Reproduction of spirea

Autumn transplant

Reproduction and transplantation concerns young plants that are 4 years old. If the age of the bush is older, then it may be difficult to move too large an earthen coma. In the autumn period, division and planting of spirits is allowed, which bloom in spring and summer, the main thing is to carry out this operation after the end of the leaf fall. The order of work has its own sequence.

• First, the bush is dug in in a circle within the crown. At the same time, you can not be afraid that the root processes that go beyond this line will be accidentally cut off - the spirea will not suffer from this.
• The bush is removed as a whole, its roots must be rinsed by dropping into a wide container with water.
• After the soil particles settle, the rhizomes are well rinsed with a running stream.
• With a disinfected tool, most often a pruner, it is necessary to divide the bush into 3 parts.
• Each division should have strong developed roots and 2-3 stems.
• Small, thin root shoots are trimmed and tangled parts are straightened.
• In a planting pit, dug out by the size of the roots, a mound is made from a nutrient mixture containing leafy soil, sand and peat.
• A sapling is carefully placed on top, all the voids are filled with soil, the near-stem surface is compacted.

At the end of the procedure, it is necessary to water the plant well (2 buckets per bush), and cover the near-stem circle with peat as mulch.

Adult shrubs without division are also transplanted in the fall - this is the best time to move them, of course, after sanitary pruning.

How to propagate plants with green cuttings

A stalk is a part of a plant with one or more buds that is used for propagation. Gardeners are very fond of this method for its simplicity and a large number of seedlings, which can be obtained from just one branch of the parent plant. If you are a big fan of vegetation on the site, but at the same time are not ready to spend all your fortune on it, we recommend that you start propagating plants using cuttings.

Cuttings are green and lignified. Most often, green cuttings are used - these are non-lignified shoots of the current year. They take root faster and take root better in a new place.

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What plants can be propagated with green cuttings? Almost all:

• conifers,
• decorative and berry bushes;
• roses;
• container plants;
• indoor flowers.

Cuttings are carried out as follows.

Step 1

The best time to cut green cuttings is late spring - early summer. By this time, there are already many young, but not yet lignified shoots on the plant. Choose a healthy plant of 5-8 years of age (for slow-growing plants, you can also use two-year-old specimens) and cut off several strong shoots at an acute angle with a well-sharpened knife. The number of internodes on each cut depends on the distance between them: from two to three or four.

Step 2

Cut off the top of the cutting: the top cut should be at right angles. Remove the bottom leaves and cut the rest in half. This will reduce the evaporation area of ​​moisture.

Step 3

Dip the bottom of the cutting into any rooting stimulant (Kornevin, Kornestim or Heteroauxin). If there are no store preparations at hand, you can use their folk counterparts: yeast, aloe juice, egg white, etc.

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Step 4

Dip the cutting into the prepared, moistened substrate. For rooting to be faster and easier, the soil must be light and loose. The following soil mixtures can be used:

• sawdust and peat (1: 1),
• garden soil with the addition of sand (2: 1),
• compost (or peat), sand and vermiculite (1: 1: 1).

Step 5

The rooting rate of cuttings largely depends on the microclimate that you create for it. The following conditions are considered ideal for rapid root formation: almost one hundred percent humidity and high (20-25 ° C) temperature. The easiest way to achieve this is in a greenhouse or greenhouse. If you do not have such facilities, simply cut the plastic bottle in two and cover each stalk with it. Water the cuttings regularly and shade if the temperature is warmer under cover.

Step 6

The rate of rooting differs from plant to plant. For one, two to three weeks are enough, while others begin to grow only after a few months. If new leaves begin to appear from the axils of the cutting, it means that the cutting is alive and has taken root; if the shoot has turned yellow and dried up, it means that it has not taken root - you can throw it away. After rooting, do not immediately transplant the young plant to a permanent place. Let it grow stronger, survive the winter, and only then transplant.

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Step 2. Cutting spirea

Do not rush to throw away or burn the cut branches - they will come in handy if you plan to propagate your shrub. Spirea grows quickly, easily takes root when rooting both green and lignified cuttings, it feels great on most soils and blooms luxuriantly, and therefore it is worth decorating your garden or area in front of the fence with its plantings. In addition, by drawing a spirea, you can save a lot on planting material and become owners of plants with all maternal qualities.

Cutting spirea cuttings

Young, straight branches, with leaves growing from each internode, are best suited for rooting.

They need to be cut into a length of 10-15 cm, but at the same time there should be at least 4 pairs of buds on each cutting.

The lower cut is made oblique and placed under the kidney, the upper cut is straight and above the kidney.

