Hydrangea chlorosis treatment: description, causes of the disease, methods of processing the plant

How to dilute ferrous sulfate (ferrous sulfate) for grapes?

To get a rich harvest on your personal plot, it is important to carry out all the required plant care measures. This is especially true for delicate crops susceptible to the action of various factors, for example: grapes

Iron vitriol has proven itself well in this respect.

Iron vitriol is both fertilizer, and protection, and prevention of diseases.

Short reference

Ferrous sulfate or in another way iron (II) sulfate is a chemical compound that is described by the formula - FeSO4 x n H2O. The crystals are bluish green in color. Under the influence of oxygen in the air as a result of oxidation, it changes to yellow.

The substance is highly soluble in water, which makes it easy to prepare a solution of the required concentration.

Positive aspects of application

Ferrous sulfate has a versatile effect, which is why it is so often used by gardeners. And also this tool has a low cost compared to industrial formulations. Pros of ferrous sulfate:

Fertilizer. Plants receive the necessary amount of iron in a convenient form.
Fungicide. He is able to cope with fungal infections of various forms.
Destruction and repelling of harmful insects.
Used to treat slices.
A solution of ferrous sulfate has a green color, during storage it turns yellow and loses its properties

Application for vineyards

In this case, it is advised to carry out processing in 2 stages. Spraying is performed in spring and autumn. The procedures have some differences, so it is more convenient to study them separately.

Treatment with vitriol -prophylaxis of oidium

Frost protection

The grape is a thermophilic crop. It reacts sharply to sudden changes in temperature. Spring weather is changeable, after really warm days, frosts come, which can severely damage the plants. If the vine freezes, then in the best scenario, the harvest will be small, and in the worst case, the bush will die.

Autumn processing with iron vitriol - protection against frost

Spraying is performed until the buds appear. As a result of contact with the solution on the vine, a surface film is formed.

Its goal is to delay the growth of the kidneys for 2 weeks in order to wait out possible temperature fluctuations. Use a solution of 0.5% concentration of ferrous sulfate. To do this, dilute 50 g in 10 liters of water.

Actions in the fall

The grapes are processed after the vine has lost all its leaves. This usually occurs in late October or early November.

Treatment before shelter protection against mold and rot

The prepared composition is applied to the plant. A protective layer forms on the surface, which squeezes the bark slightly after drying.

This technique does not give a chance for the development of molds and similar harmful microorganisms. The solution is prepared at the rate of 3% for young bushes and more concentrated - 5% for mature plants.

In the first case, you will need 300 g of ferrous sulfate per 10 liters of water, and in the second - half a kilogram.

Vitriol treatment in spring - disease prevention

Protective measures

When processing grapes, it is worth taking care of personal protective equipment. You will need gloves, goggles, a respirator and suitable clothing. Yet ferrous sulfate is a chemical and it is better to play it safe and protect the skin, eyes and respiratory tract from its action. To prepare the product, use plastic or glass dishes.

Spraying protective measures are mandatory

Processing is best done in dry, calm weather.It will be useful to know the long-term prognosis, since the drug is easily soluble in water.

Other uses

For grapes, iron sulfate solutions of different concentrations are used, depending on the goal:

Destruction of harmful microorganisms - 4% solution (400 g per 10 l).
The fight against mosses and lichens will be successful when using 3% of the composition (300 g per 10 l).

Iron vitriol destroys mosses and lichens

Foliar dressing is done with a weak solution of 0.1–0.2% (10–20 g per 10 l).
Chlorosis treatment will require further dilution to 0.05% (5 g per 10 L).
For introduction into the ground, you need 100 g of iron salt per 1 m2. This is done while digging the soil in spring and autumn.

Experienced gardeners have been using iron vitriol for a long time and are satisfied with its effect. Therefore, those who are not yet fully confident in their knowledge should heed the advice and add this tool to their arsenal.

