Venus flytrap: transplanting, reproduction and growing from seeds

Seed planting

Growing a Venus flytrap in the house is a difficult and not always effective process. Young plants die quickly when there is a lack of light and low air humidity. Seeds are difficult to find on sale, and you can get them yourself only through pollination.

Preparation of planting material

At home, Dionea cannot pollinate on its own; the process must be carried out manually. Features of the conduct:

Wait until the bud opens

Use a moistened brush or cotton swab to collect pollen from the stamens.
Carefully transfer the pollen to the pistil of another flower, being careful not to damage its delicate structure.
Manipulate each flower .. If the ovaries were able to form, racemose fruits appear

Inside contains 10-25 large seeds of rich black color. Ripening occurs after they are harvested from the plant, planting is carried out no earlier than 3-4 months after pollination.

If the ovaries were able to form, racemose fruits appear. Inside contains 10-25 large seeds of rich black color. Ripening occurs after they are collected from the plant, planting is carried out no earlier than 3-4 months after pollination.

Even if you are using commercially available planting material, the seeds need to be stratified before sowing. They are laid out on a rag dipped in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate. Put away for 8 weeks in a refrigerator or other cold place with a temperature of 3 to 5 ° C.

The rag should be kept moderately moist at all times. You can determine the readiness of seeds for planting by the appearance of small cracks on their surface.

Soil and pot

The medium for growing Venus flytrap can only be found in specialized nurseries or from private breeders. As a rule, the soil is prepared for planting on its own. This will require:

• perlite;
• peat;
• moss;
• fine river sand.

All components are mixed in equal proportions. Before planting, the soil should be disinfected with a 1% solution of potassium permanganate.

Pot drain is not used. A small container with a diameter of up to 10 cm is suitable for planting, the optimal height is 12 cm.Experienced growers recommend growing the plant in an aquarium or florarium, where it is easier to maintain high humidity and stable lighting.

Sowing technology

It is recommended to sow the seeds of the Venus flytrap in the second half of February, so that by summer the plants can already be transplanted into separate pots.

For planting, I use a low container with a good tray for regular watering. It is recommended to choose containers made of transparent materials or use an aquarium. Seed planting technology:

1. Place a nutritious substrate or sphagnum moss at the bottom of the container, pour plenty of water over it.
2. Spread the seeds on the surface, do not deepen them. Cover with transparent foil or glass.
3. Place the container with seedlings in a well-lit place. The optimum temperature for sprouting is 24-28 ° C.

The first cotyledonous leaves are formed in 14-40 days, depending on external conditions, the quality of the planting material. During this period, short airing of the soil should be carried out regularly, and water should be applied through the sump and lightly sprayed on the soil to maintain high humidity.

Seedling picking

After the formation of 2-3 leaves, the seedlings of the Venus flytrap should be hardened to strengthen immunity and resistance.To do this, remove the covering material from the container, ventilate it in the fresh air for 5-10 minutes. Hypothermia of young plants should not be allowed, the minimum temperature is 18 ° C.

Transplantation into individual pots is carried out when the sprouts get stronger, 3-5 healthy leaves are formed

The procedure should be carried out very carefully using plastic tweezers, as the seedlings have a fragile root system

Care

The plant requires special care, which is different from the usual care of simple indoor plants.

Watering and humidity

Traditional overhead watering for Venus flytrap is not suitable because it compacts the soil, resulting in less oxygen reaching the roots. Moisten the soil by pouring water into a pan to the level of the bottom of the pot with drainage holes. Dionea is demanding on the quality of water. Distilled, boiled, or filtered water can be used. Plain tap water is not suitable. The water in the sump should not stagnate, so you need to monitor its level.

Venus flytrap needs high air humidity, which must be created in all ways. The easiest way to provide it with high humidity is by growing it in an aquarium or terrarium.

If your Dionea grows in a regular pot, place moistened sphagnum moss on the ground and in a tray. It will retain moisture and increase the level of humidity in the air. In hot weather, Dionea is sprayed daily with a spray bottle. To increase the humidity of the air, you can put several containers with water next to the plant, which, evaporating, will saturate the air with moisture.