After that, the lower 1-2 pairs of leaves are removed, and the upper ones are cut in half.

Cut cuttings are placed in a solution of indoleacetic or indolylbutyric acid (Heteroauxin, Kornevin, Root Super, etc.) for 6 hours.

Preparing cuttings for rooting

After the cuttings have stood for the allotted time in the solution of the rooting stimulator, they need to be taken out, shaken off and dipped into the stimulator with a lower cut. Powder or granules adhering to the cuttings do not need to be shaken off - this is how they are immersed in the ground.

How to propagate spirea by dividing a bush

This method will have a positive effect if the mother sample is no more than 3-4 years old. The older the plant, the denser the earthen lump in the bark system. It is very difficult to get it out of the soil and wash it without damaging it. Any time of the year except winter is suitable for dividing the spirea. The optimal dates are late summer and early autumn. The main thing is that the soil warms up enough, and the air is moist and not hot.

The division goes like this:

Japanese spirea

1. Dig up a mature plant so that you have at least 60% of the root system compared to the top. Most likely, part of the thick, open and tangled rhizome will have to be chopped off.
2. Wash roots thoroughly. To do this, it is convenient to place them in a spacious container with water for 1 hour.
3. Spread out the root shoots.
4. Divide the bush with pruning shears into 2 or 3 pieces. Each should have at least a couple of strong shoots and a root ball. It is better that the parts are approximately equal.
5. Shorten the roots slightly, update the cuts on them, trimming everything in length.The most important are the cord-like processes, which will ensure the rapid establishment of the plant.

Advice. If you do not wash the rhizome from the ground, then when dividing you can get confused and leave one of the parts of the shrub without a root at all.

To plant the resulting cut:

• dig a hole;
• make a small mound of soil in its center;
• place the seedling in the middle, gently and evenly spread the roots along the sides of the hill;
• fill in the hole;
• Water abundantly several times: in the heat - daily, in other weather - weekly.

Young spirea bush

How to transplant a plant

The hosta transfer is carried out on a cloudy cool day. You will need the actual mother bush, which you will transplant completely or divide, garden shears, sawdust or peat mulch, water for irrigation, humus, a shovel and a dug planting hole.

Soil preparation

Some grow this flower in containers so that they can transfer it for the winter or within the site. But more often the hosts are planted immediately in the open ground, since they are not afraid of frost and do not require complex care. Even without moving to another place, this flower can grow up to 20 years, but after 5-6 years it will constantly lose its decorative effect.

When choosing a place for transplanting, take into account the peculiarities of the flower - it acutely feels drafts, grows well in partial shade. The northern side of the site is suitable, a lowland near an artificial or natural reservoir. Depending on the variety, the plant may require more sunlight, especially varieties with brightly colored leaves.

You can also plant hosts in the shade of taller shrubs and perennials, organize shading with your own hands using awnings, arches, screens. This culture grows well in the shade of gazebos, outbuildings, buildings. You can place it in the shade of hedges and fences.

Almost any soil is suitable for hosta, but it shows more intensive growth in well-drained light soil with a neutral acidity index. To balance acidic soils, you can add lime, add compost.

The ideal soil option is humus loam

But it is important to choose areas where groundwater is low and there is no stagnation, since this flower does not tolerate wet ground. In sandy soils, hosts grow rapidly, but they must be enriched with complex mineral mixtures and humus. In terms of preparation, before disembarking, dig up the area to the depth of one shovel bayonet, add 15 g of potassium sulfate, 20 g of superphosphate and 15 g of ammonium nitrate

60 g of this mixture must be poured into each well.

In terms of preparation, before disembarking, dig up the area to the depth of one shovel bayonet, add 15 g of potassium sulfate, 20 g of superphosphate and 15 g of ammonium nitrate. It is necessary to pour 60 g of this mixture into each well.

Process technology

Transplant technology:

1. When digging the earth, do not forget to remove the rhizomes of perennial weeds from it. In heavy soils, add sawdust with sand, in sandy soils - peat. Additionally, you can add ash. 3-4 hours before transplanting, pour the well with a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate.
2. The size of the hole should be 40 by 40. The depth is at least 50 cm. Leave a distance between the holes, which is calculated based on the characteristics of the variety. For large spreading bushes - at least 100 cm, for dwarf flowers - 30 cm.
3. Put a drainage layer on the bottom of the hole, it can be crushed stone, crushed brick. Lay a layer of humus on top.
4. When transplanting the whole hosta, carefully dig in the root system, leave a large enough earthen lump on the roots, carefully place it vertically in the center of the prepared hole.
5. With simultaneous division, the roots are cleaned, washed, damaged or dried out are removed. Then, for 10 minutes, they are dipped in a slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate to disinfect. After that, they are dried in air for 2 hours, divided into equal parts with a knife.All sections must be sprinkled with ash. Such parts (as well as the entire bush otherwise) are vertically placed in the holes.
6. Sprinkle the seedling with earth so that the root collar does not go underground. In the near-trunk circle, the soil must be trampled down, then it is watered, mulched with peat or humus.

