How to grow a lily from seeds? 19 photos Breeding rules. What do seeds look like? What varieties to grow at home

Growing lithops from seeds

It is quite simple to grow lithops from seeds at home on your own, for this, you just need to adhere to some recommendations and tips.

Sowing is best done in March, the substrate for planting "living stones" should be poor in mineral composition, but include several main components: brick chips, sod or leafy soil, quartz sand, peat or clay. It should be dominated by sand and brick battle, and the remaining components are taken in equal proportions.

After preparing the substrate, it is steamed (poured with boiling water), mixed thoroughly and re-loosened. When falling asleep in a pot, first of all, a drainage layer is formed from fine gravel or pebbles, and only after that the substrate is placed in it.

Immediately before planting, the seeds must be soaked in water for 6-8 hours. During this time, the seed is saturated with moisture and opens, which significantly increases the germination and growth rate. Sow seeds wet, without drying.

Lithops, reproduction of which is carried out without preliminary soaking of the planting material, as a rule, show a lower germination rate.

It is necessary to sow lithops on the surface, without sprinkling or mulching the seeds. Immediately after that, the container with the seedlings is tightly covered with glass or garden film and placed in a warm, well-lit place, thus creating greenhouse conditions close to the natural habitat of "flowering stones".

After that, the success of the cultivation and development of young lithops at home depends entirely on the correct care.

Temperature conditions are very important for seedlings. So, the temperature + 25 ... + 30 ° С, necessary for lithops in the daytime, at night should be replaced by a lower and softer - + 15 ... + 18 ° С. In this case, every day the container should be opened for 5-10 minutes.

It is necessary to moisten the soil with seedlings only if it dries completely and exclusively by means of a spray, as a normal jet will "clog" the seeds, which will slow down their growth.

Seed germination and the first emergence of seedlings can be expected within 7-10 days after planting.

With the emergence of seedlings, the frequency and time of airing the pot should be increased (4-5 times a day for 10-15 minutes). At the same time, you need to make sure that the container with sprouts does not stand in a draft. The greenhouse conditions for the emergence of "live stones" must be maintained, but the air in the greenhouse must not be overheated above +40 ° C. Lithops also need to be protected from direct sunlight.

When the size of the seedlings of "flowering stones" reaches 1 cm in height, the surface of the planting soil must be carefully mulched with small pebbles. At this time, it is permissible for prevention to treat the soil with a weak solution of potassium permanganate in order to protect the plant from moss and mold.

Despite the possible difference in the growth rates of individual lithops, with proper home care and the creation of the required conditions, within six months after planting, the plant begins to change leaves. During this period, it is necessary to sharply reduce or completely stop watering, which can be restored only after the old leaves die off.

It is advisable to plant "flowering stones" for the first time not earlier than a year after sowing

At the same time, it is very important that the composition of the soil in the new place does not differ much from that in which the plant was originally located, and the volume of the pot was sufficient for the growth of the root system. It is best to survive lithops in families, because in this case they develop faster and bloom better.

Important! The root system of the plant is extremely susceptible to various kinds of manipulations, therefore, any damage to small or large roots can be detrimental to Lithops. In the process of care and transplantation, it is strongly recommended to treat the roots with trepidation and accuracy .. Lithops is a stunning exotic plant that is increasingly grown at home, like the usual indoor flowers

A large number of people choosing the cultivation of lithops for themselves is easily explained by the originality of the plant and its appearance.

Lithops is a stunning exotic plant that is increasingly grown at home, like the usual indoor flowers. The large number of people who choose to grow lithops for themselves is easily explained by the originality of the plant and its appearance.

It is quite simple to create optimal conditions for the plant - you just need to correctly place the pot with "living flowering stones" and provide them with proper care (watering and fertilization). Such simple actions will help lovers of non-standard beauty to quickly and easily grow lithops at home.

Planting lilies in the garden

Preparing the soil for lilies

First, you need to dig the soil 40 cm deep, and do not forget about drainage. Also apply special fertilizers. If the soil is sandy, it must be diluted with peat, and if it is clay, it must be diluted with sand. For lilies, acidic soil is destructive. A good land is that on which no other plants have yet been grown. The soil needs to be moistened throughout the season.

