Panicle hydrangea did not bloom: reasons for late flowering, how to speed up

How to care for a plant.

If you properly care for the hydrangea, then there will be no problems with the shrub, and after a while you will be able to enjoy flowering.
1

It is very important to water your hydrangea regularly. This plant loves moisture very much, so the soil under the bush should not dry out.

A young plant will need 1.5-2 buckets per week, and an adult bush will need at least 3 buckets of water. Of course, the volume and mode of irrigation must be adjusted depending on the weather: in hot summers, water the hydrangea more often, and in rainy weather, you can completely refuse watering. The water used for irrigation must first be defended.
2. After you have watered the hydrangea, be sure to loosen the soil and pull out the weeds.
3. In the first year after planting, you do not need to feed the hydrangea - it will be enough with those fertilizers that you brought into the planting pit. Starting from the second year, the shrubs begin to fertilize, both organic and mineral fertilizers can be used. In the spring, hydrangea needs nitrogen fertilizers, at the beginning of summer - in potassium-phosphorus supplements. The last feeding should be done in September, again using potassium and phosphorus, this will help the hydrangea gain strength before winter and ensure flowering next year.
4. Carrying out plant pruning is one of the most important maintenance procedures. It is important to know what kind of hydrangea you are growing, whether it forms flowers on young branches or on last year's shoots. Often, out of inexperience, gardeners prune the branches of hydrangea and wonder why flowering does not come for several years. The problem is that they cut off the shoots with flower buds without giving the hydrangea the opportunity to bloom.

Cosmetic pruning can be done at any time, this gentle procedure is performed only when necessary and includes the removal of frost-bitten, broken and diseased branches, as well as the removal of faded inflorescences. Formative pruning is carried out only in early spring, before the plant wakes up and sap flow begins.
5

It is important to pay enough attention to the preventive treatment of the plant, then you may not have to deal with diseases and harmful insects. Do not allow planting to thicken, remove weeds in a timely manner. In the spring, you can carry out prophylactic spraying of hydrangeas with the drug "Fundazol" or a weak solution of potassium permanganate

If aphids or spider mites are found in small quantities, you can resort to folk remedies (infusion of wormwood, garlic, soapy water). If the insects have already spread throughout the plant, then the chemicals "Actellik" or "Aktara" will help you. When using fungicides or insecticides, it is very important to observe the dosage indicated in the instructions and use personal protective equipment.

In the spring, you can carry out prophylactic spraying of hydrangeas with the drug "Fundazol" or a weak solution of potassium permanganate. If aphids or spider mites are found in small quantities, you can resort to folk remedies (infusion of wormwood, garlic, soapy water). If insects have already spread throughout the plant, then chemical preparations "Actellik" or "Aktara" will help you

When using fungicides or insecticides, it is very important to observe the dosage indicated in the instructions and use personal protective equipment.

Features of hydrangea flowering

Most often, it is deciduous flower varieties that are grown on the territory of Russia - they bloom in early summer and before the first frosts in autumn.Its flowers are collected in inflorescences - some are larger, others are smaller, forming a panicle or spherical shapes.

It is important to note: that the inflorescences include not one, but two types of flowers - some smaller ones, going in the middle, others more noticeable, large ones, going along the edge of the inflorescences.

Inflorescences can have a very different color - white and cream, pink and dark gray.

Shades can vary depending on the soil in which the plant is planted:

if it was planted in neutral soil, the flowers will be light, white or cream;
with its increased acidity, it will bloom in bright blue shades;
at an alkaline level, these will be lilac or pink tones.

For what reasons does hydrangea not bloom?

Often the bush does not bloom, and in order to make it bloom, it is worth finding out the reasons, eliminating them:

Lack of fertilization or excessive application of potassium and phosphorus to the soil.
Excessive pruning of the crown, which makes it impossible for the inflorescences to develop.
Improper care before wintering, insufficient shelter can provoke freezing of the shoot, the root system.
If the kidneys are damaged - frost, improper pruning or harmful insects.

How to get hydrangeas to bloom in your garden?

