to observe very strictly the alternation of warm and cold periods in order to achieve flowering. After planting the plants for its rooting for 6-8 weeks, the kandyk is kept at normal temperatures, and then transferred to any frost-free cool room (with a temperature of 2 to 12 degrees).

At the cool stage, the plant is kept until December, after which it is transferred to any living room with an air temperature of more than 18 degrees. Normal room temperatures are quite suitable for kandyks, but the more restrained the temperatures, the longer the flowers of this plant will hold out.

Siberian Kandyk (Erythronium sibiricum). zastavkin

Reproduction

There are 2 ways to propagate kandyk - by separating daughter bulbs and sowing seeds.

8.1 Separation of daughter bulbs

Since during each year 1 - 2 small daughter bulbs are formed near the mother, over time the bushes become cramped and it is worth planting them and dividing them into several parts. Depending on the timing of flowering, this procedure is carried out in different summer months - when the buds are already completely fading, and the leaf blades begin to die off. Do not delay the transplant, because when the entire ground part dies off, it will be problematic to find the bulbs in the ground.

Plants are dug up, cleaned of soil, broken by hands and examined for diseases and pests. If a wound surface appears in the process of dividing, sprinkle it with coal powder. If there are signs of rot, then the affected areas are cut to healthy tissue with a knife and also sprinkled with wood ash or coal.

Kandyk bulbs are not adapted for long-term storage - they quickly lose moisture, therefore, after dividing and processing them, they should be immediately planted in the ground - adults, as described above, and small ones - separately, to a depth equal to 2 heights of the bulbs. If planting cannot be carried out immediately, then the planting material is stored in small wooden boxes with moistened river sand or peat.

8.2 Growing from seeds

For reproduction, you can use your own collected seeds. A fine, dry and warm day is selected for collection. The seed pods are separated from the plants when they are almost ripe (approximately in June) - the fully ripe pods open on their own and throw the seeds into the soil. The signal to collect the seed pods will be the yellowing of their walls - then they will begin to dry.For ripening, the boxes are brought into a warm and well-ventilated room. In order for the planting material not to disappear, you can also pre-close the immature boxes with gauze.

A small area is prepared for sowing - weeds are carefully removed and the earth is dug up. Sowing seeds in open ground is carried out in the second half of August, in grooves about 3 cm deep. About 10 cm of free space is left between the grooves. Since the seeds are large enough, it is easy to distribute them evenly along the grooves, keeping the distance between the plants about 5 cm. The grooves are added dropwise and watered abundantly with warm water. Ants love to taste the planting of kandyk - such areas should be protected from the invasion of harmful insects.

When sowing podzimnym kandyk seeds undergo a cool stratification in a natural way. You can also try spring sowing of seeds, but they will have to be stratified within 2 - 3 months in the refrigerator - in the vegetable compartment. Previously, the seeds are sprinkled with wet river sand or peat and placed in a plastic bag.

If the winters in the region are severe and there is little snow, then the crops before the onset of frost should be covered with non-woven material on top. The first small shoots will appear in the spring as soon as the ground thaws. In the first 4 - 5 years of life, it is advisable not to transplant the kandyk from place to place - you need to give him the opportunity to develop independently. A transplant at this time can lead to the death of the flower, since the bulbs in young bushes are very fragile.

In the early years, the plants will not form buds - all their strength will be spent on the development of the bulb. In flowers of the first year of life, its diameter will be about 4 cm, in the second year, the diameter of the bulb can already reach 7 cm. Also, plants of the second year of life form small true leaf blades of a solid green color. In the third year, the bulb grows up to 8 cm in diameter and goes into the ground to a depth of 7 - 10 cm., and a characteristic pattern appears on the leaves. In the fourth and fifth years of life, subject to agricultural technology, it will be possible to see the first buds on plants obtained from seeds.

Botanical description of erythronium pagoda

A perennial from the Liliaceae family (lat.Liliaceae) kandyk (lat.Erythronium) is often called erythronium. The underground part is a bulb. All 29 species are early spring ephemeroids (after the flowers wither, the aerial part dries up).

