Breeding secrets
Propagation of hydrangea by cuttings
Hydrangea in the open field reproduces in the ways available to shrubs:
- cuttings;
- layering;
- dividing the bush;
- seeds.
The latter method is rarely used if you need to multiply a large number of copies. In addition, when sown with seeds, hybrid forms do not retain the qualities of the mother plant. Grown seedlings require long-term care and getting an adult specimen is a laborious and time-consuming process.
Cuttings
Vegetative propagation, which allows you to fully copy the qualities of the mother plant
Held in the middle of summer. Step by step, obtaining young seedlings from cuttings looks like this:
- Cut the cuttings of the first year of life 7-10 cm long
- Prepare soil from peat and coarse sand (1: 1)
- The cuttings are buried 1/3 poses at an angle of 45 degrees
- Maintain a distance of 5 centimeters between seedlings
- Sand is poured on top and sphagnum moss is laid
- A microsteam is created from the container, covering it with a film (glass). Spraying to create a humid environment
- Maintain temperature + 16- + 20C
After a month, the cuttings form roots. Seedlings can be transplanted to a school or to a permanent "place of residence".
Getting layering
Scheme of obtaining layering from an adult hydrangea bush
To obtain layering in spring, the lower shoots are bent to the ground and pinned, slightly deepening into the ground. This is enough to start the rooting process. In the spring of next year, using a pruner, the layers are separated from the mother bush and planted for further growth and development.
Dividing the bush
Breeding method - by dividing the bush
If you transplant a large specimen of hydrangea in early spring, then at the same time you can divide the bush. It is dug up and, using a sharp tool (knife, saw), is divided into several parts.
It is important that each of the divisions has 2-3 healthy kidneys and several roots. Places of cuts are treated with wood ash, dried
Then young plants are planted in a pre-selected area.
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Reproduction
In Siberia, as in other Russian regions, hydrangea propagation occurs in two ways - by cuttings and seed
The first is best suited, since growth and development will occur at a better rate, and this is very important for a short and cool Siberian summer.
Propagation by cuttings
Cuttings for a new plant are cut from mature, well-growing bushes. They are cut from the lignified shoots of the previous season. If the procedure is expected in the summer, you can take a green scion. Next comes rooting in the open field. The correct option would be to plant the cutting in a greenhouse before rooting. If there is none, then it can be planted in open ground and covered with a film, which periodically needs to be opened for several minutes to provide air access to the young plant. The first flowers should appear on the plant in two years.
Important! In the first two years after the rooting of cuttings for the winter, they must be transplanted into a pot and taken to the basement to protect them from freezing
Hydrangea cuttings
Growing from seeds
The seed method of growing hydrangeas is much less popular and effective than cuttings. However, it also exists, and in Siberia you can use it.
When choosing seeds, you need to pay attention to their integrity and the absence of stains.If these are not self-collected seeds, then be sure to consult the seller
They should not be frostbitten, painful, or lethargic.
The easiest way is to plant seeds in boxes. This will require a substrate consisting of peat, sand, turf, humus and leafy soil. The resulting mixture is poured into a 15 cm box so that about 3-4 cm remains from the top edge. If the seeds were not previously germinated, then they are simply scattered over the soil. For the germinated, pits are made 1 cm deep, where the seeds are planted. Next, the earth is watered from a watering can or sprayed from a spray bottle and covered with film or glass. The soil is moistened as it dries, and a box is opened for ventilation. The cover is removed when the first shoots appear.
In a similar way, seeds are planted in open ground. This should be done in mid-May, when the frosts are over completely, and the soil warms up.
Note! The seeds of some varieties of hydrangea do not have time to ripen in the Siberian climate, therefore it is preferable to propagate them by cuttings or layering
The main garden types of hydrangea
Despite the variety of forms, this article discusses the species that take root and grow in our latitudes. Hydrangea suffers from intense heat, many species that love partial shade slow down their growth in the sun, and their inflorescences become very shallow, but there are also species that tolerate heat well.
Hydrangeas are divided into two types: small (bear fruit in the middle of the inflorescence) and large (have 4-5-petal calyxes, sterile).
