How to save an orchid if it is frozen? What to do if a flower has frostbite? At what temperature does the orchid freeze

Step by step instructions: what to do?

If such a flower was bought in a store

If it looks like the flower that you bought in the store is overflowed, you need to do the following:

The first step is to carefully remove the orchid from the pot. For convenience, you can slightly dig in the ground at a distance of about 7 cm from the root.
Examine the roots by first cleaning them of damp or, worse, moldy soil.
If you find rotten roots, remove them, for example, with garden shears. Rinse out the rest. If only partial rot is found, then the dead area should also be cut off.
Sprinkle the slices with ground cinnamon (yes, that very seasoning) or crushed activated carbon. This is necessary for disinfection and prevention of disease.
If traces of mold were found, then the plant must additionally be held for several minutes in a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
Leave the orchid in any empty glass container for 24 hours until a crust forms on the damaged areas.
Prepare a new pot. Pour a substrate into it (preferably a ready-made store), and immerse the plant in it so that the roots fit freely.
If you decide to use an old pot, then pre-disinfect it: wash it with soda and soap, steam it and clean it thoroughly.
Sprinkle with soil, but so that it remains airy and light (do not tamp!), And some of the roots and the neck should be visible.

This completes the resuscitation operations. It remains only to provide proper care, preventing re-flooding.

As a rule, after transplanting, the orchid begins to bloom after 2 years.

If the flower was poured at home

Here the algorithm of actions is the same as in the case of the gulf in the store. Let's repeat it briefly:

We carefully remove the orchid.
We cut off the rotten roots, clean and disinfect the remains.
We leave the plant to dry for a day in any empty container.
Preparing a new pot and substrate. We place an orchid in it.

But what if, after removing the rotten roots, they realized that there were no healthy ones left? Then they need to be increased:

We dry the orchid with the treated cut points for 2 hours.
We breed a root growth stimulator and immerse a flower in it for 20 minutes.
After a specified amount of time, take out the orchid and immerse it in boiled water at room temperature with 1 tablet of activated carbon dissolved in it.
Everything. It remains only to wait, periodically adding water. It can be sweetened with honey or sugar syrup, and the plant itself can be treated with growth stimulants. As soon as the roots grow 5-6 cm, the orchid can be moved to its permanent residence in a pot with a substrate.

The stem should not touch the water when growing roots! It must be fixed at a height of 1-2 cm from its surface.

Why has the orchid lost its leaves?

It often happens that the orchid loses its leaves over time. This can happen as a result of a natural process that is common in all plants. In this case, the leaf immediately turns yellow and then dries up completely.

Two leaves can die at the same time, however, you should not worry. Indeed, in their place should remain the bulk of the leaves. In addition, there are some orchids that have an incomplete life cycle. In winter, these plants can completely fall off the leaves, however, the root system will be healthy. Orchid leaves can live up to three years, and in some species, up to seven.

However, it also happens that the leaves die as a result of improper care.In this case, you should immediately start worrying, because the entire plant may completely die.

This happens in some cases, we will consider them in more detail.

Fungal diseases. If the plant is attacked by a fungus, the roots of the orchid are attacked first, and only after that the disease already spreads throughout the flower. Fungi clog all the "vessels" of the orchid, so that the root system is completely wrapped in rot. As a result, neither moisture nor nutrients can get to the leaves. If such a disease is not immediately noticed, then the plant may die completely. The roots are attacked first, and then the leaves fall off.
Incorrect lighting. As a result of choosing the wrong conditions, the plant immediately begins to wither. At first, the leaves turn yellow, wither, and then completely fall off. In the future, the roots also lose their vitality.
Failure to comply with the rules when watering. Many people think that any plant needs to be watered quite often. However, in the case of an orchid, everything must be done the other way around. Water the plant only after the soil is completely dry. Otherwise, the roots will begin to rot, and the leaves will crumble.
Non-sterile primer. If the plant has been in a pot for a long time without transplanting, then either insects or fungal microorganisms may appear in it. As a result, not only the leaves but also the roots can be affected.

What to do if the orchid is frozen and:

Have all the leaves fallen?

This is a difficult case and here one should not neglect the advice of experienced florists.