Kandyk Pagoda (Tuolumni)

Briefly about the history of appearance

Kandyk means “dog's tooth” (translated from Turkic), and erythronium is translated from ancient Greek as “red”. Erythronium pagoda (Pagoda), aka Tuolumni (lat.Erythronium tuolumnense) is just a species of kandyk that grows in the European, North American and Japanese mountains, and in the Russian Federation - from the Caucasus to Siberia.

Note! Garden varieties and hybrids are obtained from natural forms and are characterized by large size and showiness of flowers, have high winter hardiness. For example, erythronium White Beauty kandyk is very popular.

Its flowers are large and white.

Plant features

Kandyk flowers bloom in early spring (in the last decade of March). The flowers have a lot in common with lilies, their corollas of 6 monochromatic or multi-colored petals. Each bulb is capable of producing 1 or more peduncles ending in a single bud. The color of the kandyk is varied: yellow, purple, white, pink, etc.

The height of most varieties of erythronium does not exceed 50 cm. The underground part is a bulb that, after the snow melts, expels several large fleshy leaves of a monochromatic or variegated color, resembling the foliage of tulips or lilies of the valley.

Beneficial features

Where certain types of erythronium grow, the local population often uses the bulbs for food.The plant is often included in the composition of traditional medicine recipes for worms, intestinal colic, and in some areas it is used as an aphrodisiac, anesthetic, disinfectant and even an antibiotic.

Several varieties

On the basis of the culture, up to 20 varieties were bred. Among the most common are the following:

1. White king (Alba regem). The variety is considered early. The flowering period lasts from mid to late April. The central part of the white flowers is colored lemon. The surface of the flower petals is decorated with small red dots. At the end of flowering, they take the form of a turban. The leaves of this variety are colored bright green.
2. White fang (White fang). The plant blooms from 20 to 30 April. Its white flowers have a yellow center. The surface of the flower petals is covered with yellow dots. Peduncle length reaches 6 cm. Leaves and peduncle are colored dark green.
3. Olga (Olga). The culture of this variety blooms until mid-May. The flowers are colored lilac-orange with a white border. Brown-green leaf blades are decorated with a white border.

Planting erythronium in the open field

When to plant erythronium in the ground

Kandyks, which bloom in early April, are best grown in partial shade on the northern side of the garden, under the lacy crowns of trees and bushes. Since the flowering of erythronium begins even before leaves appear on trees and shrubs, there will be enough light for the plant at the beginning of active growth. Erythronium species that bloom at the end of April are best planted in an area well-lit by the sun. This will slightly delay the onset of flowering in early erythronium species and at the same time accelerate the appearance of flowers in later species.

In the photo: Growing erythronium in the garden

Kandyk prefers light, peaty, sour and moist soils, approximately of the following composition: coarse-grained sand, leafy earth and humus. A couple of weeks before planting, 100 g of crushed chalk, 200 g of bone meal, 150 g of superphosphate and 30 g of potassium nitrate are added to each m² of the plot.

Erythronium is propagated by both seeds and children. All American species, with the exception of the multi-stemmed kandyk, are propagated only by seeds, which are harvested in June.

It is important not to miss the moment when the ripe bolls begin to open, because the seeds will simply fall to the ground and be taken away by ants or pecked by birds. It is better to remove the boxes a little earlier and ripen the seed in a dry room with good ventilation.

It is better to remove the pods a little earlier and ripen the seed in a dry room with good ventilation.

Both sowing seeds and planting erythronium bulbs in the ground are carried out at the end of summer.

How to plant erythronium

Ripe erythronium seeds are laid out at a distance 5 cm apart into grooves 3 cm deep, spaced 10 cm apart, after which the grooves are sealed and watered. For the winter, a plot with crops is covered only if a very cold winter without snow is coming. Seedlings will appear in the spring, and by the end of April they should reach a height of at least 4 cm. If the sprouts are lower by this time, it means that the erythronium lacks moisture or nutrition.

