How to prune roses in the garden correctly?

How to properly trim

First of all, a garden tool is prepared:

  • pruning shears with one and two blades (respectively, for thin and thick shoots);
  • garden shears for thinning heavily thickened bushes;
  • mini-saw for working with lignified branches and hemp;
  • knife.

They must be sharp and clean, otherwise the plants will inevitably become infected with any infection. To disinfect the instrument, you can use a manganese solution or copper sulfate.

You should cut roses with gloves so as not to injure your hands.

The algorithm for performing the procedure is the same:

  1. They clean the soil under the bush and assess the condition of the plant.
  2. Cut off wild basal growth, which differs from cultivated shoots in light green color.
  3. Pruning is carried out to the required degree: improperly growing and excess branches are removed, side shoots are shortened or pinched.
  4. Slices are processed with garden pitch.

They start pruning immediately after the first flowering. An even cut is made above the growth buds at an angle of 45 ° with an indent of 1 cm. They are located in the axils of the leaves and are clearly visible after the foliage has fallen off. This technique allows you to speed up the second wave of flowering. If the pruning is done too high, the stem will quickly shrink and die off. An incorrectly chosen cut angle contributes to the rotting of the kidney from moisture accumulating in it.

Improper pruning can lead to plant death

After the second flowering, only the inflorescences are removed at the level of the nearby five-leafed leaf.

Pruning schemes depending on the type of roses

For greater clarity, it is worth considering illustrative pruning schemes for various varieties of roses:

  • In multi-flowered (shraba, floribunda, climbing climbers) roses, the entire brush with inflorescences above the first five-leafed leaf is cut off. This is done immediately after flowering is complete.

  • Hybrid tea specimens producing only one flower at the top of the stem are pruned differently. At the beginning of summer, the trunk is cut off to 3-4 leaves, counted from the base. And from mid-July to the end of August, only wilted buds are removed.

  • Polyanthus roses, like miniature roses, need high pruning in the first year of life. And also weakened shoots should be removed and the developed others should be shortened by a third.

  • Pruning climbing roses involves cutting woody stems to the ground. Of the young branches, only healthy and vigorous ones are left, on which flowering will occur in the next season. If there are few such shoots, then partly old stems are left, shortened to 35-40 cm.

  • In standard varieties, dried and damaged shoots are pruned, and the remaining ones are pruned so that 5-6 living internodes remain on them.

  • Park roses only require rejuvenating pruning to maintain their decorative appearance and stimulate new shoot growth. Damaged stems and those that grow in the wrong direction are cut off. The tops of the remaining ones are slightly trimmed.

When to cover roses for the winter

By freeing the leaves from the roses, you signal them that it is time to rest. Let the cuts and cuts dry well and start covering the bushes for the winter. Nevertheless, you should not rush too much, since in a warm, lingering autumn, roses without leaves will continue their vegetation, and if they are covered at this time, the buds of the plants can vanish and die. So at what temperature should you shelter roses for the winter? It is necessary to keep the roses for two weeks at a temperature of -2 to -5 ºC so that their vital activity is completely extinguished, and only then erect a shelter.Note that roses grafted onto rose hips can tolerate temperatures from -10 to -12 ºC, while native roses die at -3 ºC.

How to prune roses for the winter - general rules for any type of pruning

Regardless of what time trimming works are carried out, there are general principles for these procedures. First of all, this concerns the instrument: it must be sharp and sterile. Sharp to leave a clean cut, not a laceration. Sterile so as not to spread any infection throughout the area.

It is also important to make the right cut. It should be oblique, directed from top to bottom, so that moisture can drain freely and quickly.

Moreover, it should always be cut over the outer bud, then the new branches will not intersect. If you make a cut above the inner bud, then the next year young shoots will grow inside the bush, thickening it. The location of the cut is not difficult to determine - you should step back 5 mm above the kidney, no more, no less.

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Pruning different varieties

There are a number of characteristic features of queen cut flowers, based on their species as well as cultivar.

Tea-hybrid

Autumn pruning of this type of roses begins in November. It is preferable to spend it on a dry and clear day. Premature execution of the procedure will not give the desired results. On the contrary, it can stimulate the activation of dormant buds, as a result, it will be necessary to carry out a secondary pruning. Each re-operation increases the risk of contamination of the culture.

How many centimeters should the bush be? As a result, the shrub species should have a height of thirty to forty centimeters. Under no circumstances should the hybrid tea be cut too low. Because in this case, she may not survive.

Floribunda

Anyone who wants to plant floribunda should be aware of the peculiarities of the variety, as well as how to take care of such roses. That is why, before daring to grow this type of culture, you should consider:

  • the variety is specialized for constant flowering;
  • such a bush is distinguished by its power;
  • pruning is done solely to improve flowering quality.

Ideal floribunda pruning involves:

  • In the first year - the destruction of all damaged organs, as well as reduction of the roots.
  • In the second year of the plant's life, all weak “parts” of the bush should be cut off to twenty centimeters in length.
  • At other times of the life of the culture, the bush is not only freed from diseased or damaged organs, but also carefully thinned out.

