Common varieties
Chrysanthemum cultivation is a favorite pastime of many gardeners. Indian chrysanthemum is classified into the following popular varieties:
- Aurora - the height of the bush reaches 1 meter. The buds are small, orange. With proper care, the buds can be up to 10 cm in diameter;
- Snow Elf - a feature of the variety is the buds in the form of pompons. Inflorescences are white with a weak aroma;
- Vimini are small yellow buds. The middle is covered with smaller brown petals. A number of large ones are located along the edges;
- Artist - a distinctive feature of the variety is a lush bush. The plant can grow up to 1.5 meters in height. Color mix consisting of pink and white stripes on the petals;
- Leopard - the plant reaches a height of up to 1 meter. The leaves are large, dark green. The buds are burgundy, large;
- Fanfare is a small bush. The peculiarity of the culture is the different color of the buds;
- Indian gazelle - bush height up to 1 meter. The buds are large. In diameter, they can reach up to 17 cm. Terry white petals.
Common varieties of chrysanthemums
Chrysanthemum Indian includes a mixture of different varieties, which differ in individual characteristics and color of the buds.
How to properly care for horticultural crops?
Care for a crop such as perennial garden chrysanthemum, like planting, is available to any gardener. It is imperative to take care of correct and timely watering, because these plants are very sensitive to insufficient moisture. This will be evidenced by the formation of rare and small flowers, as well as stiffening of the stem. But excess water should also be avoided, as the root system may begin to rot.
Stick to the golden mean (the soil under the bush should be slightly damp all the time), and pay attention to the weather (watering should be more frequent in hot weather, and infrequent in cold weather)
Cover the plant for the winter, for example, with dry twigs or spruce branches.
Chrysanthemums need fertilizers of both mineral and organic types. It is advisable to apply mineral fertilizer every two to three weeks. Moreover, during the growing season, nitrogen should prevail in the composition of top dressing, and then the emphasis is on potassium and phosphorus. Use fertilizer on the basis that it is enough to dilute 40 grams of the selected product in ten liters of water for two square meters of planting. In addition, three times a season you need to feed the flower with mullein infusion (it is diluted in a ratio of 1:10 with water). About one liter of solution is poured under each plant. In the morning of the next day (that is, after top dressing), the soil needs to be loosened.
Planting and caring for perennial chrysanthemums in the open field is a feasible job for any gardener. There are no difficulties as such. It is enough to know how to properly care for a chrysanthemum in the garden so that the plant pleases with long and abundant flowering. Consider the subtleties - and the plant will become a full-fledged element of the landscape design of the infield.
Growing chrysanthemums from seeds
Sowing chrysanthemums for seedlings
Seed propagation is used for growing both annual and perennial species, while perennial chrysanthemums are usually grown through seedlings, and for growing annual species, both the seedling method and sowing seeds directly into the ground are used. To grow chrysanthemum seedlings, you will need a shallow box and soil, consisting of equal parts of humus, greenhouse soil and peat.Such a mixture can be purchased in a garden pavilion, in which case it does not need to be sterilized before sowing. But if you made the substrate yourself, be sure to sift it and bake it in the oven at a temperature of 110-130 ºC.
Place a layer of drainage on the bottom of the drawer. It can be expanded clay or crushed brick. On top of the drainage layer, place the soil mixture prepared for sowing, level the surface and spread the chrysanthemum seeds over it. If you are sowing annuals, cover them with a 5 mm layer of substrate, and simply press the seeds of perennial varieties to the surface. Crops are sprayed from a spray bottle with settled water at room temperature and covered with foil or glass. They are kept awaiting germination at a temperature of 23-25 ºC, periodically ventilating, removing condensation from the coating and, if necessary, moistening the substrate from the spray bottle.
Chrysanthemum seedling care
Seedlings may appear in one and a half or two weeks. Once the seeds start sprouting, move the box to the brightest spot. Now you need to remove the cover briefly every day to help the seedlings get used to the room temperature. Gradually, the duration of these sessions should be increased so that the cover can soon be removed from the seedlings.
If chrysanthemums have sprung up too densely, at the stage of development of 2-3 true leaves, cut them into cups. The substrate can be used with the same composition, just do not forget to disinfect it and moisten it well before planting. Before starting the procedure, also water the substrate in the seedling boxes. When diving, be careful not to damage the fragile roots of the seedlings. Sluggish, poorly developing, weak and elongated plants are best discarded. The transplanted seedlings are not watered, but sprayed with a solution of the Epin or Zircon stimulant.
