Home care
Let's take a closer look at the rules for caring for Calathea Rufibarba at home.
Watering
The plant prefers systematic watering. It is necessary to wait until the top layer of the soil dries up. Water should be soft, settled or boiled, without any chemical impurities.
The flower has a negative attitude towards overdrying the earthen coma and over-watering.
Cold water for irrigation will cause a long illness and death of Calathea Rufibarb.
Air humidity
The plant needs high humidity. The optimal range is 88-92%. To ensure such conditions, the flower is placed in a florarium.
It is allowed to put the container on an additional pallet with moistened forest moss or expanded clay. Twice a day, the plant is sprayed with water from a spray bottle. In this case, boiled or distilled water at room temperature is used.
Landing
The soil for this representative of the flora must be slightly acidic. In this case, it is necessary to select a loose, air-permeable soil with a large amount of vitamins and microelements.
You can buy ready-made black soil for Saintpaulias or arrowroot subspecies. Allowed to prepare the substrate yourself.
For this, peat, humus and leaf turf are used. Fine-grained sea sand is added to the mixture.
To increase air permeability, crushed charcoal is placed in the soil.
A drainage system is laid at the bottom of the pot.
Pebbles or expanded clay will protect the roots from decay and excessive waterlogging.
Transfer
Young plants need to be replanted every year. The procedure is carried out in the spring. Transplant tanks are used larger than they were before.
The pots should be wide and not too deep. This is due to the fact that the root system of the flower is poorly developed and belongs to the surface type of growth.
Adult specimens need to be replanted as needed. Usually they focus on filling the pot with the root system. A transplant is done when the plant becomes too crowded.
Top dressing
Calathea Rufibarba prefers systematic fertilization. Negatively refers to an overabundance or lack of fertilizing. Therefore, fertilization must be careful and very careful.
The procedure is carried out 1 time in 14 days by watering. In this case, use half of the concentration indicated in the instructions. Complex feeding for deciduous house flowers is perfect.
Reproduction
This representative of the flora reproduces by dividing the root system. The reproduction procedure is carried out during transplantation. In this case, small pieces are cut off.
Each bush should have a rosette with well-developed leaves. Planting material is planted in different bowls for constant growth. The plant is abundantly watered and fed.
Growing from seeds
Another way is seed propagation. They are soaked in a growth acceleration solution. Then dry thoroughly in a dark place.
After that, the shelf life of the seeds increases by 3-4 times.
They are sown in equal shares into a moistened substrate. A homemade greenhouse is installed on top.
You can use glass jars, cut plastic bottles, or cellophane.
It is important that the structure allows the sun's rays to pass through. The substrate is constantly kept moist
Periodically, the containers are ventilated, preventing the planting material from suffocating and rotting.
After a while, the first shoots should appear.After strengthening the plant and the appearance of 3-4 leaves, the flower is transplanted into bowls for permanent growth.
Temperature
The plant needs stable temperatures without fluctuations.
Calathea Rufibarba negatively tolerates severe hypothermia and overheating.
You can not install a flower next to cold glass windows and near heating appliances. The temperature in summer and winter should be between 18-25 ° C.
The recommended range for active growth is 18-20 ° C. It is forbidden to take a flower to a balcony, loggia, garden. It is not recommended to open windows in the room where Calathea Rufibarba is located.
Lighting
The flower requires constant diffused lighting. When exposed to direct sunlight, it needs light shading. Optimum illumination can vary from 2600 to 2800 lux.
If this representative of the flora does not have enough light, then its petioles begin to stretch strongly, and the leaves lose color and begin to shrink.
In winter, Kalatea Rufibarba needs additional artificial lighting. Phytolamps are perfect, which will extend the daylight hours by 14-17 hours.
Leaf care assessment
Flower leaves are not only interior decoration. By their appearance, you can see if the grower is caring for the plant correctly. Take a closer look at the surface of the leaves, and take measures to correct mistakes in care:
- Yellow spots indicate sunburn. Remove the pot in partial shade or shade the window.
- Brown tips indicate that the water used for irrigation is too hard.
- Dark spots appear with overspray or watering.
- Leaves dry and curl when the air is too dry.
- With a lack of light, the leaves become thin.
- With excessive watering, the leaves lose their elasticity, and the petioles rot. To get rid of such a problem, disinfection of the roots with Fitosporin and transplantation into a pot with fresh soil will help.
According to the observations of flower growers involved in the cultivation of calathea, this plant is not so capricious. The peculiarity of the flower is that the leaves immediately turn to light and sound, there is a feeling that the plant has a living soul.
At first, calathea care at home seems difficult and tedious. But if you have patience and follow all the rules, an exotic plant with fancy leaves will feel in a city apartment, as in the tropics.