Climbing large-flowered

Pruning and covering roses involves a meticulous fall harvesting of the buds. At the same time, pruning shoots consists only in eliminating their crown. When carrying out an operation for large-flowered plants, it should be borne in mind that the bushes of the first category must be cut in accordance with the degree of landscaping.

Caring for climbing roses of the second category involves cutting off the shoots of medium as well as short length. For the third category, a high cut of the stems is fair, since flowering is laid only on the upper buds.

One way or another, caring for these roses means destroying their “extra” branches, which initiate the thickening of the bush. However, you should not be overly zealous, because as a result, a climbing individual can turn into an ordinary bush.

Climbing rose type rambler

The period of cold weather is extremely difficult for roses. That is why they need shelter for the winter. However, this procedure is certainly preceded by pruning.

How to pick rambler roses for the winter? The procedure contains getting rid of shoots that have already bloomed. But the removal of the overwhelming mass of wattle fences will also give a suitable result, since this species tends to grow dynamically.

Rose Modern Shrub

Before covering the Modern Shrub flower for winter, you need to cut it according to the rules.Underdeveloped shoots are preliminarily eliminated, at the end the bush is thinned out (be sure to remove two and three summer shoots, which will slow down the development of the plant). Ultimately, there should be only up to six shoots left. This procedure can also be carried out in the spring.

Groundcover

This variety, against the background of its congeners, “is not afraid” of winter, so pruning takes into account only a slight docking. Ultimately, the bush should get the right shape. In the future, the plant can be simply thinned out.

Stamper

Caring for standard roses contains stage pruning:

  • Thinning of culture.
  • Elimination of fruits, as well as autumn buds.
  • Elimination of all leaves.
  • No need to shorten the branches, just cut off the tops.

What is autumn pruning for?

Autumn pruning of roses for the winter is required to strengthen the plant itself. If pruning in the spring is aimed at forming and ennobling a beautiful bush, then the autumn procedure is focused on providing access to light for the buds and stems of the plant, ventilating its crown, and increasing winter hardiness. In addition, pruning old branches provokes the laying of other buds, from which large flowers will open, and the formation of new, more resistant shoots.

If wild-growing beauties look divine and delight with flowering without auxiliary care, then garden roses need to be pruned every year. Pruning operations are subject not only to flowers that have been painting a flower garden for more than one year, but also young seedlings planted this year. Top recommendations include the need to remove all unripe buds and flowers that have already opened, and cutting out unhealthy as well as weak stems.

Unripe shoots left for winter begin to decompose in the shelter. This often leads to fungal attack and disease of the whole plant. After pruning, only lignified strong shoots with several dormant buds can remain on the bush.

In order to prevent the development of pathogenic microbes, cut plant fragments must be removed and then burned without leaving them under the bush. After pruning, the bush has only three to five evenly spaced, most formed and more powerful shoots that do not thicken the crown

In due time, one should get rid of old shoots, which include three-year-old stems, which have quite a lot of side branches and are covered with dried bark.

When to prune roses for the winter

It is necessary to carry out the autumn pruning of the rose before the shelter for the winter during the first night frosts, but preferably before the onset of stable frosts. If this is done ahead of time, then pruning will surely stimulate the growth of shoots that is completely unnecessary and destructive at this time.

As a rule, pruning is carried out immediately before the shelter for the winter, in other words, these two procedures are combined. Thus, the timing of pruning depends on where you live and the climate. The approximate timing of pruning roses for the winter in the middle lane (Moscow region) is the second half of October-early November, as, indeed, in the Leningrad region, as well as in the Volga region. In the cold northern regions (in the Urals and Siberia) - at the end of September-October. In the South of Russia - in late autumn, that is, not earlier than November.

What you need to prune roses

How to prune roses professionally if there is no optimal tool, or it lacks sharpness? The answer is no way. Here's a list of what you'll need:

  • Pruner.
  • Garden saw. It removes shoots with a diameter of more than two centimeters.
  • Garden shears equipped with long handles. They are in any case necessary for pruning climbing or tall shrub roses. Even if you have two-section ladders, it is not possible to mount them everywhere without harming the plants.
  • To work with roses, you will need gloves made of a thick elastic type of material.It is allowed to use old leather.
  • Knee pads or a special mat. This will allow you to get closer to the bush without getting any special problems with joints, especially if there are too many roses on the site.

How to prune roses?

All roses, regardless of when they were planted, need to be peeled in the fall. The trimming tool must be sharp and disinfected.

We need:

  • Garden saw, lopper for removing thick branches.
  • Pruner for cutting and trimming thin branches.
  • Thick gloves to protect your hands.
  • Garden var.
  • Rake.

