Growing adorable daisies from seeds: when and how to plant correctly, photos, flower care

What if it doesn't grow?

Even if all the rules for breeding lithops are followed, it happens that for some reason the seeds do not germinate or adult plants die.

Possible problems

One of the most common problems when growing lithops is to stretch them out, while they do not bloom and begin to hurt.

Less common problems with these plants include:

• drying or decay of shoots and leaves;
• stunting;
• lack of flowering;
• the appearance of insects.

Lithops can also die due to improper placement and care.

How to reanimate?

If the plant is sick, then there is no need to despair, with the timely elimination of the problem, you can manage to save it from death.

The way a plant is treated depends on the cause:

The elongated shoot must be cut off and its crown rooted. After that, he needs to provide the recommended atmosphere (illumination, watering).
In case of root rot disease, you should carefully remove the flower from the soil, remove diseased roots. Then treat the remaining rhizome in a disinfectant liquid. To do this, it is immersed for 30 minutes in a 2% solution of Bordeaux liquid. Plant lithops in new soil after processing.
With a mealybug, the plant should be treated with special compounds once a week - a solution of laundry soap, phosphamide or actara.
If a mealy mite is found on the exotic, then it must be treated with Actellik's solution for a week.
If the plant is affected by aphids, you can use insecticides or folk remedies (solutions of garlic or hot pepper).
When rot appears on the leaves, it is necessary to stop watering the lithops until the soil is completely dry

The affected parts of the plant must be carefully removed.

Lithops are an original decorative flower. Subject to all the rules of cultivation, it pleases with unusual shapes and long flowering.

Find out also about the rules for caring for this unusual plant at home and what types of "living stones" are.

Graft

Vaccination of cacti is needed for:

• growth stimulation;
• flowering stimulation;
• growing seedlings;
• saving a rotten cactus;
• reproduction of rare and mutant species;
• colored cacti that are unable to grow on their own;
• spectacular (some cacti look much better grafted).

The stock can be temporary - for rooting and growing of cacti, or permanent: for all colored cacti, for those that have lost a large lower part and are unable to root, etc.

Any type of cacti can be grafted together, but there are two basic rules:

1. The stock must be completely healthy, with strong roots and appropriate to the size of the scion. The graft will grow much faster than the rootstock, so you need to calculate the size of the upper cactus so that it does not curl the lower one with its weight.
2. The stock must correspond to the characteristics of the scion, for example, the content of lime. If the scion requires a higher content of this element, then you will need to provide the stock with a sufficient amount of lime in the soil. Moreover, if the species of the lower cactus does not tolerate an increased content of lime, you can destroy both plants.

• Examples of stock: Cereus, Echionocereus, Selenicereus, Trichocereus, Periscus, Eriocereus, Myrtillocactus.
• Examples of scion: mamilaria, lobivia, rebutia, hymnocallicium.

Prerequisites for vaccination:

• cacti must be in a state of growth (spring-summer);
• the stems should not be lignified;
• a week before vaccination, cacti are not watered;
• the cutting tool must be very sharp and disinfected (for example, alcohol or boiling water);
• if the stock was transplanted, another cactus can be grafted onto it only a month later;
• it is desirable that the diameters of the aligned sections be the same. If they do not match, they need to be aligned in the middle so that the cambular rings match, and sprinkle the open sections with crushed coal.
• For fixation, you need to make 2 tourniquets (for example, use elastic bands or strings). You can put some kind of matter on the top cactus so as not to push it and not to break the bundles.

Step-by-step instructions for plant grafting

1. Cut off the top of the cactus for the stock.
2. Bevel the edges of the stock a little. Make another thin, even cut and leave this piece on the rootstock to keep it moist.
3. Cut off the scion evenly and bevel the edges. Before installing on the stock, we quickly update the cut (the main thing is to cut off a thin layer on the cambric ring) and then act without delay.
4. We remove the cut layer from the stock with tweezers and press the scion against the stock cut in order to maximally combine the cambial rings. Twist the scion a little, pressing it into the lower cactus so that it joins it as tightly as possible.
5. We press the scion with prepared bundles crosswise. If the scion has thorns, place the material to avoid tearing the strands. Sprinkle the remaining open sections with crushed coal.
6. We make a greenhouse by covering the cactus with a glass, jar or piece of agrofibre.
7. We put the grafted cactus in a warm, shady place, away from sunlight, for 2-3 weeks.

