Preparation
To transplant a flower, it is important to properly prepare the soil. It should be neutral or slightly acidic soil.
The selected area should be well lit by the sun, but protected from wind and drafts. Before planting, it is important to dig up the soil well, removing the roots of the weeds. It is advisable to supplement the soil composition with organic matter, but not fresh, otherwise it will provoke damage and death of fragile onions. If necessary, it is recommended to add dolomite flour or lime, as well as a complex mineral composition.
The culture does not withstand waterlogging, therefore, the selected area must be removed from the flow of groundwater. If necessary, the flower bed should be raised as high as possible from possible stagnation of rain and melt water
If a place is provided for planting where excess moisture is not excluded, then it is important to equip high-quality drainage when transplanting
It is not recommended to plant hyacinths near trees and bushes, since competition for moisture and nutrients in this case cannot be avoided, and as a result, the culture will not receive a sufficient amount of the necessary components. The site for planting should be prepared in advance - in August or several weeks before planting.
The bulbs to be transplanted are carefully removed from the ground, cleaned of soil and dried. As a preventive measure, gardeners recommend treating the onions with a weak solution of potassium permanganate or fungicide.
How to properly transplant perennials in spring
The process of transplanting perennials is simple, although laborious. Therefore, it is better not to plan work at once with all the plantings that you have in your flower garden. Choose one or two flower beds or part of a flower garden, or certain bushes that no longer fit in the allotted area and take care of them.
First of all, dig a bush with the largest possible lump of earth so as not to damage the root.
Gently shake off or rinse off excess soil with water and inspect the rhizome. Remove dry or rotten areas from it, sprinkle with crushed coal
If you plan to divide the rhizome into parts, choose a sharp knife for the process and pre-disinfect it.
Choose the thinnest parts of the roots for cuts, while leaving at least three stems or growth buds on each division. If you make new bushes in a smaller size, you will not wait for a long time to bloom. Also dust the incisions with charcoal to prevent infection.
Immediately after digging, transplant the bushes or cuttings to a new place, preventing the roots from drying out. Water liberally around the seedlings and cover them from direct sunlight. To keep the moisture and looseness of the soil in the flower garden longer, mulch the young plantings with plant material.
Remember to regularly divide and plant your perennials, and they will reward you with lush flowering.
Plant age is the second guideline
This is, of course, the state of the bush. That is, you can be guided by the wilting and drying of the bush. If we talk about Russia, then this may come at different times. In the south, daffodil bushes dry up completely at the end of June. In the northern regions, the bushes may not dry out at all, but by autumn they will simply fall. Still, when to transplant daffodils?
This is done when the plant's growth cycle is complete. While the growth cycle is incomplete, the bush is compact, its leaves are green and elastic. After that, the bush disintegrates, now it is ready for transplanting.However, there is good news for gardeners, for example, dahlias need to be dug up every year, but daffodils can be transplanted much less often. The only exception may be your desire to propagate the plant and fill in empty flower beds.
Suitable dates for transplanting roses and important nuances
The reasons why roses require transplanting can be different. But in any case, you need to choose the right time:
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Spring. It is necessary to be in time until the leaf buds begin to bloom. The minimum soil temperature is 7–10 ° C. Dates, depending on the region, vary from early March to late April. Most likely, the rose will not bloom this season. Tear off the buds that have appeared so that the plant can form roots normally.
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Summer. Risky procedure. The procedure is carried out on a cloudy day in the evening. Then the bush will need protection from direct sunlight, frequent watering and spraying.
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Autumn. Such a transplant, if everything is done correctly, the roses are tolerated almost painlessly, since the plant is already going into hibernation. It is carried out 4–5 weeks before the first frost, when the leaves have already fallen from the bush. Approximate dates are from mid-September to the end of October.
When to transplant lilies
The optimal time when you can transplant lilies from one place to another is autumn. Specific dates depend on the region of their growth. For example, in Central Russia it is worth doing this in late August - early September, and in the southern regions - from late mid-September to mid-October.
Important! Regardless of how long the transplant is planned, it should be carried out only after the end of the flowering period.
Lilies in the flowerbed during the flowering season
Why do you need a transplant and what will happen if you do not do it
The first two to three years of growth, lilies growing in the open field bloom luxuriantly and develop actively. However, after this period, the flowers begin to become smaller, decorativeness is lost, young shoots develop more slowly. All this can be avoided with a transplant. A lily transplant is necessary to avoid:
- Stopping the growth of flowers;
- Flabby, yellowing leaves;
- Excessive overgrowth of plants;
- Fungal and bacterial diseases.
There are hybrid varieties that can not be transplanted for 10 years, but they are not very popular among flower growers. Most varieties need to be replanted annually.
The dependence of the transplant time on the variety of lilies
The period when you can plant lilies in the fall depends both on the region of growing flowers and on the variety of lilies. To do this, you need to have an idea of the features of the development cycles of the acquired variety. So, for example, the Candidum variety goes into a dormant state at the end of summer. At this time, it is worth thinking about transplanting other bulbs. The first half of September is suitable for transplanting early flowering varieties. Tubular or oriental varieties can be replanted in the first half of October or during the spring months.
