Hosta blue ivory boarding and leaving

How to propagate?

Growing an original plant on your own is a simple matter. Propagated by blue hosta seeds, cuttings or dividing the bush.

As for the first method, in this case, careful preparation is required. Seeds of blue hosta do not differ in intensive germination, therefore, before sowing, they are treated with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. The soil is also disinfected. Seeds are sown superficially, lightly sprinkling with substrate. Next, the boxes are covered with a special film and placed in a dark, dry room, away from direct sunlight. The first shoots should appear 12-14 days later. Experts say that using this method of propagation, the gardener runs the risk of losing the varietal qualities of the plant.

In this case, cuttings are more suitable for him. This method is relevant in the summer. Shoots act as cuttings.

Another method of breeding hybrid hosts involves dividing the bush. This procedure is carried out with a 5 year old plant. Suitable periods are April or September. The perennial is dug up, the rhizome is cut. Places of separation are sprinkled with crushed coal. Dry roots are removed, then the plants are planted in a permanent place. Rooting usually occurs after 3 weeks. This procedure must be carried out before the first frost.

The Blue Ivory variety is widely used in landscape design. The original perennial goes well with various garden flowers. The neighborhood with coniferous crops gives the host a special charm. In addition, an amazing plant is planted next to fountains, decorative waterfalls or artificial reservoirs. And also the blue hosta is grown in tubs. With proper care, the plant can live in one place for more than 20 years.

See the next video about the features of the Blue Ivory hosts.

How to propagate?

Growing an original plant on your own is a simple matter. Propagated by blue hosta seeds, cuttings or dividing the bush.

As for the first method, in this case, careful preparation is required. Seeds of blue hosta do not differ in intensive germination, therefore, before sowing, they are treated with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. The soil is also disinfected. Seeds are sown superficially, lightly sprinkling with substrate. Next, the boxes are covered with a special film and placed in a dark, dry room, away from direct sunlight. The first shoots should appear 12-14 days later. Experts say that using this propagation method, the gardener runs the risk of losing the varietal qualities of the plant.

In this case, cuttings are more suitable for him. This method is relevant in the summer. Shoots act as cuttings.

See the next video about the features of the Blue Ivory hosts.

4. Reproduction

There are several methods of reproduction of hosts at once, each one is good in its own way. Most often, plants are propagated by division during transplantation - the bushes quickly adapt to new conditions and start growing.

You can also grow hosta from seeds, but there are a few subtleties. Firstly, during seed propagation, many plants lose varietal characteristics, only species-specific bushes fully retain their attractive appearance. Secondly, seed reproduction is suitable only for patient growers - small plants develop rather slowly. Another disadvantage is the low percentage of seed germination.

The advantage of this method is that a large number of plants can be obtained at once. Seed propagation is often used by breeders when developing new varieties of flowers.

4.1 Growing from seeds

Sowing seeds is carried out in mid-spring, at home, using special seedling boxes with transparent lids or small trays. At the bottom of the containers there should be holes for moisture drainage, and a drainage layer of expanded clay or broken brick should be laid.

The boxes are filled with nutritious soil with a loose texture - a mixture of peat and river sand, taken in equal proportions, is suitable. The soil surface is thoroughly moistened with warm water from a spray bottle and the seeds are sown.

Since the seeds are large enough, it is easy to distribute them evenly and leave a distance of 3-4 cm between them. From above, the planting material is covered with a layer of substrate about 1 cm thick and the soil is re-moistened. To maintain high air humidity, containers are closed with lids or tightened with transparent film.

Seedlings are removed in a warm and well-lit place without direct sun. Every day, the shelter is raised and the crops are aired, gradually increasing the airing time. With the appearance of the first shoots - within 2 - 3 weeks after sowing - the shelter is completely removed.

When each bush can boast 2 - 3 real leaves, a dive is carried out - the plants are transferred to separate pots along with a lump of earth at the root, trying to disturb the root system as little as possible.

A week after the dive, mineral fertilizers with a high nitrogen content can be applied for the first time, but they should be diluted to a very low concentration.

Sowing seeds can also be carried out directly in open ground - at the end of May or the first half of June.

4.2 sharing hosts

The most common way of breeding funky. The division of large adult plants allows you to get a sufficient amount of planting material and is very easy.

The division is carried out in early spring, with the formation of the first, tightly rolled leaves, or after flowering - in late summer or early autumn. Flowering specimens should not be subjected to the procedure - the formation of buds takes a lot of energy from the plants.

