Reproduction of hydrangea Summer Love
All cultivated varieties of hydrangeas multiply easily, so there will never be a shortage of planting material after the very first bush appears on the site.
Propagation by cuttings
The best time to harvest cuttings is spring and summer. Before forcing the buds, the bushes are pruned to give them an attractive shape. Cut shoots are suitable for planting material.
Hydrangea cuttings
For reproduction, take apical shoots with 2-3 pairs of leaves and make a cut at an angle of 45 °. The bottom pair is removed, and the remaining one is shortened, leaving half of the sheet plate. This is done to reduce the area of evaporation of moisture. The tip is also carefully cut to stop its growth. To accelerate the formation of roots, the cutting is immersed in an epin solution. Further, the rooting method is chosen: in soil or in water.
For rooting in soil:
- Take a container and fill it with soil with a pH = 5.0 reaction, to which some clean river sand is added for looseness.
- The cuttings are buried in the soil to the level of the cut leaf pair.
- Cover with a clear plastic or glass cover to create a greenhouse effect.
- The optimum germination temperature for Summer Love panicle hydrangea is 18-25 ° C.
- In 3-4 weeks, numerous roots should grow, and new leaves hatch from the remaining buds.
- Successfully rooted cuttings are planted in separate pots and grown until next spring.
Important! For panicle hydrangea, only rooting of green, not lignified cuttings is suitable. Rooting in water takes about two weeks
Cuttings are harvested in the same way. If the roots have grown successfully, then the plant is planted in a pot and placed on the eastern windowsill, where it is looked after until next spring.
Rooting in water takes about two weeks. Cuttings are harvested in the same way. If the roots have grown successfully, then the plant is planted in a pot and placed on the eastern windowsill, where it is looked after until next spring.
Note! By November, the seedling will have shed its foliage. Then he should lower the temperature of the content to 10 ° C, reduce watering
You need to return to warmth in March.
Growing from cuttings
The event is held in the spring before bud break on the bush. The lower lateral shoots are bent to the ground and buried to a depth of 2 cm. It is best to secure the layering with a wire hairpin.
Propagation of hydrangea by layering
Watering the bush is carried out every day to keep the soil moist. If rooting is successful, then by the end of summer, young shoots will appear on the buried shoot. As soon as it grows 20-30 cm, a new bush is spud. In October, it is dug up and transplanted to a permanent place.
Dividing the bush
This method is also good for spring. In March, before bud break, the bush is dug out, trying to extract as many roots as possible. Then it is divided into several parts, trying to injure him as little as possible. Then each part is planted in a new place. The technique is also suitable for rejuvenating old bushes.
Hydrangea Selection: variety care
Care for the selection hydrangea consists of watering, fertilizing, sanitary and formative pruning, as well as protection from winter frosts.
Moisture-loving hydrangea is sensitive to watering - it is necessary to regularly moisten the soil in the area with bushes, while avoiding stagnant moisture.
Fertilization
Fertilizers are applied several times during the season: their composition is dictated by the plant's needs for certain nutrients at different stages of its development.
The first top dressing occurs in the spring and involves saturation of the soil with nitrogen, which is necessary to build up the green mass of hydrangea bushes. For these purposes, solutions based on urea or potassium sulfate are suitable. To prepare them, it is enough to dilute only 1 tablespoon of the active substance in a 10 liter container with water. Slurry-based feeding is also effective, which should be diluted with water in a ratio of 1 to 10.
During the period of bud formation, it is recommended to use mineral complexes: solutions are prepared at the rate of 1 tablespoon of the drug per bucket of water.
At the moment when the flowers of the hydrangea are just beginning to open, stimulants of the flowering process can be used.
Autumn feeding is aimed at preparing hydrangea bushes for wintering. For this purpose, potassium-phosphorus mixtures based on superphosphate or potassium sulfate are suitable. Only 1 tablespoon of the mixture is enough for 10 liters of water.
Pruning procedure
Pruning plays an important role in maintaining the attractive appearance of hydrangea bushes. With its help, it is possible not only to give them a shape, but also to extend the flowering period, as well as to strengthen new shoots. The first pruning is of a sanitary nature and is carried out in the spring before the movement of juices begins in the tissues of the plant. During this procedure, all dry, frozen, broken shoots are cut, the crown is also thinned out. In this case, only old shoots can be shortened, since inflorescences will form on last year's branches, so it is not recommended to touch them.
