What is hoya afraid of: pests and diseases
A plant that is constantly flooded can suffer from root rot or powdery mildew.
The first disease kills the plant, especially since while you see its manifestations (rotting stem, wilted leaves - everything is as in the photo above), the root system may already completely disappear.
Powdery mildew (whitish bloom) can be really combated. First, cut off all infected leaves, spray the bush with a purchased fungicide. Remove the top of the soil, add fresh.
Sometimes the plant is attacked by harmful insects. They can be "picked up" from an open window, from a bouquet brought into the house (even if you have grown the flowers yourself in a flower bed) or from a new flowerpot infected in a store.
Pests can be different:
- Spider mite. It is difficult to see this tiny dark creature, but if there are many ticks, a sticky cobweb appears on the plant. Such bastards are afraid of high humidity (you can even put a container of water near a hanging pot to evaporate) and purchased poisons. Actellik has proven itself well (in our case, it needs to be diluted, giving 15 drops per liter, and sprayed on the plant, and a week later, repeat this procedure, even if you no longer see insects).
- Shields. Brown dots, hard to the touch. Wash the hoya leaves with cotton pads dipped in soapy water. Does not help? We'll have to buy karbofos.
- Mealybug. It is betrayed by the presence of a whitish coating. In this case, you will cope with natural methods - for example, onion or garlic infusion.
Pests will not attack if the hoya is often sprayed, and the air near it does not dry out.
But what if the flower cannot be cured? Or if you bought a goner from a sale to save, but nothing comes of it? The answer is in this video:
Diseases and pests
Improper care weakens the plant and can be attacked by bacterial and fungal infections.
In such cases, treatment with fungicides, such as Bordeaux liquid, helps.
As a preventive measure, it is recommended to shower the leaves and optimize the conditions of detention.
Red spider mites, aphids, scale insects settle on insufficiently well-groomed specimens. As a means of first aid, a soap solution or cotton wool soaked in alcohol is used to remove pests. Only systemic insecticides can completely get rid of them.
To prevent nematode damage, the soil substrate and container must be sterilized before planting. A native of exotic islands, hoya is obovata, does not require too much.
Determine a permanent bright spot for her, provide a cool winter, do not overmoisten, cut off in time - and it will grow quickly, release new shiny round leaves and bloom regularly, exuding one of those unusual aromas that the distant jungle smells like.
Home care
Lighting
Well-lit rooms with south-facing windows are more suitable for this type of khoi, but it still should not be in the sun for a long time: with an excess of "tan", the color of the leaves becomes lighter, drying, brown areas form on them - traces of sunburn.
"Changing places" and, accordingly, changing the nature of lighting is also an undesirable process: when rearranging, the hoya loses flowers and buds, and also sheds leaves.
Temperature
In summer, the optimal temperature range is from 17 to 25 degrees, and in winter, a dormant period at a temperature of 10-15 degrees is useful.
Drafts harm the plant.
Priming
In this case, any soil is suitable - those that are sufficiently fertile, loose, have a neutral or slightly acidic reaction.
Hoya obovata grows well in ordinary garden soil, and in universal soil from a store, and in a mixture of leafy and sod soil with peat, humus and sand, in which all the ingredients are taken in equal proportions.
Landing
The planting capacity should not be too large, with a mandatory drainage hole.
Old pots from under other plants are not suitable for planting hoya; wash the new container thoroughly.
Before planting the plant, a drainage layer (expanded clay, small pebbles, brick or ceramic battle) is placed at the bottom of the container.
Then a small amount of soil is poured, a root system is placed on top of it with, if possible, an earthen lump preserved.
For effective growth and flowering, it is useful to plant several young plants in one pot.
Pour the soil mixture to the desired level, carefully tamping it. Provide support for growing stems
Provide support for growing stems.
Transfer
Young hoyi are transplanted every year, adult specimens are transplanted every 2-3 years or less.