After the pick, the room temperature should be maintained at 16-18 ºC. How to care for a chrysanthemum after a dive? Further care consists in periodic watering and feeding the seedlings with a solution of complex mineral fertilizers, which are carried out every two weeks. If the seedlings lack light, install a phytolamp (gel, LED or any other lamp, except for ordinary incandescent lamps) above them at a height of 20-25 cm. Seedlings develop slowly, but after a month and a half they will already reach a height of 20 cm.
Reproduction of chrysanthemums
Reproduction of Korean perennial chrysanthemums is possible in several ways:
- cuttings;
- seeds;
- dividing the roots;
- layering.
Cuttings
Chrysanthemums Korean perennial winter hardy - in the photo, propagation by cuttings
Reproduction by cuttings is considered the simplest and most cost-effective way, where vegetation is consumed. The workpieces are cut with a sharp tool from well-developed shoots, with living internodes. The lower cut is made under the kidney. At each plot, at least three nodes must be present.
Remove excess leaves, deepen the cuttings into the ground by 3-3.5 cm. Cover with a glass, plastic cap. They use mobile small containers. Subsequent care consists in systematic humidification (watering, spraying), ventilation, and removal of condensate accumulating inside. After 2-3 weeks, the seedlings will take root.
Seeds
The seed version is optimal for small-flowered chrysanthemums. It guarantees early dissolution, good survival rate. A shallow container is adapted for sowing, the earth is filled up: breathable, fertile, light. Sowing is carried out in the last days of February.
Korean perennial winter-hardy chrysanthemums - seed reproduction in the photo
Seed material is scattered over the surface, slightly drowned with the palm of your hand. Cover with glass or stretch the film, creating a greenhouse effect. The boxes are rearranged in a warm place. Periodically, the greenhouse cover is opened slightly, sprayed with warm and settled water.The first shoots hatch 10-12 days after sowing.
With the formation of 2-3 strong leaves, they start picking (seating) in separate containers. After that, the seedlings are rearranged for 2-3 days in a cool place, without direct access to light. During this period, watered abundantly, but without stagnation.
2 weeks before moving to the garden, seedlings are prepared by hardening: they are taken out into the open air every day. Leave at first for 15 minutes, gradually increasing the time. By the end of May, the seedlings are fully ready for resettlement.
Bush division
The division of the bushes is possible only after the culture reaches three years of age. The mother bush is divided in early spring, with the appearance of the first young shoots.
Step by step of the event:
- They dig out the bush, having dug it in advance from all sides. Carefully, so as not to damage the rhizome, remove it from the soil without shaking off the earthen lump.
- Slightly spray the roots with a stream of water.
- A bush is cut into 2-3 parts with a sharp knife, leaving a separate horse growth and several shoots on each.
- The resulting seedlings are treated with a manganese solution.
- They are planted in holes dug in advance, covered with earth, watered.
- They cover plantings with spruce branches to protect them from the stinging sun rays.
This method allows you to rejuvenate perennial chrysanthemums, protect against possible diseases and restore their decorative appearance.
Layers
Korean perennial winter-hardy chrysanthemums - in the photo, reproduction by layering
Korean perennial chrysanthemums (winter-hardy varieties) are easily propagated by layering. The method involves dropping shoots next to the original plant. A low-lying branch is chosen, bent to the ground, laid in a dug groove and sprinkled. Fix with wire. Leave for the winter, and the next spring young roots appear. Then the layering is cut off from the mother bush, transplanted separately.
Care
Most frost-resistant chrysanthemums grow rapidly, but no more than 3 years in one place, after which the bush should be divided and transplanted into a separate place. These flowers need regular watering, but they can withstand a short drought. Chrysanthemums should not be watered while the buds are opening.
Due to the high growth rate, all varieties of winter-hardy chrysanthemums require timely feeding. Their graph looks like this:
- at the beginning of the growth of cuttings, nitrogen-containing fertilizers should be applied;
- after 2 weeks, bird droppings need to be added;
- during the formation of buds, you need to fertilize with phosphorus-potassium mixtures.
Also, for the formation of lush bushes, it is important to pinch them in the summer, when there are at least 10 leaves on the plant. This procedure will lead to an increase in the number of flowers per plant.