Autumn pruning contributes to the formation of the crown of the bush, as well as its relief on the eve of winter - too thick branches will trap snow, which can damage the shoots with its weight. The hydrangea bush painlessly tolerates the shortening of branches to a length of 3 to 5 buds. Old bushes can be cut more radically, removing the shoots almost completely - it is enough to leave 3-4 eyes.
Shelter for the winter
The panicle hydrangea Selection is considered to be a fairly resistant to winter frost variety: in regions with a mild and temperate climate, the bushes of this variety can overwinter without shelter. However, where winters are long and harsh, it is advisable to take care of a protective layer of mulch. In this capacity, you can use dry grass, spruce branches, straw, fallen leaves. Mulching will protect the root system of the hydrangea bush from freezing.
Hydrangea paniculata Unique: variety care
Panicle hydrangea Unique: photo of the variety
The variety of panicle hydrangea Unique is not picky about care. The whole process is pretty simple and doesn't take a lot of time.
Young plants should be watered at least once every 7 days, so that their adaptation to new conditions is better and faster. Then they can be watered once every 21 days with plenty of water. In case of extreme heat, it is necessary to spray the leaves with warm water. For irrigation and spraying, rain or settled water is used.
Loosening is carried out twice a season, very carefully so as not to damage the root system located very close to the surface. In order to preserve moisture in the soil as long as possible, reduce the growth of weeds and give the plant additional nutrition, after watering, it is necessary to mulch it with peat or needles.
Top dressing is carried out three times a season. First time in early spring, before buds begin to form. Nitrogen-based fertilizers work well here. It promotes the growth of green mass. The second is carried out before flowering using fertilizers with potassium and phosphorus. The same fertilizers are applied during the third feeding, which is carried out in the fall.
To protect plants from root rot, it is necessary to water them with a light solution of manganese once a season. The base of the bush is watered with it.
Pruning is carried out in early spring, before vegetative growth begins, and the climate in the growing region must also be taken into account.We must wait until the threat of frost completely disappears. However, postponing this procedure for a long time is also dangerous, as it can negatively affect flowering.
In the spring, all frozen twigs, damaged or thickening shoots are removed from the plant. The shoots on which the flower brushes of the previous year are located must be cut to the last healthy bud, new ones are shortened by 1/3, weak, malformed and thickening ones are cut off to the very base.
If rejuvenating pruning is carried out, then all branches are cut at the root, leaving only the stump.
During autumn pruning, all flower stalks must be removed, as they will break branches in winter, which will be covered with snow anyway.
Since this variety is highly resistant to frost, it will be quite easy to prepare it for the winter period. If the plant is planted in the southern regions, then it is enough just to huddle the bush near the base. If the middle strip is, then a layer of mulch of 12 centimeters should be applied around the trunk. For this, peat, needles and fallen dry leaves are suitable. If Unic grows in the northern regions of the country, then you need to gently tilt the branches to the ground, fix them and cover them with insulation made of breathable materials.
Cutting panicle hydrangea in autumn
In the autumn, woody cuttings are also used to propagate panicle hydrangea - those that many simply put in compost when pruning the bushes.
The optimal time for autumn cuttings panicle hydrangea - second half of September.
There should be at least three knots on the cuttings you choose to propagate. The lower cut is made under the first, node, perpendicular to the axis of the cutting. Leaves, if they have not fallen yet, are cut with scissors. The upper cut is made about 2 cm from the third node. The lower leaves must be completely removed, leaving only the petioles. And the uppermost ones should be shortened by half.
Experts recommend using clay pots for autumn propagation of panicle hydrangea - they are good for air and evaporate excess moisture. Drainage material is poured onto the bottom of the pot with a layer of 3-5 cm. The soil prepared in advance is poured on top.
You can use the traditional sand and peat substrate mentioned above. But some gardeners prepare such a mixture for the autumn breeding of paniculate hydrangeas: they take in equal proportions the soil from the garden, coniferous waste from the forest and a 5-7-centimeter layer of soil under it, as well as river sand, and all this is fertilized a little with humus.