The transplant should, in fact, be a transshipment that preserves the old earthen lump as much as possible, and the new pot is chosen not too spacious.
Soon after purchase, the plant is transplanted, since before selling, for a better presentation, hoyi are usually supported with stimulants. With such a transplant, the substrate is also removed from the root system and in this case the earthen lump is not preserved.
Watering
Between moisture ingress, the earthen lump should dry out; excess, and even more so, stagnation of moisture is unacceptable.
With a cool winter, watering is carried out even less often.
Top dressing
During intensive growth and during the flowering period, hoya of this species, especially young specimens, can occasionally be fed with complexes for flowering succulents or a significantly diluted solution of universal fertilizers.
Pruning
Potentially, such a climbing vine can live for more than a dozen years and quickly grow stems 10 meters long. In indoor culture, its growth must be limited to spring pruning and pinching.
In addition, shortening the shoot actively growing in length stimulates the development of lateral buds and, accordingly, the density of foliage and splendor of flowering.
In practice, after the fourth leaf, the shoot can be cut or pinched.
Peduncles are not removed, as new inflorescences will develop on them over time.
Can hoya be kept at home?
Most often, hoya is grown not in apartments, but in offices and offices, and the reason for this is superstition. It has long been popularly believed that wax ivy survives from the husband's family and drives adult sons out of the house. Other, equally convincing sources claim that hoya relieves resentment and pacifies envy. There are publications that say that hoya is "a plant of family happiness, it is advisable to put it in the bedroom." What to believe? Maybe you should try to grow hoya at home and clarify the extent of its influence on the fate of a person? You decide. I see in the hoya only a cozy plant with beautiful flowers, which is a pleasure to care for.
Hoya: breeding at home
The happy owners of an adult vine have no shortage of planting material. Its crown needs periodic molding, and all formed, but excess shoots can be easily rooted. If there is already a hoya in the house, how to multiply the question is usually not worth it.
Blooming hoya fleshy
How does it multiply
Stem layers and cuttings are the main planting material. Much less often, vines are propagated by seeds, since they are not so easy to obtain. Hoya flowers last up to 2 weeks after blooming on petioles.They are bisexual, but they need the help of pollinators to set seeds, for which they secrete a lot of thick sticky and strong-smelling nectar.
Propagation by cuttings
Young shoots of this year are not suitable for reproduction. Only last year's will do, and they should have at least 2 pairs of leaves. Cut them with a sharp knife between the knots. After that, the cutting is left for 1-2 hours to dry the cut.
For your information! Hoya's nodules contain root hormones, so it is from them that the stalk will expel the roots.
There should certainly be several nodules on the cut off shoot. This increases the chances of successful rooting. However, there are usually no special difficulties with this, the vine is distinguished by exceptional vitality, its breeding is an interesting activity.
Rooting
The most common way to root cut cuttings is in water. To do this, take a container that does not transmit light. It is covered with cardboard or foil. Cuttings are inserted through the cut holes. Leaves are removed from the lower nodule and immersed in water. To speed up the process of root formation, the cut is pre-dipped in a root solution.
Hoya cuttings cut for propagation
It requires warmth and high humidity to grow successfully. The optimum temperature is 22 ° C. If the leaves begin to wither, this indicates dry air. To correct the situation, the container with the handle is covered with a glass cap or a plastic bag to obtain greenhouse conditions.
After 2 weeks, a sufficient number of roots should form to make it possible to transplant the cuttings into the pot. The technique is rather painstaking, so many people prefer to cut more cuttings and just keep them in a warm, not too brightly lit place, regularly adding water.
The second method of rooting is by cuttings in the substrate. The soil is bought with a neutral alkaline reaction. Be sure to cover the top with a cap, which is raised once a day in order to spray the stalk with water. High humidity and sterility of the soil are the main components of success.