"Feeding"

The Venus flytrap does not need to be fed traditionally, since its root system is not able to assimilate nutrients from the soil. Dionea synthesizes many of the necessary elements herself, but she receives nitrogen from her victims. It is necessary to provide Dionea with live insects twice a month. Precisely alive, the dead will not fit. Suitable "lunch" for the Venus flytrap are bees, flies, spiders, ants, slugs and beetles, which can be caught in nature. Please be aware that:

• you can not offer Dionea insects with a hard shell;
• leaf beetles are not suitable as food, because they can injure the trap;
• during the rest period, dionea does not need to be fed;
• you can not put meat or other food products in the trap;
• it is necessary to catch insects of such a size that they completely fit into the trap. If part of the insect looks out, the flaps will not be able to close tightly and the feeding process will not begin;
• if the plant is sick, first it must be cured, and only then start feeding;
• a recently transplanted flower does not need to be fed for the first time, it is necessary to give it time to adapt;
• you can't just touch the leaves. The trap will still slam shut, but the plant will not receive food, and, as already mentioned, after two or three cycles of opening and closing, the trap dies off.

The Venus flytrap feeds on live prey only when it is deficient in nitrogen. At any other time, she pays no attention to insects. The plant refuses to "feed" in any stressful situation: after a change of scenery, after transplantation, under uncomfortable conditions of detention and in case of diseases.

Do not feed the plant too often. It takes about a week for an insect to digest, in some cases two. The older the trap, the slower the digestion process. The interval between feedings should be at least two weeks, you can even "treat" dionea only once a month. You can put your loot in one or two traps at a time. Remember which "traps" you put insects in, and next time put prey in other traps

It is important not to allow an excess of nitrogen, which will make the plant sluggish and provoke the development of the disease.If the flycatcher is on the street in the summer, then you should not be puzzled by feeding - it will find its prey itself

Pruning

In early summer, Dionea blooms, releasing a long peduncle with a snow-white inflorescence that exudes a pleasant aroma. If you are not going to collect the seeds of the Venus flytrap, it is recommended to cut the peduncle, since flowering takes a lot of energy from the plant, as a result of which it cannot fully grow and develop new trap leaves.

Dormant period

In September, the Venus flytrap begins to prepare for the rest period. New leaves stop growing, old ones die off, and the rosette decreases in size. Less water is required, it is drained from the pan, but they do not stop watering, sometimes moistening the soil so that it does not dry out

It is important to water in moderation, if you fill or dry the soil, in the spring the flycatcher may not come out of the dormant period

Description

"Dionea" is scientifically called muscipula, which means "mousetrap" in Latin. It is believed that the scientists who first saw and described this plant gave it an erroneous name. In Russia, this interesting creature received the beautiful name "Venus flytrap", given in honor of the Roman goddess of love and plants. The lifespan of this flower can be up to 30 years, and all these years it looks very impressive and unusual.

On a short stem, there are no more than 7 leaves ranging in size from 3 to 7 cm, collected in a bunch. In nature, this flower grows in swamps with low nitrogen levels in the soil. This lack of the specified substance is compensated by eating nitrogen-containing insects. To hunt them, the plant has leaves - traps.

After flowering, they begin to appear on short stems. The trap is greenish on the outside and reddish on the inside. It resembles a "trap" formed from two leaves. On the edges there are small hairs that resemble teeth. They allow you to close the trap more tightly when triggered, so that prey cannot get out. Inside the trap there are special glands that produce sap, which attracts prey.

The victim goes into a trap to collect this juice. At this time, the smallest hairs feel the presence of prey, and the trap immediately closes. After the complete closure of the "trap" turns into a kind of stomach and begins to digest the victim. After a week of digestion, the trap opens again, and it is already ready for a new hunt. This cycle continues several times, after which the trap dies off.

At home, most often it is possible to grow a Venus flytrap precisely by germinating seeds, but this is not the only way to reproduce this plant. Breeders managed to breed this flower by:

• dividing bushes;
• shoots;
• bulbs.

The bush takes root after the formation of its root system. Until this happens, small shoots without traps can be detached from the main bush and transplanted. The same thing happens with the bulbs, only they are buried by ¾ so that nothing interferes with the sprouts.

What to do for reproduction

There are several ways to propagate this amazing flower, from simple to very complex.

Can be grown from a peduncle

This is the simplest breeding method for Dionea and the most successful.

1. The peduncle, which has grown by 3-5 cm, is cut off at the very ground.
2. We plant vertically in a mixture of peat and perlite, which is usual for Dionea, deepening by 1 cm. You don’t need to cut off the top of the head!
3. Soil, lighting, temperature, humidity - as for an adult plant.
4. The peduncle will turn black and dry, but a young sprout will appear in its place.

An easy way - separation of daughter sockets

This is also an easy way to reproduce the Venus flytrap, moreover, familiar to all flower growers. With age, many plants form many babies that can be separated from the mother plant. Dionea is no exception.

