Iris german

Redhaven Peach Description

The Redhaven peach (also known as Redhaven) represents the American school of breeding. It was created in 1940 at the University of Michigan as an industrial hybrid. Currently, about 70% of the peach plantings in individual and farms in America and Western Europe are occupied by the Redhaven variety.

Redhaven is the leader among peach varieties in taste

The tree grows to 5 m (on almond rootstocks - up to 3 m) in height, medium-leafy, with a spherical crown. Large dark green leaves (15-18 cm long and 2-3 cm wide), shiny. The lanceolate leaf blade has a finely serrated edging. Single flowers of medium size (up to 22 mm in diameter). They contain 5 rounded, bright pink petals. Fragrant flowers sit tightly on annual shoots. The flowering period of the tree is from late April to mid-May.

The tree is medium-sized, with a round or conical crown of medium density

Fruit characteristics - table

Redhaven peach color is yellow with a big washed out carmine blush

Overview video about the Redhaven variety

Breeding methods for veronicastrum

Veronicastrum can be grafted, propagated by dividing a bush, or by seed. It is undesirable to perform these manipulations at a time when the perennial is blooming. They are carried out in early spring or autumn.

Reproduction by dividing the bush

Reproduction of veronicastrum by dividing the bush photo

The perennial rhizome is carefully removed from the soil and divided into parts.
Each layer must have a live shoot.
The rhizome of an adult plant is stiff. Therefore, an ax can be used to cut it apart.
Layers should be planted in the ground as quickly as possible, avoiding airing and drying out .. It is advisable to decide in advance on the landing site and prepare the holes

If a flower needs to be transported, a clod of earth with a root must be well shed and wrapped in film.

It is advisable to decide in advance on the landing site and prepare the holes. If a flower needs to be transported, a clod of earth with a root must be well shed and wrapped in film.

Propagation by cuttings

Propagation of veronicastrum by cuttings

For propagation using cuttings, planting sites with loose, organic-rich soil are first prepared. Then cuttings are cut and rooted. You can first hold the cuttings in water until the roots appear and then plant them in containers for growing.

These treatments are best done in early spring before hot weather. Rooted cuttings are transferred to the place where they will grow constantly. In autumn, young plantings must be mulched to prevent freezing. After two years, veronicastrum, which is propagated by cuttings, will bloom.

Growing veronicastrum seedlings from seeds

Veronicastrum virginiana fascination growing from seed to seedlings

Seed propagation of veronicastrum involves growing seedlings. For this, containers with fertile soil are used.

• The seeds are buried half a centimeter and spilled with water.
• Then the containers are covered with glass or covered with foil.
• The seeds of the plant sprout on average in ten days.
• Watering is needed moderate, drainage is required (holes in the bottom of the cup or container).
• The grown seedlings are planted in the soil at the end of May.

Landing

Black Jewel raspberry cuttings with exposed roots are planted in spring or fall. Before winter, it is better to plant 2-3 weeks before the onset of cold weather, so that new shoots do not have time to grow, otherwise, fragile, they will not withstand frost and die. Cuttings in containers or with a lump of earth are planted at any time from spring to autumn.

Raspberry with Black Jewel variety can be bred on loamy and sandy loam soil of any acidity. It is better to allocate a place on the site that is not shaded so that buildings and large trees remain on the north side, they will protect raspberries from cold winds.

Holes for planting cuttings are dug out in advance for 2-4 weeks. For a spring planting, it is better to prepare a place in the fall. Holes or trenches are dug to a depth of 40-45 cm, filled by a third with organic and mineral fertilizers, it can be: humus, compost, last year's manure or chicken droppings, wood ash or a mineral composition with superphosphate and potassium salt. Such a nutrient mixture will help the young plant quickly take root in a new place, and will also provide the shrub with adequate nutrition in the early years.

If the site is in a lowland, then some stones or gravel need to be poured on the bottom for drainage.

After planting, holes or trenches are abundantly watered and mulched for better aeration of the root system.

Types and varieties of veronicastrum with photos and descriptions

Among gardeners, two types of plants are widespread: Siberian and Virginian.

