Transplanting indoor plants

Possible plant problems and their causes

Often netizens ask questions like "why does a flower wither" or "why does its leaves fall." The reasons for this lie in improper care. The most popular poinsettia problems are:

  • Leaf spots and discoloration. This means that a lot of water gets on the crown.
  • Leaves fall and turn yellow. The plant was or is in a draft.

  • Inflorescences fall and the leaves acquire a brown tint - dry air in the room.
  • Inflorescences and leaves fall without changing color - roots rot from waterlogging of the soil.
  • The leaves fell sharply - the flower was placed in a very cold environment (transportation from the store home at sub-zero temperatures).

For details on how to take care of a poinsettia flower at home, see our video.

Did you have a poinsettia and how did you take care of it?

Possible problems

There are a number of problems that can arise when growing a plant. Let's consider them in more detail.

Why poinsettia leaves turn yellow

There are three main reasons for this, and all of them are easily removable:

  • improper watering (excessive or poor);
  • cold room, draft;
  • insufficiently humidified air or high temperature in the house.

Correct the situation, and the condition of the flower will return to normal.

Why poinsettia leaves fall

This most often occurs after hypothermia. If the leaves have fallen off after purchase, provide the poinsettia with good care at home, place it as in the photo, and the problem will not recur.

If the unscheduled leaf fall began after the adaptation period, check if the plant is in a draft, if the wall next to it freezes, if there is a pot near a cold window.

If the leaves have not fallen, but have wilted, pay attention to whether you are overflowing the plant, whether there is sufficient drainage, whether the water stagnates in the trays. If the plant was bought recently and has not yet been transplanted, it is possible that the roots are additionally protected with polyethylene, and because of this they will grow

If the plant was bought recently and has not yet been transplanted, it is possible that the roots are additionally protected with polyethylene, and because of this they are growing.

What should be the soil?

Buying soil in stores is good, since experts have already included everything you need in the finished soil. But it can also be improved by adding small pebbles, coarse sand to the ready-made mixture; brick chips are also suitable.

It is worth paying attention to drainage, it must work well so that there is not even the slightest excess of moisture. The earth must quickly absorb and return excess water. The basis of the soil in stores is put - peat

But peat itself can be different: high and low. To find out, you need to moisten it a little with water. The grassroots are heavy and quickly go astray. The horse dries out after watering and then it is almost impossible to wet it. Experienced flower growers will not buy ready-made soil. Yes, the package says which plant it is intended for, but you must agree that this species has more than one hundred plants in its composition, and all of them in their own way have preferences in the composition of the soil.

For the soil of the money tree, sod and leafy land will be required in equal proportions (40% each) and this land must be mixed with coarse sand or small pebbles, which need 20%. Nothing complicated is included in the composition, but high-quality soil will give an impetus for growth, and the money tree will repay and delight the eye with lush foliage on plump branches and unpretentious flowers. But the tree grows and it will need to be transplanted into a flowerpot more. It is necessary to prepare the soil components for the succulent in advance.

This will require a topsoil.It includes both dead and living roots and shoots of various herbs. It must be cut to a height of 10-12 cm. This substratum is called turf and it can be obtained outside the city, in meadows or pastures. But he is not alone in the composition of the soil. We remind you that the soil should be light and fortified, the turf itself will not give it. But leafy land will calmly provide the necessary conditions.

You need to collect rotted fallen leaves in your garden, in parks or squares. Do not take leaf humus from under oak, ash, poplar and needles of coniferous trees. Leafy humus is lighter than sod. It remains to add sand and pebbles to the soil.

It is worth noting that one should not take the small compositions of crushed stone and sand used in construction, because it has a large percentage of dust and thereby clogs, cements the soil in pots. But if there is nothing else at hand, then it must be very scrupulously rinsed under running water, dried and sieved to select large grains of sand.

For these purposes, coarse-grained sand is considered the best option. The soil for the money tree is drawn up. There is a small touch left, it is also important - it is a mineral dressing. It is wood ash and pulverized coal. They should also be mixed into the soil, the fat woman will receive top dressing and in the near future it is not worth feeding it with something else, adding something. If there are broken clay shards, they can be added to the soil, this will give porosity and excess moisture intake.

The composition of the soil is ready. But there is still a moment, our tree does not like the increased acidity of the soil. It is necessary to purchase an indicator paper in a store with garden paraphernalia and introduce it into the soil, mixed in advance with distilled or boiled and chilled water. The ideal acidity index for the money tree is 5.5. If we add less chalk, more - peat. If the composition turned out to be very acidic, you need to spread the soil in the fresh air and water it as it dries, after a month it will recover.