If it is planted in the ground, to speed up the flowering time, you can adopt the following tips and tricks:

Perform an early suspension of its growth in November-December, in which case the bush will bloom in early - mid-March.
To speed up watering, the plant is watered with warm water, the temperature of which is 34-36 degrees.
When the first shoots appear, the foliage doubles the frequency of watering, applying additional spraying with warm water.

If the flower grows outdoors in a tub, you can use these techniques to speed up flowering.

Arrange a warm bath for the plant - put the flowerpot in a basin for 8-12 hours with warm water at a temperature of 36-38 degrees.
If you want to achieve flowering in winter, on New Year's Eve, increase the lighting, bringing it to the length of a summer day, up to 10-14 hours.

Blooming room hydrangea

In order for the indoor bush to delight you with abundant color, it is worth taking into account the following recommendations:

An adult plant is cut 20-25 cm from the ground, planting it in the ground for the winter.
Next, cover it with spruce branches and dry leaves, and after opening it in the spring, cut it to the very level of the ground.
In late August - early September, plant the hydrangea in a tub.

Note! It is recommended to water abundantly, and in the next 5 years the bush will delight you with abundant flowering. With regard to the choice of a flowerpot - if there is one shoot in the bush, its diameter will be 10-12 cm, 2-3 shoots - it is optimal to choose a flowerpot with a diameter of 15 cm, for a large specimen - 17-20 cm.

Improper watering

Hydrangea got its Latin name Hydrangea ("vessel with water") for its love of moisture. This is especially noticeable for young (under three years old) plants. The soil around the roots of the hydrangea should not dry out, so in the summer heat it is watered every 3 days, and in cool weather - once a week. Depending on the size of the bush, each plant requires 1 to 1.5 buckets of water

It is equally important to consider the quality of the soil. Heavy and clayey soils are watered less often, and sandy and sandy loamy soils, respectively, more often and more abundantly

For watering hydrangeas, it is better to use rainwater or tap water that has been separated for at least 4-5 days.

Nitrogen is a very important chemical element for plants. Lack of this substance can lead to the fact that the shrub stops growing and its leaves turn yellow. However, an excess of this substance is no less dangerous for plants. Hydrangeas overfed with nitrogen build up green mass, but do not bud.

In order for the plant to please you with a long and abundant flowering, you need to follow the feeding schedule. During the season, the hydrangea is fed 3-4 times, however, nitrogen fertilizers are applied only in the spring, when the bush especially needs them. In other cases, the plants are fed with nitrogen-free complexes.

What is nitrogen fertilizers and how to use them correctly
It is difficult to overestimate or not notice the effect of nitrogen fertilizers on plants. It immediately catches the eye in the form of dark green lush foliage. The application of nitrogen fertilizers in the spring is a guarantee of the correct growth of garden crops, flowers, bushes and trees.

What to do

In order for the plant to develop normally and not change the shade of the buds, it is important to take timely measures when the first symptoms appear.

Make adjustments to the care of the shrub

When the hydrangea changes its shade, it is worth revising the rules of care:

Water the bush every few days after the soil is completely dry. It is recommended to spray the leaves with a spray bottle after sunset.
Watch out for pests that deplete the culture. At the first sign, special chemicals (insecticides) are used.
Make top dressing in a timely manner. Complex mineral additives are used, designed for a specific variety. An excessive amount of one substance leads to disturbances in the flowering process.
Protect the plant from excessive exposure to sunlight.

In some cases, it is recommended to transplant the plant to a new site. This will saturate the roots with the necessary substances.

Proper care is the basis for long-lasting flowering

Change the acidity of the soil

To obtain the required acidity level, the following steps should be taken:

In areas with low pH, substances such as chalk and dolomite flour are added to the soil.
In areas with a high level of acidity, sulfur components and aluminum sulfate are used. These substances are necessary for the normal development of culture.
Peat and coniferous bark are used for sawing the soil.
To accurately find out the type of soil, litmus strips are used.

On a note! For quick acidification of the soil, you can use a citric acid solution. The substance is used in a proportion of 1 teaspoon per 10 liters of water.