Pruning rules:

  • Dry, preferably sunny weather.
  • Use a sharp instrument. With a blunt instrument you will damage, “chew” the bark and it will flake off.
  • For proper development, keep the proportion - the length of the roots is equal to the length of the aerial part.
  • Thick branches with a diameter of more than 1 cm, cut off with a lopper or file.
  • Remove all damaged or diseased wood from the central branches to a healthy spot. It differs in color from the affected part of the plant, the bark is green and the cut is white.
  • Make a cut over the outer, developed, but unblown bud.
  • The cut is made obliquely, approximately 45 °, so that moisture can drain above the outer kidney by 1 cm with a cut inward.
  • Cover all sections with garden varnish, and the plant itself with an antifungal agent, you can use a solution of copper sulfate.

When the weather becomes consistently cold and frosty, the plants must be spud. To do this, use ordinary soil, but not from under the bush, so as not to injure the roots. The bush is covered with earth, then covered with coniferous branches - spruce branches.

Tips from experienced gardeners

In order for cut roses to keep freshness in a bouquet for a long time, you must adhere to certain rules.

Here are some professional tips for cutting roses in the summer:

  • The cut of the stem is carried out at the base above the living kidney, turned outward. In this case, 2-3 internodes are left on the hemp. Then you can hope for re-flowering this season.
  • Do not cut flowers from one-year-old bushes, as well as underdeveloped and diseased plants.

A rose bush will stay in bloom for a long time if only wilted buds are removed in a timely manner, without touching others. Roses planted last season require a special approach. They are not allowed to fully bloom for the first time - they immediately remove the buds that have not yet opened, leaving no more than 2-3 pieces. In this case, flowering shoots should alternate with empty

Only then will the plant receive nutrients evenly, which is important for the proper development of the bush.

What kind of roses are pruned in the fall?

Floribunda

In this species, flower buds are placed on the shoots of this year. For pruning a bush, two pruning methods are recommended. This is called combined trim.

Some of the branches are pruned, leaving up to 10 buds, this pruning ensures early flowering. The remaining branches are greatly shortened, leaving 3-5 buds, thereby causing the growth of new shoots, they will bloom later.

Polyanthus roses

Mature shrubs of this species should have 7-8 main branches. The rest of the branches are deleted. The middle of the bush must be cleaned. By pruning, a spherical shape of the bush is achieved.

In autumn, the shoot is cut off by a third, and 1-2 buds are left at its growth. This species blooms on the shoots of both the past and this year.

Miniatures are pruned, leaving 5-7 buds on the shoot, trying to give symmetry.

Schemes for pruning roses by type

Park roses

The park rose has flowers laid on the branches of the previous year and this one. Pruning in the fall will stimulate the growth of new shoots. Weak, unhealthy branches are removed. Forming the skeleton of the bush, the main branches are cut to 15 cm.

Climbing roses

Climbing varieties are pruned in order to completely cover the required object, form the desired crown, and ensure long flowering.

Climbing varieties are divided into two types:

  1. Small-flowered Rambler have long (up to 4 m), thin, flexible shoots, as well as large inflorescences of small flowers blooming on last year's shoots.These shoots do not bloom again. Therefore, after flowering, they are cut off to the base of the soil, 3-4 new shoots grow from the soil to replace them. In autumn, Rambler are not drastically cut, removing only leaves, the remnants of inflorescences, damaged branches.
  2. Climbers are the second group of climbing roses, the shoots of which are thick, strong, up to 2.5 m long. They bloom once a season. They differ from Rambler by the formation of several basal stems, and they bloom due to growths on old shoots. In autumn, weak stems are removed, and young shoots up to 4 years old are left. It is best to leave 3 new replacement shoots and up to 7 old, flowering stems.

Semi-twisted roses

Semi-plaited varieties bloom on the growth of this year. In autumn, one-year growth is shortened by a third. Two-year branches are shortened to 3-5, their growth is up to 1-2 buds.

Stamp types

When floribunda or hybrid tea are grafted on the stem, the crown will grow upward. They are cut in autumn, each growth is up to 3-5 buds, lateral growth is up to 1-2. The middle of the stem must be left free.

Standard roses with a weeping crown are pruned, removing all last year's stems, leaving only the current growth. When it is not enough, you can leave symmetrical biennial stems, cutting off their lateral shoots to 3 buds.

Ground cover roses

Pruning ground cover roses

In autumn, if the bush was planted in spring, remove all the stems that have faded. For future flowering, basal processes are left, slightly cutting and bending the stems to the ground, fixing in this position. This will ensure flowering along the entire length of the pagon. Lateral growths are cut off, leaving 2-3 buds.

In the fall, in the second year, half of the pinned branches are removed. New sprouts are taken from the middle and attached to the soil. Lateral shoots are removed, leaving 2 - 3 buds. All processes that interfere with growth are removed.

In the third and subsequent years in the fall, all processes attached to the ground are removed. New shoots are taken from the middle of the bush and pinned to the ground, cutting off the lateral shoots to 3 buds. Also remove all crossed stems, diseased, immature, damaged.

Autumn pruning of roses is very important and should not be neglected. The future flowering, as well as the appearance and health of the bush, depends on the quality of pruning. Take the time for these noble plants, the result of your efforts will be a violent, long flowering.

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