The bushes are dug out of the ground and the root system is shaken off the rest of the soil. You can divide the plants by simply pulling the stems in different directions at the base.

You should not divide the bushes into too many divisions - it is worth remembering that each part obtained as a result of division should have its own roots with 2 - 3 buds and several leaf plates, collected in 2 - 4 leaf rosettes. The smaller the division, the longer it will develop and the higher the probability of its death.

The root system should consist of long, elastic roots - rotten or dry areas should be trimmed to healthy tissue with sterile and sharpened pruning shears.

Too weak and small cuttings are usually planted in the garden and covered with cut plastic bottles on top - they create a greenhouse effect and help maintain high humidity. To reduce moisture loss, leaf blades from such plants can be cut to half their length.

4.3 Cuttings

In late spring or early summer, shoots with a heel are separated from adult plants. Rooting is carried out under a cover made of transparent plastic or film. The fact that the plants have started up young roots can be judged by the young leaves that have appeared.

Using hosts in landscaping

Hosts are versatile plants for shady areas. They get along well with most plants and are undemanding to care for. The plant is not picky about the soil and perfectly tolerates the lack of light. Hosta is combined with ferns, aquilegia, lungwort, astilba and other flowers. The composition of this perennial and coniferous plants, as well as group planting next to fountains, artificial waterfalls or around a pond, has a special charm. Thanks to the many varieties, you can use your creativity and combine different plant forms with each other, coming up with unusual combinations. Different varieties of blue host and low green shrubs look good together. Large bushes are often planted on curbs and paths, combining them with tall plants. Beautifully flowering perennials beautifully set off the unusual color of the leaves of the blue hosta. You can grow the hostu as a container plant by moving it around the garden.

Landing features

For planting, you can purchase a cut with open roots or a young plant planted in a container. In the first case, it is better to plant funkia in spring (in April), in the second - throughout the summer

When buying, pay close attention to the quality of the product - there should be no extraneous spots or "mosaics" on the leaves

A lack of light will make the leaves less bright, and direct sunlight can cause burns.

The plant prefers fertile soil, but can grow on any soil with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction. In case of dangerous proximity to groundwater, an embankment must be built and drainage must be laid before planting.

They dig a hole 50-70 cm deep and wide, lay drainage from pebbles or broken bricks. The next steps:

The earth is mixed with compost and the hole is filled by a third, and it is poured with a bucket of water.
A container seedling is transferred along with a lump (a function with an open root system is carefully placed on a hill of soil mixture, and the roots are straightened along the slopes) and watered again.
The remaining substrate is poured and tamped, mulched from above.

Blue Ivory is an unpretentious feature that needs minimal maintenance. She needs the correct watering regime and several dressings per season. The pruning procedure will support the decorative effect of the bush, create prevention of diseases and pests.

Host blue ivory

Watering

Funkia is watered several times a week, focusing on the condition of the soil: it should be moderately moist, but not turn into a "swamp".

Watering is done in the morning, not in the evening, so as not to attract snails and slugs. The stream of water should be directed at the root, trying not to fall on the leaves.

Top dressing

The host needs to be fed 2-3 times a season. Spring and autumn feeding is carried out by mulching - the soil around the bush is covered with compost and watered.

Pruning and preparing for winter

After flowering, dry peduncles are cut off so as not to attract pests and to resume the decorative effect of the bush. The yellowed leaves are cut in autumn or spring.

The first method helps to fight insects and larvae, and the second - to save the plant's strength for successful wintering.

With the onset of cold weather, the bush is mulched with a thick layer of peat or compost and covered with dry foliage.

Growing features

Like many other varieties of paniculate phlox, Blue Paradise is not considered overly demanding in terms of care and growing conditions. However, in order for these flowering perennials to fully develop and bloom colorfully, they need to provide:

the most suitable place on the site;
timely watering;
periodic feeding.

Seat selection

For growing phlox varieties "Blue Paradise", well-lit places with a light sparse shade are suitable. It is not recommended to plant them in very shaded corners of the garden and in areas under the scorching sun. Observations show that strong shade and direct sunlight equally negatively affect flowering quality.

Plants will feel most comfortable in an area with well-drained and moderately moist soil. For their cultivation, loose loams with a high humus content are optimal. Experienced flower growers recommend adding a mixture of leaf humus, peat, ash, sand and compost to the soil before planting phlox. Heavy soils should be diluted with sand before planting, and light soils with clay or peat.