As in previous cases, before planting, the cuttings are treated with a root stimulator. They are planted in a substrate at an angle of 60-70 degrees to a depth of 3-4 cm.
In order to prevent the leaves from drying out, the cuttings are covered with polyethylene, glass jars or plastic containers.
The most important thing during this period is to take care in advance of a comfortable temperature for the plant and additional lighting, because young hydrangeas will grow in winter. Perhaps this will be the main condition for your success in propagation of panicle hydrangea in autumn.
Cuttings covered with jars need watering at least twice a week. When watering, the banks are not removed. If you decide not to use a jar for your plant, then you will have to maintain a comfortable humidity for it with a spray bottle and spray the seedling at least twice a day.
You can cover the plant with a plastic bag, which is periodically opened to ventilate the seedlings.
The rooting process of cuttings takes 25-30 days. The result of your work on cuttings can be judged by the swollen upper buds, as well as the leaves that will appear soon. You do not need to remove the jar (or polyethylene) until you see all of the above and make sure that the stalk has taken root.
The jar is removed after the first leaves appear.Now your task is to regularly water the seedlings and spray the leaves twice a week until it is time to transplant the panicle hydrangea into the open ground. Keep a close eye on the room temperature and avoid changes: even a difference of 2 ° C can destroy new plants that are still too weak to protect themselves from external influences.
When spring has come, the hydrangea, which has already managed to take root, is planted in a specially prepared place where it has to "grow", or in a garden bed provided for it.
As a rule, plants that are planned to be transplanted into open ground are pre-"hardened". For this purpose, containers with seedlings are left outside for an hour. Subsequently, the time interval is increased. Young shoots will be ready for planting in the garden in a week.
The panicle hydrangea is the real queen of the garden. But, despite the royal appearance, she is distinguished by good characters and does not give gardeners any special problems. Cutting is an easy and affordable way to propagate paniculate hydrangea. Let it decorate your garden for as long as possible!
Planting panicle hydrangea
Saplings have been bought, a suitable place has been chosen. Now you need to proceed directly to planting the plant. To do this, you need to know the basic rules for planting panicle hydrangea:
- Creation of planting holes. Their size is determined by the varietal characteristics of the bush. As a rule, a hole 50x50 and 40-50 cm deep is quite suitable. If it is assumed that your chosen hydrangea variety will grow up to 2.5 meters, then leave the same distance between the holes.
Dig holes
- Preparation of pits. There is no need to rush to plant the cutting immediately.
After the hole has been dug, pour 3 buckets of water into it and wait a day for the earth to soak
- Filling the pits. Immediately before planting, pour a nutrient mixture of peat, humus and sand into the hole.
- Fertilizing the substrate. Add superphosphate (65 g), urea (25 g), potassium sulfate (25 g) to the soil composition (per hole) - depending on the recommendations for a particular variety.
Do not forget to mix the resulting soil thoroughly.
- Planting the cuttings. Place the seedling in a dug and fertilized hole, straighten the roots a little if the seedling is without an earthen clod, and dig in with soil.
Dig in an established seedling
- Watering and mulching. Water the seedling liberally with water and leave for a while. The earth will settle, after which you can mulch the space around the bush.
Do not forget to water the planted stalk
Botanical description of hydrangea Magic Candle
This botanical species belongs to the Hortensia family. In its natural environment, it grows in China, Japan and Sakhalin. Favorite places - edges, rare deciduous forests. The shrub of the Magical Candle variety (hydrangea paniculata Magical Candle) is a drooping perennial.
Panicle hydrangea
Hydrangea Magic Candle is a tall shrub. Height reaches 2 m. The bush is very dense, thanks to the large number of strong stems and abundant foliage. Moreover, it is quite compact.
The leaf blade of the culture is dark green, oval-pointed and with jagged edges. The inflorescences consist of a large number of small flowers. The size of the bud does not exceed 2.5 mm in diameter. The flowers are wonderful honey plants.