Calathea crokata or saffron: home care, photo
A tropical guest of our window sills, Calathea Crocata is loved by flower growers for its bright bloom in winter. Imagine the orange sun flashing on your window on a cold winter evening, and you will understand why this plant is so popular.
We will talk about how to properly grow Calathea Crocata in order to see its beautiful flowers.
Description of Calathea Crocata
Among her girlfriends in the Marantov family, saffron calathea does not shine with a beautiful pattern of a leaf plate. Her leaves are dark green with whitish symmetrical stripes.
Its main decorative merit is its yellow-orange corollas, which shoot out beautifully from the mass of leaves with tall panicles.
The leaves of the plant are large, up to 30 cm in length. The inner part of the plate is painted in purple tones. The developed root system forms a wide basal rosette, from which shortened stems emerge.
Despite the impressive size of the leaves, the plant looks compact and graceful.
Conditions for successful growing at home
Experienced flower growers attribute Calathea Crokat to unpretentious plants, but beginners should carefully study the conditions for the successful cultivation of this amazing flower.
Airing
Calathea saffron loves to soak up the fresh air, but has a negative attitude towards drafts. She does not need airing either.
Temperature regime
The plant calmly tolerates the summer temperatures of the middle zone. In extreme heat, it is advisable to shade the flower and spray more often.In winter, the temperature should not be lower than 19 ° C. The most comfortable temperature for calathea in summer is +27, in winter - +18 ° С. Sudden changes are unacceptable.
Watering frequency
The plant gratefully accepts frequent and abundant watering. In summer - once every 2-3 days, in winter once a week is enough.
It will be correct to carry out root watering when a container with a flower is placed in a pan with water. For Calathea Crokat, air humidity is also important, which should be 60%.
This means that in winter you will have to maintain the humidity indicator with the help of frequent spraying or special devices.
What to feed?
The main time for feeding a flower is May – September. Complex types of fertilizers are used for feeding. Experts advise taking ready-made mixtures for flowering plants in the store.
Fertilizing is introduced in liquid form, adding to the water for irrigation. The frequency of procedures is 2 times a month. At the same time, the amount of fertilizer is reduced with each feeding. In winter, the flower does not need additional nutrition.
Reproduction of Calathea Crokat
If your pet grows, blooms and develops successfully, then it's time to breed it. New plants can be obtained in several ways: by dividing, cutting and sowing seeds.
If using ready-made soil for planting, add charcoal and coconut fiber to it. The first component will prevent decay of plant roots, the second will improve their oxygen supply.
By dividing the bush
The easiest and most convenient way of plant propagation even for novice florists. It is best to use it when it is time to transplant the flower. An adult plant selected from a pot is examined, disassembled into parts, separating the roots with cuttings and leaves.
The resulting shoots are planted in previously prepared containers with soil, watered and covered with a film. For reliable rooting of beginners, it is necessary to maintain the temperature in the region of 23 ... 24 ° C.
Leaf or cuttings
With this method of propagation, leaves with a growing point and cuttings (or shoots with leaves) 15 cm long are used. The material taken is planted in the soil, watered and covered with a glass jar. Periodically opening and watering, they are waiting for their rooting.
Growing from seeds
It is quite difficult to get the seeds of Calathea Crokat, it is equally difficult to get them from your own cultivation. If you got hold of seed, then be patient. It will take 1 month to germinate the seeds, and it is not at all a fact that they will all germinate. Experts note that this plant has poor germination.
The process itself looks like this: the grain is deepened 5 mm into the ground, lightly watered, covered with a film and kept at a temperature of 23 ... 25 ° C. Periodically moistening the soil, sprouts are expected to appear.
More about the reproduction of Calathea Crocata:
Reproduction
Seeds
This method is actively used for reproduction of saffron Calathea in a greenhouse or a specialized nursery. It is easier to get good quality seeds directly from the "parent" plants than to take a "pig in a poke" at random from the hands of dubious breeders. However, if you are sure of the quality of the purchased seeds, you can start propagating the plant. To do this, you should adhere to a simple algorithm:
- Step 1: Wait for spring or autumn. It is best to propagate plants during the growing season, that is, in spring or autumn;
- Step 2: Find the right soil. The soil should be slightly acidic and consist of peat, humus, sand and leafy earth in a ratio of 1: 1: 1: 2;
- Step 3: Seed selection. There are two ways to get seeds: buy ready-made in the store or get seeds from the "mother" flower. In calathea, the seeds are in the ground and are small balls. Before planting such seeds, they should be disinfected in a solution of potassium permanganate: per 100 ml 1 gram of potassium permanganate;
Advice! To allow the soil to pass air into it, mix perlite well. - Step 4: Plant the seeds in the substrate, water abundantly without deepening;
- Step 5: Cover with foil or glass, place in bright sun;
- Step 6: Periodically raise the "greenhouse" and spray with water from a spray bottle to keep the ground slightly damp;
- Step 7: Periodically ventilate the seedlings;
- Step 8: After the appearance of seedlings with two true leaves, place the sprouts in partial shade, constantly spray, maintaining the temperature at 22-25 degrees;
- Step 9: Distribute young, grown calatheas in separate small pots.