If you perform the procedure in the fall, then immediately cover the seedling with material for insulation in the winter. It is not recommended to use synthetic materials or roofing felt, as they do not allow air to pass through. Experienced gardeners advise you to simply sprinkle the hosts with spruce branches and dry leaves. Before winter, the leaves are removed, leaving 10-15 cm of trunks.

After transplanting, you need to take care of the flower - perform regular watering, loosening the soil and weeding from weeds if the transplant took place in the spring. If you moved the flower to a new place in the fall, fertilizers are no longer applied, shelter is required for the winter.

Weakened, attacked by pests, diseases, with yellow leaves and damaged stems, the plants are not transplanted.

Step 1. Pruning the spirea

All types of spirea tolerate pruning without problems, so do not be afraid to cut the bushes - the procedure will not bring harm to such a plan

Take care of your garden tools, it is important that the pruner is well sharpened

Removal of dry inflorescences

First, carefully cut off the dry clusters of the inflorescences. Often they are thin, and the branches on which the flowers are located are in a dried state. This procedure requires a lot of time, because even young plant bushes dissolve several dozen brushes, most of which are located in the depths of the crown.

Removing dead and weak branches

As soon as the bush is cleared of brown spots, you can take on sanitary pruning. Eliminate dead and broken branches mercilessly - it will no longer be possible to restore them, and pathogenic bacteria can penetrate into the wound.

Weak shoots that grow from the ground itself and go deep into the crown should also be removed. They thicken the central part of the bush, do not affect flowering in any way and in vain draw out all the forces from the plant. Prune them to ground level. Make sure that no buds remain on the surface, otherwise the spirea, instead of releasing one strong, thick branch, will give a large number of weak shoots.

Thinning the crown from the root

As for the formative pruning, then you can start it only when the plant is 4-5 years old. Until this moment, the bush will not have time to thicken very much. The more sunlight hits the branches, the more abundant the flowering will be. That is why the center of the crown must be unloaded in time.

When in doubt about which branches to cut and which ones to leave, cut off specimens that are clearly shorter than the rest, have a lot of branching, and give little flowering. Often, their location is the central part of the bush. You can also focus on their external signs - they have a thicker base. On such branches, you can observe many naked branches, with a small number of leaves.

Spirea care after pruning

Spirea is considered an unpretentious plant, it can be successfully grown even in urban conditions.

But, if your goal is a lush flowering shrub, you need to pay attention and provide it with appropriate care. He does not imply much effort

You don't need to water the plant often. The procedure should be carried out if there is a severe drought (longer than 2 weeks). In hot summers, it is also recommended to increase the number of waterings. Spirea does not tolerate when the sun's rays literally dry up the moisture on the leaves, so the ideal time for watering is evening. In extreme cases, you need to water the plant at the root.

If we talk about weeding, then such a procedure is not considered mandatory. It is necessary to cut the grass regularly, especially if undersized varieties are grown.Sow thistle and wheatgrass can extract most of the nutrients from the bush. Moreover, making their way through the dense crown of the spirea, they become indestructible and negatively affect the decorative qualities of the composition.

It is necessary to apply fertilizers under the bush 2-3 times a year. A complex mineral fertilizer or organic matter is used as a recharge. Spirea perfectly perceives watering with a 10% solution of chicken manure or mullein, infusion of cut grass with bread. It is recommended to cover the trunk circle with a layer of compost. It is necessary to carry out the first feeding of the plant before it blooms (in May), the second - after flowering, the third - at the beginning of autumn. In the latter case, it is unacceptable to apply nitrogen-based fertilizers under the bush.

Spirea care

To achieve maximum decorative features, high-quality care should be provided for the spirea. It must be pruned, giving the desired shape, keeping track of leaves and branches, and also fighting pests.

How to care for spirea

Among the varieties of spirea, there are those that love a lot of light, and there are those that behave better in conditions of a large amount of shade. If we talk about the type of soil, then the soil of a loose consistency with a high indicator of nutrients is more suitable.