Large-leaved hydrangea
Flowering occurs in July-August. Flowers of ordinary forms are collected in corymbose inflorescences with a diameter of up to 20 cm, flowers of sterile forms are collected in lush spherical inflorescences with a diameter of up to 30 cm. There are white, pink, blue.
Bush up to 2 m tall with large, wide, ovoid leaves. A heat-loving variety, requires shelter in frosty winters, tolerates frosts down to -10 ° C. The most widespread garden form in the world. The original form for potted hydrangeas. When potassium salts and aluminum sulfate are added to the ground, it allows you to get blue and blue inflorescences.
Hydrangea paniculata
Blooms from mid-summer to late autumn. Flowers are collected in dense panicles of pyramidal inflorescences up to 30 cm in length, color from light green to white, at the end of summer changes to dull purple. A shrub from 2 to 5 m in height or a small tree up to 10 m in bloom is covered with large cone-shaped inflorescences. Differs in durability, unpretentiousness (grows in swampy, gas-polluted places), frost resistance.
Hydrangea Bretschneider
Bloom from mid-July to August. The flowers are small, fruiting, collected in wide inflorescences in the form of umbrellas 15 cm in diameter. The middle flowers in the inflorescence fall early, the marginal flowers bloom for a long time. The color at the beginning of flowering is bright white, towards the end of flowering it is purple or reddish. The most winter-hardy variety, drought-resistant. By winter, the shoots will completely numb. It can be propagated by seeds. The bush is compact, with a wide-round decorative crown up to 3 m in height. The shrub has hairy, reddish shoots with bark exfoliation in the form of thin plates. Leaves are dark green in color, ovoid, 12 cm long.
Stalked hydrangea
Shrub vine, attached to the support with air suction cups, reaches up to 25 m in height, in the absence of support it spreads along the ground. Perfectly braids arches, gazebos. The flowers are white-pink, collected in corymbose inflorescences up to 25 cm in diameter, quickly fall off. Abundant flowering is observed in open areas, but also grows well in the shade. Shoots are red-brown with broadly ovate smooth finely toothed edges, dark green leaves.
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Ash hydrangea (gray)
Shrub, reaches a height of 2 m. Used as a hedge. Blooms until late autumn. The flowers are sterile, small, in the form of numerous scutes.Leaves are oval, membranous, dull green.
Hydrangea
A very beautiful shrub with many varieties, bushes up to 3 m tall, with large oval leaves up to 20 cm in length. Flowers are collected in fluffy inflorescences. Medium tolerates winter, often freezes in winter, but recovers in spring and blooms profusely in summer. This form requires strong pruning in April near the root to keep the shrubs in good shape. It has been growing for me for 10 years, blooms until late autumn and is more noticeable in the flower garden than many more elegant and bright flowers.
A lot of flowering hydrangeas, 8 species and more than 20 varieties, can be seen in the garden of the Aivazovskoye health and recreation center, you can see the photos and read more in the article “Hydrangea garden in the Aivazovskoye health center”.
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Reproduction by layering
Hydrangea can be propagated in three ways:
- seeds;
- layering;
- by cuttings.
Hydrangea "Wims Red", propagated by cuttings, develops much more efficiently. Place the parts of the branches remaining after the autumn pruning in water for three days. After that, it is necessary to cut the cuttings from them so that each of them has at least three internodes. Treat the lower cut of the cutting with a growth stimulant and plant it indoors in ordinary pots by 2/3.
As a rule, seedlings are kept indoors until spring. After the air temperature outside becomes stable above zero, the plant can be planted in open ground in a permanent place.
Bend one of the branches of the shrub to the ground and dig in it. You may need to secure it to keep it from straightening with a small stone. Use a small support to support the crown of the branch in an upright position.
It is advisable to use this breeding method in the spring or late summer. The scion will take root the next year. After that, it can be separated from the main plant.
As cuttings, it is better to take those that are cut out during thinning. The lower leaves break off. The prepared shoots are inserted under a slight slope into the ground (after adding coarse grained sand).
A cut plastic bottle or glass jar is put on top. The planting site should be in the shade, and watch out for humidity. For permanent residence, the rooted plant is transplanted after three years.
