Chrysanthemum spherical

Chrysanthemum varieties by inflorescence size and flower structure

All varieties of garden chrysanthemums are grouped according to some characteristics and characteristics. Plants can be either dwarf or gigantic. Height varies from 15 cm to 1.5 m. Due to the variety of shapes, sizes, colors of inflorescences, you can create a stunning colorful landscape.

Large-flowered chrysanthemums

Large flowers of various colors on strong long stems are ideal for composition and bouquets. They belong to the Astrov family, have a thickened root system, highly branched shoots. The leaf plate is large - 20 cm long, 10 cm wide. The shape of the edges is wavy without notches.

Large flowers can remain single or form multiple inflorescences with a diameter of baskets up to 30 cm.Flowers can be anemone, spherical, hemispherical, with simple, radial, spider-like, curly-bent inflorescences, The variety gives little seed, therefore reproduction by division is predominant bush.

The main advantage of large-flowered chrysanthemums is their excellent appearance. A huge selection of shades allows you to create beautiful compositions from different species, combine them with other small, tall shrubs. Most varieties bloom for more than 3 months and are frost-resistant. Flowers do not tolerate excessively moist soil, lack of heat and sun, and are susceptible to fungal diseases.

Medium-flowered varieties

Can be grown outdoors, in flower beds or in pots, as a decor for terraces and balconies. The height of the stems is 50-70 cm, the diameter of the flowers is up to 18 cm. The inflorescences are needle-like, flat or rolled into a tube. Most often they are used for site decoration. Popular varieties: Golden Fleece, Champagne Splash, Pink Chamomile.

Decorative indoor chrysanthemums with medium flowers require some maintenance. The pots must be periodically taken out to fresh air, placed in the shade. Do not need frequent watering, moisture can be replaced by spraying. So that the plant does not lose its decorative effect, it is necessary to regularly cut off dried stems and faded buds.

Small-flowered varieties

Compact small-flowered varieties grow in low bushes. Most of these species were bred in Korea, so they were allocated to a separate group of hybrids - the Korean chrysanthemum. Perennials quickly take root in open ground and in individual pots. They are used for garden decoration, like houseplants.

The height of the border variety does not exceed 30 cm. Medium-sized flowers can grow up to 50 cm. Tall representatives of the group are rare. They are grown under the cut to create bouquets and gift compositions. Small-flowered inflorescences are 2-5 cm.According to the shape of the bud, they are divided into the following types:

• Pom-poms with hidden inflorescences;
• Terry with petals;
• Simple, chamomile-like.

Small-flowered chrysanthemums with a spherical crown look very neat, indispensable in drawing up the design of the site. Flowers are striking with an abundance of colors. Unusual tones - burgundy, black, orange will become a real highlight of the flower bed. Low bushes are often called oaks, because of the similar shape of the leaves with the age-old tree.

Multiflora chrysanthemum: reproduction

Reproduction of chrysanthemums is possible in 3 ways:

• seeds;
• cuttings;
• dividing the bush.

Growing seedlings from seeds

Previously, boxes are prepared for seedlings. A layer of sand or expanded clay is poured onto the bottom for drainage, then covered with a layer of soil. It is better to use purchased seedling soil, as it has already been treated for diseases.If the soil is prepared at home, then it is frozen before use. The soil mixture is prepared from 50% sod land, 30% humus and 20% sand.
Seedlings are sown in February-March. Chrysanthemum seeds multiflora are scattered on moistened soil and covered with plastic wrap to create greenhouse conditions. The optimum temperature for germinating seeds is + 23-25 ​​° C. The soil is periodically moistened, the room with the seedlings is ventilated. After the appearance of the first leaves, the seedlings dive. Young chrysanthemums are fed twice a month with nitrogen fertilizers; with early sowing, they provide additional lighting to increase the length of daylight hours. Finished seedlings have a strong stem 15-20 cm high and a well-developed root system.

Cuttings

The easiest and most common way to reproduce chrysanthemums is to grow chrysanthemum multiflora from a cuttings. The cuttings of the plant fully carry all the properties of the mother plant, such as the color, shape and size of the bush. It is enough to take a couple of cuttings of the variety of interest to grow a new varietal flower for yourself.

A container for seedlings is pre-prepared. A bucket of sand is poured into the bottom of the container. Since chrysanthemums are picky plants, the sand does not need to be ignited. Then the soil is prepared, for this they mix a bucket of peat, a bucket of soil and half a bucket of sand. Large shriveled pieces of soil and plant residues are removed. Pour the resulting soil onto a layer of sand in a container, and mulch the surface with calcined sand. The soil layer for growing cuttings should be at least 12 cm. If you plan to grow only a few plants, the cuttings are rooted in peat tablets or in separate pots.