The series also contains the following varieties of panicle hydrangea:
- Magic Himalaya;
- Magic Moonlight;
- Magic Pinkerbell;
- Magic SummerSnow;
- Magic Sweet Summer;
- Magic Starlight;
- Magic Fire (Fire).
In the description of hydrangea Magical Candle, inflorescences occupy a special place. Tight panicles are 30 cm or more. At the bud phase, the candle is pearl-cream, opening up, each bud acquires a pale pink hue. By the end of flowering, the inflorescences blaze with a dense scarlet color.
Hydrangea Magical Candle achieves optimal decorative effect on fertile, moist, loose soil.Feels great in an open sunny area and in partial shade. The cold endures calmly. The stems of the current year are also quickly recovering
This is very important, since inflorescences are formed on them.
Important! In order not to harm the flower buds, the hydrangea should be cut at the very beginning of the growing season.
Magic Candle belongs to densely leafy shrubs and needs timely formative pruning. The compact crown of an ornamental flowering garden shrub is prone to thickening, which often creates favorable conditions for flower pests.
Radical pruning is carried out until the buds swell. Damaged, dry, weak branches must be completely removed.
The remaining shoots are shortened by one third, leaving at least five to six developed buds. It is important to remove all, without exception, branches growing inside the crown of the bush
A well-ventilated, sun-accessible aerial part is the key to the harmonious development of the plant and high resistance against garden pests and infections. Candlesticks that have completed their flowering should be removed throughout the summer. It is noteworthy that dry inflorescences have high decorative qualities. Florists often use them when drawing up bouquets of dried flowers.
Experienced gardeners use the remaining branches after pruning to propagate hydrangeas. Lignified parts of the shoots, containing at least three to four buds, root very quickly in water or sandy-peat substrate. Flowering occurs in the second or third year.
Hydrangeas should be prepared to enter the resting phase correctly. Shrubs stop feeding with the onset of the first night frosts or the end of flowering. Watering is gradually reduced so as not to provoke the growth of new young shoots. Experienced gardeners remove two-thirds of the green foliage so that the plant is more efficiently prepared for wintering.
It is recommended to insulate one-two-year-old seedlings that have not yet managed to form a powerful root system. The main measures for the insulation of young bushes are aimed at preserving the roots. A mound of pine needles, crushed tree bark, fallen leaves or sawdust are poured around the plant.
The reasons for the lack of flowering in some species and varieties
In addition to the fact that the hydrangea may simply stop growing, some gardeners are faced with the fact that there are no flowers on the shrub. This may mean that the plant is low in nutrients, a lot of sun, or the buds were frostbitten in winter. In addition, an incorrect transplant can also lead to sad consequences.
Adaptation after disembarkation
If a seedling was planted in the spring, then in the first year it may not decorate the garden with its flowering. This is due to the fact that the plant takes some time to adapt. Even if all the activities are carried out correctly, all the roots are preserved, watering is carried out according to all the rules, the shrubs are fertilized according to the norms, this does not mean that flowers will necessarily appear in the first year of life. You should wait a little until next year, and the hydrangea will certainly delight you with its unusual and beautiful flowers.
Unsuccessful seedling planting site
Hydrangea really does not like direct sunlight, which means that it should be planted in partial shade or even in the shade. Best of all, when the bush is illuminated by the sun early in the morning, the rest of the day is in a shaded place, then it will grow more actively. As a last resort, you can make a canopy that will cast a shadow in the hottest time. Then there will be no question why is hydrangea slow growing. If the shrub is in the shade all the time, then this can also cause the lack of flowers, therefore the place for the plant should be chosen especially carefully.
Important! The composition of the soil is very important for the formation of inflorescences. If the acidity is below 6%, the shrub will not bloom
In order for the acidity to meet the requirements of the hydrangea, it is enough to add 500 g of Bordeaux liquid to 10 liters of water and water the bush.
Frostbite of the kidneys in winter
Depending on the type of hydrangea, it tolerates frost better or worse. For example, paniculata is considered the most frost-resistant, therefore it can most often be seen on personal plots. Arboreal and large-leaved are not as well resistant to frost and will require better shelter.