After this procedure, you need to give it about a year, if the branch is rooted, it can be cut off from the main plant. With proper care, the bush will bloom in the first year of planting. Hydrangea can grow fully in pots and containers, but this requires local drainage. Hydrangea loves humus-rich soil and regular feeding. To strengthen the shoots, you can water with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
Hydrangea can be propagated by seeds, cuttings and layering. The most effective and fastest way is propagation by layering. Dropping layers are carried out for growing young seedlings in early spring. By autumn, the branches that have taken root are cut off from the main bush and planted in the ground.
Hydrangea is not afraid of low temperatures, it survives even at -30 ° C. Despite this, many experienced gardeners recommend covering the roots of young seedlings with peat, fallen tree leaves, and mulch. Mature shrubs do not need additional cover.
Hydrangea reproduces in three ways:
- seeds;
- cuttings;
- layering.
Seeds sprout rather slowly, and full flowering occurs only in the fourth year. Therefore, it is much more effective to use cuttings. The branches remaining after forming are cut into separate knots with two internodes. Then they are immersed in the growth activator solution for 3 days and planted in standard containers. In room conditions, seedlings are kept until warm.
Despite the fact that Weems Red is resistant to cold, it is recommended to create protection.For adult plantings, it will be enough to mulch the root area. Usually rotted compost is spread around. Peat or dry foliage is also suitable for these purposes. The layer should be at least 20–25 cm. In regions with snowy winters, it is necessary to build a small hut made of plastic wrap. In this case, the branches will not break off under the weight of the snow.
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The type of panicle hydrangea Weems Red is appreciated by gardeners in any climatic zone. This is due to a number of indisputable advantages: unpretentious care, long and beautiful flowering, and a unique smell. There are no obvious flaws in this species.
Despite the fact that the breeding process is not difficult, the result is not always obtained.
The graceful bush loves the sunny side, but not direct rays. In the shade, it will bloom very poorly. Poorly tolerates sand. This species is rather difficult to reproduce, despite the simplicity of the procedure. Propagated in two ways - cuttings or layering. The option with layering, like those of roses, the branch is buried in and fixed, it is better to do this in the summer.
Description of the variety
The early sensation panicle hydrangea was accidentally bred by breeders in 1991, and in 2006 the variety would have been officially introduced to the international market under the name Early sensation.
The shrub, covered with dark green leaf blades with teeth, grows up to 2 meters in height. Straight, elongated shoots are colored purple. Inflorescences can form both on last year's branches and on those that have grown only this year. Their length reaches 30 centimeters, and the diameter of one flower in an open state can vary from 3 to 5 centimeters.
Each cone-shaped inflorescence is formed from neat flowers, the color of which changes from cream to pink. By the way, closer to autumn, the main shade will change to purple. Early Sensei is characterized by very good frost resistance. The culture can withstand frosts, reaching -35 degrees, even with a slight freezing, it quickly recovers.
With an increase in the indicator, the petals are covered with unpleasant dots, which then transform into large spots of a gray hue. It is recommended to plant hydrangea on fertile land with neutral or weak acidity. When living in a temperate climate and regular care, the culture can live from 50 to 60 years.
Care rules
Hydrangea "Tardiva" can tolerate drought normally, but you should not allow the soil to dry out significantly. The optimal amount of watering is once a week, while it should be combined with mineral dressings. It is recommended to add about 30 liters of water per 1 m2 at a time. With improper moisture, the plant will poorly form buds, besides, the inflorescences will dry out quite quickly. If it rained in the near future, then the number of irrigations should be reduced.
It is also important to take into account that the first moistening should not allow soil erosion at the plant trunk. Hydrangea needs timely feeding
With the onset of spring, it is recommended to apply nitrogen-containing fertilizers under the bush.
Fertilizer should be applied no more than 1 time per 2 weeks. In August, feeding is stopped to give the shrub time to prepare for pruning. The haircut procedure is carried out after the end of flowering. All wilted flowers and dry shoots are removed, the crown of the bush is given the desired shape. Experts recommend that all thin stems be shortened to 4 buds.