When growing hydrangeas, gardeners often face the problem of changing the color of the buds. The most common cause is improper maintenance or the wrong type of soil. To fix the problem, you should revise the care procedure, since a color change can signal the appearance of irreversible processes.

The reasons for the lack of flowering in some species and varieties

Different types of hydrangea have their own, characteristic only of this variety, the reasons for the absence of flowers and buds. Among garden hydrangeas, the following are especially popular:

Hydrangea paniculata;
Large-leaved hydrangea;
Hydrangea.

Consider the most likely reasons why they do not bloom.

Hydrangea paniculata

Panicle hydrangea is the most frost-resistant species... It tolerates cold so easily that it is not necessary to cover it at all for the winter. Its buds do not freeze, as the inflorescences are formed on the shoots of the current year. However, this species may not bloom for some other reason.

The main reason why panicle hydrangea does not bloom is the unsuitable composition of the soil. For such a plant, heavy loamy soil with weak acidity is more suitable. Light sandy soils are not acceptable for this species.

Also, very often the plant refuses to bloom due to lack of nutrition.

Therefore, special attention must be paid to feeding.

Large-leaved hydrangea

Why the large-leaved hydrangea does not bloom: most often due to freezing of shoots and buds. There are many varieties of this species that have different winter hardiness.

While some of them can be grown in the open field, covering for the winter, others freeze out even with careful shelter. These varieties can only be grown indoors as pot plants.

Pruning large-leaved hydrangeas should also be done carefully.Flowers are formed on last year's shoots, which cannot be touched during pruning.

If you shorten them, the flower buds will be removed and the plant will not bloom.

Hydrangea

This species is quite frost-hardy. However, if the bushes are not covered, in a harsh winter, most of the flower buds will freeze. In summer, the frozen bush will not bloom. Therefore, the plant needs to be covered for the winter.

It is necessary to feed this species regularly, first with fertilizers for the growth of leaves, then with fertilizers for flowering. Without feeding, the plant will refuse to bloom.

The reason why the tree hydrangea does not bloom may be improper watering. In dry soil, especially in the summer heat, such a bush develops very slowly and never blooms.

Hydrangea bloom

Seeing a delicate and graceful flower, it is impossible to take your eyes off. The shrub has about 80 species. Types of hydrangeas:

Garden: treelike, paniculate, broad-leaved. All these species are quite unpretentious in care and do not require special attention.
Pereshkovaya. Also applies to the garden subspecies. Requires serious care. A climbing plant, which is usually used to decorate front entrances, arches and a perlog.
Room, potty. Short-lived. After three to four years, the plant needs to be transplanted.

Additional Information. The beautiful flower got its name in honor of the sister of the prince of the Holy Roman Empire - Princess Hortense. According to legend, she was conquered by a long flowering plant. In addition to the long flowering period, the age of the shrub can be calculated in years. The paniculate species, for example, lives up to 60 years.

Each type of shrub blooms at a different time. However, the beginning of blooming of flowers occurs in the summer and continues until the end of autumn.

Flowering period

During the flowering period of hydrangea, the shrub is covered with buds of different colors. Brightness and shade depend on the composition of the soil and the use of a particular fertilizer.

If the soil is neutral, the plant will produce creamy flowers. With alkaline, pink buds will appear. In an acidic environment, they are bright blue.

As a rule, the plant begins to bloom in mid-late July, blooms in late October.

Flowering features

Small flowers of the plant are collected in lush inflorescences, having different shapes, depending on the species:

Spherical (paniculate),
Thyroid.

It happens that not all buds open. In this case, this is due either to the age of the shrub (it was planted last year), or to incorrect pruning in the fall.

Hydrangea inflorescence

In each inflorescence, 2 types of flowers develop:

The first are small, in the middle part;
Others are more noticeable, placed along the very edge.

The necessary conditions

The prerequisites for good flower development are:

Weeding and loosening the soil,
Top dressing,

Note! At the beginning of summer, it is necessary to mulch the shrub with sawdust or peat so that moisture from the soil does not quickly evaporate.

The correct watering regime,
Pruning.

When it starts to bloom

Each grower is concerned about the question of what year after planting the hydrangea begins to bloom. As a rule, the shrub can give the first buds the next year.