How and when to plant lilies outdoors

Do not transplant lilies in the garden too often, at least once every four years. It is better to plant in groups of the same variety; it is not recommended to plant one bulb of each type together. It is best to plant lilies in the fall in September. During this period, roots grow actively. A sunny spot is fine, but the base of the flower is best shaded. If the sun hits the plant, they can take on different shades. The landing process itself has the following stages:

the planting depth of lilies is approximately the same as the height of two bulbs;
a distance of about 20 cm between them;
before planting lily bulbs in the hole, you need to fill in gravel, a little soil on top;
the bulb lies in the hole and sprinkled with earth, gently cover with earth, and lightly tamp;
make small indentations and cover with fertilizer.

There are varieties of lilies that do not need to be insulated.
If you need to insulate for the winter, you can use hay, leaves or old branches of raspberries, with a layer of up to 30 cm. As soon as the snow melts, the shelter can be removed. Dangerous plant bulbs in spring, such lilies will bloom only next year. There is a need for good watering. It is better to plant separately from autumn ones. Summer planting should be ruled out altogether - these lilies are highly susceptible to diseases, do not take root well.

Which seeds are suitable

The quality of the planting material is one of the main factors that is responsible for the success of the business. For this, 2 types of seeds are suitable:

collected by yourself;
purchased in specialized flower shops.

Both types produce more viable plants than bulb-grown lilies. They show increased resistance to disease and produce lush, long-lasting blooms.

Home

Seeds for propagation at home are obtained only from early flowering varieties, since the seed pods have time to fully develop and ripen in the middle of summer. Any cold snaps delay this process and have a bad effect on germination.

Collecting should begin when the boxes stop growing in size and shrivel from drying out. They are carefully cut and placed in a bright place, sprinkled with a thin layer to prevent the development of mold.

When the capsules begin to open on their own, the seeds are carefully removed from them.

You can sort out normal seeds from empty ones in this way: place plexiglass over them, over which you run your palm several times.Due to the fact that the plexiglass is electrified, empty lily seeds will be attracted to it. This marriage should be thrown away. The process is repeated 2-3 times. The remaining material will be complete and, when planted, will give a germination rate of about 90%.

Purchased

You can buy lilies for planting in bags in shops for the garden and summer cottages or by ordering them on the Internet. Recently, a very large assortment of hybrids has been offered by Chinese sites, where you can find any colors and shapes of inflorescences. Often, the cheapest lily seeds are ordered from China, resulting in seedlings of cheaper plants or weeds, therefore, it is necessary to purchase planting material only on trusted sites.

When buying, you should pay attention to the expiration date: it is better if the seed was packaged last year, in extreme cases - a year earlier, since germination is greatly deteriorating with each season. In recent years, the abundance of shades and tones of lily petals has increased several times, one cannot find only blue among them.

What is a baby and what is it for

First of all, it is necessary to consider the size of the gladiolus corms. Most of the questions for beginners arise when it comes to an incomprehensible word - parsing corms. This term usually denotes the size and the possibilities of flowering of the bulb following from it.

So, if the corm has a diameter of 3.2 cm and above, they say that it is of the 1st analysis. This means that when it is planted, it will most likely give several powerful peduncles, the color coloring will be as intense as possible, and the corrugation will reveal its full strength.
If the corm has a size of 2.5 to 3.1 cm, then it is called a second parsing bulb and its flowering will also be quite impressive.
When attributing a corm to a size of 1.5 to 2.4 cm, it can be called a third parsing bulb. In this case, flowering is likely to occur with a delay of several weeks, the maximum number of buds on the peduncle is not formed and a smaller number of them will open.
If the size of the corm is from 1 to 1.4 cm, then it is called the 4th parsing bulb. They usually bloom much later and show half the possibilities of those laid down in the characteristics of the variety. Although a lot depends on the care, and even from such small bulbs, you can achieve quite decent flowers.

If smaller nodules form at the base of the gladiolus corms, then they are usually called tubercles or simply children. Children of gladioli, in turn, come in two sizes.

Children of the 1st category grow from 5 to 10 mm, which may well give corms of the first or second analysis.
From 3 to 5 mm - this is the size of very small children, which usually give only third analysis corms in the first year after planting.