To save such an orchid, which has frostbitten all the leaves, it is necessary that a healthy root system and a growing point remain in its presence. Without this, there is no chance to save the flower. With all this, in the room where the plant will be reanimated, the temperature should be around 23 degrees Celsius.

Is the root and growth point ok?

With the remaining parts on the plant, it is necessary to remove all damaged leaf plates using the method described above. It makes it possible to completely remove the affected leaves without leaving even scales on the trunk.

The remaining stump with a growing point is well treated with charcoal to prevent infection from entering the plant trunk.

Dry the plant and plant it in the bark so that only the roots are wet when watering. After a while, the top will begin to grow, or children will go from the sleeping buds on the trunk.

How to save an orchid?

If you find that the orchid has frozen at low temperatures, an urgent need to reanimate the frozen flower. Carefully inspect the plant and assess the consequences of freezing, whether it can, in general, be saved and revived after receiving frostbite. If you notice the affected areas in the form of wet wounds on the outside of the leaves, then you should react quickly so as not to lose the whole plant. When restoring, you do not need to be too zealous so as not to harm the plant.

Do not allow flowers to be resuscitated:

no mechanical stress;
using contrasting temperatures for recovery;
warm baths and watering;
falling on the leaves of bright sunlight.

If the leaves are frozen and suppuration has formed, it is worth trying to get rid of the affected areas, and sprinkle the joints with ash. Without this, the foliage will turn yellow and completely fall off. But it is worth considering that if the plant was left unattended for a long time after hypothermia, and received significant frostbite, then the stem itself may subsequently become infected.

If the fruit is frozen, then you need to immediately remove it. Usually damage is cut only in the upper part and up to the first leaves and buds. In the early stages of frostbite, the orchid can be quickly rebuilt and even bloom in the future. If the flower is badly damaged and turned into a shapeless piece, then the treatment at this stage will not give positive results.The reason for this phenomenon was a long stay at a low air temperature. When you notice that the roots are frozen, then most likely the plant has already died. But there are times when there is a chance to save the orchid. If you are sure of the vitality of your flower, then it is worth examining the root system and removing the affected areas. After the procedure, it is necessary to treat the open part of the plant with ash and dry it a little before rooting. Now, having examined the root again, make sure that the disease does not affect healthy areas, and feel free to start planting an orchid.

For information on how to save an orchid if it is frozen, see the next video.

Resuscitation of individual parts of the plant

To revive a frozen orchid, you need to focus on the condition of the damaged vegetative parts.

At the same time, the flower can be reanimated if the frostbite area is small.

If the plant is completely frozen, and the entire aboveground mass has become slimy, in most cases it will not be possible to save it.

Root system

Frostbite roots turn black and die off. This is the reason for the malnutrition of the whole plant, without the supply of nutrients, it dies.

At the same time, blackness from the root system will quickly spread to the stem, which accelerates the death of the flower culture.

It is possible to save a frozen orchid if no more than 1/3 of the root area is damaged.

frostbite fragments are cut to healthy tissues;
the sections are treated with charcoal or activated carbon and left to dry completely under natural conditions;
the flower is planted in a fresh substrate and, as revitalization is observed, return to normal care.

Flowering can come only after 2 years. When a peduncle appears ahead of time, it is recommended to cut it off, because it will take away most of the nutrition, and the growth of the required number of roots will stop.

When resuscitating the root system, a frozen plant does not create greenhouse conditions, because high humidity provokes rotting.

Frostbite green mass is not restored. At first, it becomes wet and slimy to the touch, liquid is released from the spots, and later it turns yellow and falls off.

All affected parts must be removed

Leaves with frostbite foci must be removed, especially if they are located near a healthy trunk, so that rot does not spread over the entire vegetative surface.

The exception is small wounds, which can be cut off and sprinkled with charcoal or activated charcoal for disinfection.

cuts are made at the ends of the damaged sheet plates;
the cut is stretched in opposite directions;
the frozen leaf is removed from the trunk;
the place of contact with the stem is sprinkled with charcoal or activated carbon for disinfection purposes.

Such removal helps to get rid of damaged parts without residues, which, under the influence of moisture, can provoke the decay process.

When resuscitating a flower culture, avoid:

the use of contrasting temperature drops;
using warm showers and watering;
placement in direct sunlight for warming purposes.