Step-by-step instructions to help root the hoya stalk with a guarantee of success:
- Too long shoot is bad, 2-3 pairs of leaves are enough. If possible, it is worth rooting several shoots.
- Small-leaved varieties are planted in pots horizontally or at an angle to cover several nodules with soil at once (up to 10 pcs.). Large-leaved cuttings are sprinkled with earth only for 1 knot.
- The temperature should be maintained at a stable level of 22 ° C.
- We must not forget about daily spraying.
- The chances of success persist as long as the shoot is green and has at least 1 leaf.
Important! Cuttings placed in water should not be touched too often, because young roots are very fragile
Hoya - care and growing from a leaf
If you can't get the cutting, but there is at least 1 leaf, you can try to root it too. This is the most difficult path, but not hopeless. When immersed with a petiole in a nutrient substrate, the survival rate of such material is low, since plants grown at home have too little of their own supply of substances necessary for growth.
Leaf rooting
Rooting a hoya from a leaf is a painstaking task, so it is worth following a few recommendations:
- chemicals are used to stimulate root growth. They are applied in the form of a solution, dropping from a pipette onto a sheet so that the liquid glass along the petiole;
- without petioles, the leaves take root several times worse;
- there is a little secret: a leaf is immersed in the loose earth at an angle of 45 °.
Hoya: species description and flower care - Healthy garden
Many gardeners strive to plant a hoya, an interesting climbing plant. The flower has interesting umbrellas of flowers, which it manages to boast of over a long period of time. But before planting, you need to familiarize yourself with all the features of the plant and the rules for caring for it. Only after that, start planting work.
Description of the hoya plant
Hoya takes its origin from evergreen weaving shrubs and vines. The plant originates from the Kutrov family, from the Lastovnev subgenus. Under natural conditions, the shrub grows on the coasts of Australia, Asia and the tropics of Polynesia.
Decorating an apartment with a hoya
A curly flower in most cases gets along better in open woodland, where it picks up a tree for itself and completely braids its trunk. In their homeland, there are more than 200 species of various shades of this representative of the flora.
In the wild, the vine stretches more than 10 meters in length. Shoots that do not differ in green cover have a purple coating. They are considered young shoots. As they grow older, their color changes to green, they acquire leaf plates and airy rhizomes. At an older age, from a green vine, it becomes lignified.
The foliage is oval in shape. At the first appearance, it gives off smoothness and glossy shine. Over time, its tone changes to matte. The foliage is medium-sized - reaches 8 cm, in breadth does not exceed 5 cm.
Hoya inflorescences are small, reaching 1-2 cm. They are collected in lush umbrellas-inflorescences. The most common are white, pink, crimson. Each of the flowers looks like a small star with a core different from the general structure and color.
The plant gives off a very aromatic and persistent odor. It is especially noticeable at night.
A large number of different types differ into 3 types:
- Erect;
- Hanging or hanging;
- Weaving, entwining the support.
In addition, the following are the most common hoya varieties among flower growers:
- Waxy or fleshy - requires support, stretches up to 6 m. Flowers are very fragrant, white or pink. The leaf plate is large, oval, wax-coated (Tricolor, Compact and Variegated);
- Beautiful - with indescribable perfect flowers. Grows as an ampelous shrub;
- Multi-flowered - the foliage is oblong and linear, twisted around the support. Flowers of yellow shape with arcuate spurs prevail;
- Majestic - leathery, oblong, oval-shaped foliage, up to 20 cm in length, slightly pubescent. Inflorescences are collected in bunches of 5-10 pieces, emit a wonderful aroma.
Thus, with its splendor, the hoya overshadows even the most sophisticated representatives of the flora. But the domesticated culture cannot boast of an abundance of flowers and the splendor of a bush. For cultivation, certain conditions for caring for the bush are required.
Plant care
- In order for the hoya to develop qualitatively, to please with its appearance, great efforts and constant control are required.