That is, the baby is an organ of vegetative reproduction of gladiolus, which appears at the base of the corm at the end of the growing season. It is usually covered with a dense and dry shell that protects it from all external influences.

Important! Children of gladioli, in contrast to mature corms, are remarkably stored in winter, their safety and germination often reaches 100%.

So, children of gladioli have three main and very important functions:

Maintain and update the existing collection of gladioli.
If you want to significantly increase the number of plants grown, (for example, for sale), propagate them with the help of children.
Adapt the newly acquired varieties of gladioli to the conditions of your garden, because it is the cultivation of gladioli from children that allows you to get plants that are most resistant to various diseases and are best adapted to a new place.

Preparing seeds for stratification

Now you need to extract the seeds themselves from the fruits. In magnolias, the seeds are surrounded by a red oily shell (scientifically - sarcotest). This shell prevents the seeds from drying out.Dried magnolia seeds lose their germination. That is why do not buy dry seeds, they must be either in their natural shell, or packed in something moist.

The next step, perhaps, is not entirely pleasant - we cleanse the seeds from this very juicy shell (sarcotests). The easiest way to do this is with your nails.

Cleaned magnolia seeds should be rinsed in water and liquid dish detergent. This is necessary in order to wash off the remnants of the oily liquid that protects the seeds (it prevents their germination).

Magnolia fruits. Igor Bilevich We clean the fruits of magnolia. Igor BilevichWe wash the peeled seeds. Igor Bilevich

How to keep lilies in winter

But if you have very cold winters or varieties that do not like the cold at all (candidum, royal lily), then they need to be dug up and stored in a place with fresh air, moderately humid, but also moderately dry, the storage temperature should be cool, but not below zero.

Before storage, remove the substrate from the bulbs and dry them. Peat is poured into a storage container, and on top of it the bulbs, then again covered with peat. So the container is filled with balls by 2/3.

Alternatively, the bulbs are placed in a bag of raw peat. The bag is tied so that air remains, and placed in a dark, warm place. Babies should appear in a couple of months. After their formation, the bulbs are planted in peat pots, so that the top of the scales is above the peat.

Home cultivars

If you are going to plant a lily at home and grow it in a pot, it is recommended to opt for short plants. Asian and Oriental hybrids are presented in the form of short and compact shrubs, which are ideal for growing in apartments. The maximum height of such lilies is 80 centimeters.

Despite the small growth, the above varieties are characterized by large flowers. Their sizes vary from 12 to 20 centimeters in diameter and even more. There is a wide variety of colors to choose from, from bright and saturated to dark and light shades. In addition to the buds of amazing beauty, you get a pleasant aroma.

Asian varieties look attractive. The sizes of flowers of such species are from 7.5 to 10 centimeters in diameter. These types of lilies are devoid of aroma, which is a significant advantage for many flower growers. The choice of colors is also varied.

Let's consider the most popular varieties.

Spring Romance. Strong flowers with a maximum diameter of over 20 centimeters. The height of the hybrid species is from 50 to 60 centimeters. The petals are colored in a single color and are covered with small dark red spots. In the center, the flower is decorated with a pattern in the shape of a yellow star.

Dark romance

The variety attracts attention with its rich, dark pink color of the petals. Closer to the throat of the bud, a burgundy speck is noticeable

The height of the plant is the same as that of the previous species. The size of the flowers can vary from 12 to 25 centimeters.

Fine Romance. Delicate lilies with a soft color, combining powdery pink and white. The middle of the flower is decorated with yellow lines. The diameter of the flowers varies from 18 to 22 centimeters. The height ranges from 40 to 50 centimeters.

White Joy. Asian species with large and snow-white flowers. Plant growth is compact - from 30 to 40 centimeters. The size of the opened bud is about 15 centimeters. The plant is practically odorless.

Sunny Joy. This type of lily will surely attract the attention of gardeners choosing colorful varieties. The petals of this variety are colored deep yellow with a slight red tint in the center. The maximum plant height is 50 centimeters. The diameter of the flower reaches 16 centimeters.

Precious Joy. A bright red lily with double flowers will be a wonderful decoration for your home. The maximum height of the Asian species is 60 centimeters. The diameter of the blossoming bud is about 16 centimeters.