In the first season, the plants form bulbs about 4 mm in size, in the second season, the bulbs grow up to 7 mm, and in the third season they acquire a cylindrical shape, burrow themselves into the soil by 7-10 cm and increase in diameter up to 8 mm. Plants grown from seeds bloom in the fourth or fifth year after germination. If you decide to sow erythronium in the spring, then the seeds must first be stratified for 2-3 months in a vegetable box of the refrigerator, placing them in a plastic bag with wet sand or peat.

If you grow erythronium from bulbs, then each species has its own requirements for this procedure: European-Asian varieties are immersed by 10-15 cm, keeping a distance of at least 15 cm between the bulbs, and American species are buried by 16-20 cm, keeping between them at the same interval. After planting, the site is mulched and watered.

Application in landscape design

Kandyk looks great in tandem with other bulbous plants. The same tulips are perfectly combined with the "alpine" flower. Kandyk is combined with other spring flowers due to its long flowering, which lasts 15-21 days. It is often used in rock gardens or for decorating lawns, and the opened inflorescences are used to create bouquets.

Now you know which bulbous plant you can plant in your garden or use to create an alpine slide.

We recommend use the bulbs for planting plants, as seeds are resource and time consuming, but generative propagation can help you create your own variety that only grows in your area.

Planting seeds

Growing your own plants from seeds is a reliable and economical way to get a foreigner into your own garden.

At the end of summer, ripe seeds are selected without mechanical damage. They are placed in prepared grooves up to 5 cm deep, at a distance of 5-7 cm, covered, tamped and watered. Before the start of frosts, crops can be left uncovered, they are quite resistant to not very large frosts. In the spring, the first shoots will appear, by April they should reach 4-5 cm, if this has not happened, then the plant has not received enough moisture and nutrition. In the first year, the kandyk forms bulbs no more than 5 mm, in the second - up to 8 mm, only in the third year they become cylindrical and sprout independently into the ground. Erythronium grown from seeds blooms for the first time in the fifth or sixth year.

Watering and feeding kandyk

At the very beginning of spring, when the kandyk begins to grow actively, the earth has not yet dried out from melt water, therefore it should be watered no earlier than in May, and then in the case of a dry spring. Periodically, after rainfall or watering, it is advisable to slightly loosen the ground around the plant and remove weeds.

There is no need to apply top dressing in the first year, the plants that were made during planting are quite enough. Starting from the second year, the site where the planted kandyk needs to be mulched with organic fertilizer - peat or plant humus. Kandyk responds well to mineral fertilizing for flowers.

Diseases and pests

Kandyk, in general, is not susceptible to diseases, and moles and mice can be attributed to pests. Often the seeds of erythronium are picked up by ants and pecked by birds, but they can hardly be attributed to pests. To keep the population of erythroniums on your site, it would be wise to place them in different parts of the garden. To combat rodents, special traps are well suited, and for a bear, you can dig holes, put fresh humus there, where insects will definitely come to lay their eggs. After which it will be easy to destroy them.

Kandyk honey

Kandyk is a great early honey plant. The plant's nectar contains fructose, glucose, minerals, enzymes, acids, a complex of vitamins and other useful ingredients. Honey smells very good and has unique healing properties. It is taken for coughs, fever, it helps to lower the temperature. This honey is used in cosmetology to make antiseptic honey water. It softens and moisturizes the skin, nourishes it with beneficial substances.

What is the use of kandyk?

The beneficial properties of kandyk bulbs could not fail to be noticed by traditional medicine.

They contain antispasmodics and alcohols. With the help of fresh kandyk bulbs, seizures, including epileptic seizures, are relieved. The leaves are endowed with a general strengthening effect, fight aging, they are used to prevent impotence. In addition, the leaves are rich in enzymes, dietary fiber, minerals and vitamins. A decoction of kandyk leaves is used to rinse the hair to strengthen the hair follicles.

Plant care

We discussed the growing area of ​​the kandyk, described the planting and the choice of a suitable place, now let's talk about caring for the plant of the alpine belt.

Above we talked about the need to plant a flower in the shade. For this, you can use tall shrubs and trees, as well as other perennial grasses that cast a shadow.

Lighting should be diffused, direct sunlight will destroy the kandyk, so in no case plant in an open area and do not remove the plants shading the kandyk.

