Disease and pest control
Turkish carnations are sturdy plants, but in damp areas they are affected by fungal diseases, which can not only deprive plants of decorativeness, but also completely destroy the plantings.
Fusarium wilting is a real scourge of ornamental plants. Especially detrimental is the disease manifests itself in a cool rainy spring on the stems and leaves in the form of brown depressed spots with a pinkish-brown bloom, which then rot out and fall out, and in advanced cases the plants die.
Turkish carnations are most susceptible to Fusarium during the seedling or rooting stage of cuttings. To prevent disease, cuttings and soil are sprinkled with foundationol powder before planting. At the first signs of the disease, severely affected plants, stems and leaves are removed, and the plantings are treated with a solution of copper oxychloride or 0.1% suspension of foundationol.
Gray rot, unlike fusarium, more often affects plants in a damp and warm environment of greenhouses, manifesting itself in the form of gray fly mold, and the diseased areas darken and die off. Cope with fungal infection by airing and spraying with one of the above fungicides
Before processing, it is important to carefully remove all rotten parts of the plants.
Rust is a scattering of small reddish-brown tubercles on the leaves, under the surface of which spores of one of the most dangerous diseases develop. When the first signs of rust are observed, the infected bushes are destroyed.
In early summer, the tender shoots and peduncles of the Turkish carnation are attacked by aphids, which can quickly deplete the plant and make it more susceptible to fungal infections. To destroy aphids, they are treated with insecticides Arrivo, Decis, Intavir or Fitoverm several times with a break of 5-7 days. Effectively and harmlessly spraying with infusions of tops of tomatoes, onions or garlic. The main thing in a successful fight against aphids is repeated regular treatments.
When growing seedlings in greenhouses in hot weather, spider mites can strike plantings, appearing in the form of white grains on the underside of leaves and flying thin cobwebs. Sulfur preparations, pyrethrum preparations, as well as a powerful agent Aldicarb, which are introduced into the soil in the form of granules, are effective in the fight against the parasite. Scared away the mite and processing with infusion of garlic or onions.
Summer Turkish Carnation Care
Fertilizing
Turkish carnation responds well to feeding. So, upon reaching the seedling size of 10 cm, we add the first top dressing to the soil. For this we use 1 tbsp. a spoonful of nitrophoska, which can be replaced with the same volume of Agricola Forward (we dilute the fertilizer in a bucket of water). Before budding, it is time for the second feeding. Here, superphosphate and potassium sulfate are used (both fertilizers are a tablespoon per bucket of water). The last feeding is carried out during flowering. For her, in the same volume of water we dilute a tablespoon of Agricola Forward. The fertilizer consumption is 5 l / sq. m.
Watering
We water the bushes growing in the flower beds twice a week. In dry periods - as the land dries up. A bucket and a half is enough for a square meter of a flower bed with these flowers for watering. With excessive soil moisture, the plant may die from root rot. There is a special rule for watering when caring for this plant. When the soil is moistened, do not direct a stream of water at it. Water as close to the ground as possible.
Additional work
The Turkish carnation is a frost-resistant plant, but, despite this, for the winter we mulch the ground around it with a layer of dry humus or peat (almost 10 cm). We also use spruce branches for shelter.With the onset of spring, we shade the young shoots of the flower from the scorching rays of the sun. A serious danger for this plant is played by a large amount of melting snow, which, by waterlogging the soil, can lead to its decay and death. That is why, after a snowy winter, we remove the snow from the summer cottages and the ridges on which this flower grows. To remove excess moisture, we break small grooves between the plants.
Diseases and pests of cloves
Turkish carnation is susceptible to attack by spider mites, aphids. To destroy them, we use infusion of potato tops. We prepare it from 0.8 kg of dry or 1 kg of green tops. Grind it and fill it with 10 liters of water. We insist this mixture for 36 hours, after which we filter and add 1 tbsp to the infusion. a spoonful of liquid soap, spray the flowers with the resulting solution 2 times a day (morning, evening).
Plantings of Turkish carnations in winter are often damaged by mice. We are fighting with them with a special poison placed near the plants. If possible, in winter we trample and compact the snow around the bushes of this plant.
Landing in open ground
Turkish carnation variety Heimatland (Heimatland)
Turkish carnation is most often propagated by seeds through seedlings, valuable varieties and hybrids are successfully cut or planting material is obtained by dividing the bush.