Large-leaved hydrangea Renata Steiniger blooms a year after planting

Sometimes it happens that the bush will cover with bright flowers only after 2-3 years

In this case, you should pay attention to the correctly selected soil when planting, and also choose a place with penumbra

The most popular varieties of hydrangea paniculata

Hydrangea Pinkie Winky. This variety differs from all others in that it always has a sharp tip on the inflorescences, on it fertile flowers that do not open and look like a mouse tail from afar. This is a very persistent species, it is not afraid of rain, it withstands the wind well. The flowers are initially white, but over time they turn to a beautiful raspberry hue. The bush reaches 2 meters.
Hydrangea Limelight.The height of the bush is 120-150 centimeters. Peduncles are composed mainly of large flowers. The size of the inflorescence is 30 centimeters. The bush is very elegant and compact. It begins to bloom in a lemon-yellow, low-contrast color, at the end of flowering, hydrangea lime light turns bright white. This is a plant of extraordinary beauty.
Hydrangea paniculata Vanilla freise (Hydrangea vanilla freise). Planting and care is done in the same way as for other types of hydrangea. This bush is just fireworks, explosion and delight in the garden. You cannot name it otherwise. This bush is extraordinarily beautiful. The height of the vanilla freise hydrangea is 150-170 centimeters. It blooms, as a rule, in late June and blooms until October. Flowering begins with white flowers, and then, literally in a few weeks, you can see that a pink tint will appear on the inflorescence and the peduncle will resemble vanilla - strawberry ice cream. On one bush there will be peduncles of different color. There are inflorescences that are just entering the process of pink design, and there are those that are completely covered in pink. The sight is simply extraordinary. Not a single person will pass by this bush. This is the most popular variety among lovers of panicle hydrangea. Its inflorescences are very large and dense. Their structure is similar to clouds, which gives a special charm and tenderness to this bush. Its shoots are quite strong, but due to the large size of the inflorescences, they cannot withstand the rain, so it is recommended to tie up each branch. At the end of the flowering season, Vanilla freesi takes on a very “tasty shade”.
Silver dollar. Height 2-2.5 meters. The bush is strong and resilient. It blooms in a snow-white color, then turns pink and goes into brown. A very popular variety. It looks great on any flower bed and in any landscape design.
Vish is one of the earliest panicle hydrangeas. Has a scent. The smell is very delicate, the delicate variety is very patient and hardy.
Hydrangea Little Lime. This is a miniature copy of Limelight. The hats are small, very pretty. First they bloom in white and yellow, then turn pink. The height of the bush is up to 1 meter. This is a real flower bed. A very original shrub for small gardens.
Phantom. We are very fond of landscape designers for the fact that it grows quickly and efficiently. The height and width of the bush reaches 2 meters. Blooms in June and blooms until October. Peduncle height - 25-30 cm This variety is the largest of all varieties of paniculate species. Its inflorescences are very large, densely packed. Does not get wet from rain and does not react to it in any way. The bush does not require a garter. Withstands the wind very well. Initially, it is white or with a shade of ivory, but at the end of flowering, somewhere in the middle of September, the flowers acquire a pale pink tint. It is also necessary not to forget that this variety of panicle hydrangea requires a lot of space.
Mega mindy. Small bush 125-150 centimeters. It blooms white and then turns into a bright red. A miniature, elegant variety.
Grandecora. The height is 2.5 meters, sometimes a little less. Mostly sterile flowers are 30-35 centimeters in size. A very beautiful bush.
Hydrangea paniculata Weems ed. Uncommon variety. Blooms early enough, at the end of June and before snow. It begins to bloom in white and turns into a bright red, even scarlet color. This variety is very aromatic. Its sweet scent will drive any hydrangea lover crazy. Height 125-150 centimeters. The flower stalks are small, but due to the bright color the hydrangea wims red deserves attention.
Hydrangea paniculata Pinky vinca. The height of the bush reaches 2 meters. They begin to bloom in white, and then there is a gradual staining of the inflorescences to a pink-red hue.
Hydrangea Grade is old. Pure white bush, the color of the inflorescences does not change during flowering. The flowers are like a propeller, about 5 centimeters. Great old hydrangea bush is resistant to bad weather.It is no exaggeration to say that this bush will become a diamond in your flower bed. Plant great and you will be captivated by the beauty of this insanely beautiful shrub.