- The following rules should be followed for a comfortable stay of a capricious beauty:
- Lat. Hoya
Lighting - lighting should be adjusted for each type of hoya.
One variety likes the sun's rays to fall on it only in the morning, the other prefers the evening soft effect of the luminary. Therefore, until the necessary lighting is found, you can repeatedly burn tender young leaves.
It is important that the midday bright rays do not affect the plant, there is a possibility of getting burns;
Temperature - in summer, air degrees up to + 260C are suitable for the bush. In the winter months, for beneficial development, it is not recommended to lower the temperature to + 150C. In this case, the hoya will bloom constantly, periodically replacing one panicle with another fresh umbrella-inflorescence. The main thing is not to lower the degrees in the room to + 100C. This will stop all development of the flower;
Watering is the main factor in the growth of hoya. It should be done in moderation, but so that the soil never dries out or gets significantly wetted. If water passes through the soil and excess water accumulates in the pan, it is recommended to pour it out. It can provoke root rot or the attachment of the fungus to the substrate;
Soil - The first planting should be done in specially selected and specially prepared soil.
To do this, it is necessary to take peat, fresh humus and river sand of medium size in 2 equal parts, as well as sod soil in the amount of 3 parts. After mixing the composition, the soil should be loose.
For this, additional application of charcoal and small pieces of tree bark is suitable.
Hoya linearis (Hoya linearis) - description, cultivation, photo
Hoya linearis (Hoya linear)
Hoya linearis is a very rare, almost epiphytic species that came to us from the highlands of the Himalayas.
Linear light green foliage, almost white on young shoots. Very long lashes (up to 6 m) are covered with narrow, 0.5 cm wide lanceolate leaves of about 5 cm. The leaves are slightly pubescent.
As a true mountain woman, this Hoya prefers coolness, partial shade and high humidity. If the air is too dry and hot, its leaves curl into tubes.
This species needs abundant watering. The soil must be constantly moist.
This species is very unpretentious in care and even for small efforts the plant will thank with the most abundant flowering.
Hoya Linearis in a hanging planter will become an exotic highlight of the collection. Undemanding lighting allows you to place it away from the window. Long stems will help create a living flowering wall, which can be an interesting decorating find, and just very beautiful.
In very dark rooms, the plant can be supplemented with illumination. It responds well to artificial lighting.
Many small umbellate inflorescences of snow-white flowers on low pedicels can cover Hoya almost completely. Inflorescences consist of 12-15 flowers and bloom at the ends of the shoots. Therefore, after flowering, it is worth pruning them slightly to stimulate more branching and book new inflorescences.
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Description
Hoya, or wax ivy, is an evergreen plant. In rare cases, it looks like a bush, more often it stretches like a liana. In their natural environment, hoya grows on trees, some species - on sheer cliffs. She uses her adventitious roots to catch on the surface. Larger species reach a height of 18 meters.
The plant has succulent leaves of a simple shape, located opposite each other along the stem. The foliage may differ depending on the variety. Their surface is:
- smooth;
- felt;
- hairy.
Flowers appear in umbellate clusters at the tip of peduncles (spurs), sometimes singly. In most species, these spurs are perennial and rarely fall off. Each flowering cycle increases the length of the peduncle. In larger species, over time, it can reach 27 cm. Flowers vary in size and are from 3 to 95 mm in diameter.
All flowers are shaped like pointed stars. In some species, the petals are round or spherical. It is known that in the inflorescence of Coriacea there are up to 70 inflorescences, each up to 2 cm in diameter. The monochromatic Hoya pauciflora compensates for the scarcity of flowers in size. They appear at any time of the year. The surface of the petals can be smooth and shiny, sometimes matte and silky. There are varieties in which the flowers are covered with large nap. As for the color palette, it is very diverse.
The flower shape is usually star-shaped, with five thick, waxy triangular petals topped with another star-like structure, the crown. The color of the buds can be white, pink, yellow or orange. You can find plants with dark red, almost black flowers or even green. Many smell sweet, and most even produce nectar.