Temperature regime

Depending on the species, the maximum and minimum temperatures that the plant can withstand fluctuate. For example, the Siberian kandyk does not freeze at temperatures down to -50 ° C, and the Caucasian version feels great at abnormally high temperatures, as it grows not only in the Caucasus, but also near the Black Sea coast. The Japanese kandyk survives in freezing temperatures down to -16 ° C, but high summer temperatures are contraindicated for it.

Watering should be done in moderation during the entire growing season of the plant, then the amount of watering is reduced to a minimum in order to prepare the flower for wintering. You need to water it with clean water, avoiding waterlogging.

The air humidity should not be high, otherwise the flower will start to ache, therefore additional spraying from a spray bottle will only bring harm. If there is constant high humidity in your region, then be prepared for the fact that the kandyk will have to be regularly treated for fungal diseases.

In the spring, you need to close up potash and phosphorus fertilizers so that the flower grows faster and throws out the peduncle. Next, fertilizers for flowering plants are applied, which can be purchased at a specialized store.

To begin with, the flower is very painful to transplant, so it is better not to do this every year, but immediately plant it in a permanent place. If you want to separate the daughter bulbs in parallel, then wait until the peduncle dries up, and only then start the transplant.

1. Seven Secrets of Success:

Botanical name: Erythronium.

Family. Liliaceae.

Origin where it grows. America, Caucasus, Altai, Japan, China, Mongolia. In its natural habitat, kandyk can be found under the forest canopy, in alpine meadows, and also often in the highlands.

Description - what it looks like. Kandyk are perennial flowering bulbous plants that bloom mainly in early spring. Currently, the genus includes about 29 plant species. Translated from the Turkic language, "kandyk" means "dog's tooth". The second name of the flower - "mountain tulip" is given for its early flowering and habitat.

Under the ground, plants have small, elongated bulbs, consisting of large scales. Interestingly, each bulb carries traces of past years - the bottom of last year's bulbs.

In early spring, immediately after the snow melts, the flower forms a small stem, on which there are large, narrow - lanceolate leaves, located opposite, in pairs. The length of the leaf blades reaches 8 - 12 cm.

The color of the leaf blades is extremely interesting - almost every species of kandyk has spotted leaves with spots of various shapes and colors. The vein of leaves is arcuate.

At the top of the stem is a slightly drooping peduncle with a single small bud. Some varieties are able to form 2 - 4 buds on one peduncle.

The flowers resemble cyclamen - they have long, bent back petals. Interestingly, in bad weather, such as rain, the petals fall and protect the pollen from being washed away.After flowering, the plants form small seed pods, and in the second half of summer, a couple of weeks after the seeds ripen, the entire ground part of the flower may die off.

Unfortunately, human industrial activities, the collection and sale of flowers and bulbs, as well as deforestation have led to the fact that such species as Siberian, Caucasian and Japanese kandyk are now included in the Red Book.

Height. mainly varieties of kandyk reach only 10 - 30 cm in height, but there are plants up to 60 cm in height.

Kandyk care in the garden

It is relatively easy to grow a kandyk in your garden. Such a culture is rarely watered. And if you want to reduce the number of weeding and loosening, then the surface of the site must be covered with a layer of mulch.

How to water and feed

The beginning of intensive growth of this flower occurs in early spring. At this time, after the melting of the snow cover, the ground contains a large amount of melt water. In this regard, the kandyk will have to be watered only in May, and then if there is very little rain in the spring. After the bushes are watered or the rain has passed, it is necessary to systematically loosen the surface of the soil around them shallowly, while pulling out all the weeds.

In the first year, such flowers do not need to be fed, because they have enough nutrients that were introduced into the ground before sowing seeds or before planting bulbs. In subsequent seasons, it will only be necessary to cover the surface of the site with a layer of mulch (deciduous humus or peat). Also, for feeding this culture, you can use mineral fertilizers for decorative flowering plants.