Attention! Regardless of the variety, it is better to mulch the trunk circle for the winter with humus or peat. If the buds are damaged by frost, then the hydrangea may not bloom in the spring, therefore, the insulation should be approached more carefully, especially when growing delicate plant varieties
It is somewhat more difficult to identify the reason why the paniculate hydrangea variety does not grow.
If the buds are damaged by frost, then the hydrangea may not bloom in the spring, therefore, the insulation should be approached more carefully, especially when growing delicate varieties of the plant. It is somewhat more difficult to identify the reason why the paniculate hydrangea variety does not grow.
Lack or excess of moisture
If you don't water it properly, the hydrangea may also fail to bloom. Severe drying out of the soil will lead to unformed inflorescences, excess moisture - to plant disease and lack of flowers.
The result of improper care
In this case, the water must be rain or settled. With its high rigidity, you can also encounter problems with the growth and flowering of hydrangeas. The liquid should not contain excess lime, it is better if these suspensions settle to the bottom of the vessel before watering. To do this, fill a large container with water and wait a couple of days. Then you can water.
With proper care and disease control, the plant will delight every year with its lush flowering and unusual flowers. It is enough to regularly inspect and take measures if necessary, then it will be possible to grow a beautiful and large bush.
Care
After planting a young hydrangea, you need to provide constant and proper care.
So that the ornamental shrub does not undergo specific diseases, it actively grows and endows you with huge varietal inflorescences, you will need to monitor the moisture content of the soil, feed the garden beauty according to the schedule and carry out rejuvenating pruning every year.
Top dressing
Feeding hydrangeas consists of several stages. The composition of fertilizers directly depends on the growing season of the shrub:
- At the beginning of the season, hydrangea needs a standard NPK complex for all plants. For active growth of shoots, you can additionally fertilize with a solution of urea and potassium sulfate (1 tablespoon per 10 liters, consumption - 5 liters per bush).
- In June, when inflorescences are actively forming on "Mega Mindi", potassium and phosphorus will be useful for ornamental shrubs. For feeding during this period, a solution of superphosphate or any other complex containing these microelements is used.
- During the decorative period, abundantly flowering shrubs require constant support. Experienced gardeners recommend three times a summer to shed the near-stem circle of hydrangea with a solution of "Kemira flower". In this composition, the manufacturer included an ideal complex that will help the garden beauty withstand a difficult marathon.
- At the end of the season, panicle hydrangea should be helped to prepare for wintering. For this purpose, potassium sulfate and superphosphate are traditionally used (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water).
I will like hydrangeas and folk recipes - she very responsively reacts to the spilling of the near-trunk circle with kefir and milk whey. Spraying a slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate will also be useful to the bush.
Watering
It is advisable to water the moisture-loving hydrangea strictly according to the indications: she does not like not only dry soil, but also excessively moist soil. The best option is to add 7-10 liters of water to the root circle once a week, and in hot weather - twice a week.
To preserve moisture, it is recommended to mulch the trunk circle, it is good if for this you use materials that slightly acidify the soil - fresh sawdust, needles or pine bark.
Pruning
Caring for paniculate hydrangea consists in double pruning. In the fall, before frosts, it is necessary to remove all inflorescences, this measure will not only facilitate your spring work on the site, but also "free up" space on the shrub for new flowering. If last year's shoots with cones were not removed, the peduncle will not appear in this place this season.
In spring, panicle hydrangea needs rejuvenating pruning. All shoots of the last year must be cut off by about 2/3, leaving 4 pairs of buds from the branches. Annual rejuvenation manipulations will stimulate the growth of the shrub, which will make its crown lush.
Cut branches can be successfully cut in water, and young plants can be planted the next year, donated to neighbors or sold on the market.
You will learn about exactly how the luxurious inflorescences of the Mega Mindy variety look from the video of an experienced gardener:
Pest and disease control
Hydrangeas are rarely attacked by pests; only a leaf cutter can encroach on young leaves. Treatment of the shrub with a solution of laundry soap or any available insecticide will help to save from it.
Much more dangerous for a shrub is the defeat of fungal diseases. This usually occurs against the background of improper care and excessive soil moisture. The first signals of defeat are leaflets changing their color, as well as the appearance of dark spots on them.
It is interesting: serrata hydrangea: description, planting and care