In addition to the soil, it is also important to have a drainage layer and 7 cm mulch on top of the ground.

The spirea flower needs regular, moderate watering, because the roots are not very deep. In dry climates, the plant should be watered every 14 days using 1.5 buckets of liquid. It is also necessary to ensure that the soil is loosened all the time and does not have weeds.

Top dressing is carried out in several stages. The first procedure using a complex product with a mineral composition is carried out after pruning. At the 15th of July, a mullein solution with the addition of superphosphate is used for fertilization - 10 grams per bucket of solution.

There is also a small chance of aphids and spider mites appearing on the plant. Pirimor is used to remove aphids, and karbofos is used to combat ticks.

Spirea pruning

Due to the fact that this plant grows at a fairly high speed, the spirea is pruned according to a certain system. Those varieties that bloom in spring have inflorescences on the stems along the entire length. For this reason, they should be trimmed only once after the winter frosts, removing the ends of the branches damaged by the cold. But upon reaching the age of 7-14 years, the plant is cut off almost to the level of the stump.

When this stump sprouts new growth, you will need to select about five healthy full-fledged stems in order to then form a shrub. Any stems that have not been selected must be removed. After a couple of years, cut off those stems that have become weak or damaged, as well as those that have already become old. The ends of the stems should only be trimmed in the spring before the buds are fully open. If we talk about old branches, then they can be removed at any time.

Late-blooming varieties should be pruned annually at the onset of spring. Remove part of the branches to the level of the first bud, and remove the weakest and smallest branches completely

It is important to monitor the condition of the shoots in order to remove in time those that are beginning to age, because over time they will become dry.

After the onset of 4 years, specimens are pruned to a height of 30 centimeters each year. If, despite all this work, the plant is still weak, it will have to be replaced. Typically, the life span of species blooming in summer is about 15-20 years.

Timing

The choice of timing for reproduction in most cases turns out to be associated with the desire of the gardener to use different types and methods of plant breeding. In the case of spirea (a rather unpretentious shrub), seasonal restrictions are not so important. Subject to certain rules, it will be possible to complete all the necessary tasks even in the summer.

In the spring

The choice of timing for spring breeding can be different. Most often, the landing time falls on the following periods.

1. The period until the kidney swells. It comes around mid-March. If the deadlines are missed and the leaves have started to grow, you should not touch the plant.
2. In late spring, before flowering. At this time, the most active growing season is replaced by other processes and the changes are not so dangerous.

Summer

In the summer, propagation of a shrub by layering, dividing, cuttings is recommended only if the weather is cloudy, without drought, scorching sun. Loss of moisture is always detrimental to young seedlings, they may not take root or wither.

In autumn

The autumn months imply the possibility of planting spirea only before the onset of the first frost. It will be better if all the necessary manipulations can be completed in mid-September. It is believed that autumn propagation is the most productive, as it allows you to reduce the need for plant care to a minimum. In most cases, it is enough just to mulch and insulate the seedlings well. In this case, the survival rate of plants is as high as possible.

Agrotechnics for the care and cultivation of spirea

Spirea is unpretentious and can grow without any attention from the gardener. However, if you follow the simple rules of care, this shrub can become a truly royal garden decoration.

Pick-up location

Spirea is a shrub that prefers well-consecrated places. South, southwest, southeast locations are most suitable for this plant. The bush can also be planted in the shade, but in this case its growth may slow down, and the flowering will not be as intense.

Watering

It is necessary to water the shrub when it has just undergone a transplant. In addition, it is necessary to water the plant during particularly dry periods. This does not apply to Japanese spirea, which requires abundant moisture in the soil cover. Without it, she can quickly perish.

Weeding and loosening

Young, just planted, bushes require compulsory loosening and destruction of weeds in the near-root zone. These procedures will improve the air permeability of the soil and prevent excess moisture from stagnating and causing rotting of the root system.

Mulching

To maintain the required amount of moisture, the root circle of the bush must be covered with an 8-10 cm layer of mulch. The bark of coniferous trees, dry reed leaves, shells from medium-sized nuts are excellent for this.

Important! The presence of mulch will prevent weeds from growing.

Root zone mulching

Top dressing

Spireas usually do not need feeding. However, some gardeners do it. If it is noticed that the plant has slowed down its growth or does not bloom luxuriantly enough, then there is a wash to apply fertilizers.

Top dressing is applied twice a season. The first time was at the very beginning of spring. In this case, nitrogen fertilizers are applied to stimulate the formation of deciduous mass. The second time - just before the beginning of flowering. Potash or complex fertilizers such as "Crystal-agro" are added to the soil.