At the first frost, you need to prune, depending on the variety, it can be low or high.
All varieties of frost-resistant chrysanthemums bloom for about a month, in cut form they can stand in water for up to 3 weeks. They are at risk of diseases caused by fungi and bacteria. You can defeat the spread of fungi with the help of fungicides, and in case of bacterial infection, all that remains is to get rid of the plant.
Among insects dangerous for chrysanthemums:
- aphid;
- ticks;
- nematodes.
You can protect yourself from them by treating the Korean chrysanthemum with insecticides.
Before wintering, the flowers are cut almost to the base.
Preparing for winter
In order to winter safely, frost-resistant chrysanthemums in the open field must be prepared
This is especially important for the regions of the north, the Urals and Siberia. It is necessary to start preparing for winter at the end of summer: apply fertilizers with phosphorus or potassium, cut branches to 10 cm
Particular attention should be paid to the inspection of chrysanthemums - next to them there should be no moisture and the possibility of its occurrence, this can provoke rotting of the roots.It is necessary to make a decision about the need to shelter plants in each specific case, this is always done already at sub-zero temperatures.
Good cover - spruce branches, dry leaves, hard iron material. You can not overdo it with shelter - this can provoke damping, the air must get to the plant. Immediately before the shelter of the chrysanthemums, the earth should be spud.
Reproduction
Reproduction of frost-resistant varieties of chrysanthemums occurs by 3 methods - cuttings, seeds, dividing the bush.
- cuttings need to be harvested in the fall, they should spend the winter in a warm room, and in the spring, cuttings 6 cm long should be cut from the side shoots, planted in separate containers, creating greenhouse conditions, after rooting they must be planted in open ground;
- chrysanthemum seeds are planted in early spring in boxes filled with a mixture of peat, humus and garden soil, there must certainly be drainage at the bottom, and on top of dense material that creates greenhouse conditions, plants should be planted after the formation of the first 2 leaves, planting in open ground occurs on the turn of spring and summer;
- when dividing a bush, it is necessary to separate a part of the root system, which has 2-3 shoots, they can be immediately planted separately.
Diseases and pests
Vegetative reproduction of chrysanthemums is associated with a significant accumulation of various diseases in their artificial populations. In this case, the greatest damage is caused by viral diseases that cannot be chemically controlled. The spread of viruses dictates the need to constantly maintain a high level of agricultural background, as well as to conduct active breeding work, which allows a quick change of varieties. This problem can be partially solved by multiplying virus-free material in tissue and plant cell culture in vitro.
Among chrysanthemum diseases, fungal diseases are especially destructive. Of these, the most dangerous are various spots, for example, black spot, white spot (mildew), as well as rust fungi, stem rot, root rot, verticillosis, etc. These diseases are especially pronounced when growing conditions are violated - on heavy soils and with excessive humidification, with high air humidity and poor ventilation, low temperatures, etc. Bacterial diseases also cause significant damage to chrysanthemums, of which the most dangerous are bacterial stem rot caused by the bacterium pseudomonas chicory, bacterial wilting caused by chrysanthemum servin, and bacterial cancer, caused by Agrobacterium tumefaciens. The fight against bacterial diseases presents serious difficulties, since most of the available chemicals have antifungal activity. Usually, recommendations come down to the destruction of the affected plant and tough disinfection of the place where it grew.
Chrysanthemums are often affected by many greenhouse pests. Leaf and root nematodes can pose a serious problem, but subject to the rules of agricultural technology, this problem can be solved. Leaf nematodes usually spread when used on cuttings of infected queen cells, and root nematodes when used with poor soil sterilization. Chemical methods of dealing with them are not very effective. Chrysanthemums are actively attacked by several species of aphids, which are also carriers of viruses. Modern drugs make it easy to control the spread of this pest. Leaf miners pose a serious danger to this culture; it is possible to fight them by intensive treatment with chemicals. Thrips, ticks, and whiteflies are also common attacks on chrysanthemums and can be challenging to control.
Growing chrysanthemums is often associated with physiological problems.Intensive growth under conditions of a limited nutritional space often leads to various deficiencies, which is expressed in oppression of plant growth, damage to leaves and their death, disruption of bud formation and the development of degenerative flowers. Balanced plant nutrition makes it easy to solve these problems.