Before planting, the soil should still be disinfected. To do this, you need to take a large capacity, make the first layer of sand, and then other components. When heated, the released steam decontaminates the earth.

It is better to replant the money tree in the spring. When moving to a new pot, it is better not to water the fat woman in the first week, it reanimates so quickly from the injuries of the root system received during transplantation. But the soil is soil, and the right place for its registration should still be taken into account. It is necessary that it be moderately lit, but without direct sunlight. There is no particular difficulty, once you have prepared the soil for the plant, the purchases in the store will disappear by themselves. After all, a home-made mixture is distinguished by its individuality. You should now adhere to the temperature regime, and do not flood the plants when watering. The money tree will delight with the brightness of color and with its whole appearance will invite prosperity and prosperity into the house.

Transplant time

Transplanting is an important procedure in the life of a plant, which largely determines its health. A transplant is required if the flower pot has become small and the roots have taken up all the space, in the case of a bad substrate, it is also necessary to transplant the plant. It is imperative to transplant the culture after purchase.

In this case, it is important to observe the period. So, at home, poinsettia is recommended to be transplanted in the spring of every year.

Flowering occurs in winter, and therefore, in winter, transplanting is required only when absolutely necessary.

If the plant is just brought from the store, then you cannot immediately transplant it into a new pot. Let the specimen adapt within 3-4 weeks, and only after that it can be transplanted into a new substrate. After buying a flower, a special mixture should be prepared: we combine 4 parts of humus, 2 parts of leaf, 2 parts of turf and a little sand.

Even before transplanting, a purchased bush should provide comfortable conditions for adaptation. For this, the new pet needs to be placed on a windowsill and protected from a draft.The most favorable temperature for successful addiction is at least 16 degrees. If a new tenant begins to crumble a couple of weeks after the purchase, it means that he needs new conditions for a dormant period. This phenomenon usually occurs if the flower is purchased in December.

How to properly transplant dracaena at home

In order to properly change the container, a number of conditions must be met. So, the size of the pot should correspond to the growth of the dracaena. If the stem has grown to 40 cm, a pots with a diameter of 15 - 20 cm in the shape of a glass will be just right. Each next transplant requires a capacity of 6 cm more, so that 3 cm remains from the wall to the clod of earth with roots.When the plant becomes so large that changing the tub becomes a problem, it is necessary to remove the top layer of the earth as deep as possible.

The survival rate of a plant and its further development depends on:

  • the correct composition of the soil mixture;
  • fulfillment of hygienic requirements during transplantation;
  • providing conditions for root restoration after transplantation.

The composition of the substrate can be made by yourself or you can buy a ready-made mixture for palm trees. The purchased land is believed to contain all the necessary micronutrient supplements. Any mixture must be sterilized before placing it in a container. The composition of the substrate prepared at home:

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  • sod land -2 parts;
  • peat - 1 part;
  • leaf land - 2 parts;
  • compost - 1 part.

The addition of vermiculite and crushed birch charcoal to the substrate is encouraged. You can add some ceramic chips - crushed red brick. Expanded clay, pebbles, broken glass are used for the drainage layer. It is impossible to reuse expanded clay, it absorbs harmful salts.

The transplant container can be made of any material. A prerequisite is the presence of drainage holes and its stability, that is, a small taper of the glass. The container must be washed with hot water and laundry soap.

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The instruments used for transplanting - secateurs, scissors must be clean. Water for irrigation is used soft, settled.

How to transplant dracaena at home, video:

As you can see from the video tutorial, work must be done carefully, preserving the root system as much as possible.

This is especially important when the plant has already been placed in a container and it is necessary to carefully compact the soil around it. The lesson shows in detail how to transplant dracaena after purchase.

Just as carefully, straightening the roots, cuttings and the top of the dracaena are planted, if the young plant is propagated at home.

More often, an adult plant has to be transplanted. If a healthy dracaena is transplanted, which needs additional volume, transshipment is done. In order to remove the lump from the container without destruction, it is necessary to dry the soil for 2 days. Then the lump is worth picking up a little and the plant, when tilted, will easily come out, keeping its shape.

In an already prepared vessel with a drainage layer and covered with earth, a removed flower is installed in the center and sprinkled with earth from all sides with compaction. At the end, the plant needs to be watered abundantly, because it was slightly dried before transplanting. After that, create gentle conditions for the restoration of the root system. For two weeks the plant is kept in moderate light and a temperature of 20-22 degrees.

How to transplant dracaena into another pot with a revision of the root system?

If a lump of earth is densely entwined with roots, it will be necessary to remove some of them during transplantation. The root grows quickly and will restore efficiency in a few days. Therefore, the roots are straightened and the lower part of them is removed with scissors or pruning shears.