1. We take out the mother plant together with the daughter ones from the pot.
2. We carefully clean the roots and bulbs from the ground.
3. Cut off the baby with a thin sharp knife, which must have at least two roots.
4. Powder the cut points with crushed coal.
5. We plant the plants in different pots.

Dionea, consisting of several outlets, has more strength, it is more resistant to diseases and adverse conditions. Therefore, it is recommended to separate the children no more than once every 2-3 years.

An adult Dionea consists of several outlets

Option: planting a cutting

The method is more time consuming and the survival rate is low, but it's still worth trying.

1. We sterilize the peat in advance (fry it in the oven, steam it in a water bath or spill it with boiling water).
2. We let the peat recover for several days and pour it with a solution of the fungicide in distilled water (Topaz, Maxim).
3. Cut off the leaf at the bulb itself so as to capture the underground white part.
4. We cut off the trap.
5. We keep the cutting for 15–20 minutes in a growth stimulator (Heteroauxin, Ribav-extra).
6. We plant in sterilized peat, deepening the entire white part and a little green, the cutting should be at a slight angle relative to the soil surface.
7. We cover with a jar or put in a greenhouse and transfer to the lightest window sill, the humidity should be very high - almost 100%.
8. If the cutting does not dry out and rot, then in 4–5 weeks the first leaves will appear from the peat.
9. After another 2-3 months, the young Dionea can be transplanted into a beautiful pot.

The Dionea stalk is the leaf from which the trap was cut

Description of growing sprouts from seeds

The most difficult and longest way to reproduce the Venus flytrap is growing from seeds. Freshly harvested seeds almost do not germinate, so stratification is needed. Still, we will try to germinate the seeds, even though it is not easy.

Stratification will help seeds germinate

1. We moisten a tissue napkin or cotton pads in a Topaz or Maxim solution, squeeze out excess water.
2. We wrap the seeds in a napkin or put them between cotton pads and pack them in a cellophane bag with a lock or a plastic container with a lid.
3. We put fresh seeds in the refrigerator (+ 5 ... + 7⁰C) for 4-6 weeks and for 6-8 - harvested 3-4 months ago.
4. Once a week we take out and inspect, when mold appears, we wash the seeds in a Topaz or Maxim solution. In it, we moisten a new napkin and pack the seeds again. The solution is prepared from distilled water at the same temperature at which the stratification takes place.

How to sow and care for young plants

1. We sterilize the peat in advance and water it with a solution of one of the above fungicides.
2. We do not deepen the seeds! They can be gently pressed into the peat and sprinkled with a thin layer of soil.
3. Cover the pot with the crops with a foil or place it in a greenhouse, put it on a warm sunny window or illuminate it with lamps for 16-18 hours a day. Temperature favorable for germination is 25–27⁰C.
4. Seedlings will appear in 2-4 weeks. Don't miss this moment. The sprouts must be ventilated, gradually opening the greenhouse or bending the edge of the film.
5. A young plant will develop for 4–5 months and then freeze. Preparations for wintering are coming. But if it is far from the real winter, during the growth period, one should transplant Dionea into a new substrate, washing the roots from the old with distilled water. This will postpone the preparation for the dormant period, and the plant will noticeably grow.
6. We send for the winter and follow the rules of care in the same way as for an adult flycatcher.

Before the emergence of seedlings, the seeds are covered with a film, and then they begin to ventilate and completely remove the shelter

Transfer

It is best to replant the plant in the spring, when it comes out of hibernation. How to plant a Venus flytrap in a new pot? In this case, the following rules are observed:

Long roots of the plant require deep, but not wide, capacity.

When planting, carefully handle the fragile roots of Dionea, try not to damage them. After removing the flower from the old container, pour water over the roots to wash off the remnants of the old soil.

A new pot is filled with soil, mixing equal amounts of perlite and sphagnum moss, or take two parts of peat and perlite, adding one part of quartz sand.

In order for the plant to take root well, increase watering and do not expose it to bright sun. This will take about a month.

Growing at home

Growing a Venus flytrap at home is a difficult task that requires the creation of certain conditions close to natural ones. However, everything will work out if you treat the plant carefully.

Lighting and location

The Venus flytrap needs a lot of sunlight. Daylight hours should last at least five hours, but it is desirable that the light penetrates thirteen hours, while it is mandatory in the morning and evening, and at noon the dionea can stay in a light shade. In spring and autumn, the Venus flytrap does not have enough sunlight, therefore, additional lighting is organized by installing fluorescent lamps or phyto-lamps.