Seed reproduction
Seeds are sown indoors in April or on ridges in May - June. The soil for sowing should be well warmed up and moderately moist. Considering the two-year growing cycle, a free plot of the garden or cold greenhouses and greenhouses that are empty after growing seedlings of vegetable plants are used for sowing seeds.
For growing seedlings, a mixture of humus, sand, garden soil and high peat is prepared by mixing the components in equal parts. Ready-made commercial neutral mixtures for seedlings of vegetables and flowers are also quite suitable.
When sowing in April, some varieties, for example, Holborn Glory or Gypsy, may bloom as early as August of the first year, but in this case the bushes will be weakened and will not show the desired decorative effect for the next year. For early summer abundant flowering, it is better to grow dianthus in a biennial culture.
Seeds are planted to a depth of 1–1.2 cm and mulched with humus crumbs or dry sand. If the weather is dry, the crops are watered by sprinkling. Strong shoots appear on the 8-10th day, and sometimes even earlier - after 5-7 days, which depends on the quality of the seeds and the temperature of the soil. In autumn, branched bushes are transplanted to a permanent place.
The Turkish carnation works well by sowing directly into the ground without subsequent replanting. In this case, sowing is carried out as indicated above, and then the seedlings are broken through at a distance of 20–25 cm. It is worth considering that in this case, during the first year, the flower bed will look quite modest.
When grown for seed, terry varieties can give heterogeneous seedlings - with non-double flowers or non-standard sizes, with elongated peduncles and stems, or, on the contrary, squat bushes.
To avoid confusion and get plants with typical characteristics of the variety, they use vegetative propagation methods - cuttings and division of bushes.
Cuttings
Cutting the Turkish carnation is not the most common method of propagation, but it is quite simple and allows you to accurately recreate the mother plant. Most often, they resort to cuttings of terry varieties and hybrids, two-colored or with fringed petals.
Cut green cuttings of vegetative shoots in June, in cool weather. The length of the cutting is 5–7 cm, the cut is made obliquely, directly under the internode, and the lower leaves are removed. For better rooting, they are treated with Kornevin: the ends of the cuttings are moistened with water and powdered with dry powder immediately before planting.
For cuttings, greenhouses, greenhouses are used, or they are planted directly into the ground, stretching a film over the plantings and maintaining high air humidity by frequent spraying. The cuttings are planted in light soil, dipping 2-3 cm, and mulched with sand or peat crumb.
Rooting lasts 18–20 days, after which the film is removed and the plantings are cared for in the usual way. In September, young plants are transplanted to a permanent place.
Dividing the bush
By dividing the bush, Turkish carnations are rarely propagated. To do this, in the fall in September - October, the faded bushes are cut to a height of 10-15 cm and divided into sections with two or three shoots and a developed root system.
The resulting cuttings are planted in a permanent place, watered and covered for the winter. The decorativeness of such bushes can be significantly inferior to plants grown by seedlings or cuttings.
Diseases and pests
Garden carnation is not very susceptible to disease, but the occurrence of infection is favored by very high humidity, fluctuations in air temperature, and excess nitrogen. If weeds are not eliminated, they will become objects for the distribution of fungal spores, viral infections, and bacterial rot. Symptoms of a fungal disease: the appearance on the leaves, at first light, later - brown specks with a scarlet border. The plantings are treated with the fungicides Fundazol or Topaz.
Carnation pests - spider mites - cover the lower part of the leaves with a thin net. The invasion of thrips manifests itself as silvery-white spots on the leaves and flower buds. Aphids suck sap from the most delicate parts of plants; they become pale grassy, often covered with mucus. They treat parasites with biological insecticides: Fitoverm, Vertimek. Can be sprayed with solutions of Aktara and Actellik preparations.
Preparing a carnation for planting in the ground
The abundance of flowering directly depends on the degree to which the soil for the planting site is correctly selected. With the correct intake of special substances, the necessary moisture in the earth and suitable lighting, the culture will feel as comfortable as possible.
Landing dates
In open ground, it is possible to sow cloves with seeds in March. At a time when the usual temperature will not go below + 15 ° C. The planting material is sprinkled with earth and moistened. The film is stretched from above. When it gets warmer up to + 18 ° С, it is possible to wait for seedlings.