• Water the cactus very sparingly, a few days after vaccination.
• The sections must be protected from water ingress, so wipe the condensation from the walls of the coating.
• The greenhouse and bandages are removed after two weeks.
• In the future, care for the grafted cactus is needed in accordance with the stock.
• The resulting children from the stock must be removed.

If the scion has given roots, it will have to be removed from the rootstock and planted in the ground. Or try to cut again and graft again (you will have to update the cut on the rootstock). But I do not advise doing this, it is better to plant the graft that gave the roots.

Nuances for forest cacti

Forest cacti can also be grafted. The peculiarity is that it is even easier to do this than with ordinary cacti.

For example, how to plant a schlumberger on prickly pear:

• cut (or cut) the trunk in the selected part of the prickly pear and attach or pin the Schlumberger stalk to the cut. We make a cut on the Schlumberger handle in the middle of the segment.
• It can be grafted into the incision from above, while the cutting is sharpened from the sides under the incision (grafting with a wedge).

We plant ripsalidopsis on Schlumberger:

1. make a cut in the middle of the Schlumberger segment.
2. Cut off the bottom on the ripsalidopsis handle, and fix it (with a string or tape) on the Schlumberger cut.

All other steps are the same as for the usual grafting of cacti. You can experiment with vaccinations, it's very interesting!

Grafted cacti - gallery

Reproduction of cacti is an interesting and simple matter. Cacti grown by you from seeds or shoots will not only be cheaper than purchased ones, but also dearer to your heart!

Planting process

Even an inexperienced grower can plant a palm tree, however, a number of important nuances should be taken into account. First of all, palms are somewhat different from most home flowers, which means they have their own special needs:

• you can sow palm trees regardless of the season, however, the sprouts need a well-lit place; with a lack of light, they will have to be provided with artificial lighting;
• germination and germination duration are related to the shelf life of the seed, so it is better to sow it immediately after purchase;
• prepared seeds are placed in a light soil mixture - this can be a ready-made material for germinating seeds, in addition, flower growers often use a mixture of perlite and vermiculite, with the addition of sphagnum or a substrate of coconut fibers; they should be moist, but not wet; it is advisable to disinfect the material beforehand by steaming for 8-12 minutes in the microwave;
• it is not necessary to place the seeds too deeply, a depth of 1-2 diameters of seeds is enough; if too deep, they begin to rot; if the seeds are scarified, then they should be planted with the cut side down;

you can take any container, but it is best to use transparent plastic containers with a lid - these are used to sell confectionery and pastries; in a closed container, the seeds will not dry out, and thanks to the transparent bottom, it is easier to observe the process of seedling growth;
the landing should be placed in a warm place, the air temperature should be + 25- + 32 degrees; however, this indicator depends on the variety of palm trees: for some, the normal germination temperature is +25 degrees, while for others, +30 is not enough;
to eliminate the likelihood of mold and seed rotting, you should arrange daily ventilation - it is enough to open the container lid for 15–20 minutes a day, providing free access to air;
home-grown palm seeds do not need to be watered; as the substrate dries, it should be carefully sprayed from a spray bottle;

Some, especially advanced "palmaholics" acquire special mini-greenhouses with installed heating devices and a thermostat. But, this pleasure is not cheap.

In the summer, a container with palm seeds can be placed on the windowsill, but you just have to take into account the following:

• the windowsill should be warm, without drafts and constant shade;
• the substrate and seedlings should not be exposed to direct sunlight.

If there is no place with suitable conditions, then there is a way out: future palm trees will feel good on the closet, where the thermometer will always show more degrees than in the rest of the room.

Methods for growing alissum from seeds

Alyssum propagates mainly by seeds, since this is the easiest way. Especially valuable varieties can be propagated by cuttings or, less often by dividing the bush.

Planting seeds can be carried out at different times:

• early spring for seedlings;
• directly into open ground to a permanent place;
• carry out podzimny sowing.