Window sills of western and eastern orientation are suitable for placing the Venus flycatcher. You can put a pot with a plant on the sill of the south window, but then you need to think over a shading system that will protect from direct sunlight. The north window is not suitable for placing the Dionea, as the plant will not have enough light. You cannot rotate the Venus flytrap, turning it in different directions to the sun - she does not like this. The room where the flycatcher grows needs to be ventilated often because it needs a constant supply of fresh air. At the same time, the plant must be protected from the effects of drafts. In the summertime, dionea can be taken out into the garden or onto the balcony, where she can hunt.

Temperature

Dionea will not be able to live long, being in a room with room temperature all year round. The temperature regime must be constantly adjusted in accordance with her needs. In the spring and autumn, Dionea is suitable for indicators from twenty-two to twenty-eight degrees above zero. In summer, it can withstand an increase of up to thirty-five degrees Celsius. In winter, the Venus flytrap is at rest, so it must be placed in a room where the temperature will be in the range from zero to ten degrees Celsius.

Pot and soil selection

The ideal place to grow Dionea is in an aquarium or any other glass container. It is convenient to maintain the necessary humidity inside, as well as protect the plant from drafts. You can also grow the Venus flytrap in a regular pot. It is necessary to choose a container ten to twelve centimeters wide and twenty deep. The color of the pot is of great importance - it is better to choose a white or light container to avoid overheating of the root system. A tray with drainage holes is required, but drainage itself is not needed.

In nature, the Venus flytrap grows in places with poor soils, so at home it cannot be planted in a nutritious substrate. The root system of Dionea will not be able to assimilate nutrients from the soil, as a result, the plant can get sick. An excellent option would be a mixture of high-moor peat and quartz sand in equal proportions. Instead of sand, you can use perlite, which must be prepared by pre-soaking in distilled water with a double change.

You can make a planting mix using a different recipe by mixing four parts peat, two parts perlite, and one part sand. In nature, Venus flycatchers grow on acidic soils, the pH of which ranges from 3.5 to 4.5.

Planting and transplanting

If you purchased a plant from a store, it must be transplanted into a suitable soil. How to do it?

Remove the dionea carefully from the old container.
Shake off the soil as much as possible from the roots, being careful not to damage them.
Pour a layer of the prepared substrate into a new pot.
Place a Venus flytrap in the center of the container, straighten the roots and sprinkle them with earth without tamping it.
Water the plant and place in a warm, dark place.

Dionea will get used to new conditions throughout the month, all this time it is necessary to water it well and protect it from direct sunlight.

There are no indications for annual transplants if you take proper care of the Venus Flytrap. The soil in which it grows does not get poorer or saline if you water it correctly, so you don't need to replant the plant. However, experienced experts still recommend changing the soil every three years.

Reproduction

The Venus flytrap can be propagated in three ways: by cuttings, growing from seeds and using baby bulbs.

Cuttings

A leaf is cut from the outlet without a trap. The cut is treated with root (or other stimulant for root formation), then the cutting is planted in a container filled with a mixture of peat and sand. The container is covered on top with a plastic bag or glass to create greenhouse conditions inside. The container with the handle is placed in a warm, well-lit place. During the rooting period, which lasts about two to three months, they maintain high air humidity, the required temperature and provide the sprout with sufficient light. After the first shoots appear at the base of the cutting, you need to wait a couple more months before replanting the new plant to a permanent place.

Separation of bulbs

An adult plant has many baby bulbs. The plant can be propagated using these bulbs, separated from the mother plant. It must be borne in mind that the Venus flytrap feels comfortable surrounded by bulbs and reacts negatively to their separation, therefore, Dionea can be propagated in this way only once every three years. The babies are separated from the mother plant, planted in a separate container and covered with foil or glass to create a greenhouse effect.

Growing from seeds

Growing from seeds is a painstaking but interesting process. In the spring, after the appearance of a peduncle with a white inflorescence, it is necessary to manually pollinate, since at home the Venus flytrap cannot pollinate on its own. Take a thin brush, collect pollen from one flower and transfer it to the pistil of another, repeat this process with all flowers. A month after the ovary appears, you will be able to collect seeds, which must be planted no later than three to four months.

Seeds need to be stratified before planting to increase the chances of germination. Wrap the seeds in a cotton ball soaked in potassium permanganate and refrigerate for two months. Moisten the cotton wool regularly. After the prepared seeds must be sown in a container with soil, not sprinkled with earth, but covered with moss on top. The container must be covered with glass and placed in a warm place. For germination, high humidity and temperatures from twenty-four to twenty-eight degrees are required.