Chlorosis of flowers

Chlorosis of hydrangeas

Garden hydrangeas are most often affected by chlorosis due to insufficient iron in the soil. If the gardener does nothing to cure the bush, then his metabolism will be disturbed, which will lead to its weakening, the foliage will turn yellow and fade, and the veins will remain green. Chlorosis, like other diseases, is much easier to prevent using preventive measures than then to cure the plant affected by it. If symptoms of such a disease appear on the flower, then its foliage is sprayed with Iron Chelate as soon as possible or with such a remedy as: Agrecol, Micro Fe, Brexil, Ferovit or Ferrylene. In the event that the bush is very badly affected, then the products containing iron are introduced into the soil directly under the root. The following method is quite effective in the treatment of hydrangea chlorosis: the soil around the bush is spilled 2 or 3 times with a solution of potassium nitrate or ferrous sulfate (40 grams of any of the substances are taken for 1 liter of water).

Chlorosis of hydrangea leaves. How to help her.

Chlorosis of petunias

You can understand that petunia is sick with chlorosis by the following signs: yellowing of the foliage, while the veins remain green, the edge of the leaves curls and they fly around, and new leaf plates become smaller, and the flowers are deformed. The dying off of the root system and drying of the upper parts of the shoots are also observed. As soon as the first signs of chlorosis are found, a little citric acid is poured into the water for irrigation (½ tsp is poured into 1 liter of water). However, if there are no noticeable improvements, then iron sulfate is also poured into the citric acid solution (for 1 liter of solution ½ tsp). In this way, the soil is shed around the bush regularly until young healthy leaves begin to appear on the bushes. In order for the bush to recover faster, all the buds should be plucked from it, before they open. You can replace ferrous sulfate with other means that include iron. Some gardeners also advise using foliar dressing with micronutrient solutions. However, such a flower does not tolerate even raindrops very well, so such treatments can harm it. Petunias affected by viral chlorosis must be dug up and destroyed.

Roses

You can understand that a rose is affected by chlorosis by the even yellowing of the leaf plates and rich green veins on them. The reason for this may be a lack of iron in the soil, and these changes can also be observed if last season the bush was overfed with chemical fertilizers. Gardeners have noticed that out of two bushes growing side by side, one may feel iron deficiency, while the other looks quite healthy and grows normally.

Chlorosis treatment should be started in early spring before the growing season begins. To do this, humus or mullein and a deficient element should be added to the soil under the plants.Further, nitrogen-containing fertilizers are not used to feed diseased bushes, while watering should be poor, and also feed the roses in the foliage with a solution of complex fertilizer on a cloudy day until the bushes become completely healthy. During this period, you can not carry out strong anti-aging pruning of the plant.

Chlorosis treatment and prevention

Proper care is considered to be the best prevention of chlorosis. Yes, adherence to agricultural technology helps to exclude the very possibility of chlorosis. But let's not sprinkle ashes on our heads if chlorosis nevertheless happened on our perfectly manicured plants. It happens to everyone!

Iron chlorosis of the apple tree: the leaves turned yellow, but the veins remained green. Photo: Mosaic Crop Nutrition

If chlorosis of an infectious nature has become the cause of plant malaise, then you should work on hygiene in the garden: disinfect the cutting tool when working alternately with sick and healthy plants, disinfect the soil after plants that have suffered from viral or fungal diseases, destroy pests, etc.

You need to start with the correct disinfection of the soil before planting. You can disinfect the soil by any method: heating, fungicides, planting green manure. Next, you need to disinfect seeds and seedlings. And then, as they grow, feed the plants with complex mineral fertilizers, which contain not only macro-, but also microelements.

Iron chlorosis treatment

It is customary to treat iron chlorosis with foliar feeding (irrigation of leaves) with preparations containing iron, or rather its available form - iron chelate: Micro-Fe, Mikom-Reakom Iron Chelate, Ferrovit, Ferrilene.

"Iron" top dressing can be prepared from iron vitriol and citric acid - it will be faster and cheaper. Dissolve iron vitriol (4 grams, 1 tsp) in a liter of soft water (after the filter) and add half a teaspoon of citric acid, mix well until completely dissolved and immediately start irrigating plants with chlorosis. If the iron chelate (the solution is similar in color to urine) remains after feeding, it can be stored in the refrigerator for 2 weeks.