In a new container, it is important that the root collar of the adult plant remains at the same level. Therefore, the ground under the roots is regulated, the roots are spread over the surface and the substrate is carefully poured, slightly compacting so as not to break off the roots

When the pot is full, the new plant is watered. Above, so that there is no evaporation, you can lay a layer of expanded clay. But check the dryness of the soil only under it, so as not to overflow.

If the plant is poured, and root decay is possible, transplanting dracaena at home is carried out with cutting off the diseased parts. Slices should be sprinkled with crushed coal. For a diseased plant, create the best conditions for survival. But you need to know that the main reason for poor survival is overfilling. A weak root system at the time of transplanting easily rots.

Caring for transplanted primrose in the garden and at home

In order for a plant to grow and develop normally, it needs high-quality care. Timely watering, fertilization, light and humidity help accelerate the adaptation of the crop to new conditions.

Watering

Indoor and garden primrose varieties do not tolerate uncontrolled watering. Excessive soil moisture often provokes the development of dangerous fungal infections. To avoid this, the plant needs to be watered as the topsoil dries. For this, it is recommended to use settled water.

Important! When watering a crop, do not allow moisture to enter the leaves. Otherwise, there is a risk of flower rot

Top dressing

In order for the primrose to quickly adapt to new conditions and to transfer the transplant more easily, it should not be fertilized. You need to make feeding when the ovary appears. You need to use such funds every 2 weeks. They help to achieve excellent flowering culture.

Primrose should be fed with liquid fertilizers containing iron. The best option would be to use chicken manure. It should be mixed with water in a 1:15 ratio. If this is not done, the soil will be overflowing with salts.

In order for the primrose to quickly adapt to new conditions, it must be properly fed.

External factors

In order for such a flower as primrose to grow quickly and develop correctly, it needs to provide optimal conditions:

  • Temperature conditions. Primrose can hardly tolerate high temperatures. In order for the bush to take root faster and adapt to new conditions, it needs a temperature of +12 .. + 15 degrees. The only exception is the reverse conical variety. She needs a temperature regime of +15 .. + 18 degrees.
  • Humidity. For primrose to grow and bloom after transplant, it needs moist air. In hot weather, the flower must be sprayed. You can also place a container filled with wet pebbles near it. In this case, you should not water the flower too much. This will cause the root system to rot.

Culture needs proper care for lush flowering.

  • Soil composition. A mixture of sand, peat and earth is ideal for primroses. Sometimes they use ready-made soil for geraniums. However, it is necessary to add 20% sandstone to it. This option is suitable for growing crops at home. You need to transplant the bush into a wide and shallow pot. Preliminary, drainage holes should be made in it.
  • Lighting. A primrose needs a sufficiently lit place. At the same time, the direct rays of the sun should not fall on the flower. The plant needs diffused light. It can be planted in the east or west. It is not recommended to place the culture in the north.

A primrose transplant has a number of features. To ensure the adaptation of the culture to new conditions, it must be watered and fed in a timely manner.

Observance of optimal parameters of temperature and humidity is of no small importance.

Favorable days for transplanting and planting indoor plants in 2020 by months>

January 2020:

  • Transplanting indoor plants: January 4, 5, 6;
  • Pruning: January 20 and 21:
  • Planting flower seeds: January 7;
  • Planting cuttings and bulbs: January 4, 5, 6;
  • Top dressing: January 1, 4, 5, 6;
  • Control of pests that live in the ground or on the leaves: January 14 and 22 (in the ground) January 18 (on the leaves).

February 2020:

  • Transplanting indoor plants: February 1, 2, 28, 29;
  • Pruning: February 16 and 17:
  • Planting flower seeds: February 3 and 4;
  • Planting cuttings and bulbs: February 1, 2, 28, 29;
  • Top dressing: February 1, 2, 5, 6, 7, 24, 28, 29;
  • Control of pests that live in the ground or on the leaves: 10, 11, 18, 19 (in the ground) 14 and 15 February (on the leaves).

March 2020:

  • Transplanting indoor plants: March 26, 27, 28;
  • Pruning: March 14:
  • Planting flower seeds: March 2, 3, 29, 30;
  • Planting cuttings and bulbs: March 26, 27, 28;
  • Top dressing: March 4, 5, 31;
  • Control of pests that live in the ground or on the leaves: 17 and 18 (in the ground) 12 and 13 March (on the leaves).