Cuttings of chrysanthemum multiflora are cut from the mother plant, starting in March. The size of the finished cutting is 10 cm, the lower leaves are removed. The finished cuttings are kept in a root solution for a day and stuck into the prepared soil at a distance of 8-10 cm from each other. Do not place the cuttings too close, cuttings take root well, and they start to grow rather quickly. A box with seedlings is kept in a warm room or a greenhouse with high humidity for 10-15 days, during which time the cuttings have time to take root. Young plants are planted in separate cups, pots or planted in the ground. Chrysanthemum multiflora seedlings are pinched after 7-8 leaves so that they grow a beautiful spherical shape.

Dividing the bush

To get several new ones from an overgrown adult plant, you can divide the mother bush. To do this, the plant is dug up, its root system is divided into several parts, then the shoots are cut or pinched and planted. When planting, watered abundantly and applied organic fertilizers.

This method of reproduction is less advantageous in comparison with cuttings, since it is not always possible to grow a bush of the correct spherical shape from a cut in the first year. In addition, cuttings can produce more new plants per season.

Top dressing of chrysanthemum multiflora

One of the main whims of chrysanthemum multiflora is the soil composition, so top dressing is simply necessary. Well-fertilized soil is the key to good development and formation of the bush, as well as its long flowering

This moment of caring for a chrysanthemum needs special attention.

Complex mineral (potassium-nitrogen and phosphorus) dressings are best combined with organic ones, such as mullein. The procedure for applying substances is carried out after watering or after rain.

The main trace elements required by the plant:

• potassium;
• nitrogen;
• phosphorus.

Chrysanthemum multiflora needs large amounts of nitrogen in order for the plant to form strong bushes and the largest leaves for a particular variety - this is one of the two most important elements during the growth of a bush.

Lack of nitrogen, especially in the period after planting a seedling, leads to negative consequences, up to the fact that the plant can begin to wither quickly. But its excess can be the result of excessive growth of leaf thickness, poor color of inflorescences.

The main role of potassium is to help the plant's immunity, which is exposed to a variety of external factors. If potassium is not enough, the plant will reduce water consumption, it will stay in bloom and age faster. Overdoing it with potassium is also dangerous, as the leaves can start to fade.

Phosphorus is always applied together with other fertilizers.

He is responsible for the formation of buds, the durability of inflorescences, which is important, since

every gardener wants to admire the flowers planted on the site longer, and it is also important when selling these flowers.

The peculiarity of phosphorus is that it is very difficult to overfeed the plant with it, since its amount is regulated by the chrysanthemum itself. But underfeeding is dangerous.

Nitrogen fertilization improves growth

Flowering may be delayed, the leaves will be smaller and their green color will be mixed with a bloom of blue and a reddish-purple bloom around the edges of the leaf. Phosphorus is added every time nitrogen-potassium fertilizers are applied.

Chrysanthemum multiflora needs calcium, magnesium and iron.

There are at least three stages of feeding the chrysanthemum.

When planting, a complex of nitrogen-potassium fertilizers with superphosphate or organic fertilizers with superphosphate is applied. Small-flowered, such as Korean multiflora, at the initial stage of the growing season like nitrogen-potassium substances, where potassium is the predominant element.

For large-flowered and tall chrysanthemums, the predominance of nitrogen in fertilizers is more important. The ratio of potassium, nitrogen and phosphorus for the undersized variety should be 1.8: 1: 1

Translated into grams per 1 sq. m. 45 g of potassium, 25 g of nitrogen and 25 g of phosphorus are introduced.
At the beginning of flowering, fertilizing is applied in proportions similar to the initial stage.
At the time of the appearance of buds - potassium and phosphorus (45 g and 25 g), nitrogen substances are no longer required.

Chrysanthemum multiflora is a beautiful and picky flower that will become a worthy decoration of a personal plot.

Reproduction of chrysanthemum multiflora

• cuttings;
• division of the bush (root);
• planting seeds.

Cuttings

The mother bush, which can please with good cuttings in the spring, is selected in the fall, during flowering. It should be a completely healthy shrub with good stem color. After cutting off all branches to the level of the root system, the bush is either moved to winter in a cool, but lighted room, or left to winter in the open ground.

Growing multiflora is good because it tolerates cold well, therefore, for reproduction and obtaining seedlings, you can not dig out the bushes, but simply create greenhouse conditions for them, covering them with foil or covering them with spruce branches.

If the plant will be wintering indoors, then before placing the dug out mother plant bush in a storage container (box or pot about 12 cm high), its roots must be freed from the ground and immersed in hot water with a temperature of up to +52 for a couple of minutes. ° C. This is necessary to neutralize possible larvae of nematode worms.