The main flower pollinators in the natural environment are moths, flies and ants.
The seeds are packed in double pods. The follicles are usually light, scattered by the wind with a small tuft of silky fluff. Germination is fast, but their viability is short-lived.
One species, Hoya linearis, has leaves that resemble string beans hanging in bunches from stems. The flower is covered with fine fluffy hairs and hangs from trees in its native habitat. Some varieties have lighter or darker veins on the foliage compared to the rest. There are species with thin and translucent foliage, while others have thick and succulent foliage.
Diseases and pests
Hoya bella practically does not get sick, in some cases the flower may be affected by powdery mildew or root rot due to excessive moisture. Powdery mildew treatment consists of the following procedures:
- removal of leaf plates and shoots damaged by whitish bloom;
- replacement of the soil surface;
- plant treatment with fungicides.
Root rot, as a rule, is incurable, since the roots of the hoya are weak and die quickly. To avoid such a situation, it is necessary to carefully treat watering and avoid waterlogging of the soil. If you do not follow the necessary rules for caring for the plant, you can provoke the following problems:
- spots on leaf plates can indicate both sunburn and lack of lighting, you need to change the location of the flower;
- foliage falls off - excessive moisture, too cold water for irrigation, or frequent changes in the location of the flower;
- falling flowers can happen from drafts, improper room temperature, plant movement;
- lack of flowering comes from poor lighting or abundant moisture in the winter;
- poor growth, nondescript leaves indicate a lack of nutrients in the soil.
The plant can be damaged by pests: spider mites, mealybugs and scale insects. With dry air indoors, small red dots or spider threads appear on the back of the leaves - this is how the spider mite manifests itself. Small growths on the leaf blades indicate the appearance of a scale insect, and whitish glomeruli indicate traces of a mealybug.
In order to combat, the plant is washed with soapy water and treated with insecticidal preparations, for example, Aktellik or karbofos.
How to properly care for a plant, see below.
Landing
Hoya is usually grown in a hanging basket. It is not in vain that she earned herself a place of favorite among houseplants. This flower has an attractive, fleshy and shiny foliage. It blooms even with minimal maintenance in suitable conditions. Depending on the variety, the flowers can be tiny or up to a few centimeters in diameter.
The plant should be planted in well-drained soil. You can find it in any specialty store, or you can make it yourself. The ideal proportion is a mixture of peat, deciduous soil and perlite in equal parts. Before use, the soil is advised to be disinfected, for this it is placed in an oven preheated to 80 degrees and kept there for about an hour. The temperature will no longer be of any benefit, this is a misconception of novice gardeners. If you add at least a degree, then the soil will lose all its beneficial properties.
The planting process is very simple.
- Prepare the soil and container. The pot can be made of any material, as long as there are drainage holes in the bottom. It must be remembered that earthenware containers over time saline the soil, although such dishes are more porous and the soil dries out better in it.
- The stalk or young plant is placed inside the pot, in which the drainage and the first layer of the potting mix have already been laid. It must be positioned so that the root collar is at ground level and a centimeter below the edges of the pot.
- Having placed the plant in the center, it is covered with the rest of the soil and lightly pressed down on the ground, removing air pockets.
- The plant will need to be watered well and allowed to drain for an hour.
Hoya must be fertilized regularly. To do this, use balanced mixtures for indoor plants. Additional application of vitamins and minerals can induce hoya to bloom.
It is very important to give the plant in the required amount of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, no top dressing is applied immediately after planting. This is very important, since the flower after transplanting is under stress, its root system is poorly developed at this stage, and if you start to give fertilizers, the growth of the stem and green mass will increase, and the roots will remain at the same level.
The best time to plant is late autumn or winter when the flower is dormant. During this period, it tolerates stress better and with the onset of a new vegetative period begins to quickly assimilate in a container.