For information on how to germinate lilies from seeds, see below.

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Growing hibiscus from seeds

Propagated by seeds, you can immediately sow in open ground. Before this, it is advisable to prepare the soil in the selected area, taking into account the preferences and conditions of the plant's growth.

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Soil composition

The seeds are harvested in late spring. Ripe pods should be dry and firm to the touch. The planting material is released from the boll of the plant. For seeds to germinate faster, they should be properly prepared before sowing:

on one side, scrape with sandpaper or rub with a nail file;
on the other side, pierce with a pin or make a small cut with a knife;
soak for 2-3 hours in a glass of warm water with 1 teaspoon of aloe juice;
dry on paper or towel.

Sowing in open ground is carried out as soon as the danger of frost has passed. If you do not want to risk it, you can first grow a seedling in a pot in a room environment, and then transplant it to a permanent place in the garden. For this:

seeds are sealed to a depth of 0.5-0.7 cm and sprinkled with earth;
crops are watered with a small amount of water;
The seed pot is covered with plastic or a sheet of glass and left in a well-lit, warm place.

Seedlings will hatch in 2 weeks. The soil is kept moist by watering crops and seedlings that have peeped out every day. Two-month-old seedlings need hardening. To do this, they are taken out daily to fresh air.

Hibiscus transplant

The flower, along with an earthen clod, is placed in a hole and the empty space is filled with nutritious soil. After planting, the soil is tamped and watered abundantly. During this period, the young plant especially needs water and the soil must remain moist.

As it grows, the bush may bend. To help him, from the opposite side of the angle of inclination, drive in a stake and loosely tie a plant to it. The support should not interfere with growth and free movement on a windy day.

Tatiana Pronina, expert

Hibiscus can be grown from seeds at home in a relatively short time. Prepare the potting soil to begin the procedure. If there is no desire or opportunity to buy store-bought soil, the soil from the garden is taken as a basis, which is "diluted" with peat or humus.

If the seedlings have already been prepared by this time, feel free to start planting. If not, you need to germinate it, following the step-by-step instructions:

Seeds are calibrated in shape and size and soaked in water for 1 - 2 days;
The soaked grains are placed on damp cotton wool and germinated in a warm, shaded place;
After the appearance of green shoots, the seeds are planted in small cups filled with prepared soil. They are poured into small grooves with a thin layer;
Sprinkle the planting with earth. The container is placed in a place with a sufficiently high temperature. If you are planting seedlings in winter, you can place them right next to the radiator.

So that the earthy clod does not dry out, it is sprayed twice a day from a spray bottle. Helps to retain moisture and protective film. It is removed after pecking the shoots through the soil. After strengthening and gaining sufficient height, the seedlings are transplanted into separate pots. Leave only the strongest of them. To prevent the seedling from dying, the first bud is cut off.

Care and watering

Since the plant develops actively and rather quickly, the transplant is carried out every 12 to 18 months. Use a larger pot each time, but do not forget to organize a thick layer of drainage at the bottom. Before transshipment, the branches are cut, and in young bushes they are shortened by half. The standard time for pruning is autumn. Blooming hibiscus is best not replanted.

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In the spring and until the beginning of autumn, the flower is fed with specialized mineral complexes.Occasionally, an organic top dressing based on a liquid mullein is introduced. Indispensable components for hibiscus are copper and iron chelate. Fertilizer can also be applied by spraying, that is, by foliar method.

How to plant lilies in a pot at home?

Before choosing a pot for planting and growing a lily, you must choose a flower variety. Some of them grow up to 1.5 m. You can pick up a variety that grows in a small bush. Depending on the size of the flower, you need to choose a pot.

For a lily, the height of which is about 1.5 m, a pot with a diameter of 18-20 cm and a height of up to 40 cm is chosen. 2-3 bulbs can be planted in such a container. If one bulb is planted in a pot, then it does not bloom for a long time. This is due to free space. Until this space is filled with children, the plant will not bloom.

Before planting, the pot is disinfected. It should be poured with boiling water with the addition of manganese.