Iron chelate can be prepared from ferrous sulfate and citric acid.

There are recommendations for burying iron objects in the soil, near the roots of fruit and berry plants, but the effectiveness of this method is questionable, due to the delayed effect. When chlorosis is present, it is useless to bury nails.

Magnesium chlorosis treatment

Chlorosis caused by a lack of magnesium should be treated with emergency foliar dressing (irrigation) with solutions of potassium magnesium, dolomite flour, magnesium sulfate. Preparations must be diluted according to the instructions on the label. If there is no potassium magnesium at hand, but there is wood ash, it will do too, provided that the soil on the site is not acidic.

Sulfur chlorosis treatment

With an obvious lack of sulfur, it is necessary to use mineral fertilizers containing a large amount of sulfur to combat chlorosis: potassium sulfate, potassium magnesium, diammophos, etc., any branded top dressing in which a high sulfur content is declared is suitable.

Treatment of nitrogen chlorosis

Nitrogen chlorosis should be treated with nitrogen fertilizers: urea, ammonium nitrate, sodium nitrate, ammonium sulfate. Calcium and sodium nitrate do not acidify the soil, therefore they can be used to treat chlorosis in vegetable crops. Carbamide (urea) strongly acidifies the soil, and when irrigated on the leaves, it can cause burns, if the requirements for the preparation of the working solution are not followed.

Attention: nitrogen fertilization slows down the growth of buds and impairs the formation of ovaries. Therefore, during flowering, you should not get carried away with nitrates.

Zinc Chlorosis Treatment

Chlorosis caused by a lack of zinc should be treated by irrigating plants with solutions of zinc-containing preparations: zinc sulfate, zinc superphosphate, zinc oxide, etc.

Chlorosis of garden crops

Chlorosis of tomatoes

An excessively slow development and growth of a tomato, as well as curling, yellowing and flying of foliage can be symptoms of an acute lack of moisture, but signs of non-infectious chlorosis also look. You can understand exactly which element tomatoes need by the following signs:

Lack of nitrogen - the bushes grow slowly, there is a rapid lignification of the stems, and the old leaf plates first become faded, and then turn yellow. As for the fruits, they grow small, but ripen very quickly.
Lack of phosphorus - the growth of the bush slows down and the main shoot becomes thinner, the foliage becomes smaller and acquires a characteristic purple hue, its edge becomes curved. Then leaf necrosis develops, and they begin to fly around.
Potassium deficiency - in old leaf plates, the edge looks like a burnt, later yellowing of the foliage and its flying around is observed. After that, young foliage also becomes ill with chlorosis. On the inside of the fruit, you can find black-brown stripes.
Lack of calcium - at first, the upper leaf plates suffer: they turn yellow, deformation of young foliage also occurs, point necrotic areas form on it, eventually merging with each other. Further, the fruit is damaged by apical rot.
Lack of copper in the soil - This is usually the case when tomatoes grow on peaty soil. Gradually, the old foliage turns white, and the young leaf plates become smaller, the stems weaken, the underdeveloped flowers fly around.
Lack of boron - because of this, growth points can begin to die off and a lot of lateral shoots can form, which makes the plant abnormally bushy. Dry areas form on the surface of the fruit.
Magnesium deficiency. Greenish-yellow spots form on the surface of old foliage, which eventually turn gray and then brown. Drying and flying of foliage is observed, the fruits grow small and ripen very quickly.

In the fight against chlorosis, first you need to determine what kind of elements the tomatoes need, and add it to the soil or spray the tomatoes over the foliage with a nutrient solution that contains this element. However, if the plant is infected with viral chlorosis, then dig it up and destroy it as soon as possible, and the soil in which it grew must be spilled with a solution of potassium permanganate or a fungicidal preparation.