You can cut the plant in the spring, but only before the buds appear on the shoots. During this period, they carry out mainly sanitary cutting, remove frozen or damaged shoots, and also thin out bushes, cutting off excess branches. For mature bushes, which are characterized by a rather weak flowering, you need to carry out anti-aging pruning: the plant is pruned at the root.This procedure predisposes to more rapid formation of new shoots. To achieve a dense and violent flowering, in the first year it is worth cutting off all the inflorescences, these manipulations contribute to the appearance of numerous flowers in the coming season.
It is necessary to loosen the ground carefully, since the roots of the hydrangea are located quite close to the surface of the soil, they can be easily damaged. Improper loosening will result in weakening of the bush, weak flowering and a small amount of foliage.
Although the shrub is frost-hardy, it still needs preparation for winter. To prevent the roots from freezing, humus, dry foliage or needles are spread around the trunk. In areas with a harsh climate, it is necessary to insulate the entire bush. For this you need:
- wrap it with breathable covering material;
- for 25-30 cm from the bush, install a mesh frame around its entire circumference;
- pour dry, fallen leaves into it;
- wrap the filled frame with polyethylene.
Diseases and pests
As already mentioned, this shrub is absolutely unpretentious in terms of leaving. However, in some cases, it can be susceptible to various diseases and pest attacks. This makes the plant weak and greatly affects its appearance.
Sometimes the shrub becomes lethargic and dull, even though it is watered and fertilized on time. One of the reasons may be overheating of the soil at the roots located on top. To avoid this, soil mulching is recommended.
The second nuisance may be yellowing of the leaves with green veins. This is how chlorosis manifests itself, and alkaline soil can be its cause. In this situation, copper sulfate should be used, with the help of which the soil is acidified.
Very often, the cause of the disease is the wrong growing conditions, for example, too strong a shadow or neglect of the plant.
Gray rot is a fungus and appears as dark spots on the bush that grow rather quickly. Powdery mildew is expressed by a gray bloom on the leaves, which becomes more and more, which often leads to the death of the plant. White rot attacks the roots and prevents hydrangeas from getting adequate nutrition. Tracheomycosis also begins at the roots.
These diseases respond well to treatment if started on time. It is necessary to treat the plant with fungicides.
In addition, pests can attack the plant. One of the most common is the spider mite. It manifests itself as a cobweb enveloping stems and flowers. The foliage over time begins to dry out and fall off.
In addition, snails, aphids, bedbugs and pennies can spoil the plant. These insects suck the juice from the hydrangea, which can lead to its death. Nematodes cause significant damage to the root system. To control parasites, you should use chemicals sold in specialty stores. Sometimes folk methods come to the rescue.
For varieties of panicle hydrangea, see below.
What is it?
Hydrangea "Unique" is one of the most beautiful varieties of panicle hydrangea and is characterized by elongated shoots topped with white caps of airy flowers. This variety is considered the largest among other plants of this genus, which is why it is most often chosen for landscaping areas. The undoubted advantage of the variety is the possibility of planting it both in complex ensembles and in single compositions. In both cases, the bush looks very bright and catchy, often playing the role of a central element.
Unique owes its appearance to a couple of botanists de Balières from Antwerp, Belgium. It was through their efforts that a new variety was bred and presented to society, which quickly gained popularity among gardeners. In 1993, 43 years after its inception, the hybrid was honored with the award of the Royal Society of Gardeners, the Award of Garden Merit.
Hydrangea "Unique" is a spreading deciduous shrub that is able to quickly grow and capture the surrounding area. This is due to the intensive growth of the root system, consisting of a huge number of thin branched roots. The height of an adult bush is 1.5-2 m, and its diameter reaches 3-5 m, which makes it possible to use it to create hedges.
The bush itself consists of strong, not too thick, erect branches with an easily peeled brown-brown bark. On young branches, pubescence is present, which disappears over time.
The foliage on the branches is opposite or whorled, the leaf plates have an ovoid or elliptical shape and are serrated along the edges. Their length is 15 cm, width - 8 cm. During the year the bush grows by 20 cm, which makes "Unique" one of the fast-growing varieties.
The cone-shaped inflorescences reach a length of 25 cm and consist of small, 4-petal flowers that do not bear fruit. Inflorescences are located at the ends of long shoots and reach a diameter of 25 cm.