Important! If the average daily temperature drops to 0 ° C, then it will no longer be possible to plant the lilies, since the bulbs can become supercooled, the development of the root system will slow down, and immunity to fungal and infectious diseases will decrease. It is quite permissible to replant Asian and early varieties in spring, even in the initial period of budding.
Immediately after that, they must be immediately shaded slightly and watered thoroughly.
It is quite permissible to replant Asian and early varieties in the spring, even in the initial period of budding. Immediately after that, they must be immediately shaded slightly and watered thoroughly.
Step-by-step transplant of tulips before flowering
Correctly transplanted bulbs are quickly accepted and delight with their abundant flowering the next year.
How to prepare planting material
Remove tulips from sufficiently damp soil with a pitchfork or a small shovel.This will not only simplify the process, but also prevent possible damage to the bulbs. To moisten the soil, water the bushes with water for several days.
After the soil is soft, carefully digging up the whole bush so that you get one lump. This is necessary to gently separate the bulbs from the bulk.
Planting must be carried out within 4-5 hours after digging, otherwise the seedlings can adapt for a long time to a new place of growth.
It must be remembered that plants are transplanted during the period of active sap flow, therefore the slightest damage leads to the death of the bulb.
Bulb transplant process
After the bulbs have been dug up, the site must be prepared for planting. I carefully dig up the flowerbed and level it with a rake. Then there are the following stages:
I carefully divide the clod of earth in which the bulbs are placed into divisions of 2-3 bulbs.
I spray the planting material with water mixed with urea in a proportion of 3-4 grams per 1 liter.
I make a hole 15 cm deep in the ground and carefully place the seedlings.
Sprinkle with soil and compact it.
I water the planting site with warm water.
Further care
In the first 2-3 days, the bulbs are most susceptible to the influence of external factors. Plants need to be watered with warm water every 3 days and make sure that weeds do not appear.
Very often, after transplanting, the leaves become lethargic and fall to the soil. This does not affect the condition of the tubers.
2-3 weeks after planting, you need to feed the plant with superphosphate. This will not only strengthen the bulbs, but also prevent possible root damage.
The next year, the bulbs will release new healthy shoots and flower stalks.
Daffodil care
Bulb quality can be improved by weeding and picking off wilted flowers. You should not be afraid to remove yellow leaves and rotten parts of the plant, because this will help it bloom and delight you with beautiful large flowers. In the first years after planting the bulbs, the plant needs careful feeding, the introduction of nutrient fertilizers and substances necessary for the bulbs.
The first feeding should be done in the spring.
It is important not to overdo it with fertilization, as an excess of nitrogen-containing feeding can cause a number of diseases. The first sign of a serious narcissus disease is the growth of too tall, yellow and withered leaves.
The second feeding should be done with nitrogen-containing and potassium-containing fertilizers. The third top dressing is the application of fertilizers with a high content of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. The fourth is the enrichment of the plant with potassium and phosphorus. This feeding is carried out during the flowering of the daffodil. Proper care will ensure the beauty and health of the plant.
The flower attracts the daffodil fly. This insect is the most common pest of the narcissus. The daffodil fly is attracted by a large amount of fresh manure, which fertilizes the soil. That is why it is strictly forbidden to enrich the soil with fresh manure! Among the diseases of narcissus, fusarium, mosaic disease and sclerotinosis are also known.
Possible problems
Growing cyclamen is a difficult task, and in order to cope with it, you need to follow all the rules for caring for a flower. A common problem with cyclamens is yellowing of the foliage. This process can be called normal if you got yourself a species that sheds foliage during a dormant period. But if your green pet does not belong to the species of deciduous cyclamen and its leaves have drooped, you need to determine the cause of this condition and eliminate it.
The yellowing of foliage in cyclamen can occur for the following reasons.
- The plant has outgrown the volume of its pot, the root system has overgrown.
- The flower is exposed to direct sunlight, causing it to burn.
- The plant is not provided with regular watering or it is in a room with dry air. To solve the problem, it is necessary to prevent the topsoil from drying out.In dry air, you can put the flower pot on a pallet with wet expanded clay or use an electric humidifier next to the plant.
- If a flower withers during the flowering period, this indicates that it does not have enough feeding. It is necessary to introduce liquid fertilizers for decorative flowering plants when watering.
It is possible that the cause of the flower's disease was a bacterial or fungal infection. The symptomatology in these cases is quite obvious.
- Gray rot - leaves turn yellow, stems and peduncles are covered with a fluffy gray mold. This situation occurs when the humidity is high and the temperature near the flower is low. To cure the flower, you will need to remove all affected areas and treat it with Fundazole solution.
- Wet rot - the cyclamen bush begins to wither quickly, and at the same time, an unpleasant smell of rotting can be found near it. The damaged areas must be removed and the cyclamen treated with any fungicide solution. If the process has already captured the root bulb, then it will most likely be impossible to save the flower.