Planting seedlings in spring

Seedlings

Planting alyssum seedlings is the most optimal method for growing alyssum.

If you sow the seeds in April, you can get flowering bushes in June.

To get good seedlings of alyssum, you need to follow the following rules when sowing:

• Choose a container with a depth of at least 3-4 cm, which must have drainage holes;
• Choose a soil for seeds, it should be light and breathable and permeable;
• Before planting seeds, the soil must be watered, but not too much, the soil should only be moist, not wet;
• Gently sprinkle alyssum seeds over the surface of the soil and sprinkle with a thin layer, or leave the seeds in the light, but then they must be gently pressed to the ground. To do this, you can use a wooden stick with a blunt end;
• To maintain optimal soil moisture, the container with seeds must be covered with foil or glass;
• The container must be ventilated daily and the resulting condensation must be collected;
• For seedlings to appear within 7-10 days, you need to maintain a temperature of at least 15 degrees;
• After the emergence of seedlings, the container must be kept in the sunniest place so that the seedlings do not stretch out;
• After the appearance of several pairs of leaves, the crown of the sprouts must be pinched for better tillering.
• If the seedlings are planted early, and there is not enough space in the container for them, picking into separate cups is necessary;
• Seedlings are planted in open ground in late May - early June.

When growing alissum by this method, the plant blooms already in June, sometimes the first flowers appear on the seedlings.

Landing in open ground

For those who do not like to tinker with seedlings or cannot allocate space for them on the windowsill, the method of planting seeds immediately in open ground is suitable.

You can sow seeds right away to a permanent place, but it is possible on a bedding bed under a film, and only then plant seedlings in a permanent place. Sowing seeds in this way is carried out in the first half of May.

Rules for planting alissum seeds in open ground in spring:

• The soil where it is planned to sow the seeds must be carefully prepared: dig up, clear of weed residues, loosen all the lumps.
• If the soil is dry, then it needs to be watered, but, as a rule, there is still enough moisture in the soil at this time;
• Sow seeds over the surface of the soil and sprinkle with a thin layer. In this case, the consumption of seeds should be higher, since the percentage of germination in open ground conditions will be lower than when growing seedlings;
• It is advisable to cover the planting site with foil or lutrasil until shoots appear;
• After the emergence of seedlings, weeds must be constantly removed so that they do not drown out the seedlings;
• If the seeds are planted in a permanent place, then you need to thin out frequent plantings, the optimal scheme for growing alissum is 20 * 20 cm.

The main advantage of this sowing method is the absence of a period of adaptation of the planted plant, which does not need to be accustomed to open ground.

Landing before winter

Alissum rock perennial

Another method of growing alissum is planting seeds before winter. It is advisable to use it for perennial species, since in this case they will undergo natural stratification, and the germination of seeds will be higher.

For successful sowing of seeds before winter, the following rules must be observed:

• Prepare a landing site in advance. This should be done before the onset of frost. In the prepared soil, it is necessary to make grooves with a depth of 1-2 cm.
• Seeds are sown around November, after stable low temperatures are established;
• The seeds must be dry. Dry sand is poured into the groove, seeds are planted and sprinkled on top;
• Seedlings appear the next year after the ground thaws.
• If the seedlings appeared early and there is a threat of frost, then arcs should be installed above the crops and covered with foil or lutrasilrm.
• After the seedlings are large enough, they are planted in the main place.

Seedlings grown in this way are very resistant to adverse weather conditions, and unlike those that grow in indoor conditions, they are compact.

Basic rules for sowing seeds of indoor plants

So, everything is prepared: the seeds are processed and slightly dried, suitable shallow boxes with a drainage bottom, purchased or formed planting soil for seedlings, glass or a transparent plastic bag. At the bottom of the box, lay out a drainage layer, usually of expanded clay, I personally prefer eggshells, fearing the acid reaction of expanded clay. Put the soil on top and moisten it with warm water to its entire depth.

The seeds are buried at a rate of two or three times its value, and plants such as gloxinia and adenium are simply spread on the surface of the soil. The best results for any form of sowing are given by a mini greenhouse, for which place glass on the box or completely insert the entire box into a transparent bag, the top of which is tucked under the box. In either case, watering is not necessary in the next 3-4 days and the hatched seedlings will be clearly visible.