How to transplant and propagate

For 4 or 5 years of growth in one place, the bush turns into a "nest", so it will be necessary to transplant it. Transplanting a kandyk, it is propagated by the method of dividing the bulbs. It is recommended to carry out this procedure in July or August, at which time the kandyk has a period of rest. By the time of transplantation, the leaves of the bushes should turn yellow, while the bulbs should have time to recover their strength spent on flowering. Separated from the bulbs removed from the ground, the children must be planted in the grooves prepared in advance in the same way as described in detail above. At the same time, do not forget to sprinkle the places of fractures with coal powder. It should be noted that the bulbs cannot stay in the air for a long time, since, due to the lack of covering scales, they begin to dry out almost immediately. In the case when the bulbs need to be removed for storage, then for this they take a box, which is filled with moistened sphagnum, sand or peat, into which they are buried.

You can read about all the features of the generative (seed) reproduction of such a plant above.

Erythronium in winter

Kandyk has a fairly high frost resistance, so when grown in the garden, it can winter in open soil. But if a frosty and little-snow winter is ahead, then the kandyk will need shelter, for this the site is covered with a sufficiently thick layer of spruce branches or dried foliage. It is necessary to remove the shelter only at the beginning of the spring period, after the snow cover has melted.

Diseases and pests

Kandyk has a very high disease resistance. Among pests, moles, mice and bears are the most dangerous for him. Experienced gardeners recommend planting these flowers in various places in the garden plot, this will prevent the death of all specimens. To get rid of pests, you need to make traps. To catch a bear, it is necessary to make a hole on the site in which fresh manure is placed, in which this pest prefers to lay eggs. The holes on top must be covered with slate or a board, after a while you need to check the bait and, if necessary, destroy it along with the bears. Lures with special poison will help to get rid of rodents.

Planting erythronium in open ground

What time to plant

Erythronium, which begins to bloom in the first days of April, is recommended to be planted in a shaded place in the northern part of the garden area under the lacy crowns of shrubs and trees. Since the bushes bloom at a time when there is still no foliage on the bushes and trees, there is enough sunlight for them. Those species that bloom in the last days of April should be planted in a sunny area. If everything is done correctly, then the late varieties will begin to bloom earlier, and the early ones - on the contrary, later.

The soil suitable for planting should be peaty, moist, light and slightly acidic, its approximate composition: leafy earth, coarse sand and humus. The preparation of the site must be done half a month before planting, for this, 200 grams of bone meal, 30 grams of potassium nitrate, 100 grams of crushed chalk and 150 grams of superphosphate per 1 square meter of the site must be added to the soil.

Kandyk is propagated by seeds, as well as by children. All American species can be propagated only by seed, in addition to the multi-stemmed kandyk. Seeds are harvested in June, while you need to be very careful, since after full ripeness, the capsules open, and their contents are on the surface site, after which they can be pecked by birds or dragged away by ants. Experienced gardeners recommend cutting off a little unripe bolls, after which they are placed for ripening in a well-ventilated dry room. Sowing seeds and planting bulbs in open soil are carried out in the last summer weeks.

Landing rules

Before you start sowing the kandyk, you need to make grooves 30 mm deep, and the distance between them should be about 100 mm. Then the ripe seeds are placed in the prepared grooves, while a distance of 50 mm should be kept between them. Then the seeds need to be repaired. Crops need abundant watering. The site will need to be covered only when forecasters promise that the winter will be frosty and little snow. The first seedlings should appear in spring, while in the last days of April their height should reach at least 40 mm. In the event that the seedlings are not so tall, then this means that they lack nutrients and water. At the end of the first season, the diameter of the bulbs is 40 mm, and at the end of the second season, about 70 mm. And during the third season, their shape becomes cylindrical, after which they themselves sink into the ground by 70-100 mm, and in across they reach 80 mm. For the first time, bushes that have grown from seeds bloom 4–5 years after the seedlings appear.

It is possible to sow seeds in spring, but they need preliminary stratification. To do this, the seed must be placed on a refrigerator shelf for vegetables for 8-12 weeks, but first they must be poured into a polyethylene bag, which must be filled with moistened peat or sand.