Chlorosis of cucumbers

Due to chlorosis in the leaf plates of cucumbers, the edge and veins turn yellow, and this is not a direct sign of iron deficiency in the soil. It is very difficult for a layman to understand the cause of the development of the disease, it is also difficult to fight it, and on this you can spend too much time and be left without a crop at all. In this regard, it is much easier and easier to prevent the development of the disease. To do this, half a month before planting seedlings or sowing seeds, plant humus is introduced into the ground, the fact is that:

the composition of such humus contains nutrients necessary for the normal growth and development of cucumbers;
humus will be able to convert those elements that the plant needs into a soluble form;
in comparison with mineral fertilizer, humus does not contain substances that can harm plants.

Apply a large amount of compost to a depth of 50–70 mm, after which the soil is spilled and left for several days. Only then can you start planting seedlings or sowing seeds.

Why do cucumber leaves turn yellow? Fertilizers against chlorosis

Why do hydrangea leaves dry and fall? Other hydrangea diseases

Beginners in floriculture can observe how hydrangea leaves fall off, hydrangea leaves turn yellow and a number of other hydrangea diseases. Signs, description of hydrangea diseases with photos, effective treatment from specialists.

Hydrangea leaves dry.This is often a reaction to dry roots. Hydrangea is a moisture-loving flower, and therefore timely watering is very important for it. Lack of moisture leads to the fact that the leaves of the hydrangea begin to dry. The situation is aggravated if the plant is in direct sunlight. Measures to prevent the problem: shade the hydrangea, but do not deprive it of bright sunlight, carry out timely watering, spraying helped. Even if the leaves dry on the hydrangea, it will regain its decorative effect in the next growing season.

The leaves of the room hydrangea dry out due to inaccurate transplantation, as a result of which the root system was disrupted

It is important not to damage the small roots during transplantation, which are the main ones in the process of feeding and water absorption. You need to replant young cuttings in the spring. Young cuttings are dug out without violating the integrity of the earthen coma around the roots

The soil for planting is chosen slightly acidic. When transplanting, you can deepen the neck of the flower by 2-3 cm, but not deeper. Watering is plentiful, feeding should be carried out only after the cutting starts to grow. If, after transplanting, the leaves of the hydrangea dry, use the preparation Cicron when watering. This will help the flower to cope with the problem.

Young cuttings are dug out without violating the integrity of the earthen coma around the roots. The soil for planting is chosen slightly acidic. When transplanting, you can deepen the neck of the flower by 2-3 cm, but not deeper. Watering is plentiful, feeding should be carried out only after the cutting starts to grow. If, after transplanting, the leaves of the hydrangea dry, use the preparation Cicron when watering. This will help the flower to cope with the problem.

Hydrangea leaves can dry out due to waterlogging of the soil. As an additional sign, hydrangea leaves are covered with dark spots with a yellow halo. Waterlogging of the soil does not immediately affect the appearance of hydrangea leaves. The roots are the first to suffer. They start to rot. As a result, the plant stops feeding and absorbing water. To determine whether the roots of the hydrangea are rotten, they carefully remove it from the pot, without violating the integrity of the earthen coma. Healthy roots will look white and firm. The rotten ones are brown. If the roots of the hydrangea are damaged, they are cut to living tissue. Sprinkle the places of the cuts with crushed, activated carbon. The plant is transplanted into a special soil suitable for this type of indoor flowers. In this case, a pot is chosen that is smaller than the volume of the previous one. To reduce the percentage of moisture evaporated from hydrangea leaves, it is placed in a polyethylene greenhouse, but the plant is not wrapped tightly in polyethylene, leaving a small gap for ventilation. Watering is carried out in moderation. For the rapid rooting of the flower, use the drug Cicron.

Hydrangea leaves turn yellow. At the same time, green streaks remain on the leaves of the hydrangea. Cause of the disease: chlorosis. Hydrangea chlorosis can occur if the flower is watered with hard, lime-rich tap water. The latter accumulates in the soil and leads to its alkalization. As a result, hydrangea leaves turn yellow, the plant stops feeding and dies. Control measures: transplant the hydrangea into fresh soil, irrigate with soft water. As an option: add potassium nitrate to the water for irrigation every 3 days with the calculation of 40 g of substance per 10 liters of water.