Choosing a place on the site
In order to grow a carnation, it is necessary to choose a very illuminated place where there is not a very large partial shade in the afternoon. The above will promote long-term flowering. But an extremely shaded room has a depressing effect on the growth of foliage. The formation of flowers does not happen in this case either. Plantings planted in small containers should not be stirred in direct sunlight. There will be a rapid overdrying of the earth. Carnation does not like to be in the vicinity of plantings that prefer high humidity. For this reason, it does not need to be planted in wetlands or near water bodies.
Soil preparation
Land for landing should be neutral or slightly alkaline. It is good if it is loamy, peaty or sandy loam. It is possible to make the earth not so acidic, mix it with slaked lime, dolomite flour or ash. And to simplify - diluted with peat and ordinary sand. For planting in a container, the earth is mixed with perlite and peat.
Selection and preparation of planting material
Garden carnations are supposed to be grown using seedlings. Seed material is advised to sow in late February or early March. Before planting, the seeds are soaked for a day. Pre-prepared boxes and containers are filled with light loamy soil.
Seeds are distributed on top of moistened soil, sprinkled with sand on top. The containers are wrapped with foil in order to fulfill the greenhouse conditions. The pots must be stored in the dark, between + 17 ° C and + 20 ° C.In a week, the first shoots will begin to show. Then the pots are moved to a well-lit place. Sometimes the seedlings are sprayed to humidify the air. After 30 days, the seedlings can be dived into an outdoor greenhouse. Seedlings pinch. This enhances stem growth and root proliferation.
Description of landing methods
For planting a long-term garden carnation on a stable bed, it is necessary to prepare pits. The gap between them should be at least 15-30 cm. The depth is appropriate for a root coma. To create the outer layer of soil looseness and lightness, you need to mix it with sand and compost. The sprout is lowered into a specialized hole, the roots are sprinkled with earth. Then the plantings are watered. The earth is sometimes loosened up.
Types and varieties of garden carnations
All types of carnations are flowers belonging to the carnation family. They are the most common perennials cultivated in floriculture as annuals, biennials and perennials.
More than 25 types of soda carnations are known, but only 5 of them are widespread, which, in turn, have many subspecies and varieties. Depending on the culture, the cultivation of carnations has its own specifics.
Pinnate carnation - a low plant, up to 25-30 cm, single flowers - white, pink, red. Petals obovate, finger-dissected. Shoots form a dense gray-green sod. Blooms in July-August, loves calcareous, loose, warm soils. Its varieties are: iosotis, (height 40 cm), semperflorence (25 cm) with remontant double flowers.
Cloves feathery "Terry carpet", mix. An incredibly ornamental plant: growing, it forms a neat green carpet, over which a large number of fragrant double flowers bloom. It is widely used in the design of rockeries, borders and other flower beds. Grown in seedlings. At an optimum temperature of + 16 ... + 20C, seedlings appear within 7-14 days. Landing is carried out in open ground when the threat of frost return has passed. Prefers light, limed soils, sunny location. Blossoming in June and September. Plant height 30 cm.
Plume carnation (musky) - height 50 cm, is distinguished by multi-colored double flowers with a strong spicy aroma.
Sand carnation is a miniature plant with pinnately-fringed flowers. Her decorative form is "Nostalgia". Numerous white flowers with fringed edges in abundant bloom will adorn mixborders, curbs, rocky slides and supporting walls. Placed in a sunny place with light, permeable, limed soil. The culture is unpretentious. Tolerates transplantation well. Blooms in July-August. Plant height 20-30 cm.
Carnation herbaceous is a low plant (up to 20-25 cm), the leaves are elongated, dark green, sometimes with redness. Has a wide variety of flower colors (red with a dark rim and light dots, dark pink and carmine). Grass blooms from the beginning of June for almost two months. Many varieties and hybrids have been created on the basis of this species.
Moulin Rouge grayish blue carnation, mix. A vibrant blend of deep pink carnations with a delicate scent. Abundant flowering will decorate any flower garden, border or mixborder. At an optimum temperature of + 16 ... + 20 ° C, seedlings appear within 7-14 days. Placed in a sunny place with light, permeable, limed soil. Unpretentious. Blossoming in June and July. Plant height 25 cm.
Dutch carnation is a rare combination of flower beauty, aroma and general unpretentiousness. As a result of long-term hybridization on the basis of this species, large-flowered, double, remontant greenhouse varieties were obtained.