Cuttings
- With the help of a pruner, it is necessary to separate a stalk 11-15 cm long from the mother plant, cutting it so that two or three leaves remain on it. A healthy shoot should be chosen, without mechanical damage or damage by diseases and pests;
- Place in a small ceramic or plastic pot of your choice. The main thing is that the soil is moist, and the top of the plant is covered with a glass jar or a plastic bag the size of the pot, respectively. This will create a mini greenhouse. If you cover with a glass jar, then once a day you need to ventilate the cutting. In a plastic bag, it is enough to make several holes for air to enter;
- The film is removed only after one new leaf appears on the plant;
- Further, the rooted young plant must be looked after according to the standard scheme.
Types of kalata with photos and names
Below will be described those types and varieties of calathea that are most popular with flower growers.
Calathea bachemiana
This species, whose homeland is Brazil, is considered the most unpretentious of all. The bush has no stems. The length of the leathery lanceolate leaf plates is about 40 centimeters, they are painted in a silvery-green hue, and they are decorated with a dark green pattern, which is located along the central vein.
Calathea makoyana
The homeland of this species is also Brazil, the bush can reach a height of about half a meter. The length of the wide-oval foliage is up to 20 centimeters, and the width is about 10 centimeters. The front surface of the plate is white, almost transparent; it is decorated with deep green veins and pale red spots, as well as a pattern consisting of dark green stripes.
Calathea picturata
Oblong leaf plates in length reach about 20 centimeters, they have a strip of greenish color along the edge, and the median vein is painted in the same shade. The central part of the plate is dark green.
Calathea leopardina
The height of such a stemless bush can vary from 0.4 to 0.5 m. The shape of the greenish leaf plates is oval-lanceolate, their width is from 3 to 4 centimeters, and their length is from 10 to 12 centimeters. They are decorated with dark green elliptical specks, which are interconnected by a median vein.
Decorated calathea (Calathea ornata)
The native land of the species is the Colombian humid forests. A low-growing bush reaches a height of only 15 centimeters. The oval foliage is about 20 centimeters long and about 5 centimeters wide. The front greenish-yellow surface of the leaves is decorated with lines of pink and silver shades, and the seamy surface is purple. The species has such varieties as: Calathea ornata roseolineata and Calathea sanderiana.
Calathea crocata
The front surface of the foliage is dark green, and the back is almost brown. If you provide the species in indoor conditions with a long daylight hours (about 10 hours), then in January-February the bush will bloom. Appearing spectacular inflorescences can be colored orange or deep yellow.
Calathea warscewiczii
The species has a spectacular velvety foliage, which has a greenish pattern on the front surface along the central vein, while its underside is purple. During flowering, very showy white, cream or pink inflorescences are formed.
Calathea striped or zebra-like (Calathea zebrina)
A plant native to the tropical part of Brazil. The shape of the leaf plates is elliptical, they reach 40 centimeters in length and up to 15 centimeters in width. The seamy surface of the leaves is pale red, and the front is dark green, and it is decorated with greenish feathery stripes.
Calathea veitchiana
The height of the bush is about 0.9 m.Smooth foliage has an oval shape, it reaches about 30 centimeters in length and up to 10 centimeters in width. The dark green upper surface of the plate is decorated with greenish-yellow stripes, and the purple lower surface is decorated with yellow stripes.
Calathea rufibarba
The species received this name, because on the seamy surface of the monophonic foliage and on the petioles there is a pubescence of a red color. Elongated leaves have a slightly wavy edge. There are varieties:
- Blue Grass - both foliage surfaces are green;
- "Wavestar" - the seamy surface of the foliage has a lilac color.
Florists also cultivate such species as: Calathea Litze, Orbifolia, "Queen of Maui", Lubbers, medallion (roseopicta), wonderful (lanceolate), etc.
Diseases and pests
Calathea crokata is often affected by spider mites. It is not so easy to notice it, so the plant needs to be carefully inspected regularly. For prophylaxis - wash periodically with soap and water. In case of infection, treat with insecticides. Another pest of calathea affects the scale insect, thrips. Confidor and Fitoverm will come in handy to fight them.
Also, one of the most common problems that growers face when growing this plant is the leaves dry or darken (described in detail here). This happens from improper watering and low humidity. This also happens if too hard water is used, which contains a lot of calcium.
Calathea crokata, although it is a capricious plant, but it fully compensates for this drawback with beautiful, abundant flowering and decorative leaves. And any skills are acquired with experience. Get such a beauty on your windowsill, and she will certainly delight you with her appearance.