Hydrangea leaves turn yellow due to a lack of trace elements in the soil. A similar phenomenon is often observed during the period of intense flower growth (spring). Hydrangea leaves discolor and turn yellow if there is not enough nitrogen and iron in the soil. The color of the leaves can be affected by the pH of the soil. For a hydrangea, it should lie in the range of 4.0-6.5. To save the plant, foliar feeding is carried out with microelements or iron chelate.If hydrangea leaves turn yellow for another reason, foliar feeding will have a short-term effect.

Have hydrangea leaves turn black... First, brown spots appear along the edges of the hydrangea leaves, which then turn black. A similar state of affairs can be caused by a high temperature in the room where the hydrangea grows, and low air humidity. In this case, frequent spraying of the flower is carried out. Hydrangea leaves can turn black from direct sunlight. It's about sunburn. Hydrangeas need bright, sunlight, but direct rays for its leaves are destructive. The plant must be shaded.

How to treat hydrangea leaf chlorosis

If chlorosis of hydrangea leaves has begun, treatment should be effective and gradual. Much depends on the method and the chosen means. Folk methods and "drugs" do not always win in the fight against the disease. But special drugs can definitely help and will do it quickly.

Unconventional method - rusty nails for chlorosis

Some gardeners like to use unconventional methods to treat many of their favorites. There is also an unusual treatment option for hydrangea chlorosis, which involves the use of rusty nails.

Preparing a hole around the bush

How to cure a disease using rusty nails:

Make a groove around the bush at a distance of 5-8 cm. The depth of the hole should be between 5 and 10 cm.
Pre-select a lot of rusty nails of any size, size and degree of corrosion.
Place metal elements in the groove and dig in with earth.

Another recipe involves soaking rusty nails in a bucket of water for several days. This water is then used to water the bushes. It is not recommended to use a special infusion more than 1 time a week.

When watering, the rust will become limp and fall into the soil, enriching it with iron. But this option is ineffective, since rust releases little iron, and the plant will not be able to assimilate such a variant of the element.

Chlorosis treatment with iron preparations

To accurately cure the plant, you need to use special preparations that contain iron. There are many options for medicinal compositions that are suitable specifically for hydrangeas. Hydrangea chlorosis treatment involves the same as described in the instructions attached to the special preparation.

Option of a substance for feeding and treatment

Some drug options:

Iron chelate (Mikom-reaction);
Antichlorosis (Master Color);
Brexil-Fe (Valagro);
Micro-Fe (Orton).

Important! In some cases, the substance is diluted in water and the specimen is poured with such a solution. Sometimes only the aerial part is sprayed.

In especially neglected situations, it is necessary to use both watering and spraying.

Types and signs of chlorosis

If the leaves of the plant begin to turn white or yellow, then this should alert the gardener. Because, this clearly indicates the occurrence of chlorosis. Also, the symptoms of chlorosis are reflected in the following changes in the state of the plant:

flowers and buds fall off;
the leaves of the plant curl;
drying out of the upper part of the plant;
young leaves grow weakened;
reducing the size of the sheets;
suspension of growth;
dying off of rhizomes, etc.

Usually, by the signs of chlorosis, it is possible to determine the type of disease. For example, when iron chlorosis occurs, the leaf veins remain green, but the leaf blade turns yellow or whitens.

With sulfuric chlorosis, the veins of the upper leaves turn yellow, the signs are especially noticeable on young leaves. And consistently yellowness covers the leaf plate.

But, the veins of these sheets remain green. The disease affects older sheets more. Also, depending on the type of plant, the leaf plate may acquire a reddish or orange tone.

Nitrogen chlorosis usually results in yellowing of the lower leaves of the plant.Old leaves are affected, the veins also turn yellow at the beginning, and then the entire leaf plate loses its green color.

Signs of zinc chlorosis are reflected in the yellowing of older leaves in the lower tier. At the same time, the veins retain their bright green hue. In addition, the appearance of yellow or red spots on the leaves is observed.