How to make calla lilies bloom

It is not always easy to make calla lilies bloom again, especially if the reason for this behavior has been incorrectly identified. So that the problem does not arise even at the stage of planting the plant, it is necessary to choose a pot that is suitable in size. Its volume in diameter should be 5-7 cm larger than a well-spread root system of the bush.

Planting equipment must be soaked in a disinfecting solution, and garden tools must be disinfected. It is necessary to study how calla lilies reproduce in advance, because during the procedure, both the bulbs and the shoots of the bush can be damaged in a vegetative way.

Note! If the sections are not treated in time with special disinfecting solutions, through them the plant can become infected with infectious diseases.

Ensuring proper watering

Calla requires abundant and frequent watering. During the active period, the flower is watered 2-3 times a week. In the fall, watering should be reduced gradually. By the end of September, the bush is watered twice a week, then once. The same number of times they continue to carry out the procedure until the onset of spring.

Watering calla lilies with tap water is a big mistake. It is tough in composition, as it contains chlorine and other harmful chemicals. Also, you cannot use cold or hot liquid. Rain or melt water can be used, but if this is not possible, it is necessary to let the tap liquid settle for at least 4 hours. Only then can you thoroughly water the bush with it.

Important! To settle tap water, it is poured into a wide container to allow chlorine to evaporate faster. For the same purpose, the liquid must be stirred periodically.

It is recommended to transplant a bush into a new pot in the spring.

Transferring calla lilies to a spacious pot

Calla will grow well and bloom on time if it is transplanted into a properly selected container. It is necessary to repot the plant as soon as it grows in size and the old pot becomes cramped for it.

Step-by-step transplantation into a new container:

First you need to take care of drainage, as calla lilies are very fond of wet soil. At the bottom of the container, expanded clay crumbs or small pebbles are poured so that excess water cannot stagnate in the soil.
A nutritious and loose soil mixture is prepared from light turf soil, river sand, humus and Superphosphate.
The drainage is covered with a small layer of substrate and leveled.
A seedling is placed in a container and covered with earth.
Lightly press down with your hand and water the soil around the trunk circle.
Mulch it with sawdust or pebbles slightly larger than drainage.

Providing a dormant period for calla lilies

If the calla is not allowed to rest in the winter, then it most likely will not bloom in the time allotted to it. Sometimes the flower itself does not leave for the winter, but instead continues to bloom. You should not be happy about this behavior, because buds should not be allowed to bloom in winter. Every autumn, after applying the last fertilizer for the season for garden calla lilies, it is necessary to give it a rest until spring comes. If the plant does not retire, it must be done forcibly.

First, you need to gradually reduce the temperature and watering the bush. In the last months of autumn, reduce lighting and move the bush to a dark place. The temperature of the plant during wintering should be no more than 18 ° C. In this state, it should be at least 1.5 months, in the spring you need to fertilize calla with organic matter, starting life processes.

Calla lilies can be fed not only with liquid, but also with granular fertilizers.

Increasing the amount of feeding

Before puzzling over the question of how to feed calla lilies for abundant flowering, you need to find out what fertilizers are generally required to be used as top dressing. These are complex mineral preparations rich in phosphorus, nitrogen, iron and potassium. Closer to the set of buds, the content of nitrogen and iron must be excluded from fertilizers.

Important! Bad depleted soil must be fertilized with organic fertilizers: humus, manure, compost. Organics are used only for the first and last feeding, and mineral preparations - once a month

In order not to have problems in growing calla lilies, it is better to avoid mistakes in care.

Calla lilies do not always bloom profusely and in a timely manner. There are many reasons for this behavior, but most growers believe that the problem is a lack of fertilizer. Nevertheless, you need to familiarize yourself with all the reasons, as improper treatment can damage the flower even more. To completely avoid such problems, it is worth taking care of the flower in a timely manner and avoiding mistakes.