It remains to provide an even warm temperature not lower than +20 C, and from the moment of germination - with sufficient lighting. As soon as shoots become noticeable, remove the glass or package and water it only by irrigation, so that the soil does not crack.It is undesirable to put the box on a heating battery for heating - it is dangerous overheating and death of seedlings.

It is necessary to determine the lighting rate. Seeds such as adenium, dionea, eustoma will germinate only in bright sunlight, and cyclamens require darkness for germination. If germination takes place in a greenhouse (under glass or film), then a periodic "walk" is required - the box opens for 15 minutes (once a day). Avoid overdrying the soil.

Adorable zinnias, how to collect the seeds of these flowers? Hints, tips

It is impossible not to fall in love with zinnia at first sight. When the flower is dissolved, it is a colorful ball with many petals.

Variety of varieties

There are many varieties of zinnia. There are tall plants here, the stems of which rush up to 1 meter. These giants look great in both single and group plantings. In the latter case, they are placed in the middle of the flower bed, framed with border flowers.

Breeders have bred dwarf plants that do not exceed 20 cm in height. These look great along the paths, gracefully border the lawn, flower bed.

The color range of zinnias is varied. It can be white, yellow, red, pink, orange, there are even variegated colors.

The inflorescences of these charming creatures can be pompom, dahlia, cactus, chrysanthemum, fantasy, Gaillardium.

To be able to admire the graceful plants annually in your suburban area, it is not necessary to buy zinnia seeds. Experienced gardeners know how to collect seeds, but beginners will quickly master this simple science. Then you can breed your favorite varieties.

Seed collection time

Even during the blooming of the buds, it is necessary to notice those bushes that you like the most. Place sticks near them. Leave on one plant, which will be the mother plant, no more than 5-6 inflorescences. Then they will grow large enough to give excellent seeds.

From the moment of budding to the ripening of seeds, at least two months must pass.

Therefore, here's another important thing to know about zinnia: how to collect seeds and when should it be done? Since these flowers do not tolerate autumn frosts, it is important to have time to collect flower seeds

Zinnia should not be caught in the first frost. If in your region nighttime autumn frosts, when the temperature drops below -1 ° C, may be in mid-September, then the buds you like should bloom no later than mid-July.

Since these flowers do not tolerate autumn frosts, it is important to have time to collect the flower seeds. Zinnia should not be caught in the first frost

If in your region nighttime autumn frosts, when the temperature drops below -1 ° C, may be in mid-September, then the buds you like should bloom no later than mid-July.

Another important condition that will help to obtain high-quality material is planting plants with light flowers separately from bright ones. So, the buds of a white, yellow color, being in the vicinity of crimson, red, can get dusty

The result is a plant that has red dots on light-colored flowers. From the seeds next year, a completely different zinnia color will appear. How to collect seeds so that they are well stored until next spring is another question that should be resolved at the beginning of autumn. They must be collected in dry, clear weather. This should be done during the day, as there is abundant dew in the morning and evening hours at this time of the year.

Zinnias: How to Collect the Seeds of These Plants?

After choosing the optimal day for collecting seeds, you need to carefully examine the flower head. It should consist of dried scales, these are the seeds of zinnia. You can see how they look in the photos. Seeds are dark oval scales 3-5 mm long, pointed on one side.

Will clearly show how to collect zinnia seeds, photo

It is important not to confuse them with dried petals. Proceed in stages

First, cut off the dried flower head with a pruner. Place it on a piece of cellophane or light-colored paper

Carefully remove the faded petals; underneath you will find flower seeds. Zinnia must be well ripe

If its head is not dry enough, cut it off, put it on paper and dry it at room temperature. If possible, then at +35 ° С. After that, using the method described above, collect the seeds.

How to collect seeds from which double flowers will grow?

Not always, subsequently, from the collected seeds, plants with double inflorescences will appear. To increase the chance of a fluffy flower forming, only collect seeds that are closer to the edge of the bud head.

Pay attention to which seeds look like. If they are brown in color, have a notch in the upper part, then a flower with petals, like a chamomile, will grow from them next year.