When arranging planting pits, it is important to take into account the diameter of the root system of the seedlings. If phlox is planned to be planted in a group, the pits should be placed at a distance of 50-60 centimeters from each other.

This arrangement of plants will allow for optimal air circulation around the bushes.

Watering

When growing Blue Paradise phloxes, it must be borne in mind that they are a moisture-loving crop. Watering these perennials should be 1 time in 2-3 days (in hot and dry weather, the frequency of watering can be increased). After watering, the soil in the near-trunk circle is mulched, preventing rapid evaporation of moisture.

Top dressing

Gardeners recommend feeding phloxes several times per season. The first feeding is carried out in early spring, when the plants begin to enter the phase of intensive growth. At this stage, complex nitrogen-containing fertilizers are introduced, which contribute to the rapid growth of green mass.

The second time feeding is applied in May-June, when phloxes begin to form buds, preparing for flowering. During this period, they are fed with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers, which activate the budding process and strengthen the root system of plants. The third feeding is carried out in the middle of summer. At this stage, phloxes are fed with potassium-containing fertilizers.

Preparing for winter

When phloxes have completely faded, they are fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers and begin to prepare for wintering. Top dressing at this stage is necessary to restore the resources that the plants used up during the budding and flowering period. After feeding, the bushes are cut off, leaving only small hemp 8-10 centimeters high above the ground. Despite the frost resistance of Blue Paradise phlox, it is recommended to cover the ground around the rest of the bush with humus, and cover the hemp with spruce branches.

Care features

Hosta care will not cause much difficulty even for novice gardeners. Tips for the main steps of caring for this plant will be discussed below.

Watering

The main task of the gardener in the case of hosts is to often water the plant and prevent the soil from completely drying out in the trunk circle. In order for moisture to remain at the roots of the plant for a longer period, a layer of mulch should be organized from peat, bark, straw or needles. In addition, the earth itself must have sufficient water permeability.

Watering the hosts is carried out at least 2-3 times a month in the autumn and spring seasons, and about 1 time in 3 days in the summer or after planting young seedlings in a new place. Depending on the age of the plant, one watering should take from 1 to 3 ten-liter buckets of settled water. Before watering, the soil in the near-trunk circle is loosened. It is advisable to water the hosts in the early morning - until 10-11 hours.

Pruning

Gardeners have mixed opinions on pruning these plants. Some argue that before the onset of cold weather, the entire upper part, both peduncles and leaves, should be cut off almost flush with the ground. According to experts, this prevents fungal infections of the host's root system and does not provoke the appearance of pests.

Other gardeners are convinced that only the peduncles should be cut off for the winter, and the leaves themselves should be left intact. Dead foliage will reliably shelter the rhizome from winter frosts.

Prophylactic pruning of buds and dry leaves of hostas can be done at any time. This procedure also includes examining the plant for rotten rhizomes or pests.

Transfer

Transplanting is a natural and even desirable process when it comes to a garden plant such as hosta. It is usually carried out in the fall in conjunction with the procedure for dividing the bush. During this procedure, the mother bush is dug up, the root system is cleaned and divided with a sharp knife into separate shoots with two rosettes and powerful roots. Planting new bushes should be carried out no later than mid-September, so that they have time to take root before the onset of cold weather. The process of planting such bushes is no different from planting a young hosta bush.

If the landing site is chosen successfully and all conditions are met, this plant can successfully grow in one place for 15-20 years and without transplanting.

Wintering

Preparing the hosta for wintering involves the complete cutting of the peduncles, as well as the leaves of the plant. In addition, all the fallen leaves in the trunk circle are removed, and the earth is loosened. With this procedure, you will destroy the larvae of pests placed in the ground during the wintering period. To preserve the root system of the plant and strengthen the hosta's immunity before winter, a nutrient layer of mulch from peat or not fresh manure should be organized in the near-trunk circle.

Top dressing

For ornamental hosta varieties, top dressing is a mandatory element of care - it affects the brightness of the color of the foliage of the plant, the density of the leaves and the power of the root system. Hosta is excellent for both organic and mineral fertilizers.

Organic matter is supplied to the plant in the form of a layer of mulch from needles, compost, hay, straw, peat, decomposed manure or needles. This not only fertilizes the upper root shoots, but also retains moisture at the surface of the ground. Mulching is carried out 2 times a year - until the active growth of roots and in the summer - until the formation of inflorescences.