- Fusarium - the plant begins to turn yellow. The cause is a fungal infection. The fungus infects the tissues of the stems and peduncles, clogging the capillary conducting system, which is why decay occurs. In addition, the spores of the fungus enter the soil, where they expect favorable conditions for a long time. To combat fusarium, the damaged parts of the plant are removed, the soil is changed and watered with "Fundazol", and the ground part is treated with "Topsin".
It happens that the cyclamen is damaged by pests. If they are affected, the following symptoms will appear.
- Cyclamen mite. The diseased plant stops blooming, the leaves and peduncles are deformed. For treatment, a series of spraying of the flower with insecticides is used. Experienced cyclamen breeders claim that this type of tick is very resistant to insecticides, and it is extremely rare to cure the plant. If there are still cyclamens in your collection, then the diseased specimen is best destroyed in order to protect healthy specimens from infection.
- Thrips are small insects whose larvae feed on the sap of leaves and young shoots. Visually, you will notice a lot of white dots on the leaf plates, while the edges of the leaves will be dried out and twisted inward. If you look closely, you will see a cluster of small insects on the back of the leaf. To combat them, use drugs "Fitoverm" or "Aktara".
- The scale insect is one of the most dangerous pests for cyclamen. They are practically not affected by insecticidal preparations, and the symptoms of infection appear too late. A diseased plant has a cluster of small brown insects on the back of the leaf, which are protected from the outside by a special shell, which gives them resistance when exposed to insecticides. The most effective method of getting rid of the scale insect is to manually collect insects from a flower. For the process to be effective, you need to spray the plant with an alcohol solution before harvesting.
For a cyclamen transplant, see the video below.
Transplant timing
To understand exactly when to transplant a daylily, you should know the basic information about the growth and development of this plant. If you got a plot with a daylily, it would be good to check with the previous owners how long the flowers have been in this place. If the term comes to 15 years, this is the limit value for permanent "residence", the flowers need to be transplanted. If you yourself see that the bush is too lush, but the buds are relatively small against this background, think about transplanting.
Usually, flower growers try to transplant every 5-6 years: they prevent the plant from overgrowing, thereby endangering the beautiful size of the buds.
And when to transplant the daylily - let's figure it out.
- In the spring. At this time, the flower can be transplanted, but you need to make sure that the soil has really warmed up well. This is comfortable for the plant and for you.Usually it is carried out in the suburbs and regions similar in climate in mid-April + month. A plant transplanted in spring will bloom in the same season, but only if it has a good large rhizome. If the roots are too small, expect flowering only next year.
- Summer. You can, of course, be transplanted in the summer, but during these months it is better not to divide the roots, just get rid of the non-viable ones. The less you disturb the root system in June, July and August, the easier the transplant will be. After transferring the plant, be sure to water it for a month. Transplant is ideal in the evening.
- In the autumn. The main thing is not to be late with the transplant during this period: if you think about it after the first frost, it will no longer make sense. If the roots of the plant are frozen, not having time to grab the ground, the daylily will die. Try to transplant flowers before October, maximum - until the middle of the second autumn month. Residents of the southern regions can postpone the transplant until the end of October.
If you want to know which period is the most favorable, it is still spring. After transplanting the bush, after 2 weeks, it can already be fed. So the plant quickly gains strength and pleases with lush, numerous buds.
Step-by-step transplant instructions
The transplant is started when the average daily temperature does not exceed 10 ° C. In bulbous plants, active root formation begins at a soil temperature of 9 ° C. The main conditions for a successful autumn planting of daffodils:
- roots have formed;
- the bulb did not start growing.
In the garden, salvia, tagetis, phlox, delphinium will be good predecessors to daffodil. Perennial bulbous plant grows well in the sun and in partial shade. There are isolated varieties that need a lot of sunlight.
Soil preparation
Daffodils need well aerated soils with a pH of 6-7 for optimal growth and development. They are very sensitive to the lack of potassium and phosphorus in the soil. When preparing the soil, do not apply fresh organic matter and fertilizers containing chlorine (potassium chloride).
They dig up the soil in the flower bed. Humus and mineral fertilizers are introduced. Planting the bulbs is carried out according to a simple scheme. First, they dig a trench (hole) 20-25 cm deep. River sand with ash 5-7 cm thick is poured onto the bottom. The bulbs are laid out, covered with fertile soil and watered.
It is impossible to delay the transplant. The leaves will wither, the bush may simply not be found
Dig the nest carefully. The blade of the shovel should be stuck in, slightly stepping back from the edge of the curtain, so as not to inadvertently touch the bulbs
They sit at a depth of 25-30 cm. The nest is taken out together with a clod of earth. Disassemble it into bulbs. They try not to damage the roots. Separated by hands, garden tools are used to remove the remnants of leaves. Soft, rotten and mechanically damaged specimens are subject to disposal.