Reproduction of perennial dahlias

Perennial dahlias reproduce vegetatively: by dividing tubers and cuttings. Only annual varieties reproduce by seeds.

Dividing dahlia tubers.

Dahlia tubers can be divided in autumn and spring. In autumn, rhizomes dug out and peeled from the ground are cut into several pieces. If the bush grew in two or three shoots, then first you need to divide the nests so that each one has one stump

We loosen and carefully stretch the nests to the sides, being careful not to damage the root collar, which is attached to the hemp from the stem. On the root collar are the buds of renewal - the eyes

Now you need to cut the tubers so that each part has a piece of the root collar with one, two or three eyes. You need to divide with a sharp tool (knife, pruner, scissors), starting with the hemp. Each such division can have from one to three tubers and necessarily a part of the root collar with 1-3 buds.

When dividing the tubers in spring, we take them out of the storage area and carefully examine them. All rotten parts must be cut off, dried roots and nodules must be removed. Treat the cut points with brilliant green or ash. To make it convenient to divide, we place the tubers in boxes with sand or sawdust and put them in a warm, bright place.

When the buds wake up and sprouts appear, it will be clearly visible how best to cut the tubers. You can start dividing. The procedure is the same as in the fall.

Cutting dahlias.

Dahlias are propagated by cuttings when there is little planting material, but you need to get a lot of bushes. This method is also good for rejuvenating a degenerating variety.

In early March, the tubers intended for cuttings are removed from the storage area and examined. Prepared tubers are planted in boxes or other containers, covered with a light substrate (sand, sawdust, coconut substrate, and other mixtures), moistened. The root collar should be free of dust on the surface.

Try to cut the stalk with a part of the tuber.

Place containers in a bright warm place for germination. As soon as the shoots hatch, the temperature is lowered to 16-18 degrees so that the shoots do not stretch out. After two to three weeks, you can start grafting.
Shoots with two or three pairs of leaves are cut with a very sharp tool, trying to grab a small piece of the tuber. Such cuttings with a "heel" take root better. But you can simply cut off the shoot at the very base without damaging the tuber. In this case, the cuttings will take longer to root.

For better rooting, you need to dip the cutting into a rooting stimulator (root, heteroauxin). Plant the cuttings to a depth of 2 cm in a light nutritious soil, water and cover with a plastic bag or a transparent plastic bottle. The optimum temperature for rooting is 20-25 degrees. Care is normal. Periodically, the cuttings should be ventilated, if necessary, moistened.

Dahlia shoots take root within two to three weeks. When the roots grow, the cuttings begin to grow, the shelter can be removed and the temperature can be reduced to 16-18 degrees.
Before planting in open ground, the seedlings need to be hardened, accustoming them to fresh air. Plant in late May - early June, when the threat of frost has passed.

Why doesn't it bloom and what to do?

Sometimes gardeners are faced with the fact that flowers never appear. It happens that the buds still cannot open, they begin to fade and fall off. The reasons for this may be:

improper care;
preparations to stimulate flowering;
acidity of the soil;
depletion of the strength of the plant.

Plant processing

Due to the treatments used by unscrupulous flower shop sellers, flowers may not appear for several years. In this case, you have to help the culture by introducing a growth activator. It promotes the strengthening and development of the root system, helps the stems and twigs develop, is effective in regards to the growth of greenery, and allows accelerating the growth of flowering perennials.

Incorrect cropping

Gardeners do not always prune correctly. The perennial is pruned at the end of October. In this case, it is necessary to leave on the shoots several pairs of formed buds. Usually bushes are formed in 2-3 years. Pruning can be lightweight, in which the bush gets rid of dry inflorescences and overgrown shoots.

When spring comes, the stems are shortened, this contributes to a more lush flowering. They do this before the sap flow begins. Each type of hydrangea has its own pruning nuances. For example, large-leaved bushes need sanitary pruning. In this case, cut off frozen, broken shoots and stems, the growth of which thickens the shrub.

Treelike get rid of weakened and crooked shoots, as well as stems that are more than 3 years old. Fresh growths are pruned by examining the stems themselves. The weaker they are, the more pruning. Varieties of the paniculate type require gentle pruning. In this case, the shoots that grow inside the crown are cut off, young growths are cut off to 1-3 pairs of buds.