Veronicastrum Siberian Veronicastrum sibirica

Veronicastrum Siberian Red Arrow Veronicastrum sibirica Red Arrow photo

Grows in Russia. From the temperate zone to the north. Frost-resistant, does not need shelter for the winter. It easily tolerates air temperatures up to thirty degrees of frost. The perennial has a powerful root system. Its stems are straight, not branched, up to two meters high. The leaves of the plant cover the entire stem in tiers. They are oblong and large. In natural nature, the plant forms tall, straight thickets.

During the flowering period, the plant throws out spikelets - inflorescences. Their length is about thirty cm. The flowers are small, usually blue in color, with an attractive aroma.

Red Arrow variety. Height - 0.8 m. The color of the leaves is green, and the young shoots are purple. The color of the inflorescences is crimson. Flowering period July - September. This variety is the shortest;

Veronicastrum virginicum Veronicastrum virginicum

Veronicastrum Virginia Veronicastrum virginicum Erica photo

The flower is also frost-resistant, does not need winter shelter. Easily tolerates temperatures down to -25-28C. The root system is well developed. Stems are straight, branched, up to one and a half meters high. Dark green leaves cover the entire stem. They are arranged in tiers, with 5-7 leaves in one tier. During the flowering period, the tops of the stems are covered with spikelet inflorescences. Their length reaches 30 cm, and the color depends on the type of flower.

The following varieties of Veronicastrum Verginsky are used:

Veronicastrum virginiana Veronicastrum virginicum Temptation photo

Templetation. Height - 1.3 m. The color of the leaves is light green. Inflorescence color - light blue, lilac;

Erika. Height - 1.2 m. The color of the leaves is green. The color of the inflorescences is pink. At the tops, the petals are darker than at the bottom;

Veronicastrum Virginia Fascination Fascination Photo

Fascination. Height - 1.3 m. The color of the leaves is gray. Inflorescence color - pink-lilac;

Veronicastrum virgin variety Veronicastrum virginicum Album photo

Album. Height - 1.3 m. The color of the leaves is dark green. The color of the inflorescences is white. Stems with dense foliage;

Veronicastrum virginicum Apollo Veronicastrum virginicum Apollo photo

Apollo. Height - 1 m. The color of the leaves is green. The length of the leaves is up to 20 cm. The color of the inflorescences is lilac. Plants of this variety look the most lush due to the large number of leaves and inflorescences.

Planting and reproduction of irises of this varietal group

Before you start planting Dutch irises, pay attention to the choice of planting material. Seed (generative) reproduction is not recommended for this group of varieties, since these are hybrids that, when grown in this way, may not emerge or will bloom only for 3-5 years of life.

For this reason, Dutch irises are most often sold in florist shops as bulbs or rhizome cuttings for planting. For plants to grow healthy, pay attention to the condition of the planting material and its appearance. Let's try to figure out how to choose it correctly.

Choosing bulbs for planting

When buying a part of the rhizome of the Dutch type, pay attention to the fact that it should be a healthy, slightly dried cut, most often they sell root growths, which are cut off when transplanting or dividing the bush. Leaves must be present on the rhizome

The middle plate should be of a rich green hue, the outer ones may have a slightly brown or yellowish tone, since after the cut the delenki are dried. A rhizome cut with a uniform texture indicates that the mother plant was healthy. Axillary roots, just like the foliage, are pruned to 10-15 cm. Pay attention to the presence of recovery buds - they most often, like marsh irises, are formed under the fans of leaves or in the axillary root zones.

When choosing bulbs, look at its size. In height, it should not exceed 6-7 cm. If it is more, then the plant was overfed with fertilizers with a high nitrogen content. Such planting material is not recommended for growing irises, as adult plants will be deprived of the necessary immunity to diseases.

Period for planting

For planting Dutch irises using rhizome cuttings, the period is chosen when the plant is in the dormant stage. The optimal beginning of autumn is the first days of September and until the middle of the month. Prepare the soil where the irises will grow before planting. If the soil in this area is heavy and clayey, then it is dug up with the addition of sand of the middle fraction and peat. Too light sandy soils are heavier with river clay. On swampy and waterlogged soils, iris will also not be able to grow. Their drainage and the creation of good drainage are required. Organic nutrients should also be applied before planting irises - mullein and other fertilizers work well. When digging a site, remove all rhizomes, even small ones, since when they grow, they injure the root system of the irises and take away nutrients.