A flower culture rescued after frost restores its ability to bloom after 1.5-2 years.

The frozen peduncle is cut with a sharp tool to the first bud that has survived frost damage.

When the flower crop regrowth new foliage, the dormant growth point is activated with hormonal paste to stimulate the growth of the peduncle and the beginning of flowering.

If the leaf mass and peduncles after frostbite turn into mucus, then when the apical part freezes, the flower can be revived faster.

The top is cut off, which will stimulate the active development of lateral shoots.

Frostbite leaves: what to do if the orchid is frozen?

With the onset of frost, questions about saving the frostbitten Phalaenopsis orchid have become more frequent.And this despite constant warnings about the need for insulation. So, let's figure out what frostbite of a plant is, and how you can help a beauty in such a difficult situation.

What does frostbitten orchid leaves look like?

The appearance of frostbite on orchid leaves looks like this: wet and slimy spots to the touch. Often accompanied by the release of fluid. Over time, the frostbitten leaves turn yellow and die off.

Plants can freeze not only when transported from the store home, but also at home when kept cold. So, for example, it is enough to hold the Phalaenopsis hybrid orchid at a warm temperature for half an hour at a temperature below +16 degrees, and the frostbite is "ready". For orchids of a cold temperature regime, a temperature of +2 - -1 degrees is destructive.

In winter, orchids often get frostbite during the ventilation of the premises, if a stream of icy air passes through them. Also, in the cold season, orchids freeze the leaves when they come into contact with glass.

What to do if an orchid is frozen?

If the whole plant has become slimy, wet and soft, it cannot be treated.

If spots appear on several sheets, then carefully cut them out with a sharp, clean blade to a healthy tissue, sprinkle the cut with crushed activated carbon (iodine and brilliant green can be used to treat a wound only if a rather large distance remains to the neck / stem).

If the frostbite spots are located close to the stem of the orchid, remove the leaf completely. To do this, we make a cut along the sheet, pull the two halves in different directions and remove from the stem along with the covering scales. All actions must be accurate. To disinfect the wound on the stem of the orchid, sprinkle with only crushed activated carbon.

Next, we take care of the plant as usual. The first watering can be done with Zircon, and 2 weeks after treatment, sprinkle on the Epin leaf. The benefits of Zircon and Epin are written HERE.

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Frostbite and precautions

The orchid is a very delicate but fragile plant. The plant senses a small change in climate very subtly, and reacts instantly if the regime deviates from the usual norms. Frostbite of a flower is damage to the structure of the stem, leaves and root system caused by hypothermia.

In order to prevent unpleasant consequences from the effects of cold on the orchid, you need to exclude possible options

There are basic precautions to take in your daily life

Content next to window openings:

in winter, it is worth removing the flowers at a distance from the window so that they do not get overcooled;
you need to avoid or completely rearrange plants from frequently ventilated areas;
heaters dry the air very much, but it is worth remembering that orchids begin to freeze already at temperatures below 16 degrees.

When moving and transporting, you should also follow a number of important rules.

It is worth covering the plant from all sides in order to avoid the ingress of cold air.
Do not tighten the canvas tightly, because the lack of oxygen increases the possibility of attracting negative influences from the outside.
It is impossible to leave the orchid outdoors at a temperature of 0 degrees in the open form, it will freeze.
Do not shake the plant, it is better to firmly fix it in the car or hold it in your hands during transportation.
It is desirable to cover the plant with paper of dense quality, and cover it with cellophane on top - this option is suitable at a temperature of 0 degrees.Packing of burlap and foam rubber is appropriate for protection at temperatures below 10 degrees. When the temperature drops below 25 degrees, you should refuse to move until warm days.
After you have brought the plant into heat, you need to wait for the flower to accept the new conditions and feel comfortable.

Prevention of thermal effects of external factors:

a sharp effect of different temperatures has a very strong effect on the orchid, and can lead to serious problems: dryness, burn spots, yellowing of foliage;
it is worth excluding spraying and water procedures during cold weather;
Another enemy of growing plants is the air conditioner, which either cools or dries out the room, which adds additional hassle.

It is worth slightly moistening the soil during the dormant period and only the upper part.