April 2020:

  • Transplanting indoor plants: April 5, 6, 24;
  • Pruning: April 10, 11, 12, 20, 21:
  • Planting flower seeds: April 7, 25, 26;
  • Planting cuttings and bulbs: April 5, 6, 24;
  • Top dressing: April 1, 27, 28, 29;
  • Control of pests that live in the ground: April 13, 14, 22.

May 2020:

  • Transplanting indoor plants: 2, 3 May 29, 30;
  • Cropping: May 8, 9, 17, 18, 19:
  • Planting flower seeds: May 4, 5, 23, 24;
  • Planting cuttings and bulbs: 2, 3 May 29, 30;
  • Top dressing: May 6, 15, 16;
  • Control of pests that live in the ground: May 10, 11, 20, 21.

June 2020:

  • Transplanting indoor plants: June 25 and 26;
  • Pruning: June 14 and 15:
  • Planting flower seeds: June 1, 27, 28, 29;
  • Planting cuttings and bulbs: June 25 and 26;
  • Top dressing: 2, 3, 22, 30 June;
  • Control of pests that live in the ground or on the leaves: June 6, 7, 8, 16, 17 (in the ground) June 11, 12, 13 (on the leaves).

July 2020:

  • Transplanting indoor plants: July 4, 23, 24, 31;
  • Pruning: July 11 and 12:
  • Planting flower seeds: July 25 and 26;
  • Planting cuttings and bulbs: July 4, 23, 24, 31;
  • Top dressing: July 1, 4, 5, 27, 28, 31;
  • Control of pests that live in the ground or on the leaves: July 13 and 14 (in the ground) July 16, 17, 18, 19 (on the leaves).

August 2020:

  • Transplanting indoor plants: August 1, 20, 27, 28, 29;
  • Pruning: 7, 8, 9, 17, 18 August:
  • Planting flower seeds: August 21 and 22;
  • Planting cuttings and bulbs: August 1, 20, 27, 28, 29;
  • Top dressing: August 1, 23, 24;
  • Control of pests that live in the ground or on the leaves: August 10, 11, 18 (in the ground) August 12, 13, 15, 16 (on the leaves).

September 2020:

  • Transplanting indoor plants: September 24 and 25;
  • Pruning: September 3, 4, 5, 13, 14:
  • Planting flower seeds: September 18;
  • Planting cuttings and bulbs: September 24 and 25;
  • Top dressing: September 1, 24, 25, 28, 29, 30;
  • Control of pests that live in the ground or on the leaves: September 6, 7, 8 (in the ground) September 11 and 12 (on the leaves).

October 2020:

  • Transplanting indoor plants: October 21, 22, 30;
  • Pruning: October 11 and 12:
  • Planting flower seeds: no auspicious days;
  • Planting cuttings and bulbs: October 21, 22, 30;
  • Top dressing: October 17, 18, 21, 22, 25, 26, 27, 30;
  • Control of pests that live in the ground or on the leaves: October 3, 4, 13, 14 (in the ground) October 8 and 9 (on the leaves).

November 2020:

  • Transplanting indoor plants: November 17, 18, 27, 28;
  • Pruning: November 7 and 8:
  • Planting flower seeds: no auspicious days;
  • Planting cuttings and bulbs: November 17, 18, 27, 28;
  • Top dressing: November 17, 18, 27, 28;
  • Control of pests that live in the ground or on the leaves: November 9 and 10 (in the ground) November 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 13, 14 (on the leaves).

December 2020:

  • Transplanting indoor plants: December 15, 16, 24, 25, 26;
  • Pruning: December 4, 5, 13:
  • Planting flower seeds: December 27 and 28;
  • Planting cuttings and bulbs: December 15, 16, 24, 25, 26;
  • Top dressing: December 15, 16, 19, 20, 21, 24, 25, 26;
  • Control of pests that live in the ground or on the leaves: December 6, 7, 8 (in the ground) December 2, 3, 11, 12 (on the leaves).

Every real florist who sincerely worries about the fate of his beautiful pets is simply obliged to use the Lunar Calendar in his work, because this is required by the health of plants. This calendar should be constantly checked, and this does not require almost any special effort from the grower. And then, in response to your concern, grateful plants will give you the true beauty of their beautiful flowers.

Further care of the flower

During the period of active growth, the plant is watered in a timely manner and abundantly. Moistening is carried out as the top layer of the earth dries up. Warm, settled water is suitable for irrigation.

Healthy plant

Additional Information! The addition of citric acid to the water for irrigation will help maintain the required level of soil acidity.