As mentioned above, these flowers can be grown from bulbs. Moreover, each species has its own characteristics of vegetative reproduction. Bulbs of American species must be buried in the soil by 16–20 centimeters, while the distance between them must be at least 15 centimeters. And Asian-European species need to be buried in the ground by 10-15 centimeters, and the distance between them must also be left at least 15 centimeters. When the bulbs are planted, the site must be covered with a layer of mulch, they also need abundant watering.

Recommended species and varieties

E. americattum (K. American)

This species blooms rather quickly, forming single bright yellow flowers 4 cm wide by the top of beige stems up to 20 cm. Leaves are green, with brown spots, up to 15 cm long and 4 cm wide. The height and diameter of the plant is 20x20 cm.

Single bright yellow flowers

E. californicurn (K. californian)

In spring, it forms creamy pink flowers with a yellow eye, which emerge from pinkish-brown buds. Flowers up to 5 cm wide, formed on a purple stem. Leaves are lanceolate, 15 cm long and 6 cm wide, green with white spots.The height and diameter of the plant is 30x30 cm.

Yellow peephole

"White Beauty"

A fast growing plant with white, star-shaped flowers and leaves with a brighter marbled pattern than the original species.

Star flowers

E. caucasicum (K. Caucasian)

One of the earliest flowering kandyks. Its pastel pink flowers with folded leaves and golden stamens can be admired soon after the snow melts. Leaves with a red pattern. The height and diameter of the plant is 10x12 cm.

Bent leaves

E. "Citronella"

The variety has loose inflorescences with 1-3 lemon-yellow drooping flowers. Leaves ascending, with bright brown spots, up to 10 cm long and 2 cm wide. The height and diameter of the plant is 25x20 cm.

Loose inflorescences

E. dens-canis (K. dog tooth, K. European)

One of the most reliable kandyks, which blooms profusely, forming single star-shaped pink, 4 cm wide with petals bent upwards on stems 20 cm high. Leaves with brown spots, 15 cm long and 5 cm wide. The height and diameter of the plant is 20x15 cm.

Abundantly flowering variety

E. japonicum (K. Japanese)

In spring, one purple bell-shaped flower up to 3.5 cm in diameter is formed on dark green stems with a purple tint. The height and diameter of the plant is 15x15 cm.

Purple shade of flowers

E. "Pagoda"

A well-known variety with inflorescences up to 25 cm high, in which up to ten light yellow flowers 6 cm in diameter. This vigorous, abundantly flowering plant bears glossy leaves up to 15 cm long and 5 cm wide at the base with brown spots. Unfortunately, in the middle lane, the bulbs are often smaller. The height and diameter of the plant is 25x20 cm.

Light yellow flowers

E. revolutum (K. folded)

This species forms loose inflorescences of up to four pink flowers 7.5 cm in diameter, towering above attractive leaves with round brown spots. Leaves are erect, green, with wavy edges, up to 20 cm long and 5 cm wide. The height and diameter of the plant is 25x20 cm.

Leaves are erect, green

E. sibiricum (K. Siberian)

This species, absolute in terms of winter hardiness, differs from others in monochromatic reddish leaves. On powerful peduncles, one large flower with leaves up to 5 cm long.

The color varies from white to dark pink and lilac. The height and diameter of the plant is 20x15 cm.

Flower color varies

E. tuolumnense (K. tuolumnian)

Forms capitate inflorescences with up to ten bright yellow flowers. This rapidly spreading plant bears pairs of shiny green leaves up to 15 cm long and 5 cm wide. The height and diameter of the plant is 30x20 cm.

Bright yellow flowers

How to feed the kandyk?

Before planting a kandyk on a plot of land, it is worth paying at the rate of 1 sq.m. 100 g of complex fertilizer, it can be any composition from the store. In addition, 50 g of saltpeter with calcium, 2 buckets per 1 sq. M. Are introduced into the ground. compost and 3-4 glasses of wood ash. Due to the fact that the plant is rarely transplanted, after each flowering it should be fed with organic fertilizers, and just before the ejection of the peduncle, at the beginning of its vegetative period, dry fertilizer in granules is applied under the plant.