How to get rid of mold

A common situation when the roots are not damaged, and there is already mold in the pot. This is perhaps the only case when you can try to do without a transplant by neutralizing the overflow. And then, only if it has already been produced not so long ago, and the substrate is in good condition.

A way out of this situation will be watering with a fungicide solution, which we wrote about above. Mold is also a fungus, and this measure will get rid of it.

But after that, you need to very carefully monitor the condition of the roots. Since the decay process could have already begun, but it was simply not visually noticeable yet. At the first signs of decay, you need to immediately proceed to the transplant.

In summary, the roots of the orchid, as an epiphytic plant, are unusual. They require light and air. They not only nourish the plant, but also take part in photosynthesis. Their surface contains many hollow cells, which resemble a sponge in structure, and, according to the same principle, absorb moisture from the air. And it is their clogging that leads to the death of the plant. Moisture stagnation does not allow them to breathe, which leads to rotting.

We suggest watching a video about saving an orchid:

Causes

Among the main reasons due to which the orchid dries up, it is necessary to note several of the most common.

Failure to comply with the irrigation regime

An incorrect watering regime is one of the main reasons leading to the fact that the orchid begins to suffer from a lack of moisture. Such situations often occur with inexperienced novice growers, who, fearing to flood the plant, try to water it less often than required. The fact that the orchid is experiencing an acute moisture deficit is indicated by a change in the color of its roots. In healthy plants, they have a green color, which provides velamen. Essentially, velamen is a layer of dead cells that covers the roots of plants and prevents them from drying out. In addition, velamen protects the root system from damage. When the roots dry out, caused by insufficient watering, the velamen layer thickens. The build-up of a layer of dead cells leads to a change in the color of the roots.

To prevent orchids from drying out, you should carefully follow the watering regime. The optimal frequency is 2-3 watering per week in summer and 1-2 waterings per week in winter. If the summer is very hot, watering the plants is allowed more often.

Insufficient air humidity

In the tropical jungle, which is the natural habitat of orchids, there is a constantly high level of humidity. At home, flower growers maintain the required level of humidity in the room where exotic plants grow with the help of regular spraying with warm water. Special electric humidifiers also provide a significant help in maintaining a stable air humidity.

The easiest way to constantly saturate the air with moisture is to place a wide container of water next to the plants. In hot weather, water will evaporate from the container, saturating the indoor air with moisture.Orchids will absorb water molecules from the air both with their aerial roots and with their leaves.

Root damage

Injury and damage to the roots is a common cause of drying out of plants. Often, the sensitive and fragile roots of orchids are damaged by an inept or rough transplant. To a greater extent, such mistakes are often made by inexperienced growers. Sometimes root damage is the result of pest activity. One of the most famous is the root worm. Individuals of these pests have a small (2–4 centimeters long), worm-like body of white, gray or pinkish color. Having settled in the substrate, they harm the roots of orchids, as a result of which the plants begin to dry out, and then die.

You can find the parasite by carefully examining the substrate in the pot.

If a pest is identified, the infected substrate is destroyed, and the affected orchid is reanimated by carefully washing the roots in a solution of potassium permanganate. And you can also destroy the pest with a special insecticide, which is dissolved in water and poured into a pot.

Room temperature is too high

Many novice growers who seek to create conditions for orchids as close as possible to their natural environment often make the room temperature excessively high. Exotic plants in such conditions begin to die from the heat and dry out. In addition, an excessively high temperature in the room leads to drying out of the air, which has a detrimental effect on the condition of the leaves and flowers of orchids.

Damage by pests and diseases of plants

In addition to the worm, which damages the roots of plants, other pests can also cause drying of orchids. So, with the defeat of aphids, scabbards and false scutes, exotics begin to dry due to the fact that the parasites feed on their juices. If the orchid begins to dry for no apparent reason, it is necessary to carefully examine all its parts, including roots, peduncles and leaves. Some parasites (flat mite and spider mite) are very small, so they can only be seen through a magnifying glass.

If pests are found, it is required to immediately isolate the infected plant from healthy flowers and take all measures to destroy the parasites. If the treatment is carried out in a timely manner and correctly, then the drying orchid will gradually begin to recover. Another common reason for the drying of exotic plants is root rot, which often occurs when the substrate is swamped.