For good growth and development, you need to choose the right soil for planting lilies. The simplest choice is a store-bought ready-made earth mix. When self-manufacturing soil, take sod land, coarse sand and humus in equal parts. Mineral fertilizers are mandatory in this mixture. Add 25 g of nitrogen-potassium and magnesium-phosphorus fertilizers to 1 kg of the prepared land mixture.

Difficulties in breeding paulownia

There are certain difficulties with the reproduction of this plant. But, as experience shows, a little patience and everything will work out.

Paulownia can be propagated vegetatively. For example, seating offspring. But they are formed in a tree very rarely and very little. You can try to root green cuttings, but this method is not very productive either.

Seed propagation remains. The problem is that there are regions where paulownia grows and produces seeds, but these seeds do not have time to ripen, and, naturally, do not germinate.

You should be aware that paulownia seeds quickly lose their germination, so they need to be sown throughout the year. That is why paulownia seeds bought at home, in China, often do not germinate - they just have been stored for a long time. For this reason, the very first thing to start with is to get seeds that have germination. Next, I will describe the way how, in fact, I propagate and grow paulownia seedlings.

Requirement for dishes and soil

Under natural conditions, clivia grows on fertile, humus-rich soil. Accordingly, a drainage layer is placed in the pot and a pillow from the substrate is poured:

peat - 1 part;
humus - 1 part;
sod land –2 parts.

Additionally, perlite, or vermiculite and sand is added to the ground for clivia. Superphosphate in granules poured into the bottom of the pot will ensure better root development and abundant flowering.

The pot for transplanting needs to be selected only slightly larger than the previous one. The choice of ceramic or plastic dishes depends on how easily and without injuries the plant is removed. Smooth inner plastic surfaces are preferred for this plant. The conical shape of the vessel will aid in easy extraction of the plant. Drainage holes should allow good drainage of irrigation water.

How to grow lilies in a pot at home

Among the huge number of varieties, those are bred that are adapted for growing in indoor conditions (Figure 4). These include Asian and Oriental hybrids, which form a small number of children, and therefore can grow in one pot for several years.

By growing indoor varieties, you have the ability to regulate the flowering period. To do this, it is enough to correctly determine the landing time and provide the necessary conditions.

Pot selection

Interested in the question of how to grow lilies at home in a pot, you should know that these plants have some peculiarities.

Figure 4. Features of growing flowers in pots at home

One of the prerequisites for the full growth of indoor varieties is the correct choice of a flower pot. To do this, you should know well the characteristics of the cultivated variety, because the higher the flower is, the higher the height of the pot should be. For example, with a stem height of one and a half meters, the planting container should be about 40 cm high.

This fact should also be taken into account when planting a crop in a flower pot, since an excess of free space provokes the production of children by the plant until the entire container is filled. For this reason, it is not recommended to carry out single plantings, but to plant several bulbs.

Caring for a lily in a pot

After planting the bulbs in a pot and before seedlings emerge, it is necessary to provide the plant with a low temperature and water as the soil dries. With the emergence of seedlings, the first soil fertilization with liquid organic fertilizer is carried out. A week later, the second is carried out, but now with the use of a mineral fertilizer saturated with potassium and phosphorus.

Figure 5. Planting and caring for indoor varieties in a pot

It is recommended to spray the sprouts with a growth stimulant twice a week to enable the development of large, bright flowers. When the sprouts reach a height of 10 cm, it is necessary to add soil to the edge of the container. Then they regularly loosen the soil, water it daily, and feed flowering plants every week. Until the crop has blossomed, its leaves can be sprayed for rapid growth and development, being careful not to expose wet leaves to direct sunlight (Figure 5).

Flowering plants need to be sprayed very carefully, trying to avoid moisture from entering the petals, as this leads to a reduction in the flowering period itself. Starting from the age of one month, the plant begins to harden, gradually accustoming it to being outdoors. However, at night, the culture can be outdoors without losses if the air temperature does not drop below +10. With abundant flowering, additional supports are installed in the pot to support the stem and peduncles.

Sowing in open ground

The most frost-resistant varieties and hybrids are sown directly into open ground. This growing method produces very strong and healthy shrubs. Sowing seeds with this method is recommended at the end of October-November.

Planting material is sown sparsely, so that later the seedlings do not have to dive several times. The row spacing should be 20 cm. Plantings for the winter are covered with spruce branches, dry foliage or bark, and in winter they throw snow on the beds.