Mineral fertilizers can be applied directly to the trunk circle near the hosta bush (in the form of a solution or granules) or mixed with organic fertilizers in a layer of mulch. Such dressings are carried out up to 3-4 times per season, depending on the age and variety of hosts.

Varieties

To date, more than 3000 host varieties are known, but scientists do not stop at this mark, breeding more and more new crops.

The most popular varieties of hybrid hosts can be noted.

"Blue Angel"

It is a cascading hosta, reaching a height of 90 cm with a bush diameter of up to 1.8 m. The leaves are large, bluish, with a bright green edging. Inflorescences are bell-shaped, lilac in color.

"Lady Guenever"

Medium-sized hosta, growing up to 55-65 cm, bush diameter - 80 cm. Leaves are light beige with green edging. Bell-shaped inflorescences, lilac color, can have different shades.

"Stiletto"

A compact bush, growing up to 20-25 cm. The leaves are narrow, elongated, slightly wavy at the edges. The color of the leaf plates is green, with a light border. The flowers are light purple bells.

"Hankey Panky"

Hosta grows up to 40 cm. This is a rather interesting hybrid that has the ability to change the color of its leaves. So, in the spring they are dark green in the center and yellow at the edges. From the second half of summer, the core gradually begins to brighten, and the border, on the contrary, will acquire a rich dark green color.

"White Feather"

Another original chameleon host, its young leaves are colored milky, but as they grow, dark green stripes appear on them, eventually filling the entire leaf plate. Bushes grow up to 50 cm, flowering is white.

"Jurasik park"

Large plant with wrinkled bluish leaves.It reaches 1 m in length, blooms with light purple flowers.

"Lemon Miracle"

One of the new hybrids, the leaves of which are reminiscent of ripe lime in their color. The flowers are lily-like, with a yellowish tint.

Brim Cup

It is a variegated hybrid, its leaves are green with a noticeable light border. The height of the bush does not exceed 30 cm, and the diameter is 40 cm. The flowers are funnel-shaped, pale blue at the beginning of flowering, closer to the end they become milky white.

Fragrant Bouquet

Hosts with green leaves and a pale yellow border. The leaf blades are wavy, large. The inflorescences are white and very fragrant. The height of the bush is 40-45 cm, the diameter is up to 70 cm.

Here is a description of several of these varieties.

The heart-shaped leaves of this hosta have a contrasting color: they are light cream in the center, and dark green at the edges.

Fire and Ice

One of the brightest and most beautiful representatives of the family. This plant is distinguished by snow-white leaves with a thin edging of dark green color.

"Autumn frost"

The unique hosta is bluish in color, the leaves in the shape of a heart have a rather dense texture, the edging is yellowish-orange.

"Sting"

Glossy compacted leaves have a contrasting color: a milky white center with outgoing rays of a bright green color.

"Abikva Drinkin Gourde"

Quite an interesting bluish hosta with wavy leaf edges. The texture of the leaf plates is wrinkled, due to which the leaf plates take the shape of a bowl up to 10 cm deep.

This hybrid has dark green elliptical leaves with a pale green border.

"Cherry berry"

One of the brightest hybrid host - has burgundy cuttings and tricolor leaf plates: the light center is combined with a green border and chartreuse strokes.

Hosta "Gold Standard": description, planting, care and reproduction

Host is called a compact perennial that has a short-branched rhizome. The main feature of the plant is that it grows well in the shade. The decorativeness and diversity of the foliage of culture is able to attract the views of others. Hosta "Gold Standard" is considered a worthy representative of its family.

Description

Hosta Gold Standard Is a decorative representative of the Asparagus family. Today this plant is quite in demand among flower growers. A versatile crop was developed in 1976 in Michigan. Often, the plant is planted around trees, on alpine hills and near water bodies.

The hosta's foliage is ovoid. Its flowering period is July-August. At this time, lilac flowers appear on the peduncles. At the end of the flowering phase, seed pods appear on the Gold Standard.

Later, the leaves turn gold, but with a dark frame. The height of the "Gold Standard" hosts usually reaches 0.7 meters, while the diameter of the bush is 1.2 meters. The culture is winter-hardy, so it does not need shelter for the winter season.

Reproduction

In order to grow a Gold Standard host, you can buy seeds or seedlings in a special store. Also, growers can propagate a hybrid variety in one of the following ways.