Chlorosis of flowers

Hydrangea chlorosis

Hydrangeas are also among the garden plants that are prone to developing the disease. Usually garden flower species suffer from chlorosis caused by a lack of iron in the soil. Lack of appropriate treatment will lead to metabolic disorders of the bushes, due to which the planting will significantly weaken. Foliage with such a disease acquires a pale yellow color, although its veins remain green.

The easiest way is to prevent the development of such chlorosis or try to cure it in the early stages of the disease. After the onset of symptoms, hydrangea leaves should be sprayed with iron chelate or any preparation containing this substance.

In case of significant lesions, it is necessary to introduce iron-containing compounds under the roots of the plantings. For example, you can spill soil a couple of times next to the plantings with a solution of ferrous sulfate or potassium nitrate. For 1 liter of water, 40 g of any of the products will be required.

Chlorosis of petunia

Chlorosis on petunia manifests itself as follows: the surface of the leaf begins to turn yellow with green veins, the edges of the foliage curl, and then the leaves fly around. Young leaves develop too small, while flowers are deformed. The tops of the shoots may begin to dry out. In this case, the roots of the bushes also suffer.

Noticing such manifestations, when watering, add a pinch of citric acid to the water (0.5 tsp per liter of water). If the method does not bring visible improvements, in addition to this, the same amount of ferrous sulfate is added to the water, thereby obtaining a homemade iron chelate solution. This treatment continues until normal leaves begin to appear on the bushes. To improve the process, you can cut off the unopened buds of the petunia. This will help the plant to channel all its energy into the recovery process. Instead of ferrous sulfate, other iron-containing compounds are sometimes used.

Foliar feeding of petunias is not considered effective: the pubescent leaves of the plant, not to mention its flowers, do not always tolerate even rain well.

Bushes affected by the viral type of the disease will have to be destroyed.

Roses

In rose bushes with chlorosis, the leaves begin to turn yellow evenly while maintaining the green veins. The most common cause of problems is iron deficiency. Often, signs of the disease can appear on only one plant of the roses growing nearby, and not all. In addition, chlorosis can also cause an overabundance of chemical. fertilizer applied in the previous year.

Treatment should be started at the very beginning of spring, before the growing season. Mullein or humus and a preparation or composition containing the missing substances are introduced into the soil. Diseased roses cannot be fertilized with nitrogen, but they should be watered little by little. Until the bushes are fully restored, foliar fertilizing with complex compositions can be carried out, choosing cloudy days for this. Such procedures are carried out until the plantings are completely recovered. It is not recommended to carry out deep anti-aging pruning during this period - it will only further weaken the plants.

Signs and causes of chlorosis

Among the main symptoms of chlorosis in plants:

Premature yellowing of young leaves. At the same time, their veins retain their green color.
Fresh leaves become smaller.
The leaves begin to curl at the edges.
Leaf blades and flowers fall off.
Deformation of buds or flowers occurs.
The upper parts of the stems dry out.
The health of the root system deteriorates, in the worst case, the plant may even die.

Chlorosis of plants

The disease is divided into several types:

Infectious chlorosis.Its cause lies in the effects of viruses, bacteria or fungi. As a rule, such a disease is carried by harmful insects. Harmful microorganisms can independently enter the tissues of weak plants. Usually, such chlorosis is considered incurable, it can only be prevented in a timely manner. The stronger the immunity of the plantings and their resistance to disease, the less chance they will suffer from such a disease.
Non-infectious chlorosis. Such a disease is caused by non-compliance with the rules for growing plants. This chlorosis is also called functional or organic. One of the most common reasons for its development is considered to be an unfavorable climate or improperly selected soil, characterized by a lack of nutrients. If the substrate contains too little sulfur, nitrogen, magnesium, iron, zinc, lime or proteins necessary for the plant, or its acidity does not meet the requirements of the plant, the roots of the bush will not be able to assimilate nutrients from the ground. Insufficient drainage, as well as root trauma or frequent stagnation of moisture can be considered as other reasons for such chlorosis. Close planting or excess of sulfur dioxide can also aggravate the situation. Sometimes chlorosis appears due to non-observance of the correct crop rotation of plantings. The disease can develop especially quickly on plant species that are not resistant to it. The organic type of chlorosis can be cured, but the sooner action is taken, the easier it will be to deal with it and pinpoint the cause of the lesion.
Mutational. In this case, chlorosis is a gene mutation and can be inherited. Due to the fact that such changes affect the color of the foliage of plants, this feature is often used in breeding when breeding variegated varieties and forms.