This video talks about calathea and shows how you can try to save a diseased plant.
Reproduction of calathea at home
There are 3 ways of reproduction of calathea: seeds, cuttings, root division. The first option is laborious and long, the last one is more often used at home. Reproduction by dividing an adult bush into several parts and cuttings retain the varietal qualities of the culture.
Cuttings
Calathea cuttings
When grafting from an adult bush, calatheas cut off shoots 12-15 cm long with a growth bud on the stem and several leaves. Then they act like this:
- The place of the cut is covered with a crushed tablet of activated carbon for disinfection.
- A soil mixture is prepared from peat and river sand (2: 1).
- Drainage (1/3) and prepared substrate are poured into the pot for rooting the shoot.
- A calathea stalk is placed in the center so that the growth bud is underground.
- Water abundantly, cover with a plastic bag to create a humid microclimate.
- Place the pot in a bright, warm place (t - 25-28 ° C).
- Cutting care provides for timely watering. The soil in the pot should be constantly moist, but not waterlogged. From time to time, the protective cover is slightly opened so that condensation does not accumulate on the film.
- When the cutting takes root, it is transplanted into a pot (the soil composition is the same as for an adult crop).
By dividing the root
Division of the root of calathea
By 3-5 years, an adult calathea forms several isolated rhizomes. Their stolons store nutrients and water. This property of the culture is used for reproduction. Step-by-step instructions for dividing the calathea bush:
- Treat the blade of a well-sharpened knife with an alcohol-based solution.
- Divide the bush into several parts by cutting off parts of the rhizome with stolons.Each section should have a bud of growth, several leaves.
- Sprinkle the cut sites with crushed activated carbon.
- Plant the cuttings in prepared pots with soil (the composition is the same as for rooting cuttings).
- Water abundantly.
- Cover the shoots with a plastic bag.
- Care is the same as for planted cuttings.
- Transplant into the soil with the composition for an adult bush when 2 new leaves appear.
Seeds
Seed propagation
When propagated by seeds, Calathea does not retain the varietal characteristics of the parent culture. This laborious process is interesting in that 100% of the result is a flower with a set of new varietal traits. At home, this method is used only by experienced florists. More often seed reproduction is used by breeders to develop new varieties. The germination rate of calathea seeds at home is very low, even with careful care of the seedlings.
Stages of seed propagation of culture:
- Collect seed in the fall.
- Tie the wilted flowers with gauze so that the seeds do not crumble.
- Cut off the peduncle after complete drying.
- Gently remove the seeds, dry them in the open air.
- Lay in a well-moistened soil (composition as for cuttings) to a depth of 1 cm every 2 cm from each other.
- Cover the planting container with plastic wrap. Make punctures in it with a needle for air intake.
- Place the container in a well-lit place (temperature - 25-28 ° C).
- Make sure that the soil is constantly moist.
- When a couple of leaves appear, pick and transplant seedlings. The soil should be of the same composition, and the distance between the shoots should be 5-8 cm.
- Keep the seedlings under the foil for the first 2 weeks, then open them for a short time to acclimatize.
- Transplant each calathea sprout, when it reaches 10-15 cm in height, into a separate pot with soil mixture for adult plants.
Home care
This flowering plant needs proper care. This is a rather capricious flower, which will immediately lose its decorative appeal in case of errors in the content.
Lighting
The plant needs long daylight hours (8-10 hours). It is better to choose a bright place for a flower, but burns may appear on the foliage from bright and direct sunlight.
Therefore, it is preferable to grow the flower on the eastern or western windowsills.
Watering
Calathea saffron is demanding on the humidity of the surrounding space. At low rates of this parameter, it will not only not bloom, but its leaves will dry, curl, fall off.
You will have to spray the plant every other day, wipe its foliage with a wet sponge, set the pot on a tray filled with wet pebbles.
Top dressing
In the warm season (from mid-spring to autumn), the flower must be fertilized every two weeks; in the cold season, fertilizing is applied once a month. For saffron calathea, you can purchase any universal fertilizer focused on flowering species.
Temperature
For a heat-loving plant, optimal conditions are + 18 ... + 25 degrees. At the same time, it cannot be placed on a window that is opened for ventilation, since the culture does not tolerate drafts.
In winter, calathea is able to exist at low temperatures (8-10 degrees), but it needs to be watered less often.
How to make calathea bloom?
Calathea crocata, if provided with ideal conditions, in the middle of winter dissolves fragrant orange or yellowish flowers of an unusual shape.
For the plant to bloom, it needs a preparatory period. In mid-autumn, the daylight hours are reduced to the flower to 10 hours.
To do this, after 18.00 and until the morning, the specimen is covered with a black (dark) bag, necessarily large, so that the polyethylene does not come into contact with the foliage. This is how the houseplant is kept until mid-winter, until it begins to lay buds.
