Features of calathea
Calathea differs from many other plants in its spectacular foliage, but it also has other characteristic features. Most species of calathea have underground stems that form a superficial root system, it is from it that rosettes grow, consisting of large oval-shaped leaf plates, their length varies from 0.3 to 0.4 m.The leaves have long petioles. The height of the bush can vary from 0.7 to 0.9 m. During flowering, flowers are formed on the plant, which do not represent any decorative value. However, Calathea Varshevich and Calathea saffron bloom quite effectively, their unsightly flowers are hidden behind spectacular bracts, which can be painted white, pink, cream or orange.
When grown in indoor conditions, calathea is distinguished by high demands on conditions of maintenance and care. But there are species and varieties that are less demanding than others. So, it is easiest to grow such species as indoor calathea, decorated, Makoya, striped, Veicha (Vicha), etc.
Like the rest of the representatives of the Marantovaya family, the calathea has one feature - in the evening, its foliage folds and rises, like the palms of a praying person. In the morning, the leaf plates are lowered and straightened again. Calathea, like its related arrowroot, is also called the "prayer flower".
Types of stocks with photos and names
Star-shaped stapelia (Stapelia asterias)
This stunted plant reaches a height of only 20 centimeters. The stems are most often colored green, but they can also be light red, with small teeth on their blunt edges. On the surface of brown-red flowers, thin yellow stripes are located, as well as pale pink thick hairs. The flowers are on long stalks at the base of young shoots. This species has a variety - the staple is shiny: it does not have yellow stripes on the surface of the flowers.
Giant Stapelia (Stapelia gigantea)
This succulent is a perennial plant with powerful erect stems, reaching 20 centimeters in height and 3 centimeters in diameter. The shoots have blunt edges and a small number of small denticles. The flowers are very large, they can reach about 35 centimeters in diameter. They are located on long pedicels and have elongated, pointed slightly bent yellowish petals of a triangular shape, thick red hairs are located on their surface, and long white villi along the edge. The smell of such flowers is not as unpleasant as that of other types of staples.
Stapelia variegated, or varying (Stapelia variegata)
The height of such a low-growing plant is only 10 centimeters. The stems are most often green, but there are also pale red, teeth on their blunt edges. One or up to 5 flowers can be placed at the base of young stems. The yellow petals have an ovoid, pointed shape towards the tips. Their outer part is smooth, and from the inside they have a wrinkled surface with asymmetric specks or dark brown stripes. Flowering is observed in the summer.
Stapelia glanduliflora
The height of this perennial is about 15 centimeters. The thickness of straight stems is about 30 mm, they have wing-shaped edges, which are covered with sparse small denticles. On the bush, 1-3 flowers bloom on long pedicels, yellow-green petals have a triangular pointed shape, pinkish spots and stripes are located on their surface.At the edges, the petals are slightly bent and have long white hairs, and their surface is strewn with a large number of clavate colorless hairs.
Stapelia golden-purple (Stapelia flavo-purpurea)
The height of the bush is about 10 centimeters. The color of the stems, as a rule, is green, but it can also be purple, they have blunt edges on which the teeth are located. On the tops of young stems 1-3 flowers bloom, their petals are ovoid, pointed and triangular in shape, their edges are strongly curved. Outside, the flower is yellowish, glabrous and smooth, and from the inside - yellow-golden (sometimes burgundy) and wrinkled. This flower has a rather pleasant waxy smell.
Stapelia grandiflora
This perennial has tetrahedral stems, and sparse curved teeth are located on the edges. In large flowers, the petals are lanceolate, outside they are painted green-blue, and inside - burgundy, on their surface there are bunches of gray hairs. The petals are bent along the edge, and on them there is pubescence in the form of cilia. Flowering occurs in the summer. The smell of flowers is similar to that of rotting meat.
Stapelia mutabilis
This hybrid plant has powerful bare stems, reaching a height of about 15 centimeters, they have teeth that are directed upwards. The flowers are arranged on long stalks. The shape of the brownish-yellow petals is triangular-ovate, their edge is ciliate. They also have pointed tops of brown color, covered with transverse stripes and dots.
I have blossomed Stapelia.
Flower propagation
Calathea is propagated at home in three main ways. Reproduction by division requires the least time and effort.
Division of roots
Adult plants older than 3-5 years independently form several rhizomes that are practically isolated from each other, which are easy to finally separate during transplantation. Usually 3-4 new calatheas can be obtained from one plant.
Adult calathea reproduces successfully by dividing the bush, but this method is not suitable for all species
Procedure:
- The main thing when dividing is not to damage the roots. To do this, they are cut with a sharp knife, disinfected in a saturated purple solution of potassium permanganate.
- All sections are sprinkled with crushed activated carbon.
- New plants are planted in small pots filled with peat mixed with coarse river sand in a 2: 1 ratio.
- After transplanting, the soil is watered abundantly with cool water. The next watering is only after the soil is completely dry.
- The pots are placed in plastic bags that are loosely tied. Another option is to make several holes in them.
- The containers are placed in a warm place (25-28 ° C) until 1-2 new leaves appear.
- Then the plant is transplanted into a pot that is slightly larger in diameter (literally 2-3 cm) and placed in a permanent place. The composition of the soil is the same, but with the addition of humus in an equal amount with peat.
- After a year, the calathea is transplanted again and looked after, like an adult plant.