Bush division. The best time for this procedure is April and September. Before removing the plant from the soil, you need to water it well. An adult culture must be divided into parts, each of which will have at least 2 outlets.

Cuttings. To carry out reproduction, you need to take a shoot with roots and plant it in the shade. Cover the planting with a plastic glass. After several days, the cuttings of the Gold Standard hosts are transplanted to a permanent place of growth.

Seeds. This type of plant is rarely propagated with seeds due to poor germination. For intensive growth, the seeds must be soaked in a solution with a growth stimulant, and then planted in a small container.The pots should be covered with foil, and the crops should be constantly moistened.

Landing

Any florist wants to be successful in growing hosts. The result depends not only on the correct planting and care, but also on the choice of planting material. Before planting, you need to choose a shaded area where Hosta Gold Standard will grow in the future. It is also worth noting that the place must be well protected from the wind. In this case, the soil should be characterized by nutrition, fertility, air and moisture permeability. Planting seedlings should be done in the first week of September. Stages of landing "Gold Standard":

digging up the beds;
digging shallow holes with a distance of 0.5 meters from each other;
laying out the drainage layer;
fertilization;
spreading the root system of the hosts and planting it;
abundant irrigation;
falling asleep with sawdust.

After competent planting of hybrid hosts, proper care follows, on which the growth and development of culture directly depends. Care for "Gold Standard" includes the following activities.

Irrigation. Water the culture abundantly and often. The best time for this procedure is morning. Gardeners should make sure that no stagnant water occurs.
Fertilizer. Top dressing for this representative of the flora is required only in case of infertility of the soil. Components for replenishment should be applied 3 times per season. In this case, the florist can use both organic matter and a purchased mineral composition.
Loosening of the trunk circle.
Pruning. It is advised to carry out this procedure in the autumn period of the year. Gardeners should trim the stems and leave the leaves behind.
Transplanting. Adult hosts need replanting every year in the fall.

The Gold Standard host is a popular ornamental deciduous plant. According to gardeners' reviews, there are no problems growing this plant. The main condition for the successful growth of culture is its competent planting, as well as compliance with the main care measures.

How to grow a host, see the video.

Features of agricultural technology in the open field

Before landing, the Blue Angel hosts in the open ground are determined with a place, the choice of suitable conditions. For the normal development and reproduction of hosts, adherence to the planting technology, the rules for the implementation of agrotechnical measures is required.

Choosing a landing site

Suitable host soil - slightly acidic, nutritious, drained

An important condition is the permeability and aeration of the earth. Sandy and loamy soils are not suitable

Hosts do not grow in pots at home, as the plant needs a dormant period at low outdoor temperatures to develop, bloom and reproduce.

Illumination requirements

Hosta Blue Angel belongs to shade-loving varieties. When exposed to direct sunlight, the leaf plates lose their distinctive color and merge with neighboring greenery, so an open sunny area is not suitable for the variety. The ideal place is partial shade under the crowns of trees.

Reproduction

There are 3 known methods of reproduction of the Blue Angel - by seeds, cuttings, dividing the bush. The last option is the most effective and does not take much time.

Seed germination is average, but there is no guarantee of preservation of varietal characteristics.

Landing Algorithm:

before sowing, the planting material is kept in a growth stimulator;
the earth is calcined or disinfected with a manganese solution;
a drainage layer is laid on the bottom of the container;
moisturize the nutrient substrate;
seeds are scattered superficially, sprinkled with a thin layer of earth.

Cuttings are carried out during the summer period. A young shoot is separated with a leaf, which is cut off by 1/3. Further, the cutting is planted in partial shade, regularly moistening. To create a greenhouse effect and fast rooting, a plastic bottle with a cut bottom is placed on top.

The bush is divided in late August after bud formation or in early spring.The rhizome is cut with a shovel so that 2 sockets remain in each section. The cut points are treated with crushed activated carbon or wood ash, and immediately planted in a permanent place.

How to plant

Blue angel hosta bushes grow up to 1.2 m wide. Based on this, the distance between plantings is maintained at least 1.5–2 m. When planting plants in autumn, it is taken into account that the culture takes root for 2 weeks in warm weather.

Before the event, the soil is dug onto a shovel bayonet, complex fertilizers are applied. Provide for the width of the planting pit twice the volume of the roots, lay drainage.

When planting, the roots are straightened, covered with earth so that the root collar is located at the same level with the soil surface. The earth is lightly tamped, watered and mulched with sawdust and bark.