Kidney damage

It happens that the reason for the lack of flowers lies in damage to the kidneys, which happens in bad weather. This phenomenon is widespread and characteristic of large-leaved hydrangeas. Usually, such perennials have flower buds on the tops of the stems formed a year ago. The perennial blooms on last year's growth; during its shelter for the winter, it is necessary to preserve the stems completely.

The kidneys should not be allowed to freeze in winter. If this has already happened, they have to be deleted. You should not wait for flowers this season, however, after a few years the perennial will delight the gardener with lush inflorescences and long flowering. The shelter is removed from the perennial only when the temperature at night will be at least -5 ° C.

Acclimatization of the variety

Hydrangea came to our country from Central Asia. Its climatic conditions differ significantly from the climate of different regions of the Russian Federation. Other varieties simply do not have time to acquire new flower buds.For this reason, they do not bloom after wintering. In some cases, the flowering is rather poor, the buds are sluggish, they do not have enough strength to open.

Improper nutrition

A weak perennial may not bloom for several years. To help an ornamental plant gain strength, you must remember to provide it with proper and balanced nutrition. At the same time, it cannot be overfed with organic matter, because this also reduces the likelihood of lush inflorescences. Than to oversaturate the garden or indoor beauty, it is better to dose the top dressing. Nitrogen is introduced in the spring in a small amount. Potassium and phosphorus are added only after it.

Excessive illumination

Most hydrangea varieties are not able to give gardeners a lush bloom if planted incorrectly. Only a few varieties of hydrangea love light, although they also need it no more than 6-8 hours a day.

In order for a perennial to bloom in an open space, gardeners have resorted to various tricks. For example, they plant a plant 10 cm below the soil level, covering the near-stem circle with mulch (sawdust or peat). There should not be a lot of shadow around the bush. Hydrangea needs diffused sunlight, can put up with partial shade.

Lack or excess of moisture

The place for planting perennials is selected correctly, it is important to provide hydrangeas with good drainage. A place for a garden plant is selected so that melt (rain) water cannot stagnate in it

Do not plant hydrangea next to garden trees. In this case, the plant will experience a moisture deficit.

It must be watered regularly, but correctly. You can not moisten a perennial in the afternoon in the heat, watering should be done in the evening or in the morning, but not more than 3 times a week. If it's not hot outside, watering the bush once a week is enough. Depending on the size of the bush, watering may require 1 to 1.5 buckets of water. If the soil is sandy, watered more often, if clay - less often.

How to care for a flower after flowering?

With regard to paniculate, as well as tree-like varieties, it is cut off, while the large-leaved one should not be touched for the winter, since it knocks out flowers on old shoots. Most of the care is carried out in the fall.

How to trim?

In this case, you can carry out one of 2 types of pruning:

If a bush knocks out a flower on last year's shoots, it should be as gentle as possible, by forming a crown, without affecting the bulk. Leaves and old inflorescences are simply removed.
If the inflorescences are formed on a young shoot, in the fall you can remove the bulk of the bush, or all, practicing it not every year, but with an interval of every 2-4 years.

Note! The panicle hydrangea is trimmed to the oldest shoots, leaving 2-4 main ones, and the indoor hydrangea is cut sparingly, forming a crown more than pruning as such.

Preparing for winter

For the winter, the trimmed bush is covered with a dense, natural burlap that allows air to pass through.

In addition, such preparatory work is carried out:

At the end of September, the old foliage is removed and the pruning recommended in accordance with the variety is started.
After pruning, potash and phosphate fertilizers are applied, which will provide the hydrangea with the necessary and sufficient nutrition in winter. But it is forbidden to apply nitrogen fertilizers.
Next, the bush is wrapped with material for the winter.

Hydrangea transplant

When transplanting a plant, it is worth keeping a distance of 1-1.5 meters between the bushes, and the depth of the pit - at least 60 cm.When planting hydrangeas, fertilizers such as urea and granular superphosphate, potassium and organic fertilizers are added to the hole.