The hole for planting rhizomes should be about twice as wide as the delenka. The soil is well moistened with soft water, a mound is poured into the center and the rhizome is placed with the leaves up. When planting, make sure that the axillary roots do not intertwine with each other. The rhizome sinks to a depth of no more than 15 cm, so that there is 3-5 cm of earth to the ground surface. If you lower it deeper, then the plant will rot. After work, mulch the planting with a layer of leaves, bark or peat. It is this layer that will keep moisture and coolness in the soil in the next season and will keep the planting in the winter. Bearded irises are also planted for lush flowering.

Bulb planting

Planting Dutch irises with bulbs is even easier. Before planting, the material is soaked for several hours in a fungicide solution. This is necessary to prevent rotting of the tuber underground.Dug up soil in a permanent place must be disinfected. To do this, use a manganese solution that is spilled into the soil a few hours before planting. It will kill all unwanted germs and harmful bacteria. Dutch iris bulbs are planted in loose, slightly moist soil at a distance of 15-20 cm from each other. Then it is covered with a small layer of soil so that the neck, like that of the Siberian iris, looks out above the ground.

To grow Dutch iris at home, you can use the same planting material. Some growers, to obtain a houseplant of the Kasatikov family, resort to generative reproduction. The fact is that with proper care, the plant blooms in a pot faster and no less decorative. However, it is still easier to grow iris at home using bulbs or cuttings. The perennial has a compact root system that can do with a standard pot. If it starts to grow, then you can transplant the culture into a new, more spacious container. To grow iris, you will need a peat-based nutrient substrate in which we will root the planting material. The plant is transplanted into a pot only when leaves appear. To do this, use deep containers with good drainage.

Care

In terms of care, the goldenrod will not burden at all. He needs regular watering during the dry season, otherwise you can not wait for a beautiful flowering. Tall bushes can be propped up for belay. If self-seeding on the site is not included in your plans, the inflorescences are cut off immediately after wilting so that the seeds do not have time to ripen.

For the winter, the plant is cut off, leaving 10-15 centimeters of the stem above the soil level. All species tolerate frost well and do not need shelter.

Sometimes goldenrod suffers from powdery mildew, treatment of leaves and buds with a decoction of horsetail will help out.

Goldenrod in landscape design

Even hybrid forms are very hardy and retain the external naturalness of their wild predecessors. The plant is ideal for the most natural compositions, especially in combination with ornamental grasses. It can be planted in a flowerbed, in a rabatka, in a mixborder, along fences or as a tapeworm.

Photo 3. Canadian goldenrod

A tall goldenrod is usually placed in the background and it is important to make sure that it does not oppress any of the less hardy inhabitants of the site. Dwarf varieties are good in the foreground in borders

It's worth experimenting with single landings too.

Dwarf varieties are good in the foreground in borders. It is worth experimenting with single landings.

There are many goldenrod hybrids and it is possible to pick them up in such a way as to stretch the flowering and revive the garden in August. As neighbors for a handsome man with yellow inflorescences, species with red or orange flowers are excellent. You can play in contrast and sit next to representatives that bloom in blue.

Solidago looks advantageous with geleniums, purple echinacea, brilliant rudbeckia, graceful zinnia, round-leaved titonia, dahlias and various cereals.

Cut branches of goldenrod retain their decorative effect for a long time. The plant is suitable for bouquets or you can make a wonderful dried flower.

How to take care of it properly?

Emerald Gold Fortune euonymus is an undemanding crop and no special care is required. For the full growth of a shrub, it is enough to perform the following actions:

• watering should be carried out only when the topsoil has dried well, in the area where in the summer it rains once every one or two weeks, there is no need to water the culture at all;
• in order to keep the soil as moist as possible, it is worth mulching it, it is best to use sawdust for this;
• to form a certain appearance of the shrub, euonymus can be cut off.

Young bushes that have just been planted in the ground need special care.For them, a mandatory measure is loosening the soil, as well as removing weeds. Watering at this time is carried out more often to help the plant quickly take root, and after a few days you need to remove all excess greens, while loosening the soil near the bush.

Young bushes can be covered in winter, especially in regions with a cold climate; older plants winter well under any conditions. An additional care measure is feeding, which helps the euonymus to look lush, and the color of the greenery to make it brighter and more saturated. You can add additives in spring and autumn using compost, mineral additives and potassium-phosphorus mixtures.