Cuttings
A somewhat more time-consuming method is cuttings. A healthy leaf or part of a shoot is carefully separated from the flower, making sure that there is a growing point on it. A correct stalk should be at least 12-15 cm long and have a minimum of 3-4 leaves.
For subsequent planting, it is important to choose the right cuttings.
The stalk is placed in a prepared pot with the same soil, which is prepared for calathea, propagated by division, and covered with plastic wrap. They remove it only when the plant has 3-4 roots.
Seed planting
Seed propagation is a process with unpredictable results. In this case, daughter plants with almost 100% probability will not retain their varietal characteristics. But it is very interesting to wait for the result of the selection carried out by himself.
Calathea seeds look like small yellowish balls
Seeds are harvested in the fall, after waiting until the flower stalks of the calathea are completely dry. They are dried in the open air for a couple of hours and planted in shallow containers filled with a mixture of fertile soil and river sand in a 2: 1 ratio. The optimum temperature for calathea seeds is 22–25 ° C. As soon as the first pair of leaves appears, the plants are planted in small pots (7-9 cm in diameter) filled with the same soil.
Reproduction of calathea
The plant reproduces in three ways:
1. The easiest way is to divide the bush. This can be done when transplanting it by dividing the plant into several parts. When each of them has a growing point and a good root system, then the bush will definitely take root. Sprinkle the damage that occurs when dividing the bush with charcoal.
2. Cutting does not always end with success, because, having a growth point, the rhizome still needs to grow. Place the cutting in a damp substrate and cover with a transparent cap, creating a greenhouse environment for it. Remove the ventilation hood daily. Just like cuttings, leaf propagation is performed.
3. Seed propagation is the most difficult method of propagation. Seeds usually do not germinate well and seedlings do not grow very well. Seeds must be disinfected in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate. Then sow them on the surface of the soil, cover with transparent film or glass and place in a semi-dark warm place.
Before emergence, regularly ventilate and moisten the soil. If you place the container in a florarium, where all the necessary parameters are observed, then for seedlings this will be the optimal solution.
When sprouts appear, they need to be cut into separate containers, and rooted plants in permanent pots.
About caring for Calathea:
Temperature: The optimal temperature for Calathea in summer is 16-24 ºC, and in winter the temperature should not drop below 16 ºC. There should be no strong variation in temperature at night and during the day. Calathea belongs to heat-loving plants, but it is not recommended to place it next to batteries or heaters in winter. In summer, it can be affected by the cold air currents of the air conditioner, so it should not be placed under or in critical proximity to air conditioners. Calathea is afraid of drafts and hypothermia of the root system. In summer, it can be taken out onto a balcony or terrace, while it is necessary to protect it from direct sunlight, wind and precipitation.
Calathea bachemiana.
Lighting: Calathea needs bright diffused lighting and a table 2 meters from the west or south window is suitable for her, it also develops well on the north window, since the plant is not demanding on lighting and is considered shade-tolerant.
Watering: Should be regular and abundant. Watering is necessary with warm soft settled water. In summer, watering should be carried out only after the substrate in the pot is almost completely dry. In winter, watering is reduced, but it is not worth bringing the substrate to complete drying and watering is necessary once every 2 weeks. The soil should dry out between waterings. After watering, the water from the pallet must be drained. Excess water in the soil can lead to root rot.
Calathea crocata.
Air humidity: Calathea is demanding on air humidity and for her daily procedure should be spraying, like fog, leaves with soft, settled water in the morning and evening, especially if the plant is kept in a room with dry air. Types of Calathea with velvet leaves it is not recommended to spray directly on the foliage, for them only the air around is sprayed. Regular spraying will preserve the decorative effect and improve the well-being of the plant. In order to increase the humidity, pallets with wet expanded clay can be used. In this case, the bottom of the calathea pot should not touch the water. It is useful to spread wet sphagnum on the soil surface.It is necessary to clean the leaves from dust and periodically arrange a shower for the plant, but make sure that the drops after the shower do not remain on the foliage.
Calathe warscewiczii.
Fertilizers: It is necessary to fertilize in spring and summer 2 times a month, and in winter, watering can be reduced to 1 time in 2 months. Fertilizers must be applied in half dose, as the plant is very sensitive to all types of fertilizers. Further, for feeding, complex fertilizers are used for decorative deciduous plants.
Soil: For Calathea, soil for decorative deciduous plants, a universal substrate, is suitable. You can use special soil for Marantovs. Be sure to add charcoal, coconut soil and pine bark to the soil. There should be a lot of loosening components. It is undesirable to add perlite to the substrate, because it contains fluoride, which has a negative effect on the plant. A good wide drainage layer is needed at the bottom of the pot.
Calathea ornata.
Transplanting: The plant is very painful to transplant. A young specimen of Calathea is transplanted once a year in order to accelerate the development of the plant, and adults only once every 2-3 years by the transshipment method. The pot should be wide and not deep and 1-2 cm larger than the previous one. When transplanting, it is recommended to wrap the roots of the plant with sphagnum moss. It is not recommended to compact the soil too much. After transplanting, the plant is not fertilized for a month. If the transplant is not carried out, it is recommended to replace the top layer by adding fresh substrate.
Pests of Calathea. It is damaged by spider mites, thrips, mealybugs and scabies.
Calathea veitchiana.