In the spring, when the above-zero temperature is established, the planting is opened, and already in early or mid-April, the first seedlings appear from the ground, from which adult plants are gradually formed.

In the most decorative and large-flowered varieties, flowering, as a rule, occurs at 5-7 years, and for medium varieties - at 2-4 years. It is worth waiting for this time to get many beautiful lilies, with the help of which you can create an original and bright composition in the garden or on flower beds.

Breeding stages

The process of growing fuchsia from seeds includes several stages, each of which requires a grower to follow a number of important recommendations.

Seed collection

The collection and preparation of seed material is a very responsible procedure, since the success of the entire event depends on the quality of the seeds. So, fuchsia seeds can be purchased at a specialized store, or you can collect it yourself. To do this, as soon as the flower buds begin to bloom, use a cotton swab to collect pollen from the male flower and carefully transfer it to the female flower, lubricating the pistil. In this case, the mother flower is freed from the anthers, carefully removing them with tweezers.

If there is only one bush available, then artificial pollination is performed on one plant. To do this, pollen from flowers of one shade is transferred to the pistils of flowers with other shades.In order to avoid over-pollination of flowers by insects, fuchsia is covered with gauze and await the appearance of fruits. After they have formed, the cheesecloth is removed and the color of the fruit is monitored.

At the first stage, they will have a red tint, then they will turn purple, and at the final stage of ripening they will turn purple.

At this point, they are carefully cut and placed in a dry, warm place to dry. After a few days, the fruits are cut and small light brown seeds are taken out, which look like garlic cloves, only flat

Substrate preparation

The next important step in growing fuchsia from seeds is the preparation of a nutritious soil mixture. You can buy it ready-made in the store or prepare it yourself. To do this, take 3 parts of turf, mix it with two parts of peat and one part of sand, after which it is calcined in an oven at a temperature of 200 degrees for 20 minutes. If the oven was not available, then the prepared substrate is spilled with boiling water or a warm solution of pink potassium permanganate.

This allows the soil to be rid of pathogenic microflora and prevents the risk of fungal infections. Then the substrate is allowed to cool, after which it is scattered over low and wide enough containers with a drained bottom.

Landing

After the substrate is prepared, you can start sowing the seeds. For this, the seeds are mixed with dry sand and scattered over the surface of the soil mixture. Then the planting is irrigated from a spray bottle, covered with plastic wrap or glass and placed in a bright place. The planting is ventilated daily for 15 minutes and moistened if necessary. Germination of fuchsia seeds occurs quite quickly, and after 3 weeks the first shoots appear.

Good results are obtained by planting seeds in peat tablets, previously soaked in warm water. After they swell well, they are laid out in prepared containers and one seed is placed in each of them. Egg cells can be used as a container. The container with the tablets is also covered with a film, periodically ventilated and moistened.

Creation of conditions

In order for fuchsia seeds to germinate quickly and amicably, it is necessary to create a number of conditions for them. So, the air temperature in the room where the boxes with seedlings are located should be from 18 to 25 degrees. In this case, the soil should be in a moist state, however, the stagnation of the liquid is unacceptable. If water accumulates in the seed germination zone, the substrate will become moldy, and the seed will rot before germinating.

In order not to oversaturate the soil with moisture, watering is performed by spraying from a spray bottle or by installing containers in a pan with water. At the same time, the earth absorbs only the necessary amount of moisture for seed germination. If everything is done correctly, seedlings will appear in 20-30 days.

Picking

After 2 full-fledged leaves appear on young fuchsias, the sprouts are seated in separate containers - they dive. As a container, take plastic cups with a volume of 200 ml with a hole in the bottom. A nutritious substrate is poured into them, not forgetting to put a little expanded clay on the bottom, after which sprouts are planted, trying to preserve the earthen lump as much as possible. Preliminarily, the soil of the common container in which the seedlings grew is moistened. The procedure is performed on the growing moon.

After a dive, fuchsia is periodically sprayed from a spray bottle and fed twice a month with the help of mineral fertilizers. If the seedling grows strongly, it must be pinched, cutting off the top and forming a lush and beautiful flower.