Prophylaxis

In order to prevent plant diseases, certain measures should be taken. This applies to the correct preparation of the planting, optimal timely care of the crop.

In order to take the necessary measures, it is important to know the types of chlorosis. This disease is:

non-infectious, associated with a lack of microelements of a certain type. If it is not possible to determine which element of the culture is not enough, complex ready-made fertilizers with a balanced combination of microelements should be used. These drugs include "Zdraven", "Uniflor Micro", "Florist Micro".
infectious

In this case, special attention should be paid to disinfection. This applies to seeds, soil, tools

Before planting a crop in the soil, it is advisable to add biofungicides as a preventive measure. They are also treated with planting material to increase stability.

Gardening tools should be rinsed with boiling water and wiped off with a cloth dampened with alcohol.

To reduce the risk of chlorosis, you must:

choose the right substrate for plants. The soil must be water-permeable and light

;
monitor the soil, pay attention to the acidity of the soil. Strongly increases the risk of chlorosis, a shift towards an alkaline environment

Do not allow alkalization;
water the plants periodically with acidified water. For this, several grains of citric acid are dissolved in 1 liter of water.

Hydrangea prophylaxis

Since diseases develop under certain weather conditions, when grown in the unstable climate of the Moscow region, the risk of infection with them is quite high. Therefore, preventive plant protection measures are urgently needed:

in autumn and early spring, the bushes are treated with Bordeaux liquid;
planting material is subject to processing with copper sulfate;
before planting, insecticidal preparations are introduced into the soil;
the site must be regularly cleaned, and plant residues must be destroyed.

Compliance with the rules of agricultural technology is the key to the health of the entire garden.Moderate watering, proper soil selection, and regular feeding are a must when growing hydrangeas.

If you adhere to the growing conditions and observe preventive measures, a beautiful garden hydrangea will bloom on your site; diseases and pests, the photos of which we have selected, are not so scary if you take the necessary measures in a timely manner, start treatment, and stop the spread.

Causes of the disease

The widespread opinion that the plant lacks iron in chlorosis is not entirely correct. Iron chlorosis is the most common, but chlorosis can also be caused by a lack of other trace elements.

If the yellowing of the leaves begins on top of the shoots, this indicates a lack of iron in the soil or the inability of the apple tree to assimilate its elements. The latter can occur on calcareous soils.
Faded leaves at the bottom of the branches allow you to determine the lack of nitrogen.
The same symptoms can appear in young apple trees with a lack of potassium, but they appear on the central part of the shoots.
A clear yellowing of the leaves between the veins and the presence of dark spots and necrotic border indicate a lack of magnesium and manganese. This is the so-called spotted chlorosis. Most often, this form of the disease is accompanied by an excess of lime. The leaves begin to brighten at the base of the shoot, an additional symptom is a clear decrease in fruit formation. See an example of how apple chlorosis is expressed in the photo:
General yellowing of the crown can occur due to a lack of sulfur and oxygen. This happens when apple trees are planted on heavy soils, in which air permeability in the root zone is impaired. And also when the groundwater is too close to the roots of the tree.

It is important to remember that it will be possible to determine the cause of chlorosis only at an early stage of the disease. In the process of development, leaves are damaged along the entire length of the shoots.

In this case, there is a danger of masking one type of chlorosis with another. All of these reasons are not viral in nature.

Important! If the chlorosis of the apple tree is non-infectious, the treatment is easily carried out by replenishing the missing trace element.

Viral chlorosis, which often affects cherries, plums and raspberries, rarely affects apple trees.