After the sprouts appear, they must be hardened. To do this, the glass is removed every day for some time so that the plants get used to the environment. The hardened sprouts can be transplanted into an individual pot.

Venus flytrap is an exotic that is available for growing at home. However, this is a rather demanding plant, so before buying, consider whether you can create all the necessary conditions for its development.

Reproduction of Venus flytrap

This predator reproduces in four ways: by cuttings, by dividing the bulbs, with the help of seeds and a peduncle.

Cuttings

For propagation using cuttings, a leaf is chosen without a trap. The cut is treated with a root root. The stalk is planted with the lower white part at an angle in a container with wet peat or a mixture of peat and sand. Close the lid tightly.They are placed in a well-lit, warm place. High humidity, light and temperature must be maintained throughout rooting. Within two to three months, the first shoots will appear at the base of the cutting. It will take another two to three months before a new pet can be transplanted to a permanent place.

Department of baby bulbs

In an adult plant, many daughter bulbs are formed over the years. The Venus flytrap prefers to grow up in a close family company, next to its children, and noticeably weakens with their frequent separation. Therefore, no more than once every three years, these bulbs can be carefully separated from the mother plant along with the roots and planted in separate pots. Sprinkle the cuts with crushed coal. At first, the seedlings are covered with a film to create a greenhouse effect and kept in partial shade until they take root.

How to grow a Venus flytrap from seeds

In the photo, the seeds of the Venus flytrap

This is the most difficult and, most importantly, unpredictable way to get a new plant. A Venus flytrap grown from seed may not look like its mother at all, since the characteristic features of genes are lost with this method of reproduction. We can get seeds on our own only from an adult Dionea, over two to three years old. When it blooms, you will have to deal with pollination manually. From each flower you will collect pollen with a cotton swab or small brush and transfer it to another flower. This procedure will have to be repeated several times for several days. If pollination is successful, the flycatcher will produce a capsule fruit. In the fall, a ripe dry box will give you seeds, which you can immediately plant in the ground. It is impossible to delay with this for a long time, since the seeds lose their germination over time.

If you bought seeds of any Venus flytrap variety from a store, planting them will be the same as planting your own seeds.

First of all, deal with the preparation of the planting container, substrate, greenhouse. We recommend that you use a container with a lid for planting seeds. Put a mixture of moss - sphagnum (2 hours) and sand (1 hour) on the bottom. Pre-treat the seeds of the flycatcher with Topaz solution according to the instructions. Then spread them over the surface of the damp substrate. Close the container with a lid and place it preferably in a sunny place. If there is no such thing in the room, then find a place under a fluorescent lamp or under a phyto lamp so that the container is illuminated for 12-14 hours a day. The germination temperature of seeds should be maintained within 25 - 30 g. Celsius. Humidity is the maximum possible.

The seeds should hatch within a month, sometimes a little earlier. Moisten the substrate, if necessary, with warm distilled water using a fine spray bottle. When the first leaves appear, the greenhouse must be aired. At first, they open it for a short time - the seedlings should gradually get used to the fresh air and harden. After a month, the lid may not be closed, and after some more time, the grown sprouts will need to be cut into separate pots, 8-10 cm in diameter. These babies will become adult predators in five years.

Peduncle

In the spring, a long peduncle appears on the Venus flycatcher. In a small, 10 - 15 cm tall predator, the peduncle can reach up to half a meter in height. A young plant may simply not overpower such a flowering and get sick. If you are in doubt about the strength of your flycatcher, immediately cut off that peduncle. But don't throw it away. It can be used to breed your exotic. To do this, cut off the peduncle when it is still not very long, about 5 cm. Stick it into wet peat to a depth of 1 cm. Cover with a film or a transparent cap - greenhouse conditions are needed. Rooting will take a long time - one and a half to two months. At this time, monitor the moisture content of the peat, ventilate the greenhouse.The peduncle may even dry out, but you patiently wait for the allotted time. Usually, young shoots appear on time. After another month, you can transplant it into your pot.

Caring for the Venus flytrap at home

How to grow a Venus flytrap

The Venus flytrap can grow both in the garden and on the windowsill, and although the process of growing it has a high degree of difficulty, it is still not as difficult to care for as for some other exotic flowers. How to care for the Venus flytrap at home? First of all, it is necessary to create optimal conditions for its growth and development.