The first top dressing should be carried out during the growing season before the snow melts, and in this case, 25-30 g of complex dry fertilizer is applied under the plant. The second top dressing is during the period of ejection of the peduncle, and in this case it is best to choose a liquid top dressing from 10 g of complex, granular fertilizer and 20 g of nitrate per bucket of water

When applying liquid fertilizing under the plant, it is important that it does not fall on the leaves and peduncles; in order to avoid burning the plant, it is recommended to water it or spray it with plain clean water. The cycle of fertilizing is completed by the introduction of humus under the plant, after it has faded, this will allow you to safely survive the winter and give new, beautiful and strong flowers in the spring.

Planting and caring for the plant

Kandyk is a perennial variety, which is enough to plant on your own garden plot once and forget about transplanting for several years. So, his painted leaves make their way with the first peduncles in the spring - the flower beds and glades from them look fascinating.

The only negative is that the presented plant from the ephemeroid class dies off after its flowering approximately by the beginning to mid-summer.Kandyk is very unpretentious to any whims and changes in weather conditions - it perfectly tolerates winter frosts, and May frosts, lack of snow, rainstorms. Nevertheless, negative weather conditions will affect the size of the plant, its color and flowering time - under favorable conditions, the kandyk will bloom longer, its leaves and flowers will be brighter and larger.

It is recommended to plant this unpretentious plant in an area that is brightly lit by the sun in the spring months, but with a slight darkening; the area under a tree or bush is perfect for this. The thing is that until foliage appears on the tree, the kandyk will be brightly lit, and at the end of flowering, when the plant falls into a state of dormancy, the foliage that appears on the tree will shade it.

With regard to transplanting a kandyk, planting and replanting the latter is as rare as possible, but nevertheless it is necessary. The frequency of transplanting the kandyk is once every 5-8 years, and for this it is worth choosing the time when the plant is dormant, in dry weather. As a rule, this is the end of summer and the beginning of autumn.

The kandyk bulbs are planted one by one in the ground, immersing them to a depth of no more than 15 cm, maintaining a distance of 10 cm between them.Kandyk has such a feature - its bulb does not have a protective shell, and therefore such a plant is stored until the moment of transplanting a minimum of time, having previously cleaned from the ground and wrapped in moistened moss. Before planting, the bulbs are kept in the moss for no more than one and a half weeks in a cool place from the moment they are dug up to transplanting, but many gardeners recommend planting them immediately after it is dug out of the ground.

Description

Description: these are plants of cool and humid light forests, open places (edges, meadows), temperate and subtropical zones of the Northern Hemisphere; some species rise to alpine meadows and mountain tundra, live near snowfields in rock niches. Most species of the genus are native to North America. There are 25 species in the genus and several rather well-distinguishable varieties and forms; in the USSR there are 4 species. Some of them have been introduced into the culture.

Perennial bulbous plants overwintering in the ground are 10-45 cm tall. The bulb is deeply seated, with a membranous membrane, ovoid, ovoid-oblong, in many species almost cylindrical, narrowed downward and upward, resembles a dog's tooth in shape and color (hence the name of the species E. dens-canis - "kandyk", "dog tooth "). The stem is straight, bears one at the apex, less often several (up to drooping, pink, purple, white, yellow, with various shades of flowers, and in the lower half - 1-2 (3), often with purple spots, broadly lanceolate leaves, narrowed at the base into a grooved petiole.

Perianth drooping, of 6 falling leaves, converging in the lower part into a bell-shaped tube, above the diverging and curving outward; inner leaflets at the base with a transverse fold and a nectary dimple under it, sometimes with a pair of auricular appendages. There are 6 stamens, they have spindle-shaped, subulate-like pointed filaments and linear-oblong anthers attached to them with bases. The column is filiform, thickening at the top, with a three-lobed stigma. The capsule is obovate, obtuse ribbed, opening with a gap in the nests, with few, more or less flattened seeds. Almost all types of kandyk are early spring plants; aerial shoots die off in early summer.

Kandyk is rarely found in our gardens, and among the species growing on the territory of the former USSR, Kandyk Caucasian and Japanese Kandyk are very rare in the culture. In Western Europe, E. dens-canis and North American species with yellow flowers are most common in culture.