There is a high probability of the appearance of terry seeds from longer, darker and downwardly pointed seeds. It is very high in long seeds of a triangular, subulate shape of gray color.

Divide the collected seeds into small paper bags, label the variety. You can store them at room temperature in a cool place for 3-4 years. After this time, they will lose their germination.

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Features of seed reproduction of indoor plants

At first glance, nothing could be easier, and seeds are usually inexpensive. You can buy seeds of the most exotic plants, the cuttings of which cannot be sent by mail due to the risk of damage during transportation. The postage of light bags with them will not present any particular difficulties - you just need to place an order.

So in theory, but in practice, "surprises" are possible. Those who have come across this can tell about some of the tricks: are the seeds, what is their freshness and ability to germinate. Even the seeds purchased in the store in the appropriate packaging can be from the series: "Do not believe your eyes." In addition, it takes quite a long time to grow the selected plant - cuttings are much faster. For example, a banana from a cuttings in a domestic culture will bear fruit in the second year, and from seeds in the third or fourth.

Even if you have the opportunity to collect seeds from the plants you like, you need to consider whether this is a hybrid variety. Such seeds can sprout with unpredictable results due to the loss, most often, of varietal traits.

Further care

Particular attention should be paid to top dressing. To fertilize the soil well, humus can be used at the stage of cultivating the site.

Usually, this measure is enough to provide the plant with everything it needs in the first year or even two. The same method can be used every year in late summer or early autumn, so that the seedlings have time to prepare well for wintering.

The jet is directed under the leaves using a separator. It is better if watering is frequent and moderate than rare and abundant, because the roots can suffer from excessive moisture. In addition to watering, the soil should be regularly loosened and rid of weeds. However, if the hosts are still too small, the weeds near the roots are not pulled out completely, so as not to damage the roots of the young.

The shape of the bush deserves special attention. So that it does not become too sprawling and rare, it is advised to remove the first peduncles. For the same purpose, hosts should be transplanted regularly (every five years). In addition to adjusting the appearance, the transplant provides material for propagation, allows you to unload the flower beds and assess the condition of the root part. Any changes in the form of spots on the leaves or drying out require action. Although considered hardy hosts, they sometimes suffer from infections and pests. At first, you can use fungicides, but if the disease develops, the plant will have to be removed.

There are two points of view about circumcision for the winter.Some gardeners are advised to remove all greens, others - only damaged or dried leaves. But in any case, it is better to insulate the flower bed, especially in regions with a harsh climate. For this, you can use any available materials - straw, spruce branches, burlap or cardboard. The protective layer is removed in spring, when the probability of frost decreases.

How to grow hosta from seeds, see below.

When and how to plant in the ground?

Hibiscus begins to hatch on the fourth day. When small, white sprouts appear, they need to be planted in the ground. How to plant indoor flower seedlings in the ground:

1. Drainage should be poured into the bottom of the pot with a layer of 2-3 cm. The best option is small expanded clay.
2. Further, ¾ of the pot is filled with soil, lightly tamping.
3. It is advisable to sprinkle the soil before planting so that it is moist.
4. You can plant 3 seeds in one pot. The sprouted part should lie sideways on the ground.
5. On top of the seeds, you need to pour soil with a height of 1-1.5 cm.
6. It is imperative to spray the soil.

You can learn about planting hibiscus outdoors in this article.

Transplanting seedlings

As a rule, it is recommended to transplant seeds that have roots - each sprout into a separate reservoir. It is convenient to use plastic cups for these purposes, and large seeds can be immediately placed in small pots.

However, some are in no hurry to plant them and initially place the sprouted seeds in a damp cloth and spread them in a warm place where there is a lot of light. It is better to pre-treat them with a fungicidal agent. As soon as the seeds have 1.5-2 cm seedlings, they can be transferred to a separate tank.

The soil mixture is also better sent for sterilization or treated with fungicides.

If the "palm" has hatched in a container with another flower, then it is not so easy to remove it

To do this, you need to take out the plant together with a lump of earth, carefully take out the sprout and transplant it into a separate tank.

Most palms undergo a lot of stress during transplanting, so when working with the plant, you should handle the root system carefully to avoid damage.