The best place for a Venus flytrap in an apartment is the sills of east-facing or west-facing windows. The plant needs daily sunbathing for 4-5 hours in the morning and / or evening. If there is not enough light, arrange artificial lighting for it.

Venus flytrap at home is often grown in terrariums and florariums, since it is under such conditions that the high air humidity necessary for the plant can be achieved, but in these cases artificial lighting becomes a necessity: a lamp with a power of at least 40 W is placed above the flower at a height of 20 cm and is turned on daily at 14-16 hours.

The plant does not tolerate stagnant air and needs regular ventilation, but drafts in the room cannot be allowed, and the plant should be protected from the midday sun. In summer, the Venus flytrap feels good on the balcony. You do not need to rotate the pot around its axis to achieve uniform lighting, as you do with other flowers, since the plant does not like any movement.

The Venus flytrap feels most comfortable in summer in conditions of 20-30 ºC, and in winter the temperature can drop to 7 ºC.

Watering the Venus Flytrap

The roots of the Venus flytrap are not able to process mineral salts from the soil, therefore they water the plant with soft rainwater, but it is undesirable to accumulate it in metal containers; it is better to use plastic buckets for this. Instead of rainwater, you can water the plant with distilled water. The potted substrate of the Venus flytrap should be kept moist all the time, as the lack of moisture kills the traps.

To moisten the soil, a pot with a flower is placed on a tray with such an amount of water that drainage holes at the bottom of the pot are immersed in it - the flower will itself replenish its need for moisture.

Venus flytrap fertilization

Caring for the Venus flytrap does not provide for the introduction of fertilizers into the substrate, since the plant feeds on insects.

How to feed a Venus flytrap

Do not feed the Venus flytrap with earthworms, beetles in a hard chitinous shell, and gnawing insects that can damage the trap. Do not feed her meat or sausage - this food starts to rot the traps. During the growing season, it is enough for the Venus flytrap to give 2-3 live medium-sized flies, spiders or mosquitoes.

Can't feed Dionea:

• if she is sick or weak;
• if it grew in poor light and in a too humid environment;
• if the plant has undergone a transplant or any other stress.

And from the end of September, insect feeding of the Venus flytrap is stopped until next spring.

Venus Flytrap Transplant

The Venus flytrap is transplanted at home every 2-3 years, and it is better to do this in the spring. The pot for Dionea needs a narrow, but deep one, since its roots sometimes reach a length of 20 cm

Be careful when transplanting because the plant's root system is fragile. Remove the flower from the pot, free its root system from the old substrate, and if it does not come off badly, soak the roots in water for a few minutes

Then rinse the dionea leaves with a spray bottle.

The substrate for the Venus flytrap should consist of four parts of peat, two parts of perlite and one part of quartz sand.Before mixing the substrate, perlite should be soaked in water for a week, and the sand is boiled in a distillate. Venus flytrap does not need drainage. After transplanting, the plant will need five weeks to adapt to the new soil, so place the plant in partial shade and increase watering.

Soil for Venus

In order for the Venus flytrap to delight you at home as long as possible, you must follow certain rules for lighting, watering and selecting soil for planting.

We have already written that in nature a predatory plant grows on poor soils. Therefore, in an apartment, it will also be able to live in similar soils, however, with good drainage. The best option would be a mixture of quartz sand and high peat (1: 1) or a mixture of perlite and high peat (1: 1). Perlite must be soaked in distilled water seven days before planting, changing it twice during this time.

You can also use a substrate in this composition: peat, perlite and sand (4: 2: 1).
It is recommended to change the soil every two to three years.

Important! When choosing peat, it is necessary to pay attention that the natural acidity of the soil in which flycatchers grow is an indicator of 3.5-4.5

How to care for the Venus flytrap at home

Air temperature

Venus flytrap is thermophilic. During the warm season, it feels great in the temperature range of 22-30 ° C, in winter, the indicators are lowered to 7-10 ° C.

Watering

Watering is required balanced: do not allow waterlogging or drying out of the earthy coma, the topsoil should be constantly slightly moist. To maintain moisture, cover the soil surface with moss. Bottom watering is preferable. Pour enough water into the pan so that it covers the bottom of the pot along with the drainage holes. In the hot season, spraying the surrounding space from a spray bottle will favorably affect the condition of the plant.

For irrigation, use purified water: rainwater, distilled, filtered or boiled. Due to the unfavorable environmental situation, rainwater may contain harmful impurities, so it is better to collect and settle for some time, store it in plastic containers.