The mother liquor is stored until January at a temperature of +3 to +8 ° C, after which it is moved until February-March to a room with a higher temperature - first from +8 to +10 ° C, then from +10 to +15 ° C, so that the bush begins to come to life. At this time, you need to sometimes start watering the bush in the pot so that the ground is still wet.

When shoots begin to climb in late February and early March, the plant is slightly fed with a solution of ammonium nitrate, dissolving it in warm, settled water in a proportion of 1 g per 10 liters.

After shoots with 5-6 leaves grow in April, the procedure can be carried out.The cuttings should be cut and planted in pots of damp sand for them to take root. To enhance the effect, the pots are covered with a film, periodically removing it for airing.

In about a month, they will turn into good seedlings with normal strong roots, which can be planted in open ground or in a home pot with the onset of the May heat.

Ripening of cuttings and their cutting from the mother plant or several mother bushes occurs unevenly in time. It is better to place the first cut shoots in the refrigerator until the end of the formation of the entire volume of the planting mass. This will make it possible to cut the bushes at the same time.

In the southern regions, cuttings can be immediately planted in open ground, bypassing the procedure for growing seedlings in enclosed spaces. This saves time and material resources for the purchase of a substrate, a growth stimulator during cuttings, etc. Such a plant will definitely have time to bloom by autumn.

Reproduction by dividing the bush

Unlike propagation by cuttings, the division of a bush or root is done with the onset of relatively warm days, in April. The bush is dug up and those shoots that have a root are separated. These are ready-made seedlings that can be immediately planted in open ground. In the hole, the root is straightened, fertilizers are added and sprinkled with soil. This method is better suited for southern regions, where the climate allows the bush to stay warm.

Seed propagation

The boxes are preliminarily prepared, where the drainage material is poured onto the bottom - sand or eggshell with a layer about 3 cm high. Next comes a layer of fertilized soil. You can buy a ready-made mixture or prepare it yourself.

Seeds are planted already in February or March, so that they have time to sprout by the spring heat. The seeds are lightly pressed into pre-watered moist soil and covered with a film like a greenhouse.

Growing seeds should take place at a temperature around + 23 ° C. The soil must be watered as it dries and periodically ventilated the space under the film.

When the first shoots appear, the soil is fertilized with nitrogen fertilization in the proportions indicated on the package. Seedlings will be ready for planting in open ground or in a separate pot with a stem height of 15-20 cm with developed roots and petals.

Application in landscape

The use of spherical chrysanthemums in the landscape is diverse, the main thing is to take into account the height of the bush, the color of the buds, and the periods of flowering.

Chrysanthemums are ideally combined with any plants. They are often combined with low-growing varieties of garden plants. Especially advantageous "balls" look against the background of green plants.

Spherical varieties are used to decorate alleys, curbs, rabatok. They decorate terraces, recreation areas, placing flowerpots with them.

To decorate the site, it is recommended to choose undersized varieties with small flowers. These can be Korean varieties, spherical, and other types. Correctly selected plants will decorate the garden from July until late frosts. If you regularly remove faded buds, you can extend flowering up to four months.

Chrysanthemums look perfect with a wide variety of plants. They are unpretentious, withstand any neighborhood, even with ornamental cabbage. Bright, colorful shrubs are able to accentuate evergreen shrubs. Plants look great against the background of a green lawn. And no matter what chrysanthemums are planted with, they will always be appreciated, because these flowers are noble.

Types of chrysanthemum photos and names

There are indeed many varieties of this flower, however, their hybrids are most often planted in gardens - they are distinguished by rapid and abundant flowering, and are also represented by the widest assortment, which allows you to choose both small and large inflorescences for summer cottages. In some cases, the diameter of the bud can exceed 25 cm! At the moment, the following types of inflorescences can be distinguished, depending on their type:

Terry chrysanthemums

If the smallest of them are more unpretentious, then larger buds perfectly combine not only decorative properties in themselves, but are also perfect for cutting. However, not every summer resident is able to spend a long time in the garden, caring for chrysanthemums... Therefore, it is better to consider in more detail small-flowered varieties that do not require so much attention.

1. Alyonushka... Blossoms in September, has straight, without any signs of terry petals. Usually the shade of the buds is pale pink, the middle is yellow. Bushy, up to 50 cm in size;
2. Snowball... A very beautiful type of chrysanthemum, with an unusual inflorescence shape at the very beginning of flowering. Snow-white buds with light pink petals at the tips are about 60 cm in height;
3. Barkhan... They also reach 60 cm in height, but differ somewhat in the shape of the inflorescence and shade. The combination of creamy and warm orange makes the plant wonderfully decorative;
4. Mishal refers to pompon, as the buds are very lush, although quite small - about 4 cm in diameter. It is not as tall as the previous ones, and its size will be about 40 cm;
5. Terracotta - terry type of chrysanthemums. Intense orange flowers border yellowish petals. Possess the highest decorative effect;
6. Saba variety, perhaps, can be considered the brightest representative of these plants. Their core is green-yellow, and the petals are claret-lilac, along the edges of which there is a noticeable white or cream stripe. The diameter of the fully opened bud will be about 5 cm, and the height of the entire bush will be 70 cm.