In dry times, the bush requires spraying, which is carried out in the early morning or after sunset. By the end of the season, watering is reduced by at least half. Due to a lack of moisture, the azalea stops growing and can survive the winter time without problems. Flower feeding is carried out three times a year:

  1. Nitrogen fertilizers are applied immediately after the "awakening" of the flower - in early spring.
  2. At the time of budding, potassium and phosphorus are added to the soil.
  3. After the buds have faded, the soil is fertilized with a mixture of phosphorus and potassium. The proportion of the composition is 1: 2.

Important! Do not allow liquid to get on the root collar. Plants are watered at a distance of at least 10-20 cm from the center of the azalea

Azalea in the garden

Indoor and outdoor azaleas are a responsive culture. Compliance with the rules and regulations of agricultural technology will invariably lead to abundant flowering. The view can easily become a decoration not only for any home, but also for a personal plot.

How to propagate hyacinths at home

Separately, it is worth considering the methods of reproduction, since the tubers can give flowers for two or three years, but at the same time they will not form children. For this, the bulbs need stimulation, it is carried out in various ways.

Cutting the bottom of the hyacinth tuber

Even during planting, the place where the largest bulbs are planted is determined on the site. After the leaves of the plant turn yellow, the tuber is removed from the ground and immediately, without letting dry, arrange a "shower" under the strong pressure of water. During this process, old scales are removed along with the soil. Next, the bulbs are laid out in one layers in a ventilated box, taken out to a shaded place, dried for about 7-10 days. After this time, using a sharp knife, a wedge-shaped cut is made on the bottom, in which the kidney and the bottom itself are completely removed. The cut site must be treated with crushed activated carbon.

After this operation, the tubers are laid out in a container, the bottom of which is covered with a layer of perlite. The bulbs should be placed with the cut bottoms up. Next, the container is placed in a large plastic bag (you can use garbage bags) to create the required microclimate. At a temperature of + 30 ° C and high humidity, babies will appear at the cut site, and after 2-3 months they will reach about 1 cm, acquire root rudiments and sprout small processes. If the bottom was cut out in the first months of summer, then the tuber with children can be planted in the soil and covered with sawdust (or peat).

If time is missed, then the tubers are turned upside down, placed in a container with soil, placed in the cold (refrigerator, basement), and with the onset of spring they are planted on the site.

After the hyacinths have faded, what to do with them? With the onset of August, these tubers are dug up (by that time they are already covered with children), the children are separated. By early September, the young generation of hyacinths is buried in the soil, covered with a 10 cm layer of mulch (sawdust, spruce branches, foliage, peat). At the end of the first wintering, the mulching layer is removed, but left in place after the second winter. In the third year, these hyacinths give color and delight you with a wonderful aroma.

Reproduction by scales from bulbs

Large tubers (about 5-6 cm in diameter) are cut into 4 parts, after which some scales are separated from the bottom, the "wound" surface is treated with crushed activated carbon. Next, a container is taken, at the bottom of which perlite or clean sand is poured; you can also use crushed charcoal with ash. Broken flakes are placed in this container, then it is placed in a transparent plastic bag, tied securely and kept for 2 months in not too bright light.

At the same time, the air temperature should be approximately + 19..23 ° С, but at the second stage, which lasts a month and a half, the temperature should be reduced to + 16..19 ° С. During this period, several bulbs will be tied on the scales. Young stock storage is similar to the method described in the first method.

Propagation of hyacinths by cuttings of a leaf

To do this, you should wait for the period of the ovary of the peduncles and separate from the hyacinths by a couple of sheets, they must be cut as close to the base as possible. Then the leaves are treated in a solution that stimulates root formation (for example, "Heteroauxin") and buried 3-4 cm in a container with clean sand (or perlite). This container, again, is enclosed in a plastic bag, tied up and placed in a moderately lit place for a month and a half. The air temperature should vary within + 10..17 ° С, humidity - 80-90%.After the specified period, you can see bulbous buds on the cuttings, and after 50-60 days - young roots and small leaves. Further, the plants are planted on the site, each stalk subsequently gives 6-10 children.

Notching the bottom, as a way of reproduction of hyacinth

In this procedure, the end is not removed, as in the first case, but is cut crosswise. A couple of crosses are made on large tubers, on those that are smaller - one. The damaged areas are treated with powdered activated carbon, then the bulbs are placed in a warm room for 24 hours (+ 20..22 ° C) so that the “crosses” open up. All further actions are similar to the above recommendations. With this method of stimulating the tuber, it is possible to obtain about 10-16 large young bulbs.

You need to make an effort to make these spring messengers delight you with long flowering, splendor of tassels and an amazing aroma. Now you know how to grow hyacinths, planting and caring for them in the open field, although they are fraught with difficulties, are undoubtedly worth the effort and time.

First flowers (photo by Lyubov Belykh, Krasnodar)

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