As you can see in the photo, all types of carnations are extremely beautiful and are a real decoration of the garden plot:
Among hybrid carnations, the following varieties are especially popular:
"Breath of Love" is a tall, up to 45 cm perennial, partially blooming in the year of sowing. The flowers are simple, with irregularly colored petals, very narrow at the base and strongly dissected. Has a pleasant smell.
"Spring Beauty" - height up to 30 cm. Fragrant double carnation with pink double flowers.
"White Ladies" - height 25 cm. The flowers of this variety are white, double, with a strongly serrated edge, fragrant. A cup with a brownish border.
"Sam Barlow" - white double flowers with a clearly visible brown calyx. Has a strong odor.
Look at the photo - this variety of perennial carnation is compact, similar to the previous ones, but the petals with almost rectangular short teeth:
Landing in open ground
It is possible to plant seedlings in open ground after mid-May, but if the weather is cool, then it is better to wait for the beginning of June. The gap between the bushes must be left at least 15 centimeters. If you choose a sunny place for planting, then the flowers on the bushes will be brighter, but the flowering time will be reduced, and the bushes themselves will be more compact in size.
The acidity of the soil needs neutral or slightly alkaline, acidic soil should be avoided. You can check the acidity level with litmus test. Wood ash can be added to acidic soil for alkalization.
It is imperative to sow in dry soil, in grooves about a centimeter deep, leave a distance of at least 15-20 centimeters between the grooves. Then the top of the flower bed must be mulched with sawdust or peat. Remove the mulch layer after winter.
It is important to remember that with this method of sowing in the first year, the plant will not bloom, but only bushes with leaves are formed. In the second year, carnation will be able to give flowers and seeds.
For perennial plants, the seeds can not be collected, but the opened boxes can be poured onto the ground to obtain self-seeding.
Diseases and pests of carnation, methods of dealing with them and photos.
Unfortunately, like all plants, cloves are susceptible to disease and pest attacks. The most common diseases of garden cloves:
Caterpillars of scoops attack carnation bushes during the budding period, feeding on leaves and flowers that have not yet blossomed. Mass populations gnaw the plant in just one night. Since the caterpillars go hunting at dusk, at this time they can be destroyed mechanically, but it is better to immediately treat the clove bush with drugs such as "Actellik", "Fitoverm" or Bi-58.
Thrips are a pest that feeds on carnation juices, as a result, all parts of the flower are deformed, covered with a white bloom and lose their decorative effect. If the clove bush is very badly damaged, then you should get rid of it. Less infected specimens must be treated with insecticides, for example, "Arrivo" or "Zolon". Spraying cloves is carried out at intervals of 3-4 times every 5 days.
Gall nematode is a carnation pest that affects the root system of the plant and forms swelling-galls on the roots. As a result, the carnation does not develop well, then the leaves begin to turn yellow and the flowers fall off. Sick bushes must be removed and burned. Since the pest can live in the soil for years, the soil is carefully spilled with boiling water, and then 3-4 times it is treated with Aktara or Rogora solutions.
Rhizoctonia is a disease that causes rotting of the carnation bush at the root collar. As a result, the plant does not receive nutrients and moisture, it turns yellow and dries up. In wet weather, rhizoctonia disease can be determined by finding a brownish felt plaque in the lower part of the stem of a carnation. It is unlikely that an infected plant can be saved, but for prevention, the plants are watered and sprayed with Bordeaux liquid.
Clove phialophorosis is a disease in which the stems of the carnation gradually fade and begin to turn yellow quickly. Individual leaves and shoots may turn reddish.When cut on the stem, streaks and brown rings are clearly visible. Diseased carnation bushes should be removed, the soil should be treated with a solution of potassium permanganate, healthy plants should be sprayed with Topsin for prophylaxis.
Fusarium wilting. Signs of clove disease are yellowing, and in the future, browning and wilting of the leaves of the plant. On the aerial parts of the carnation bush, pinkish convex specks appear - these are fungal spores. The affected cloves must be removed, the remaining plants must be watered with a fungicide such as Fundazol or Topsin-M.
With the onset of cold weather, mice love to feast on the roots of a garden carnation, therefore, if you grow a plant as a perennial, cover it with spruce branches for the winter to avoid damage to the bushes by rodents.