Chrysanthemum care in autumn

Leaving spherical chrysanthemum for the winter should be smooth. Therefore, preparatory measures are provided depending on the region. In the middle lane, the chrysanthemum can winter without additional shelter in the open field, if weather forecasters do not promise fierce weather. In the Urals and Siberia, it is recommended to dig up the plant, because severe frost can destroy the entire collection.

Such wintering rules are used for domestic, common varieties. Foreign varieties are more demanding in terms of conditions and are not able to withstand a strong drop in temperatures. Depending on the characteristics of the variety, the bush can be dug out of the ground or even planted in a flowerpot for the winter.

The quality of wintering of plants depends on proper care in autumn. Subject to the basic recommendations, the chrysanthemum will retain its vitality and will thank the grower in the next season.

The main events in the fall and their purpose:

• pruning - will help maintain splendor, rejuvenate and heal the bush;
• top dressing - will replenish the supply of mineral compounds in the root system, they will provide nutrition during the wintering period;
• watering - needs to be adjusted to prevent decay and overdrying of seedlings.

Autumn events will also help you get quality breeding material for your favorite varieties. Chrysanthemum is unassuming at the time of propagation, the collected material will give roots by the end of autumn, and in the next season it will flourish in its variety.

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Pruning in the fall

Pruning is used for tall and medium-sized varieties to simplify the process of covering plants for the winter and cleaning in the cellar. Pruning is recommended after the onset of the first autumn cold weather. If the gardener wants to collect planting material from the bush, it is better to carry out the manipulation earlier, the frost will destroy the green mass and the cutting may not take root.

The length of cut shoots for tall varieties should not exceed 20 cm. Low-growing, curb bushes do not need pruning, they are easy to send for wintering in their original form

Before wintering, it is important to remove all damaged, overdried and unhealthy stems.

Watering

After flowering is complete, watering is reduced to 1 time per week, making it abundant. Before digging the plant out of open ground, the ground must be dried, therefore, cleaning into the basement is possible no earlier than 3-4 days after watering.

Top dressing

The plant requires nutrition during the budding period. After their dissolution, the volume of dressings is reduced and transferred from potassium-containing compositions to organic matter. The last feeding is carried out 2 weeks before extraction from open ground or wrapping for the winter.

Plant propagation

There are several methods for breeding your favorite variety. Most often, cuttings or division of rhizomes are used.

Attention! The method of propagation by seeds is rarely used, because the seedlings obtained rarely have the varietal characteristics of the mother plant.

The division of rhizomes can be carried out in spring or autumn after digging up the shrub. Rhizomes are divided into portions and planted until spring in flowerpots or placed in a cellar. Material from a healthy mother plant is suitable for propagation by cuttings. Cuttings 10-12 cm long are used and placed in wet peat or sand. If the procedure is carried out in the fall, use an impromptu greenhouse, wrapping the flowerpot with a film. You should not wait for the active growth of cuttings in winter, the rooting process will become noticeable in spring. After the temperature has stabilized and the frost has disappeared, the young bushes are planted and cared for as adult plants. When planting, drainage must be arranged.

How to plant a flower. The basics of proper care

Cultivation of spherical bushes occurs using the same technology for other chrysanthemums. Before planting, make sure to pick a spot that is fairly bright, protected from drafts, flooding and stagnant water. The soil should be loose, fertile. The best time to work is mid or late spring.

If you want to grow chrysanthemums from seeds, start germinating them back in March. Sow into a container of nutrient soil and squeeze lightly. Further procedures are standard for seedlings. In April-May, cuttings or adult chrysanthemum bushes are planted on the flower bed. The distance between the holes is about 0.6 m. Drainage must be poured at the bottom of the holes, and if the soil is not nutritious enough, fertilizer is placed (for example, peat or compost).

Caring for neat bushes is also quite common. Don't forget to water your plants as they love moist soil. Use warm, settled water, then loosen the soil. A couple of weeks after rooting, feed the chrysanthemum with a mixture containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Magnesium is beneficial before flowering. Exclude the nitrogen component during this period.

Attention! As a rule, chrysanthemum multiflora does not need shaping. If the bush does not look like a pretty ball, it probably lacks minerals in the top dressing.